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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Time's gonna be a-changin' and I'm looking to head out into the hills again after work! I've done a small portion of the easy classics at woodson (Jaws, Robbins Crack, Crucible -not a boulder problem for mortals-, Hear My Train -OK - just the first move, but still-), and played a bit out by Santee.
But that's really it. I've heard of good stuff by the creek at Mission Gorge, as well as some local, email-only fallbrook beta (been invited to McQueen(?) boulders a dozen times, never took up the offer), but really haven't looked around sufficiantly.
Anything any grade is cool, if its Vhard I can just fiddle around on it sometime in the future and easy is cool, too :)
Woodson is a no-brainer but I have a strong liking to North County Sh#t D.G. (cut my teeth at Dixon Lake).
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apogee
climber
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Feb 24, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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South Mudball boulder at Santee holds a special place in my heart- after being spit off innumerable times in my EB's, the first time in a pair of Fire's and I nailed it. That problem is always the quintessential example of the impact of technology on climbing (good or bad).
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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i havn't been bouldering in age's but when i think of Santee, 'Suzies Mantle' comes to mind right off the bat..i can picture others but don't recall the names yet..i use to live across the street from 'Magnolia Boulders' & went up there often..& i did go to the '79 contest there when MPaul, JB & the Bullwinkle made an appearance & can remember the problems but they didn't have names yet(big help so far, eh? lol)..okay, my all time favorite Woodson problem would havta be 'Silk Banana' on account of i finally got tha sucka wired after much blood, sweat & beers..and the 'Television Screen' has some great problems on it starting with the right edge/arete(as you face it from the road)and the same arete from the backside..oh ya, the 'Pink Boulder' down by the river at Mission Gorge is way cool..just find it(directly across the street & down by the river bed from the trail up to the cliff)..start on the left side of the PB(as you face it)& work your way around(doing the various problems)to the back side by the river where there are some really cool problems..cud name a few more but not sure if yer gonna hava belayer with ya..(you did say boulder probs).
edit: Lynne wud be familiar with Dixon, etc. since she lives in that neck of the woods.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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The north side of Trash Rock in Mission Gorge has what is definately one of the best V4 face problems in San Diego, but you gotta be ninja about it these days. No climbing allowed. You can find the problem easily because there's a bolt on top (appeared sometime after the 70's, when it was strictly a boulder problem.) I poached it with Off White in 2007 and it was every bit as good as I remembered. Not high enough to get hurt on, but up there, with a tough crank to start and a thriller move to finish.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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There are a few amazingly DG problems in the Julian area near the Winona camp I put up last year. I'm guessing they hadn't been done before because I broke a bit of every hold. Really stellar stuff though. Aside from the choss. Actually, even the choss was pretty good.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Oh HELL YEAH Colin. San Diego choss rokz domz, yo. I did all that Julian sh#t back in '73. 1873. Those holds you broke off I danced past with my Balanchine grace and smooth, svelt technique.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:39am PT
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Be honest with yourself, Beev. When you climbed that stuff it wasn't DG yet.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Southwest for the winter
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Feb 24, 2012 - 03:25am PT
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I have been checking out the backside of the Orange cube boulder in Mission Gorge. One line has what appears to be a copperhead in it, then there is an ugly arete of sorts too. I can't find any info on it...I am working on these lines with optimism, but they seem hard.
Steve
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Feb 24, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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ECM has awesome bouldering on high quality rock.
I hear the Wholford lake area has some stuff too.
Gdavis, I live in Escondido, if you want to do some exploring up in the north county area and need a partner let me know.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 25, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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I hear the Wholford lake area has some stuff too.
Talked about only in hushed voices in the back rooms of climbing shops and dark and dingy bars. Whispers of innuendo and lies about boulders and catfish dinners.
Nothing to see here...
Move along.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Feb 25, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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Greg when i get back from Canada I will take you to Rainbow and you will have a whole new gagle of favorites to climb on in a super cool no. county setting.
