Surfing was absolutely essential to my climbing by 1968. The cardiovascular nature of the surfing in waves over five feet really feeds right into what you need for climbing: terrific cardio power. Similarly, paddling built up muscle sets mostly the same as those used for pulling down.
I have to agree with Randy Leavitt's quote at the beginning in that the best day surfing is better than the best day climbing. However, I can say my best days climbing will stand forever while my best days surfing have long since completely utterly vanished.
That most wave rides are only a matter of seconds, literally is both a beautiful and miraculous thing but also underlines how ephemeral rides and perhaps thus a life in surfing really are.
Climbing is often so painful; I don't remember any pain at all in surfing other than running out of breath and burning big time in desperate paddles avoiding the big unexpected cleanup sets in big surf.
Mixing the two sports has been going on for about fifty years now.
Surfing and climbing are my two favorite things in the whole wide world.
For me, though, they are not "complimentary". At least not when surfing is the primary gig.
When I lived on the coast, walking distance from some of California's best waves, there was no way in hell you could get me to go climbing. I didn't want to miss something.
Catching the points before the hordes, or checking the beachie repeatedly and watching it go from crap to a draining uncrowded wonderland....that sh¡t took time and dedication. Not to mention developing enough skills to get waves in a crowded lineup at a marquee break, or be able to actually ride when the beachbreak is draining and breaking boards. Couldn't really be "bothered" with the thought of leaving the coast to climb.
Ok, maybe once in a while, when it was genuinely flat and scheduled to stay that way, a run to Woodson, Tahquitz, Black Mtn or Josh was great. But my fingers were made of water, no real serious climbing.
Surfing was way more addicting.
When the medium for your enjoyment wasn't always there, or could change instantly, I wanted to be onnit. After all, that's why i lived there and put up with all the bs socal can offer.
Now, though, living in the desert stoked as hell on climbing, I jones for a proper surf. I'd pass up a climbing trip for a Midnight rambler surgical strike for a day and a half (hopefully) of surf anyday. I have lost my paddle power but luckily the rest is like riding a bike now, but only after 12 years of surfing everyday.
I dunno. I'm babbling. I just had a great bouldering session but maybe it's time for some saltw#ter therapy.
My project will still be there...but will my callouses?
The only time i climbed and surfed in the same day was sick. Santa Ana low humidity at Rainbow, low tide backlit mysto barrels at Oside jetty. That's livin right there!
I've been surfing since I was 8 (used to stand up on a boogie-board before that), climbing since ~18 months ago. I've often thought of the parallels and contrasts between the two and have thought of writing an essay on them - examples: a rack and a quiver often are worth more than the vehicle in which they are transported, or how I can show up to a crowded break and not say a single word to anyone else for my entire session, yet frequently chat it up with any climber(s) nearby or passing by. Been too lazy to actually write something up.
I have scored epic sessions by skipping out on work or showing up late for thanksgiving dinner - not as likely to happen with climbing. I'm stoked that we've finally had some decent swells since the holidays started - it was pretty sad for quite a while. Missed out on a couple days b/c of a snowboarding trip this weekend, though, but did get a little family climbing in A-hills on the way to Mammoth.
I'm glad I get to choose between some awesome pursuits. While I have had some exciting days on the rock, nothing has given me the feeling of pure stoke when kicking out after a memorable ride; whether its a barrel or just carve after carve down a perfect point. Surfing still has that something extra when it all comes together.
It should be noted that 3 years removed from the coastal/surfing life...
I still wake up early and check the palm trees or flags to see which direction the wind is blowing.
Hey, it's offshore...
LIKE IT REALLY F*#KING MATTERS IN TUCSON!!!
Not climbing OR surfing... I am all for the "have a big quiver" approach. Create a quiver with skills and toys: Climbing, backcountry ski/snowboard, surfing, paragliding, mtn biking, peak bagging and throw in BASE for a couple years and then quit. Then just pick from the quiver as conditions and psyche dictate.
Surfstar- didn't quite get what you meant. i wish I had some better surf shots . I need a scanner for some of the better shots I have. I grew up in your neck of the woods and still do most of my surfing around Pt Conception and central cal. Hoping for a trip to WARM water soon!!!!! Warbler, hope your ankle heals to let you back in the line-up and pack that kid up and go!. Jefe, GET SOME my man!!!.
edit ,I know I've posted this shot before but I love the vibe!!!!
any comparison of surf comps vs climbing comps - was just watching Volcum pipe pro - Heavy- how many climbing comps risk serious injury/death? the boys took some serious beatings. Yea surfstar thats _ been surfing there since I was sixteen - love that wave -
I think the two are complementary in the sense that they both have a primal feel to them; but since they're different elements, rock and water, it makes sense that the nature (pun intended) of the challenges and opportunities that each presents is complementary.
(Disclaimer: Most of my surfing has been on the Washington coast, often not many people out. I've never surfed a crowded SoCal break. That might feel more primal in some ways, but probably less in others.)
I live on the North Shore of Oahu and I don't surf. Don't climb anymore either.
If you haven't seen the recently released body surfing movie from Woodshed Films - Come Hell or Highwater: plight of the torpedo people.
I think it's more a function of population density and competition.
I grew up in a beach town with 2000 people, most of whom didn't surf or boogie board, and it was wonderful. It was more crowded on good days, and you could choose to hang in the pack or go find your own spot.
I have plenty of boogie boarding and surfing memories emblazoned for life, just like from climbing. The peaceful connection with nature that comes from hanging out at belays is very similar to that waiting for the next surf set to come in. Just letting your mind wander, or pondering the flecks of sand suspended in the water, or the crystal grains in the granite... different texture, same nirvana.
One unique part of growing up surfing that I liked... you could be in the middle of a deep conversation with someone, waiting on the outside, then you stop mid-sentence and start paddling after the bump on the horizon. Some frenzied activity, barely surviving a few duck dives, a cool wave and some pounding through the impact zone as you paddle back out, and 45 minutes later you pick up the conversation where you left off like nothing happened. I haven't thought about that for more than 20 years, but it's still hanging back in my brain.
I miss my childhood freedom to just wake up, look up and down the coast from my balcony while putting on the wetsuit, and just walk down to where the waves look best. I'm not far from the coast now, and I drive much farther to Yosemite for climbing all the time, but somehow I lost the strong connection to surfing as a way of life. I had it too easy as a kid! Now I have to work for that feeling and I don't chase it. But I do chase it for climbing.
The surfers are as#@&%es topic keeps coming up. I think its a bit unjustified. Imagine if you were out at the crag and multiple gumbies were gumming it up all over the place - top roping hogging the 1st pitch of a classic multi-pitch, spraying incessantly, letting their dogs eat your lunch, and other retarded gumby antics. As a legit non-gumby climber, this would irritate you, right?
Right. Its the same thing surfing just replace the gumby antics with dropping in on someone, paddling out through the lineup in front of someone, ditching your board and shooting it at someone, etc...
If you surf with a decent amount of skill and know your way around a lineup or a wave, you will have no problems. If you can't do those things, then go back to the Swan Slab.
I have been a surfer for over 20 years, and a climber for over 30. I climb 3 days a week in the gym and outside as much as possible, and I try to surf 4 days a week (conditions rule). If the surf is really good I will surf 7 days a week and still try to sneak in a couple of gym sessions. I live only 10 minutes from Sloat in San Francisco and 15 from Planite Granite. It is about as good as it gets for a city slicker. Surfing satisfies my outdoor fix when climbing outside is not an option. Surfing dawn patrol or climbing from 6 to 8 am, really makes my day get off to a good start. I am addicted equally to both.
Pretty much only have crap shots of me surfing. Sorry for the fuzz.
These shots, and the others are all at the same spot(with a few obvious exceptions). Many moods. So cool.
That's one thing about surfing- you can finish what felt like the best wave of your life and you turn around and it's gone. Poof. All you have is the memory, the heartbeat, the stoke. Never to be repeated again. That's what keeps you coming back for more.
Your spot sure looks like...
Let's see...is it named after a kind of tree?
If so, I've scored there before.
Muddy local trucks with gun racks...they heckled me for NOT wearing booties(!), obvious souther board...
Luckily my first wave was a gem and I didn't blow it stagefright style.
Oh, and I've surfed socialclimber's spots.
Good times in the foodchain!
Well I climbed this morning and ran out of time this afternoon to surf after helping my Mom with some stuff. Wasn't complimentary today, but the swell is peaking tomorrow morning so I'll still be fine...
It was amazingly "clean" and sunny yesterday in norcal. Far away storms with unusual local weather? I didn't know how to feel. I told myself I'd go check the inside breaks this morning, and possibly go for a swim.
Rising seas, slowly growing coral, disappearing points, eroding cliffs, "higher" wave action, disappearing sand (bars). Better go get after it ...
Well, I used to be a pretty darn good climber, but at 51 I'm just not as strong or psyched anymore, although I can still get out and lead ok stuff. Let's just say I'll be getting a lot worse from here on out!
When I started surfing in '95, I totally sucked. Now I"m pretty good...of course, living in Colorado has its limitations, but I travel a lot to surf. I like the fact that I still have a lot of room for improvement, and don't feel held back by my age.
I think surfing is an easier sport to age gracefully in...climbing just gets hard! Plus, I know way too many people that have died climbing, and I personally don't know a single person that has died surfing. I of course know that lots of people die surfing, I just don't happen to be acquainted with anyone.....wish I could say the same about climbing.
Two amazing activities though!
Yeah, Ocean Beach is known to be one of the worst paddles in the world. Took me a solid 30 minutes today... took my friend and hour yesterday to get out. But soooo good once you make it out. Today was almost as epic as yesterday
It's been EPIC here on the north shore of Maui for so long now that I haven't found time to tune in to the taco. I was delighted to find this thread this morning. I hope to jump in soon in that I am a rock/surf bum kinda guy as well. Aloha Olaf http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com
I love them both. However, I find it nearly impossible to motivate to go to the gym on a beautiful warm day when I can be outside and in the surf. As expected, my climbing suffers. I can think of worse trade-offs.
However, I have found a use for my climbing gear in the surfing arena. While shooting Mavericks on a boat lurching about in the sea, rather than trying to hang on and keep my balance, I girth-hitched a runner to a guardrail on the bow and then clipped a biner into my leather belt. While everyone else was slipping and sliding, I sat back and could shoot the spectacle in comfort. Next time I go out on a boat, I'm wearing my harness.
Right on, Charles. Yes, the neoprene in the morning is always a rough one. That, and getting smacked in the face with the first wave of the morning are always tough barriers, but once they're gone, the bliss begins.
One of the guys on here did mention the large numbers of assholish folks often at the good breaks. That is the one thing that does get in the way for me sometimes. I participate in these sports to get away. Jockeying for position at a Santa Cruz break is kind of a bummer when you're looking for a break.
