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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Saratoga Springs, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2006 - 08:43pm PT
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Rhapsody E11 7a
Rhapsody E11 7a takes the true finish to Requiem on Dumbarton Rock's main face. The Requiem crack fades out into a blind seam halfway up the wall and the original route follows a flake on the right to the top. It was always an obvious project to climb the seam all the way to the top. After his ascent of Requiem in 1983, Dave Cuthbertson inspected the line, but left it on account of the obviously very hard climbing and "protection problem". The next attention it saw was from me in 2002 after having done Achemine (E9) just to the left. I could only do about half the moves and felt it was very futuristic but possible for someone - there are holds all the way, just very small and unhelpful ones. In early 2004 I managed all but two of the moves. Then in early 2005, after a lot of day on the shunt I managed to climb each of the individual moves. It took the spring and summer of 2005 to build up to linking the line on a top rope, working and training on it almost exclusively (and hardly getting any other climbing done!).
In September I had my first lead attempt - the headwall above the crack feels about F8c in itself and there is no more protection, so a fall from the final moves ends almost back at the belay ledge 60 feet below, with a violent swing and slam into the rock. After falling fairly low in the crux section a couple of times, I made it to the last move, and despite touching the finishing hold, fell, snapping the RP3 runner and falling 70 feet, passing the belay ledge on the way. The lead attempts continued into October, until my worst fear was realised and the rope wrapped itself around my leg as I fell, flipping me upside down, crushing and burning my leg and slamming my back off the wall. I just managed to pull my head out the way, If I hadn't I would be dead. I had already lost the momentum, but then it was completely gone after I snapped off the crucial crux undercut and had to start working a new crux sequence from scratch.
That was it for the season, so I regained my strength and confidence from doing two Font 8b's over winter and training specifically for more attempts in March. Things came together quickly and with Claire belaying me on the first time on the route, I linked it first try on the top rope. The following week I was back on the lead, feeling confident through the crux in perfect conditions and a big crowd below. I was convinced I would make it, but as I adjusted my feet and looked up at the finishing jug, I felt all my strength disappear, elbows come out and confidence evaporate. I slapped the hold but the next instant was flying again with a massive smash off the wall, spraining my ankles, twisting a knee and cutting and bruising my feet.
After several days enforced rest, everything was set for Sunday - good forecast and the positive vibe of Claire holding the rope again. But on arriving at the crag, a two hour blizzard kicked off, ending all hope of getting on the route. But the warm sun came back out and we inspected the line, trying to dry the finishing holds with t-shirts and tissues. At the last minute it was dry and I called Claire. Back on the horrible shake out I felt awful - nervous, negative, I just didn-t want to be there. So I tried to think positive and thought "just climb it then and you won't have to come back here again, either way it will be over in a minute". I shook and wobbled through every move and arrived back staring at the finishing hold. To grab it and pull over after all those times falling is an indescribable feeling. I thought I was going to melt!
After putting everything else aside for two year to climb Rhapsody I'm now looking forward to climbing other places again. A lot of people helped me do this route - thanks! Top effort to Hotaches Diff and Dave Brown (and the team) for filming the whole process; including driving over for every single attempt and spending way too much time shivering at the top of Dumbarton rock waiting for my next go. But with more than 500 feet of airtime on video, I reckon it was worth it eh?
Dave MacLeod (10-04-2006)
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Saratoga Springs, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2006 - 08:44pm PT
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"I think they have disowned Mick Ryan.
8A"
Odd, they never owned me in the first place.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 12, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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Don't listen to that 8a clown. He's never even placed a nut!!!!!!!!!!!
BWHAHAHAHAHAHA!
( I hear he can pull like fuk on sport though )
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 12, 2006 - 09:15pm PT
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a wise man once said, after listening to a number of young (and not so young) turks debate a bunch of pointless ethical ephermera vis-a-vis sytle and such, asked this question:
"vy can't ve chust climb??"
"enough of this hiking, when are we going to get on to the climbing??"
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duncan
climber
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Apr 13, 2006 - 07:25am PT
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A little history (for Americans)…
In the beginning, rock-climbing was a development of Alpinism so naturally the accepted style of climbing was ground-up. In the UK, cliffs are small, so the occasional crafty top-rope or abseil inspection is quite easy to rig up and was used on the quiet from quite early on. The fractured nature of the rock meant that most routes had some natural protection and so an anti-piton and then anti-bolt ethic arose to maintain the challenge. By the 1970s the supply of new routes was perceived as drying up and more obscure crags were developed. Frequently these had to be scraped out of the hillside (eg Goat Crag in Borrowdale). In case north American readers are not aware, it rains quite often in the UK and cliff vegetation is frequently prolific, so this required heroic gardening with crowbars and yard brushes. Not something that can be done ground-up. Additionally, the growth of sea-cliff climbing inverted usual practice: you start at the top and frequently abseil down your route to start. The effect of this was that abseil cleaning and inspection became widespread, which lead fairly rapidly to checking holds and the sneaky practicing of sections on the ab. rope. By the early 80s this kind of ‘cheating’ was widespread but frequently unacknowledged, a bit like the practice of ‘yo-yo’ ground-up ascents that were also popular at the time.