Till then Ice Ice baby!!!!!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 25, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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One of my favorite SD County boulders is just outside the north end of Escondido, at the top of the hill to your left as you're leaving town. I always called it "Seal Rock," though I suppose it has another name. There's an amazing 11.b/c - ish crack on the back (west?) side that can be led or TR'd. If you TR it, the fall is a big swing out, as it's so overhanging. I'm sure someone on here knows the full scoop on it, but I loved it. I recall that it's maybe just before you get to Deer Springs Rd. going north on I-15. Impossible to miss, really.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 25, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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Yep, seal rock. Piggot found it. That wide crack on the back was always considered 5.10+/5.11- back in the day. Definately worth ticking.
Definately take that guy up on the 'Bo tour. Uber-swank.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 25, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Pink Boulder had to be one of the best single, isolated boulders on earth. We haunted that thing for years, there is a different problem every body width all around it, and a traverse thats probably V5.
I use past tense, becuse nobody is even allowed to go over the guardrail on the river side of the road these days. Its being preserved so future generations cant use it either.
I was leaving the gorge around nightfall this past summer, and decided to just go down and touch The Pink once again. Flood debris is so thick around it that its hard to get within 10 feet of it. I was able to get to the rock right by the tree. I could see that the sand has risen so high that it cancels most of the problems. It was sad to see it there buried in sand and covered with debris, alone and unvisited.
Pink Boulder was once the spiritual center of San Diego climbing.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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Pink Boulder was the mantle acadamy!
A hunk of greasy love!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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I dont doubt that Kevin, but Pink goes back to a time when San Diego climbing was Mission Gorge and nothing else. It exists in the cradle of SD climbing and has a long and storied history.
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mdavid
Big Wall climber
CA, CO, TX
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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back in high school i had this place by lake hodges all to myself. The entire area was ripe for the picking, no bolts, chalk or anyone around...this gem was a little offhands however the landing was slick from water and you just needed to not fall.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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One of my favorite SD County boulders is just outside the north end of Escondido, at the top of the hill to your left as you're leaving town. I always called it "Seal Rock," though I suppose it has another name.
Indeed it does have another name... for those of us that grew up here it's always been known as "The Bear and the Cub". I heard that Piggot got the FA on the crack problem sometime mid 80's or so. Used to be able to drive/4x4 up to it, but I'm not sure about access now. Might be a hike.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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I'm pretty sure it predates the 80's. I think, anyway. But I can't recall for sure. I definatly remember being up there with the Scumbags so that'd be mid-late 70's.
EDIT: The very, very first boulder problem I ever did is in that Pink Boulder photo! Greg is blocking the view of it. It starts right behind Epi's ass and finishes, of course, over Ron's head.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Yeah, also heard it referred to as the mama, papa & baby bears since the early seventies. Or mama and papa bear or whatever!
edit: my friends wife is the one who would call it by the bears name. she said her parents had called it that since she was a kid back in the early sixties. none of us got around to hiking up to it though.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:49am PT
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Is that the thing to the left of Yabositz, Kevin? Moderatly airy -- just enough to add to the fun? Damn that's good rock out there.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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You So Cal dudes are kinda cool. We got some sh#t up here, but I always dug you So Cal bros....
Weird vibe down there, almost a different latitude...But sweet.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:47am PT
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Still nothing to see here...
Move along. Move along.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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The wierd thing is none of these photos even begin to communicate how diamond and exquisite that rock feels when you touch it. A lot of the pics make it look, like, "oh yeah, standard-issue San Diego County Granite, good." But it realy does have a touchfeel all it's own.
Not sure it's worth travelling for, though. These are not the boulders you seek.
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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The smell after a rain that my brain flashed on last time climbing even though I was high above Boulder.
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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BvB
Some young studs showed GE and I all the new, never touched, never been climbed problems at Santee about 90.
