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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 7, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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What were the highlights of Yosemite Valley climbing in the decades of the 80's, 90's and 00's?
Lynn Hill frees the Nose and does it free in a day in the mid-90's
what else?
Eric Kohl's amazing aid lines?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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If you remember the 80's in yosemite, you weren't really there....
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Ed:
Bachar and Croft doing El Cap and Half Dome in a day sure has to be a highlight.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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freeing Salathé Wall
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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The Nose is less then 4 hours.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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first 5.13 1977 The Phoenix?
first 5.14?
first 5.15? (has there been?)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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Camp 4 in the National Register of Historic Places
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Munge gets back into aid, EPIC YO!
Bouldering goes off in the Valley and it becomes a destination for hordes that never tie into a rope. Camp 4 is no longer just a place to train for the bigger stone.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Complete ascent of Sentinel Falls, Walt & Kevin, 1988.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The law suit and related actions that saved Camp 4?
The start of Yosemite FaceLifts? (~ 2003)
The headline in the magazine "Yosemite Valley No Longer Centre of Climbing Universe, In Fact It Never Was!" (several occasions)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The English speaking world spells it "centre". Those who speak and write the US dialect spell it "center".
As for the proper pronunciation of "roof"...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 02:09am PT
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Hans Florine speed records
Tim O'Neill, Dean Potter 2000 triple linkup HD, EC & Mt. Watkins
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jeff Smoot's pathetic article "The Valley Syndrome" appears in print, 1986.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Half dome rescue 85'- first time the short haul technique was used in YOS I believe? The start what today is no short of "The BEST".
Gerby.
Tom at the Bridge.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Bachar-Yerian
1st Ascent of Swiller
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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seems like Rob Miller's Quantum mechanic might be included.....
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Tim O'Neill, Dean Potter 2000 triple linkup HD, EC & Mt. Watkins
Really? I hadn't heard about that one.
Dang!
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Gene
climber
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Tommy C Nose and Freerider free IAD.
Alex free solos RNWFHD.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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One for Kevin, albeit off topic.
A friend in Norway sent it - not sure of the source.
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WBraun
climber
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Highlights of Yosemite Valley climbing 80's, 90's 00's
Yosemite is the center of the Universe.
Everyone comes here but not everyone goes everywhere .....
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Warbler's description above defies imagination.
Caldwell doing the Nose and the Freerider in a day, just so wild.
Caldwell frees Dihedral Wall.
Rodden frees the Nose.
Rodden sends Meltdown, Valley's hardest?
Potter free-soloing Heaven, nothing like that had been done (b/c AH hadn't shown up yet).
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Not a particular event, but an entire season...musta been about '99 or 2000 when the speed walls thing took off. Probably half the existing El Cap time records got smashed that season, and everyone seemed to be in on it, not just a team or two.
Before that, short fixing and IAD pushes were rare.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Each decade will produce its own masterpieces, perhaps one, perhaps several. Many of the feats mentioned above are described in the latest book from the Stonemasters' Press, "The Valley Climbers--Yosemite's Vertical Revolution". I haven't finished it yet, as I am rationing myself to one or two articles a day. My favourite so far is not a success story, but a glorious failure. Hank Caylor's three paragraph tale of the attempted second ascent of Southern Belle, and his fall is classic. "Then I pitched", says it all. His police mug-shot on the opposite page must be another great story. Anyone?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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* Girdle traverse of El Cap
* flash of Midnight Lightning
* freeing Southern Belle
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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One of the lowlights certainly has to be the opening of a pizza and beer joint over at Curry Village.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 04:28am PT
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how about this for the 2000's
El Cap "Cragging" Tommy Caldwell FFA's on El Cap,
Justen Song and Rob Miller preMuir Wall 5.13d
Dean Potter sends King Air
second free ascent of Southern Belle by Leo Holding and Dean Potter
Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov speed climbing Native Son,
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov ground up FA of Lost in Transletion (V 5.12b/c)
Ammon McNeeley, Ivo Ninov, Dean Potter speed ascent of Reticent Wall
Ally Dorey is 4th female to send Midnight Lightening
Tommy Caldwell links Freerider and The Nose in a day
Step Davis first female free ascent of Salathé Wall
Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden team free ascent of The Nose
Nico Favresse FA of L'Appât (VI 5.13a/b)
Dean Potter sends Sasquatch
Hiedi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum set all women's speed records on RNWF, The Nose and WFLT
Steph Davis free climbs Free Rider in a day
Tommy Caldwell FFA of Dihedral Wall
Alex and Thomas Huber FA of Zodiac
Steph Davis sends Cosmic Debris
Dean Potter enchainment RNWF and Free Rider in a day
Yuji Hirayama speed ascent of Salathé Wall
Cedar Wright and Jake Whittaker FA of Psychedelic Wall (V 5.13R)
Tommy Caldwell one day free ascent of Salathé Wall
Rob Miller FA Quantum Mechanics
Alex Huber FA Crosstown Traffic
Lisa Rands sends Thriller
Alex Huber FA El Corazón
Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neil set Nose speed record
Tommy Caldwell FFA of Muir Wall
Lisa Rands sends Midnight Lightning
Alex and Thomas Hubber FA of Golden Gate
Jim Zellers snow boards Half Dome
Tommy Caldwell free ascent of Salathé Wall
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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For me, aside from Caldwell's two-in-a-day thing, Yuji's near onsight was a bigger achievement than anything on that list.
