Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?

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socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Randy Leavitt once said in a short article that the best day surfing was better than the best day climbing...

My piece on it: the ratio of time spent climbing on a climbing trip is greater than the time spent actually standing on a board on a surf trip of same duration.

For me on the coast I can sneak in a surf in the morning before work, to do that with climbing I usually have to gym it...

At the end of this mornings session though I had about 5 waves, 2 of which were memorable and overall I felt like telling people I had gone out to work on my paddling rather than surfing...

Charles
dmons

climber
Jan 29, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
entirely different pursuits
stone isnt a fluid in terms of mortals

were still arguing how hard 9a climbed 20 years ago really are

you cant take two pictures of waves which are the same




go-B

climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
Jan 29, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
With both you don't want to fall at the lip!
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 29, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
I love surfing, I love climbing. ...so yes.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Jan 29, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
Both leave you with a deep appreciation of nature....both suck when crowded
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jan 29, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
surfing is fun.
climbing is fun.

sufing has better looking women....
climber chick's are...overall just not nice.


i've had the same fun both surfing and climbing in the same day!


the rock is always there so climbing is better is not a good enuff excuse.
Mondos
Pitas point.
County line
Frumy is going for it.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 29, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
I'm a far better climber than I am a surfer, but there is something to surfing that keeps bringing me back.

Now, billygoating into a chute filled with waist deep fluff, making the turn and blasting out into the bowl at sixty? That is truly sublime, and I don't suck at it like I do at surfing.

Surfing rules.
Climbing rules.
Difficult skiing rules.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
I think this morning I was struck by the risk differences v. payoff and the amount of time engaged in the actual act... both are meaningless in most respects when thought of from a survival perspective, but in a mental health standpoint I think the are both invaluable... and when I just try to have a singular activity boredom sets in... I like the comment about surfing being more fluid/harmonious with the natural environment (at least the activity itself is, the surf industry as a whole could use some cleanliness...)

as far as access is concerned: I have to drive further to climb, but I know the rock is good, this morning time spent driving was half of our session... can't surf where its flat... suppose you can't climb where its flat either...


Charles
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 29, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
head high in Santa Cruz, I'll be enjoying the waves tomorrow! And hitting up castle rock state park for bouldering on the way home. Whoop whoop phuck yea!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jan 29, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
it's hitting pretty good at c-street which is near the patagonia shop.

nice thread charles.

reminds me of the video 180 south!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
The more I think about it the less I buy the fluidity argument, water sports are fluid by default, but watching a truly adept climber, one whose technique allows fluid movement over a decidedly solid substance, is as moving as watching a surfer with similar skills... likewise being the climber or surfer who can move with little interruption over rock is amazing and feels very similar in my opinion (of course this argument negates the speed factor).

Charles

We were at asilomar sb earlier and the variety of surfers was great, some into power, some into the real open soft turn and glide of the line... others falling over themselves trying to understand just how the hell you stand up...
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
Follow-up to nab #13 - rather watch a climbing film or surfing film? Ten years ago I would have said surf, but climbing films are getting very good.

Charles
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 29, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
the 4 S club:

Surf
ski
stone
sex
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 29, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
only 4? What about skating, swearing, sweeping, singing. Yeah we do all that stuff round here, call ourselves the 24 S club. Were pretty rad.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 29, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
Karo , you are rad! But the 4 S are the ones that you: will quit your job, blow-off loved ones , sell your soul, but hey if you feel that way about square- dancing, all the power to ya!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
@ Dave,

1 - can I come with you at some point?
2 - can't tell the size of the wave in the first picture, but the form is great!

@ Wes,
Golf was how I got out of tradition PE in high school, they wouldn't have a surf team and I had no idea climbing could be a competitive sport at that point...


Charles
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Dave,
seriously fun stuff, now that I look close I can see a bit of board sticking out of that glassy barrel! Mexico? or farther south?

Charles
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 29, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
Surfing was absolutely essential to my climbing by 1968. The cardiovascular nature of the surfing in waves over five feet really feeds right into what you need for climbing: terrific cardio power. Similarly, paddling built up muscle sets mostly the same as those used for pulling down.

I have to agree with Randy Leavitt's quote at the beginning in that the best day surfing is better than the best day climbing. However, I can say my best days climbing will stand forever while my best days surfing have long since completely utterly vanished.

That most wave rides are only a matter of seconds, literally is both a beautiful and miraculous thing but also underlines how ephemeral rides and perhaps thus a life in surfing really are.

Climbing is often so painful; I don't remember any pain at all in surfing other than running out of breath and burning big time in desperate paddles avoiding the big unexpected cleanup sets in big surf.

Mixing the two sports has been going on for about fifty years now.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 29, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
Nuthin like a good dredger.
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Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jan 29, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
^^^ Where is that!? Near a pier!!!? That looks like quite a few people scratching for some thrills.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 29, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 29, 2012 - 10:10pm PT

yea small days can be fun
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jan 29, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
The problem with climbing is it is a constant fight. You must always fight against the constant pull of gravity. As climbers, we develop our whole climbing 'careers' around this. It becomes engrained.

Surfing (and other gravity sports) are the exact opposite. You must literally let go and give in to the force of gravity. Once you are riding it is no longer a struggle or fight.

Great compliments I suppose.

I also like that after a day of surfing you end up CLEANER than when you started.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 29, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
I agree with some of what Peter said, however...

Surfing and climbing are my two favorite things in the whole wide world.

For me, though, they are not "complimentary". At least not when surfing is the primary gig.
When I lived on the coast, walking distance from some of California's best waves, there was no way in hell you could get me to go climbing. I didn't want to miss something.
Catching the points before the hordes, or checking the beachie repeatedly and watching it go from crap to a draining uncrowded wonderland....that sh¡t took time and dedication. Not to mention developing enough skills to get waves in a crowded lineup at a marquee break, or be able to actually ride when the beachbreak is draining and breaking boards. Couldn't really be "bothered" with the thought of leaving the coast to climb.
Ok, maybe once in a while, when it was genuinely flat and scheduled to stay that way, a run to Woodson, Tahquitz, Black Mtn or Josh was great. But my fingers were made of water, no real serious climbing.

Surfing was way more addicting.
When the medium for your enjoyment wasn't always there, or could change instantly, I wanted to be onnit. After all, that's why i lived there and put up with all the bs socal can offer.

Now, though, living in the desert stoked as hell on climbing, I jones for a proper surf. I'd pass up a climbing trip for a Midnight rambler surgical strike for a day and a half (hopefully) of surf anyday. I have lost my paddle power but luckily the rest is like riding a bike now, but only after 12 years of surfing everyday.

I dunno. I'm babbling. I just had a great bouldering session but maybe it's time for some saltw#ter therapy.
My project will still be there...but will my callouses?


Edit
The only time i climbed and surfed in the same day was sick. Santa Ana low humidity at Rainbow, low tide backlit mysto barrels at Oside jetty. That's livin right there!


drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 29, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 29, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
KW-
"I haven't done that in way too long"

Maybe we should change that.

Jonesing for both.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Jan 29, 2012 - 11:42pm PT

both good!

(for me) An awesome surf session beats a day at the crag. Way less frequent. More rare to get.

But climbing is steady and it's easier to score.

Every day of climbing is good. Just show up.
Not every day of surfing is good. Wind, tide, swell. More fickle.

Both will stoke you for sure.

They partner well together. If it's flat, go climbing!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 30, 2012 - 12:32am PT
Hey brah I'm from earth too!

Lived in S. San Clemente.


Edit:
Surfing is the only thing to make me leave my gear in storage 400 miles away.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Jan 30, 2012 - 12:42am PT

Being tall generally helps with climbing for me, but sure does make it hard to get barreled on smaller days.

Making crazy faces sure does seem to help though
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 30, 2012 - 01:46am PT
I've been surfing since I was 8 (used to stand up on a boogie-board before that), climbing since ~18 months ago. I've often thought of the parallels and contrasts between the two and have thought of writing an essay on them - examples: a rack and a quiver often are worth more than the vehicle in which they are transported, or how I can show up to a crowded break and not say a single word to anyone else for my entire session, yet frequently chat it up with any climber(s) nearby or passing by. Been too lazy to actually write something up.

I have scored epic sessions by skipping out on work or showing up late for thanksgiving dinner - not as likely to happen with climbing. I'm stoked that we've finally had some decent swells since the holidays started - it was pretty sad for quite a while. Missed out on a couple days b/c of a snowboarding trip this weekend, though, but did get a little family climbing in A-hills on the way to Mammoth.

I'm glad I get to choose between some awesome pursuits. While I have had some exciting days on the rock, nothing has given me the feeling of pure stoke when kicking out after a memorable ride; whether its a barrel or just carve after carve down a perfect point. Surfing still has that something extra when it all comes together.

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@eastsideunderground - your pic looks like __j_
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 30, 2012 - 02:03am PT
Green Room!

Similar subcultures. I have known many from both realms.

Jefe and Peter Hann had some good words on the comparisons.

As I look back, the two pursuits seem to balance and complement each other, but at the time no one cared. It was just fun.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jan 30, 2012 - 02:23am PT
My buddy mike did'nt care either he was having too much fun!
I thought he was going to the oil platform.

Chales i went back and posted some pictures.
i like to keep surfing and climbing.
that's me surfing staircase on a small day.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 30, 2012 - 11:15am PT
It should be noted that 3 years removed from the coastal/surfing life...
I still wake up early and check the palm trees or flags to see which direction the wind is blowing.
Hey, it's offshore...
LIKE IT REALLY F*#KING MATTERS IN TUCSON!!!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jan 30, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Not climbing OR surfing... I am all for the "have a big quiver" approach. Create a quiver with skills and toys: Climbing, backcountry ski/snowboard, surfing, paragliding, mtn biking, peak bagging and throw in BASE for a couple years and then quit. Then just pick from the quiver as conditions and psyche dictate.

socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2012 - 02:32pm PT

There are some damn fine photos in this thread, as it stands I only have one photo of myself surfing after 15 years...

My dad took this at Sunset Cliffs in San Diego, it is one of my favorite photos, sits right in front of my chair in the corner window at the front of my house so I can see it while reading...

While we are getting into it, and CMac started the quiver idea...

What are you riding?

Me:
A 9'6" Becker San Onofre, modified a little - triple redwood stringer with ol' school glassed leash attachment (which I try to never use...) also has a giant Infinity skeg that would be more appropriate beneath a sloop. Gotta brag about the hook-up - my buddies dad glasses for Becker and I only paid $500, with delivery to Monterey!

A 6'10" TDK tri-fin swallow tail, hand-me-down from a buddy in the military who got shipped to Iraq and then Kansas... $0

First board - 8'6" Tony Staples tri-fin squash tail (fun to learn on)

Charles

Jefe - My brother lives in Tuscon, and never surfs but won't give up his 9'6" Brewer that he keeps at our parents house in SD... hunt him down at REI (he's the admin) and tell him its just not right to keep that board gathering dust...

Charles
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Crag, you drive a car? Or hang out with people?

Guess its not the statistics so much as the fear of not knowing that you are about to be shredded like an unwanted sensitive document... but hey, just pack that trusty pistol...

BTW, very nice pictures!

Charles
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jan 30, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Tonight @ Tamarindo/Playa langosta.....6ft overhead.





Sick.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jan 30, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
Gotta echo what C Mac said, it pays to have a full bag of skills. It gets pretty good here in the Gulf of Mexi from time to time:

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socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Alpine, that second shot has to be the second glassiest wave I have seen... but it will have to do. Really jealous of the pics and the boat, nice post!

Charles
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 30, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
Surfstar- didn't quite get what you meant. i wish I had some better surf shots . I need a scanner for some of the better shots I have. I grew up in your neck of the woods and still do most of my surfing around Pt Conception and central cal. Hoping for a trip to WARM water soon!!!!! Warbler, hope your ankle heals to let you back in the line-up and pack that kid up and go!. Jefe, GET SOME my man!!!.
edit ,I know I've posted this shot before but I love the vibe!!!!
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jan 31, 2012 - 12:33am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

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Isn't there one out there of Obama too.

Mahalo to the Hawaii people. Maybe finally helping us find that all kids are golden, and you too ...

surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 31, 2012 - 01:21am PT
eastsideunderground - that first pic looks like c_j_ - don't like to name spots ;)

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local gem


Mucci I'm jealous if you're down there right now. My warm water bottom turn shot is from Playa Negra and here's a couple Tamarindo sunsets:

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fun estuary session
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:00am PT
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:08am PT
Worlds Largess Surfboard !!!

Sorry that I can't post the picture. Maybe later.

It ain't about the quiver or the gear?!!!

bob

climber
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Eastside is that a pic from one of the Channel Islands (not sayin :) ) ?????
Goin to Jalama for a week tomorrow. Yay.

Bob J.
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:55am PT

any more cars on the island and ...

rising ocean, slowly growing reefs, changing sand bars ...
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jan 31, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
any comparison of surf comps vs climbing comps - was just watching Volcum pipe pro - Heavy- how many climbing comps risk serious injury/death? the boys took some serious beatings. Yea surfstar thats _ been surfing there since I was sixteen - love that wave -
flyingkiwi1

Trad climber
Seattle WA
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
I think the two are complementary in the sense that they both have a primal feel to them; but since they're different elements, rock and water, it makes sense that the nature (pun intended) of the challenges and opportunities that each presents is complementary.

(Disclaimer: Most of my surfing has been on the Washington coast, often not many people out. I've never surfed a crowded SoCal break. That might feel more primal in some ways, but probably less in others.)



WhiskeyToast

Social climber
Hawaii
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
I live on the North Shore of Oahu and I don't surf. Don't climb anymore either.
If you haven't seen the recently released body surfing movie from Woodshed Films - Come Hell or Highwater: plight of the torpedo people.

http://www.woodshed.com/

http://www.woodshed.com/news-events

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOez2mFNk2s

It's a must see. I generally don't like surf films, but this is a great film.
Sioux Juan

Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
surfers suck salt water, climbers are friendly
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
Climbers and surfers both need to go to Jalama beach and eat a hamburger!
Jalama Burger!
sufing Jalama's Tarantulas.
Jalama Winery
we need one of these made for Stoney Point.
adam d

climber
Feb 1, 2012 - 12:50am PT

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socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 01:44am PT
Pyro,
dig the orange single fin, what are the measurements on that thing?

Charles
g-tech

Trad climber
Oakland!
Feb 1, 2012 - 01:52am PT
How could you live without surfing and climbing? It's the only reason I live in California still.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 01:58am PT
And way more assh0les where the waves are good.

I think it's more a function of population density and competition.

I grew up in a beach town with 2000 people, most of whom didn't surf or boogie board, and it was wonderful. It was more crowded on good days, and you could choose to hang in the pack or go find your own spot.

I have plenty of boogie boarding and surfing memories emblazoned for life, just like from climbing. The peaceful connection with nature that comes from hanging out at belays is very similar to that waiting for the next surf set to come in. Just letting your mind wander, or pondering the flecks of sand suspended in the water, or the crystal grains in the granite... different texture, same nirvana.


One unique part of growing up surfing that I liked... you could be in the middle of a deep conversation with someone, waiting on the outside, then you stop mid-sentence and start paddling after the bump on the horizon. Some frenzied activity, barely surviving a few duck dives, a cool wave and some pounding through the impact zone as you paddle back out, and 45 minutes later you pick up the conversation where you left off like nothing happened. I haven't thought about that for more than 20 years, but it's still hanging back in my brain.

I miss my childhood freedom to just wake up, look up and down the coast from my balcony while putting on the wetsuit, and just walk down to where the waves look best. I'm not far from the coast now, and I drive much farther to Yosemite for climbing all the time, but somehow I lost the strong connection to surfing as a way of life. I had it too easy as a kid! Now I have to work for that feeling and I don't chase it. But I do chase it for climbing.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 1, 2012 - 11:59am PT
OK, I'll just go ahead and dump some of my keepers.