Sport climbing came along and changed the rules, ‘Cheating’ was out in the open and became codified. A certain amount practicing and pre-inspection was usual in the local traditional form, so the difference between “trad” climbing and sport climbing was perceived as being bolts. Trad = no bolts; sport = bolts. Battles raged between the bolters and non-bolters in the mid-80s but eventually everyone agreed to get along (mostly).
Head-pointing must be trad. as it doesn’t involve bolts.
A little history (for Brits)…
In the beginning, rock-climbing was a development of Alpinism so naturally the accepted style of climbing was ground-up. In the USA, cliffs are big, so top-rope or abseil inspection is usually damn hard to arrange and people generally didn’t bother. The un-fractured nature of the granite meant that many routes had no natural protection and so the use of bolts was permitted, if placed ground-up to maintain the challenge. In case our UK readers are not aware, those American cliffs are clean, blank and smooth and climbing without bolts is inconceivable. No-one has climbed El Cap without bolts (now there’s a challenge for some ethical Brit…) and no-one thought The Nose was anything less than an awesome achievement despite Warren Harding drilling over a 100 holes on the first ascent. By the 1970s ground-up climbing reached it’s zenith with fearsome routes climbed replete with epic tales of drilling from tiny stances. As standards rose, the routes got steeper and drilling ground-up got harder and harder. Ethics got stretched to permit drilling from hooks or other forms of aid, so long as it was ground-up. By the early 80s this kind of ‘cheating’ was widespread.
Sport climbing came along and changed the rules, ‘Cheating’ was out in the open and became codified. A certain amount of bolting was usual in the local traditional form, so the difference between “trad” climbing and sport climbing was perceived as being one of style. Trad = ground-up; sport = top-down preparation. Battles raged between the rap-bolters and ground-uppers in the mid-80s but eventually everyone agreed to get along (mostly).
Head-pointing can’t be trad. as it involves prior practice.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Apr 13, 2006 - 10:11am PT
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I could nit pick a few little points, but overall that is a really good explanation of the little "cultural divide" that we've been having on this forum. Nice one Duncan.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Apr 13, 2006 - 11:34am PT
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Duncan,
overall I think this explains the divide, good job. Like many old timers I dislike the word trad, mainly because it does not necessarily describe the type of climbing that I grew up on (runout Granite Slab climbing and using bolts for protection). I remember climbing at a backwater place in the US about 15 years ago where some of the routes had been Top Roped into submission prior to leading them. One of the routes in particular had poor pro. I could not help but think that if the FA had been ground up, that there may have been a bolt or two placed, even if the FAist would have been hanging off a hook or something else. As I was used to approaching climbs ground up, I felt like the guy had been cheating. I know that one of the arguments used in the great sport climbing debate of the 80's here was that gound up created a level playing field. That was what was missing to me at this place where scary routes were created by TRing first. The guidebook failed to mention the style of the FA. I think that is where some of the folks were coming from here.
Hats off to Dave though. By not placing bolts he is upping the ante and someday, perhaps it will be upped again...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 11:43am PT
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duncan - "Trad = no bolts; sport = bolts"
What about Tuolumne Meadows? Bob Kamps "trad" routes are still feared today. Many were bolted on stance with no falls and have been upgraded several letter grades from their original rating. They're still trad despite the perceived definition of "trad". Kamps would agree if he were still with us. Ask Higgins.
And I think you're right..."Head-pointing can’t be trad. as it involves prior practice" - so I'll have to retract on the "trad - headpoint" thing I stated earlier. Headpointing can't be trad in a strict sense - it's still fun however.
cheers, jb
oh yeah, sorry guys, but the UK still has the best beer!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 13, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
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You missed it, John. "Trad = ground-up" applies to us Yanks. Tuolumne Meadows is in the US--where bolts are an accepted part of trad equation. Kamps was a traditionalist long before the term was defined, when we were both in the cradle.
But, I gotta agree with you... Nothing beats a proper ale, best served somewhere in GB. However, outside of a quality British pub, I'll take a Belgian Lambic any day. There's attention to detail in every bottle!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 13, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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"Hardest Traditional Route in the World climbed?"
