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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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That'd be quite the slog up the hill to those boulders. I do remember two cracks in particular that were as clean and perfect as you could imagine. Here's one of 'em (w/Bruce Nyberg in the foreground):
Seems like this one was only about 5.9, but a sweet and sustained lieback all the way up.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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mooser,
"sweet and sustained" sums up that crack very well
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 28, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Its a beautiful crack, so solid. I wanted to 3rd class it so bad but could never pull the trigger.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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^^^ - Me, neither! The landing would not be a happy one. It kind of bulges out until more than half way near the top where you've got that really nice foothold.
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localclimber
climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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i welcome all to the area i've been developing in the anza borrego desert over 300 problems and just found more.lots of high quality rock great setting and good camping .
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
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I'd have to mention the Twenty Point Boulder at Santee for not only is it unique for the area but has a pretty cool sequence of moves on the south face...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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..and how about the Dead Animal Traverse with the Animal Mantle finish, another unique problem that interupts the plethora of slabs and dimes in the area:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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...and of course, you can't forget the crazy mantles out there...
Greg Epperson on his own creation Eppi's Lunge:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Man, speaking of nostalgia, most of the names I use to chase are right here on Supertopo today...*sigh.* It was because of you guys, Greg Epperson, Mike Paul, Ron Amick, Rick Allenby, Rick Piggot, The Almadovar brothers, Adrian and Jeff, Ray Olsen, and I'm sure I've left out more than a few, that were setting the pace for me and others out at Santee and Mt. Woodson, the Pink Boulder, Lake Dixon, Crest, and the boulders off of Mother Grundy Truck Trail near Campo, b.i.t.d., MAN, what a ride! Hat's off to you all for taking me under your wings at times and showing me the "ropes." The videos I'm posting are really all about you guys for I still share all of your names and stories with the new kids out there and roll the credit your way when they thank me. What memories they were, and thanks again.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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WOW!!
Awesome stuff!
My day off got shut down by rain, but I'm psyched to start checking some of these areas out! Localclimber, that anza stuff looks pretty awesome! Yeah Trevor I shoulda gone with you to butt boulders or whatever (hehe) back when you invited me, maybe next time your down I can head out with you and your pops and play around? you still got my # right? If not facebook me homey!
This weekend I'll be in Johsua Tree with some newer people but it will be nice not to have to drive all that way to climb :)
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Over the weekend I did the "5.11 problem" on the Orange Cube Boulder at Mission Gorge. It was an instant classic for me! Tiny crimps to start, big gaston move, moving around the corner for a sloper, set up for a throw, then a funky mantel. TOO GOOD.
We tried the (possible) route with the copperhead jammed in it. No go, but I'm sure for someone it would be a "go". After a few rips on it our beta began to include grabbing at the wire...
My friend showed me a couple of other boulders that we had to be sneaky about. One was fairly short, two cool routes on its overhanging south face. Located somewhere in between the two trails that lead to the crags. Then we got on another boulder that was much larger and further down the road (past both climbers' trails). There were two pretty cool climbs on there, and a couple of super easy things, but I wondered if we found the elusive "TRASH ROCK"?! It didn't have a bolt so maybe I'll have to keep lookin'. But there was a problem on its north face on edges and jugs, not too hard, V1-ish, and awesome. So I gotta keep looking for the "REAL" Trash Rock I guess! Anyone have any PICS?!
I was kinda surprised that we managed to get a mini bouldering circuit in over at Mission Gorge!
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Jarus
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2015 - 03:19am PT
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 23, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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Is that the boulder up Old Castle road off the 15? Steve McQueen boulder.
And is that you B-dog?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 23, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Here's the Steve McQueen boulder. Not sure the other one is it? No, that is it. Same boulder. A fire had *just* gone through last time I was there. It was filthy. The ash was inescapable. Fade to black.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:54am PT
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a place that has been largely forgotten is magnolia boulders, a hill covered with high quality problems at the north end of magnolia blvd in el cajon.
Its been years since ive been there and access has surely changed, but you used to drive north on magnolia to where the road ends, then continue on dirt thru an illegal dump, and a dirt road winds to the top from there. Used to be kinda rutted, borderline 4WD, but its flat and spacious on top and high quality boulders are all over the place, easy access, usually good landings. Werner held the 1978 stonemasters bouldering contest there. Well worth a look if you havent been.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:03am PT
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shots from the 78 contest at magnoliacranking for the teevee cameranice 10c crack thats right next to where you park on toprandom problemcrowd shot, can you find john bachar and shawn curtis?buds in this pic; jeff and adrian amondovar, steve vaughn, greg epperson
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