Highlights of Yosemite Valley climbing 80's, 90's 00's?


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can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Nov 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
Billy Russel meeting the bad olive.

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Spring 1982: the term, Shitters, becomes synonymous with YOSAR!!

Trad climber
East Coast
Nov 23, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
Didn't Kim Carrigan (Australia) do something worthy. I forgot what.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Jim Bridwell and Mark Klemens FA of New Dimensions 5.10

Barry Bates FA of Five and Dime 5.10d
Pat Ament and Van Freeman FA West Face of Rixon's Pinnacle 5.10c
Tom Higgins FA Void, 5.11c
Jim Bridwell and Charley Jones FA Butterfingers 5.11a
Mark Klemens FA Cream 5.11
Peter Haan FA Left Side of the Hour Glass 5.11a

Barry Bates and Steve Wunsch FA New Dimensions 5.11
Steve Wunsch and Mark Chapman FFA La Esquela 5.11
Jim Bridwell first continuous ascent of Nabisco Wall

Henry Barber leads Nabisco Wall, New Dimensions, Midterm, on sight solo of Ahab
Henry Barber solos the Steck/Salathe
Henry Barber leads Butterballs
Jim Donini and TM Herbert FA Basket Case 5.11
Jim Donini FA Overhanging Overpass 5.12

Henry Barber, Ron Kauk and Steve Wunsch FA Hardd 5.11b
John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, John Long and Mike Graham FA of Free Blast 5.11b
Henry Barber FA of Fish Crack 5.12b
Ron Kauk and John Yablonsky FA Kauk-ulator 5.11c
Ron Kauk, John Bachar and John Long FFA of Astroman 5.11
Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay and John Long accomplish the Nose in a day
John Bachar and Ron Kauk FFA Hotline 5.12

John Bachar solos New Dimensions
Ray Jardine FA Crimson Cringe 5.12a
John Bachar and Ron Kauk climb Crimson Cringe
Ron Kauk first continuous ascent of Astroman
Jim Erickson and Art Higbee FFA of the Regular North West Face of Half Dome 5.12b
Phil Gleason FA of Coffin Nail 5.11+
John Long FFA of Chouinard-Herbert 5.11+

Ray Jardine and John Lakey FA of Separate Reality 5.12
John Lakey FFA of Owl Roof 5.12
Charlie Fowler solos Direct North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock
Ray Jardine and John Lakey FA of Phoenix 5.13
Ray Jardine frees the roof pitch on the Rostrum
Ron Kauk FA Tales of Power 5.12b

Ron Kauk climbs Separate Reality
Ron Kauk climbs Midnight Lightning
Peter Croft, Tammy Knight and Larry Zulim FA Pigs in Space 5.12

Ray Jardine and Bill Price FFA of West Face of El Capitan 5.11
Ray Jardine releases Friends for commercial distribution
Mark Hudon and Max Jones FFA Pegasus 5.11
Mark Hudon and Max Jones climb South Face of Mount Watkins with seven points of aid
Mark Hudon and Max Jones climb Salathe Wall eliminating much of the aid
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 12:02am PT
John Bachar solos Nabisco Wall: Waverly Wafer 5.10c, Butterballs 5.11c and Butterfingers 5.11a
Bill Price FA Cosmic Debris 5.13a
Tony Yaniro FA Alien 5.12c
Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, Scott Cole FA Hall of Mirrors 5.12c

Ron Kauk climbs Thriller
Alan Lester and Pat Adams climb Salathe Wall in one and a half day freeing more pitches than previous ascents

ohn Middendorf, Charles Coe and Rusty Reno FA of Autobahn, 5.11d
Kim Carrigan and Geoff Wigand FA of America's Cup, 5.12b
Kim Carrigan FFA linking the Rostrum, 5.12b
Todd Skinner FFA of Renegade (nee Stimga) 5.13b
Jerry Moffat and Ron Kauk FFA of Lost Arrow Spire, 5.12b
Peter Croft solos North Face of the Rostrum 5.11c
Peter Croft FFA of Crucifix 5.12b

John Bachar FA of Dale's Pin Job 5.13a
John Bachar FA of Phantom 5.13a
Werner Braun and Scott Cosgrove FA of Power Point 5.11c
Peter Croft and Hans Florine speed ascent of The Nose 4 hr 22 min.
John Bachar and Peter Croft climb The Nose and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in a day
Yuji Hirayama redpoints Phoenix and Cosmic Debris, 5.13a
Wolfgang Gullich solos Separate Reality 5.12

Trad climber
East Coast
Dec 11, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
Didn't John Long and Bob Gaines get the FFA of Lost Arrow Spire and Kauk/Moffat was the TV spectacular?

Thanks for compiling this awesome list, Ed.
KP Ariza

Dec 11, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
Winter of 1986 Ken Ariza beats Werner in a game of chess
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 11, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
1976 etc: MH plays chess with Werner, John B, wins a few games, probably loses more. No carrots were eaten.

