Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Randy Leavitt once said in a short article that the best day surfing was better than the best day climbing...
My piece on it: the ratio of time spent climbing on a climbing trip is greater than the time spent actually standing on a board on a surf trip of same duration.
For me on the coast I can sneak in a surf in the morning before work, to do that with climbing I usually have to gym it...
At the end of this mornings session though I had about 5 waves, 2 of which were memorable and overall I felt like telling people I had gone out to work on my paddling rather than surfing...
I'm a far better climber than I am a surfer, but there is something to surfing that keeps bringing me back.
Now, billygoating into a chute filled with waist deep fluff, making the turn and blasting out into the bowl at sixty? That is truly sublime, and I don't suck at it like I do at surfing.
head high in Santa Cruz, I'll be enjoying the waves tomorrow! And hitting up castle rock state park for bouldering on the way home. Whoop whoop phuck yea!
Karo , you are rad! But the 4 S are the ones that you: will quit your job, blow-off loved ones , sell your soul, but hey if you feel that way about square- dancing, all the power to ya!
Surfing was absolutely essential to my climbing by 1968. The cardiovascular nature of the surfing in waves over five feet really feeds right into what you need for climbing: terrific cardio power. Similarly, paddling built up muscle sets mostly the same as those used for pulling down.
I have to agree with Randy Leavitt's quote at the beginning in that the best day surfing is better than the best day climbing. However, I can say my best days climbing will stand forever while my best days surfing have long since completely utterly vanished.
That most wave rides are only a matter of seconds, literally is both a beautiful and miraculous thing but also underlines how ephemeral rides and perhaps thus a life in surfing really are.
Climbing is often so painful; I don't remember any pain at all in surfing other than running out of breath and burning big time in desperate paddles avoiding the big unexpected cleanup sets in big surf.
Mixing the two sports has been going on for about fifty years now.
The problem with climbing is it is a constant fight. You must always fight against the constant pull of gravity. As climbers, we develop our whole climbing 'careers' around this. It becomes engrained.
Surfing (and other gravity sports) are the exact opposite. You must literally let go and give in to the force of gravity. Once you are riding it is no longer a struggle or fight.
Great compliments I suppose.
I also like that after a day of surfing you end up CLEANER than when you started.
Surfing and climbing are my two favorite things in the whole wide world.
For me, though, they are not "complimentary". At least not when surfing is the primary gig.
When I lived on the coast, walking distance from some of California's best waves, there was no way in hell you could get me to go climbing. I didn't want to miss something.
Catching the points before the hordes, or checking the beachie repeatedly and watching it go from crap to a draining uncrowded wonderland....that sh¡t took time and dedication. Not to mention developing enough skills to get waves in a crowded lineup at a marquee break, or be able to actually ride when the beachbreak is draining and breaking boards. Couldn't really be "bothered" with the thought of leaving the coast to climb.
Ok, maybe once in a while, when it was genuinely flat and scheduled to stay that way, a run to Woodson, Tahquitz, Black Mtn or Josh was great. But my fingers were made of water, no real serious climbing.
Surfing was way more addicting.
When the medium for your enjoyment wasn't always there, or could change instantly, I wanted to be onnit. After all, that's why i lived there and put up with all the bs socal can offer.
Now, though, living in the desert stoked as hell on climbing, I jones for a proper surf. I'd pass up a climbing trip for a Midnight rambler surgical strike for a day and a half (hopefully) of surf anyday. I have lost my paddle power but luckily the rest is like riding a bike now, but only after 12 years of surfing everyday.
I dunno. I'm babbling. I just had a great bouldering session but maybe it's time for some saltw#ter therapy.
My project will still be there...but will my callouses?
Edit
The only time i climbed and surfed in the same day was sick. Santa Ana low humidity at Rainbow, low tide backlit mysto barrels at Oside jetty. That's livin right there!
I've been surfing since I was 8 (used to stand up on a boogie-board before that), climbing since ~18 months ago. I've often thought of the parallels and contrasts between the two and have thought of writing an essay on them - examples: a rack and a quiver often are worth more than the vehicle in which they are transported, or how I can show up to a crowded break and not say a single word to anyone else for my entire session, yet frequently chat it up with any climber(s) nearby or passing by. Been too lazy to actually write something up.
I have scored epic sessions by skipping out on work or showing up late for thanksgiving dinner - not as likely to happen with climbing. I'm stoked that we've finally had some decent swells since the holidays started - it was pretty sad for quite a while. Missed out on a couple days b/c of a snowboarding trip this weekend, though, but did get a little family climbing in A-hills on the way to Mammoth.
I'm glad I get to choose between some awesome pursuits. While I have had some exciting days on the rock, nothing has given me the feeling of pure stoke when kicking out after a memorable ride; whether its a barrel or just carve after carve down a perfect point. Surfing still has that something extra when it all comes together.
It should be noted that 3 years removed from the coastal/surfing life...
I still wake up early and check the palm trees or flags to see which direction the wind is blowing.
Hey, it's offshore...
LIKE IT REALLY F*#KING MATTERS IN TUCSON!!!
Not climbing OR surfing... I am all for the "have a big quiver" approach. Create a quiver with skills and toys: Climbing, backcountry ski/snowboard, surfing, paragliding, mtn biking, peak bagging and throw in BASE for a couple years and then quit. Then just pick from the quiver as conditions and psyche dictate.
Surfstar- didn't quite get what you meant. i wish I had some better surf shots . I need a scanner for some of the better shots I have. I grew up in your neck of the woods and still do most of my surfing around Pt Conception and central cal. Hoping for a trip to WARM water soon!!!!! Warbler, hope your ankle heals to let you back in the line-up and pack that kid up and go!. Jefe, GET SOME my man!!!.
edit ,I know I've posted this shot before but I love the vibe!!!!
any comparison of surf comps vs climbing comps - was just watching Volcum pipe pro - Heavy- how many climbing comps risk serious injury/death? the boys took some serious beatings. Yea surfstar thats _ been surfing there since I was sixteen - love that wave -
I think the two are complementary in the sense that they both have a primal feel to them; but since they're different elements, rock and water, it makes sense that the nature (pun intended) of the challenges and opportunities that each presents is complementary.
(Disclaimer: Most of my surfing has been on the Washington coast, often not many people out. I've never surfed a crowded SoCal break. That might feel more primal in some ways, but probably less in others.)
I live on the North Shore of Oahu and I don't surf. Don't climb anymore either.
If you haven't seen the recently released body surfing movie from Woodshed Films - Come Hell or Highwater: plight of the torpedo people.
Climbers and surfers both need to go to Jalama beach and eat a hamburger!
Jalama Burger!
sufing Jalama's Tarantulas.
Jalama Winery
we need one of these made for Stoney Point.
I think it's more a function of population density and competition.
I grew up in a beach town with 2000 people, most of whom didn't surf or boogie board, and it was wonderful. It was more crowded on good days, and you could choose to hang in the pack or go find your own spot.
I have plenty of boogie boarding and surfing memories emblazoned for life, just like from climbing. The peaceful connection with nature that comes from hanging out at belays is very similar to that waiting for the next surf set to come in. Just letting your mind wander, or pondering the flecks of sand suspended in the water, or the crystal grains in the granite... different texture, same nirvana.
One unique part of growing up surfing that I liked... you could be in the middle of a deep conversation with someone, waiting on the outside, then you stop mid-sentence and start paddling after the bump on the horizon. Some frenzied activity, barely surviving a few duck dives, a cool wave and some pounding through the impact zone as you paddle back out, and 45 minutes later you pick up the conversation where you left off like nothing happened. I haven't thought about that for more than 20 years, but it's still hanging back in my brain.
I miss my childhood freedom to just wake up, look up and down the coast from my balcony while putting on the wetsuit, and just walk down to where the waves look best. I'm not far from the coast now, and I drive much farther to Yosemite for climbing all the time, but somehow I lost the strong connection to surfing as a way of life. I had it too easy as a kid! Now I have to work for that feeling and I don't chase it. But I do chase it for climbing.
The surfers are as#@&%es topic keeps coming up. I think its a bit unjustified. Imagine if you were out at the crag and multiple gumbies were gumming it up all over the place - top roping hogging the 1st pitch of a classic multi-pitch, spraying incessantly, letting their dogs eat your lunch, and other retarded gumby antics. As a legit non-gumby climber, this would irritate you, right?
Right. Its the same thing surfing just replace the gumby antics with dropping in on someone, paddling out through the lineup in front of someone, ditching your board and shooting it at someone, etc...
If you surf with a decent amount of skill and know your way around a lineup or a wave, you will have no problems. If you can't do those things, then go back to the Swan Slab.
I have been a surfer for over 20 years, and a climber for over 30. I climb 3 days a week in the gym and outside as much as possible, and I try to surf 4 days a week (conditions rule). If the surf is really good I will surf 7 days a week and still try to sneak in a couple of gym sessions. I live only 10 minutes from Sloat in San Francisco and 15 from Planite Granite. It is about as good as it gets for a city slicker. Surfing satisfies my outdoor fix when climbing outside is not an option. Surfing dawn patrol or climbing from 6 to 8 am, really makes my day get off to a good start. I am addicted equally to both.
Pretty much only have crap shots of me surfing. Sorry for the fuzz.
These shots, and the others are all at the same spot(with a few obvious exceptions). Many moods. So cool.
That's one thing about surfing- you can finish what felt like the best wave of your life and you turn around and it's gone. Poof. All you have is the memory, the heartbeat, the stoke. Never to be repeated again. That's what keeps you coming back for more.
That's one thing about surfing- you can finish what felt like the best wave of your life and you turn around and it's gone. Poof. All you have is the memory, the heartbeat, the stoke.
Dr u got it going on!
it must be tough to sit land locked knowing the energy of the wave!
love ur pic's!
Charles i would'nt know the answer to ur question. at the time of the picture i was only thinking of the Jalama burger.
adam d
Your spot sure looks like...
Let's see...is it named after a kind of tree?
If so, I've scored there before.
Muddy local trucks with gun racks...they heckled me for NOT wearing booties(!), obvious souther board...
Luckily my first wave was a gem and I didn't blow it stagefright style.
Oh, and I've surfed socialclimber's spots.
Good times in the foodchain!
Well I climbed this morning and ran out of time this afternoon to surf after helping my Mom with some stuff. Wasn't complimentary today, but the swell is peaking tomorrow morning so I'll still be fine...
It was amazingly "clean" and sunny yesterday in norcal. Far away storms with unusual local weather? I didn't know how to feel. I told myself I'd go check the inside breaks this morning, and possibly go for a swim.
Cheers!
Rising seas, slowly growing coral, disappearing points, eroding cliffs, "higher" wave action, disappearing sand (bars). Better go get after it ...
Well, I used to be a pretty darn good climber, but at 51 I'm just not as strong or psyched anymore, although I can still get out and lead ok stuff. Let's just say I'll be getting a lot worse from here on out!
When I started surfing in '95, I totally sucked. Now I"m pretty good...of course, living in Colorado has its limitations, but I travel a lot to surf. I like the fact that I still have a lot of room for improvement, and don't feel held back by my age.
I think surfing is an easier sport to age gracefully in...climbing just gets hard! Plus, I know way too many people that have died climbing, and I personally don't know a single person that has died surfing. I of course know that lots of people die surfing, I just don't happen to be acquainted with anyone.....wish I could say the same about climbing.
Two amazing activities though!
Pam
Yeah, Ocean Beach is known to be one of the worst paddles in the world. Took me a solid 30 minutes today... took my friend and hour yesterday to get out. But soooo good once you make it out. Today was almost as epic as yesterday
I love heavy beach breaks! The paddle punishment has the same effect as a long approach, thinning the herd. And like hiking in to the wall, the paddle out has its own aspects to enjoy.
And Jefe...yup, that other "not a beach break" does have a tree name and can be really fun. I'd only go out without booties if I forgot mine though. Not my "local" spot, but it's not too far.
It's been EPIC here on the north shore of Maui for so long now that I haven't found time to tune in to the taco. I was delighted to find this thread this morning. I hope to jump in soon in that I am a rock/surf bum kinda guy as well. Aloha Olaf http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com
I love them both. However, I find it nearly impossible to motivate to go to the gym on a beautiful warm day when I can be outside and in the surf. As expected, my climbing suffers. I can think of worse trade-offs.