And "4th female ascent"...really? That's noteworthy?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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I'm working on the aid climbing... but the whole point of posting here is to get input (so I don't have to impose my opinion on the narrative through my research methodology)... I guess that's a pretty indirect request for help
...and I do believe that the first four or five ascents of Midnight Lightning is well known and recited...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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more for the 00's
Alex Hannold free solos Crucifix
Beth Rodden completes Meltdown 5.14c
Alex Hannold free solos RNWF
Dean Potter free solos Heaven 5.13a
Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong FA of Magic Mushroom
Nico Favresse and Sean Vilanueva FA The Secret Passage 5.13c
Jeremy Collins, Dana Drummond and Mikey Schaefer FA Border Country 5.12c
from
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1278738
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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How about style shifts...not just the big assents?
Aliens
Hybrid Aliens
Bouldering guides, pads, and people traveling half-way around the world just to climb the Valley's smallest rocks.
Being rad = a paying job (did anyone get paid to climb...not guide...in the 70's?)
Rope jumping, slacklining, links and solos with BASE rigs, and other climber stunts go to the next (several) level(s).
Mini-traxions
Lycra > Beanies > ??? what is the gotta have accessory now? A sleeve? A yoga mat? Lycra?
Foreign climbers' accomplishments are somewhat underrepresented based on popular Taco vote (IMO).
A lowlight would be losing Todd Skinner, but it seems like an important entry in a big-wall-free-climbs-centered timeline.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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klaus,
> I guess aid climbing doesn't really count. oh well
I'd be interested to see what you think have been the most interesting aid climbs done since, say, 1986.
As others have mentioned, the one-day or longer single push ascents have been a definite new development.
Development of Yosemite Falls Wall and Porcelain Wall has been another.
Clean ascents?
Any significant new gear/techniques besides beaks?
(Sorry if I'm semi-clueless).
There have been some significant repeats of older climbs, but I'm not sure how those weight in. Shouldn't the original FAs count higher?
I liked the cool trip reports from Neil Chelton who did some very hard repeats recently.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Continental-Drifting/t11224n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-Shortest-Straw/t11059n.html
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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For Big scary Aid routes i would say..
Native Son
Shortest Straw
All the Eric Kohl routes...
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WBraun
climber
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Klaus is definitely up there as one of the biggest highlights.
Electrifying radical free climbing FA's along with his trademark terrifying aid wall FA's all make the rest of these poseurs piss in their pants .....
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bp
Trad climber
Placerville, Ca
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creation of supertopo.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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I'd say Honnold's free solo of Heaven, having never been on the route, is definitely noteworthy. He did get beta from Mason as he climbed it on a rope immediately before, but still, seems as big an achievement as anything else he's soloed.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey Werner, do you have any idea what these guys are talking about? Are 80's, 90's and 00s, like 5.80,5.90,5.00s? Are there a,b,c,d subdivisions?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I think free'ing two Grade VI's on El Cap in sub-24 hours is fairly noteworthy ...
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WBraun
climber
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Roger
80's, 90's and 00's means the years 1980's 1990's 2000's , and so on.
Just more stupid mundane climbing drool for these fanatics ......
:-)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey Werner, you know you are old and over the hill when you make a joke and someone with a concerned look gently touches your arm and explains reality to you in a slow, steady voice.
I think it is funny that this service is provided by one of my contemporaries. Want to move to Cleveland, Werner? I have a full time job offer for you.
I know that you are kidding about "mundane climbing:" This list is anything but.
Elcapinyoazz, what is the story behind the season when bigwall speed climbing took off?
Melissa, in answer to your question about getting paid to climb in the 70s, I think the answer is no, no one got paid to climb, at least no Yosemite climbers (I think this started in the 80s). Guiding became more prevalent in the 70s. A few folks made a little money working in movies on stunts or rigging. A few made money publishing or presenting--not much money in presenting. A few worked making gear.
Does anyone know the details of the first paid climbers; who was first (Bachar?) and what products/companies? George Meyers told me a few years ago, but I cannot remember anything about the details except that he thought, at the time, the compensation was unsustainable.
Ed, are you planning to organize this is to something?
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Leo Holding's Prophet should be on the list and I am told it is very bad ass runout old school for a modern route
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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I think what Ed is looking for is information for the "History" section for the upcoming Yosemite Guidebook. If you think there is something that should be in that section of a guidebook then offer up.