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It was offshore in Tucson today.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Feb 1, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
The surfers are as#@&%es topic keeps coming up. I think its a bit unjustified. Imagine if you were out at the crag and multiple gumbies were gumming it up all over the place - top roping hogging the 1st pitch of a classic multi-pitch, spraying incessantly, letting their dogs eat your lunch, and other retarded gumby antics. As a legit non-gumby climber, this would irritate you, right?

Right. Its the same thing surfing just replace the gumby antics with dropping in on someone, paddling out through the lineup in front of someone, ditching your board and shooting it at someone, etc...

If you surf with a decent amount of skill and know your way around a lineup or a wave, you will have no problems. If you can't do those things, then go back to the Swan Slab.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
Jefe, yer killin me with these pics. My heart is trying to leap out of my ribcage to go find the glassy peaks.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 1, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
I'm landlocked...forced to combine the two.
Wobbly summit block surfing, Finger Rock.
adam d

climber
Feb 1, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Dave...closer to home...somewhere in California!

Another shot, same break
:

dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Feb 1, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
No words to describe waves like this!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
They are both about working with what nature gives you. Very complimentary.

Love Jalama! Spent part of my idol youth boating into Hollister Ranch :-)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 2, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
Figure this thread could use some climbing photos

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(not my photo)


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My photo


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mine

To me, rock and waves are the most beautiful and fascinating things. Playing on them is like icing on the cake.

east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 3, 2012 - 12:13am PT


Surf this Haole mutherf*#ker! heh heh heh

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 3, 2012 - 12:22am PT
You wan beef?
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 3, 2012 - 12:27am PT
"no brah , I like chicken"

ps- nice shots Jefe
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2012 - 01:06am PT
Jefe, serious stoke, now I am way psyched to make you acquaintance and do a bit o' climbin'

Cheers,
Charles

michael hayes

Trad climber
san francisco, ca.
Feb 3, 2012 - 01:11am PT
I have been a surfer for over 20 years, and a climber for over 30. I climb 3 days a week in the gym and outside as much as possible, and I try to surf 4 days a week (conditions rule). If the surf is really good I will surf 7 days a week and still try to sneak in a couple of gym sessions. I live only 10 minutes from Sloat in San Francisco and 15 from Planite Granite. It is about as good as it gets for a city slicker. Surfing satisfies my outdoor fix when climbing outside is not an option. Surfing dawn patrol or climbing from 6 to 8 am, really makes my day get off to a good start. I am addicted equally to both.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 3, 2012 - 09:28am PT
Missin the spot right now.

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Pretty much only have crap shots of me surfing. Sorry for the fuzz.
These shots, and the others are all at the same spot(with a few obvious exceptions). Many moods. So cool.

That's one thing about surfing- you can finish what felt like the best wave of your life and you turn around and it's gone. Poof. All you have is the memory, the heartbeat, the stoke. Never to be repeated again. That's what keeps you coming back for more.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 3, 2012 - 10:35am PT

Pushing over the ledge on a heavy wave is a lot like striking out on a run-out lead. It takes commitment, skill, and a big sack.

edit : this wave is five-fun
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 11:02am PT
Damn, I'm starting to feel like going home sick - sick of working when there could be waves!

I'll get mine this weekend, though. Rock and waves.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 3, 2012 - 11:44am PT
That's one thing about surfing- you can finish what felt like the best wave of your life and you turn around and it's gone. Poof. All you have is the memory, the heartbeat, the stoke.

Dr u got it going on!
it must be tough to sit land locked knowing the energy of the wave!
love ur pic's!

Charles i would'nt know the answer to ur question. at the time of the picture i was only thinking of the Jalama burger.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 3, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
OUT THE BACK MATE!!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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Specifically Feb 17-19
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 06:10pm PT

Time to throw some ski stoke into the mix. Believe it or not the skiing has been damn good this week!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 06:13pm PT


What month is it?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 4, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
If I recall correctly ""Pray For Sex" is a break somewhere on the fringes of the North Shore.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
It's rat-f*#ked , not rat-fink if you please. : )

Jefe- headed for surf in Feb ?. ...... nice
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
Surgical strike.
Ryan Adams at LA Philharmonic/ nab a few with da boyz at the point.

Edit
Wtf w/snow pic? That shît creeps me out. Snow, that is.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 07:51pm PT

next best thing to sliding down the face of a wave , is sliding down the face of a mountain
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
adam d
Your spot sure looks like...
Let's see...is it named after a kind of tree?

If so, I've scored there before.
Muddy local trucks with gun racks...they heckled me for NOT wearing booties(!), obvious souther board...
Luckily my first wave was a gem and I didn't blow it stagefright style.


Oh, and I've surfed socialclimber's spots.
Good times in the foodchain!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Zoinks, brrrr, no gracias! Not a snow guy. At all.
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 4, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
Well I climbed this morning and ran out of time this afternoon to surf after helping my Mom with some stuff. Wasn't complimentary today, but the swell is peaking tomorrow morning so I'll still be fine...

[Click to View Linked Image]

The Jalamanon
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
ahhh jalama, I'm amazed i didn't die racing down santa rosa rd trying to break speed records to get to the surf from S.Y.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 08:31pm PT

here's a face for ya...... 4,200 ft of the kine
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
Always skunked by the wind at Jalama...

ESU, brah. Enuf of da white stuff fakka.
No ice in paradise!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 4, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
Love those left hand freight trains!
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 4, 2012 - 09:48pm PT

ok brah , only white kine granite . Cheers!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 5, 2012 - 10:07am PT

This sure beats a lot of surfs I've had.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 5, 2012 - 10:19am PT
Yesterday the call was definitely surfing. My best day at OB ever... Still buzzin

Bomb of the day below (sadly not me)

http://norcalsurfphotos.smugmug.com/SurfPhotos2012/San-Francisco-2412/21333624_J6SZ7R#!i=1699117811&k=3HRxRg2
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 5, 2012 - 10:28am PT
Dang cmac.

Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Feb 5, 2012 - 10:40am PT
It was amazingly "clean" and sunny yesterday in norcal. Far away storms with unusual local weather? I didn't know how to feel. I told myself I'd go check the inside breaks this morning, and possibly go for a swim.

Cheers!

Rising seas, slowly growing coral, disappearing points, eroding cliffs, "higher" wave action, disappearing sand (bars). Better go get after it ...
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2012 - 11:45am PT
CMac,
Damn fine swell at OB, Rip Curl got shafted missing that! Yesterday the call was climbing. Went to E. Pinns. Did several routes I have never done before and did a couple clean that I had falls on previously. All the routes we got on had one or more stars in BYoungs guidebook, we disagree with several.
In chronological order of the day:
Cosmos - Fantastic, should be on everyones list, very solid.
Mammary Pump - The 15 feet of fun climbing not really worth the choss.
Lithium - Very fun.
Between a Rock and a Hard Place - Excellent, great variation and fantastic length.
Melvin - No one should ever have to climb 50 feet of sh#t to boulder.
Foreplay - Very fun, very solid, very sustained climbing.
Feed the Beast - short, pumpy, not all that memorable.
Cantaloupe Death - I guess you could say the step across is memorable... we won't do it again.
The Verdict - I always f'up the sequence but a great way to wear out at the end of the day.

Cheers guys, thanks for keeping this thread going!
Charles
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 5, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
Here is the video from yesterday.

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 5, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
surfing is better
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 5, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
climbing is better
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
CMac,
That paddle looks horrendous! Nice sets though, surprisingly clean.

Charles
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Feb 5, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
Well, I used to be a pretty darn good climber, but at 51 I'm just not as strong or psyched anymore, although I can still get out and lead ok stuff. Let's just say I'll be getting a lot worse from here on out!
When I started surfing in '95, I totally sucked. Now I"m pretty good...of course, living in Colorado has its limitations, but I travel a lot to surf. I like the fact that I still have a lot of room for improvement, and don't feel held back by my age.
I think surfing is an easier sport to age gracefully in...climbing just gets hard! Plus, I know way too many people that have died climbing, and I personally don't know a single person that has died surfing. I of course know that lots of people die surfing, I just don't happen to be acquainted with anyone.....wish I could say the same about climbing.
Two amazing activities though!
Pam
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 5, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Yeah, Ocean Beach is known to be one of the worst paddles in the world. Took me a solid 30 minutes today... took my friend and hour yesterday to get out. But soooo good once you make it out. Today was almost as epic as yesterday
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 5, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Sweet! Booties and squidlids are a must up there.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 5, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
A hood is manditory up here on long paddles in the winter IMO. On paddles like that even with a hood your face wants to fall off.

We should do a supertopo surf day??? Santa Cruz / ocean beach?
adam d

climber
Feb 5, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
I love heavy beach breaks! The paddle punishment has the same effect as a long approach, thinning the herd. And like hiking in to the wall, the paddle out has its own aspects to enjoy.

And Jefe...yup, that other "not a beach break" does have a tree name and can be really fun. I'd only go out without booties if I forgot mine though. Not my "local" spot, but it's not too far.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 5, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
from no swell to swimming pool.
last night me and sam re-built/fiberglassed this 7.5 board.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
That re-glass looks like it might be a fun board, can't see the tail, single fin?

North Moss was fun today, stayed near the jetty, 3-4 with occasional 5-7. Rode a little 6'2" my friend loaned me, once I was up it worked, but F-M-S that thing was hard to paddle, need a little more thickness under the chest.

Farther north of where we were the sets could have been upwards of 10 feet or more, I just don't have that power to keep up with that...

Charles
Vgavinator

Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 01:21am PT

OK a cheap plug. My son makes hollow wooden surfboards. They are also beautiful pieces of art. Ventanasurfco.com They also surf.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 7, 2012 - 01:35am PT
A little OT, but I enjoyed watching this earlier today ... [Click to View YouTube Video]
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 02:18am PT
Vgavinator, I am assuming out of my price range, but that board is gorgeous! Damn! Is your son Tyler? He used to be a member of the gym I manage, really great kid...

Charles
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:28am PT
Cantaloupe Death - I guess you could say the step across is memorable... we won't do it again

Really?


Much easier than all of the other routes you listed, is that the reason?

Friggin classic route. Solid and with a start that will make every leader think for a few seconds more!
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:54am PT
BIOTCH TFPU that was sick!
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:30am PT
Nice day out. Small but well formed.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2012 - 11:51am PT
Mucci,
We just didn't enjoy it, difficulty wasn't the issue, just didn't find it interesting...


Charles
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Feb 9, 2012 - 11:30am PT
Wow, that was the best surfing final, let alone heat, ever. Jon Jon with the buzzer beater.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 11:38am PT
I hear rumors of a little controversy about the scoring on the ride, I guess there is a feeling that had the ride been in the middle of the heat the score would have been lower... I think it was great surfing and great luck combined, he deserves that win, plus we've been watching that kid grow up since Step Into Liquid when he was riding the North Shore at age 8...

Hank - great clip! He must be a skimboarder, surfers have a much broader verbal lexicon...

Charles
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 9, 2012 - 11:44am PT
the coast has been getting hit with some good swell past couple day's. it was so good i did'nt take any pictures.
i love getting wet!

also:) loved the videos! whhapa.
Vgavinator

Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
Feb 9, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
Thanks Charles yep that is my son Tyler
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2012 - 12:08am PT
Vgav, I got an email back from Martinj, they sound like an excellent crew, nice to see someone with immense talent taking up a trade...

Charles
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 11, 2012 - 12:50am PT
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 11, 2012 - 12:52am PT
^Nice.
Waves did pick up this week, but I only got out this afternoon - it was fun, but not as big as the swell #s would have you believe.

Car will be packed with a trad rack, sport rack, and surfboards tomorrow - we'll find something fun to do any which way.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Feb 11, 2012 - 01:11am PT
I dunno, That Jon Jon wave was totally sick. End of heat or middle of heat, that wave was a 9 or higher no doubt.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 11, 2012 - 10:59am PT
[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

Pointbreaks are like easy granite glory climbin', where you can just open up and do whatever the fûck you want to do.

(!!!/

east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 11, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
Hey Adam D " love heavy beachbreaks" - ever been to Pasquales? Talk about heavy-HO MON!!!
miwuksurfer

Social climber
Mi-Wuk
Feb 11, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
I dream about the ocean after a week of climbing. I don't dream of rock after a week surfing...
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Going to hit up the storm surge tomorrow and see if I can't contract a debilitating disease from the runoff, planning on taking the GoPro for the first time... pics to come...

For now, last weekend at the Pinns, east side, Between a Rock and a Hard Place - Discovery Wall



Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 11, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
It's been EPIC here on the north shore of Maui for so long now that I haven't found time to tune in to the taco. I was delighted to find this thread this morning. I hope to jump in soon in that I am a rock/surf bum kinda guy as well. Aloha Olaf
http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com
Byrner

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 13, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
I love them both. However, I find it nearly impossible to motivate to go to the gym on a beautiful warm day when I can be outside and in the surf. As expected, my climbing suffers. I can think of worse trade-offs.

However, I have found a use for my climbing gear in the surfing arena. While shooting Mavericks on a boat lurching about in the sea, rather than trying to hang on and keep my balance, I girth-hitched a runner to a guardrail on the bow and then clipped a biner into my leather belt. While everyone else was slipping and sliding, I sat back and could shoot the spectacle in comfort. Next time I go out on a boat, I'm wearing my harness.

socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Great shot Byrner! I was talking with a friend yesterday and when it comes down to it I would rather get up at 5 am to go climbing than to surf. That may be a product of location cause it comes down to warmth... but the idea of crawling out of a warm down bed, away from a warm female body and into moist/cold neoprene and then into a roiling 50 degree Pacific Ocean is easy to talk myself out of... I did find out that my surfing buddy changed his plans and no longer wants to be in Hawaii and is moving back, it always helps having someone to surf with as a motivator (similar to climbing).

Charles
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 13, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
Gotta always have a dry wettie. It's worth it to buy two to alternate.
Byrner

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 13, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
Right on, Charles. Yes, the neoprene in the morning is always a rough one. That, and getting smacked in the face with the first wave of the morning are always tough barriers, but once they're gone, the bliss begins.

One of the guys on here did mention the large numbers of assholish folks often at the good breaks. That is the one thing that does get in the way for me sometimes. I participate in these sports to get away. Jockeying for position at a Santa Cruz break is kind of a bummer when you're looking for a break.

All the more reason to take a vacation to some deserted, warm beach... with cliffs to climb in the background. :)
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
Feb 13, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
Killer shot of Mav's there, Byrner!
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 13, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
+1 Jefe - I always have two wetttie

nice Mavs shot - hope you were not on the boat that almost got cleaned- up.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 13, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 13, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
Quality wavepools near the crag is not too farfetched.[Click to View YouTube Video]
Clarke Brogger

Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
Feb 14, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Great question. In my opinion as someone who has surfed hard for 30 years and climbed relatively hard and as passionately as anyone for 15 years, they are not complimentary physically but are indeed mentally.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Clark, I am always struck by the completely different muscle groups I use in the two pursuits, I always thought climbing was as full body a workout as I would need/get and surfing engages a completely different set...

That Wadi wave pool is rad... but anyone got a few acres in the sierra? Put one of these up:
http://vimeo.com/36435513

Charles

slabby

Sport climber
Bend, Oregon
Feb 14, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
I grew up surfing but have climbed religiously for the past 18 years, and I couldn't agree with Randy Leavitt any more! Getting spit out of a double overhead freight train at Honolua Bay is bar-none the most exhilarating experience of my life, and a sunny-chest high day is about as relaxing as it gets. Topping out on the Diamond or sending my hardest sport project is satisfying,gratifying and a fantastic motivator, but climbing always contains an underlying anxiety for me, whether due to fear or a self-induced pressure to perform. I feel extremely fortunate to have been able to enjoy both activities throughout my life, I just wish Cali wasn't so expensive and crowded.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 14, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/showcasing-last-weeks-swell-up-and-down-the-west-coast_66989/

cool feature on the sick waves we have been having in Cali
RP3

Big Wall climber
Chapel Hill
Feb 14, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Nice Scorpion Bay shot, drljefe!

