Top 20 Tahquitz/Suicide Climbs on Mtn. Project


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Mar 6, 2015 - 10:21am PT
Any update on the conditions here? Temperatures look warm but probably pretty wet? Was considering going up on Saturday to climb something on the South or West face.

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Mar 6, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
There is still some snow on the south side. The north side has a lot of snow, the south side less so (as can be expected) but there is snow on all the ledges. I would give it at least a week for the south side to dry up..The north side will be in total winter mode for a while..

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 6, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
Either way, post up!
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Mar 6, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
I had a list of my top 20
But it was deleted

But let's go back to the OP's top 20 routes

1. White Maiden'ts Walkaway 5.1
2. Angel's Fright 5.5
3. Left Ski Track 5.6
4. Fingertrip 5.7
5. Coffin Nail 5.7+
6. Traitor Horn 5.8
7. Open Book 5.9
8. Flower of High Rank 5.9
9. Whodunit 5.9
10. Consolation 5.9
11. El Camino Real 5.10a
12. Super Pooper 5.10 a/b
13. Sundance 5.10b
14. Etude 5.11a
15. Valhalla 5.11a
16. Vampire 5.11a
17. Insomnia 5.11b
18. Green Arch 5.11c
19. Paisano Overhang 5.12c R
20. The Pirate 5.12d

Like many other locals, we did 19 of the top 20 (but aided the Pirate)
But No. 19 the P.O.???

It has had very few ascents, free or aid.
Why is it on this list?
Is it worthy?

Well some say..
A couple of my fellow Sheep Buggers were in the same boat, all we needed was the P.O. to check off the top 20.

It started off with a PM from the Driver, he was going to pick up the remnants of the crew and head up to Suicide that weekend (last summer).
He pulled up in his van about 10:00am and reassured us we have plenty of time, it's best to wait until late afternoon for shade.

I take stock of my fellow Sheep Buggars in the Van and surprised to see some of my best buggars from the 80s ready to check off our last nemesis, the P.O..
Manxy Dude, Mims, The Schmutzfink, Larry Loads, Moony, and of course the Driver.

The Schmutz is our best hope of getting a rope up the thing, so he casts off with wild abandon and gets out about 4 feet past what we can reach w/out a rope and falls.

Next up, Manxy Dude.

Well in the end, we couldn't do it, it's just too damn hard.

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 6, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
It's 58 degrees right now, at 9:12 pm. Windy, too.

Wednesday's conditions are about to become part of the Fern Valley Water District.

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 6, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
11:19 pm: Windy as f*#k...52 degrees near town.

County Park bouldering should be stellar!

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 7, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
Shit's melted off fast, hasn't it?

Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
Mar 9, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
19 out of 20. Never got on p o but did belay Rick Piggott when he did it. Only 273 ticked.
Jon Clark

Jun 7, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
Chisholm Trail

I spent three days over the last week climbing in Idyllwild (2 @ Suicide and 1 @ Tahquitz). This thread got me fired up and I thought it deserved a bump. Climbed some great routes including Moondance which is likely the best off vertical face pitch I've climbed. Friend sent The Man Who Fell to Earth onsight sans warmup (pretty rad).

I led Chisholm Trail next and was quite surprised at how neglected this pitch seemed. I found vegetation in the crack and plenty of kitty litter on the face. Does this not get done much or will it simply never clean up? The upper flake was pretty stout for 10c. It's pretty fragile and looks like some of it has broken off. Nonetheless it was an enjoyable outing.

Social climber
Jun 7, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
From 14 to 16.5 (aided The Pirate, lulz. The move to the belay was exciting in sneakers after back cleaning for 15 feet)

Social climber
Jun 8, 2015 - 09:01am PT
ummm i wanted to clean on rappell so back cleaned a bit. I'm sure I could've been less lazy and cleaned with jugs but heyyyyyyyyy why do smart stuff?

Jun 8, 2015 - 10:38am PT
Ha! Mr. Clark is too low key to spray about his own achievements but his MP tick list paints a pretty good picture.

What a great day it was. Nice and sunny but a few clouds and light breeze kept it cool. A handful of parties around the Sunshine Wall and Buttress of Cracks. Far from crowded, just a few people out quietly enjoying the perfect conditions. Late in the afternoon, gazing across the valley from the sweet ledge at the top of Pass Time, it was impossible not to be moved at the timeless beauty of the place.
Jon Clark

Jun 8, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
Nice! He mentioned you two were heading up. I wish I was stronger, tons of great routes up there outside my range. Bunch of teases

Not Burchey,

We all wish we were stronger. You've been establishing FAs with Vitaliy so you're plenty strong. You could always have your friend pictured in your avatar lead if you're not feeling up to it. He looks like a crusher.
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