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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:49am PT
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Is that the thing to the left of Yabositz, Kevin? Moderatly airy -- just enough to add to the fun? Damn that's good rock out there.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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You So Cal dudes are kinda cool. We got some sh#t up here, but I always dug you So Cal bros....
Weird vibe down there, almost a different latitude...But sweet.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:47am PT
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Still nothing to see here...
Move along. Move along.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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The wierd thing is none of these photos even begin to communicate how diamond and exquisite that rock feels when you touch it. A lot of the pics make it look, like, "oh yeah, standard-issue San Diego County Granite, good." But it realy does have a touchfeel all it's own.
Not sure it's worth travelling for, though. These are not the boulders you seek.
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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The smell after a rain that my brain flashed on last time climbing even though I was high above Boulder.
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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BvB
Some young studs showed GE and I all the new, never touched, never been climbed problems at Santee about 90.
Yep it’s all a first and new to someone and what really matters eh?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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Dudes. Obviously I'm rending my sacastic teasing of the non-San Diegans way too subtly for this forum!
If the floodgates to 'bo and related North County environs were opened, population density on the best spring and fall weekends would increase by whole orders of magnitude.
It's always fun to randomly bump into other climbers at rarely-visited areas, but 50 climbers overrunning some of these spots on any given Sunday would be a nightmare. Look at the thrashing the vegetation has taken in the 'Milks over the last 25 years.
Of course, merely glance away from a San Diego climbing trail for 15 minutes and the Chapparal Curtian has vigorously reasserted itself. It's more about set and setting I guess.
In any event, unless you're really thirsty for some good limestone or sandstone, or have a serious wanderlust and just wanna go on a roadtrip, it's hard to concoct excuses to leave the county.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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One of my favorite SD County boulders is just outside the north end of Escondido, at the top of the hill to your left as you're leaving town. I always called it "Seal Rock," though I suppose it has another name. There's an amazing 11.b/c - ish crack on the back (west?) side that can be led or TR'd. If you TR it, the fall is a big swing out, as it's so overhanging. I'm sure somewhere on here knows the full scoop on it, but I loved it. I recall that it's maybe just before you get to Deer Springs Rd. going north on I-15. Impossible to miss, really
Seen this a thousand times.... always wondered...
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 26, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Wonder no more, and get after that bad boy!
...bring tape!
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Funny how things change. When I first started climbing, the oceans of rock in san diego county were regarded as brushbound talus, without climbing value. Even large chunks of rock were written off as chossy and/or brushbound.
That attitude started turning around in the late 70s, and now its come full circle...almost everything is climbable, and alot of that is really good.
Kevin is absolutely right. San Diego County will be in the developmental and exploratory stage for decades to come. The sheer volume of rock is out of control.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Bob, you forgot to add that was the ONLY problem you ever did on pink.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Obviously I'm rending my sarcastic teasing of the non-San Diegans way too subtly for this forum! You may be right. But I dig the Obi-Wan jedi mind trick...
These are not the boulders you seek. But The Warbler is right... boulders are flung to edges of SD county. I doubt it'll ever be a destination for the sake of bouldering in and of itself. I'm pretty sure that those of us with our (supposed) secret little areas are pretty safe from the mongrel masses descending and crashing the party. And in the ever so prevalent tradition of San Diego county locals, we're all a bunch of tight lipped mo-fo's anyway!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
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The Crest boulders over looking Singing Hills have some great rock.
Lived in Crest from 82 - 88 and bouldered there a lot. There are some large faces and cracks, rope needed. Good view to the ocean and the sunsets were fantastic.
In the 90's some bolted face routes went up and a guide was published.
Not sure about access now, it's been awhile.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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Seal Rock, the Bears etc is right above my house. Crack is great, but it has been getting trashed by partiers and now has access issues. I used to ride my mtb up there by sneaking into Emerald Heights and riding past the water tank. Best approach now (poaching) is from the east side. Tape is a good thing.
Hodges has some fun stuff. I noticed some bolts on a slab below the upper single track on the north side. Anyone know about that?
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Trevor
Gym climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
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Greg, I'll show you the stuff west of Lawrence Welk next time I'm in town. There's tons of stuff up there and never a soul around.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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This is all whetting my appetite something fierce. We're probably returning to San Diego later this year after 27 years away, and I can't wait to return to old circuits, and to develop some new ones.
BTW, yeah...Crest has some amazing boulders. Super clean and classic. I've also been shot at from below while bouldering (from way below), but that was years ago.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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The dirt parking area above the crags at Crest is private property and has been closed for years, which effectively shut down climbing there. I think its still legal to climb the rock, you just have to hump up to the crags from the base now.
Too bad, I really liked climbing there. You could park almost on top of the crags, and the rock at Crest has better holds than most rock in the county.
The guide was put out by a guy named Ross Janke, who did most of the bolting out there. Most, if not all it was rap bolted. Some of those bolted lines are really contrived, where youre not supposed to touch this or that, and on some you are expected to follow the bolts rather than the natural line.
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