Yep it’s all a first and new to someone and what really matters eh?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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Dudes. Obviously I'm rending my sacastic teasing of the non-San Diegans way too subtly for this forum!
If the floodgates to 'bo and related North County environs were opened, population density on the best spring and fall weekends would increase by whole orders of magnitude.
It's always fun to randomly bump into other climbers at rarely-visited areas, but 50 climbers overrunning some of these spots on any given Sunday would be a nightmare. Look at the thrashing the vegetation has taken in the 'Milks over the last 25 years.
Of course, merely glance away from a San Diego climbing trail for 15 minutes and the Chapparal Curtian has vigorously reasserted itself. It's more about set and setting I guess.
In any event, unless you're really thirsty for some good limestone or sandstone, or have a serious wanderlust and just wanna go on a roadtrip, it's hard to concoct excuses to leave the county.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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One of my favorite SD County boulders is just outside the north end of Escondido, at the top of the hill to your left as you're leaving town. I always called it "Seal Rock," though I suppose it has another name. There's an amazing 11.b/c - ish crack on the back (west?) side that can be led or TR'd. If you TR it, the fall is a big swing out, as it's so overhanging. I'm sure somewhere on here knows the full scoop on it, but I loved it. I recall that it's maybe just before you get to Deer Springs Rd. going north on I-15. Impossible to miss, really
Seen this a thousand times.... always wondered...
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 26, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Wonder no more, and get after that bad boy!
...bring tape!
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Funny how things change. When I first started climbing, the oceans of rock in san diego county were regarded as brushbound talus, without climbing value. Even large chunks of rock were written off as chossy and/or brushbound.
That attitude started turning around in the late 70s, and now its come full circle...almost everything is climbable, and alot of that is really good.
Kevin is absolutely right. San Diego County will be in the developmental and exploratory stage for decades to come. The sheer volume of rock is out of control.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Bob, you forgot to add that was the ONLY problem you ever did on pink.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Obviously I'm rending my sarcastic teasing of the non-San Diegans way too subtly for this forum! You may be right. But I dig the Obi-Wan jedi mind trick...
These are not the boulders you seek. But The Warbler is right... boulders are flung to edges of SD county. I doubt it'll ever be a destination for the sake of bouldering in and of itself. I'm pretty sure that those of us with our (supposed) secret little areas are pretty safe from the mongrel masses descending and crashing the party. And in the ever so prevalent tradition of San Diego county locals, we're all a bunch of tight lipped mo-fo's anyway!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
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The Crest boulders over looking Singing Hills have some great rock.
Lived in Crest from 82 - 88 and bouldered there a lot. There are some large faces and cracks, rope needed. Good view to the ocean and the sunsets were fantastic.
In the 90's some bolted face routes went up and a guide was published.
Not sure about access now, it's been awhile.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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Seal Rock, the Bears etc is right above my house. Crack is great, but it has been getting trashed by partiers and now has access issues. I used to ride my mtb up there by sneaking into Emerald Heights and riding past the water tank. Best approach now (poaching) is from the east side. Tape is a good thing.
Hodges has some fun stuff. I noticed some bolts on a slab below the upper single track on the north side. Anyone know about that?
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Trevor
Gym climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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Greg, I'll show you the stuff west of Lawrence Welk next time I'm in town. There's tons of stuff up there and never a soul around.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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This is all whetting my appetite something fierce. We're probably returning to San Diego later this year after 27 years away, and I can't wait to return to old circuits, and to develop some new ones.
BTW, yeah...Crest has some amazing boulders. Super clean and classic. I've also been shot at from below while bouldering (from way below), but that was years ago.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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The dirt parking area above the crags at Crest is private property and has been closed for years, which effectively shut down climbing there. I think its still legal to climb the rock, you just have to hump up to the crags from the base now.
Too bad, I really liked climbing there. You could park almost on top of the crags, and the rock at Crest has better holds than most rock in the county.
