The enigma that was the Dolt

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Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

May 17, 2012 - 01:26am PT

OK, how are you getting from the airport to the Valley? Rental? Yosemite Area Rapid Transit System? (Efficient, economical buses from train and bus stations and airport, right to the Valley - 200 m from Camp 4.) If you need a ride, there may be possibilities, depending on day and time. Lots of people come up from Modesto and Merced areas, and Sacramento.

It should be possible to arrange for someone to meet you in the Valley, if needed, and show you around.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

May 17, 2012 - 10:23am PT

Lila could likely use some beta on driving a rental car to the Valley and what to do with it.

Hopefully the word is out to those that knew Dolt, and they will make a special effort to be there.

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 07:07pm PT

PR: What to do with the car? Shoot...I was planning to use it to keep the bears at bay... (kidding, of course). Appreciate your thoughtful message.

lostinshanghai

Social climber

someplace

May 17, 2012 - 09:09pm PT

LilaBiene:

Photo of some your dad’s equipment, in the back with the red box is plated key-hole hanger he invented,

A better photo of it is here:

Can’t recall when but your dad shared/gave some of his stuff to me: first row and back row.

As for the key-hole hanger plated ones; can use it for key chain or make it into a necklace with beaded or other ornament. Earring?

Just require shipping and handling: $1,000.00 US funds, check, credit card or Pay Pal account.

Lostinshanghai

lostinshanghai

Social climber

someplace

May 17, 2012 - 09:17pm PT

Just teasing since I have a few more would be an honour for me to give it to you in person at Facelift. So look for an e-mail from me and will figure out details.

Then again still a few months away and assuming I will be here in the US, my schedule prior to Facelift might put me somewhere else, if that is the case will mail it. But still would be nice to meet you, your dad was pretty cool.

Since I am brain-dead or close to it, “memory” since been so long ago can’t remember what we talked about just know he was a fun guy and had some nice conversations together.

Lostinshanghai

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

May 17, 2012 - 10:01pm PT

Lila, I never knew a single thing about my birth parents till I was 35 and the process was indescribably strange for me, but fascinating. I hope your expedition is a fun one. You look like a generous soul.

JL

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 10:50pm PT

lostinshanghai: Hey, wow, those are some beautiful pictures, and thank you for sharing your memories. Each recollection gives me something to "hold" in my heart, and to pass along to my daughter. I know so little, but every day I learn something more. It's really wonderful. Hope to see you at the Face Lift!

Largo: I think you're description is spot on. At times I feel like a moth flitting around a light bulb -- irresistibly drawn in, but unable to land.

MAD BOLTER

Trad climber

CARLSBAD,NM

May 18, 2012 - 03:27pm PT

LILA: I USED TO REFER TO MYSELF AS THE "REBOLTING DOLTER" CONSIDERING THAT i USED THE CHROME-PLATED DOLT HANGERS WHEN RE-SETTING ANCHORS. BILL DOLT MENTIONED TO ME ABOUT MAKING THE NOSE RAPPEL ROUTE AS A DESCENT-ESCAPE PATH AFTER I TOLD HIM OF MY FIRST RAP OF THE NOSE SEPT 1969. I DID USE MOSTLY THE DOLT HANGERS ON THAT ROUTE, BUT THEY HAVE BEEN REPLACED WITH MODERN STAINLESS HANGERS BYVARIOUS OTHER CLIMBERS. I HAVE ONE OF THE 3/8" WHITE COLUMBIA NYLON ROPES HE GAVE ME TO DO THE ESCAPE ROUTE.
i PLAN TO BE IN YNP AUG15 TO OCT5 +/_ EMAIL TO REACH ME:ZDOLDTT69TR05@DELLCITY.COM THERE ARE MANY MORE THINGS I WOULD LIKE TO SHARE WITH YOU, MY TYPING IS OLD SCHOOL SLOW ETC.. I USE LARGE LETTERS TO SEE BETTER
PS:"I'M NOT SHOUTING"

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2012 - 08:23pm PT

Mad Bolter:

THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR THOUGHTFUL POST, AND I'M REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO MEETING YOU AT THE FACE LIFT.