Both kick mega ass! I could never choose between the two...

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 15, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Right back at you o-man:

Charles
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Feb 15, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
I surfed a popular Santa Cruz county spot yesterday- it was such a zoo. One thing about climbing is that as you improve you get to climb better less crowded routes. When you get better at surfing you end up at more crowded spots competing against better surfers.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 15, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
SuperTopo Ocean Beach surf anyone? (SF OB) Unfortunately surf forecast no bueno for this weekend.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
How about coming to Monterey Bay, say, Moss Landing, locals can be calm enough...

Charles
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 19, 2012 - 02:20pm PT

bump:


and what about wave sailing ?
mountainproject.com/surfing-and-wave-sailing
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 19, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
I say we meet in the middle at Santa cruz :) of course I'm biased to the shortest drive haha
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 19, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
Hay trundlebum, Thanks for the comment on the MP thread. We have just under 33K page views and it's picking up momentum every day. I would like to acknowledge your creative efforts ever since the beginning back in 08. I believe we are one of (if not) the longest running active threads on that website. I have more fun with the thread than my magazine or my blog. I just feel most comfortable in the presence of climbers.
I invite the taco crew to jump in if you have an interest to share the surf/rock bum lifestyle. Cheers Olaf

I would like to share a painting by Tracy Harp she is a a great surfer and wave sailor and a dominant force in the "Kuau Yacht Club"
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 24, 2012 - 03:11pm PT

Fun surf at pleasure point at dawn patrol this morning in santa cruz
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Feb 24, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
Dead President's Day found the Gulf of Mexico spitting benjamin's for those in the know.

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 25, 2012 - 11:36am PT
My bro Woofy
[Click to View Linked Image]
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Bumping this up for some nice imagery since the last time I checked in... had a most disappointing time last Friday wandering the bay, too closed out at the southern end, too foggy in the middle... hoping change of schedule and a new midday time slot improve my options...

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 28, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
This is another bump for the climbing/surfing thread.
There has been no lack of world class waves here on the north shore of Maui lately. The only catch is if you are only a surfer you're limited to just the dawn patrol before the wind gets on it and blows it out BUT if you have wind skills you're in the best place on the planet to express yourself in every size waves imaginable.
Many of our core group are accomplished big wave surfers and wave sailors. Some of us are even rock climbers with many first assents and notable walls and peaks to thier credit. It's very hard to be a big fish in this pond. These days I travel back to my home in Colorado to climb. I train very little for climbing these days so my trad leading head is very very rusty but after a few days with my bro's I can still get up a few things. Climbing is always on my mind and I aspire to get the opportunity to do an extended road trip to taste some of those classics that I remember from back in the day. Cheers to all you rock/surf bums here on the Taco! Aloha Olaf
roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 28, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
Just back from a great Costa Rica surf trip and stoked to see all the great pics. Have been climbing/skiing many years and learning to surf for quite a few less years. Maybe was once a real climber but will probably never be a real surfer. Too much fun not to keep at it though. But I keep thinking that surfing lacks a killer learning aid that skiing has had for a long time, and realized the answer has been under my butt all along: Chairlifts!! Think about it. An elegant solution to all that tiring paddling and breath holding! The engineering can't be any harder or more expensive than building a pier or drilling platform. What with wave machines and all, I can't believe someone hasn't built one by now. And there's precedent: jumping off a pier, hiking to the point, PWC's, and boats. It would be easy to string one up on the side of an existing pier, too. Any decent beach break could be made accesible to anybody with the price of a ticket, and the whole inside would be open because everybody is riding the chair! You could even limit the onloads to thin out the lineup. And no more wasting time earning respect and giving way....just paddle back from the chair to the takeoff and go. Plus, less time in the water to contract infectious diseases after every rainstorm and runoff event. Sometimes my genius surprises even me. Looking for investors!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
I can't tell if you are kidding... but fvck that....

Charles
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 28, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Haha also can't tell if he's kidding, but of course someone from colorodo would be the one to want a chairlift at the beach. That could easily be the worst thing that could happen to surfing. The day I have to pay to surf....I can't even finish that sentence! Never!!!!
roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 28, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Yeah, it's a joke! But maybe a little scary, too. Who would have thought 25 years ago that climbing would actually become a competition sport with cheering crowds and circuits and indoor specialists? Lots of parallels between the sports. Now there's even a contest circuit for the big wave guys. For me, at least, surfing and climbing in the end boil down to solitary pursuits, sans crew. Cracks me up to read about people having to wait to go climbing because their photographer isn't ready. And just 'cause I'm from Colorado doesn't mean I ride the lifts.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Phew... that was a close one... one of the disparities between climbing competitions and surfing competitions is the medium. By and large climbing comps are held indoors/on artificial walls (I am aware that there are outdoor comps) and on the opposite side surfing comps are held outdoors at the very breaks we frequent (and some more exotic ones), I would hesitate to say that climbing will ever rise to the level of surfing (speaking in dollars here, though Adidas is hedging their bets that way), it's just not as interesting to watch as surfing is...

Phil, glad you weren't serious, i'd have to take up monkey-wrenching if someone started building lifts at surf breaks, piers are invasive enough...

Charles
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 28, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
And just 'cause I'm from Colorado doesn't mean I ride the lifts.

Touché!!! Just giving you some crap ;) joking around nothing personal.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 28, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
One winter day a while back my very attractive blond friend Lynn and I were just starting the 1/4 mile paddle out at Kanaha when this Maui Water Patrol man pulled up by us on his County Jet Ski and asked if we wanted a tow. We said " Hell Yeah!" You should have seen the looks on all da bradda's faces when he dropped us of at da peak. Oh well, That was a once in a life time experience. Every now a again I run into Lynn and we most always bring up that tow out.
BTW: Phil I was just about to express my $.02 on your chair ride to the peak idea. Thanks for clearing up the troll and not starting a sh#t storm an this very cool thread. Aloha, Olaf
roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 28, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
I didn't mean to start nothin', guys. Just a sarcastic cynical old fart. I wasn't joking about the being surprised nobody had done it yet part though. Seems like it would fit right in with the current adventure travel craze. Crazy big thinkers have come up with some pretty strange things. How about Abalonia? And to answer the thread question, without a doubt.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 28, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
Somewhere in the southern hemisphere
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 28, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
Somewhere in Arizona


Climbing and surfing take us to some incredible places.
Sometimes you just have to stand there and soak it all in.

We are fortunate.
stokedsean

Trad climber
Waaay down there
Feb 28, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Finally a post to break out of "lurking" for! We are all so damn lucky to be climbing and/or surfing--the friendships, places and experiences we take are highlighted often in both sports. These are some of my favorite days and piccys to go with...
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Feb 28, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
this thread just keeps getting better. Great photos!!!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 28, 2012 - 10:56pm PT

Local North shore kid get busted by principal for skipping school!
This is soo cool I hope it comes out. [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjTkVNk89HQ]
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Sean, great photos, some really excellent surf break catalogued there...

Olaf, try this:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Feb 28, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Thank you Charles.
Those are great images stokedsean thanks for sharing them with us Dude!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 29, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 29, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
Lovin that shot of Rags, stokedsean.
All those shots / spots are sick, actually.
stokedsean

Trad climber
Waaay down there
Feb 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
Glad I am finally returning something to this amazing site...Ive been lurking about other peoples trip reports for some time now...
Heres a few more surf and climb stoke photos of two complimentary pursuits(i.e more shameless self promotion of my own fortunate adventures) Hope you folks enjoy them!

bixquite

Social climber
humboldt nation
Feb 29, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
hey jefe, the southern hemi pic looks like incondensia in enquique?
fun wave, kinda heavy...

bouys are popping do you know where your gun is?

peace
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 29, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
pretty shitty day, so i had a beer instead.
this thread is getting better and better!
went climbing yestarday.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 2, 2012 - 02:36am PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 2, 2012 - 10:03am PT
Over the falls?
[Click to View Linked Image]

Hitting the lip
[Click to View Linked Image]

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 2, 2012 - 11:58am PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 2, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
In the spirit of keeping this thread alive I thought that I would like to try and share one of my images of surfing a substantial winter day here on the north shore a few seasons back.

The parking lot isn’t empty but there are a lot of vacant spaces.

Walking through the kiavi trees out to the beach I get my first view of the ocean.

I’m wide eyed and I have a lump in my throat as I stare into the winter swell. With my binoculars I watch one wave after another close out completely.

The waves are so big that I question my sanity for even thinking about paddling out!

I am preoccupied and I don’t realize that my friend Dave has arrived at the scene.
Dave looks at the conditions and says, “Olaf, this is dangerous!"
I reply, “It could be Dave, but let’s paddle out, we don't have to drop in on any of them!"
Having surfed this spot many times we are fully aware of how the hydraulics work over this section of reef.
The size and direction of this swell has changed the character of everything.
The main peak is much further out than normal and there is a breaking wave in the channel.
There are also occasional sneaker peaks popping up in odd places.

I manage to catch few smaller waves on the inside left and started to calm down a bit. In fact I was having fun.

On the horizon I see this "macker" rolling in and Dave and I both start paddling for our lives, were paddling up a dead vertical wall of water! Our timing was good and we both made it over that one.
That really got my adrenaline pumping!
Dave says, "Humm! Olaf, that one was big!"
I reply, "Yeah Dave it was, but take a look at this one!"
The next wave of the set comes out of nowhere.
It totally creams us!
All that I have time to do is take a deep breath, relax, and hang on to my board.
After tumbling in the torrent for a while I surface and I say to myself, “WOW! That one wasn’t so bad.”
I look to make sure if my board is still in one piece. I find it’s still intact.

Thanks to the long intervals between the larger sets the paddle back out side is casual.

Back in the lineup, I notice each surfers face is sporting a serious expression and there is relatively no idle conversation. There isn’t a defined line up, the waves are erratic and the current is so strong that it’s hard to hold any kind of position.
It's every man for himself.
If some fool wants to roll the dice and drop in on one of these waves, every one wishes him well and gets out of the way!

While I’m patiently sitting outside what appears to be a perfect peak comes my way.
I turn and paddle for it.
My timing is late and I am sucked over the falls.
I take a long freefall followed by a violent thrashing!
Next, I get to walk on the reef for a while, and my only thought is that, I need air!
Pulling hand over hand on my leash takes me to the surface. I’m careful not to pull too hard. Once in the past, I actually pulled my board right into my face. That proved to be way more dangerous than the wave.

I’m shaken from the violent pounding of the last wave but paddle back out. I sit the outside the breaking waves for a good long while.
After the last thrashing, I’m not eager to put my life back on the line right away.
.

It’s some time before I able to relax.
Eventually my thoughts turn to idle daydreaming. Thoughts like what I want to be when I grow up or that bonehead thing that I wish I hadn’t said last night replace the tension and terror of my last wipeout.

It’s a lot of work to hold my position where I think the wave will peak.

Some of the other surfers are sitting inside and left. They’re trying to surf in the safety zone created by the left shoulder section. This strategy often works but today the left channel is closing out.
A very steep board-breaking wave takes its place and is catching the unsuspecting surfers off guard.

Then low and behold the most perfect wave manifests right before my eyes. I really don’t have to try to catch it. It is just that perfect.
Two strokes are all that it takes and I’m on it! I’m dropping down the face of this magnificent wonder of nature. It is a perfectly pealing left hand wave with a steep shoulder that goes on forever! It feels like some three star intermediate groomed run at Vail.
With total commitment I set my rail and initiate the bottom turn. I then climb back to the lip and cut back to the peak. With the peak crumbling just inches behind my fin, I smack the lip and then repeat the aforementioned, seemingly interminable drop, rails digging and fins threatening to break loose but still holding their track I glide into the channel!

I hear “hoots” from the other surfers! I know that I have just dropped in on one of the best waves of the day.
I spend another hour getting clobbered without getting another wave.
It‘s a long paddle in but I have had enough of this brand of fun for one day!

socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
^^^^^ Like button needed for that post. Very cool Olaf!

charles
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
A friend just dropped off a 5'10 quad fin fun board for me to try and possibly base a board on for his brother to shape for me... i'll post up some results tomorrow!

Charles
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Mar 2, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
I looked for video of the cover ...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 3, 2012 - 12:26am PT
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Mar 3, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 3, 2012 - 01:25am PT
when i'm on a climbing trip slack line helps keep the balance.
capt was drunk!
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Mar 3, 2012 - 05:37am PT
The local spot breaks like this almost everyday! six to ten foot off shore trades.
super clear water it’s the best break I have ever surfed!
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Mar 3, 2012 - 09:43am PT
Point Dume in the house! Love that place...

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 3, 2012 - 10:03am PT
My last surf.
[Click to View Linked Image]
small and clean.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 3, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
Rock-er-Waves
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Pretty mushy this morning at Moss, not the best conditions for the 5'10"... at first we were alone, but as the morning went on grouchy old guys came out and paddle-battled us on longboards... of course you are gonna win buddy, my boards mostly underwater... we were getting kind of cold and bummed by the crowd and I headed in a my friend stayed for one more, saw a guy on something long catch the wave of the day and head past my friend on his way back out and say something, given the mood in the water I made my assumptions... so my friend and I meet up on shore and I ask what the guy said... he said good morning and had a huge smile on his face... only good surfer in the water and the only happy one... huge parallel to climbing... the best is the one having the most fun...

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 5, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 5, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Mar 5, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Making the best out of a small day...





no matter how much i hurt myself from climbing too much (i hate to say too much but it's true) i can somehow always surf
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 6, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 7, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
Those are some sick shots "briham89"
I really dig the stoke that this thread is generating!
Here's a few images that I shot yesterday afternoon at Hookipa between rain squalls. It was one of those mixed up days with substantial waves, moderate Kona winds and rain squalls. It really wasn't inspiring me to surf so I shot a few photos and talked story with some friends along the way.
Today is more promising. I can here the surf pounding as I write this post.

briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Mar 7, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
Thanks o-man :)

Today is more promising. I can here the surf pounding as I write this post.

Let's see some shots of this!!! I'm jealous of where you live. When I'm down with school I'm going to try to move somewhere in Hawaii for awhile.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
Pretty consistent left knee to head high at Tioga today, my wife and son came along so I finally have a surf shot! Riding the 9'6" Becker on a smaller wave:

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 8, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
NICE SHOT CHARLES!
Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
dogtown,imo you nailed it right on the head!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
Olaf, almost a perceptible cutback, wish my knee was dropped a little beter, but what can you do?

Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?

Yes it is, and the longer you compare them, the more you get to look at and enjoy them... just don't tell my wife...

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 9, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
If you will please indulge me. I think that this route is worth pursuing just a bit further.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 10, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
Since no one has jumped in and given us a more valid comparison in my opinion,I'm gonna continue with this direction for one more post cause I am a guy and I like to see strong beautiful women athletes in action.
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
Mar 10, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
"Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don't you think?"

Yep.

I agree with that analogy, and will take it a step further perhaps by saying that one would be the queen of the rodeo(#1 barrel racer)and the other one a biker babe(that cud kick our azz)! ;)

edit: btw, great pics/thread everybody!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 10, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Dogtown, is that righteous barreling pic above P-Pass?

And is that you? If so... rad.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 10, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
My best surfing pic ever... Ocean Beach last December running a nice northwest swell.