However, I have found a use for my climbing gear in the surfing arena. While shooting Mavericks on a boat lurching about in the sea, rather than trying to hang on and keep my balance, I girth-hitched a runner to a guardrail on the bow and then clipped a biner into my leather belt. While everyone else was slipping and sliding, I sat back and could shoot the spectacle in comfort. Next time I go out on a boat, I'm wearing my harness.
Right on, Charles. Yes, the neoprene in the morning is always a rough one. That, and getting smacked in the face with the first wave of the morning are always tough barriers, but once they're gone, the bliss begins.
One of the guys on here did mention the large numbers of assholish folks often at the good breaks. That is the one thing that does get in the way for me sometimes. I participate in these sports to get away. Jockeying for position at a Santa Cruz break is kind of a bummer when you're looking for a break.
All the more reason to take a vacation to some deserted, warm beach... with cliffs to climb in the background. :)
Great question. In my opinion as someone who has surfed hard for 30 years and climbed relatively hard and as passionately as anyone for 15 years, they are not complimentary physically but are indeed mentally.
I grew up surfing but have climbed religiously for the past 18 years, and I couldn't agree with Randy Leavitt any more! Getting spit out of a double overhead freight train at Honolua Bay is bar-none the most exhilarating experience of my life, and a sunny-chest high day is about as relaxing as it gets. Topping out on the Diamond or sending my hardest sport project is satisfying,gratifying and a fantastic motivator, but climbing always contains an underlying anxiety for me, whether due to fear or a self-induced pressure to perform. I feel extremely fortunate to have been able to enjoy both activities throughout my life, I just wish Cali wasn't so expensive and crowded.
I surfed a popular Santa Cruz county spot yesterday- it was such a zoo. One thing about climbing is that as you improve you get to climb better less crowded routes. When you get better at surfing you end up at more crowded spots competing against better surfers.
Hay trundlebum, Thanks for the comment on the MP thread. We have just under 33K page views and it's picking up momentum every day. I would like to acknowledge your creative efforts ever since the beginning back in 08. I believe we are one of (if not) the longest running active threads on that website. I have more fun with the thread than my magazine or my blog. I just feel most comfortable in the presence of climbers.
I invite the taco crew to jump in if you have an interest to share the surf/rock bum lifestyle. Cheers Olaf
I would like to share a painting by Tracy Harp she is a a great surfer and wave sailor and a dominant force in the "Kuau Yacht Club"
This is another bump for the climbing/surfing thread.
There has been no lack of world class waves here on the north shore of Maui lately. The only catch is if you are only a surfer you're limited to just the dawn patrol before the wind gets on it and blows it out BUT if you have wind skills you're in the best place on the planet to express yourself in every size waves imaginable.
Many of our core group are accomplished big wave surfers and wave sailors. Some of us are even rock climbers with many first assents and notable walls and peaks to thier credit. It's very hard to be a big fish in this pond. These days I travel back to my home in Colorado to climb. I train very little for climbing these days so my trad leading head is very very rusty but after a few days with my bro's I can still get up a few things. Climbing is always on my mind and I aspire to get the opportunity to do an extended road trip to taste some of those classics that I remember from back in the day. Cheers to all you rock/surf bums here on the Taco! Aloha Olaf
Just back from a great Costa Rica surf trip and stoked to see all the great pics. Have been climbing/skiing many years and learning to surf for quite a few less years. Maybe was once a real climber but will probably never be a real surfer. Too much fun not to keep at it though. But I keep thinking that surfing lacks a killer learning aid that skiing has had for a long time, and realized the answer has been under my butt all along: Chairlifts!! Think about it. An elegant solution to all that tiring paddling and breath holding! The engineering can't be any harder or more expensive than building a pier or drilling platform. What with wave machines and all, I can't believe someone hasn't built one by now. And there's precedent: jumping off a pier, hiking to the point, PWC's, and boats. It would be easy to string one up on the side of an existing pier, too. Any decent beach break could be made accesible to anybody with the price of a ticket, and the whole inside would be open because everybody is riding the chair! You could even limit the onloads to thin out the lineup. And no more wasting time earning respect and giving way....just paddle back from the chair to the takeoff and go. Plus, less time in the water to contract infectious diseases after every rainstorm and runoff event. Sometimes my genius surprises even me. Looking for investors!
Haha also can't tell if he's kidding, but of course someone from colorodo would be the one to want a chairlift at the beach. That could easily be the worst thing that could happen to surfing. The day I have to pay to surf....I can't even finish that sentence! Never!!!!
Yeah, it's a joke! But maybe a little scary, too. Who would have thought 25 years ago that climbing would actually become a competition sport with cheering crowds and circuits and indoor specialists? Lots of parallels between the sports. Now there's even a contest circuit for the big wave guys. For me, at least, surfing and climbing in the end boil down to solitary pursuits, sans crew. Cracks me up to read about people having to wait to go climbing because their photographer isn't ready. And just 'cause I'm from Colorado doesn't mean I ride the lifts.
One winter day a while back my very attractive blond friend Lynn and I were just starting the 1/4 mile paddle out at Kanaha when this Maui Water Patrol man pulled up by us on his County Jet Ski and asked if we wanted a tow. We said " Hell Yeah!" You should have seen the looks on all da bradda's faces when he dropped us of at da peak. Oh well, That was a once in a life time experience. Every now a again I run into Lynn and we most always bring up that tow out.
BTW: Phil I was just about to express my $.02 on your chair ride to the peak idea. Thanks for clearing up the troll and not starting a sh#t storm an this very cool thread. Aloha, Olaf
I didn't mean to start nothin', guys. Just a sarcastic cynical old fart. I wasn't joking about the being surprised nobody had done it yet part though. Seems like it would fit right in with the current adventure travel craze. Crazy big thinkers have come up with some pretty strange things. How about Abalonia? And to answer the thread question, without a doubt.
Finally a post to break out of "lurking" for! We are all so damn lucky to be climbing and/or surfing--the friendships, places and experiences we take are highlighted often in both sports. These are some of my favorite days and piccys to go with...
Glad I am finally returning something to this amazing site...Ive been lurking about other peoples trip reports for some time now...
Heres a few more surf and climb stoke photos of two complimentary pursuits(i.e more shameless self promotion of my own fortunate adventures) Hope you folks enjoy them!
In the spirit of keeping this thread alive I thought that I would like to try and share one of my images of surfing a substantial winter day here on the north shore a few seasons back.
The parking lot isn’t empty but there are a lot of vacant spaces.
Walking through the kiavi trees out to the beach I get my first view of the ocean.
I’m wide eyed and I have a lump in my throat as I stare into the winter swell. With my binoculars I watch one wave after another close out completely.
The waves are so big that I question my sanity for even thinking about paddling out!
I am preoccupied and I don’t realize that my friend Dave has arrived at the scene.
Dave looks at the conditions and says, “Olaf, this is dangerous!"
I reply, “It could be Dave, but let’s paddle out, we don't have to drop in on any of them!"
Having surfed this spot many times we are fully aware of how the hydraulics work over this section of reef.
The size and direction of this swell has changed the character of everything.
The main peak is much further out than normal and there is a breaking wave in the channel.
There are also occasional sneaker peaks popping up in odd places.
I manage to catch few smaller waves on the inside left and started to calm down a bit. In fact I was having fun.
On the horizon I see this "macker" rolling in and Dave and I both start paddling for our lives, were paddling up a dead vertical wall of water! Our timing was good and we both made it over that one.
That really got my adrenaline pumping!
Dave says, "Humm! Olaf, that one was big!"
I reply, "Yeah Dave it was, but take a look at this one!"
The next wave of the set comes out of nowhere.
It totally creams us!
All that I have time to do is take a deep breath, relax, and hang on to my board.
After tumbling in the torrent for a while I surface and I say to myself, “WOW! That one wasn’t so bad.”
I look to make sure if my board is still in one piece. I find it’s still intact.
Thanks to the long intervals between the larger sets the paddle back out side is casual.
Back in the lineup, I notice each surfers face is sporting a serious expression and there is relatively no idle conversation. There isn’t a defined line up, the waves are erratic and the current is so strong that it’s hard to hold any kind of position.
It's every man for himself.
If some fool wants to roll the dice and drop in on one of these waves, every one wishes him well and gets out of the way!
While I’m patiently sitting outside what appears to be a perfect peak comes my way.
I turn and paddle for it.
My timing is late and I am sucked over the falls.
I take a long freefall followed by a violent thrashing!
Next, I get to walk on the reef for a while, and my only thought is that, I need air!
Pulling hand over hand on my leash takes me to the surface. I’m careful not to pull too hard. Once in the past, I actually pulled my board right into my face. That proved to be way more dangerous than the wave.
I’m shaken from the violent pounding of the last wave but paddle back out. I sit the outside the breaking waves for a good long while.
After the last thrashing, I’m not eager to put my life back on the line right away.
.
It’s some time before I able to relax.
Eventually my thoughts turn to idle daydreaming. Thoughts like what I want to be when I grow up or that bonehead thing that I wish I hadn’t said last night replace the tension and terror of my last wipeout.
It’s a lot of work to hold my position where I think the wave will peak.
Some of the other surfers are sitting inside and left. They’re trying to surf in the safety zone created by the left shoulder section. This strategy often works but today the left channel is closing out.
A very steep board-breaking wave takes its place and is catching the unsuspecting surfers off guard.
Then low and behold the most perfect wave manifests right before my eyes. I really don’t have to try to catch it. It is just that perfect.
Two strokes are all that it takes and I’m on it! I’m dropping down the face of this magnificent wonder of nature. It is a perfectly pealing left hand wave with a steep shoulder that goes on forever! It feels like some three star intermediate groomed run at Vail.
With total commitment I set my rail and initiate the bottom turn. I then climb back to the lip and cut back to the peak. With the peak crumbling just inches behind my fin, I smack the lip and then repeat the aforementioned, seemingly interminable drop, rails digging and fins threatening to break loose but still holding their track I glide into the channel!
I hear “hoots” from the other surfers! I know that I have just dropped in on one of the best waves of the day.
I spend another hour getting clobbered without getting another wave.
It‘s a long paddle in but I have had enough of this brand of fun for one day!
Those are some sick shots "briham89"
I really dig the stoke that this thread is generating!
Here's a few images that I shot yesterday afternoon at Hookipa between rain squalls. It was one of those mixed up days with substantial waves, moderate Kona winds and rain squalls. It really wasn't inspiring me to surf so I shot a few photos and talked story with some friends along the way.
Today is more promising. I can here the surf pounding as I write this post.
Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
Since no one has jumped in and given us a more valid comparison in my opinion,I'm gonna continue with this direction for one more post cause I am a guy and I like to see strong beautiful women athletes in action.
"Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don't you think?"
Yep.
I agree with that analogy, and will take it a step further perhaps by saying that one would be the queen of the rodeo(#1 barrel racer)and the other one a biker babe(that cud kick our azz)! ;)
My best surfing pic ever... Ocean Beach last December running a nice northwest swell.
And note, Leavitt, this is the REAL Ocean Beach... although the wave makes that obvious, no? Here's hoping you come back with a nice "assisted surfing" pic, RSL...
Better try dropping into a similar sized North OB Jetty barrel, cranking one off the bottom before ya kiss the rocks & then sending it down the line and out the other end...before ya make dem claims, bro!!
EDIT: not that we need any promo's, but a claim is a claim...
Characteristics(per wannasurf/surfline):
Alternitive name: OD Jetty(did i mention the take-off/particularly approaching dubl-o-head)
Wave quality: Regional Classic
Experience: Pros or Kamikazi's only(did i mention the take-off??)
Wave length: Normal day(50-150m) Good day(150-300m)
Power: Hollow, fast, powerful...
Dangers: Man-made(buoys, rocks, etc./did i mention the take-off??) -- Localism -- Polution(from SD River/only after rain).
(Ours doesn't do so bad in the surfline write-up, either...)
It's the consistent size that makes SF's OB... when I was living in Santa Barbara, where I grew up and learned to surf, swell size like in the pic I posted would be the day of the year...up here, it's nothing overly special, just another day in a good week.
Hey O-Man, is there a source for the beauty art you've been posting? Good stories, too. Wish I could surf like that....have to settle for the drop into Highlands Bowl this time of year....Free your heel, free your....whatever.