Big Wall climber
Feb 18, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
This is purely egocentric crap but did, as far as anyone knows, anyone solo The Shield before 1987? Just curious really....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 18, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
Jim Beyers soloed the Shield in 78 or 79.

Big Wall climber
Feb 18, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Thanks Mark,

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 27, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
Cool list's Ed!

Eric is one of the most prolific climbers I know, with a stack of FA's that will make a hardman whimper, ha ha.

I’ve always thought first one day ascents on the Big Stone, is/was good fun. We can’t leave the 1975 ascent of The Nose out just because it doesn’t fit the thread title… they started it all. The time gaps and trends are interesting.

Here’s a list I compiled, it needs some buffing…

First One Day Ascents of El Cap:

The Nose: 18? - John Long, Billy Westbay & Jim Bridwell

West Buttress: 18:01 - Steve Schneider & Jeff Schoen

The Salathe: 14:01 - Steve Schneider & Rick Cashner
Zodiac: Sub 24 - Rick Cashner, Werner Braun & Kevin Fosburg

Eagles Way: 19:38 - Steve Gerberding, Troy Johnson, & Nadim Melkonian

The Shield: 23:09 - Kevin Fosburg & Rick Lovelace
Tangerine Trip: 18:34 - Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith & Scott Stowe

Triple Direct: 8:20 - Adam Wainwright & Rolo Garbotti
Tribal Rite: 23:33 - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston

Mirage: 20:02 - Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston, & Al Swanson
Bad Seed: 19:50 - Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston & Scott Stowe

Mr MidWest: 21:00 - Steve Bengston, Al Swanson, & Steve Gerberding
West Buttress: 20:08 - Kevin Thaw – solo
The Muir: 23:29 - Chris McNamara & Hans Florine
Lunar Eclipse: - 23:24 - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston
North America Wall: 21:48 - Mark Melvin, Conrad Anker, & Hans Florine

Water Fall Route: 18:28 - Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, & Hans Florine

Mescalito: 23:28 - Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra, & Russ Mitrovich
Aurora: 23:55 - Miles Smart & Brian McCray

Sunkist: 19:24 - Mark Melvin, Steve Schneider, & Hans Florine
Lost in America: 21:31 - Eric George, Russell Metrovich, & Leo Houlding
Shortest Straw: 17:52 - Russ Metrovich, Eric George, & Brett Dodds

Realm of the Flying Monkeys: 12:37 Chandlee Harrell & Greg Murphy

New Jersey Turnpike: 16:09 - Heather Baer, Hans Florine, & Steve Schneider
Plastic Surgery Disaster: 21:37 - Brian McCray & Ammon McNeely
Get Whacked: 12:49 - Ammon McNeely & Brain McCray

Dihedral Wall: 14:06 - Steve Gerberding & Hans Florine
Born Under a Bad Sign: 22:22 - Chris Van Luevan, Erik Walden & Ammon McNeely
Dark Star: 20:09 - Scott Cosgrove, Steve Gerberding, & Al Swanson

Atlantic Ocean Wall: 23:38 - Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray
Pressure Cooker: 23:41 Ammon McNeely & Ivo Ninov
Horse Chute: 20:39 Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely
Wall of the Early Morning Light: 23:43 Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray
Never Never Land:? 16:00:02 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeely

Zenyatta Mondatta: 22:56 - Kevin Jamarillo, Ivo Ninov, & Ammon McNeely

Native Son: 23:53 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely

On The Waterfront: 17:07 - Skiy Detray & Ammon McNeely
Lost World: 23:29 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely

Scorched Earth: 22:28 - Dave Allfrey, Ammon McNeely, & Skiy Detray

Dates/times unknown:

Aquarian Wall: 23+ Greg Murphy, Peter Coward, & Steve Schneider.
Lurking Fear: Scott Stowe & Kevin Fosburg (time & date?)
Grape Race: 23:? Steve Schneider and ?
New Dawn: 23:50 - Willie & Damian Benegas
Virginia: 23/24+? - Jamie Mundo, Eric Sloan & Dave Bainbridge, 2005 (no timing device)


The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 27, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
Arizas post reminded me of something: 1989, right-handed Walleye puts down lefty Ron Kauk arm wrasslin at the deli. Flint promptly gets the worst case of tennis elbow known to man and retires from the competitive arm wrasslin circuit forever.

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
In 69 Muir free-soloed Cathedral peak.. that's almost the seventies. 1870's

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Apr 28, 2013 - 12:16am PT
Maybe I missed it somewhere in all these posts, but what about Karma? Anything that's been around as long as that climb, and is "only" 5.11, and is still unrepeated (?), well that's a damn significant FA.

Trad climber
New River, AZ
Apr 28, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Dont care what you say- all elevens are hard -- period !!!
Messages 81 - 96 of total 96 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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