And note, Leavitt, this is the REAL Ocean Beach... although the wave makes that obvious, no? Here's hoping you come back with a nice "assisted surfing" pic, RSL...

splitter

Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
Mar 10, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
"this is the REAL Ocean Beach..."

Better try dropping into a similar sized North OB Jetty barrel, cranking one off the bottom before ya kiss the rocks & then sending it down the line and out the other end...before ya make dem claims, bro!!


EDIT: not that we need any promo's, but a claim is a claim...


Characteristics(per wannasurf/surfline):

Alternitive name: OD Jetty(did i mention the take-off/particularly approaching dubl-o-head)

Wave quality: Regional Classic

Experience: Pros or Kamikazi's only(did i mention the take-off??)

Wave length: Normal day(50-150m) Good day(150-300m)

Power: Hollow, fast, powerful...

Dangers: Man-made(buoys, rocks, etc./did i mention the take-off??) -- Localism -- Polution(from SD River/only after rain).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Sounds like a fine wave"

Yea, that's a great shot of you at OB up your way! Pretty clean and off-shore. Def holds a bigger swell.

dinky swell currently, here in Dago'...maybe drag out the lng-board, manana.

havya gotten wet during any of yur soujourns in the Southern Hemisphere?
Perhaps in Phillipe Pomar country(Peru)...

I imagine RL is off chasin the big ones somewhere in the so pacific this time of year(or winding things up on the north shore, perhaps).
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 10, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
I'd love to try...!

From those descripts, it sounds like a fine wave.

(Ours doesn't do so bad in the surfline write-up, either...)

It's the consistent size that makes SF's OB... when I was living in Santa Barbara, where I grew up and learned to surf, swell size like in the pic I posted would be the day of the year...up here, it's nothing overly special, just another day in a good week.
roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
Mar 11, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
Great pics and comments. Guess I will try to add a couple of my own....shades of blue. Keep it going!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 11, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Gregory,Dude you are soo in the sweet spot. Great photo!


http://mauisurfing.blogspot.com/2012/03/my-north-shore-double-dip-day-by-olaf.html
roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
Mar 11, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Hey O-Man, is there a source for the beauty art you've been posting? Good stories, too. Wish I could surf like that....have to settle for the drop into Highlands Bowl this time of year....Free your heel, free your....whatever.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 11, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
Thanks, O-man! I've had a GREAT season. (Up until about mid-January, when I basically hung it up to focus on my book release.)
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 11, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
Very cool Gregory!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
is this the kelly slater thread?

who here would dish kelly slater?

socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
This thread is doing great, love the stoke overlap of these two pursuits. Had a great weekend at the PInns, back to back days, will throw some pics in when I get them, but the highlight was my partner sending Cataract Corner on the Monolith! She took 5 falls, lowered to the ground after each then fired the sucker, very proud day! For the record I have tennis elbow right now and I got my ass handed to me on that route... (let the flaming begin)...

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 12, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
In the spirit of keeping this thread moving forward here's a flash from my past.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 12, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
Dbl overhead session at 3 mile north of santa cruz today with only my 2 friends and I. Epicness ensued.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Karo, going to have to join you for one of those sessions...

Charles
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 12, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
this morning/afternoon was kinda good.
wipe out!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 13, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
If anyone has a link to a better barrel surfing shot than at 1:25 of the video below, please post it


briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Mar 13, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
That's freaking rad Chris. I've been trying to think about what in climbing compares to getting shacked and coming out the other end. Maybe sending a hard route or summitting on a wall. Or maybe there is no point in comparing and just enjoy the stoke of each.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
+1 on Chris' post! A small photo/film crew here in the Monterey Area http://upsidownworld.com/ has been pondering getting into the aerial photog business, they are a little apprehensive because of the new FAA drone rules and what they might mean for the growth of the industry. Really cool stuff though, great to capture climbing as well, see the WHY video for those shots of Honnold!

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 13, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
I think that this one has a lot of aloha as well.

Click on this link get past the stupid car commercial at the beginning and you will be blessed with visual and sensory abundance!

http://video.mpora.com/watch/5Pgs2slxu/#

edit-My neighbor Ian Walsh said this about this video:
"This is one of the only videos i have ever seen that shows exactly what it feels like to ride a massive wave in Tahiti."
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 13, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 14, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
Everyone likes to paint a nice picture of how their sessions go and I am not any different.
But there is only one way I can describe how this winter is going for me and that is GNARLY!
We have been having back to back advisory/warning level swells and nuclear winds.
Being an avid wave sailor I should be delighted but so many mishaps have occurred that I am getting worn down. I had back to back rib injuries earlier in the season. Then I had another injury that I won’t go into that wasn’t surf related.
Surfing and wave sailing in substantial conditions require you to be in top condition and I really haven’t been injury free most of the season. When you’re a wave junkie like me it’s hard to sit on the beach and be a spectator and not to go out.
Now I have had some great surf and wave sailing sessions this season but lately it has been very challenging and I am not the only one that is feeling the wear.
Two weeks back it was just sick big! I sailed the day before it got totally out of control and I caught one session as that swell was dropping. In both of those sessions I was careful not to get caught inside. This was followed by another bump of equal proportions. The wind was so off shore that there was next to no wind on the inside and blowing like stink on the outside so it was next to impossible to choose the proper kit. What do you do? It’s very important to rig big enough so you have enough power to get through the impact zone but if you do you wind up so over powered on the wave that you can’t express yourself on the wave face. This being the case you tend to rig small and hope for a break in the sets so you can sneak out side without getting clobbered. In one of my sesh’s I was held under longer than I have in a very long time.
In the last week the giant long period N/W ground swells have dropped off but they were still there. They have been replace by massive tight interval S/E wind swell producing 20’++ faces. Now this isn’t all that bad in that the faces of these waves are fairly smooth and easy to ride but ya always got to keep an eye out over your shoulder and make sure that the wave behind you isn’t going to eat you when you kick out the back.
The first part of last week it was so stinking windy that I chose to wait till later on the day hoping for the wind to recede and each day as I was about to launch the wind just crapped out once due to a passing rain squall and the other it just dropped bit by bit I showed up with a 3.7m and before I got on the water it had dropped a notch. Not wanting to go out in surf of the magnitude under powered I walked back to my place and got my 4.1m sail. No sooner did I get it rigged the wind dropped another notch. I could have or maybe should have just gone back home a got my 4.7m but by this time I was getting frustrated. So I just took my stuff home and put it away.
The next day I wasn’t going to let that happen again so I went earlier and rigged my 3.7m and went out I got creamed on my way out but eventually made it outside. It was so windy that it was very hard to manage but I got some great waves (I also almost sailed right on top of a whale that was cruising along the surface not very far outside the impact zone) before I decided to go in. The spot that I typically sail has one of the most technical launch and returns on the north shore. I have had just about everything imaginable happen to me in the last thirty meters. This day the current was running like a mountain stream in spring runoff. With a rip running that strong and no wind on the inside I fell in a very bad place. I made an effort to swim with my gear but it was futile so I decided to water star and go back outside and give it another shot.
By this time the current had a firm hold on me and before I knew or could do anything about it I was in the middle of the bone yard and these two to three foot demons were pounding me into the rocks time after time. I have been in this place in the past and know that is no use in fighting the inevitable. I just tried to not get clobbered by my gear as the waves crashed us on the rocks. It’s very entertaining to watch someone get the living S..t kicked of them in that rock garden.
Well I came out of that relatively unscathed but my 78ltr. Quatro wave board took some big hits and my 3.7m Goya wave sail suffered some serious bruises. After that I collected the carnage called it a day.
The next day looked better. So I showed up at the beach and rigged and went out I was immediately taken out time after time. Finally this one substantial wave hit me. Typically when I get hit by a wave that big I let my rig go and then swim after it. But several of my friends lost their entire rigs in the past two days due to the extreme currents generated by this vigorous N/E wind swell so I held on. The power of that wave combined with the resistance of me hanging on was too much for my Goya 370 mast and it folded.
I have been in this situation several times in the past and realize that there is nothing that I can do but keep hold of my gear and start swimming for shore. The current was very strong and my choices of possible landing sites were very limited due to cliffs and jagged rocky beaches. My first choice was the back of the bay but that possibility soon diminished so I set my sights on Blue Tile House Beach at Tavares Bay this seemed possible but as I worked my way closer I realized that the current wasn’t going to let me come in there. Well next possible place was Spy Glass house but I dismissed that option remembering the last time I tried that spot.( I just got beat up severely on those rocks and my gear suffered majorly).
The next possible port was Buddha Bay. I have retrieved numerous wave sailors that have broken down and washed in at that spot over the years. None of those guys had a positive thing to say about that spot.
As I got closer I realized that the current was going to push me right past Buddha Bay and I set my sights on Paia Bay and wasn’t dismissing the possibility of landing at Baldwin Beach even further down the coast.
I was completely at peace with my situation in that it wasn’t close to dark yet and there wasn’t any thing that I could do other than go with the flow.
That‘s when I noticed my friend Dean sitting on a kayak with a big smile on his face. I told him that I was glad to see him but didn’t know if there was anything he could do to help other than hang out and keep me company while I worked my way to the next possible landing spot.
Dean had strapped a surfboard leash to the back of the kayak and told me to hang on and he would try to tow me against the current into Buddha Bay. I was doubtful that this was going to work but I was getting tired and more than willing to give it a try.
Surprisingly we made slow but steady progress toward the shore.
We could see the waves pounding at Buddha Bay and knew that we were going to have to come up with a plan.
The last thing we needed was for Dean and his kayak and me and my sailboard rig to be taken out by a sneaker set while trying to land. The thought of the two of us and the gear tumbling in the same wave was not pretty.
Then the next thing that I know a head popped up out of nowhere. Tracy had been watching and swam out to help with negotiating the dicey last bit. She had been scoping out the best place to come in and had it all figured out.
The next thing I noticed was Viktor standing on the beach spotting the best place as well.
With all these wonderful friends helping, the landing went seamlessly and we carried everything up on to the lawn at the Buddhist Temple and I started to de-rig my broken rig.
Next Pete showed up. He had gone into town and grabbed a 12 pack.
We went back to the launch and had a beer. We talked story for a while, and watched another Maui sunset.
All in all it was just business as usual in my neck of the woods.




zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Mar 15, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
Kauai World Challenge 2011 Action from Air and Sea - great upper body toner. Looks like he wants to take off @:52 - changes mind.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Better cameras

[Click to View YouTube Video]


o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 16, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
I’m sitting here trying to remember some of the details of a recent surf sesh I had and
it’s real hard to focus on any single wave other than this one.
At the beginning of the sesh I dropped in on a couple of bombs that were nothing but a big clean drop to a big close out.
Then Kanaha started really showing her teeth and she was in a foul mood.
Not many guys were going for the set waves and I found out why.
I was sitting pretty far out when something rose up on the horizon.
I immediately started paddling out as fast as I could.
I paddled for a long way and I didn't know if I had gone far enough.
By the time the set got to me I still wasn't clear of this makker set.
I paddled up vertical faces that I don't have any I idea of how big they were, but, they spooked me.
One after another I paddled over three of them and just barely cleared the lip before it threw.
I kept eyes on the horizon as I caught a couple smaller waves that were closeouts as well.
I was hoping for one good wave and then I was going to call it a day.
I was sitting off to the left of what I thought was the peak when this smaller looking glassy peak rolled right up to me.
It was a perfect right hander.
I hardly had to paddle.
I made two strokes and popped up into a low aggressive stance.
I dropped down the long smooth face.
I charged back up that smooth face for almost as far as I had dropped at the peak.
Just when I was initiating my top turn the wave decided to throw.
And boy did it!
I had a full head of steam when I collided with this exploding peak. I was thrown far in the air and my board was thrown even farther. When it had stretched my leash as far as it could the board rebounded. It powered back at me like one of those paddle balls on a rubber band.
I remember seeing the fins as they passed by my face.
Then it happened!
I landed right in the epicenter of the force that the wave was producing.
I was violently pummeled and held under for an uncomfortably long while.
When I came up I only had time for one deep breath before the next equally sized wave dumped on my head.
This went on for several more waves.
Each one of them delivered a severe beating.
All I could do is breath when I got the chance and try and protect my board as best I could.
When that set subsided I paddled back out and caught a couple more smaller waves before calling it a day.
I was asked by several guys how my sesh was and all I could tell them was that I caught some big waves and I paid for them
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 16, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
i love how every wave is different.
i went climbing the other day and had fun.
i went surfing the other day and had even more fun.
good read o-man.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 17, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
bob

climber
Mar 17, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
I love that road! You know its near......................there it is! :) Good surfin down yonder! Definitley spent some good times there at Conejo.

The fishing rocks!!!!!!!!!
Have you ever had so many oysters!????

Bob J
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 17, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
O-man, awesome read. Kanaha has some juice. Where were you surfing exactly? Off where it gets shallow, lower reef? Do you know the angle wave to the right of that area?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 18, 2012 - 10:11am PT
The complementarity of Surfing and Climbing explained through images. Ruby Waves at the Kuna Crest:

[Click to View Linked Image]
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Mar 18, 2012 - 10:31am PT

Maybe some Sunday morning reading:

http://www.elcamino.edu/faculty/mreed/general/Thesis/thesis.htm

Hope it doesn't sound preachy. Maybe gonna go look for some Tegula f. for breakfast. Try come eat!

aloha
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Mar 18, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Turned off the heat, turned down the lights ... one last Sunday morning bump.


Any new news? Maybe the CA budget wasn't such a bad thing afterall.

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 18, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
Where were you surfing exactly?
Studly,
Obviously you're familiar with the wave at Kanaha Beach Park here on Maui.
I typically surf the main peak at lower Kanaha.
For me it's primarily a long board wave in that it’s a ¼ mile paddle out and it can be a bit mushy and hard to get into on a short board.
It has a fine right that rivals Punta San Carlos for length and often holds up through three distinct sections and gets faster the further you go.
If you do make all three sections the paddle back seems forever. Also there is no distinct channel back outside from the right and turns into seemly interminable duck diving and turtle rolling.
Like I mentioned in a previous post I often choose the inside passage by paddling all the way around to the left channel. It's a long leisurely paddle and the left channel often lets you outside without taking very many on the head. That is unless it gets really big and then it’s a whole different board snapping wave.
Many people choose to surf the second right hand section in that it's faster and not as competitive. If you kick out soon enough the paddle back isn't soo bad. I never surf the third section, aka "The Bone Yard" because like you described in your post it is extremely shallow. That is unless I make it through to the third from the main peak in the same wave.
I used to wave sail the third section fairly often to get away from the crowd. I can remember enjoying that wave so much that I forgot to kick out and rode it to the end and scraping my fin on the reef. I felt really silly standing in thigh deep water barefoot on top of very sharp coral while getting pounded by little one foot waves.

Depending on the day I will ride several rights and then settle in to the left off the peak if it’s not too crowded. It’s a great left that holds up well and deposits you directly into the channel.

The angled wave aka “The Weird Wave” aka “The Portuguese Triangle” I wind surf it occasionally when it gets real big. It has a good right channel that never closes out. It is a very long paddle past the main lower peak. It’s also becoming popular with the SUP gang and that is a blessing for us trad surfers. I hope that trend continues.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 19, 2012 - 12:29am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

also down the road (like in January)it was better at Leo Carillo.
my girl took a pic of me getting swamped.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 19, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
here's a couple photos from my archives
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 21, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
I would like to share an image of two of my all time inspirations.

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 22, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
There both spiritual endevers
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Mar 22, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
sweet pics o man!

I just realized that YER GONNNA DIE!!! is very relevant in surfing. Haven't we all had that moment when we are caught inside of a monster set, or we are paddling over the first wave of a set to see that monster out there that you have no chance of making it over? And everytime I think to myself I'M GONNA DIE!!! but somehow i never do hahaha
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 22, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Damn.
DMBARN

Trad climber
Modesto
Mar 22, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
This is for all you old guys out there. Forgive me if I wax nostalgic.

