Top 20 Tahquitz/Suicide Climbs on Mtn. Project


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Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 09:50am PT
Sundance is on the list, Randy;...get out the bi-focals......(Iron Cross needs to be on that list, don't it...)....

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:01am PT
14 1/2 of em

All of them to Sundance, all of them up to #11 multiple times.

The Pirate as an aid climb, when it was an aid climb. (70)

Took a bad fall off Etude back when it was an aid climb.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:08am PT
16. May take a little while to bag the rest.

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:22am PT
Haven't done nearly enough, especially since that stuff is only an hour away from me. Only been on the Tahquitz side once, but did the Vampire on that day, so I guess that's a good start. Six days on Suicide, but 3 of those were soley for one route.

8. Flower of High Rank 5.9
13. Sundance 5.10b
14. Etude 5.11a
16. Vampire 5.11a
19. Paisano Overhang 5.12c R

Only 5. Thinking Valhalla in the next couple of weeks.

Funny how what's probably the best 5.10 pitch on either side doesn't even get listed because it's the last pitch of a harder route (Quiet Desperation...rap in from Paisano ledge if you don't want the 11d thin stuff on QD). It's a superb, clean flake lieback, around 5.10-.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 11, 2012 - 11:03am PT
What, no Sword of Damocles?!?

Or has that one fallen off by now...
Plan B

Ice climber
Agua Dulce,CA
Apr 11, 2012 - 11:27am PT
I've done 11 on the list.
I still have to do the Flower, but always seems to have a crowd.

Some other great routes I like are
El Whampo 5.7
Grace Slick .10b
and one of my favorite is West Lark 5.5

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Apr 11, 2012 - 11:39am PT
I've done all but 2, the Green Arch and Paisano Overhang. I did the Pirate on aid so I guess that kind of only counts for 1/2. Randy is right in that routes like Fred and Iron Cross should be on it instead of a couple Todd listed. Maybe if Insomnia wasn't listed twice they might be.

edit: sorry, misread Vampire and Vallaha as the same and it came out Insomnia, fuksticks
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Apr 11, 2012 - 11:48am PT
I've done the first 18 of them.

Paisano is on the ticklist, and I've been working on the occasional inversion OW to get the skills down for it but one of these days I'll have to put in a concerted effort to get mad fit for that one. Laps on Boulder 13 inverted will be good training when I finally decided to go for that one.

I tried The Pirate on TR. I'm not sure if I'll ever put in the time to work/lead that thing. It's just thin, insecure weirdness. Beautiful line, but not very enjoyable IMO. I'd rather put my time in on something else so I doubt I'll get around to leading that one.


Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 11, 2012 - 11:56am PT
Couple more of my favs:


Unchaste 5.10d
Turbo Flange 5.11b (The Edge)
Open Book 5.9
Pharoah to Vampire 5.12b (my fav complete route at Tahquitz)
Stairway to Heaven 5.12b (super good, most air of any route in Idylwild)
Green Rosetta 5.10d??


Hades 5.12c (1st pitch is best slab pitch - 12a - on the rock)
Disco Jesus 5.11b
Caliente 5.12c (spectacular)
Someone Your Not 5.13? (best line, perfect rock, historical)
Mickey Mantle 5.8 Gotta do it (or Pink Royd, nearby)
Ten Karat Gold 5.10a (classic)
Rebolting Development 5.11b (heady, remarkable for 1971 in Robbins boots)
Godzilla's Return (head trip, novel)
Obscured by Clouds 5.11a (rated 5.10d) Don't fall


I've ticked the list plenty times but my fingers are too fat and I can't even start The Pirate free. I tried face climbing it on a TR and got like 10 feet. I can't pull a single lock.

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 11, 2012 - 11:58am PT
Did the sword back when it was there. I've heard rumors it's gone now.

El Wampo, Grace Slick, El Grandote all good.

NE Face West over on that side is a fun one also. IMO superior to the Larks.


Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Apr 11, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Many years ago did the first 19 (aided the Pirate). Last few years I have been repeating the first few on the list. Still a beautiful place to be at, and the rock is great, no matter what the rating. Todd thanks for making me remember those good times...

Apr 11, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
TM's Jewels not on the list, wtf.
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Apr 11, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Checking the ticks in my 1973 Wilts guide, I have all but 4. Some, like the "Green Arch" in winter, with aid. As mongrel says-most before'70. The list looks well-rounded.

Here's a photo of Paul on a free attempt of the "Flakes" in '72. Paul always ran it out, saving pro "in case the climbing got hard". I think this is the second pitch of "Stairway to Heaven" too. (Those plucky Stonemasters were always one step ahead of us with the FFAs!)
I remember seconding the roof on "Le Toit" in '67 thinking it would go free too. Here's Phil on it way back when.

Steve G.
I was there the day Gosling and Harrell did the FA of "Damoclese" in '68. Looked pretty sketchy to me even then! Steck and Wilts did another death flake- "Guillotine"- about that time too and my partner-Ray Palmer was keen on getting an early ascent of it along with "Serpentine" and "Surprise" etc... Fun times then, always running into Camps, Wilts, Couch, Turney, Reynolds.

If the algorithm measures popularity, maybe climbs like "Swallow" and "Long Climb" will be open next time I'm there. Always thought the chute at the top of the "Larks" was a magical place-full of moss ferns and flowers in '65. Wonder what it looks like now.


Social climber
The Past
Apr 11, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
For the life of me I absolutely cannot fathom how the Source at Suicide could ever be left off anyone's top 10 list, much less top 20 list. Know what I mean?

Lists like that are pretty subjective. MP probably just needs more input on some routes not in the list and it would correct itself a little.

Gotta agree about the flake (last) pitch of QD/Ishi. Superb.

JL has several in his list that should be right up there. At both the big/little stones.

Also, pretty hard to beat Moondance. In spite of how good the QD/Ishi lieback is, that could be the best route on the Sunshine - at a minimum. (obviously just IMO)

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 11, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Also, pretty hard to beat Moondance.

Moondance is great. I've done it twice, the first time I had fun and it was engaging. The second (and last,) I decided it's not one of those routes I wanted to keep coming back and doing again and again. Yikes!

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 11, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
The Dr. flanked by MP and Dave Stahl. Rob R in there as well.

Trad climber
Apr 11, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
Totally concur that Fred belongs on that list, Ten Karat Gold too.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 11, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
Moondance is excellent, but not destined to become a trade route. But what does Henny know?

JL's list has some great climbs, and there are even more. But, it seems that most people do the same routes and haven't experienced some true gems.

Also, I'd strike off El Camino -- one only pretty good pitch, but kinda junky before and nothing special after. On The Road is better imho, but even it shouldn't be on a top 20 list.


Social climber
The Past
Apr 11, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
Randy repeatedly hits the nail on the head. With at least glancing blows.

Moondance is excellent, but not destined to become a trade route.

Does it need to be a trade route to make a top howevermany list? If top classics, perhaps. Otherwise, maybe not.

But what does Henny know?
The older I get, it seems the less. However, the best way to fit in on ST is to act like you know it all anyway.

But, it seems that most people do the same routes and haven't experienced some true gems.

Agreed on El Camino.

portland, Oregon
Apr 11, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
18 from the list, the Pirate on aid. The last pitch of Ishi can be reached by doing the first pitch of the Drain Pipe and then traversing right and up to the bottom of the flake. Did this with E eons ago. Not sure how hard it is, perhaps a touch harder than the Drain Pipe. No bolts added, not seriously run. That last pitch on Ishi is classic.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 273 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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