All the more reason to take a vacation to some deserted, warm beach... with cliffs to climb in the background. :)
Great question. In my opinion as someone who has surfed hard for 30 years and climbed relatively hard and as passionately as anyone for 15 years, they are not complimentary physically but are indeed mentally.
I grew up surfing but have climbed religiously for the past 18 years, and I couldn't agree with Randy Leavitt any more! Getting spit out of a double overhead freight train at Honolua Bay is bar-none the most exhilarating experience of my life, and a sunny-chest high day is about as relaxing as it gets. Topping out on the Diamond or sending my hardest sport project is satisfying,gratifying and a fantastic motivator, but climbing always contains an underlying anxiety for me, whether due to fear or a self-induced pressure to perform. I feel extremely fortunate to have been able to enjoy both activities throughout my life, I just wish Cali wasn't so expensive and crowded.
I surfed a popular Santa Cruz county spot yesterday- it was such a zoo. One thing about climbing is that as you improve you get to climb better less crowded routes. When you get better at surfing you end up at more crowded spots competing against better surfers.
Hay trundlebum, Thanks for the comment on the MP thread. We have just under 33K page views and it's picking up momentum every day. I would like to acknowledge your creative efforts ever since the beginning back in 08. I believe we are one of (if not) the longest running active threads on that website. I have more fun with the thread than my magazine or my blog. I just feel most comfortable in the presence of climbers.
I invite the taco crew to jump in if you have an interest to share the surf/rock bum lifestyle. Cheers Olaf
I would like to share a painting by Tracy Harp she is a a great surfer and wave sailor and a dominant force in the "Kuau Yacht Club"
This is another bump for the climbing/surfing thread.
There has been no lack of world class waves here on the north shore of Maui lately. The only catch is if you are only a surfer you're limited to just the dawn patrol before the wind gets on it and blows it out BUT if you have wind skills you're in the best place on the planet to express yourself in every size waves imaginable.
Many of our core group are accomplished big wave surfers and wave sailors. Some of us are even rock climbers with many first assents and notable walls and peaks to thier credit. It's very hard to be a big fish in this pond. These days I travel back to my home in Colorado to climb. I train very little for climbing these days so my trad leading head is very very rusty but after a few days with my bro's I can still get up a few things. Climbing is always on my mind and I aspire to get the opportunity to do an extended road trip to taste some of those classics that I remember from back in the day. Cheers to all you rock/surf bums here on the Taco! Aloha Olaf
Just back from a great Costa Rica surf trip and stoked to see all the great pics. Have been climbing/skiing many years and learning to surf for quite a few less years. Maybe was once a real climber but will probably never be a real surfer. Too much fun not to keep at it though. But I keep thinking that surfing lacks a killer learning aid that skiing has had for a long time, and realized the answer has been under my butt all along: Chairlifts!! Think about it. An elegant solution to all that tiring paddling and breath holding! The engineering can't be any harder or more expensive than building a pier or drilling platform. What with wave machines and all, I can't believe someone hasn't built one by now. And there's precedent: jumping off a pier, hiking to the point, PWC's, and boats. It would be easy to string one up on the side of an existing pier, too. Any decent beach break could be made accesible to anybody with the price of a ticket, and the whole inside would be open because everybody is riding the chair! You could even limit the onloads to thin out the lineup. And no more wasting time earning respect and giving way....just paddle back from the chair to the takeoff and go. Plus, less time in the water to contract infectious diseases after every rainstorm and runoff event. Sometimes my genius surprises even me. Looking for investors!
Haha also can't tell if he's kidding, but of course someone from colorodo would be the one to want a chairlift at the beach. That could easily be the worst thing that could happen to surfing. The day I have to pay to surf....I can't even finish that sentence! Never!!!!
Yeah, it's a joke! But maybe a little scary, too. Who would have thought 25 years ago that climbing would actually become a competition sport with cheering crowds and circuits and indoor specialists? Lots of parallels between the sports. Now there's even a contest circuit for the big wave guys. For me, at least, surfing and climbing in the end boil down to solitary pursuits, sans crew. Cracks me up to read about people having to wait to go climbing because their photographer isn't ready. And just 'cause I'm from Colorado doesn't mean I ride the lifts.
One winter day a while back my very attractive blond friend Lynn and I were just starting the 1/4 mile paddle out at Kanaha when this Maui Water Patrol man pulled up by us on his County Jet Ski and asked if we wanted a tow. We said " Hell Yeah!" You should have seen the looks on all da bradda's faces when he dropped us of at da peak. Oh well, That was a once in a life time experience. Every now a again I run into Lynn and we most always bring up that tow out.
BTW: Phil I was just about to express my $.02 on your chair ride to the peak idea. Thanks for clearing up the troll and not starting a sh#t storm an this very cool thread. Aloha, Olaf
I didn't mean to start nothin', guys. Just a sarcastic cynical old fart. I wasn't joking about the being surprised nobody had done it yet part though. Seems like it would fit right in with the current adventure travel craze. Crazy big thinkers have come up with some pretty strange things. How about Abalonia? And to answer the thread question, without a doubt.
Finally a post to break out of "lurking" for! We are all so damn lucky to be climbing and/or surfing--the friendships, places and experiences we take are highlighted often in both sports. These are some of my favorite days and piccys to go with...
Glad I am finally returning something to this amazing site...Ive been lurking about other peoples trip reports for some time now...
Heres a few more surf and climb stoke photos of two complimentary pursuits(i.e more shameless self promotion of my own fortunate adventures) Hope you folks enjoy them!
In the spirit of keeping this thread alive I thought that I would like to try and share one of my images of surfing a substantial winter day here on the north shore a few seasons back.
The parking lot isn’t empty but there are a lot of vacant spaces.
Walking through the kiavi trees out to the beach I get my first view of the ocean.
I’m wide eyed and I have a lump in my throat as I stare into the winter swell. With my binoculars I watch one wave after another close out completely.
The waves are so big that I question my sanity for even thinking about paddling out!
I am preoccupied and I don’t realize that my friend Dave has arrived at the scene.
Dave looks at the conditions and says, “Olaf, this is dangerous!"
I reply, “It could be Dave, but let’s paddle out, we don't have to drop in on any of them!"
Having surfed this spot many times we are fully aware of how the hydraulics work over this section of reef.
The size and direction of this swell has changed the character of everything.
The main peak is much further out than normal and there is a breaking wave in the channel.
There are also occasional sneaker peaks popping up in odd places.
I manage to catch few smaller waves on the inside left and started to calm down a bit. In fact I was having fun.
On the horizon I see this "macker" rolling in and Dave and I both start paddling for our lives, were paddling up a dead vertical wall of water! Our timing was good and we both made it over that one.
That really got my adrenaline pumping!
Dave says, "Humm! Olaf, that one was big!"
I reply, "Yeah Dave it was, but take a look at this one!"
The next wave of the set comes out of nowhere.
It totally creams us!
All that I have time to do is take a deep breath, relax, and hang on to my board.
After tumbling in the torrent for a while I surface and I say to myself, “WOW! That one wasn’t so bad.”
I look to make sure if my board is still in one piece. I find it’s still intact.
Thanks to the long intervals between the larger sets the paddle back out side is casual.
Back in the lineup, I notice each surfers face is sporting a serious expression and there is relatively no idle conversation. There isn’t a defined line up, the waves are erratic and the current is so strong that it’s hard to hold any kind of position.
It's every man for himself.
If some fool wants to roll the dice and drop in on one of these waves, every one wishes him well and gets out of the way!
While I’m patiently sitting outside what appears to be a perfect peak comes my way.
I turn and paddle for it.
My timing is late and I am sucked over the falls.
I take a long freefall followed by a violent thrashing!
Next, I get to walk on the reef for a while, and my only thought is that, I need air!
Pulling hand over hand on my leash takes me to the surface. I’m careful not to pull too hard. Once in the past, I actually pulled my board right into my face. That proved to be way more dangerous than the wave.
I’m shaken from the violent pounding of the last wave but paddle back out. I sit the outside the breaking waves for a good long while.
After the last thrashing, I’m not eager to put my life back on the line right away.
It’s some time before I able to relax.
Eventually my thoughts turn to idle daydreaming. Thoughts like what I want to be when I grow up or that bonehead thing that I wish I hadn’t said last night replace the tension and terror of my last wipeout.
It’s a lot of work to hold my position where I think the wave will peak.
Some of the other surfers are sitting inside and left. They’re trying to surf in the safety zone created by the left shoulder section. This strategy often works but today the left channel is closing out.
A very steep board-breaking wave takes its place and is catching the unsuspecting surfers off guard.
Then low and behold the most perfect wave manifests right before my eyes. I really don’t have to try to catch it. It is just that perfect.
Two strokes are all that it takes and I’m on it! I’m dropping down the face of this magnificent wonder of nature. It is a perfectly pealing left hand wave with a steep shoulder that goes on forever! It feels like some three star intermediate groomed run at Vail.
With total commitment I set my rail and initiate the bottom turn. I then climb back to the lip and cut back to the peak. With the peak crumbling just inches behind my fin, I smack the lip and then repeat the aforementioned, seemingly interminable drop, rails digging and fins threatening to break loose but still holding their track I glide into the channel!
I hear “hoots” from the other surfers! I know that I have just dropped in on one of the best waves of the day.
I spend another hour getting clobbered without getting another wave.
It‘s a long paddle in but I have had enough of this brand of fun for one day!
Those are some sick shots "briham89"
I really dig the stoke that this thread is generating!
Here's a few images that I shot yesterday afternoon at Hookipa between rain squalls. It was one of those mixed up days with substantial waves, moderate Kona winds and rain squalls. It really wasn't inspiring me to surf so I shot a few photos and talked story with some friends along the way.
Today is more promising. I can here the surf pounding as I write this post.
Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
Since no one has jumped in and given us a more valid comparison in my opinion,I'm gonna continue with this direction for one more post cause I am a guy and I like to see strong beautiful women athletes in action.
Better try dropping into a similar sized North OB Jetty barrel, cranking one off the bottom before ya kiss the rocks & then sending it down the line and out the other end...before ya make dem claims, bro!!
EDIT: not that we need any promo's, but a claim is a claim...
Alternitive name: OD Jetty(did i mention the take-off/particularly approaching dubl-o-head)
Wave quality: Regional Classic
Experience: Pros or Kamikazi's only(did i mention the take-off??)
Wave length: Normal day(50-150m) Good day(150-300m)
Power: Hollow, fast, powerful...
Dangers: Man-made(buoys, rocks, etc./did i mention the take-off??) -- Localism -- Polution(from SD River/only after rain).
(Ours doesn't do so bad in the surfline write-up, either...)
It's the consistent size that makes SF's OB... when I was living in Santa Barbara, where I grew up and learned to surf, swell size like in the pic I posted would be the day of the year...up here, it's nothing overly special, just another day in a good week.
