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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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my guess is that the zombie woof at jtree hasnt been soloed yet, summer, winter or whatever. similar height and angle and difficulty. but that's about it. zw at squamish is a real crack. the jtree one looks like a real crack, but isnt.
tx for the link
that move getting established over the roof looks sketchier than i would've imagined.
i didn't get that far myself.
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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I'm twice as shaky and twice as slow getting over the Nutcracker mantle.
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Walking it! BUMP
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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Soloing for the camera... it just doesn't get lamer than that.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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That was really well done - walked under that thing many times, as well as the rain-shelter speculations after getting weathered off the closer easy routes..
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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thanks for posting the link,
great video, well done...
always inspirational to see what people do with their climbing, and especially how far they push it
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I aided it once, and felt quite proud.
Now I feel like a wienie.
Sigh.
(That's a remarkably well-filmed account. Much enjoyed.)
Edit: That's kind, E, except that the whole thing is A1-....it would be A0 if not for the moss...
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Don't feel like a weenie! The ground-fall potential at every aid move would be completely fukking gripping! That was part of our weather-covered perceptions...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Theres a real good A3 that comes in via seams from way on the left and cuts thru Zombie at right angles...
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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"Solo" I was thinking a route but that was a highball boulder. Cool but looked like bouldering, talked more than climbed. Still cool.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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oh Tami,
Perry posts as Chief
the avatar The Chief is someone else entirely...
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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Bouldered higher "routes" at the Buttermilks just bouldering at V4.....bouldering.........................................not the difficulty but the length that counts(please insert "that's what she said joke" here).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Zomby Woof, as apparently it ought to be spelt, came on the radar in 1978, soon after climbers started going to the Little Smoke Bluffs. It seemed like something interesting to try, but equipment at the time wasn't up to it. Not a good crack for pitons, and BC (before cams). We all owe Daryl thanks for aiding across the roof, fixing a nut every metre or so, so that it could be protected and those who wished could flail. I don't remember when the nuts were finally removed, but they were REALLY fixed. The crux at the lip stopped everyone until the early 1980s, and IIRC Peter freed it in 1982, but not onsight. Not sure when the first true onsight ascent was.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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Apparently, this video was the second time Will soloed it. The first time, he just did it for the sake of doing it, then I guess thought it would make a good addition to the Mountain Festival.
I hope to at least free it with a rope at some point. Good on Will. He does a great job of describing soloing.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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I've aided that woof on two rainy Squamish days, and one certainly wouldn't want to deck coming out of there. It's not a splitter by any means... Odd sizes, constrictions, flakes and such. Felt all the jams last time around, as a friend wanted beta for TRing it afterwards and it's a pretty stellar send WITH a rope. Getting established over the lip seemed like the crux to me, and my partner who got more intimate with it.
There's one bomber hand down low, a little pocket just up to the left, and flared fingery stuff just up from there before moving left to easier ground. Not all that great, really.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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Will Stanhope is one of the climbers that repeated Southern Belle, right?
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Yes.
He was working on the prophet with Sonny Trotter last fall, too.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:55am PT
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"wanktastic young punk"
you really nailed it, Khanom. That's Will to a "T." Absolutely a wanktastic young punk. TOTALLY. Man, you are SOOOO right. What a bastard! Man, that Will Stanhope. A total wanker. AND a punk. F*#k that guy.
But seriously...like Brian, I saw the title and thought, "holy shit! who the f*#k solos "Zombie Woof!" Although Honnold will probably show up in JT in the winter and get bored and just solo it for a pre-breakfast warm-up. Who knows...
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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If I recall correctly the only way off of the JT Zombie Woof formation is a simul rap or downclimbing .11 or so?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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I meant only that the Zombie crack is irregular, and so placing reliable upside down pins in it might have been a challenge even for Daryl, who knew more than any of us about placing pins. Which may help explain why the master nailer used nuts instead, plus that the crack offered better placements even for 1978 era nuts - although admittedly Daryl may have tapped one or two of them!
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