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Double D
climber
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Randy Leavitt's Book of Hate... has it even seen a second?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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imagine updating this history:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=655407&msg=659915#msg659915
a continuation from about 1986/1987, probably relooking at the 80's just to make sure it jibes with what is in the guide....
certainly there is room for Melissa's "style change"
and there should be much more about aid... and the wild path of its evolution
The 00's were pretty amazing,
I'll be getting to the 90's, sometime next week I reckon...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aid gear...I have to wonder if w/o hybrids some places would have turned into such flaring holes that they'd be bolted by now? And even though I saw their invention as dating to the 70's, did cam hooks come into use before the 80's? Ball nuts/sliders?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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here are a list of aid climbs done in the 00's (some FA dates are not known... if you know them be a champ and tell us!)
2000
High Line VI 5.10r A4 FA Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright
Laughing at the Void VI 5.7 A2+ FA Jerry, Sigrid, and Lynnea Anderson
Renaissance Wall VI 5.9 A3 FA Bob Gaines, Alan Bartlett
Operation Bravo V 5.9 A3 FA Bryan Kay, Jonathan Blair
2001
Known Offender V 5.11b A3+ FA Ammon McNeely, Jennifer Kelly
2002
Endangered Species VI 5.8 A4+ FA Jon Blair, Mark Garbarini
Age of Exploration V 5.9 A3+ FA Brian Kay, Josh Thompson.
Tora Bora VI 5.9 A3+ FA Josh Thompson, Brian Kay
Reign in Blood VI A5 FA. Eric Kohl
Quo Vadis VI 5.9 A4+ FA Jacek Czyz
The Twisted Road VI 5.12 FA Paul Turecki, Kristen Kremer, Greg Collins
In Justice For All VI A5 FA Eric Kohl
Martyr's Brigade VI 5.11 A5+ FA Jim Beyer
2003
Sticky Rice VI 5.6 A4 FA Kibum Lee, Kipum Kim
High Life V 5.9 A3+ FA Bryan Kay, Josh Thompson, Jamie Mundo
2004
New Age V 5.8 A3 FA Josh Thompson, Jamie Mundo
Mythenthropic Execution IV 5.8 A3 FA Josh Thompson, Bryan Law
Voices of the Drowned IV 5.8 A2 FA Jamie Mundo, Josh Thompson
2005
Resisting Arrest V 5.8 A3 FA Jamie Mundo, Josh Thompson
Great Southern Trend Kill VI 5.10 A3+ FA Jamie Mundo, Josh Thompson
Block Party VI 5.9 A4+ FA Dave Turner
Atlantis VI 5.8 A4+ FA Dave Turner
2006
The Crucible VI 5.9 A3+ FA Bryan Kay, Josh Thompson, Mark Garbarini
2010
Scarface V 5.8 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Josh Mucci
???
Prowd VI A3 FA Bryan Law
Psychedelic Shack VI 5.10 A3+ FA ?
The Vodka Putsch VI 5.10 A4 FA ? Bill Russell, Pete Takeda
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Dr.Knox
Trad climber
Salzburg, Austria
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1986 Wolfgang Gullich free solos Seperate Reality
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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parking lot KO's?
Cameron free solo of that wide thing?
Skinner/Pianna on Salathe?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Has anyone mentioned the 1982 Wings of Steel crapdown?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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I remember running into Bachar at the Mountain Room bar after his free solo on Cookie - "HFS!"
(HFS = Holy F*#king Shit)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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BVB and the Evil Ex score their dream house in El Portal, 1987:
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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some Yosemite highlights from the 1990s, have at it!
1990
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz climb the Rostrum, The West Face of El Capitan, Crucifix and Astroman
Peter Croft solos Steck-Salathé, N.Butt. Middle Cathedral, Royal Arches, Regular Route North Dome, and Arrowhead Arête
Hidetak Suzuki FA Van Belle Syndrome, 5.13c
Ron Kauk FA Crossroads 5.13a
Dave Schultz FA Meat Grinder Arête 5.13b
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz speed ascent of The Nose (6h40m)
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz speed ascent of Salathé Wall (10h6m)
1991
Peter Croft repeats Van Belle Syndrome, 5.13c
Scott Cosgrove FA Black Fly, 5.13b
Hans Florine and Steve Schneider speed ascent of the Nose (8h5m)
Hans Florine and Andy Puhvel speed ascent of the Nose (6h3m)
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz speed ascent of the Nose (4h40m)
Scott Burke FA Shockwave 5.13b
Jerry Moffatt FA The Force V9
1993
Ed Barry FA Whipcord 5.13c
Jerry Moffatt FA Dominator V12
Peter Croft and Hans Florine speed ascent of the Nose (4h22m)
Hans Florine roped solo ascent of the Nose (14h)
Steve Schneider, Bill Price and Jeff Schoen attempt FFA of Excaliber
Todd Skinner and many others FFA Direct Northwest Face of Half Dome 5.13d
Lynn Hill FFA of The Nose 5.13b
1994
Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove, Greg Epperson attempt FFA of Muir Wall, cited for power drilling
Lynn Hill free ascent of The Nose in a day (23h)
Steve Schneider and Hans Florine climb The Nose, Lurking Fear and West Face of El Capitan in a day.