My first board was a Dale Velzy 9'6". Weighed a flippin ton. But it got me started and before you know it I was saving my pennies, mowing lots of lawns and for my 16th birthday got the latest Hansen "superflex". It wasn't long and the short board revolution hit, boards suddenly became 2' shorter, lighter and the world of surfing changed forever.
There was a guy in the Valley (San Fernado) the made a fortune doing "Cutdowns" at this time. I gave him this board and he would lopp off 2', reshape it and there you go, a short board and you were one of the cutting edge guys.

Suddenly things looked like this:

California street, Ventura

A buddy and I went one evening for the "glass off". It never glassed off but standing in the parking lot at Zuma we noticed line after line stacking up out to sea. This was before the internet and recorded "Surf Reports" and so the only way you could know if it was going to be good was to be there. I picked him up at 4:30 and had Malibu almost to ourselve for about 3 hours at 5-6'. Great day.

This is how it usually looked in the early 70's. Notice there are still a few long board holdouts in the water.

Of course we made our required trek to the islands and stayed in this bungalow at Sunset Point ("Backyards"). We could walk to Velzyland each morning for some great times.

Hope you all don't mind the way-back machine. It's all I got.

Regards,

Doug
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 22, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
doug very nice.
county on monday.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 23, 2012 - 02:14am PT
Hope you all don't mind the way-back machine. It's all I got
Doug, Thanks for posting your story man.Great stuff!!
Hey O-Man, is there a source for the beauty art you've been posting?
roadkillphill,the source is SUPERTOPO














drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 23, 2012 - 09:59am PT
Lovin those shots Doug!

I think it's safe to say, by now, that there is no "surfing vs climbing" ...
Nothing else compares to either!
NO KA OI!!!

Here's my kiwi brother Yama at the Star Bar
[Click to View Linked Image]
YEEEEOOOOOOWWWWW! ¡ORALE!

And one he shared with me from a recent trip.
Supersucks
[Click to View Linked Image]

(!!!/
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 23, 2012 - 10:25am PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
Double overhead (California)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 23, 2012 - 11:00am PT
Glass(stained)
[Click to View Linked Image]
About to hit the lip
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 23, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Here's one Doug can appreciate...and mourn.
[Click to View Linked Image]
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
Mar 23, 2012 - 11:41am PT
'Killer Dana' Point!

Mourn indeed...use to park in the woods/trees right off of PCH and camp there overnight when we were in highschool(san diego)bitd!

Then, POOF, and she was gone...
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Robja

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 23, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 24, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Mar 25, 2012 - 12:08am PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 25, 2012 - 01:04am PT
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5JIJ-TngPoc]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 26, 2012 - 11:08am PT
I'm posting this again because it was at the bottom of the last page...
And because it's fûcking SICK!
[Click to View Linked Image]
My bro Yama at the Star Bar, PE Mex
¡ORALE!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 27, 2012 - 01:07am PT
just overhead at Leo Carrillo.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Mar 27, 2012 - 01:22am PT
When is a guy too old to learn to surf????
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 01:26am PT
Never... just like climbing...

charles
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Mar 27, 2012 - 01:38am PT
Yeah, but surfers are more likely to destroy your car because you were "just there" than climbers are

Just sayin
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 01:59am PT
Depends where you go and who you go with and how you learn... localism exists, but it's hyped too much...

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 27, 2012 - 02:56am PT
Depends where you go and who you go with and how you learn... localism exists, but it's hyped too much...

There are mellow spots (with cool folks) to learn and practice with on the west side in the summer. I would recommend an instructor/guide to get you going in the right direction. Even if you don't make it your greatest passion you'll never regret the time spent experiencing what it feels like to be a SURFER!
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
Mar 27, 2012 - 03:28am PT
Like they said, depends on where you go, but as a beginner you will most likely be going to a beach break of which there are many public beaches with lots of beach, parking, and surfers with all types of experience, including beginners. We all went through it, the gremmie period & the localism. Just remember the basic rule of thumb in the water; don't take off in front of a guy already on the wave or in a better position when you are both simultaneously scratching to get the same wave. Localism is way over hyped for the most part. And like O-man suggests, prollie would be a good idea to rent a board and get a 1-2 hour lesson the first time to see if you like it and get a few pointers. Especially if your planning a trip to his neck of the woods(the Islands). If you are, Waikiki would be an excellent intro to the sport with the origional Hawiian Beach Boys as instructors!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 27, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
Ghoulwe... it should be fairly easy for you to arrange... just sayin...
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Mar 27, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
To be clear, I have surfed before (10 years ago) just not enough or good enough to call myself a surfer...

I even had Jeff Clark make me a board... Used only once. :(

The anchors that kept me off the board are gone...

So im taking a lesson this weekend to get things started...

Signed
41 year old drowning climber guy under that board
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 27, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
So im taking a lesson this weekend to get things started...
Ghoulwe, I'm looking forward to progress reports + any tips you get from your instructor. We all can use new info from time to time. Stoked for ya Dude!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Mar 27, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Even if you don't make it your greatest passion you'll never regret the time spent experiencing what it feels like to be a SURFER!


Those are some motivating words friend.... I'll carry those for a while...

Progress report will follow.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 27, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Mar 28, 2012 - 12:03am PT
^^ OK - Where?
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 28, 2012 - 12:06am PT
County line.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Mar 28, 2012 - 12:06am PT
This is a great shot of the Tijuana Sloughs (small day December, 1967) - that's Dempsey Holder and I don't know who else. You really don't want to go in the water there these days.

Dempsey speaks (sound familiar?):

Back in West Texas where I was raised there were lots of cowboys, but that didn’t mean too much.
The thing that was a real compliment was to be a stockman.
That’s like a waterman—somebody that can handle themselves in the water.
Emergency come along—you can take care of yourself.

[Click to View Linked Image]



o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 28, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Mar 28, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
Great photo.

One on the far right is screaming - Hey it's my wave!

Second rightmost - is that a tandem act or a double fin?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 29, 2012 - 12:24am PT
surfing culture article!
this month's Malibu times.

T R

climber
Ca.
Mar 29, 2012 - 01:06am PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 29, 2012 - 01:10am PT
we all love that one!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Mar 29, 2012 - 01:41am PT
Yeah, that is a great pic!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 29, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
Bump for Pyro's delightful image!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 30, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
O-man what about the sweet 16yr old marilyn?
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 30, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
"Seams to me,you lived your life like a candle in the wind" E.J.
Norma Jean Baker was a total babe!
Tommy Zahn, Well, He is the man !!

She chose a great crowd to hang with. IMO
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Mar 30, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
My good friend Dave (DC) Chalmers and Max at Coronado.
Max was one of the very first surfing dogs. Because
of the way Dave lived his life until he died from melanoma,
Max probably rode more waves than most surfers.

femaleexpat

Mountain climber
Sactown, CA
Mar 30, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Im a chick.

I surf and I climb and I climb higher.

If you are going to ask me which sports I prefer, then I tell ya that climbing is more rewarding! But I also like bouncing on water.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Mar 30, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Femaleexpat
We're from the same area (sacramento / El Dorado Hills).
What's the story, have our paths maybe crossed?
Me: Jay Renneberg
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 1, 2012 - 12:18am PT
This is totally worthy!
http://video.mpora.com/watch/QAKJagQwD
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Apr 1, 2012 - 12:23am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1789197/surfboard-for-sale

I know there are a lot of surfers on here so her is a good deal.

Col 6'5" x 18 3/4" x 2 3/8"

$250 comes with deck patch. Almost new, maybe surfed 6 times. Too small for me.

You come pick it up, no shipping.

SLO, Central Coast, CA
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 1, 2012 - 12:36am PT
i've done climbing at night but not surfing at night! great video.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 1, 2012 - 01:47am PT
Hipwood - Tasmanian Devil alright.
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Apr 1, 2012 - 01:54am PT
Just saw o-man's image of the dolphins riding a wave on the previous page. Actually saw about four dolphins playing and doing just that in moderately heavy surf off of Carlsbad today! Very cool. One also jumped straight up and came back down in likewise manner! Needless to say, my kids and me were thrilled.

As for surfing, one of these days, one of these day. Definitely "speaks" to me. Just gotta live close to the coast so I can get regular. I live very close to the base of the San Gabriel Mountains, so I am not complaining from that perspective!

Eric
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 1, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
Follow up as promised.

Saturday at 11am I met up with a surf instructor.
We proceeded out to Cowells.
The early morning was 30 mph winds and rain so I think many people just didn't show up.

Once we got to the beach, there was zero wind!

We had Cowells almost to ourselves at 3'-4'...

Instructors was great! Ron from Santa Cruz Surf School.

He gave some assistance with getting positioned for incoming sets etc.

First wave I go for.....
I paddle,paddle, power paddle, power paddle, I feel the board lift..... Oh my Gawd this us awesome!!!! Quick move to my feet. Front foot drug a bit but landed perfect center. IM SURFING!!!!! I rode that wave till I hopped off the board!!!!!

That's it!!!! I love this sport !!!
It's just amazing the way the waves just roll forward and we can cruise their smooth face.

Now remember, this is Cowells in Santa Cruz... As Crouch said, "the girl scouts of surfing".
I do not care... I was having a freKin blast!!!!

We spent 2 hours out surfing... Many falls. Many missed waves. Lots of seals.

I bought a new wetsuit and I am trying to figure out how I can get back out again this week.
Surfing and climbing..... What a life!!!!

I am all smiles!!!!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 1, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
Nice!
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Apr 2, 2012 - 02:36am PT
Smiles indeed! Thanks for the report!

Eric
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Apr 2, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Maybe kind of corny but I had to post it.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

It brings back memories of heading out for North County San Diego on the weekends. Sitting on bean bags in the back of something like this, but quite a bit less stylized.


Dad had a Pipeline dub, made on a reel to reel. The song copied twice without a beat missing in between. It lasted just a little longer. Riding skate boards goofy foot. He tried to get me to start natural. Finally, he gave up, and said well you can surf it someday. His dream board is still hanging in our house.

Saturday nights, we slept on the floor of a friend's condo in Del Mar. No furniture. Now, the place is probably worth a King's ransom.

Finally, if you need a board, you can ride mine. (maybe pay just pay for the repairs if needed.)
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Apr 2, 2012 - 11:28am PT
part of the history

[Click to View YouTube Video]

aloha nui ...
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 2, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
This thread seems about to blast off!
[quote]Quote Here[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHpjILzv1P4][/quote]
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Apr 2, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
once again

[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 2, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
I can't seem to get enough Pipeline
Here's some video that Karen Lang shot of me on a typical summer day a while back.
Dick Dale and Stevie Ray's cover of Pipeline.
https://vimeo.com/12477758
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 2, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
k-39. I think tecnically it was k-38.5, but when we used to surf there in the late sixties it was very uncrowded.

Does anybody remember The Challengers?

[Click to View YouTube Video]
murse

Trad climber
San Clemente
Apr 2, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
I'm just glad that i've surfed San O on an 8 foot day and stood atop the North Six Shooter. I'll never forget either of those moments and both pursuits keep me coming back for more.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 2, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
Equal time for some spongin'[Click to View YouTube Video]
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 2, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
^ They're all very skilled, but I think the Teahupoo waves are more impressive (it's interesting to read some of the reactions to body boards and stand ups too)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lMDg6ht_sE

and then Laird Hamilton drops in on a SUP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtzzXHPlby0

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 3, 2012 - 12:12am PT
this is the way to go when it's windy and big.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 3, 2012 - 12:16am PT
When the wind is good (I don't think the swell matters that much), you don't see anybody sittin' in the water. They're all cruising up and down the line. I stopped and talked to a couple kite guys and they said the transition from surfing isn't major and pretty much everybody shares without the conflicts you see elswhere. Thumbs up.

roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
Apr 3, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
Great posts and pics. Really like this thread.
I was just wondering though, is it a coincidence that "sport," as in climbing; rhymes with "short," as in board?
I think not.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 3, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Click on the link below to see some video that I shot of Karen, Caprice,and Natasha ripping it up at Kanaha a while back.I think it has playful spirit
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6Wrrjubqeo&feature=player_embedded]
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Apr 3, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Waves have been goooooooood lately.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Apr 3, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
Scored some amazing / warm surf down in the southern hemi (or actually on the equator i guess) last week. This is at San Cristobal in the Galapagos Islands.

7-10 foot SW swell rolled in for a couple days, and it was going off here. Had it to myself every morning. Except one day, when there was a little local surf competition. The groms were shredding, and amazed by my whiteness haha. Luckily I tanned out a bit by the end, but still being a foot taller than anyone on the island and the only one with blue eyes and blonde hair, definitely made me stick out where ever i went.
Every take off, it was best not to look down at the nearly exposed /sometimes out of the water reef.
The sea lions were very playful and not afraid of humans.
Pound some stubs into the tree and bam climbing route! I wanted to get a look at the anchor, but it was out of site....the rope was a little scary looking.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Apr 3, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
Ghoulwej says it all

Surfing and climbing..... What a life!!!!

I am all smiles!!!!!

right on
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 3, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
Great trip report briham89! surfing over a beautiful coral reef in warm clear water with abundant sea life,and tree climbing too, very cool!
We have had a visiting Hawaiian Monk seal at our launch spot lately. Here's a link to a story that that I put together about it.
http://mauiwindsurfing.blogspot.com/2012/03/goldie-and-seal.html
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Apr 3, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
haha cool o-man and thanks. Such playful animals!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
I opened Surfers Journal 21.2 and in the back I found "The Leavitt Lists", by Randy Leavitt...

Top Ten Reasons why Rock Climbing Sucks (compared to surfing):
10 - No jet skis: They can get you into some really good places/waves.
9 - Videos: Climbing videos can be boring compared to surfing videos.
8 - Money: A lot more of it if you are a pro surfer.
7 - Training: You have to do a lot less as a surfer.
6 - Eating/Drinking: That is part of your training as a surfer.
5 - Bikinis: You can actually see them while surfing, rather than just in pictures.
4 - Posing: It is hard to pull of being a poser in surfing. You could hang on bolts, posing on America's hardest sport climb, Jumbo Love (5.15b), but try that at Teahupoo!
3 - Highlights: The best day surfing is better than the best day climbing.
2 - Rest Days: Surfers don't need to take rest days.
1 - Getting Barreled: I would list this twice, but I am out of numbers.

Top Ten Reasons Why Surfing Sucks (compared to rock climbing)
10 - No jet skis: They do not exist in climbing so you don't have to deal with them and you don't have to listen to them.
9 - Travel: Traveling with surfboards sucks.
8 - Language: The lexicon for climbing is way more deep and interesting and rarely involves the word "dude" or "bro". There is also a lot more to talk about than just getting "pitted", "worked", "barreled", and "spit".
7 - Doesn't blow out: Surfing does blow out, climbing doesn't.
6 - Photos: It is a lot easier to get nice climbing photos and you don't need a yellow helicopter.
5 - Sharks: There are no sharks in climbing. Ditto with kelp.
4 - Localism: It really does not exist in climbing.
3 - Consistency: Climbing is always there and you rarely have to wait for conditions.
2 - Crowds: Basically, these don't exist in climbing.
1 - Climbing Gyms: They are way ahead of any pie-in-the-sky wave pools (for now).

So what say you? There are some points I don't agree with, but that is besides the point. How do you stack these two top ten lists?

Charles
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 4, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
Yep.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 4, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Pretty fûckin splitter right on accurate dude.
Siiiick list leavittator, full on.


socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2012 - 12:26am PT
Someone here at the gym just showed me a video from Sunday shot at Ghost Tree in Pebble Beach, going at about 30 foot sets, maybe bigger (he says 40 but I think he is making the fish bigger than it was...) he said there was one guy out paddling in...