That's freaking rad Chris. I've been trying to think about what in climbing compares to getting shacked and coming out the other end. Maybe sending a hard route or summitting on a wall. Or maybe there is no point in comparing and just enjoy the stoke of each.
edit-My neighbor Ian Walsh said this about this video:
"This is one of the only videos i have ever seen that shows exactly what it feels like to ride a massive wave in Tahiti."
Everyone likes to paint a nice picture of how their sessions go and I am not any different.
But there is only one way I can describe how this winter is going for me and that is GNARLY!
We have been having back to back advisory/warning level swells and nuclear winds.
Being an avid wave sailor I should be delighted but so many mishaps have occurred that I am getting worn down. I had back to back rib injuries earlier in the season. Then I had another injury that I won’t go into that wasn’t surf related.
Surfing and wave sailing in substantial conditions require you to be in top condition and I really haven’t been injury free most of the season. When you’re a wave junkie like me it’s hard to sit on the beach and be a spectator and not to go out.
Now I have had some great surf and wave sailing sessions this season but lately it has been very challenging and I am not the only one that is feeling the wear.
Two weeks back it was just sick big! I sailed the day before it got totally out of control and I caught one session as that swell was dropping. In both of those sessions I was careful not to get caught inside. This was followed by another bump of equal proportions. The wind was so off shore that there was next to no wind on the inside and blowing like stink on the outside so it was next to impossible to choose the proper kit. What do you do? It’s very important to rig big enough so you have enough power to get through the impact zone but if you do you wind up so over powered on the wave that you can’t express yourself on the wave face. This being the case you tend to rig small and hope for a break in the sets so you can sneak out side without getting clobbered. In one of my sesh’s I was held under longer than I have in a very long time.
In the last week the giant long period N/W ground swells have dropped off but they were still there. They have been replace by massive tight interval S/E wind swell producing 20’++ faces. Now this isn’t all that bad in that the faces of these waves are fairly smooth and easy to ride but ya always got to keep an eye out over your shoulder and make sure that the wave behind you isn’t going to eat you when you kick out the back.
The first part of last week it was so stinking windy that I chose to wait till later on the day hoping for the wind to recede and each day as I was about to launch the wind just crapped out once due to a passing rain squall and the other it just dropped bit by bit I showed up with a 3.7m and before I got on the water it had dropped a notch. Not wanting to go out in surf of the magnitude under powered I walked back to my place and got my 4.1m sail. No sooner did I get it rigged the wind dropped another notch. I could have or maybe should have just gone back home a got my 4.7m but by this time I was getting frustrated. So I just took my stuff home and put it away.
The next day I wasn’t going to let that happen again so I went earlier and rigged my 3.7m and went out I got creamed on my way out but eventually made it outside. It was so windy that it was very hard to manage but I got some great waves (I also almost sailed right on top of a whale that was cruising along the surface not very far outside the impact zone) before I decided to go in. The spot that I typically sail has one of the most technical launch and returns on the north shore. I have had just about everything imaginable happen to me in the last thirty meters. This day the current was running like a mountain stream in spring runoff. With a rip running that strong and no wind on the inside I fell in a very bad place. I made an effort to swim with my gear but it was futile so I decided to water star and go back outside and give it another shot.
By this time the current had a firm hold on me and before I knew or could do anything about it I was in the middle of the bone yard and these two to three foot demons were pounding me into the rocks time after time. I have been in this place in the past and know that is no use in fighting the inevitable. I just tried to not get clobbered by my gear as the waves crashed us on the rocks. It’s very entertaining to watch someone get the living S..t kicked of them in that rock garden.
Well I came out of that relatively unscathed but my 78ltr. Quatro wave board took some big hits and my 3.7m Goya wave sail suffered some serious bruises. After that I collected the carnage called it a day.
The next day looked better. So I showed up at the beach and rigged and went out I was immediately taken out time after time. Finally this one substantial wave hit me. Typically when I get hit by a wave that big I let my rig go and then swim after it. But several of my friends lost their entire rigs in the past two days due to the extreme currents generated by this vigorous N/E wind swell so I held on. The power of that wave combined with the resistance of me hanging on was too much for my Goya 370 mast and it folded.
I have been in this situation several times in the past and realize that there is nothing that I can do but keep hold of my gear and start swimming for shore. The current was very strong and my choices of possible landing sites were very limited due to cliffs and jagged rocky beaches. My first choice was the back of the bay but that possibility soon diminished so I set my sights on Blue Tile House Beach at Tavares Bay this seemed possible but as I worked my way closer I realized that the current wasn’t going to let me come in there. Well next possible place was Spy Glass house but I dismissed that option remembering the last time I tried that spot.( I just got beat up severely on those rocks and my gear suffered majorly).
The next possible port was Buddha Bay. I have retrieved numerous wave sailors that have broken down and washed in at that spot over the years. None of those guys had a positive thing to say about that spot.
As I got closer I realized that the current was going to push me right past Buddha Bay and I set my sights on Paia Bay and wasn’t dismissing the possibility of landing at Baldwin Beach even further down the coast.
I was completely at peace with my situation in that it wasn’t close to dark yet and there wasn’t any thing that I could do other than go with the flow.
That‘s when I noticed my friend Dean sitting on a kayak with a big smile on his face. I told him that I was glad to see him but didn’t know if there was anything he could do to help other than hang out and keep me company while I worked my way to the next possible landing spot.
Dean had strapped a surfboard leash to the back of the kayak and told me to hang on and he would try to tow me against the current into Buddha Bay. I was doubtful that this was going to work but I was getting tired and more than willing to give it a try.
Surprisingly we made slow but steady progress toward the shore.
We could see the waves pounding at Buddha Bay and knew that we were going to have to come up with a plan.
The last thing we needed was for Dean and his kayak and me and my sailboard rig to be taken out by a sneaker set while trying to land. The thought of the two of us and the gear tumbling in the same wave was not pretty.
Then the next thing that I know a head popped up out of nowhere. Tracy had been watching and swam out to help with negotiating the dicey last bit. She had been scoping out the best place to come in and had it all figured out.
The next thing I noticed was Viktor standing on the beach spotting the best place as well.
With all these wonderful friends helping, the landing went seamlessly and we carried everything up on to the lawn at the Buddhist Temple and I started to de-rig my broken rig.
Next Pete showed up. He had gone into town and grabbed a 12 pack.
We went back to the launch and had a beer. We talked story for a while, and watched another Maui sunset.
All in all it was just business as usual in my neck of the woods.
I’m sitting here trying to remember some of the details of a recent surf sesh I had and
it’s real hard to focus on any single wave other than this one.
At the beginning of the sesh I dropped in on a couple of bombs that were nothing but a big clean drop to a big close out.
Then Kanaha started really showing her teeth and she was in a foul mood.
Not many guys were going for the set waves and I found out why.
I was sitting pretty far out when something rose up on the horizon.
I immediately started paddling out as fast as I could.
I paddled for a long way and I didn't know if I had gone far enough.
By the time the set got to me I still wasn't clear of this makker set.
I paddled up vertical faces that I don't have any I idea of how big they were, but, they spooked me.
One after another I paddled over three of them and just barely cleared the lip before it threw.
I kept eyes on the horizon as I caught a couple smaller waves that were closeouts as well.
I was hoping for one good wave and then I was going to call it a day.
I was sitting off to the left of what I thought was the peak when this smaller looking glassy peak rolled right up to me.
It was a perfect right hander.
I hardly had to paddle.
I made two strokes and popped up into a low aggressive stance.
I dropped down the long smooth face.
I charged back up that smooth face for almost as far as I had dropped at the peak.
Just when I was initiating my top turn the wave decided to throw.
And boy did it!
I had a full head of steam when I collided with this exploding peak. I was thrown far in the air and my board was thrown even farther. When it had stretched my leash as far as it could the board rebounded. It powered back at me like one of those paddle balls on a rubber band.
I remember seeing the fins as they passed by my face.
Then it happened!
I landed right in the epicenter of the force that the wave was producing.
I was violently pummeled and held under for an uncomfortably long while.
When I came up I only had time for one deep breath before the next equally sized wave dumped on my head.
This went on for several more waves.
Each one of them delivered a severe beating.
All I could do is breath when I got the chance and try and protect my board as best I could.
When that set subsided I paddled back out and caught a couple more smaller waves before calling it a day.
I was asked by several guys how my sesh was and all I could tell them was that I caught some big waves and I paid for them
O-man, awesome read. Kanaha has some juice. Where were you surfing exactly? Off where it gets shallow, lower reef? Do you know the angle wave to the right of that area?
Studly,
Obviously you're familiar with the wave at Kanaha Beach Park here on Maui.
I typically surf the main peak at lower Kanaha.
For me it's primarily a long board wave in that it’s a ¼ mile paddle out and it can be a bit mushy and hard to get into on a short board.
It has a fine right that rivals Punta San Carlos for length and often holds up through three distinct sections and gets faster the further you go.
If you do make all three sections the paddle back seems forever. Also there is no distinct channel back outside from the right and turns into seemly interminable duck diving and turtle rolling.
Like I mentioned in a previous post I often choose the inside passage by paddling all the way around to the left channel. It's a long leisurely paddle and the left channel often lets you outside without taking very many on the head. That is unless it gets really big and then it’s a whole different board snapping wave.
Many people choose to surf the second right hand section in that it's faster and not as competitive. If you kick out soon enough the paddle back isn't soo bad. I never surf the third section, aka "The Bone Yard" because like you described in your post it is extremely shallow. That is unless I make it through to the third from the main peak in the same wave.
I used to wave sail the third section fairly often to get away from the crowd. I can remember enjoying that wave so much that I forgot to kick out and rode it to the end and scraping my fin on the reef. I felt really silly standing in thigh deep water barefoot on top of very sharp coral while getting pounded by little one foot waves.
Depending on the day I will ride several rights and then settle in to the left off the peak if it’s not too crowded. It’s a great left that holds up well and deposits you directly into the channel.
The angled wave aka “The Weird Wave” aka “The Portuguese Triangle” I wind surf it occasionally when it gets real big. It has a good right channel that never closes out. It is a very long paddle past the main lower peak. It’s also becoming popular with the SUP gang and that is a blessing for us trad surfers. I hope that trend continues.
I just realized that YER GONNNA DIE!!! is very relevant in surfing. Haven't we all had that moment when we are caught inside of a monster set, or we are paddling over the first wave of a set to see that monster out there that you have no chance of making it over? And everytime I think to myself I'M GONNA DIE!!! but somehow i never do hahaha
This is for all you old guys out there. Forgive me if I wax nostalgic.
My first board was a Dale Velzy 9'6". Weighed a flippin ton. But it got me started and before you know it I was saving my pennies, mowing lots of lawns and for my 16th birthday got the latest Hansen "superflex". It wasn't long and the short board revolution hit, boards suddenly became 2' shorter, lighter and the world of surfing changed forever.
There was a guy in the Valley (San Fernado) the made a fortune doing "Cutdowns" at this time. I gave him this board and he would lopp off 2', reshape it and there you go, a short board and you were one of the cutting edge guys.
Suddenly things looked like this:
California street, Ventura
A buddy and I went one evening for the "glass off". It never glassed off but standing in the parking lot at Zuma we noticed line after line stacking up out to sea. This was before the internet and recorded "Surf Reports" and so the only way you could know if it was going to be good was to be there. I picked him up at 4:30 and had Malibu almost to ourselve for about 3 hours at 5-6'. Great day.
This is how it usually looked in the early 70's. Notice there are still a few long board holdouts in the water.
Of course we made our required trek to the islands and stayed in this bungalow at Sunset Point ("Backyards"). We could walk to Velzyland each morning for some great times.
Hope you all don't mind the way-back machine. It's all I got.
Depends where you go and who you go with and how you learn... localism exists, but it's hyped too much...
There are mellow spots (with cool folks) to learn and practice with on the west side in the summer. I would recommend an instructor/guide to get you going in the right direction. Even if you don't make it your greatest passion you'll never regret the time spent experiencing what it feels like to be a SURFER!
Like they said, depends on where you go, but as a beginner you will most likely be going to a beach break of which there are many public beaches with lots of beach, parking, and surfers with all types of experience, including beginners. We all went through it, the gremmie period & the localism. Just remember the basic rule of thumb in the water; don't take off in front of a guy already on the wave or in a better position when you are both simultaneously scratching to get the same wave. Localism is way over hyped for the most part. And like O-man suggests, prollie would be a good idea to rent a board and get a 1-2 hour lesson the first time to see if you like it and get a few pointers. Especially if your planning a trip to his neck of the woods(the Islands). If you are, Waikiki would be an excellent intro to the sport with the origional Hawiian Beach Boys as instructors!