The guide was put out by a guy named Ross Janke, who did most of the bolting out there. Most, if not all it was rap bolted. Some of those bolted lines are really contrived, where youre not supposed to touch this or that, and on some you are expected to follow the bolts rather than the natural line.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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That'd be quite the slog up the hill to those boulders. I do remember two cracks in particular that were as clean and perfect as you could imagine. Here's one of 'em (w/Bruce Nyberg in the foreground):
Seems like this one was only about 5.9, but a sweet and sustained lieback all the way up.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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mooser,
"sweet and sustained" sums up that crack very well
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 28, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Its a beautiful crack, so solid. I wanted to 3rd class it so bad but could never pull the trigger.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 28, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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^^^ - Me, neither! The landing would not be a happy one. It kind of bulges out until more than half way near the top where you've got that really nice foothold.
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localclimber
climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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i welcome all to the area i've been developing in the anza borrego desert over 300 problems and just found more.lots of high quality rock great setting and good camping .
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
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I'd have to mention the Twenty Point Boulder at Santee for not only is it unique for the area but has a pretty cool sequence of moves on the south face...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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..and how about the Dead Animal Traverse with the Animal Mantle finish, another unique problem that interupts the plethora of slabs and dimes in the area:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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...and of course, you can't forget the crazy mantles out there...
Greg Epperson on his own creation Eppi's Lunge:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Man, speaking of nostalgia, most of the names I use to chase are right here on Supertopo today...*sigh.* It was because of you guys, Greg Epperson, Mike Paul, Ron Amick, Rick Allenby, Rick Piggot, The Almadovar brothers, Adrian and Jeff, Ray Olsen, and I'm sure I've left out more than a few, that were setting the pace for me and others out at Santee and Mt. Woodson, the Pink Boulder, Lake Dixon, Crest, and the boulders off of Mother Grundy Truck Trail near Campo, b.i.t.d., MAN, what a ride! Hat's off to you all for taking me under your wings at times and showing me the "ropes." The videos I'm posting are really all about you guys for I still share all of your names and stories with the new kids out there and roll the credit your way when they thank me. What memories they were, and thanks again.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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WOW!!
Awesome stuff!
My day off got shut down by rain, but I'm psyched to start checking some of these areas out! Localclimber, that anza stuff looks pretty awesome! Yeah Trevor I shoulda gone with you to butt boulders or whatever (hehe) back when you invited me, maybe next time your down I can head out with you and your pops and play around? you still got my # right? If not facebook me homey!
This weekend I'll be in Johsua Tree with some newer people but it will be nice not to have to drive all that way to climb :)
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Over the weekend I did the "5.11 problem" on the Orange Cube Boulder at Mission Gorge. It was an instant classic for me! Tiny crimps to start, big gaston move, moving around the corner for a sloper, set up for a throw, then a funky mantel. TOO GOOD.
We tried the (possible) route with the copperhead jammed in it. No go, but I'm sure for someone it would be a "go". After a few rips on it our beta began to include grabbing at the wire...
My friend showed me a couple of other boulders that we had to be sneaky about. One was fairly short, two cool routes on its overhanging south face. Located somewhere in between the two trails that lead to the crags. Then we got on another boulder that was much larger and further down the road (past both climbers' trails). There were two pretty cool climbs on there, and a couple of super easy things, but I wondered if we found the elusive "TRASH ROCK"?! It didn't have a bolt so maybe I'll have to keep lookin'. But there was a problem on its north face on edges and jugs, not too hard, V1-ish, and awesome. So I gotta keep looking for the "REAL" Trash Rock I guess! Anyone have any PICS?!
I was kinda surprised that we managed to get a mini bouldering circuit in over at Mission Gorge!
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Jarus
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2015 - 03:19am PT
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 23, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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Is that the boulder up Old Castle road off the 15? Steve McQueen boulder.