Charles
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2012 - 02:17am PT
^ agree...

Charles
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 5, 2012 - 02:46am PT
Something awesome about surfing:
No partner...
Its a totally selfish endeavor done on your own terms

Something awesome about climbing:
The lifelong or at least memorable friends that are made when you have "the right partner".
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 5, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Maui has an abundance of substantial waves but there is one glitch and that is wind. So in order to fully take advantage of these dynamic waves you really need a wind sport in addition to traditional paddle in tactics.
In the link below I have tried to share a fairly typical winter day in my neck of the woods.
http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2011/08/another-great-day-at-beach.html
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 6, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Probably the best barrel session I ever had was on a Good Friday.

Beachbreaks are more often than not, very fickle. My local spot was no exception, with magical windows lasting sometimes only half an hour.

Even though I could walk to Trestles from my house, the allure of catching the beachie when it was ON kept me checking there first. I noted angles, periods, and tides. Made sure to check right before dark, and hope for the right windchimes to wake me up for the dawnie.

Trestles was always good, and most of the time, crowded. It was always a small victory to catch Lowers good midday, or when the surf cammers were fooled.
But catching Park meant so much more.

More challenge(wave, not crowd). More risk and more reward. This beachbreak is not a typical gradual sloping sand bottom with waves breaking way outside. It is a ledgy, steep beach with an occasional rock. Super tide dependant.

So when spring would roll around, with combo swells, cleaned up storm surf, windswell, and early offshores that quickly changed...my spidey senses would tingle.

That one Good Friday dawned with just the right combination of factors to make it go off. Added factor- no one else thought it would be good that morning. Not a creature was stirring...
I suited up at home watching that weather girl Jillian and coffeeing up. I didn't need to check it, i knew it was on.
I rode over and started down the trail. My first view down the canyon was a sweet one. A frames. Spit. No one out. Not big, not small- juuust right. Like porridge.
I ran down the trail, amping.
The paddle was cake, as the wave breaks close, and conditions were superclean, and soon enough a nice little bump came my way.
I was riding my 6'0 RNF- a kind of fish/shortboard hybrid, twinnie with a chip trailer.
Easy in, fade off the bottom, eye that obvious step, and schhhhhhhhhhhhwwwwiiiiiissssssssss. Barrelled.
Again.
Repeat.
That step was there every time, so easy to read, so easy to set up, so easy to make.
I must've gotten, I don't know, 20 barrels that morning before the tide and wind made me go to work.

I show up at the house I'm painting and am hanging up my wettie when the homeowner drives up. He's a surfer too.
I'm all stoked and he's all bummed.
He went to Trestles.
And it SUCKED!



Sorry for the spray but every Good Friday I remember that session.
Especially now that I'm in Tucson.

Edit
Waaaaay earlier in this there are pics of this spot and it's many moods .
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 6, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
Sorry for the spray
drljefe,That ain't spray that's a great story! I am stoked that you shared it,it being Good Friday and all. 20 Barrels before work, now that's a gooood friday and something to to remember my friend.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 6, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
Right on o man!

I had kind of set a goal to get good at surfing the beachbreak. Aside from being fickle, it was often tricky and sometimes heavy.
All the points are so easy(and fun) that it makes you feel like Kelly Slater with hair. Try surfing a faster, or hollower, or trickier wave and feel like a kook.
So i surfed the beachbreak when it sucked, when it was wrong, blown, whatever.
I really tried to remember everything that made it work, and even then it would suck, or i would.
Slowly i figured out the nuances of the beach, the wave. I built my skills and reaction time.
The days when it all would come together were awesome.
Then i would go back to the points and just amp out on how long and forgiving the waves were. Paddling for hours. Tired legs.
And crowds.
Like Warbler said, you spend a lot of time surfing the crowd. Even with friends, or a spot in the lineup, it gets old.
What i can say is that it prepared me well for roadtrips to other spots when they were crowded. Whether putting on the cloaking device, or the hood and warpaint, I could usually get my share at Rincon or wherever.
Love those pointbreaks!!!!
But man, give me a dredger with no crowd and a short paddle and I'm a happy guy!

Damn i need a surf.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 6, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
I don't remember if i posted this link here or not...
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DYwH_0W0ml08&v=YwH_0W0ml08&gl=US
If it doesn't work, search "aloha travis"
He was my good friend and died too young.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 7, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
Smooth cruise or slash & burn?

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Gerry Lopez in my friend Lyle's (L. John Hitchcock) 1972 film Island Magic:
with Santana Guajira. He looks Goofy to me.

//Que lo que quiere guajira
Si tu quieres bailar
Yo te agarro la mano
Y vamos a bailar//

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 7, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
"Without rock we would all be surfers." David Lovejoy

[Click to View Linked Image]
Little doubt as to where Sheridan stood in all this...
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 8, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Kai is the future!
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anO4312YfmE&feature=sh_e_top&list=SL]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 9, 2012 - 01:08am PT
"Without rock we would all be surfers." David Lovejoy
I got some great waves today and that makes me very happy.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 9, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
Without surfers everyone would be a paddleboarder?

[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 10, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Congratulations Albee!
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HDnzijmx--g]
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Apr 10, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
SUP AT WEDGE?!?!?! now i have seen everything
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 10, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
Why don't they (SUP) use leashes?
miwuksurfer

Social climber
Mi-Wuk
Apr 10, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I just ordered a 12' Bark Stock paddleboard for the summers here in Santa Barbara and I'm already tired of explaining that it is not a SUP.


Ps. Rincon was lovely today.
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
Apr 10, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Reilly SUPers usually wear leashes. At the wedge almost no one wears leashes because the wave is so damn powerful you don't want to get sucked by your board (especially a big as SUP). When i lived down there I didn't use a leash on my body board or surfboard.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 11, 2012 - 01:01am PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:33am PT
I never surfed County Line.
Countless times checked, never saw it looking worthy, at least not better or more appealing than Secos, which is where I liked more and would end up surfing.
Yep, never saw it look good.
Except once.

After a late night with Joe Strummer and the Mescaleros at the Troubador, my bro and I slept in his van in the dirt lot on the bluff there.
I woke up to the rig shaking, figured we were getting rousted by the man.
Nope, just 40mph Santa Anas.
When i got out to take a leak the door was nearly ripped from the hinges.
Red dust was being blown into the lineup making the waves rust colored.
And boy were there waves.
One crispy critter sat in his truck watching and coffeeing up. I had no coffee, by the way, and the closest being down at Trancas, i was barely human- especially after the night on the Strip.
Anyway, homie gets out of his faded truck, with his faded, holey wetsuit, full 80's surf mullet, grabs his old single fin which looked like an over ripe bananna, and skips down to the cobbles.
The waves were goingthefûckoff. Overhead peaks with crazy offshores, slow mo, peeling, hollow.
Homie was the only one out and his first wave was a gem- faded into the tube with a casual pose, emerged with the lookback. Dry hair.
Next one, same thing.
He basically put on an old skool style clinic.
Aside from being tattered from the Troube and without proper caffeination, we just couldn't bring ourselves to spoil this guy's solo session.
Watching was just too much fun

So the one time i actually saw half decent waves at County Line, I didn't even paddle out.

Secos was good later.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:40am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Great read

Thanks!


I look forward to having the skills to be that guy
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Headed out today for Santa Cruz, then catching the big bird to Kauai. Warm water, surf and sun. Only bummer is that I blew my ankel up last week and looks like I'll be swimming instead of surfing. Damn! I guess I'lll be fishing a lot with a bucket of coldies watching the hommies rip it. Been looking foward to warm water waves all winter. Oh well , just roll with it . injuries suck
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 11, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
pyro that’s a soulful image brah.

drlefe that was a great narrative with much aloha.
I respect that you honored homie’s solo expression session.

east side underground, sorry to hear about your injury.I look forward to your report from Kauai.

It looks good for ocean activities around here for the next while.
adam d

climber
Apr 11, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
I've been surfing my face off the last 2 weeks. Home breaks in San Luis Obispo, down in San Diego, Big Sur...and have been catching some fun swell. Some highlights:









Got the Montana de Oro Biathalon this day...surfed the canyon in the morning, hiked the peak with my lady in the afternoon.


For non-surf related reasons I'll be in Malibu this weekend and will scope County Line and Secos...maybe Jefe's old school mullet man can teach me a thing or three.

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 11, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
Willow lookin good!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 12, 2012 - 10:17am PT
A few randoms

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]
hang loose supertopo
(!!!/

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
I hope that you fully tear it up Murry!

Just another jaunt for THE CALIFORNIA SEX GOD! LOL
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 12, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 12, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
Honolua. Bucketlist.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
http://now.msn.com/now/0405-surfer-punches-shark.aspx

Anyone hear about this guy today?

Charles
domngo

climber
Canada
Apr 12, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
this thread makes me happy - thanks everyone for sharing!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 12, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
this thread makes me happy
Rode a bunch of great waves today. SMILE!
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 13, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
SUP AT WEDGE?!?!?! now i have seen everything

Not quite everything! While you're waiting for Mr. Hamilton to put in his appearance check out the guy @1:09 going over Teahupoo Falls.

[Click to View YouTube Video]



o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 13, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Apr 13, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
I'm not a surfer, but in case it wasn't posted previously, I figured some of you might appreciate this stunning film by Mickey Smith. Seems it's garnered a fair number of awards, and I realize it's a few years old.
[Click to View YouTube Video]


makes me wonder if there is (or could be) a climbing equivalent.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Apr 14, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
Leaving on the sailboat in t-minus 9 hrs and counting. Destination: warm crystal clear waters 48 hrs away.
Surf? Hopefully, but it doesn't really matter...
Climbing? Probably not, but it doesn't really matter...
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 14, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
I believe this image compliments both pursuits nicely.
The climber is Matt Grieger. The route is Wings & Stings, on Hammer Dome.

Photo on loan from Matthew Fienup, copyright http://www.EarthworksClimbing.com
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 14, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
Largo shooting the curl on Hyperion.








GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 15, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
Today
I saw the sunrise while sitting on my surfboard in the ocean.
I surfed with dolphins (less than 5 feet away from me).
I broke a fin off my surfboard with my head (it'll scar).

I love today.... It's a good one

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 15, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]


[Click to View Linked Image]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 15, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
GhoulweJ --
Today
I saw the sunrise while sitting on my surfboard in the ocean.
I surfed with dolphins (less than 5 feet away from me).
I broke a fin off my surfboard with my head (it'll scar).

I love today.... It's a good one
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 15, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
Nice.
Clean that cut well!
And be thankful for FCS.
What happened? Cord bunjy the board back into your head?

RickA- been down to Rivies recently?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 15, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
Yeah it sprung back at my head.
I still suck at surfing so I probably did something to make the problem more likely.

I sure am enjoying my work travels with both a surfboard and a climbing pack in my truck... Awesome
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 15, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
SUP and long waves (2:15, 1.09Km)

http://www.naishsurfing.com/2012/lifestyle/videos.html?task=play&id=35&sl=search&layout=listview
Chango

Trad climber
norcal
Apr 15, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
Santa Cruz November thru April, Yosemite May thru October. Some people would walk away from a decent life to have what we sometimes take for granted.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 16, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
Me and a hand full of my pals rode some substantial waves at Noriega's yesterday.
What a sesh!
The right channel was open and hardly any penalty's were assessed.
That makes me very happy.
This might be the last really big west swell of the season.
Today looks good as well
Full On, Game On!
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 17, 2012 - 08:06pm PT

I asked my buddy Mike about Pavones:

Machete Attack on Surfers at Sea

http://www.rightthisminute.com/video/machete-attack-surfers-sea
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 19, 2012 - 01:17am PT
Machete Attack on Surfers at Sea

Too bizarre to be real.Or not?
He sure gave that stand up guy a good paddling.
Please post up as this story develops.
Violence is never cool!
john hansen

climber
Apr 19, 2012 - 01:23am PT
O man,, is that on Maui,,
I live on the Big island but can't imagine where that would be.. is that the I'ao needle in the background??
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 19, 2012 - 11:22am PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Apr 20, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
Please post up as this story develops.


Probably not too much more will show up in the news, but Mike's headed down in about a month. I'm still waiting for my invitation.

However, 2-19-12:

The Judicial Investigation Police OIJ report said that the attacker was attacking the US citizens because earlier in the day they almost ran into the mans daughter while she was also out surfing adjacent to them. The US citizens were also told that the surf break was private and they should leave, multiple times before this happened. In Costa Rica you cannot own the surf of the ocean, so anyone can surf this wake. We think that this was simply a mad local who is tired of having foreigners take over his surfing grounds that he has surfed for years. Which is obviously unacceptable and close minded.


The best way to deal with a situation like this (or avoid it altogether) is to talk it out on the beach with the locals before you go into waves for the first time. No one should ever get attacked over something like this, but common surfer etiquette is to make peace with and get acceptance from the locals before you surf where they do. A community meeting to discuss this event should definitely be in order for Pavones locals and foreigner business owners.

Not really news, but there a ton out there, for example:

Yeah this place has changed a LOT in the past few years. For every 1 machete attack you see on the news 20 go undocumented. There is a real drug problem developing in Pilon just down the road from Pavones. The area is a key drop spot for drug dealers to fly their stuff into Costa and distribute. Its not uncommon to see needles and other drug paraphernalia laying on the beach near the corner. This past summer the the local landmark the Cantina was burnt down due to some sketchy feud going on in town. The place just isn't the same anymore and its easy to understand why. Once your down there your on your own. Few local people actually make money off the traveling surfers and that has forced them to look for other means to make a living like stealing, selling drugs, ripping people off. There are 2 police officers for the entire area and they are likely paid off to look the other way. All that aside, its become such a popular destination that every swell over 5 ft is ridiculously crowded and INFESTED with brazilians. This place is quickly losing its magic and will be lost forever very soon.

I'm taking up outrigger canoe paddling. Much safer.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 20, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
FATAL SHARK ATTACK IN SOUTH AFRICA
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/fatal-shark-attack-in-south-africa_69573/
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 20, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
R.I.P. David Lillienfeld[Click to View Linked Image]
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Aww sh#t. Condolences to family and friends. Kind of takes the wind out of one's sales.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:21am PT
R.I.P. David Lillienfeld
I didn't know him but sad to here of his passing.
O man,, is that on Maui,
John, It's at Kuau on the north shore of Maui. I live right there. That is my home brake. It's a pretty good one and gets some size. It's always a good idea to watch the horizon at Nori's especially on a rising swell. Many of us have been caught with our pants down and had a can of WA handed to us.
Note about the image that I wrote a while back."The sesh started out with some delightful waves in the over head range and grew bigger as the day went on. By the end of our sesh we had dropped in on some real bombs! We were also getting clobbered if we were caught on the inside. The larger sets were closing out the right channel and there was nowhere to go. Nori’s on a rising swell can be really serious!
All four of us called it a day when the sets were coming in consistently around triple over head range.
That is way past my comfort zone. Dale’s new board was snapped in two . He had to swim in with half a surfboard."
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:34am PT
hey Oman ur the man!