Hey O-Man, is there a source for the beauty art you've been posting? Good stories, too. Wish I could surf like that....have to settle for the drop into Highlands Bowl this time of year....Free your heel, free your....whatever.
That's freaking rad Chris. I've been trying to think about what in climbing compares to getting shacked and coming out the other end. Maybe sending a hard route or summitting on a wall. Or maybe there is no point in comparing and just enjoy the stoke of each.
Everyone likes to paint a nice picture of how their sessions go and I am not any different.
But there is only one way I can describe how this winter is going for me and that is GNARLY!
We have been having back to back advisory/warning level swells and nuclear winds.
Being an avid wave sailor I should be delighted but so many mishaps have occurred that I am getting worn down. I had back to back rib injuries earlier in the season. Then I had another injury that I won’t go into that wasn’t surf related.
Surfing and wave sailing in substantial conditions require you to be in top condition and I really haven’t been injury free most of the season. When you’re a wave junkie like me it’s hard to sit on the beach and be a spectator and not to go out.
Now I have had some great surf and wave sailing sessions this season but lately it has been very challenging and I am not the only one that is feeling the wear.
Two weeks back it was just sick big! I sailed the day before it got totally out of control and I caught one session as that swell was dropping. In both of those sessions I was careful not to get caught inside. This was followed by another bump of equal proportions. The wind was so off shore that there was next to no wind on the inside and blowing like stink on the outside so it was next to impossible to choose the proper kit. What do you do? It’s very important to rig big enough so you have enough power to get through the impact zone but if you do you wind up so over powered on the wave that you can’t express yourself on the wave face. This being the case you tend to rig small and hope for a break in the sets so you can sneak out side without getting clobbered. In one of my sesh’s I was held under longer than I have in a very long time.
In the last week the giant long period N/W ground swells have dropped off but they were still there. They have been replace by massive tight interval S/E wind swell producing 20’++ faces. Now this isn’t all that bad in that the faces of these waves are fairly smooth and easy to ride but ya always got to keep an eye out over your shoulder and make sure that the wave behind you isn’t going to eat you when you kick out the back.
The first part of last week it was so stinking windy that I chose to wait till later on the day hoping for the wind to recede and each day as I was about to launch the wind just crapped out once due to a passing rain squall and the other it just dropped bit by bit I showed up with a 3.7m and before I got on the water it had dropped a notch. Not wanting to go out in surf of the magnitude under powered I walked back to my place and got my 4.1m sail. No sooner did I get it rigged the wind dropped another notch. I could have or maybe should have just gone back home a got my 4.7m but by this time I was getting frustrated. So I just took my stuff home and put it away.
The next day I wasn’t going to let that happen again so I went earlier and rigged my 3.7m and went out I got creamed on my way out but eventually made it outside. It was so windy that it was very hard to manage but I got some great waves (I also almost sailed right on top of a whale that was cruising along the surface not very far outside the impact zone) before I decided to go in. The spot that I typically sail has one of the most technical launch and returns on the north shore. I have had just about everything imaginable happen to me in the last thirty meters. This day the current was running like a mountain stream in spring runoff. With a rip running that strong and no wind on the inside I fell in a very bad place. I made an effort to swim with my gear but it was futile so I decided to water star and go back outside and give it another shot.
By this time the current had a firm hold on me and before I knew or could do anything about it I was in the middle of the bone yard and these two to three foot demons were pounding me into the rocks time after time. I have been in this place in the past and know that is no use in fighting the inevitable. I just tried to not get clobbered by my gear as the waves crashed us on the rocks. It’s very entertaining to watch someone get the living S..t kicked of them in that rock garden.
Well I came out of that relatively unscathed but my 78ltr. Quatro wave board took some big hits and my 3.7m Goya wave sail suffered some serious bruises. After that I collected the carnage called it a day.
The next day looked better. So I showed up at the beach and rigged and went out I was immediately taken out time after time. Finally this one substantial wave hit me. Typically when I get hit by a wave that big I let my rig go and then swim after it. But several of my friends lost their entire rigs in the past two days due to the extreme currents generated by this vigorous N/E wind swell so I held on. The power of that wave combined with the resistance of me hanging on was too much for my Goya 370 mast and it folded.
I have been in this situation several times in the past and realize that there is nothing that I can do but keep hold of my gear and start swimming for shore. The current was very strong and my choices of possible landing sites were very limited due to cliffs and jagged rocky beaches. My first choice was the back of the bay but that possibility soon diminished so I set my sights on Blue Tile House Beach at Tavares Bay this seemed possible but as I worked my way closer I realized that the current wasn’t going to let me come in there. Well next possible place was Spy Glass house but I dismissed that option remembering the last time I tried that spot.( I just got beat up severely on those rocks and my gear suffered majorly).
The next possible port was Buddha Bay. I have retrieved numerous wave sailors that have broken down and washed in at that spot over the years. None of those guys had a positive thing to say about that spot.
As I got closer I realized that the current was going to push me right past Buddha Bay and I set my sights on Paia Bay and wasn’t dismissing the possibility of landing at Baldwin Beach even further down the coast.
I was completely at peace with my situation in that it wasn’t close to dark yet and there wasn’t any thing that I could do other than go with the flow.
That‘s when I noticed my friend Dean sitting on a kayak with a big smile on his face. I told him that I was glad to see him but didn’t know if there was anything he could do to help other than hang out and keep me company while I worked my way to the next possible landing spot.
Dean had strapped a surfboard leash to the back of the kayak and told me to hang on and he would try to tow me against the current into Buddha Bay. I was doubtful that this was going to work but I was getting tired and more than willing to give it a try.
Surprisingly we made slow but steady progress toward the shore.
We could see the waves pounding at Buddha Bay and knew that we were going to have to come up with a plan.
The last thing we needed was for Dean and his kayak and me and my sailboard rig to be taken out by a sneaker set while trying to land. The thought of the two of us and the gear tumbling in the same wave was not pretty.
Then the next thing that I know a head popped up out of nowhere. Tracy had been watching and swam out to help with negotiating the dicey last bit. She had been scoping out the best place to come in and had it all figured out.
The next thing I noticed was Viktor standing on the beach spotting the best place as well.
With all these wonderful friends helping, the landing went seamlessly and we carried everything up on to the lawn at the Buddhist Temple and I started to de-rig my broken rig.
Next Pete showed up. He had gone into town and grabbed a 12 pack.
We went back to the launch and had a beer. We talked story for a while, and watched another Maui sunset.
All in all it was just business as usual in my neck of the woods.
I’m sitting here trying to remember some of the details of a recent surf sesh I had and
it’s real hard to focus on any single wave other than this one.
At the beginning of the sesh I dropped in on a couple of bombs that were nothing but a big clean drop to a big close out.
Then Kanaha started really showing her teeth and she was in a foul mood.
Not many guys were going for the set waves and I found out why.
I was sitting pretty far out when something rose up on the horizon.
I immediately started paddling out as fast as I could.
I paddled for a long way and I didn't know if I had gone far enough.
By the time the set got to me I still wasn't clear of this makker set.
I paddled up vertical faces that I don't have any I idea of how big they were, but, they spooked me.
One after another I paddled over three of them and just barely cleared the lip before it threw.
I kept eyes on the horizon as I caught a couple smaller waves that were closeouts as well.
I was hoping for one good wave and then I was going to call it a day.
I was sitting off to the left of what I thought was the peak when this smaller looking glassy peak rolled right up to me.
It was a perfect right hander.
I hardly had to paddle.
I made two strokes and popped up into a low aggressive stance.
I dropped down the long smooth face.
I charged back up that smooth face for almost as far as I had dropped at the peak.
Just when I was initiating my top turn the wave decided to throw.
And boy did it!
I had a full head of steam when I collided with this exploding peak. I was thrown far in the air and my board was thrown even farther. When it had stretched my leash as far as it could the board rebounded. It powered back at me like one of those paddle balls on a rubber band.
I remember seeing the fins as they passed by my face.
Then it happened!
I landed right in the epicenter of the force that the wave was producing.
I was violently pummeled and held under for an uncomfortably long while.
When I came up I only had time for one deep breath before the next equally sized wave dumped on my head.
This went on for several more waves.
Each one of them delivered a severe beating.
All I could do is breath when I got the chance and try and protect my board as best I could.
When that set subsided I paddled back out and caught a couple more smaller waves before calling it a day.
I was asked by several guys how my sesh was and all I could tell them was that I caught some big waves and I paid for them
Obviously you're familiar with the wave at Kanaha Beach Park here on Maui.
I typically surf the main peak at lower Kanaha.
For me it's primarily a long board wave in that it’s a ¼ mile paddle out and it can be a bit mushy and hard to get into on a short board.
It has a fine right that rivals Punta San Carlos for length and often holds up through three distinct sections and gets faster the further you go.
If you do make all three sections the paddle back seems forever. Also there is no distinct channel back outside from the right and turns into seemly interminable duck diving and turtle rolling.
Like I mentioned in a previous post I often choose the inside passage by paddling all the way around to the left channel. It's a long leisurely paddle and the left channel often lets you outside without taking very many on the head. That is unless it gets really big and then it’s a whole different board snapping wave.
Many people choose to surf the second right hand section in that it's faster and not as competitive. If you kick out soon enough the paddle back isn't soo bad. I never surf the third section, aka "The Bone Yard" because like you described in your post it is extremely shallow. That is unless I make it through to the third from the main peak in the same wave.
I used to wave sail the third section fairly often to get away from the crowd. I can remember enjoying that wave so much that I forgot to kick out and rode it to the end and scraping my fin on the reef. I felt really silly standing in thigh deep water barefoot on top of very sharp coral while getting pounded by little one foot waves.
Depending on the day I will ride several rights and then settle in to the left off the peak if it’s not too crowded. It’s a great left that holds up well and deposits you directly into the channel.
The angled wave aka “The Weird Wave” aka “The Portuguese Triangle” I wind surf it occasionally when it gets real big. It has a good right channel that never closes out. It is a very long paddle past the main lower peak. It’s also becoming popular with the SUP gang and that is a blessing for us trad surfers. I hope that trend continues.
I just realized that YER GONNNA DIE!!! is very relevant in surfing. Haven't we all had that moment when we are caught inside of a monster set, or we are paddling over the first wave of a set to see that monster out there that you have no chance of making it over? And everytime I think to myself I'M GONNA DIE!!! but somehow i never do hahaha
This is for all you old guys out there. Forgive me if I wax nostalgic.
My first board was a Dale Velzy 9'6". Weighed a flippin ton. But it got me started and before you know it I was saving my pennies, mowing lots of lawns and for my 16th birthday got the latest Hansen "superflex". It wasn't long and the short board revolution hit, boards suddenly became 2' shorter, lighter and the world of surfing changed forever.