Dave Schultz, Scott Franklin, Jason Karn attempt FFA of North American Wall/New Jersey Turnpike
Dave Schultz, Scott Franklin, Jason Karn attempt second free ascent of Salathé Wall
Alan Lester and Pete Takeda attempt FFA of Dihedral Wall
Steve Schneider, Bill Price, Jeff Schoen, Alan Lester attempt FFA of Lurking Fear
Hank Caylor and Alan Lester attempt second free ascent of Southern Belle
Rolando Garibotti and Jon Rosemengy speed ascent of Lurking Fear (13h)
Rolando Garibotti and Adam Wainwright speed ascent of Tripple Direct (8h20m)
Rolando Garibotti and Adam Wainwright speed ascent of The Shield (18h20m)
Rolando Garibotti and Rob Slater speed ascent of The Nose (5h48m)
Steve Schneider and Jeff Schoen speed ascent of West Buttress of El Cap (18h1m)
Steve Schneider, Scott Stowe and Lance Allred speed ascent of Chinese Water Torture (17h15m)
Steve Schneider and Mark Deger speed ascent of Dihedral Wall (27h38m)
Kevin Thaw and Adam Wainright FFA Direct North Face of Sentinel (V 5.12a)
1995
Alex Huber free climbs all the pitches of Salathé Wall
climbers from Prescott College volunteer cleanup on The Nose
Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston, Brian Guizot speed ascent of Diehedral Wall (less than 24h)
Scott Stowe, Steve Gerberding and Dave Bengston speed ascent of The Shortest Straw (24h43m)
Joe Terravechia and Peter Coward climb The Nose and RNWF in a day
Andy Puhvel speed solos The Prow (9h)
Hans Florine and Peter Coward speed ascent of Zodiac (10h57m)
Hans Florine solo speed ascent of WFLT (5h56m)
Chris and Morgan McNamara climb Zodiac (youngest to do it 16 and 13)
Bob Gaines and Scott Cosgrove FA How The West Was Won V,5.12b
Hans Florine, Peter Coward and Steve Schneider speed ascent of Son Of Heart (29h24m)
Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe and Dave Bengston speed ascent Pacific Ocean Wall (36h24m)
Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe and Dave Bengston speed ascent The Bad Seed (19h58m)
Steve Schneider, Mark Deger and Kevin Thaw speed ascent of Horse Chute (27h7m)
Conrad Anker, Topher Gaylord and Steve Schneider speed ascent of Wet Denim Daydream (less than 24h)
1996
Christian Zenz and Christian Wassertheurer charged for rescue off El Cap for being ill equipped
huge rock fall on GPA
Peter Coward and Hans Florine climb RNWF and DNWF in a day
Greg Murphy and Chan Harrell speed ascent of RNWF (3h24m)
Hans Florine and Peter Coward speed ascent of RNWF (3h1m)
Hans Florine, Mark Melvin and Conrad Anker speed ascent of North American Wall (21h48m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Al Swanson speed ascent of Mr. Midwest (21h)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of Iron Hawk (33h50m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of Lost in America (26h55m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of Lunar Eclipse (23h24m)
Conrad Anker, Scott Stowe and Dave Bengston speed ascent of Mirage (20h2m)
Erik Weihenmayer climbs The Nose, first blind ascent
Abby Watkins and Vera Wong speed ascent of The Nose (16h30m)
Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt speed ascent of The Nose (17h40m)
Lou Renner and Matt Brooks FA Galactic Hitchhiker VI, 511a/b
Jared Ogden and Rob Miller speed ascent of the RNWF (17h)
1997
Aischann Rupp eight 1 day ascents of Salathé Wall
Aischann Rupp and Silvo Karo speed ascent of the DNWF (11h20m)
Yuji Hirayama free ascent of Salathé Wall (38h)
Ron Kauk FA Magic Line (5.14b)
Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt speed ascent of Salathé Wall (30h)
Yosemite Valley largest flood in recorded history
Dougald McDonald and Chris McNamara clean ascent of North American Wall
Dave Dyess and A.C. Robertson clean ascent of Mescalito
Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott and Chris Kalous second ascent of Reticent Wall
Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott and Chris McNamara speed ascent Lost in America (24h47m)
Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe speed ascent of New Jersey Turnpike (24h48m)
Jared Ogden, Cameron Lawson, Willie and Damian Benegas speed ascent of Atlantic Ocean Wall (50h)
Kevin Thaw and Chris Kalous second ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster
Peter Coward, Steve Schneider and Hans Florine speed ascent of Eagle's Way (14h27m)
Sylvia Vidal and Pep Masip FA Saraganta VI,5.9 A4
Eric Kohl FA Cluster F*#k 2000
1998
Lynn Hill climbs Midnight Lightning V8
Dean Potter and Rick Cashner FFA South Central 5.12 R
Dean Potter and Rick Cashner FFA of p1 Silent Line 5.13
Alex and Thomas Huber FA El Niño (VI 5.13c, A0)
Scott Burke free climbs every pitch of The Nose
Leo Holding and Patrick Hammond second ascent of El Niño
Alex and Thomas Huber FFA Freerider 5.12d
Dean Potter solo the RNWF (4h16m)
Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke FA Disorderly Conduct VI 5.9 A3+
Miles Smart and Brian McMillan speed ascent of Aurora (23h55m)
1999
Hans Florine and Nancy Feagin climb The Nose and RNWF in a day
Chris McNamara and Mark Melvins girdle traverse of El Capitan
Tommy Caldwell frees Salathé Wall
Chris Sharma second ascent of Excellent Adventure 5.13b/c
Dean Potter and José Pereya speed ascent of Salathé Wall
Dean Potter solo of the RNWF and the Nose in a day (23h)
Hans Florine solo of the RNWF and the Nose in a day (20h40m)
Dean Potter and Steph Davis speed ascent of the RNWF (3h45m)
Dean Potter solo Blind Faith 5.11d
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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what happened in 1992?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 11, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
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Scott Burke free climbs every pitch of The Nose
You actually believe that?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 11, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
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Scott Burk - no "e".