So im taking a lesson this weekend to get things started...
Ghoulwe, I'm looking forward to progress reports + any tips you get from your instructor. We all can use new info from time to time. Stoked for ya Dude!
This is a great shot of the Tijuana Sloughs (small day December, 1967) - that's Dempsey Holder and I don't know who else. You really don't want to go in the water there these days.
Dempsey speaks (sound familiar?):
Back in West Texas where I was raised there were lots of cowboys, but that didn’t mean too much.
The thing that was a real compliment was to be a stockman.
That’s like a waterman—somebody that can handle themselves in the water.
Emergency come along—you can take care of yourself.
My good friend Dave (DC) Chalmers and Max at Coronado.
Max was one of the very first surfing dogs. Because
of the way Dave lived his life until he died from melanoma,
Max probably rode more waves than most surfers.
Just saw o-man's image of the dolphins riding a wave on the previous page. Actually saw about four dolphins playing and doing just that in moderately heavy surf off of Carlsbad today! Very cool. One also jumped straight up and came back down in likewise manner! Needless to say, my kids and me were thrilled.
As for surfing, one of these days, one of these day. Definitely "speaks" to me. Just gotta live close to the coast so I can get regular. I live very close to the base of the San Gabriel Mountains, so I am not complaining from that perspective!
Saturday at 11am I met up with a surf instructor.
We proceeded out to Cowells.
The early morning was 30 mph winds and rain so I think many people just didn't show up.
Once we got to the beach, there was zero wind!
We had Cowells almost to ourselves at 3'-4'...
Instructors was great! Ron from Santa Cruz Surf School.
He gave some assistance with getting positioned for incoming sets etc.
First wave I go for.....
I paddle,paddle, power paddle, power paddle, I feel the board lift..... Oh my Gawd this us awesome!!!! Quick move to my feet. Front foot drug a bit but landed perfect center. IM SURFING!!!!! I rode that wave till I hopped off the board!!!!!
That's it!!!! I love this sport !!!
It's just amazing the way the waves just roll forward and we can cruise their smooth face.
Now remember, this is Cowells in Santa Cruz... As Crouch said, "the girl scouts of surfing".
I do not care... I was having a freKin blast!!!!
We spent 2 hours out surfing... Many falls. Many missed waves. Lots of seals.
I bought a new wetsuit and I am trying to figure out how I can get back out again this week.
Surfing and climbing..... What a life!!!!
It brings back memories of heading out for North County San Diego on the weekends. Sitting on bean bags in the back of something like this, but quite a bit less stylized.
Dad had a Pipeline dub, made on a reel to reel. The song copied twice without a beat missing in between. It lasted just a little longer. Riding skate boards goofy foot. He tried to get me to start natural. Finally, he gave up, and said well you can surf it someday. His dream board is still hanging in our house.
Saturday nights, we slept on the floor of a friend's condo in Del Mar. No furniture. Now, the place is probably worth a King's ransom.
Finally, if you need a board, you can ride mine. (maybe pay just pay for the repairs if needed.)
I can't seem to get enough Pipeline
Here's some video that Karen Lang shot of me on a typical summer day a while back.
Dick Dale and Stevie Ray's cover of Pipeline. https://vimeo.com/12477758
I'm just glad that i've surfed San O on an 8 foot day and stood atop the North Six Shooter. I'll never forget either of those moments and both pursuits keep me coming back for more.
^ They're all very skilled, but I think the Teahupoo waves are more impressive (it's interesting to read some of the reactions to body boards and stand ups too)
When the wind is good (I don't think the swell matters that much), you don't see anybody sittin' in the water. They're all cruising up and down the line. I stopped and talked to a couple kite guys and they said the transition from surfing isn't major and pretty much everybody shares without the conflicts you see elswhere. Thumbs up.
Great posts and pics. Really like this thread.
I was just wondering though, is it a coincidence that "sport," as in climbing; rhymes with "short," as in board?
I think not.
Scored some amazing / warm surf down in the southern hemi (or actually on the equator i guess) last week. This is at San Cristobal in the Galapagos Islands.
7-10 foot SW swell rolled in for a couple days, and it was going off here. Had it to myself every morning. Except one day, when there was a little local surf competition. The groms were shredding, and amazed by my whiteness haha. Luckily I tanned out a bit by the end, but still being a foot taller than anyone on the island and the only one with blue eyes and blonde hair, definitely made me stick out where ever i went.
Every take off, it was best not to look down at the nearly exposed /sometimes out of the water reef.
The sea lions were very playful and not afraid of humans.
Pound some stubs into the tree and bam climbing route! I wanted to get a look at the anchor, but it was out of site....the rope was a little scary looking.
Great trip report briham89! surfing over a beautiful coral reef in warm clear water with abundant sea life,and tree climbing too, very cool!
We have had a visiting Hawaiian Monk seal at our launch spot lately. Here's a link to a story that that I put together about it. http://mauiwindsurfing.blogspot.com/2012/03/goldie-and-seal.html
Maui has an abundance of substantial waves but there is one glitch and that is wind. So in order to fully take advantage of these dynamic waves you really need a wind sport in addition to traditional paddle in tactics.
In the link below I have tried to share a fairly typical winter day in my neck of the woods. http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2011/08/another-great-day-at-beach.html
Probably the best barrel session I ever had was on a Good Friday.
Beachbreaks are more often than not, very fickle. My local spot was no exception, with magical windows lasting sometimes only half an hour.
Even though I could walk to Trestles from my house, the allure of catching the beachie when it was ON kept me checking there first. I noted angles, periods, and tides. Made sure to check right before dark, and hope for the right windchimes to wake me up for the dawnie.
Trestles was always good, and most of the time, crowded. It was always a small victory to catch Lowers good midday, or when the surf cammers were fooled.
But catching Park meant so much more.
More challenge(wave, not crowd). More risk and more reward. This beachbreak is not a typical gradual sloping sand bottom with waves breaking way outside. It is a ledgy, steep beach with an occasional rock. Super tide dependant.
So when spring would roll around, with combo swells, cleaned up storm surf, windswell, and early offshores that quickly changed...my spidey senses would tingle.
That one Good Friday dawned with just the right combination of factors to make it go off. Added factor- no one else thought it would be good that morning. Not a creature was stirring...
I suited up at home watching that weather girl Jillian and coffeeing up. I didn't need to check it, i knew it was on.
I rode over and started down the trail. My first view down the canyon was a sweet one. A frames. Spit. No one out. Not big, not small- juuust right. Like porridge.
I ran down the trail, amping.
The paddle was cake, as the wave breaks close, and conditions were superclean, and soon enough a nice little bump came my way.
I was riding my 6'0 RNF- a kind of fish/shortboard hybrid, twinnie with a chip trailer.
Easy in, fade off the bottom, eye that obvious step, and schhhhhhhhhhhhwwwwiiiiiissssssssss. Barrelled.
Again.
Repeat.
That step was there every time, so easy to read, so easy to set up, so easy to make.
I must've gotten, I don't know, 20 barrels that morning before the tide and wind made me go to work.
I show up at the house I'm painting and am hanging up my wettie when the homeowner drives up. He's a surfer too.
I'm all stoked and he's all bummed.
He went to Trestles.
And it SUCKED!
Sorry for the spray but every Good Friday I remember that session.
Especially now that I'm in Tucson.
Edit
Waaaaay earlier in this there are pics of this spot and it's many moods .
drljefe,That ain't spray that's a great story! I am stoked that you shared it,it being Good Friday and all. 20 Barrels before work, now that's a gooood friday and something to to remember my friend.
I had kind of set a goal to get good at surfing the beachbreak. Aside from being fickle, it was often tricky and sometimes heavy.
All the points are so easy(and fun) that it makes you feel like Kelly Slater with hair. Try surfing a faster, or hollower, or trickier wave and feel like a kook.
So i surfed the beachbreak when it sucked, when it was wrong, blown, whatever.
I really tried to remember everything that made it work, and even then it would suck, or i would.
Slowly i figured out the nuances of the beach, the wave. I built my skills and reaction time.
The days when it all would come together were awesome.
Then i would go back to the points and just amp out on how long and forgiving the waves were. Paddling for hours. Tired legs.
And crowds.
Like Warbler said, you spend a lot of time surfing the crowd. Even with friends, or a spot in the lineup, it gets old.
What i can say is that it prepared me well for roadtrips to other spots when they were crowded. Whether putting on the cloaking device, or the hood and warpaint, I could usually get my share at Rincon or wherever.
Love those pointbreaks!!!!
But man, give me a dredger with no crowd and a short paddle and I'm a happy guy!
Reilly SUPers usually wear leashes. At the wedge almost no one wears leashes because the wave is so damn powerful you don't want to get sucked by your board (especially a big as SUP). When i lived down there I didn't use a leash on my body board or surfboard.
I never surfed County Line.
Countless times checked, never saw it looking worthy, at least not better or more appealing than Secos, which is where I liked more and would end up surfing.
Yep, never saw it look good.
Except once.
After a late night with Joe Strummer and the Mescaleros at the Troubador, my bro and I slept in his van in the dirt lot on the bluff there.
I woke up to the rig shaking, figured we were getting rousted by the man.
Nope, just 40mph Santa Anas.
When i got out to take a leak the door was nearly ripped from the hinges.
Red dust was being blown into the lineup making the waves rust colored.
And boy were there waves.
One crispy critter sat in his truck watching and coffeeing up. I had no coffee, by the way, and the closest being down at Trancas, i was barely human- especially after the night on the Strip.
Anyway, homie gets out of his faded truck, with his faded, holey wetsuit, full 80's surf mullet, grabs his old single fin which looked like an over ripe bananna, and skips down to the cobbles.
The waves were goingthefûckoff. Overhead peaks with crazy offshores, slow mo, peeling, hollow.
Homie was the only one out and his first wave was a gem- faded into the tube with a casual pose, emerged with the lookback. Dry hair.
Next one, same thing.
He basically put on an old skool style clinic.
Aside from being tattered from the Troube and without proper caffeination, we just couldn't bring ourselves to spoil this guy's solo session.
Watching was just too much fun
So the one time i actually saw half decent waves at County Line, I didn't even paddle out.
Headed out today for Santa Cruz, then catching the big bird to Kauai. Warm water, surf and sun. Only bummer is that I blew my ankel up last week and looks like I'll be swimming instead of surfing. Damn! I guess I'lll be fishing a lot with a bucket of coldies watching the hommies rip it. Been looking foward to warm water waves all winter. Oh well , just roll with it . injuries suck
I've been surfing my face off the last 2 weeks. Home breaks in San Luis Obispo, down in San Diego, Big Sur...and have been catching some fun swell. Some highlights:
Got the Montana de Oro Biathalon this day...surfed the canyon in the morning, hiked the peak with my lady in the afternoon.
For non-surf related reasons I'll be in Malibu this weekend and will scope County Line and Secos...maybe Jefe's old school mullet man can teach me a thing or three.
I'm not a surfer, but in case it wasn't posted previously, I figured some of you might appreciate this stunning film by Mickey Smith. Seems it's garnered a fair number of awards, and I realize it's a few years old.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
makes me wonder if there is (or could be) a climbing equivalent.
Leaving on the sailboat in t-minus 9 hrs and counting. Destination: warm crystal clear waters 48 hrs away.
Surf? Hopefully, but it doesn't really matter...
Climbing? Probably not, but it doesn't really matter...
Today
I saw the sunrise while sitting on my surfboard in the ocean.
I surfed with dolphins (less than 5 feet away from me).
I broke a fin off my surfboard with my head (it'll scar).
Today
I saw the sunrise while sitting on my surfboard in the ocean.
I surfed with dolphins (less than 5 feet away from me).
I broke a fin off my surfboard with my head (it'll scar).
Me and a hand full of my pals rode some substantial waves at Noriega's yesterday.
What a sesh!
The right channel was open and hardly any penalty's were assessed.
That makes me very happy.
This might be the last really big west swell of the season.
Today looks good as well
Full On, Game On!
Probably not too much more will show up in the news, but Mike's headed down in about a month. I'm still waiting for my invitation.