There was a guy in the Valley (San Fernado) the made a fortune doing "Cutdowns" at this time. I gave him this board and he would lopp off 2', reshape it and there you go, a short board and you were one of the cutting edge guys.
Suddenly things looked like this:
California street, Ventura
A buddy and I went one evening for the "glass off". It never glassed off but standing in the parking lot at Zuma we noticed line after line stacking up out to sea. This was before the internet and recorded "Surf Reports" and so the only way you could know if it was going to be good was to be there. I picked him up at 4:30 and had Malibu almost to ourselve for about 3 hours at 5-6'. Great day.
This is how it usually looked in the early 70's. Notice there are still a few long board holdouts in the water.
Of course we made our required trek to the islands and stayed in this bungalow at Sunset Point ("Backyards"). We could walk to Velzyland each morning for some great times.
Hope you all don't mind the way-back machine. It's all I got.
Depends where you go and who you go with and how you learn... localism exists, but it's hyped too much...
There are mellow spots (with cool folks) to learn and practice with on the west side in the summer. I would recommend an instructor/guide to get you going in the right direction. Even if you don't make it your greatest passion you'll never regret the time spent experiencing what it feels like to be a SURFER!
Like they said, depends on where you go, but as a beginner you will most likely be going to a beach break of which there are many public beaches with lots of beach, parking, and surfers with all types of experience, including beginners. We all went through it, the gremmie period & the localism. Just remember the basic rule of thumb in the water; don't take off in front of a guy already on the wave or in a better position when you are both simultaneously scratching to get the same wave. Localism is way over hyped for the most part. And like O-man suggests, prollie would be a good idea to rent a board and get a 1-2 hour lesson the first time to see if you like it and get a few pointers. Especially if your planning a trip to his neck of the woods(the Islands). If you are, Waikiki would be an excellent intro to the sport with the origional Hawiian Beach Boys as instructors!
This is a great shot of the Tijuana Sloughs (small day December, 1967) - that's Dempsey Holder and I don't know who else. You really don't want to go in the water there these days.
Dempsey speaks (sound familiar?):
Back in West Texas where I was raised there were lots of cowboys, but that didn’t mean too much.
The thing that was a real compliment was to be a stockman.
That’s like a waterman—somebody that can handle themselves in the water.
Emergency come along—you can take care of yourself.
My good friend Dave (DC) Chalmers and Max at Coronado.
Max was one of the very first surfing dogs. Because
of the way Dave lived his life until he died from melanoma,
Max probably rode more waves than most surfers.
Just saw o-man's image of the dolphins riding a wave on the previous page. Actually saw about four dolphins playing and doing just that in moderately heavy surf off of Carlsbad today! Very cool. One also jumped straight up and came back down in likewise manner! Needless to say, my kids and me were thrilled.
As for surfing, one of these days, one of these day. Definitely "speaks" to me. Just gotta live close to the coast so I can get regular. I live very close to the base of the San Gabriel Mountains, so I am not complaining from that perspective!
Saturday at 11am I met up with a surf instructor.
We proceeded out to Cowells.
The early morning was 30 mph winds and rain so I think many people just didn't show up.
Once we got to the beach, there was zero wind!
We had Cowells almost to ourselves at 3'-4'...
Instructors was great! Ron from Santa Cruz Surf School.
He gave some assistance with getting positioned for incoming sets etc.
First wave I go for.....
I paddle,paddle, power paddle, power paddle, I feel the board lift..... Oh my Gawd this us awesome!!!! Quick move to my feet. Front foot drug a bit but landed perfect center. IM SURFING!!!!! I rode that wave till I hopped off the board!!!!!
That's it!!!! I love this sport !!!
It's just amazing the way the waves just roll forward and we can cruise their smooth face.
Now remember, this is Cowells in Santa Cruz... As Crouch said, "the girl scouts of surfing".
I do not care... I was having a freKin blast!!!!
We spent 2 hours out surfing... Many falls. Many missed waves. Lots of seals.
I bought a new wetsuit and I am trying to figure out how I can get back out again this week.
Surfing and climbing..... What a life!!!!
It brings back memories of heading out for North County San Diego on the weekends. Sitting on bean bags in the back of something like this, but quite a bit less stylized.
Dad had a Pipeline dub, made on a reel to reel. The song copied twice without a beat missing in between. It lasted just a little longer. Riding skate boards goofy foot. He tried to get me to start natural. Finally, he gave up, and said well you can surf it someday. His dream board is still hanging in our house.
Saturday nights, we slept on the floor of a friend's condo in Del Mar. No furniture. Now, the place is probably worth a King's ransom.
Finally, if you need a board, you can ride mine. (maybe pay just pay for the repairs if needed.)
When the wind is good (I don't think the swell matters that much), you don't see anybody sittin' in the water. They're all cruising up and down the line. I stopped and talked to a couple kite guys and they said the transition from surfing isn't major and pretty much everybody shares without the conflicts you see elswhere. Thumbs up.
Scored some amazing / warm surf down in the southern hemi (or actually on the equator i guess) last week. This is at San Cristobal in the Galapagos Islands.
7-10 foot SW swell rolled in for a couple days, and it was going off here. Had it to myself every morning. Except one day, when there was a little local surf competition. The groms were shredding, and amazed by my whiteness haha. Luckily I tanned out a bit by the end, but still being a foot taller than anyone on the island and the only one with blue eyes and blonde hair, definitely made me stick out where ever i went.
Every take off, it was best not to look down at the nearly exposed /sometimes out of the water reef.
The sea lions were very playful and not afraid of humans.
Pound some stubs into the tree and bam climbing route! I wanted to get a look at the anchor, but it was out of site....the rope was a little scary looking.
Great trip report briham89! surfing over a beautiful coral reef in warm clear water with abundant sea life,and tree climbing too, very cool!
We have had a visiting Hawaiian Monk seal at our launch spot lately. Here's a link to a story that that I put together about it. http://mauiwindsurfing.blogspot.com/2012/03/goldie-and-seal.html
Maui has an abundance of substantial waves but there is one glitch and that is wind. So in order to fully take advantage of these dynamic waves you really need a wind sport in addition to traditional paddle in tactics.
In the link below I have tried to share a fairly typical winter day in my neck of the woods. http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2011/08/another-great-day-at-beach.html
Probably the best barrel session I ever had was on a Good Friday.
Beachbreaks are more often than not, very fickle. My local spot was no exception, with magical windows lasting sometimes only half an hour.
Even though I could walk to Trestles from my house, the allure of catching the beachie when it was ON kept me checking there first. I noted angles, periods, and tides. Made sure to check right before dark, and hope for the right windchimes to wake me up for the dawnie.
Trestles was always good, and most of the time, crowded. It was always a small victory to catch Lowers good midday, or when the surf cammers were fooled.
But catching Park meant so much more.
More challenge(wave, not crowd). More risk and more reward. This beachbreak is not a typical gradual sloping sand bottom with waves breaking way outside. It is a ledgy, steep beach with an occasional rock. Super tide dependant.
So when spring would roll around, with combo swells, cleaned up storm surf, windswell, and early offshores that quickly changed...my spidey senses would tingle.
That one Good Friday dawned with just the right combination of factors to make it go off. Added factor- no one else thought it would be good that morning. Not a creature was stirring...
I suited up at home watching that weather girl Jillian and coffeeing up. I didn't need to check it, i knew it was on.
I rode over and started down the trail. My first view down the canyon was a sweet one. A frames. Spit. No one out. Not big, not small- juuust right. Like porridge.
I ran down the trail, amping.
The paddle was cake, as the wave breaks close, and conditions were superclean, and soon enough a nice little bump came my way.
I was riding my 6'0 RNF- a kind of fish/shortboard hybrid, twinnie with a chip trailer.
Easy in, fade off the bottom, eye that obvious step, and schhhhhhhhhhhhwwwwiiiiiissssssssss. Barrelled.
That step was there every time, so easy to read, so easy to set up, so easy to make.
I must've gotten, I don't know, 20 barrels that morning before the tide and wind made me go to work.
I show up at the house I'm painting and am hanging up my wettie when the homeowner drives up. He's a surfer too.
I'm all stoked and he's all bummed.
He went to Trestles.
And it SUCKED!
Sorry for the spray but every Good Friday I remember that session.
Especially now that I'm in Tucson.
Waaaaay earlier in this there are pics of this spot and it's many moods .
I had kind of set a goal to get good at surfing the beachbreak. Aside from being fickle, it was often tricky and sometimes heavy.
All the points are so easy(and fun) that it makes you feel like Kelly Slater with hair. Try surfing a faster, or hollower, or trickier wave and feel like a kook.
So i surfed the beachbreak when it sucked, when it was wrong, blown, whatever.
I really tried to remember everything that made it work, and even then it would suck, or i would.
Slowly i figured out the nuances of the beach, the wave. I built my skills and reaction time.
The days when it all would come together were awesome.
Then i would go back to the points and just amp out on how long and forgiving the waves were. Paddling for hours. Tired legs.
Like Warbler said, you spend a lot of time surfing the crowd. Even with friends, or a spot in the lineup, it gets old.
What i can say is that it prepared me well for roadtrips to other spots when they were crowded. Whether putting on the cloaking device, or the hood and warpaint, I could usually get my share at Rincon or wherever.
Love those pointbreaks!!!!
But man, give me a dredger with no crowd and a short paddle and I'm a happy guy!
Reilly SUPers usually wear leashes. At the wedge almost no one wears leashes because the wave is so damn powerful you don't want to get sucked by your board (especially a big as SUP). When i lived down there I didn't use a leash on my body board or surfboard.
I never surfed County Line.
Countless times checked, never saw it looking worthy, at least not better or more appealing than Secos, which is where I liked more and would end up surfing.
Yep, never saw it look good.
After a late night with Joe Strummer and the Mescaleros at the Troubador, my bro and I slept in his van in the dirt lot on the bluff there.
I woke up to the rig shaking, figured we were getting rousted by the man.
Nope, just 40mph Santa Anas.
When i got out to take a leak the door was nearly ripped from the hinges.
Red dust was being blown into the lineup making the waves rust colored.
And boy were there waves.
One crispy critter sat in his truck watching and coffeeing up. I had no coffee, by the way, and the closest being down at Trancas, i was barely human- especially after the night on the Strip.
Anyway, homie gets out of his faded truck, with his faded, holey wetsuit, full 80's surf mullet, grabs his old single fin which looked like an over ripe bananna, and skips down to the cobbles.
The waves were goingthefûckoff. Overhead peaks with crazy offshores, slow mo, peeling, hollow.
Homie was the only one out and his first wave was a gem- faded into the tube with a casual pose, emerged with the lookback. Dry hair.
Next one, same thing.
He basically put on an old skool style clinic.
Aside from being tattered from the Troube and without proper caffeination, we just couldn't bring ourselves to spoil this guy's solo session.