Edit: Leo's e-mail is "leo_burk@..." Although it's commonly spelt Burke, apparently not in this case.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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I didn't say "lead free" every pitch...
thanks for checking the detail...
and I thought it had an "e" Anders...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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1987
Peter Croft solos Astroman
Peter Croft FA Excellent Adventure 5.13c
Peter Croft climbs Cosmic Debris
Peter Croft solos Fish Crack
Kurt Smith and Scott Cosgrove FA Cookie Monster 5.12a
Kurt Smith and Dave Hattchel FA General Dynamics 5.13a
Scott Burke and Jeff Folett FA Tour de Force 5.12b
Steve Schneider and Romain Vogler climb The Nose and West Face of El Cap in a day
Scott Cosgrove FA Machine Gun 5.13c
Hidetaka Suzuki FA Title Fight 5.13a
Hidetaka Suzuki FA Casablanca 5.13a
Stefan Glowacz attempts FFA of Salathé Wall
Walt Shipley and Dave Schultz FA Southern Belle 5.11 A0
Randy Leavitt and Rob Slater FA Scorched Earth VI 5.11 A5
Walt Shipley and Troy Johnson FA Native Sun A4+
John Barbella and Eric Brandt FA Heartland
1988
Ron Kauk FA Punchline 5.12b resulting ethics/style debate leads to Camp 4 fist fight between Mark Chapman and John Bachar
Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg FA of complete Sentinel Falls ice
Kurt Smith and Ken Ariza FA Keeper of the Flame 5.13a
Todd Skinner and Paul Piana FFA Salathé Wall
Dave Schultz and Scott Cosgrove FFA Southern Belle V 5.12b
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 02:43am PT
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potentially SuperTopoForum could be a place to review the important Yosemite accomplishments since 2002(?)
but how to actually mine the data?
anyone got any ideas?
probably the most straight forward would be to create a topic at the end of the year "Yosemite Highlights for xxxx" and have it out in the classic Forum style
but for now, I'm going to have to do some bit-diving to extract it... which is not all bad...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 01:44am PT
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Yos Big Wall Routes 1987 - 1999
1987
Luminescent Wall VI 5.10b A4 FA Walt Shipley, John Barbella
Native Son VI 5.9 A4 FA Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson
Scorched Earth VI 5.11 A4 FA Rob Slater, Randy Leavitt
The Big Chill VI 5.9 A4 FA Jim Bridwell, Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett...
Heartland VI 5.10 A4+ FA Eric Brand, John Barbella
1988
Turkey Shoot V 5.9 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Ken Yager
Octopussy VI 5.9 A3+ FA Dan and Sue McDevitt
Central Scrutinizer VI 5.11c A4+ FA Steve Grossman, Jay Ladin
White Room VI 5.10 A4 FA Walt Shipley, Sean Plunkett
Waterfall Wall VI 5.9 A4+ FA Rick Sylvester, Chauncey Parker
Via sin Liquor VI 5.9 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Alan Humphrey
Horni-Johnson VI 5.7 A3+ FA Jeff Hornibrook, Troy Johnson
Bad Seed VI 5.9 A4 FA Bill Russell, Troy Johnson
Love Without Anger V 5.8 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Rich Albuschkat
1989
Genesis VI 5.10 A4 FA Doug Englekirk, Eric Brand,
Dante's Inferno VI 5.9 A3 FA Eric Kohl
High Plains Dripper VI 5.11 A5 FA Eric Kohl, Alan Humphrey
Bananarama V 5.10a A3 FA Rich Albuschkat, Steve Bosque, Murray...
The Promised Land VI 5.10 A4 FA. Troy Johnson, Jeff Hornibrook, Kevin Fosburg...
The Jet Stream VI 5.9 A4 FA Sean Plunkett, Bill Russell
Flashback V 5.8 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Rich Albuschkat
Kali Yuga VI 5.10 A4 FA John Middendorf, Walt Shipley
Wheel of Torture VI 5.7 A4 FA Eric Kohl
Aqua Vulva VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl, John Middendorf
Toxic Waste Dump VI 5.8 A3+ FA Eric Kohl
Shadows VI A5 FA Jim Bridwell, Cito Kirkpatrick, Charlie Row, Billy...