And is that you B-dog?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 23, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Here's the Steve McQueen boulder. Not sure the other one is it? No, that is it. Same boulder. A fire had *just* gone through last time I was there. It was filthy. The ash was inescapable. Fade to black.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:54am PT
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a place that has been largely forgotten is magnolia boulders, a hill covered with high quality problems at the north end of magnolia blvd in el cajon.
Its been years since ive been there and access has surely changed, but you used to drive north on magnolia to where the road ends, then continue on dirt thru an illegal dump, and a dirt road winds to the top from there. Used to be kinda rutted, borderline 4WD, but its flat and spacious on top and high quality boulders are all over the place, easy access, usually good landings. Werner held the 1978 stonemasters bouldering contest there. Well worth a look if you havent been.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:03am PT
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shots from the 78 contest at magnoliacranking for the teevee cameranice 10c crack thats right next to where you park on toprandom problemcrowd shot, can you find john bachar and shawn curtis?buds in this pic; jeff and adrian amondovar, steve vaughn, greg epperson
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:09am PT
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Posted this in another bouldering thread, but I think it deserves to be here as well... One of the many good ones in Culp Valley:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
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The hard crack at Magnolia. Trivia questions: Who was the first person to actually walk up there and check it out? A week or so later, who was in the first big-ass posse to go and start cleaning up?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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Ya missed a few, Ronny-O!
That's Frank Noble poking up head up in that gaggle of four girls, Accomazzo and Kevin Powell on the far right, Bullwinkle is the longhair standing behind Bachar, and Mike Lechlinski sitting down in front of Powell and Accomazzo. The midget Frank Noble is talking to the beanpole Erik Eriksson -- in this photo the top of his head looks like a bush! Fun day! Why is Bachar still wearing his EB's?!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 28, 2015 - 12:55am PT
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forgot to add that the little blonde on the far left was my girlfriend at the time
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 28, 2015 - 01:20am PT
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bunch of freaks from Diego out there, head north to castle rock for some real climbing and cooler temps,
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 28, 2015 - 01:50am PT
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Jesus Ron, she's seriously hot. Hairy "Bear Man" fetish?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Feb 28, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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I was at that contest, it was good fun.
I was in one of the group shots, but not the ones above.
Then I returned in the mid 80s for guidebook research.
Ron Amick and his posse took me on several guided tours of the area.
There is some good stuff.
I think Santee is better for bouldering, but you have to mix it up, so areas like Magnolia are a good diversion.
Ron showed me a bunch of other areas, it was good times...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 28, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
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Bump again for classic boulders at Crest
Excellent rock with a variety of problems.
Plenty of tall ones !!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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This thing is hard. Really hard. It's a sandbag even by Woodson standards. wtf
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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did scuffy ever come out of that crack? somebody should throw some food down in there,
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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BVB, Re: group shot...more evidence that you were hob knobbing with the hot guys while i was still learning how to customize my EBs (remember how we used to draw psychadelic designs all over the uppers?) On my gf, ya she was smokin hot and only lasted until she found a dude more hairy than me. But ya gotta remember, the tumbleweed 'do, giant moustache and 75% pubic hair body were in vogue in the 70's...
Craig, I had a great time climbing with you and helping out with the San Diego County portion of your bouldering guide. Your fiance that you brought down a couple times was hot, but we ran into her in mammoth a few years later and had dinner with her, and I must say bailing on that had to be one of your better decisions...nuff said.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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The man in that photo cannot be Bob Van Belle, he has muscle on his arms. Its either photoshopped, or boOB on roids. But boB, if you had a steroids phase, wouldnt you have looked me up, smacked me around and made me arm rassle until i swore you were the best rootin tootin climber ever? Something isnt right here, could this be the start of bobbygate IV? And why have we heard nothing of bobbygates I, II and III? Time to come clean beevee....
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Friend
climber
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Oct 21, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
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Great thread..
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 21, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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I'm with Warbler.
Wish I'd been in climbing shape when I got the tour but even the easy problems like Yabosits were really good.
Can't wait to go back some day.
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| Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic |
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