No, not yet (I think it's still some years away).
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Apr 13, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
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Bachar, your off your bean lad. Best beer is brewed in the Pacific Northwest United States of Uncle Sam, eh.
Portland, OR is probably THE mecca of beer....beervana as it were. Don;t get me wrong, I love ale from the UK as well, but all in all, the PNW has it over Germany, Belgium, UK, etc and I'd wager they out-do many of those places in their own signature styles.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 13, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
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There's always some superman who can show up and upset the apple cart, particularly if a woman dumps him, but...
There are a few reasons why 5.11 used to be the hardest grade in the world. It wasn't just about the shoes and pins (shoes are THAT important on overhanging limestone)
First (in the US) guys like Bachar and Kauk actually TRAINED instead of just drinking and jumping back into their aiders.
But the second reason concerned tactics. Studs like Kamps could stand on nothing and tap in a bolt every 40 feet on a thin 5.11 climb but there ain't nobody who can do it on overhanging 5.14.
So folks want the higher grades, the equation of things change, the nature of the danger and stresses change but folks still create and gravitate toward the level of adventure they want to enjoy/suffer.
The same "ethics" that might allow someone to fly a plane across the ocean with using oxygen, heating, automation and whatnot will never apply to flying to the moon.
Peace
Karl
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 10:06pm PT
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"Trad = ground-up" - rmuir. Exactly. For Yankies. But probably elsewhere like Elbsandtsein too.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Saratoga Springs, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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"Trad = no bolts" - bmoon. Exactly. For Limeys. But probably elsewhere like the USA too, if they were completely honest with themselves.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 14, 2006 - 12:37am PT
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Do "Chingadera", Tahquitz. Tell me that ain't trad. 5.10c... - Kamps.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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Apr 14, 2006 - 01:41am PT
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but in the Elbe river gorge, Czech and German sides, they are rap placing bolts with power drills and even using chalk now!
People used to get carried off by the meat wagon from decking out on the classic routes, now they get carted away from ethic battles in the pubs.
Fortunately there are laws protecting the classics from retro bolting. It is still illegal to use chalk, nuts and cams in the rock. The rap bolting and chalk use is generally frowned upon by the climbing community.
And by the way Elcapinyoazz: You possibly could be the the one who is off your bean. Czech republic has the best beers in the world, most Germans will even attest to that. So many Germans go to Czech on the weekends and holidays to 1. Drink Czech beer. 2. Save money. 3. See prettier women. (please don’t take this as sexism or racism) :-)
And I’m speaking about lager beer.
The first amber beer in the world was created in Ceska Republika in the city of Plzen and the original Budweiser is from Ceske Budejovice. In Czech they call our Bud “limonada” Ha! :-)
There sure isn’t a town called Budweiser in America.
Also, almost every little village in Czech and Slovakia has a local beer/lager that SMOKES the best micro brews here in the States. Czech republic is even in the Guinness book of world records for the highest consumption of beer in the world, it ain’t just Czech’s drink’n it. Na sracky ty vole!!!
Enjoy the photo’s:
It comes to USA this way thanks to the idiots at anhauser busch
The first amber colored beer in the world, straight out of CZ ty vole! :-)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 14, 2006 - 02:38am PT
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I think I need one of them "Super Strong" Budweisers to test drive. All we gots out here is High Gravity Camo XXXXX (yep, 5 x's)
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 14, 2006 - 02:50am PT
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Na Zdravi !
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 14, 2006 - 03:44am PT
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Old, Stiff, US Trad = Ground Up, No Dogging, No TR Rehersal, Pull the rope after falls, Onsight if possible...
Old, Erickson, US Trad = Ground Up, No Dogging, No TR Rehersal, No Falls, Onsight or Walk Away...
Old, Relaxed, US Trad = Ground Up, No Dogging, No TR Rehersal, Onsight if possible...
New, US Trad = Ground Up, No TR Rehersal, Onsight if possible...
I have always considered the seminal (and largely unacknowledged and unspoken) difference between trad and sport wasn't the method of protection, but the dogging. The real change between what has come to be known as "trad" and today's climbing is the widespread acceptance and adoption of this practice at all levels of difficulty - in both sport and trad. It was one thing at the advent of sport climbing to accept it was necessary on extreme routes, but quite another shortly thereafter seeing folks dogging up everything.
Dogging has clearly made its way from sport and gyms to now become firmly embedded in today's normative notion of "trad" (which is not a practice entirely without peril). Also, "Trad" never implied no fixed protection, but rather always favored gear and considered any fixed pins or bolts as a last resort.
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