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 22, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
pyro, I would really love to go to Namotu. My friend Mike Waltze was one of the developers of that resort. Everyone I know that has been raves about it.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Apr 22, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
I would love to go there also Oman. my Buddy Stevie (butoou)went there. Stevie is a friend/surf buddy whom lives in Malibu.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 27, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
Well it's transition time here in my neck of the woods. It's time to start to think about generating some income to off set all those days that I blew of work opportunities so I could be on the ocean.
Most of the traveling nomads have left the north shore and have gone home or to other destinations.
Our beach is practically deserted.
Most of the drama is quieted down and injuries are healing.
What a season this has been!
The talk now is south swell!
Pete and I cruised over to take a look at the south shore yesterday but were skunked and didn't even get wet. I am going to look at it today but the web cams are going to have to show some real promise before I make the drive again.
I thought this up date was cool so I thought I would share it.
Aloha , Olaf
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/progression-update-chapter-two_69787/
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Apr 28, 2012 - 11:23am PT
Just got back from the islands , foot still jacked, no surf for me. My bro enjoyed some fun Pakala and Hanalei. Murry, the only thing I've torn up is my ankel!
Pavones has a long history of violence and was first surfed by the drug dealers . I went there in 1986 and it was pretty mellow since few ex-pats were living there. In 1990 I lived in Bajo Mancito , a small bay near Golfito, building a private fish camp, we would boat to Pavones to surf. A surf camp had started up and many Haoles had moved in and built houses. Lots of problems with sqatters and very crowded line-ups. Haven't been back since. This same senario is repeating itself at breaks all over the world. Edit; Hey JEFE, next time on the Eastside look me up, Cheers
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 28, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
miwuksurfer

Social climber
Mi-Wuk
Apr 28, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
Just went for a paddle (prone) and saw a couple gray whales towards shore. Closest being 100 feet away. This was near the mesa in Santa Barbara. Very invigorating.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Apr 29, 2012 - 01:28am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 30, 2012 - 01:22am PT
BI tested positive for BAD ASS!!
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Apr 30, 2012 - 02:00am PT
Agassiz always looks like a wave to me. Crystal Range, Desolation

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 30, 2012 - 02:16am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Dirk

Trad climber
QUEENS NEW YORK
Apr 30, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
I love climbing in all it's forms, and I really enjoy reading blogs like Evening Sends, No Way Down, The Stone Mind, etc. But when it comes to surfing, well, I just surf.

What are your favorite surfing blogs?
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Apr 30, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
Most of the surfing blogs that I like aren't just about trad surfing they cover the ocean experience. Like my buddy Geampaolo"shttp://mauisurfreport.blogspot.com
I know that I am biased but I like my own ocean blog a lot as well
http://mauioceansports.blogspot.com/
That is just a link to the home page and mission statement. If you browse the list of activities you will find that we cover trad surf in addition to
windsurf,kite,SUP,and much more.

I would like to share this talk that one of my all time surf hero's gave in Australia recently
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oK9CPWJgC8&feature=youtu.be
briham89

Trad climber
los gatos. ca
May 2, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Lowers Pro streaming on surfline right now!

edit: better link here: http://www.nikelowerspro.com/live/
Double D

climber
May 2, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
Just like the photo from LA Times

North

climber
May 2, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Not trying to hijack this thread. Fantastic by the way. Trying to sell a Fish board and wondering if anyone has any websites that would work for me. The usual ones haven't worked, ie Craigslist, Ebay. Thanks. Now back to cragging and slashing.
bixquite

Social climber
humboldt nation
May 2, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
where you at north? im in humboldt , how far north are you?
North

climber
May 3, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Bix, Sent you an email.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 3, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
Surfing provides for better dinners too.

[Click to View Linked Image]

Take note of the Yates adjustable daisies in use.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 4, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 5, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
My back yard
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 7, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Worlds Fastest Wave Is Saved!
http://surf.transworld.net/1000146461/news/world%E2%80%99s-fastest-wave-saved-by-surfrider-foundation/[/url]
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 7, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 7, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
^ From my observation, the kite-surfers get more riding time than anyone.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 7, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Pyro judging from your photo it seems like everyone is getting along just fine.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 9, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
bob

climber
May 9, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
F*#KING YOWZA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I felt like the man (knew I wasn't though) when I surfed double overhead. I just can't fathom giant waves. That pic is sick.

Bob J.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 9, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Down the road apiece. Gotta wait for the wind, but no sitting waiting for waves once it picks up!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 9, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
Here's an amazing story highlighting some history on one of the more famous waves of modern times.

SHIP’S PERIL IN FIJIAN WATERS,1806 by Stephen Cline

In the Naval Library in London is a wing called Admiralty Records. This area contains nearly 300 years of ship’s logs and records of Admiralty proceedings. There is a vast section on courts-martial due to the fact that every time a ship was lost or taken such a proceeding was convened to determine whether the captain had done his utmost to save his ship, or if there had been some dereliction of duty. In the latter instance, a captain could face serious criminal charges. In such cases, all of the ship’s officers would be called before a panel of captains and admirals to testify as to the circumstances in question. One case, dated October 1807, contains among its many, many pages of testimony the following account given by a helms - man, a Mr. Lawrence, aboard the ship in question, HMS Ariel. Her captain (rank of Post Captain) was a G. Parker by name, who was being tried for the loss of his ship off the coast of Australia in a typhoon the previous year. Based on other testimony, it appears that Captain Parker acted admirably, saving almost his entire crew. He was acquitted of negligence and given another command. For our purposes here, though, it is Lawrence’s account that holds interest as a striking anecdote of seamanship and surfing lore (as well as 19th century, naval, colloquial speech). This particular story was told not about the actual wreck of the Ariel, but of a prior event as an example of the captain’s ship-handling skills. What follows is a verbatim transcript as recorded by the two court clerks present.


YOU HA’ HEARD, sirs, already from Lieutenant Furner of the Captain’s steadiness in the engagement with the French Frigate, Rendezvous, off Madagascar. So I’ll tell you of his seamanship, for I ha’ ne’er before nor since seen the like of it.

As you know, we was continuin, as it were, where Cook left off (he bein kilt and all) cruisin and chartin the isles of the South Pacific. Beautiful it were, sirs, I can tell you, but too it were dread dangerous with all uncharted reefs and shoals everywhere a body cast an eye. Why, a ship could fetch dry on coral in the middle of deep blue with not a bit of earth in view from the foretop. And nighttime bein the worst of it, swingin in our hammocks listenin for the breakers over the sound of the bow wave and wind in the riggin. Nervous work to reel off the leagues and be cautiouslike too.

So, we was layin for the Fijis, runnin on Cook’s charts of Vatoa one dark dawn, me at the wheel, a fair breeze near abeam to larboard1 or maybe to forward a few points, fillin fore and main courses, tops’sls and stays’ls. We was rail down some, six or seven knots I recollect at the last throw of the log, with a smooth surface and a good-sized, well-spaced swell runnin with us.

The Captain came on deck, it bein still dark as I said, as often he did in them waters, and he says, “I thought I heard breakers, Mister Lawrence. Is there land about?”
“None I know of, sir,” I told him, though never did I know a man who could so feel the loom of land below the horizon. He called up to the lookout in the fore crosstree who said he saw no sign. So we held course with nary a cinch needed to trim the sails for the next two turns of the glass. Captain musta felt somethin though for he come up on deck again half through the watch and shortened sail some, not much, a pull or two.
Then, by God, I did hear it, and the Captain too at the same time. Almost at the same minute the sky lightened, suddenlike as it does in the tropics, and the lookout he sings out. No doubtin but it were breakers, almost hidden by the sounds I mentioned before, but then suddenly very loud, and as steady as the drummers of the Coldstream Guards, and close, very close. I don’t wince at tellin you sirs, of a sudden I thought we’d founder on coral the way we feared. But Captain he says to me very cool, “Steady as she goes, Mister Lawrence,” and he quickly looks at his spread of canvas, the quarter of the wind, then dashes up the lee side waist riggin, wraps in arms and legs and claps his glass along the line of the reef. Down he scampers, me thinkin there ain’t time for such comins and goins. As it stood, were we to try to come about there was a good chance the yards wouldn’t come round and we’d get caught in stays and broach to in the swell, or else drift on. Were we to try and jibe to leeward we’d likely drive right onto the reef, for it was coming clear that it were rounding off to starboard. Only other thing I could think of was to throw anchor and try to stop headway, and then warp on cables back to sea using the cutter and the launch. None very likely prospects.

But Captain, calm as May on Thames, says, “Steady on, Lawrence, but mark my commands exactly.” “Aye,” says I, startin to break sweat. “All hands aloft, Mister Manson,” he says to the master, who has the bosun, Mister Benson pipe the men up. Such a flurry of feet and hands you never saw, and not a word, sirs. No, every soul down to cabin boy knew we was in a pinch and we’d either drive hard aground or the Captain would sail us safe. It were a disciplined set o men in the riggin, set to do their duty or die tryin. So, when Captain tells Mister Manson to prepare to strike all sails, the master looks at him for half a second like he’d gone stark mad, for as you know better than me, sirs, to strike sail would be as much as to let all help from the wind go by bare poles. But Manson says nothin but “Aye,” and sets me men in a flash ready to swing axes.
By now we can see the backs of the breakers splash high with white water, and the swells are racing up behind us lifting the stern and heaving us forward several knots faster before passing under us. The midshipmen were callin out soundings as fast as they could count knots on the line, the Ariel drawin nigh on two fathom, and me waiting to hear the scrape of her copper covered bottom. Well, all this was happenin faster than I can tell it.

Then the Captain says to me again somewhat frabbit2 “Steady on, Lawrence,” and looks behind us at the comin swells. I dared not look, but I heard him remark, “Ah, the master wave. Good.” Then to me he says, “Steady, steady. Mark my command exact, Mister Lawrence.” “Aye sir,” I says with a shivered voice.

Suddenly a brute wave comes under us and lifts us. It pushes us with it, fast, like a surf dingy runnin up a beach. White water near come over the bowsprit as we’re lifted stern high. Then Captain calls loud, “Hard to windward, 90 degrees,” and I spin the wheel for my life. The ship come right around and the Captain yells, “Strike sail!” Which Mister Manson repeats, but no one needs to hear a second time, for all of us know in an instant that we are coming up into the wind head on and the sails will catch abaft and stop us dead in the water broached with a breaker right abeam. Sails and sheets fly to the wind, and by the time as we come full to larboard the poles are bare.

Meanwhile I’m holdin the spokes as I said for dear life. The Captain steps beside me and latches on too, sayin, “Hold steady’ By God, we’ve got her riding!” The ship had gone right down the face of the wave, turned near 90 degrees to larboard, and now we were speedin across the face parallel, don’t you see. A wondrous sight, sirs, God’s truth! I thought for a moment that the masts would be rolled by the board in the turn, but they held, though they pitched fierce with men hangin on like rats on a hawser.
Well sirs, we raced across that wave at a hull speed that would ha’ set her ship architect’s jaw agape, me an Captain steerin for the deep water channel, while that wave broke and spit right behind us. I damn well...excuse my language, sirs, but it nearly caught us. I swear the curl came for an instant right over the poop where we was standin and I ducked a little. But Captain he stood straight, starin at the safe shoulder of the wave like it were Christ himself out there callin his name.
And the Lord must love ’im, for soon enough we come skitterin out onto the gentle slope, hearts in our mouths, and he calls out, “Hard to larboard, set jibs then spanker!” And we come turning out over the top of that wave, the wind now instead of bein dead on ahead is off our starboard bow. The jibs open, bringing her further around and we gradually slow to a two-knot starboard tack in deep water, as pretty as kiss my hand. It were a sight, I say sirs, a sight.

The Captain steps away from the wheel and says to Manson and me, “Steer us further into the channel and hove to off that island ahead.” The men aloft suddenly lets out a cheer you coulda heard clear to Portsmouth.
A few minutes later, we was at anchor, knotting and splicing the cup up lines, nary a scratch on Ariel’s bottom. The Captain says to me, and I’ll never forget it, “Fine helmsman- ship, Lawrence, fine.” Tickled I was, though still shook I must say, for, forgettin my place, I asked, “How did you know to do such a thing, sir?” He smiled and said, “I was Lieutenant with Cook in ’79 in the Sandwich Isles, and I saw the natives ride the waves on planks just so.”
Then he walked to the taffrail and watched the shore- line of the beautiful, little island we’d fetched up to. Some natives were coming out in dugouts. They seemed mighty enthusiastic too, seein us surf our ship round that reef. Generous folk they were too, bringing out coconuts and the like. which we ate as if we was clemmed3. They called their pretty little isle Tava Ruah. Aye sirs, Captain Parker can handle a ship.


1—larboard:
left side of ship facing forward, opposite starboard, modern usage: port 2—frabbit: Lancaslcrshire dialect, irritated, short of palienee 3—clemmed: Lancastershire dialect, starving

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 9, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
One of my favorite climbing partners surfed instead of climbed, added a few pounds, and got stuck in the Narrows on the Steck Salathe.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 11, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
An article in today's paper about someone surfing a world record height wave. Including video:
http://www.vancouversun.com/sports/all/Guinness%20recognizes%20surfer%20for%20riding%20gnarliest%20wave%20ever,%2078-foot%20monster%20off%20Portugal%20coast/6606191/story.html

Jim: Is your friend still there?
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 12, 2012 - 11:18am PT
Comment from big wave page.

Bah! 90 foot waves are everywhere now because
of climate change. This morning i caught one to work.
And our receptionist has a 55 footer in an aquarium.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
May 12, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
If you believe that Stephen Cline story of square-rigged surfing from 1806, let me tell you about the time Kelly and I were the only ones out at Teahupoo. A massive set wave comes and I say to Kelly, "Go!", but he says, "No, it's yours!"...
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 12, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
^ Sounds like a couple of kite surfers. They really seem to share the wind and their ratio of paddling and sitting to riding is the lowest in the world.

The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 13, 2012 - 02:49am PT
Rick, why you gotta harsh my mellow. Clearly, from that illustration, the square rigger got pitted. So pitted.

Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
May 13, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Yes. Important to cross-train. That way you don't get bored. Other adventure sports can be included: BC skiing, mtn. biking, even paragliding to name a few.

Hey both can be done is Israel. Very cool. I'd like to go . . .

Promised Land: Israel through the eyes of surfers
http://promisedlandthemovie.com/


Climbing in Jerusalem and Israel:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Asia/Israel/Jerusalem_Area/
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Asia/Israel/
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 13, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
bob

climber
May 13, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Wow, I'm about to head to Yosemite for a week and this thread is messing with that idea! Especially that last photo Pyro! I could be there damnit!!! I could just go to Jalama (no idea where you photo is) for a week and have a blast, get some fishing in, walk peacefully for miles.................. what to do?!?!?!?!?!?

Bob J.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Pro surfers have made it to the table:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 13, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
May 13, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
Is the caption for that?

Boat for Sell. Sightly used.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 13, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Going out is the "easy" part, will be interesting on the return?

Awesome. Kidney belt anyone?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 14, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Kelly at Longbeach.
kbrazil

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
May 17, 2012 - 02:09am PT
Maybe i'm the only one...But does anybody else surf in the river in whitewater kayaks? As long as the flow is up, the wave is always breaking.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 18, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 18, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
kbrazil,

I am pretty sure many kyakers do that(i'm not a kyaker, but it looks fun).

I have also seen surfers(in surf magazine pics)surfing similar river 'waves' on surfboards. One was in Alaska, and one time it was in the Southern Hemisphere somewhere, perhaps Indo(& fairly recently).
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 19, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
WORTHY!
http://www.dailysurfvideos.com/videos/going-left-10-to-19-second-barrels-at-skeleton-bay-1022
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 21, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
"This is the best duck dive shot I've ever taken (and I've taken a few!).
It was her first duck dive and her hair is still dry.
Taken at Uluwalu on Sept 08."GP
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 21, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
O-MAN!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
May 21, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?

No... Not even close or related.

I surf West Virginia.

Betty Uno

Mountain climber
Alti Plano
May 21, 2012 - 06:46pm PT

What's this? The women climbers back then weren't hot? Have you ever looked at Liz Robbins? You're telling me Lynn Hill isn't pretty?

On what planet? All I can think of is that girl named Lauren who died climbing in the Black Canyon in 1978. She was intensely beautiful. She died a climber, she died because she liked to climb. How rude of you to sweepingly remark that there were no hotties in climbing.There were.