However, 2-19-12:
The Judicial Investigation Police OIJ report said that the attacker was attacking the US citizens because earlier in the day they almost ran into the mans daughter while she was also out surfing adjacent to them. The US citizens were also told that the surf break was private and they should leave, multiple times before this happened. In Costa Rica you cannot own the surf of the ocean, so anyone can surf this wake. We think that this was simply a mad local who is tired of having foreigners take over his surfing grounds that he has surfed for years. Which is obviously unacceptable and close minded.
The best way to deal with a situation like this (or avoid it altogether) is to talk it out on the beach with the locals before you go into waves for the first time. No one should ever get attacked over something like this, but common surfer etiquette is to make peace with and get acceptance from the locals before you surf where they do. A community meeting to discuss this event should definitely be in order for Pavones locals and foreigner business owners.
Not really news, but there a ton out there, for example:
Yeah this place has changed a LOT in the past few years. For every 1 machete attack you see on the news 20 go undocumented. There is a real drug problem developing in Pilon just down the road from Pavones. The area is a key drop spot for drug dealers to fly their stuff into Costa and distribute. Its not uncommon to see needles and other drug paraphernalia laying on the beach near the corner. This past summer the the local landmark the Cantina was burnt down due to some sketchy feud going on in town. The place just isn't the same anymore and its easy to understand why. Once your down there your on your own. Few local people actually make money off the traveling surfers and that has forced them to look for other means to make a living like stealing, selling drugs, ripping people off. There are 2 police officers for the entire area and they are likely paid off to look the other way. All that aside, its become such a popular destination that every swell over 5 ft is ridiculously crowded and INFESTED with brazilians. This place is quickly losing its magic and will be lost forever very soon.
I'm taking up outrigger canoe paddling. Much safer.
John, It's at Kuau on the north shore of Maui. I live right there. That is my home brake. It's a pretty good one and gets some size. It's always a good idea to watch the horizon at Nori's especially on a rising swell. Many of us have been caught with our pants down and had a can of WA handed to us.
Note about the image that I wrote a while back."The sesh started out with some delightful waves in the over head range and grew bigger as the day went on. By the end of our sesh we had dropped in on some real bombs! We were also getting clobbered if we were caught on the inside. The larger sets were closing out the right channel and there was nowhere to go. Nori’s on a rising swell can be really serious!
All four of us called it a day when the sets were coming in consistently around triple over head range.
That is way past my comfort zone. Dale’s new board was snapped in two . He had to swim in with half a surfboard."
pyro, I would really love to go to Namotu. My friend Mike Waltze was one of the developers of that resort. Everyone I know that has been raves about it.
Well it's transition time here in my neck of the woods. It's time to start to think about generating some income to off set all those days that I blew of work opportunities so I could be on the ocean.
Most of the traveling nomads have left the north shore and have gone home or to other destinations.
Our beach is practically deserted.
Most of the drama is quieted down and injuries are healing.
What a season this has been!
The talk now is south swell!
Pete and I cruised over to take a look at the south shore yesterday but were skunked and didn't even get wet. I am going to look at it today but the web cams are going to have to show some real promise before I make the drive again.
I thought this up date was cool so I thought I would share it.
Aloha , Olaf http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/progression-update-chapter-two_69787/
Just got back from the islands , foot still jacked, no surf for me. My bro enjoyed some fun Pakala and Hanalei. Murry, the only thing I've torn up is my ankel!
Pavones has a long history of violence and was first surfed by the drug dealers . I went there in 1986 and it was pretty mellow since few ex-pats were living there. In 1990 I lived in Bajo Mancito , a small bay near Golfito, building a private fish camp, we would boat to Pavones to surf. A surf camp had started up and many Haoles had moved in and built houses. Lots of problems with sqatters and very crowded line-ups. Haven't been back since. This same senario is repeating itself at breaks all over the world. Edit; Hey JEFE, next time on the Eastside look me up, Cheers
Just went for a paddle (prone) and saw a couple gray whales towards shore. Closest being 100 feet away. This was near the mesa in Santa Barbara. Very invigorating.
I love climbing in all it's forms, and I really enjoy reading blogs like Evening Sends, No Way Down, The Stone Mind, etc. But when it comes to surfing, well, I just surf.
Most of the surfing blogs that I like aren't just about trad surfing they cover the ocean experience. Like my buddy Geampaolo"shttp://mauisurfreport.blogspot.com
I know that I am biased but I like my own ocean blog a lot as well http://mauioceansports.blogspot.com/
That is just a link to the home page and mission statement. If you browse the list of activities you will find that we cover trad surf in addition to
windsurf,kite,SUP,and much more.
Not trying to hijack this thread. Fantastic by the way. Trying to sell a Fish board and wondering if anyone has any websites that would work for me. The usual ones haven't worked, ie Craigslist, Ebay. Thanks. Now back to cragging and slashing.
Here's an amazing story highlighting some history on one of the more famous waves of modern times.
SHIP’S PERIL IN FIJIAN WATERS,1806 by Stephen Cline
In the Naval Library in London is a wing called Admiralty Records. This area contains nearly 300 years of ship’s logs and records of Admiralty proceedings. There is a vast section on courts-martial due to the fact that every time a ship was lost or taken such a proceeding was convened to determine whether the captain had done his utmost to save his ship, or if there had been some dereliction of duty. In the latter instance, a captain could face serious criminal charges. In such cases, all of the ship’s officers would be called before a panel of captains and admirals to testify as to the circumstances in question. One case, dated October 1807, contains among its many, many pages of testimony the following account given by a helms - man, a Mr. Lawrence, aboard the ship in question, HMS Ariel. Her captain (rank of Post Captain) was a G. Parker by name, who was being tried for the loss of his ship off the coast of Australia in a typhoon the previous year. Based on other testimony, it appears that Captain Parker acted admirably, saving almost his entire crew. He was acquitted of negligence and given another command. For our purposes here, though, it is Lawrence’s account that holds interest as a striking anecdote of seamanship and surfing lore (as well as 19th century, naval, colloquial speech). This particular story was told not about the actual wreck of the Ariel, but of a prior event as an example of the captain’s ship-handling skills. What follows is a verbatim transcript as recorded by the two court clerks present.
YOU HA’ HEARD, sirs, already from Lieutenant Furner of the Captain’s steadiness in the engagement with the French Frigate, Rendezvous, off Madagascar. So I’ll tell you of his seamanship, for I ha’ ne’er before nor since seen the like of it.
As you know, we was continuin, as it were, where Cook left off (he bein kilt and all) cruisin and chartin the isles of the South Pacific. Beautiful it were, sirs, I can tell you, but too it were dread dangerous with all uncharted reefs and shoals everywhere a body cast an eye. Why, a ship could fetch dry on coral in the middle of deep blue with not a bit of earth in view from the foretop. And nighttime bein the worst of it, swingin in our hammocks listenin for the breakers over the sound of the bow wave and wind in the riggin. Nervous work to reel off the leagues and be cautiouslike too.
So, we was layin for the Fijis, runnin on Cook’s charts of Vatoa one dark dawn, me at the wheel, a fair breeze near abeam to larboard1 or maybe to forward a few points, fillin fore and main courses, tops’sls and stays’ls. We was rail down some, six or seven knots I recollect at the last throw of the log, with a smooth surface and a good-sized, well-spaced swell runnin with us.
The Captain came on deck, it bein still dark as I said, as often he did in them waters, and he says, “I thought I heard breakers, Mister Lawrence. Is there land about?”
“None I know of, sir,” I told him, though never did I know a man who could so feel the loom of land below the horizon. He called up to the lookout in the fore crosstree who said he saw no sign. So we held course with nary a cinch needed to trim the sails for the next two turns of the glass. Captain musta felt somethin though for he come up on deck again half through the watch and shortened sail some, not much, a pull or two.
Then, by God, I did hear it, and the Captain too at the same time. Almost at the same minute the sky lightened, suddenlike as it does in the tropics, and the lookout he sings out. No doubtin but it were breakers, almost hidden by the sounds I mentioned before, but then suddenly very loud, and as steady as the drummers of the Coldstream Guards, and close, very close. I don’t wince at tellin you sirs, of a sudden I thought we’d founder on coral the way we feared. But Captain he says to me very cool, “Steady as she goes, Mister Lawrence,” and he quickly looks at his spread of canvas, the quarter of the wind, then dashes up the lee side waist riggin, wraps in arms and legs and claps his glass along the line of the reef. Down he scampers, me thinkin there ain’t time for such comins and goins. As it stood, were we to try to come about there was a good chance the yards wouldn’t come round and we’d get caught in stays and broach to in the swell, or else drift on. Were we to try and jibe to leeward we’d likely drive right onto the reef, for it was coming clear that it were rounding off to starboard. Only other thing I could think of was to throw anchor and try to stop headway, and then warp on cables back to sea using the cutter and the launch. None very likely prospects.
But Captain, calm as May on Thames, says, “Steady on, Lawrence, but mark my commands exactly.” “Aye,” says I, startin to break sweat. “All hands aloft, Mister Manson,” he says to the master, who has the bosun, Mister Benson pipe the men up. Such a flurry of feet and hands you never saw, and not a word, sirs. No, every soul down to cabin boy knew we was in a pinch and we’d either drive hard aground or the Captain would sail us safe. It were a disciplined set o men in the riggin, set to do their duty or die tryin. So, when Captain tells Mister Manson to prepare to strike all sails, the master looks at him for half a second like he’d gone stark mad, for as you know better than me, sirs, to strike sail would be as much as to let all help from the wind go by bare poles. But Manson says nothin but “Aye,” and sets me men in a flash ready to swing axes.
By now we can see the backs of the breakers splash high with white water, and the swells are racing up behind us lifting the stern and heaving us forward several knots faster before passing under us. The midshipmen were callin out soundings as fast as they could count knots on the line, the Ariel drawin nigh on two fathom, and me waiting to hear the scrape of her copper covered bottom. Well, all this was happenin faster than I can tell it.
Then the Captain says to me again somewhat frabbit2 “Steady on, Lawrence,” and looks behind us at the comin swells. I dared not look, but I heard him remark, “Ah, the master wave. Good.” Then to me he says, “Steady, steady. Mark my command exact, Mister Lawrence.” “Aye sir,” I says with a shivered voice.
Suddenly a brute wave comes under us and lifts us. It pushes us with it, fast, like a surf dingy runnin up a beach. White water near come over the bowsprit as we’re lifted stern high. Then Captain calls loud, “Hard to windward, 90 degrees,” and I spin the wheel for my life. The ship come right around and the Captain yells, “Strike sail!” Which Mister Manson repeats, but no one needs to hear a second time, for all of us know in an instant that we are coming up into the wind head on and the sails will catch abaft and stop us dead in the water broached with a breaker right abeam. Sails and sheets fly to the wind, and by the time as we come full to larboard the poles are bare.
Meanwhile I’m holdin the spokes as I said for dear life. The Captain steps beside me and latches on too, sayin, “Hold steady’ By God, we’ve got her riding!” The ship had gone right down the face of the wave, turned near 90 degrees to larboard, and now we were speedin across the face parallel, don’t you see. A wondrous sight, sirs, God’s truth! I thought for a moment that the masts would be rolled by the board in the turn, but they held, though they pitched fierce with men hangin on like rats on a hawser.
Well sirs, we raced across that wave at a hull speed that would ha’ set her ship architect’s jaw agape, me an Captain steerin for the deep water channel, while that wave broke and spit right behind us. I damn well...excuse my language, sirs, but it nearly caught us. I swear the curl came for an instant right over the poop where we was standin and I ducked a little. But Captain he stood straight, starin at the safe shoulder of the wave like it were Christ himself out there callin his name.
And the Lord must love ’im, for soon enough we come skitterin out onto the gentle slope, hearts in our mouths, and he calls out, “Hard to larboard, set jibs then spanker!” And we come turning out over the top of that wave, the wind now instead of bein dead on ahead is off our starboard bow. The jibs open, bringing her further around and we gradually slow to a two-knot starboard tack in deep water, as pretty as kiss my hand. It were a sight, I say sirs, a sight.
The Captain steps away from the wheel and says to Manson and me, “Steer us further into the channel and hove to off that island ahead.” The men aloft suddenly lets out a cheer you coulda heard clear to Portsmouth.