Watching was just too much fun
So the one time i actually saw half decent waves at County Line, I didn't even paddle out.
Headed out today for Santa Cruz, then catching the big bird to Kauai. Warm water, surf and sun. Only bummer is that I blew my ankel up last week and looks like I'll be swimming instead of surfing. Damn! I guess I'lll be fishing a lot with a bucket of coldies watching the hommies rip it. Been looking foward to warm water waves all winter. Oh well , just roll with it . injuries suck
I'm not a surfer, but in case it wasn't posted previously, I figured some of you might appreciate this stunning film by Mickey Smith. Seems it's garnered a fair number of awards, and I realize it's a few years old.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
makes me wonder if there is (or could be) a climbing equivalent.
Leaving on the sailboat in t-minus 9 hrs and counting. Destination: warm crystal clear waters 48 hrs away.
Surf? Hopefully, but it doesn't really matter...
Climbing? Probably not, but it doesn't really matter...
Me and a hand full of my pals rode some substantial waves at Noriega's yesterday.
What a sesh!
The right channel was open and hardly any penalty's were assessed.
That makes me very happy.
This might be the last really big west swell of the season.
Today looks good as well
Full On, Game On!
Probably not too much more will show up in the news, but Mike's headed down in about a month. I'm still waiting for my invitation.
The Judicial Investigation Police OIJ report said that the attacker was attacking the US citizens because earlier in the day they almost ran into the mans daughter while she was also out surfing adjacent to them. The US citizens were also told that the surf break was private and they should leave, multiple times before this happened. In Costa Rica you cannot own the surf of the ocean, so anyone can surf this wake. We think that this was simply a mad local who is tired of having foreigners take over his surfing grounds that he has surfed for years. Which is obviously unacceptable and close minded.
The best way to deal with a situation like this (or avoid it altogether) is to talk it out on the beach with the locals before you go into waves for the first time. No one should ever get attacked over something like this, but common surfer etiquette is to make peace with and get acceptance from the locals before you surf where they do. A community meeting to discuss this event should definitely be in order for Pavones locals and foreigner business owners.
Not really news, but there a ton out there, for example:
Yeah this place has changed a LOT in the past few years. For every 1 machete attack you see on the news 20 go undocumented. There is a real drug problem developing in Pilon just down the road from Pavones. The area is a key drop spot for drug dealers to fly their stuff into Costa and distribute. Its not uncommon to see needles and other drug paraphernalia laying on the beach near the corner. This past summer the the local landmark the Cantina was burnt down due to some sketchy feud going on in town. The place just isn't the same anymore and its easy to understand why. Once your down there your on your own. Few local people actually make money off the traveling surfers and that has forced them to look for other means to make a living like stealing, selling drugs, ripping people off. There are 2 police officers for the entire area and they are likely paid off to look the other way. All that aside, its become such a popular destination that every swell over 5 ft is ridiculously crowded and INFESTED with brazilians. This place is quickly losing its magic and will be lost forever very soon.
I'm taking up outrigger canoe paddling. Much safer.
John, It's at Kuau on the north shore of Maui. I live right there. That is my home brake. It's a pretty good one and gets some size. It's always a good idea to watch the horizon at Nori's especially on a rising swell. Many of us have been caught with our pants down and had a can of WA handed to us.
Note about the image that I wrote a while back."The sesh started out with some delightful waves in the over head range and grew bigger as the day went on. By the end of our sesh we had dropped in on some real bombs! We were also getting clobbered if we were caught on the inside. The larger sets were closing out the right channel and there was nowhere to go. Nori’s on a rising swell can be really serious!
All four of us called it a day when the sets were coming in consistently around triple over head range.
That is way past my comfort zone. Dale’s new board was snapped in two . He had to swim in with half a surfboard."
Well it's transition time here in my neck of the woods. It's time to start to think about generating some income to off set all those days that I blew of work opportunities so I could be on the ocean.
Most of the traveling nomads have left the north shore and have gone home or to other destinations.
Our beach is practically deserted.
Most of the drama is quieted down and injuries are healing.
What a season this has been!
The talk now is south swell!
Pete and I cruised over to take a look at the south shore yesterday but were skunked and didn't even get wet. I am going to look at it today but the web cams are going to have to show some real promise before I make the drive again.
I thought this up date was cool so I thought I would share it.
Aloha , Olaf http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/progression-update-chapter-two_69787/
Just got back from the islands , foot still jacked, no surf for me. My bro enjoyed some fun Pakala and Hanalei. Murry, the only thing I've torn up is my ankel!
Pavones has a long history of violence and was first surfed by the drug dealers . I went there in 1986 and it was pretty mellow since few ex-pats were living there. In 1990 I lived in Bajo Mancito , a small bay near Golfito, building a private fish camp, we would boat to Pavones to surf. A surf camp had started up and many Haoles had moved in and built houses. Lots of problems with sqatters and very crowded line-ups. Haven't been back since. This same senario is repeating itself at breaks all over the world. Edit; Hey JEFE, next time on the Eastside look me up, Cheers
Most of the surfing blogs that I like aren't just about trad surfing they cover the ocean experience. Like my buddy Geampaolo"shttp://mauisurfreport.blogspot.com
I know that I am biased but I like my own ocean blog a lot as well http://mauioceansports.blogspot.com/
That is just a link to the home page and mission statement. If you browse the list of activities you will find that we cover trad surf in addition to
windsurf,kite,SUP,and much more.
Not trying to hijack this thread. Fantastic by the way. Trying to sell a Fish board and wondering if anyone has any websites that would work for me. The usual ones haven't worked, ie Craigslist, Ebay. Thanks. Now back to cragging and slashing.
Here's an amazing story highlighting some history on one of the more famous waves of modern times.
SHIP’S PERIL IN FIJIAN WATERS,1806 by Stephen Cline
In the Naval Library in London is a wing called Admiralty Records. This area contains nearly 300 years of ship’s logs and records of Admiralty proceedings. There is a vast section on courts-martial due to the fact that every time a ship was lost or taken such a proceeding was convened to determine whether the captain had done his utmost to save his ship, or if there had been some dereliction of duty. In the latter instance, a captain could face serious criminal charges. In such cases, all of the ship’s officers would be called before a panel of captains and admirals to testify as to the circumstances in question. One case, dated October 1807, contains among its many, many pages of testimony the following account given by a helms - man, a Mr. Lawrence, aboard the ship in question, HMS Ariel. Her captain (rank of Post Captain) was a G. Parker by name, who was being tried for the loss of his ship off the coast of Australia in a typhoon the previous year. Based on other testimony, it appears that Captain Parker acted admirably, saving almost his entire crew. He was acquitted of negligence and given another command. For our purposes here, though, it is Lawrence’s account that holds interest as a striking anecdote of seamanship and surfing lore (as well as 19th century, naval, colloquial speech). This particular story was told not about the actual wreck of the Ariel, but of a prior event as an example of the captain’s ship-handling skills. What follows is a verbatim transcript as recorded by the two court clerks present.
YOU HA’ HEARD, sirs, already from Lieutenant Furner of the Captain’s steadiness in the engagement with the French Frigate, Rendezvous, off Madagascar. So I’ll tell you of his seamanship, for I ha’ ne’er before nor since seen the like of it.
As you know, we was continuin, as it were, where Cook left off (he bein kilt and all) cruisin and chartin the isles of the South Pacific. Beautiful it were, sirs, I can tell you, but too it were dread dangerous with all uncharted reefs and shoals everywhere a body cast an eye. Why, a ship could fetch dry on coral in the middle of deep blue with not a bit of earth in view from the foretop. And nighttime bein the worst of it, swingin in our hammocks listenin for the breakers over the sound of the bow wave and wind in the riggin. Nervous work to reel off the leagues and be cautiouslike too.
So, we was layin for the Fijis, runnin on Cook’s charts of Vatoa one dark dawn, me at the wheel, a fair breeze near abeam to larboard1 or maybe to forward a few points, fillin fore and main courses, tops’sls and stays’ls. We was rail down some, six or seven knots I recollect at the last throw of the log, with a smooth surface and a good-sized, well-spaced swell runnin with us.
The Captain came on deck, it bein still dark as I said, as often he did in them waters, and he says, “I thought I heard breakers, Mister Lawrence. Is there land about?”
“None I know of, sir,” I told him, though never did I know a man who could so feel the loom of land below the horizon. He called up to the lookout in the fore crosstree who said he saw no sign. So we held course with nary a cinch needed to trim the sails for the next two turns of the glass. Captain musta felt somethin though for he come up on deck again half through the watch and shortened sail some, not much, a pull or two.
Then, by God, I did hear it, and the Captain too at the same time. Almost at the same minute the sky lightened, suddenlike as it does in the tropics, and the lookout he sings out. No doubtin but it were breakers, almost hidden by the sounds I mentioned before, but then suddenly very loud, and as steady as the drummers of the Coldstream Guards, and close, very close. I don’t wince at tellin you sirs, of a sudden I thought we’d founder on coral the way we feared. But Captain he says to me very cool, “Steady as she goes, Mister Lawrence,” and he quickly looks at his spread of canvas, the quarter of the wind, then dashes up the lee side waist riggin, wraps in arms and legs and claps his glass along the line of the reef. Down he scampers, me thinkin there ain’t time for such comins and goins. As it stood, were we to try to come about there was a good chance the yards wouldn’t come round and we’d get caught in stays and broach to in the swell, or else drift on. Were we to try and jibe to leeward we’d likely drive right onto the reef, for it was coming clear that it were rounding off to starboard. Only other thing I could think of was to throw anchor and try to stop headway, and then warp on cables back to sea using the cutter and the launch. None very likely prospects.
But Captain, calm as May on Thames, says, “Steady on, Lawrence, but mark my commands exactly.” “Aye,” says I, startin to break sweat. “All hands aloft, Mister Manson,” he says to the master, who has the bosun, Mister Benson pipe the men up. Such a flurry of feet and hands you never saw, and not a word, sirs. No, every soul down to cabin boy knew we was in a pinch and we’d either drive hard aground or the Captain would sail us safe. It were a disciplined set o men in the riggin, set to do their duty or die tryin. So, when Captain tells Mister Manson to prepare to strike all sails, the master looks at him for half a second like he’d gone stark mad, for as you know better than me, sirs, to strike sail would be as much as to let all help from the wind go by bare poles. But Manson says nothin but “Aye,” and sets me men in a flash ready to swing axes.
By now we can see the backs of the breakers splash high with white water, and the swells are racing up behind us lifting the stern and heaving us forward several knots faster before passing under us. The midshipmen were callin out soundings as fast as they could count knots on the line, the Ariel drawin nigh on two fathom, and me waiting to hear the scrape of her copper covered bottom. Well, all this was happenin faster than I can tell it.