Reach for the Sky VI 5.11 A4+ FA Jim Beyer
1990
Re-Animator VI 5.8 A3+ FA Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl
Shortest Straw VI 5.7 A4 FA Rick Lovelace
Surgeon General VI 5.9 A5 FA Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl
Ice Age VI 5.8 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Pressure Cooker VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl
Saddam Hussein VI 5.9 A4 FA Eric Brand, Stewart Irving
Hole World VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl
1991
Plastic Surgery Disaster VI 5.8 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Reckless Abandon VI 5.8 A4+ FA Eric Kohl
Crystal Cyclone VI 5.7 A4+ FA Eric Kohl
Winds of Change VI 5.10 A5 FA Richard Jensen
World of Pain VI 5.8 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Hole in the Sky VI 5.10b A3 FA Kevin Fosburg, Paul Turecki
Solar Power Arete VI 5.10a A3+ FA Kevin Fosburg, Paul Turecki
1992
Electric Ocean VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl
Get Whacked VI 5.10 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Escape from Freedom VI 5.11c A1 FA Urmas Franosch, Bruce Morris
Virginia VI 5.7 A3 FA Chuck Clance, Steve Bosque
The Prism VI 5.10 A3+ FA Urmas Franosch, Sean Plunkett
Jesus Built My Hotrod VI 5.7 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Eric Rasmussen
Southern Man V 5.8 A1 or C2+F FA Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat
Lost Again VI 5.10 A3+ FA Eric Kohl
1993
Seido VI 5.10 A4 FA October 1993. Seidou Urano
Flight of the Albatross VI 5.8 A3 FA May 1993. Jon Middendorf, Will Ox
Kaos VI 5.7 A4+ FA April 1993. Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston
Tempest VI 5.8 A4+ FA June 1993. Brad Jarrett, Jeff Hornibrook, Cade Lloyd
Express Checkout VI 5.8 A5 FA 1993. Eric Kohl
Ashes to Ashes V A4 FA August 1993. Eric Rasmussen, Chris Purnell
1994
Afroman VI 5.6 A3+ FA Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Carpenter
1995
When Hell Was in Session VI 5.9 A5 FA Eric Kohl, Pete Takeda
Reason Beyond Insanity VI 5.7 A3+ FA Sean Easton, Dave Sheldon
Reticent Wall VI 5.7 A5 FA Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Laurie...
1996
Ring of Fire VI 5.10 A5 FA Mark Smith, Richard Jensen
Hole in the Head VI 5.7 A3 FA Jeff Benowitz, Rick Carlton Studley III
Abstract Expressionist VI A5 FA Eric Kohl
1997
Blue Shift VI 5.11c A4 FA Jay Smith, Karl McConachie
Hurricane Jingus VI 5.9 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Bryan Law
Una Iglesia en el Cielo V 5.6 A4+ FA Chris McNamara, Chris Ewing
Cool Blood VI 5.8 A5 FA Gabor Berecz, Thomas Tlvadar
Sargantana VI 5.9 A4 FA Sylvia Vidal, Pep Mesip
...A Sad State of Affairs V 5.7 A3 FA Eric Rasmussen, Mike Zawaski
Continental Drift VI 5.10 A4 FA Steve Gerberding, Kevin Thaw, Conrad Anker...
1998
Disorderly Conduct VI 5.9 A5 FA Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke...
Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys VI 5.9 A5 FA Jim Bridwell, Tyson Hausdoerffer, Boulos Ayad...
Sky is Falling VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Bryan Law
Nightmare on California Street VI 5.8 A5 FA Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner
Ned's Excellent Adventure VI 5.10 A4+ FA Bryan Law, Warren Hollinger
Girdle Traverse VI 5.10a A4 FA Chris McNamara, Mark Melvin
El Nino VI 5.13c A0 FA Alex and Thomas Huber
Highway to Hell VI 5.9 A5 FA Gabor Berecz, Thomas Tivadar
1999
Life on the Dark Side V 5.7 A3x FA Ammon McNeely, Bryan Law
Every Man for Himself VI A4 FA Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Mark Bowling
Gulf Stream VI 5.9 A5 FA June Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith, John Harpole
Solitary Confinement VI FA Eric George
White Trash Vacation VI FA Eric George, Eric Coomer
Strange World VI 5.8 A4 FA Bryan Law, Eric George
Allied Forces VI 5.9 A3 FA Steve Gerberding, Al Swanson, Mark Bowling,..
Dark Star VI 5.10 A5 FA Jim Bridwell, Groaz Giavanni
????
Prowd VI A3 FA Bryan Law
The Vodka Putsch VI 5.10 A4 FA Bill Russell, Pete Takeda
Cataclysmic Megasheer V 5.11d A2 FA
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:13am PT
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70's climbed my first pitch ever - sunnyside bench jamcrack
80's led every pitch on astroman clean
90's did lap 500 on short circuit
2000's leading sunnyside bench jamcrack
That about sums it up, thanks.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:45am PT
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Ed,
1996
Jared Ogden and Rob Miller speed ascent of the RNWF (17h) Typo?