A few minutes later, we was at anchor, knotting and splicing the cup up lines, nary a scratch on Ariel’s bottom. The Captain says to me, and I’ll never forget it, “Fine helmsman- ship, Lawrence, fine.” Tickled I was, though still shook I must say, for, forgettin my place, I asked, “How did you know to do such a thing, sir?” He smiled and said, “I was Lieutenant with Cook in ’79 in the Sandwich Isles, and I saw the natives ride the waves on planks just so.”
Then he walked to the taffrail and watched the shore- line of the beautiful, little island we’d fetched up to. Some natives were coming out in dugouts. They seemed mighty enthusiastic too, seein us surf our ship round that reef. Generous folk they were too, bringing out coconuts and the like. which we ate as if we was clemmed3. They called their pretty little isle Tava Ruah. Aye sirs, Captain Parker can handle a ship.
1—larboard:
left side of ship facing forward, opposite starboard, modern usage: port 2—frabbit: Lancaslcrshire dialect, irritated, short of palienee 3—clemmed: Lancastershire dialect, starving
Bah! 90 foot waves are everywhere now because
of climate change. This morning i caught one to work.
And our receptionist has a 55 footer in an aquarium.
If you believe that Stephen Cline story of square-rigged surfing from 1806, let me tell you about the time Kelly and I were the only ones out at Teahupoo. A massive set wave comes and I say to Kelly, "Go!", but he says, "No, it's yours!"...
^ Sounds like a couple of kite surfers. They really seem to share the wind and their ratio of paddling and sitting to riding is the lowest in the world.
Yes. Important to cross-train. That way you don't get bored. Other adventure sports can be included: BC skiing, mtn. biking, even paragliding to name a few.
Hey both can be done is Israel. Very cool. I'd like to go . . .
Wow, I'm about to head to Yosemite for a week and this thread is messing with that idea! Especially that last photo Pyro! I could be there damnit!!! I could just go to Jalama (no idea where you photo is) for a week and have a blast, get some fishing in, walk peacefully for miles.................. what to do?!?!?!?!?!?
I am pretty sure many kyakers do that(i'm not a kyaker, but it looks fun).
I have also seen surfers(in surf magazine pics)surfing similar river 'waves' on surfboards. One was in Alaska, and one time it was in the Southern Hemisphere somewhere, perhaps Indo(& fairly recently).
"This is the best duck dive shot I've ever taken (and I've taken a few!).
It was her first duck dive and her hair is still dry.
Taken at Uluwalu on Sept 08."GP
What's this? The women climbers back then weren't hot? Have you ever looked at Liz Robbins? You're telling me Lynn Hill isn't pretty?
On what planet? All I can think of is that girl named Lauren who died climbing in the Black Canyon in 1978. She was intensely beautiful. She died a climber, she died because she liked to climb. How rude of you to sweepingly remark that there were no hotties in climbing.There were.
If we took the same woman and showed her to you first in climbing clothes, or what passed for them back then, and showed you the same woman in a bikini, you, being a man, are going to find the woman in the bikini more attractive. That is just the way you are wired.
In fact, this proves, once again, that men are ruled by their hormones, and cannot actually see past the end of their dicks.
All the climber and outdoor chicks I ever met in the 70s, 80s and 90s were all psycho. I don't care how beautiful a chick may be, I ain't puttin' up with any more psycho nut cases.
Right to left: George Downing, Fred Hemmings,Felipe Pomar,
Paul Strauch, Mike Doyle, Mickey Munoz, Ken Adler, Nat Young,
and Carlos Rey an offical of the 1965 contest.
EDIT: What's Mike Doyle so intent on? Somebody drop a wallet?
Climbing satisfies my inner urge for problem solving, comraderie, risk and reward, physical and mental challenge, and being oudoors in beautiful places.
A lifelong passion.
Surfing is just plain fun!
Nah, it's much more than that.
Whatever the f*#k it is I'm jonesing!
South swell and warm water, my favorite points, driving 80 on the salt flats, hoping the solar panels make it, waiting for the AFTERNOON offshores(!!!???), firing up the bapper for a surf check, smell of sunscreen, getting a ride back up the point on a dune buggy while chugging a beer, getting barrelled, or riding the tip loaded , burning your bro and doing over/unders, trimming or cutting the fins loose, limes, minus tides, nipple rash, faceplants, hunger, gouging, fading, pushing a local kid in, floating , making the section, wondering how long the ride actually was- my hair is dry, fresh corn tortillas, saying "GO!", falling asleep early and krispy, underground stinky stashes, laughing, roaches under the umbrella, bottom turns!!!, sunsets, hoots and kooks, not giving a shît, hauling ass, courderoy, pearling borrowed 10 footers, swimming, connectors, longboarder chick butts, rock hard sandbanks, giving one away, easy takeoffs, melting wax, smile aches, tired legs, no cord, being the deepest, wanting to never go home, checkpoints, slow semis, dicey passes, wanting to go back.
Wanting to go back.
Wanting to go back.
I guess I'll order a new pair of moccasyms and head up the mountain.
This thread rocks! Any one just finding it should start at the beginning. There's some excellent material up thread.
I think we have done a stellar job of dodging the trolls so far.
Whatever the f*#k it is I'm jonesing!
You and me both Cuz!
After a long and intense winter here on the north shore the summer doldrums have set in. Lately you can't find a wave of any significance on any side of this island other than maybe on the east side and that's wind swell and a very long drive for the day. Fortunately I have landed some good work right here on the beach so I can ride my bike the block and a half to and from work and keep my mind occupied till the south swells start kicking in and hopefully that will be soon.
It's very windy on the ocean at the present and I can walk to the beach and wind surf after work any day that I want, but with out waves it is somewhat uninspiring.
BTW: drljefe, Those were some great words as usual!
I will say this...
The jones for surfing is definitely worse than the jones for climbing.
That little stream of consciousness i just spewed is akin to a junkie's writhing cold sweats, knowing he doesn't have the money for the next fix to get well.
Does anyone have any pics of bodysurfing? I was a swimmer in high school and college and never felt comfortable on a board. I liked being in the water. Though looking at that earlier video of a pipeline bodysurfing contest made me remember that slamming the bottom of a wave was part of why my back is so messed up.. haha. I doubt that I could get it to bend that far anymore. Still love the water though.
Thanks for those photos. My favorite surfing photos are ones with both land and sea in the frame. E.g. o-man's and one of drljefe's middle ones (Trestles?). Oh and surfing photos of difficult boulder problems in the desert are cool, too.
When will the next round/heat be? I had it on at 7:30 their time(12:30 our time)and nothing was going on. Just said surf was 3-4 feet, a bit of a drop from the day before. Some great waves there at Cloud Break. A nice section that they are all getting barraled in. Looks like that lip is coming down hard and wacking a few of the guys. Exciting wave. So is it going to happen tomorrow? Or when the surf picks up?
I surfed two great sessions over on the west side of Maui yesterday.Sesh one started out a bit crowded but it thinned out after about an hour so the next hour and a half I took any wave that appealed to me. The right handers were really working well.
I started to get tired and paddled in rinsed off with the fresh water that I brought,put my board away and jut chilled out for a moment.
Then Trever and Mark showed up so I paddled back out with them and boy am I glad I did. I only got one wave in the second sesh but it was the best wave of the day.
The reports say that the surf is still up so I'm heading back over this morning and then watching the Volcom Fiji Pro in the afternoon.
BTW: It's supposed to get giant for the contest and we are hoping to get some of that swell in a few days.
The surf was even better yesterday. I got so many shoulder to head high waves that I was paddled out after three hours. There were just the right amount of surfers out and everyone got a bunch of waves without sharing. I gave so many waves away and still had my pick of the set waves.
I then bought some beer and went home and watched the Volcom Fiji Pro with my friend Mark.
It was a good day!
I surfed another three hour session yesterday in similar conditions although a bit smaller than the two previous days. I went home and watched the Volcom Pro contest from Fiji again.
After three days in a row I am about paddled out but the live video feed from "Lahaina Break Wall" shows more of the same for today.
What to do?
We have a significant south swell heading our way and it should arrive a.m. Tuesday and I have the day off.
I am thinking that I should rest and try to let my paddle muscles and sunburn recover. But I will probably surf again today but maybe not as long.
Today is the final day of the contest in Fiji. It starts out with Kelly Slater in the first heat so check it out. The the link is posted up thread.
So far this event has produced some of the best surfing that I have ever seen and is not to be missed. With the sheer volume of great waves and the talent I wont be surprised if this turns into a one hellova feature film!
Any talk about the 2012 Fiji Pro has to mention day 3 when the event was called off for being too "windy" for the best pro surfers in the world.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The last 2 minutes of this video is after they called off the contest.
Kelly thanks for posting up the video. I watched the event every day after surfing some great waves myself.
I missed the day at "Cloud Break" before they moved it to "Restaurants" when the judges and committee deemed it too big to compete. Many of my friends that did see it say it was the single best day of surfing that they ever saw. The best surfers in the world paddling into some of the biggest barrels imaginable!
As I mentioned up thread that swell is forcasted to arrive on our south and west shores tomorrow A.M. I'm really stoked and hoping that my favorite breaks will hold the size with out just closing out witch is often the case.
The spots that can hold a swell of that size get very busy.
One thing that differs, for me, with climbing and surfing...
When something heavy was going down in my life, I'd go surfing.
Call it avoidance, call it procrastination, call it healing.
It was all of the above at different times, and sometimes all together.
For instance...
I was working in a coffee shop in Dana Point and got a call from my Mom. I instantly felt a disturbance in the force. She didn't need to say it, I already knew. My long lost father had passed away. I had only seen him once since he left when I was ten.
My boss told me to split, so I did, and headed straight down to Trestles on my bike.
Uppers was grey and glassy and chest high waves were hitting the point at a nice angle.
Best of all, there was no one out(???!!! believe me here) and i had a freshly waxed up new board.
It was a very emotional session.
As I waited for waves I stared out at the horizon, knowing my father knew the area well and had sailed the channel countless times. I realized then that we shared a common love for the sea. He was part of me.
When waves would come I put my new board to the test. Winding up and punching. Gouging, pumping, smacking. I was surfing aggressively.
I let out so much anger that I hadn't expressed.
I proved to him I had become a man, a strong man, gotten good at something...without him, but hopefully I could make him proud.
I felt him there, I really did. And it was like the first conversation I had with him as an adult.
When I would kick out in the bay tears would be streaming down my cheeks.
I surfed my heart out. Literally.
Tonight is a night I wish I could go down to the point, alone, and surf my heart out.
The desert is hot, and even if it wasn't, a boulder circuit just wouldn't cut it.
Sitting on top of the boulder and watching the sunset would be nice- introspective and healing. Not climbing, though.
Something's just not the same as salt water therapy.
Edit: sorry to get all heavy or be a downer. Surfing and climbing are supposed to be FUN.
THEY ARE FUN!!!
(and hopefully it'll be offshore, and crackin', and the tide'll be right, and there'll be no one out, and your back will feel good, and your board'll be workin good-- for all you fakkas lucky enough to be close to the ocean.)
lately because school is out the Coast has been all zoo'd out! water feels good. did go climbing atPoint Dume the other day!
bump for Ventura surf when it hits!
This one little boulder problem kept me stoked all last week, and kept my mind off heavy sh¡t.
Hell, even figuring out what to name it kept the chatter at bay.
It's a valid little bulge. A big move to a crimp then another pull to a pocket then the top.
After scrubbing lichen off a few holds, I put it down first try.
Sh#t, I've resorted to looking into buying a wrongboard. Whenever I have time and want to surf, there's no damn waves. Might have to go down that route to ensure I can get wet when its small. Worst part, they sell used for what a custom shortboard goes for new :-/
Dave , Do you mean like this beauty? Only I got mine a little longer ( I'm don't get to surf as much) It paddles real NICE!!! Also the quad is way positive on the bottom turn - more than a twin IMO. Yes, a true rocket ship!!!! I don't own a "wrongboard"
I have a 5'9 plank of a fish, but I'm talking for the 1-2' on-the-sets days; more waves = more fun and a log might be in my future. A fish is still diminishing returns on those days for me - too much work for what you get back. A noserider seems eminent with summer here.
and I'm usually so anti-logging, you could call me a tree-hugger.
When I moved to Hawaii about 12 years ago I had never ridden a long board before and never even considered it but as soon as I did my whole experience changed dramatically for the better. I am afraid my short board days are over and there might just be an 8'6" + or- SUP in my future due to the growing numbers of them at most of the breaks that I frequent and especially my local back yard wave Noriega's where often in the winter I will be the only lay down paddler in a group of more than a dozen. I have not crossed over yet ,but, the thought is in the back of my mind a lot.