Then the Captain says to me again somewhat frabbit2 “Steady on, Lawrence,” and looks behind us at the comin swells. I dared not look, but I heard him remark, “Ah, the master wave. Good.” Then to me he says, “Steady, steady. Mark my command exact, Mister Lawrence.” “Aye sir,” I says with a shivered voice.
Suddenly a brute wave comes under us and lifts us. It pushes us with it, fast, like a surf dingy runnin up a beach. White water near come over the bowsprit as we’re lifted stern high. Then Captain calls loud, “Hard to windward, 90 degrees,” and I spin the wheel for my life. The ship come right around and the Captain yells, “Strike sail!” Which Mister Manson repeats, but no one needs to hear a second time, for all of us know in an instant that we are coming up into the wind head on and the sails will catch abaft and stop us dead in the water broached with a breaker right abeam. Sails and sheets fly to the wind, and by the time as we come full to larboard the poles are bare.
Meanwhile I’m holdin the spokes as I said for dear life. The Captain steps beside me and latches on too, sayin, “Hold steady’ By God, we’ve got her riding!” The ship had gone right down the face of the wave, turned near 90 degrees to larboard, and now we were speedin across the face parallel, don’t you see. A wondrous sight, sirs, God’s truth! I thought for a moment that the masts would be rolled by the board in the turn, but they held, though they pitched fierce with men hangin on like rats on a hawser.
Well sirs, we raced across that wave at a hull speed that would ha’ set her ship architect’s jaw agape, me an Captain steerin for the deep water channel, while that wave broke and spit right behind us. I damn well...excuse my language, sirs, but it nearly caught us. I swear the curl came for an instant right over the poop where we was standin and I ducked a little. But Captain he stood straight, starin at the safe shoulder of the wave like it were Christ himself out there callin his name.
And the Lord must love ’im, for soon enough we come skitterin out onto the gentle slope, hearts in our mouths, and he calls out, “Hard to larboard, set jibs then spanker!” And we come turning out over the top of that wave, the wind now instead of bein dead on ahead is off our starboard bow. The jibs open, bringing her further around and we gradually slow to a two-knot starboard tack in deep water, as pretty as kiss my hand. It were a sight, I say sirs, a sight.
The Captain steps away from the wheel and says to Manson and me, “Steer us further into the channel and hove to off that island ahead.” The men aloft suddenly lets out a cheer you coulda heard clear to Portsmouth.
A few minutes later, we was at anchor, knotting and splicing the cup up lines, nary a scratch on Ariel’s bottom. The Captain says to me, and I’ll never forget it, “Fine helmsman- ship, Lawrence, fine.” Tickled I was, though still shook I must say, for, forgettin my place, I asked, “How did you know to do such a thing, sir?” He smiled and said, “I was Lieutenant with Cook in ’79 in the Sandwich Isles, and I saw the natives ride the waves on planks just so.”
Then he walked to the taffrail and watched the shore- line of the beautiful, little island we’d fetched up to. Some natives were coming out in dugouts. They seemed mighty enthusiastic too, seein us surf our ship round that reef. Generous folk they were too, bringing out coconuts and the like. which we ate as if we was clemmed3. They called their pretty little isle Tava Ruah. Aye sirs, Captain Parker can handle a ship.
left side of ship facing forward, opposite starboard, modern usage: port 2—frabbit: Lancaslcrshire dialect, irritated, short of palienee 3—clemmed: Lancastershire dialect, starving
If you believe that Stephen Cline story of square-rigged surfing from 1806, let me tell you about the time Kelly and I were the only ones out at Teahupoo. A massive set wave comes and I say to Kelly, "Go!", but he says, "No, it's yours!"...
Wow, I'm about to head to Yosemite for a week and this thread is messing with that idea! Especially that last photo Pyro! I could be there damnit!!! I could just go to Jalama (no idea where you photo is) for a week and have a blast, get some fishing in, walk peacefully for miles.................. what to do?!?!?!?!?!?
I am pretty sure many kyakers do that(i'm not a kyaker, but it looks fun).
I have also seen surfers(in surf magazine pics)surfing similar river 'waves' on surfboards. One was in Alaska, and one time it was in the Southern Hemisphere somewhere, perhaps Indo(& fairly recently).
What's this? The women climbers back then weren't hot? Have you ever looked at Liz Robbins? You're telling me Lynn Hill isn't pretty?
On what planet? All I can think of is that girl named Lauren who died climbing in the Black Canyon in 1978. She was intensely beautiful. She died a climber, she died because she liked to climb. How rude of you to sweepingly remark that there were no hotties in climbing.There were.
If we took the same woman and showed her to you first in climbing clothes, or what passed for them back then, and showed you the same woman in a bikini, you, being a man, are going to find the woman in the bikini more attractive. That is just the way you are wired.
In fact, this proves, once again, that men are ruled by their hormones, and cannot actually see past the end of their dicks.
Climbing satisfies my inner urge for problem solving, comraderie, risk and reward, physical and mental challenge, and being oudoors in beautiful places.
A lifelong passion.
Surfing is just plain fun!
Nah, it's much more than that.
Whatever the f*#k it is I'm jonesing!
South swell and warm water, my favorite points, driving 80 on the salt flats, hoping the solar panels make it, waiting for the AFTERNOON offshores(!!!???), firing up the bapper for a surf check, smell of sunscreen, getting a ride back up the point on a dune buggy while chugging a beer, getting barrelled, or riding the tip loaded , burning your bro and doing over/unders, trimming or cutting the fins loose, limes, minus tides, nipple rash, faceplants, hunger, gouging, fading, pushing a local kid in, floating , making the section, wondering how long the ride actually was- my hair is dry, fresh corn tortillas, saying "GO!", falling asleep early and krispy, underground stinky stashes, laughing, roaches under the umbrella, bottom turns!!!, sunsets, hoots and kooks, not giving a shît, hauling ass, courderoy, pearling borrowed 10 footers, swimming, connectors, longboarder chick butts, rock hard sandbanks, giving one away, easy takeoffs, melting wax, smile aches, tired legs, no cord, being the deepest, wanting to never go home, checkpoints, slow semis, dicey passes, wanting to go back.
Wanting to go back.
Wanting to go back.
I guess I'll order a new pair of moccasyms and head up the mountain.
This thread rocks! Any one just finding it should start at the beginning. There's some excellent material up thread.
I think we have done a stellar job of dodging the trolls so far.
Whatever the f*#k it is I'm jonesing!
You and me both Cuz!
After a long and intense winter here on the north shore the summer doldrums have set in. Lately you can't find a wave of any significance on any side of this island other than maybe on the east side and that's wind swell and a very long drive for the day. Fortunately I have landed some good work right here on the beach so I can ride my bike the block and a half to and from work and keep my mind occupied till the south swells start kicking in and hopefully that will be soon.
It's very windy on the ocean at the present and I can walk to the beach and wind surf after work any day that I want, but with out waves it is somewhat uninspiring.
BTW: drljefe, Those were some great words as usual!
Does anyone have any pics of bodysurfing? I was a swimmer in high school and college and never felt comfortable on a board. I liked being in the water. Though looking at that earlier video of a pipeline bodysurfing contest made me remember that slamming the bottom of a wave was part of why my back is so messed up.. haha. I doubt that I could get it to bend that far anymore. Still love the water though.
Thanks for those photos. My favorite surfing photos are ones with both land and sea in the frame. E.g. o-man's and one of drljefe's middle ones (Trestles?). Oh and surfing photos of difficult boulder problems in the desert are cool, too.
When will the next round/heat be? I had it on at 7:30 their time(12:30 our time)and nothing was going on. Just said surf was 3-4 feet, a bit of a drop from the day before. Some great waves there at Cloud Break. A nice section that they are all getting barraled in. Looks like that lip is coming down hard and wacking a few of the guys. Exciting wave. So is it going to happen tomorrow? Or when the surf picks up?
I surfed two great sessions over on the west side of Maui yesterday.Sesh one started out a bit crowded but it thinned out after about an hour so the next hour and a half I took any wave that appealed to me. The right handers were really working well.
I started to get tired and paddled in rinsed off with the fresh water that I brought,put my board away and jut chilled out for a moment.
Then Trever and Mark showed up so I paddled back out with them and boy am I glad I did. I only got one wave in the second sesh but it was the best wave of the day.
The reports say that the surf is still up so I'm heading back over this morning and then watching the Volcom Fiji Pro in the afternoon.
BTW: It's supposed to get giant for the contest and we are hoping to get some of that swell in a few days.
The surf was even better yesterday. I got so many shoulder to head high waves that I was paddled out after three hours. There were just the right amount of surfers out and everyone got a bunch of waves without sharing. I gave so many waves away and still had my pick of the set waves.
I then bought some beer and went home and watched the Volcom Fiji Pro with my friend Mark.
It was a good day!
I surfed another three hour session yesterday in similar conditions although a bit smaller than the two previous days. I went home and watched the Volcom Pro contest from Fiji again.
After three days in a row I am about paddled out but the live video feed from "Lahaina Break Wall" shows more of the same for today.
What to do?
We have a significant south swell heading our way and it should arrive a.m. Tuesday and I have the day off.
I am thinking that I should rest and try to let my paddle muscles and sunburn recover. But I will probably surf again today but maybe not as long.
Today is the final day of the contest in Fiji. It starts out with Kelly Slater in the first heat so check it out. The the link is posted up thread.
So far this event has produced some of the best surfing that I have ever seen and is not to be missed. With the sheer volume of great waves and the talent I wont be surprised if this turns into a one hellova feature film!
Any talk about the 2012 Fiji Pro has to mention day 3 when the event was called off for being too "windy" for the best pro surfers in the world.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The last 2 minutes of this video is after they called off the contest.
Kelly thanks for posting up the video. I watched the event every day after surfing some great waves myself.
I missed the day at "Cloud Break" before they moved it to "Restaurants" when the judges and committee deemed it too big to compete. Many of my friends that did see it say it was the single best day of surfing that they ever saw. The best surfers in the world paddling into some of the biggest barrels imaginable!
As I mentioned up thread that swell is forcasted to arrive on our south and west shores tomorrow A.M. I'm really stoked and hoping that my favorite breaks will hold the size with out just closing out witch is often the case.
The spots that can hold a swell of that size get very busy.
One thing that differs, for me, with climbing and surfing...
When something heavy was going down in my life, I'd go surfing.
Call it avoidance, call it procrastination, call it healing.
It was all of the above at different times, and sometimes all together.
I was working in a coffee shop in Dana Point and got a call from my Mom. I instantly felt a disturbance in the force. She didn't need to say it, I already knew. My long lost father had passed away. I had only seen him once since he left when I was ten.
My boss told me to split, so I did, and headed straight down to Trestles on my bike.
Uppers was grey and glassy and chest high waves were hitting the point at a nice angle.