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Mar 15, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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1987:
I soloed The Shield. Shared a beer and a Camel cigg with Mr Middendorf and Co and hid from rangers, collecting tin cans for 5c each and generally acting like the perfect climbing bum. But I smelt real bad! (for around 3 months only though)
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 23, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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bup...
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 23, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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80's, 90's 00's are all dead now ya rope hanging cardboard carrot eatin slackers.
Ya all need to grab a shovel and start growing nice juicy carrots again before we all fall off the cliff of stupidity ..... :-)
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Nov 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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Billy Russel meeting the bad olive.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Spring 1982: the term, Shitters, becomes synonymous with YOSAR!!
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Nov 23, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Didn't Kim Carrigan (Australia) do something worthy. I forgot what.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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1970
Jim Bridwell and Mark Klemens FA of New Dimensions 5.10
1971
Barry Bates FA of Five and Dime 5.10d
Pat Ament and Van Freeman FA West Face of Rixon's Pinnacle 5.10c
Tom Higgins FA Void, 5.11c
Jim Bridwell and Charley Jones FA Butterfingers 5.11a
Mark Klemens FA Cream 5.11
Peter Haan FA Left Side of the Hour Glass 5.11a
1972
Barry Bates and Steve Wunsch FA New Dimensions 5.11
Steve Wunsch and Mark Chapman FFA La Esquela 5.11
Jim Bridwell first continuous ascent of Nabisco Wall
1973
Henry Barber leads Nabisco Wall, New Dimensions, Midterm, on sight solo of Ahab
Henry Barber solos the Steck/Salathe
Henry Barber leads Butterballs
Jim Donini and TM Herbert FA Basket Case 5.11
Jim Donini FA Overhanging Overpass 5.12
1975
Henry Barber, Ron Kauk and Steve Wunsch FA Hardd 5.11b
John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, John Long and Mike Graham FA of Free Blast 5.11b
Henry Barber FA of Fish Crack 5.12b
Ron Kauk and John Yablonsky FA Kauk-ulator 5.11c
Ron Kauk, John Bachar and John Long FFA of Astroman 5.11
Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay and John Long accomplish the Nose in a day
John Bachar and Ron Kauk FFA Hotline 5.12
1976
John Bachar solos New Dimensions
Ray Jardine FA Crimson Cringe 5.12a
John Bachar and Ron Kauk climb Crimson Cringe
Ron Kauk first continuous ascent of Astroman
Jim Erickson and Art Higbee FFA of the Regular North West Face of Half Dome 5.12b
Phil Gleason FA of Coffin Nail 5.11+
John Long FFA of Chouinard-Herbert 5.11+
1977
Ray Jardine and John Lakey FA of Separate Reality 5.12
John Lakey FFA of Owl Roof 5.12
Charlie Fowler solos Direct North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock
Ray Jardine and John Lakey FA of Phoenix 5.13
Ray Jardine frees the roof pitch on the Rostrum
Ron Kauk FA Tales of Power 5.12b
1978
Ron Kauk climbs Separate Reality
Ron Kauk climbs Midnight Lightning
Peter Croft, Tammy Knight and Larry Zulim FA Pigs in Space 5.12
1979
Ray Jardine and Bill Price FFA of West Face of El Capitan 5.11
Ray Jardine releases Friends for commercial distribution
Mark Hudon and Max Jones FFA Pegasus 5.11
Mark Hudon and Max Jones climb South Face of Mount Watkins with seven points of aid
Mark Hudon and Max Jones climb Salathe Wall eliminating much of the aid
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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1980
John Bachar solos Nabisco Wall: Waverly Wafer 5.10c, Butterballs 5.11c and Butterfingers 5.11a
Bill Price FA Cosmic Debris 5.13a
Tony Yaniro FA Alien 5.12c
Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, Scott Cole FA Hall of Mirrors 5.12c
1984
Ron Kauk climbs Thriller
Alan Lester and Pat Adams climb Salathe Wall in one and a half day freeing more pitches than previous ascents
1985
ohn Middendorf, Charles Coe and Rusty Reno FA of Autobahn, 5.11d
Kim Carrigan and Geoff Wigand FA of America's Cup, 5.12b
Kim Carrigan FFA linking the Rostrum, 5.12b
Todd Skinner FFA of Renegade (nee Stimga) 5.13b
Jerry Moffat and Ron Kauk FFA of Lost Arrow Spire, 5.12b
Peter Croft solos North Face of the Rostrum 5.11c
Peter Croft FFA of Crucifix 5.12b
1986
John Bachar FA of Dale's Pin Job 5.13a
John Bachar FA of Phantom 5.13a
Werner Braun and Scott Cosgrove FA of Power Point 5.11c
Peter Croft and Hans Florine speed ascent of The Nose 4 hr 22 min.
John Bachar and Peter Croft climb The Nose and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in a day
Yuji Hirayama redpoints Phoenix and Cosmic Debris, 5.13a
Wolfgang Gullich solos Separate Reality 5.12
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 11, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Didn't John Long and Bob Gaines get the FFA of Lost Arrow Spire and Kauk/Moffat was the TV spectacular?