Gotta have a longboard around- for the get wet, at least.
Tiny point waves? Priceless.
That's about it though, for me at least.
One "accidental" mysto longboard session at the beachbreak...
Didn't check it, knew it was glassy and small, really small, and just wanted the empty evening rinse off.
It ended up being the super inconsistent fake out, for those who checked it.
This wave usually doesn't allow you in early no matter what kind of board. It was different this time.
To be able to set up so easily for the tube was just so f*#king fun. Effortless. Fade off the bottom, set rail, zing! !!
Backlit green racers.
The feeling of having so much rail on the face, no pumping, just picking a line, was unreal.
The spot. Different day.
F*#kin a I miss it right now.
Surgical strike coming soon. Necessary.
EDIT:
HEY, I must have posted the link before, can't post it now, but...
Youtube "Aloha Travis"
Do me the honor of watching it, and tell me what you think.
There's some good surfing in there.
I miss my bro, too, right now.
(!!!/
Here's a "mysto" longboard session. We were in Nor-Cal and had checked the south jetty on Humbolt bay. It was pretty small so we headed to Centerville beach to check the beach break. I figued it would be small also so I just took a longboard ( I used to own a few). We show up at centerville and it's pumping. Oh well, I go for it on the longboard. It's overhead and tubing , I get a few unreal barrells as well as get pitched over the falls on several. (servere beatings!!) My last wave I went for a left an grabbed the rail. I was locked in but knew I was'nt comming out . I dove off into the barrell and as I'm flying I can see my board fade under the lip and get detonated into oblivion. That was the last longboard I owned. RIP :)
We've settled into a weak summer pattern around here and forecast be damned I was still excited for a solo surf day afield on Monday. The swell wasn't promising at home or on the drive but enough was obscured by fog to allow me to suspend reason, hope for the best and keep driving to a favorite spot. 1:15 from my front door.
Fickle conditions and the challenge of predicting/chasing surf even on a local level can be so interesting and frustrating at the same time. Maybe more like ice than rock in reading ice conditions, getting to know a particular flow over time...enjoying the movement and focus in that place regardless of the conditions and our expectations.
We had about a week of quality south swell a week back that I mentioned up thread. The last day of that run was just amazing in that I got three hours of near glass,uncrowded, shoulder to head high surf on the west side.
Then I drove back home to the north shore and wave sailed some (out of season) logo to near mast high NW with a bit of east wind swell mixed in with a few of my regular gang till nearly dark.
I had to go back to work for nine days but scored several nice wave sailing sessions here at Kuau after work.
We have a new south swell that has been going off for the past couple of days and is forecast to drop some in size and that might be good since my favorite west side break starts to close out when it gets much over solid head. The swell is predicted to hold for a while longer and I have some days off so I'm hitting the road as soon as I get a couple of domestic issues out of the way.
Since this is both a surfing and Climbing thread I thought I would share a climbing story and then go get some more of those delightful waves over on the west side. The past two days the surfing over there has been brilliant!
Maurice Reed and I were on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle back in the spring of 84 when he pointed out a steep face on a rock formation over toward Sunshine Wall. The face had three crack systems on it and one of them went right up the middle.
Maurice said to me, (in his thick southern drawl) “Ma’an, we gotta climb that thang!”
Several people that we contacted said they had been looking at it and thought it looked really cool, but, nobody that we could find, had actually tried it.
We went on a reconnaissance hike and scouted a route through the massive boulders at the base of the formation. We also scoped the face with binoculars. Along with a healthy bush that was growing out of the crack I noticed an old tattered rap sling about 1/3 way up the second pitch. Maurice said,”Ma’an, I sure hope that sling was left by some ole aid climber when he bailed off the thing?”
A few days later we returned with leather gloves, tree loppers, a saw, and a crow bar. With this equipment we chopped, cut, stomped and trundled our way to the base of the climb. We had to negotiate dense anti-personal bushes, downed trees, and several large and very loose boulders. With all the obstacles we encountered, it was obvious that no one had been in this gully in many years or, maybe ever.
Maurice and I drove back down to Foxton a week later. We parked in our usual spot. I stashed some beer in the river while Maurice sorted the climbing gear. We then shouldered our packs and walked down the road a ways before we crossed over the old barbed wire fence. We marched past the symmetrically cut Rose Granite slabs, steel cables and other equipment that was abandoned when the rock quarry operation shut down decades earlier. We then headed up the, steep, gravel hillside through stands of aspen, needle sharp yucca plants, blooming cactus and patches of kininnikinnick. When we took the occasional rest break we could hear the Platte River as it blended harmoniously with the wind rushing through the Ponderosa Pines and spreading their thick scent of butterscotch. In those days there were only game trails in the Cathedral Spires and we usually took a different route each time.
Once we were at the base of the climb, Maurice led the first pitch up to a large belay ledge. He made it look easy although it involved some of the hardest moves on the entire climb.
The belay ledge was littered with loose rocks. We trundled most of them before attempting the next pitch. (Ah, the sight, sounds, and smells of granite boulders gaining momentum on their way to the valley below!) My dog “Beau” was at the base and he just wouldn’t “STAY or SIT!” like I told him to. Beau was running excitedly all over the place. He thought we were playing some sort of game. Maurice said” Ma'an, he’ll get out of the way, believe me, he’ll get out of the way!” It’s luckily for Beau that he didn’t get clobbered by one of those non- guided projectiles!
Pitch two was my lead. It started off as a continuously difficult but well protected finger crack that lead up to a steep, poorly protected, lay back section. I had trouble committing to those moves with the marginal gear that I had in. I could see the sequence that I needed to make but my strength was draining fast.
I was really getting pumped and there was no natural rest to be found. After several tries I was completely exhausted so I down climbed to my last good gear placement. Maurice then lowered me back to the belay ledge.
Maurice was now chomping at the bit to give this pitch a go. We quickly switched the belay over and I handed him the rack. He charged up to my high point and got really pumped trying to commit to those poorly protected moves.
I could tell Maurice was frustrated as he down climbed to the last piece of gear. Reluctantly, he clipped in and tied off and yelled,”Ma’an , send me the pins and a hammer”. Although he was tied off he refused to hang on the protection any more than he had to while we negotiated the gear transfer. Maurice climbed back up to our high point and put in two solid pitons without hanging. Getting those pins in proved to be very tiring. It would have compromised his ethics to hang on the gear while he regenerated, so, he had me lower him all the way down to the belay ledge
With the rest I got while belaying, and the security of the pitons Maurice placed, I gained the strength and confidence I needed to pull through those steep, committing layback moves. This put me at the start of the elegant and slightly overhanging hand sized crack in the head wall.
With the layback section out of the way all seemed straight forward. That is, until I encountered a completely detached spike that can only be described as the tip of a miniature pinnacle. There was no way around this gnarly feature. The spike actually moved when I touched it. I didn’t dare put any outward force on it!
I had some decent gear right below my feet but nothing any higher. I had a solid foot jam for a stance. I yelled down to Maurice,” Dude, move the belay as far over to the right as possible and, Watch Out! OK?”
His response was “ Ma’an, I am as far over as I can get! And YOU better watch out your own self!”
With no other holds to use I mantled, and stood up ever so carefully on the tip of that detached spike! I was trembling after I completed those delicate moves! Fortunately, there was a great nut placement just as I stood up and put all my weight on the point of the spike. I moved up quickly and got some good hand and foot jams. I then leaned out from the rock and looked down at Maurice and said “Dude that was Dicey!” I can’t imagine what it would have been like if that teetering block had come off while I was attempting that sketchy mantle move!
Next was what turned out to be some of my all time favorite moves in the Platte. The elegant and overhanging headwall proved to be well protected, strenuous, thin hand jamming all the way up to a semi-hanging belay stance!
While seconding the pitch Maurice jettisoned that dangerous block. This created a great rest stance before the steep and continuous crack climbing at the end of the pitch.
As we set up the rappel anchors, I said to Maurice,” Dude, what do you want to name it?” He thought for a second and said “Well, Ma’an, we’re both from Mississippi so let’s call it Mississippi Half Step!”
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the top of the Half Step we noticed a steep rippling face on the formation across the gully toward Cynical Pinnacle. Maurice said,” Ma’an we gotta climb that!”
Maurice and I had been putting up some steep friction climbs over on Snake buttress in traditional, ground up, style.
This face was long, blank, and real steep. It had a number of sloping features that looked as though they might be stances that we could drill bolts from.
Once again the approach was blocked by large loose boulders and the ever present thorn bushes(A.P.B.s) so again we had our work cut out for us, just getting to the base of the climb.
For this climb we were armed with only a hammer, a hand drill, and 1.5”x1/4” expansion bolts.
It was our usual style on these type climbs to swap the lead after each bolt placement.
The climb was going just as we thought it would .We would delicately climb away from the safety of our last bolt placement making steep friction moves that were close to the point of repose. Each section ended with a thin and technical, mantle move. Once we made the mantle and gained our vertical balance, (using only the friction of the rubber of our (EB) climbing shoes against the granite), on one of those less steep bumps. We would then pull out the hand drill and hammer and start the long tedious process of drilling a hole in the granite face. We would then pound in the expansion bolt from the sloping stance.
After the third bolt, I climbed up a steep section of micro- flakes that ended in a mantle move at a difficulty of about 5.11. I drilled and hammered in bolt from the steep stance and then had Maurice lower me back to the base.
On Maurice’s try, a critical flake disintegrated while he was pulling through on it. We were so bummed because without that flake, our climb became a whole lot harder! We pulled the rope through our top bolt and tried to lead the section again and again. We each took several substantial pendulum falls and our finger tips were starting to bleed so we gave up it up and called it a day.
We swiftly skied the loose gravel mountain side down to the valley where we had some of our favorite beverage stashed in the icy river. We sat on the tail gate and enjoyed some much needed refreshment, and reflected on the day’s efforts. We absorbed the view of the Cathedral Spires as last rays of sun hit Cynical Pinnacle along with the sounds of the raging Platte River and the comradely of two best friends! We were well into our beverages and completely blissed out when were approached by a climber that appeared out of nowhere. He seemed friendly enough and looked thirsty. Maurice said Ma’an, you want a beer?” He accepted the offer so we shared the tail gate and our cold beer with him as we name dropped and swapped climbing stories. The conversation eventually turned to bolting. The guy said that he had been up at The Dome and he had been chopping the bolts on a route that had been placed on rappel. He stated that he intended to chop all the bolts in the Platte that had been placed on rappel! When Maurice heard this fellows bold statement he looked the guy in the eye and said, “Ma’an, I don’t Rap bolt, BUT, if I did, and you were to chop ANY of MY bolts, and I found out about it, I’d find out where you lived and slash your tires!” And, I personally believe, he meant it!
Maurice moved away soon after that first attempt and our climb was unfinished business. I vowed to wait until Maurice returned but I became impatient.
I enlisted the help of Noel Childs to work on the route with me. I was able to climb that section on my next try.
With the crux section climbed Noel was stoked to finish the pitch. He was bummed when I stated that I wanted to wait a couple of months until Maurice returned to Colorado to finish the pitch that we started. Noel was not pleased but he agreed reluctantly.
When Maurice did return we finished the first pitch in one push. We named the climb Mr. Mantle since there were so many wild mantle moves on that pitch.
The second pitch was steep but relatively moderate hand and fist crack that the late Catherine Freer and I did on a beautiful spring day not long before her tragic accident.
Well the wonderful south swell has dropped of to near nothing and now wave sailing in my back yard is the only show in town.
I enjoyed a delightful solo sesh two days ago.
Yesterday my neighbor Tom and I rode some real gems until near dark.
I came in first and went home and put some beer in a cooler and went back to the beach and enjoyed a spectacular Maui sunset sitting on the log, talking story, and having an Ice clod PBR with Tom.
truth be told, i love the solitude that paddling out at sunrise brings, and the smell of sticky bumps in the morning. something about dolphins peeking up to say hi, and pelicans dive bombing the nearby school of fish.
also, it's much more acceptable to pee while surfing than climbing. that's surely a quick way to go "off belay".