Best of all, there was no one out(???!!! believe me here) and i had a freshly waxed up new board.
It was a very emotional session.
As I waited for waves I stared out at the horizon, knowing my father knew the area well and had sailed the channel countless times. I realized then that we shared a common love for the sea. He was part of me.
When waves would come I put my new board to the test. Winding up and punching. Gouging, pumping, smacking. I was surfing aggressively.
I let out so much anger that I hadn't expressed.
I proved to him I had become a man, a strong man, gotten good at something...without him, but hopefully I could make him proud.
I felt him there, I really did. And it was like the first conversation I had with him as an adult.
When I would kick out in the bay tears would be streaming down my cheeks.
I surfed my heart out. Literally.
Tonight is a night I wish I could go down to the point, alone, and surf my heart out.
The desert is hot, and even if it wasn't, a boulder circuit just wouldn't cut it.
Sitting on top of the boulder and watching the sunset would be nice- introspective and healing. Not climbing, though.
Something's just not the same as salt water therapy.
Edit: sorry to get all heavy or be a downer. Surfing and climbing are supposed to be FUN.
THEY ARE FUN!!!
(and hopefully it'll be offshore, and crackin', and the tide'll be right, and there'll be no one out, and your back will feel good, and your board'll be workin good-- for all you fakkas lucky enough to be close to the ocean.)
Sh#t, I've resorted to looking into buying a wrongboard. Whenever I have time and want to surf, there's no damn waves. Might have to go down that route to ensure I can get wet when its small. Worst part, they sell used for what a custom shortboard goes for new :-/
Dave , Do you mean like this beauty? Only I got mine a little longer ( I'm don't get to surf as much) It paddles real NICE!!! Also the quad is way positive on the bottom turn - more than a twin IMO. Yes, a true rocket ship!!!! I don't own a "wrongboard"
I have a 5'9 plank of a fish, but I'm talking for the 1-2' on-the-sets days; more waves = more fun and a log might be in my future. A fish is still diminishing returns on those days for me - too much work for what you get back. A noserider seems eminent with summer here.
and I'm usually so anti-logging, you could call me a tree-hugger.
When I moved to Hawaii about 12 years ago I had never ridden a long board before and never even considered it but as soon as I did my whole experience changed dramatically for the better. I am afraid my short board days are over and there might just be an 8'6" + or- SUP in my future due to the growing numbers of them at most of the breaks that I frequent and especially my local back yard wave Noriega's where often in the winter I will be the only lay down paddler in a group of more than a dozen. I have not crossed over yet ,but, the thought is in the back of my mind a lot.
Gotta have a longboard around- for the get wet, at least.
Tiny point waves? Priceless.
That's about it though, for me at least.
One "accidental" mysto longboard session at the beachbreak...
Didn't check it, knew it was glassy and small, really small, and just wanted the empty evening rinse off.
It ended up being the super inconsistent fake out, for those who checked it.
This wave usually doesn't allow you in early no matter what kind of board. It was different this time.
To be able to set up so easily for the tube was just so f*#king fun. Effortless. Fade off the bottom, set rail, zing! !!
Backlit green racers.
The feeling of having so much rail on the face, no pumping, just picking a line, was unreal.
The spot. Different day.
F*#kin a I miss it right now.
Surgical strike coming soon. Necessary.
HEY, I must have posted the link before, can't post it now, but...
Youtube "Aloha Travis"
Do me the honor of watching it, and tell me what you think.
There's some good surfing in there.
I miss my bro, too, right now.
Here's a "mysto" longboard session. We were in Nor-Cal and had checked the south jetty on Humbolt bay. It was pretty small so we headed to Centerville beach to check the beach break. I figued it would be small also so I just took a longboard ( I used to own a few). We show up at centerville and it's pumping. Oh well, I go for it on the longboard. It's overhead and tubing , I get a few unreal barrells as well as get pitched over the falls on several. (servere beatings!!) My last wave I went for a left an grabbed the rail. I was locked in but knew I was'nt comming out . I dove off into the barrell and as I'm flying I can see my board fade under the lip and get detonated into oblivion. That was the last longboard I owned. RIP :)
We've settled into a weak summer pattern around here and forecast be damned I was still excited for a solo surf day afield on Monday. The swell wasn't promising at home or on the drive but enough was obscured by fog to allow me to suspend reason, hope for the best and keep driving to a favorite spot. 1:15 from my front door.
Fickle conditions and the challenge of predicting/chasing surf even on a local level can be so interesting and frustrating at the same time. Maybe more like ice than rock in reading ice conditions, getting to know a particular flow over time...enjoying the movement and focus in that place regardless of the conditions and our expectations.
We had about a week of quality south swell a week back that I mentioned up thread. The last day of that run was just amazing in that I got three hours of near glass,uncrowded, shoulder to head high surf on the west side.
Then I drove back home to the north shore and wave sailed some (out of season) logo to near mast high NW with a bit of east wind swell mixed in with a few of my regular gang till nearly dark.
I had to go back to work for nine days but scored several nice wave sailing sessions here at Kuau after work.
We have a new south swell that has been going off for the past couple of days and is forecast to drop some in size and that might be good since my favorite west side break starts to close out when it gets much over solid head. The swell is predicted to hold for a while longer and I have some days off so I'm hitting the road as soon as I get a couple of domestic issues out of the way.
Since this is both a surfing and Climbing thread I thought I would share a climbing story and then go get some more of those delightful waves over on the west side. The past two days the surfing over there has been brilliant!
Maurice Reed and I were on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle back in the spring of 84 when he pointed out a steep face on a rock formation over toward Sunshine Wall. The face had three crack systems on it and one of them went right up the middle.
Maurice said to me, (in his thick southern drawl) “Ma’an, we gotta climb that thang!”
Several people that we contacted said they had been looking at it and thought it looked really cool, but, nobody that we could find, had actually tried it.
We went on a reconnaissance hike and scouted a route through the massive boulders at the base of the formation. We also scoped the face with binoculars. Along with a healthy bush that was growing out of the crack I noticed an old tattered rap sling about 1/3 way up the second pitch. Maurice said,”Ma’an, I sure hope that sling was left by some ole aid climber when he bailed off the thing?”
A few days later we returned with leather gloves, tree loppers, a saw, and a crow bar. With this equipment we chopped, cut, stomped and trundled our way to the base of the climb. We had to negotiate dense anti-personal bushes, downed trees, and several large and very loose boulders. With all the obstacles we encountered, it was obvious that no one had been in this gully in many years or, maybe ever.
Maurice and I drove back down to Foxton a week later. We parked in our usual spot. I stashed some beer in the river while Maurice sorted the climbing gear. We then shouldered our packs and walked down the road a ways before we crossed over the old barbed wire fence. We marched past the symmetrically cut Rose Granite slabs, steel cables and other equipment that was abandoned when the rock quarry operation shut down decades earlier. We then headed up the, steep, gravel hillside through stands of aspen, needle sharp yucca plants, blooming cactus and patches of kininnikinnick. When we took the occasional rest break we could hear the Platte River as it blended harmoniously with the wind rushing through the Ponderosa Pines and spreading their thick scent of butterscotch. In those days there were only game trails in the Cathedral Spires and we usually took a different route each time.
Once we were at the base of the climb, Maurice led the first pitch up to a large belay ledge. He made it look easy although it involved some of the hardest moves on the entire climb.
The belay ledge was littered with loose rocks. We trundled most of them before attempting the next pitch. (Ah, the sight, sounds, and smells of granite boulders gaining momentum on their way to the valley below!) My dog “Beau” was at the base and he just wouldn’t “STAY or SIT!” like I told him to. Beau was running excitedly all over the place. He thought we were playing some sort of game. Maurice said” Ma'an, he’ll get out of the way, believe me, he’ll get out of the way!” It’s luckily for Beau that he didn’t get clobbered by one of those non- guided projectiles!
Pitch two was my lead. It started off as a continuously difficult but well protected finger crack that lead up to a steep, poorly protected, lay back section. I had trouble committing to those moves with the marginal gear that I had in. I could see the sequence that I needed to make but my strength was draining fast.
I was really getting pumped and there was no natural rest to be found. After several tries I was completely exhausted so I down climbed to my last good gear placement. Maurice then lowered me back to the belay ledge.
Maurice was now chomping at the bit to give this pitch a go. We quickly switched the belay over and I handed him the rack. He charged up to my high point and got really pumped trying to commit to those poorly protected moves.
I could tell Maurice was frustrated as he down climbed to the last piece of gear. Reluctantly, he clipped in and tied off and yelled,”Ma’an , send me the pins and a hammer”. Although he was tied off he refused to hang on the protection any more than he had to while we negotiated the gear transfer. Maurice climbed back up to our high point and put in two solid pitons without hanging. Getting those pins in proved to be very tiring. It would have compromised his ethics to hang on the gear while he regenerated, so, he had me lower him all the way down to the belay ledge
With the rest I got while belaying, and the security of the pitons Maurice placed, I gained the strength and confidence I needed to pull through those steep, committing layback moves. This put me at the start of the elegant and slightly overhanging hand sized crack in the head wall.
With the layback section out of the way all seemed straight forward. That is, until I encountered a completely detached spike that can only be described as the tip of a miniature pinnacle. There was no way around this gnarly feature. The spike actually moved when I touched it. I didn’t dare put any outward force on it!
I had some decent gear right below my feet but nothing any higher. I had a solid foot jam for a stance. I yelled down to Maurice,” Dude, move the belay as far over to the right as possible and, Watch Out! OK?”
His response was “ Ma’an, I am as far over as I can get! And YOU better watch out your own self!”
With no other holds to use I mantled, and stood up ever so carefully on the tip of that detached spike! I was trembling after I completed those delicate moves! Fortunately, there was a great nut placement just as I stood up and put all my weight on the point of the spike. I moved up quickly and got some good hand and foot jams. I then leaned out from the rock and looked down at Maurice and said “Dude that was Dicey!” I can’t imagine what it would have been like if that teetering block had come off while I was attempting that sketchy mantle move!
Next was what turned out to be some of my all time favorite moves in the Platte. The elegant and overhanging headwall proved to be well protected, strenuous, thin hand jamming all the way up to a semi-hanging belay stance!
While seconding the pitch Maurice jettisoned that dangerous block. This created a great rest stance before the steep and continuous crack climbing at the end of the pitch.
As we set up the rappel anchors, I said to Maurice,” Dude, what do you want to name it?” He thought for a second and said “Well, Ma’an, we’re both from Mississippi so let’s call it Mississippi Half Step!”
From the top of the Half Step we noticed a steep rippling face on the formation across the gully toward Cynical Pinnacle. Maurice said,” Ma’an we gotta climb that!”
Maurice and I had been putting up some steep friction climbs over on Snake buttress in traditional, ground up, style.