JUST READ YOUR WRITE-UPS OF THE TWO EL CAP DESCENTS - WOW!

WILL SEND A FOLLOW-UP MESSAGE TO YOUR PRIVATE ADDRESS.

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 09:32pm PT

I wanted to write something yesterday in celebration of it being the first Father's Day on which I knew who my birth father was...I tried, and failed.

Yesterday, I learned that Bill made more than one call that last Christmas Eve. For reasons beyond my own comprehension right now, this crushed me. Reality can do that when it sneaks up on you, I suppose, and I guess I still have a long way to go in accepting things as they are. And that's okay.

But I didn't want another day to go by without thanking the man who gave me life, a self-deprecating (if not strange) sense of humor, "McGuyver-ness", the ability to perceive things others don't, the inability to think inside the box (or sit still -- ha!), a kinesthetic relationship to the world, intensity, creativity and the insatiable desires to solve problems and keep learning every day.

It breaks my heart that you were so sad...but I understand and hope that you are somewhere at peace. For you...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

BooDawg

Social climber

Butterfly Town

Jun 19, 2012 - 01:33am PT

Thanks, Lila, for sharing your thoughts and feelings about this Father's Day.

Thank you, as well, for sharing that video and the lyrics. Perhaps I know you a tad better now.

Looking forward to meeting you in Sept.-Oct.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jun 19, 2012 - 04:07pm PT

Lila,

It seems he wanted to be more than just a biological father, but couldn't manage to transform the situation to make that work.
It's like that line from the poem in "Knights in White Satin" -
"A lonely man cries out for love and has none."
Of course it's going to be sad when you think about a man who had good potential but couldn't reach his dreams.
And of course it left you without a "normal" nuclear family as well, but hopefully your adoptive parents raised you with love and care, and gave you the foundation for a good life.
There are many tragic figures in the past, and we can't go back to help them now.
At least "the Dolt" worked hard and reached for his dreams - he tried hard and made some good stuff.
As for the realities of economics, Chouinard was already established as the provider of "high end" climbing gear, and climbers did not have a lot of spare cash to spend.
Plus he was unlucky on timing - his version of the Lost Arrows came out just before climbers started making the transition to using nuts, so the Doltpegs became outdated too quickly (some were converted to nut tools).
And his nuts missed the big innovation to Stoppers and large light hexes where Chouinard took control of that new market.

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2012 - 10:53pm PT

Hey Clint, I sincerely appreciate your candor, and you've given me many insightful observations that I am still processing on a number of levels. Good stuff. Thank you.

Aloha, BooDawg!

I'm back to my feisty self and am looking forward to cracking open a book on knots, of all things?! Never say never...though it may just be the first "user's manual" I ever actually read. (Counting on a number of them carrying over from spending time on the water, or I'm in real trouble.) I read Ax Nelson's "Climbing the Lost Arrow" on my commute this morning -- so good I may just read it again tomorrow morning. Will send more "Miseries" along this weekend!

Edit: I don't believe Bill's life truly ended in 1971, because I'm still here, and, boy, do I know that I am "my father's daughter"(for better or for worse, and perfectly imperfect). For as long as I can remember, I've felt like there was something that I was meant to do -- I just didn't have the slightest clue where it was coming from. Now I know (where it was coming from, that is). :D

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2012 - 06:20pm PT

Hope y'all will indulge me as I'm trying to work through this...altered state of consciousness. I'm consciously trying not to make sense out of any of it and unconsciously failing miserably. Music having saved my tail during pretty much every other crisis of consciousness in my life thus far, I offer this up to the great Void...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Not to worry; I'm not trying to fix anything. Just riding out the wave...

LilaBiene

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 11:47pm PT

Last one...I promise. Just need to bring the circle back around to something good...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

'Must be somebody up above sayin' come on, baby girl, ya gotta get back up!
Ya gotta hooooooooold oooooooooooon...