Thanks for compiling this awesome list, Ed.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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Winter of 1986 Ken Ariza beats Werner in a game of chess
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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1976 etc: MH plays chess with Werner, John B, wins a few games, probably loses more. No carrots were eaten.
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Feb 18, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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This is purely egocentric crap but did, as far as anyone knows, anyone solo The Shield before 1987? Just curious really....
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 18, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Jim Beyers soloed the Shield in 78 or 79.
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Feb 18, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Thanks Mark,
Steve
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 27, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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Cool list's Ed!
Eric is one of the most prolific climbers I know, with a stack of FA's that will make a hardman whimper, ha ha.
I’ve always thought first one day ascents on the Big Stone, is/was good fun. We can’t leave the 1975 ascent of The Nose out just because it doesn’t fit the thread title… they started it all. The time gaps and trends are interesting.
Here’s a list I compiled, it needs some buffing…
First One Day Ascents of El Cap:
1975:
The Nose: 18? - John Long, Billy Westbay & Jim Bridwell
1988:
West Buttress: 18:01 - Steve Schneider & Jeff Schoen
1989:
The Salathe: 14:01 - Steve Schneider & Rick Cashner
Zodiac: Sub 24 - Rick Cashner, Werner Braun & Kevin Fosburg
1990:
Eagles Way: 19:38 - Steve Gerberding, Troy Johnson, & Nadim Melkonian
1991:
The Shield: 23:09 - Kevin Fosburg & Rick Lovelace
Tangerine Trip: 18:34 - Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith & Scott Stowe
1994:
Triple Direct: 8:20 - Adam Wainwright & Rolo Garbotti
Tribal Rite: 23:33 - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston
1995:
Mirage: 20:02 - Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston, & Al Swanson
Bad Seed: 19:50 - Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston & Scott Stowe
1996:
Mr MidWest: 21:00 - Steve Bengston, Al Swanson, & Steve Gerberding
West Buttress: 20:08 - Kevin Thaw – solo
The Muir: 23:29 - Chris McNamara & Hans Florine
Lunar Eclipse: - 23:24 - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston
North America Wall: 21:48 - Mark Melvin, Conrad Anker, & Hans Florine
1997:
Water Fall Route: 18:28 - Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, & Hans Florine
1998:
Mescalito: 23:28 - Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra, & Russ Mitrovich
Aurora: 23:55 - Miles Smart & Brian McCray
1999:
Sunkist: 19:24 - Mark Melvin, Steve Schneider, & Hans Florine
Lost in America: 21:31 - Eric George, Russell Metrovich, & Leo Houlding
Shortest Straw: 17:52 - Russ Metrovich, Eric George, & Brett Dodds
2000:
Realm of the Flying Monkeys: 12:37 Chandlee Harrell & Greg Murphy
2001:
New Jersey Turnpike: 16:09 - Heather Baer, Hans Florine, & Steve Schneider
Plastic Surgery Disaster: 21:37 - Brian McCray & Ammon McNeely
Get Whacked: 12:49 - Ammon McNeely & Brain McCray
2002:
Dihedral Wall: 14:06 - Steve Gerberding & Hans Florine
Born Under a Bad Sign: 22:22 - Chris Van Luevan, Erik Walden & Ammon McNeely
Dark Star: 20:09 - Scott Cosgrove, Steve Gerberding, & Al Swanson
2004:
Atlantic Ocean Wall: 23:38 - Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray
Pressure Cooker: 23:41 Ammon McNeely & Ivo Ninov
Horse Chute: 20:39 Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely
Wall of the Early Morning Light: 23:43 Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray
Never Never Land:? 16:00:02 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeely
2005:
Zenyatta Mondatta: 22:56 - Kevin Jamarillo, Ivo Ninov, & Ammon McNeely
2006:
Native Son: 23:53 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely
2009:
On The Waterfront: 17:07 - Skiy Detray & Ammon McNeely
Lost World: 23:29 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely
2011:
Scorched Earth: 22:28 - Dave Allfrey, Ammon McNeely, & Skiy Detray
Dates/times unknown:
Aquarian Wall: 23+ Greg Murphy, Peter Coward, & Steve Schneider.
Lurking Fear: Scott Stowe & Kevin Fosburg (time & date?)
Grape Race: 23:? Steve Schneider and ?
New Dawn: 23:50 - Willie & Damian Benegas
Virginia: 23/24+? - Jamie Mundo, Eric Sloan & Dave Bainbridge, 2005 (no timing device)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Apr 27, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
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In 69 Muir free-soloed Cathedral peak.. that's almost the seventies. 1870's
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 28, 2013 - 12:16am PT
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Maybe I missed it somewhere in all these posts, but what about Karma? Anything that's been around as long as that climb, and is "only" 5.11, and is still unrepeated (?), well that's a damn significant FA.
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jabbas
Trad climber
New River, AZ
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Apr 28, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Dont care what you say- all elevens are hard -- period !!!
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| Messages 1 - 84 of total 84 in this topic |
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Honnold free solo of RNWF HD
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