This face was long, blank, and real steep. It had a number of sloping features that looked as though they might be stances that we could drill bolts from.
Once again the approach was blocked by large loose boulders and the ever present thorn bushes(A.P.B.s) so again we had our work cut out for us, just getting to the base of the climb.
For this climb we were armed with only a hammer, a hand drill, and 1.5”x1/4” expansion bolts.
It was our usual style on these type climbs to swap the lead after each bolt placement.
The climb was going just as we thought it would .We would delicately climb away from the safety of our last bolt placement making steep friction moves that were close to the point of repose. Each section ended with a thin and technical, mantle move. Once we made the mantle and gained our vertical balance, (using only the friction of the rubber of our (EB) climbing shoes against the granite), on one of those less steep bumps. We would then pull out the hand drill and hammer and start the long tedious process of drilling a hole in the granite face. We would then pound in the expansion bolt from the sloping stance.
After the third bolt, I climbed up a steep section of micro- flakes that ended in a mantle move at a difficulty of about 5.11. I drilled and hammered in bolt from the steep stance and then had Maurice lower me back to the base.
On Maurice’s try, a critical flake disintegrated while he was pulling through on it. We were so bummed because without that flake, our climb became a whole lot harder! We pulled the rope through our top bolt and tried to lead the section again and again. We each took several substantial pendulum falls and our finger tips were starting to bleed so we gave up it up and called it a day.
We swiftly skied the loose gravel mountain side down to the valley where we had some of our favorite beverage stashed in the icy river. We sat on the tail gate and enjoyed some much needed refreshment, and reflected on the day’s efforts. We absorbed the view of the Cathedral Spires as last rays of sun hit Cynical Pinnacle along with the sounds of the raging Platte River and the comradely of two best friends! We were well into our beverages and completely blissed out when were approached by a climber that appeared out of nowhere. He seemed friendly enough and looked thirsty. Maurice said Ma’an, you want a beer?” He accepted the offer so we shared the tail gate and our cold beer with him as we name dropped and swapped climbing stories. The conversation eventually turned to bolting. The guy said that he had been up at The Dome and he had been chopping the bolts on a route that had been placed on rappel. He stated that he intended to chop all the bolts in the Platte that had been placed on rappel! When Maurice heard this fellows bold statement he looked the guy in the eye and said, “Ma’an, I don’t Rap bolt, BUT, if I did, and you were to chop ANY of MY bolts, and I found out about it, I’d find out where you lived and slash your tires!” And, I personally believe, he meant it!
Maurice moved away soon after that first attempt and our climb was unfinished business. I vowed to wait until Maurice returned but I became impatient.
I enlisted the help of Noel Childs to work on the route with me. I was able to climb that section on my next try.
With the crux section climbed Noel was stoked to finish the pitch. He was bummed when I stated that I wanted to wait a couple of months until Maurice returned to Colorado to finish the pitch that we started. Noel was not pleased but he agreed reluctantly.
When Maurice did return we finished the first pitch in one push. We named the climb Mr. Mantle since there were so many wild mantle moves on that pitch.
The second pitch was steep but relatively moderate hand and fist crack that the late Catherine Freer and I did on a beautiful spring day not long before her tragic accident.
Well the wonderful south swell has dropped of to near nothing and now wave sailing in my back yard is the only show in town.
I enjoyed a delightful solo sesh two days ago.
Yesterday my neighbor Tom and I rode some real gems until near dark.
I came in first and went home and put some beer in a cooler and went back to the beach and enjoyed a spectacular Maui sunset sitting on the log, talking story, and having an Ice clod PBR with Tom.
truth be told, i love the solitude that paddling out at sunrise brings, and the smell of sticky bumps in the morning. something about dolphins peeking up to say hi, and pelicans dive bombing the nearby school of fish.
also, it's much more acceptable to pee while surfing than climbing. that's surely a quick way to go "off belay".
Kazuma surfboards Hawaii
Tip#3 Great surfing revolves around a good bottom turn. Plain and simple, if you have a solid bottom turn, surfing becomes easy. A good bottom turn will take you from the bottom of the wave to the top in one continuous arc and when done correctly, you will accelerate from start to finish of the turn. This acceleration creates explosive surfing and will allow you to link together all your moves with speed and flow. Haven’t you ever wondered how these 100 lb groms can be so explosive and powerful? They all most certainly have a good bottom turn. Key points: 1) start your bottom turn early, don’t go too far down into the flat of the wave. Going down into the flat will take you out of the curve of the wave and you won’t be able to make it all the way back to the lip in one continuous arc. 2) Your weight has to be balanced between your feet, if anything a Little front foot weighted. 3) bend your knees and get LOW while putting weight on your toes.(or heel) This will get your board on it’s rail which will give you that nice long arc. 4) Don’t rush, a good bottom turn takes time. Let it flow and you will accelerate through the turn. 5) Don’t push too hard. If you are slowing down, you are probably pushing too hard. Soften up and you will gain speed and power. http://www.criticalbench.com/exercises/dumbbell-squat.htm Dumbbell squats are the best exercise to get your bottom turn stance dialed in. This is the correct position to be in during your bottom turn. I do these every other day to make that position feel natural and it helps keep me properly weighted and balanced over my board. Go out and try this and remember, don’t rush the bottom turn.
Once again you can't buy a decent wave on any side of this island.
Yesterday I drove my truck the 4.5 miles down the coast to Kanaha Beach Park and left it there with a cooler with refreshments in it.
I jumped on my cruiser bike and bucked the stiff 19-25 mph head wind back to my place in Kuau.
I then grabbed my 4.4m sail and 78ltr wave board and walked to my local launch and rigged.
I sailed solo down the coast taking my time taking in the dynamic view while dodging sea turtles and spooking flying fish while riding clean open ocean wind swell all the way down to Kanaha.
It was cool to be out on the ocean with just my rig and board shorts and nothing else.
It was fun having a beer and great conversation with my pals that were there before I loaded my kit and headed back home.
Today looks much the same so there's a good chance that i might just do another coast run today.
I'm STOKED by Glen James forecast for the next few days!
"There should be a new southwest swell during the day Monday…followed by a larger south-southwest swell Tuesday, both lasting for several days. This second SSW swell may prompt a high surf advisory into Thursday."
I'm not sure but I think that I am probably not working through this period.
The west side has delivered the goods for the past three days!
On the first day of this swell it was real big closing out when I arrived. As the tide filled in a bit conditions got better. I surfed a full three and a half session with mostly friends in the water.
I got some monumental rides that day. A couple of the right hander’s are in competition for the single best wave rides of the season.
On the second day I scored another great session of what turned out to be brilliant over head surf.
The wind was messing the texture up and it really looked like junk from the road but the rides we were getting were excellent! The crappy appearance was all it took to keep the crowds away.
It seems like the second day of a swell rarely goes as well as the first. I typically paddle myself out the first day and so I am paddling with considerably less power. More than that my timing was off that day and I blew a number of steep take offs. All In all, It was a good day of surfing with good people and plenty of waves.
The forecast was favorable for the swell to hold for yet another good day and intended to get a relatively early start and have a long perhaps double dip session.
My plans to go surf early morning were interrupted by a desperate phone call from the wind surf school that I am affiliated with. They had over booked a lesson and the instructor that was scheduled that day was wigging out and he was about to blow a gasket.
I told Karen (WSM’s business manager) to call R.C. (the instructor) and tell him, ”The cavalry was on the way!”
Things were a bit hectic at the beach but I calmed R.C. down enough to get through the two and a half hour seven person (beginner 101) lesson with satisfactory results.( All the while R.C. was still really upset.)
I got away from that bad energy situation as fast as I could and drove straight to the west side.
When I arrived at Woody’s there were only seven people out and it was consistent, glassy, shoulder to head high waves.
As I was about to paddle out two of my buddies were coming in and they were really stoked about their session.
Now there were only five other people and myself. I chose to surf with three Hawaiians two guys and a very attractive young woman named Sierra. We all had a great time trading waves and talking story.
It wasn’t long before the two dudes went in and then it was Sierra, me and two stand up guys. The stand up guys were killing it on the right hand inside reform. They were not in our lineup zone at all. It wasn’t long before the SUPer’s split.
That left Sierra and me with all those nice waves. It was delightful swapping stories and surfing with her. Often a set would come when one of us was in the middle of a story and we would both take off on the same peak one going right and one going left. When we paddled back out we would pick up the conversation where we left off.
This amazing soul surfing session went on until nearly sunset.
On my way home I it was firing at a fast little break that rarely goes off. The light was good so I stopped and shot a couple of photos.
o-man that sign's not right, it forgets -- most important talk story time.
I worked with a group of mechanics from Hawaii in the seventies. I don't remember getting anything done in the shop, but I did ship a lot of parts to Hawaii. It seemed like each part took three phone calls, 1 to ask if we had something they needed 2 talk story even though I told them I would call asap 3 me calling them with part in hand or not & talk story they called & told me earlier.
Man they would get pissed about being told they couldn't sleep on the beach on the mainland. Couple times a week those stories were told over & over all day. Off the phone from one story in to the shop to rehear this mornings story. What they ate for snacks would be three squares & a snack for me. Man those guys were a lot of fun.
Good story FRUMY! It does take longer around here to get things done because folks really like to talk a lot. I sometimes come across as a bit rude when I'm trying to get things done in a timely fashion and people want to shoot the breeze.
I did another of those fun down wind coast runs yesterday and may just do another one today. I rode some delicious clean open ocean wind swells that just put a big smile on my face.
Here's a photo of my buddy Giampaolo on his last session in Indo this season.
BTW: check out today's action at the Billabong Pro At J-Bay http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay12/videos-view-gb/day-1-highlights-part-1http://[/url]
This is some sick surfing click on videos for today recap action and follow tomorrows action live in the morning.
I have seen endless amount of Teahupo’o video and this is by far the best. And so important that it was slowed down so far. Shot with ultra high speed camera equipment. Huge improvement. What a day that was; so glassy. The nitty-gritty problem of actually staying on the wave is really clear, over and over again. It just gets TOO hollow often and there is this terrible strategy of riding the power but keeping just a tiny bit ahead of it but not too far ahead, out in the flats and dying. Amazing and thanks!
While I was on the dawnie program off and on, I was always partial to the evening session.
Lots of greedy surfers for both timeslots.
I just love the backlit jade green, easy on the eyes when riding, rinse away the day aspect of the evening.
Same goes for bouldering. Can't really even imagine bouldering in the morning.
Of course, some of my most memorable sessions have been in the morning...
Often times better conditions, but that damn glare...
More barrels in the morning, able to laugh your way through a sh¡tty day at work, and just a plain killer way to start the day. ..
Fvck. I dunno...
Come to think of it, when i was on the "State Surf Team", the midday sesh was always good and uncrowded.
You know what?
It's all good.
I feel lucky just to be a surfer and a climber.