If we took the same woman and showed her to you first in climbing clothes, or what passed for them back then, and showed you the same woman in a bikini, you, being a man, are going to find the woman in the bikini more attractive. That is just the way you are wired.

In fact, this proves, once again, that men are ruled by their hormones, and cannot actually see past the end of their dicks.



The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 21, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Easy Betty, easy......

Women climbers ARE hot! Especially the old skool.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
May 21, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Women climbers ARE hot! Especially the old skool.

NOT!

All the climber and outdoor chicks I ever met in the 70s, 80s and 90s were all psycho. I don't care how beautiful a chick may be, I ain't puttin' up with any more psycho nut cases.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
May 21, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Women climbers are hot & cool. & always have been.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 26, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Thanks for body boarding links! More contest news (from http://theshaperstree.com/Surfboards_1959-1968.html);


Right to left: George Downing, Fred Hemmings,Felipe Pomar,
Paul Strauch, Mike Doyle, Mickey Munoz, Ken Adler, Nat Young,
and Carlos Rey an offical of the 1965 contest.

[Click to View Linked Image]

EDIT: What's Mike Doyle so intent on? Somebody drop a wallet?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 26, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
Mickey Munoz once told me
"There aren't bad waves, just bad board selection."
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 26, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
Funny thing, he said to me tam bien.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 27, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
Climbing satisfies my inner urge for problem solving, comraderie, risk and reward, physical and mental challenge, and being oudoors in beautiful places.
A lifelong passion.



Surfing is just plain fun!
Nah, it's much more than that.

Whatever the f*#k it is I'm jonesing!

South swell and warm water, my favorite points, driving 80 on the salt flats, hoping the solar panels make it, waiting for the AFTERNOON offshores(!!!???), firing up the bapper for a surf check, smell of sunscreen, getting a ride back up the point on a dune buggy while chugging a beer, getting barrelled, or riding the tip loaded , burning your bro and doing over/unders, trimming or cutting the fins loose, limes, minus tides, nipple rash, faceplants, hunger, gouging, fading, pushing a local kid in, floating , making the section, wondering how long the ride actually was- my hair is dry, fresh corn tortillas, saying "GO!", falling asleep early and krispy, underground stinky stashes, laughing, roaches under the umbrella, bottom turns!!!, sunsets, hoots and kooks, not giving a shît, hauling ass, courderoy, pearling borrowed 10 footers, swimming, connectors, longboarder chick butts, rock hard sandbanks, giving one away, easy takeoffs, melting wax, smile aches, tired legs, no cord, being the deepest, wanting to never go home, checkpoints, slow semis, dicey passes, wanting to go back.
Wanting to go back.
Wanting to go back.


I guess I'll order a new pair of moccasyms and head up the mountain.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 27, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
This thread rocks! Any one just finding it should start at the beginning. There's some excellent material up thread.
I think we have done a stellar job of dodging the trolls so far.

Whatever the f*#k it is I'm jonesing!
You and me both Cuz!
After a long and intense winter here on the north shore the summer doldrums have set in. Lately you can't find a wave of any significance on any side of this island other than maybe on the east side and that's wind swell and a very long drive for the day. Fortunately I have landed some good work right here on the beach so I can ride my bike the block and a half to and from work and keep my mind occupied till the south swells start kicking in and hopefully that will be soon.
It's very windy on the ocean at the present and I can walk to the beach and wind surf after work any day that I want, but with out waves it is somewhat uninspiring.
BTW: drljefe, Those were some great words as usual!

adam d

climber
May 27, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Sloppy 3-4' windswell beach break this am with a buddy, still worth getting in the water!
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 27, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
re: Mickey - Did you say Quasimoto @ :20 - long time no see.


[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 27, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
I will say this...
The jones for surfing is definitely worse than the jones for climbing.

That little stream of consciousness i just spewed is akin to a junkie's writhing cold sweats, knowing he doesn't have the money for the next fix to get well.

Today,
Climbing = Methodone
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 27, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 27, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 27, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]

Can I borrow your log?
Will you pick me up down the way in about two minutes?
I have cold beer. ..
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 27, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Tropical Storm Beryl was serving them up all morning today. My arms are noodles. STOKED.

[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

There were however, TONS of sharks. Sharks like fun too!
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 27, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
for such a popular move there don't seem to be many captured on film


"The Quasimoto". "Baby Dave" Rochlen perfecting the quasimoto in 1964 at Huntington Beach just north of the pier.

[Click to View Linked Image]

Brian Ladd - "Grab rail quasimoto"

[Click to View Linked Image]


Here's Mickey again, "everybody's learning how "

[Click to View Linked Image]

He's been sponsoring a SUP race for 3 years now.

[Click to View Linked Image]
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 27, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
Figured Phil Edwards musta had one, but only close, head dips, coffins, almosts

[Click to View YouTube Video]
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
May 27, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
+1 on the Jones
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
On Thursday I decided to go climbing:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 27, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
BTW: Great shots Alpine
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 29, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
May 29, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
Maruata Michoacan Mexico
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
All these have probably been posted and are buried deep in the thread.
Missin' my spots.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]

ICONIC
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 31, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
[Click to View Linked Image]
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
May 31, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
I love this thread.

Does anyone have any pics of bodysurfing? I was a swimmer in high school and college and never felt comfortable on a board. I liked being in the water. Though looking at that earlier video of a pipeline bodysurfing contest made me remember that slamming the bottom of a wave was part of why my back is so messed up.. haha. I doubt that I could get it to bend that far anymore. Still love the water though.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 1, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 1, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
o-man and drljefe

Thanks for those photos. My favorite surfing photos are ones with both land and sea in the frame. E.g. o-man's and one of drljefe's middle ones (Trestles?). Oh and surfing photos of difficult boulder problems in the desert are cool, too.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 1, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
Making the best of this summer lull... Pray for swell people!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRTiCH-DlU0&feature=g-upl
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 2, 2012 - 01:22am PT
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
No swell? Go to the big rocks! I'm the little camo'd belayer at the bottom of the frame, my partner gets all the glory of the third pitch lead in a neon salmon colored shirt... excellent photograph by Kyle Queener...

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 3, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jun 3, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Volcom Fiji Pro (live) http://www.volcomfijipro.com/live/
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 3, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
BIOTCH, Thanks for the link! This is a great event!How bout Gabriel Madina's 10?
Edit: There were soo many great rides till that funky wind hit it.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:42am PT
splitter

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Jun 5, 2012 - 01:50am PT
When will the next round/heat be? I had it on at 7:30 their time(12:30 our time)and nothing was going on. Just said surf was 3-4 feet, a bit of a drop from the day before. Some great waves there at Cloud Break. A nice section that they are all getting barraled in. Looks like that lip is coming down hard and wacking a few of the guys. Exciting wave. So is it going to happen tomorrow? Or when the surf picks up?
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 7, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
http://www.surfline.com/video/locals/california-cooper_70500
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 8, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
I surfed two great sessions over on the west side of Maui yesterday.Sesh one started out a bit crowded but it thinned out after about an hour so the next hour and a half I took any wave that appealed to me. The right handers were really working well.
I started to get tired and paddled in rinsed off with the fresh water that I brought,put my board away and jut chilled out for a moment.
Then Trever and Mark showed up so I paddled back out with them and boy am I glad I did. I only got one wave in the second sesh but it was the best wave of the day.
The reports say that the surf is still up so I'm heading back over this morning and then watching the Volcom Fiji Pro in the afternoon.
BTW: It's supposed to get giant for the contest and we are hoping to get some of that swell in a few days.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 10, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
The surf was even better yesterday. I got so many shoulder to head high waves that I was paddled out after three hours. There were just the right amount of surfers out and everyone got a bunch of waves without sharing. I gave so many waves away and still had my pick of the set waves.
I then bought some beer and went home and watched the Volcom Fiji Pro with my friend Mark.
It was a good day!

I surfed another three hour session yesterday in similar conditions although a bit smaller than the two previous days. I went home and watched the Volcom Pro contest from Fiji again.
After three days in a row I am about paddled out but the live video feed from "Lahaina Break Wall" shows more of the same for today.
What to do?
We have a significant south swell heading our way and it should arrive a.m. Tuesday and I have the day off.
I am thinking that I should rest and try to let my paddle muscles and sunburn recover. But I will probably surf again today but maybe not as long.
Today is the final day of the contest in Fiji. It starts out with Kelly Slater in the first heat so check it out. The the link is posted up thread.

So far this event has produced some of the best surfing that I have ever seen and is not to be missed. With the sheer volume of great waves and the talent I wont be surprised if this turns into a one hellova feature film!
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jun 10, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
Fiji is unreal ,great surf and even greater people. warm water surf bump!
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jun 10, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Slater for the win!
Kelly7873

Social climber
Honolulu
Jun 10, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
Any talk about the 2012 Fiji Pro has to mention day 3 when the event was called off for being too "windy" for the best pro surfers in the world.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The last 2 minutes of this video is after they called off the contest.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 11, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Kelly thanks for posting up the video. I watched the event every day after surfing some great waves myself.
I missed the day at "Cloud Break" before they moved it to "Restaurants" when the judges and committee deemed it too big to compete. Many of my friends that did see it say it was the single best day of surfing that they ever saw. The best surfers in the world paddling into some of the biggest barrels imaginable!
As I mentioned up thread that swell is forcasted to arrive on our south and west shores tomorrow A.M. I'm really stoked and hoping that my favorite breaks will hold the size with out just closing out witch is often the case.
The spots that can hold a swell of that size get very busy.
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
Jun 11, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Aloha O-Man,
Hey if you see Kai B. out surfing, please have him get back to the shop to finish up my Scorpius XM.

No pics but I enjoy surfing the oc-1. Saw some of the Fiji action and yea that was some pretty incredible barrels.

will
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Bela

climber
Jun 13, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Climbing, Skiing, Surfing. Three greatest sports on earth!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 13, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
One thing that differs, for me, with climbing and surfing...

When something heavy was going down in my life, I'd go surfing.
Call it avoidance, call it procrastination, call it healing.
It was all of the above at different times, and sometimes all together.
For instance...
I was working in a coffee shop in Dana Point and got a call from my Mom. I instantly felt a disturbance in the force. She didn't need to say it, I already knew. My long lost father had passed away. I had only seen him once since he left when I was ten.
My boss told me to split, so I did, and headed straight down to Trestles on my bike.
Uppers was grey and glassy and chest high waves were hitting the point at a nice angle.
Best of all, there was no one out(???!!! believe me here) and i had a freshly waxed up new board.
It was a very emotional session.
As I waited for waves I stared out at the horizon, knowing my father knew the area well and had sailed the channel countless times. I realized then that we shared a common love for the sea. He was part of me.
When waves would come I put my new board to the test. Winding up and punching. Gouging, pumping, smacking. I was surfing aggressively.
I let out so much anger that I hadn't expressed.
I proved to him I had become a man, a strong man, gotten good at something...without him, but hopefully I could make him proud.
I felt him there, I really did. And it was like the first conversation I had with him as an adult.
When I would kick out in the bay tears would be streaming down my cheeks.
I surfed my heart out. Literally.


Tonight is a night I wish I could go down to the point, alone, and surf my heart out.

The desert is hot, and even if it wasn't, a boulder circuit just wouldn't cut it.
Sitting on top of the boulder and watching the sunset would be nice- introspective and healing. Not climbing, though.
Something's just not the same as salt water therapy.


Edit: sorry to get all heavy or be a downer. Surfing and climbing are supposed to be FUN.
THEY ARE FUN!!!

east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jun 13, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
+1 on the salt water therapy - hope everything is cool jefe - cheers
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 14, 2012 - 12:02am PT
Thanks brother.
[Click to View Linked Image]

As sure as the sun sets, it will rise again.

(and hopefully it'll be offshore, and crackin', and the tide'll be right, and there'll be no one out, and your back will feel good, and your board'll be workin good-- for all you fakkas lucky enough to be close to the ocean.)
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 14, 2012 - 12:13am PT
why not move back jefe? I don't think I could move away, even the 30 minutes it takes now seems too far sometimes.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 14, 2012 - 12:26am PT
I moved back to my hometown to be close to my mom.
There will always be waves.
My mom is more important.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 14, 2012 - 01:42am PT
lately because school is out the Coast has been all zoo'd out! water feels good. did go climbing atPoint Dume the other day!
bump for Ventura surf when it hits!
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jun 14, 2012 - 09:40am PT

One reason I moved from the coast
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 14, 2012 - 10:34am PT
ah... yes your mother is more important. Hit me up if you make it up near santa cruz, I'd be psyched to paddle out with ya!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 14, 2012 - 10:52am PT


pyro

I really like that photo from Ventura(?). Did you take it?
viejoalpinisto

Social climber
Pahrump, NV
Jun 14, 2012 - 11:51am PT
What versus?
viejoalpinisto

Social climber
Pahrump, NV
Jun 14, 2012 - 11:53am PT
not really
viejoalpinisto

Social climber
Pahrump, NV
Jun 14, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
I changed my mind
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Jun 14, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
How about Body Surfing and Climbing ... Complimentary Pursuits?

Yep. Great exercise and a tonne of fun without a board.


Come Hell or High Water (Trailer)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOez2mFNk2s
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 14, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 14, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
This one little boulder problem kept me stoked all last week, and kept my mind off heavy sh¡t.
[Click to View Linked Image]

Hell, even figuring out what to name it kept the chatter at bay.

It's a valid little bulge. A big move to a crimp then another pull to a pocket then the top.
After scrubbing lichen off a few holds, I put it down first try.

I settled on
One Shot V2.

Climbing IS theraputic for me in its own way.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 15, 2012 - 12:27am PT
drljefe, Much respect from this end!

http://www.surfermag.com/features/the-last-supper/
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 15, 2012 - 01:32am PT
brodracula

Trad climber
hawaii
Jun 15, 2012 - 02:58am PT
do you guys know whats even more fun than climbing and surfing.KITEBOARDING non stop action with half the work check it
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 15, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
Bump...
for bumps on the horizon.

Any s. hemi yet?
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 16, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 17, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
very kool shot O-man.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jun 17, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
Whats the surfing equivalent of the Nose speed record?
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 18, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Whats the surfing equivalent of the Nose speed record?
Alpine, I shake my head when I try to comprehend Florine and Honnold's achievement.

These guy's have been charging as well!
http://surf.transworld.net/1000147935/videos/volcom-fiji-pro-cloudbreak-free-surf-session/


Edit: All this Bad ass stuff happened this week.
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 18, 2012 - 01:35am PT
Sh#t, I've resorted to looking into buying a wrongboard. Whenever I have time and want to surf, there's no damn waves. Might have to go down that route to ensure I can get wet when its small. Worst part, they sell used for what a custom shortboard goes for new :-/
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jun 18, 2012 - 11:02am PT

Dave , Do you mean like this beauty? Only I got mine a little longer ( I'm don't get to surf as much) It paddles real NICE!!! Also the quad is way positive on the bottom turn - more than a twin IMO. Yes, a true rocket ship!!!! I don't own a "wrongboard"
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 18, 2012 - 11:49am PT
I have a 5'9 plank of a fish, but I'm talking for the 1-2' on-the-sets days; more waves = more fun and a log might be in my future. A fish is still diminishing returns on those days for me - too much work for what you get back. A noserider seems eminent with summer here.



and I'm usually so anti-logging, you could call me a tree-hugger.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jun 18, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
When I moved to Hawaii about 12 years ago I had never ridden a long board before and never even considered it but as soon as I did my whole experience changed dramatically for the better. I am afraid my short board days are over and there might just be an 8'6" + or- SUP in my future due to the growing numbers of them at most of the breaks that I frequent and especially my local back yard wave Noriega's where often in the winter I will be the only lay down paddler in a group of more than a dozen. I have not crossed over yet ,but, the thought is in the back of my mind a lot.
pyro

Big Wall clim