Kazuma surfboards Hawaii
Tip#3 Great surfing revolves around a good bottom turn. Plain and simple, if you have a solid bottom turn, surfing becomes easy. A good bottom turn will take you from the bottom of the wave to the top in one continuous arc and when done correctly, you will accelerate from start to finish of the turn. This acceleration creates explosive surfing and will allow you to link together all your moves with speed and flow. Haven’t you ever wondered how these 100 lb groms can be so explosive and powerful? They all most certainly have a good bottom turn. Key points: 1) start your bottom turn early, don’t go too far down into the flat of the wave. Going down into the flat will take you out of the curve of the wave and you won’t be able to make it all the way back to the lip in one continuous arc. 2) Your weight has to be balanced between your feet, if anything a Little front foot weighted. 3) bend your knees and get LOW while putting weight on your toes.(or heel) This will get your board on it’s rail which will give you that nice long arc. 4) Don’t rush, a good bottom turn takes time. Let it flow and you will accelerate through the turn. 5) Don’t push too hard. If you are slowing down, you are probably pushing too hard. Soften up and you will gain speed and power. http://www.criticalbench.com/exercises/dumbbell-squat.htm Dumbbell squats are the best exercise to get your bottom turn stance dialed in. This is the correct position to be in during your bottom turn. I do these every other day to make that position feel natural and it helps keep me properly weighted and balanced over my board. Go out and try this and remember, don’t rush the bottom turn.
Once again you can't buy a decent wave on any side of this island.
Yesterday I drove my truck the 4.5 miles down the coast to Kanaha Beach Park and left it there with a cooler with refreshments in it.
I jumped on my cruiser bike and bucked the stiff 19-25 mph head wind back to my place in Kuau.
I then grabbed my 4.4m sail and 78ltr wave board and walked to my local launch and rigged.
I sailed solo down the coast taking my time taking in the dynamic view while dodging sea turtles and spooking flying fish while riding clean open ocean wind swell all the way down to Kanaha.
It was cool to be out on the ocean with just my rig and board shorts and nothing else.
It was fun having a beer and great conversation with my pals that were there before I loaded my kit and headed back home.
Today looks much the same so there's a good chance that i might just do another coast run today.
I'm STOKED by Glen James forecast for the next few days!
"There should be a new southwest swell during the day Monday…followed by a larger south-southwest swell Tuesday, both lasting for several days. This second SSW swell may prompt a high surf advisory into Thursday."
I'm not sure but I think that I am probably not working through this period.
The west side has delivered the goods for the past three days!
On the first day of this swell it was real big closing out when I arrived. As the tide filled in a bit conditions got better. I surfed a full three and a half session with mostly friends in the water.
I got some monumental rides that day. A couple of the right hander’s are in competition for the single best wave rides of the season.
On the second day I scored another great session of what turned out to be brilliant over head surf.
The wind was messing the texture up and it really looked like junk from the road but the rides we were getting were excellent! The crappy appearance was all it took to keep the crowds away.
It seems like the second day of a swell rarely goes as well as the first. I typically paddle myself out the first day and so I am paddling with considerably less power. More than that my timing was off that day and I blew a number of steep take offs. All In all, It was a good day of surfing with good people and plenty of waves.
The forecast was favorable for the swell to hold for yet another good day and intended to get a relatively early start and have a long perhaps double dip session.
My plans to go surf early morning were interrupted by a desperate phone call from the wind surf school that I am affiliated with. They had over booked a lesson and the instructor that was scheduled that day was wigging out and he was about to blow a gasket.
I told Karen (WSM’s business manager) to call R.C. (the instructor) and tell him, ”The cavalry was on the way!”
Things were a bit hectic at the beach but I calmed R.C. down enough to get through the two and a half hour seven person (beginner 101) lesson with satisfactory results.( All the while R.C. was still really upset.)
I got away from that bad energy situation as fast as I could and drove straight to the west side.
When I arrived at Woody’s there were only seven people out and it was consistent, glassy, shoulder to head high waves.
As I was about to paddle out two of my buddies were coming in and they were really stoked about their session.
Now there were only five other people and myself. I chose to surf with three Hawaiians two guys and a very attractive young woman named Sierra. We all had a great time trading waves and talking story.
It wasn’t long before the two dudes went in and then it was Sierra, me and two stand up guys. The stand up guys were killing it on the right hand inside reform. They were not in our lineup zone at all. It wasn’t long before the SUPer’s split.
That left Sierra and me with all those nice waves. It was delightful swapping stories and surfing with her. Often a set would come when one of us was in the middle of a story and we would both take off on the same peak one going right and one going left. When we paddled back out we would pick up the conversation where we left off.
This amazing soul surfing session went on until nearly sunset.
On my way home I it was firing at a fast little break that rarely goes off. The light was good so I stopped and shot a couple of photos.
o-man that sign's not right, it forgets -- most important talk story time.
I worked with a group of mechanics from Hawaii in the seventies. I don't remember getting anything done in the shop, but I did ship a lot of parts to Hawaii. It seemed like each part took three phone calls, 1 to ask if we had something they needed 2 talk story even though I told them I would call asap 3 me calling them with part in hand or not & talk story they called & told me earlier.
Man they would get pissed about being told they couldn't sleep on the beach on the mainland. Couple times a week those stories were told over & over all day. Off the phone from one story in to the shop to rehear this mornings story. What they ate for snacks would be three squares & a snack for me. Man those guys were a lot of fun.
Good story FRUMY! It does take longer around here to get things done because folks really like to talk a lot. I sometimes come across as a bit rude when I'm trying to get things done in a timely fashion and people want to shoot the breeze.
I did another of those fun down wind coast runs yesterday and may just do another one today. I rode some delicious clean open ocean wind swells that just put a big smile on my face.
Here's a photo of my buddy Giampaolo on his last session in Indo this season.
BTW: check out today's action at the Billabong Pro At J-Bay http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay12/videos-view-gb/day-1-highlights-part-1http://[/url]
This is some sick surfing click on videos for today recap action and follow tomorrows action live in the morning.
I have seen endless amount of Teahupo’o video and this is by far the best. And so important that it was slowed down so far. Shot with ultra high speed camera equipment. Huge improvement. What a day that was; so glassy. The nitty-gritty problem of actually staying on the wave is really clear, over and over again. It just gets TOO hollow often and there is this terrible strategy of riding the power but keeping just a tiny bit ahead of it but not too far ahead, out in the flats and dying. Amazing and thanks!
While I was on the dawnie program off and on, I was always partial to the evening session.
Lots of greedy surfers for both timeslots.
I just love the backlit jade green, easy on the eyes when riding, rinse away the day aspect of the evening.
Same goes for bouldering. Can't really even imagine bouldering in the morning.
Of course, some of my most memorable sessions have been in the morning...
Often times better conditions, but that damn glare...
More barrels in the morning, able to laugh your way through a sh¡tty day at work, and just a plain killer way to start the day. ..
Fvck. I dunno...
Come to think of it, when i was on the "State Surf Team", the midday sesh was always good and uncrowded.
You know what?
It's all good.
I feel lucky just to be a surfer and a climber.
Whenevers clever.
Social Climber, thanks for posting that list from The Surfers' Journal. Now that I have been kitesurfing more, it is redefining what I enjoy doing in the water. I hope you enjoy this video I recently made of kitesurfing in Mexico. I mounted a video camera on my kite, for a really nice perspective.
I think the rhythms of surfing are a lot more like those of bouldering than are those of climbing. I mean, how often do you talk about having a great climbing session?
Thanks guido I'm stoked that you liked my day on the Oregon Coast story.
Welcome Levitter you've always been a hero of mine! I really dug your video!
pyro, I'm glad you enjoyed the wave sailing with Kauli piece. He really rips waves on a wind surfer and you should see him surf!
A PHOTO"S STORY
by Gerry Lopez
The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by. Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over. The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided. If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.
Sorry for such late posts on this forum. Generally I don't spend a lot of time on this stuff, but I have completely enjoyed reading through this thread. Shoots, I hope we have a good winter coming up. The rock is always there, but the surf....
Would have been a good winter to be on the Gold Coast!
I meant what I wrote about sessions literally - as in, I've often said, "What a great session!" when I got out of the water, or when I got done bouldering, but I've never said that when I got done climbing. Which is not to say that I appreciate climbing any less than I appreciate surfing or bouldering. Rather, it's to say that I rarely climb for less than half a day, so the term "session" has never come to mind in the context of describing a climbing outing, I guess.
Which was my original point - the rhythms of surfing are more like those of bouldering than those of climbing.
IF SWELL
SURF
IF SNOW AND WIND GOOD
SPEEDRIDE
IF SNOW WIND BAD
SKI
IF NO SNOW WIND GOOD
SPEEDFLY
OR
HANG GLIDE
OR
PARAGLIDE
IF ABOVE
AND LAZY
FLY AIRPLANE
IF WIND EFFED
AND NO SWELL
AND NO SNOW
AND SUNNY
THEN CLIMB
During the filming of 'Big Wednesday,' both John Milius and Jan Michael Vincent did quite a bit of surfing on location in El Salvadore, at Coho Point and at Sunset Beach. By the end of the filming, they were in probably the best surfing shape of their lives. In this picture, we are standing on the beach at Sunset and I'm guess I'm pointing out some of the intricacies of this complex spot. This was before surf leashes so the most important thing would be as much information as possible about how to swim in after losing a surfboard in the line-up and not losing it completely in the rip currents in the channel afterwards. By the expressions on their faces, I must have been making an impression because they sure look like they're paying complete attention..... Gerry Lopez
I always wear a leash but I do agree that they can be a crutch and they can be a real hazard in hectic lineups and big waves.
The closest I ever came to drowning was back in the early 70's at cape Hatteras when my leash got wrapped around an imbedded log and I couldn't get it free. The sets were just pummeling me and I was soo panicked! Ii don't know how but I broke the leash and swam in. I sat on the beach for quite a while with my head in my hands physically and emotionally exhausted!
IMO: This would be way more interesting to watch than most of the swimming events in the Olympics.
I also feel that indoor climbing would be way better that some of the Olympic events like dance for instance or even some of the prancing equestrian stuff.
it's surprising to me that a very small percentage of these fatalities have occurred along the california coast and an even smaller percentage in the red triangle. that gives me some relief. but now you have to ask, how many non-fatal attacks are there along the california coast and within the red triangle. couldn't find stats on that.
still, that won't stop me from going out there. just like bears will not stop me from being in the backcountry.
As I stated up thread we haven’t had much surf of any kind since that last south swell event over a week ago. So I have been loading my bike in the back of my truck and driving down the coast to Kanaha Beach Park and leaving it there with a cooler in it.
I then jump on my cruiser bike and buck the stiff head wind 4.5 miles back to my place at the beach in Kuau.
I grab my sail and wave board and walk to my local launch and rig up and sail solo down the coast taking my time enjoying the dynamic view while dodging sea turtles, spooking flying fish, and riding clean open ocean wind swell all the way down to Kanaha Beach Park.
It’s really cool to be out on the ocean with just my rig and board shorts and nothing else.
I have been doing this same routine for many days now. It’s an excellent way to have some fun, getting some exercise, beating the heat, and surviving summer’s doldrums while I wait for the next south swell and/ or my job to start back up.
Earlier this week I missed a golden opportunity to practice what I have been trying to project in Maui Ocean Sports Magazine.
After dropping off my truck and biking home I grabbed my windsurf kit and walked over to the launch.
For some reason or another (maybe it was that I was getting a later start than usual) I felt rushed and in a hurry as I was about to launch my sailboard from the cove that afternoon.
As I was rigging my sail and getting ready to launch on my downwind coast run there were two young kids paddling into the channel and there was a diver that was working the channel on his way back to the launch.
The young kids climbed the smooth and very slippery step stones and they immediately sat down right in the entry to the channel with their surf boards nearly blocking the rocky path. They were waiting for their parents to paddle in after their family downwind paddle.
At this point the diver was starting the process of removing his fins, mask and snorkel. He then needed to deflate and stow his marker buoy and coil the line. He also needed to secure his spear gun and the small octopus he had shot.
Getting out of the water with all your gear (whatever the activity) at our rocky beach is no easy chore and there is only one set of “flatter kine” stones to use.
After the diver gathered his stuff he climbed those slippery stones and set his gear down next to the kids and their surfboards and started the process of completing his equipment brake down right in the path to the launch. This completely blocked the entry to the channel.
At this point I have my sail rigged, I have my harness on, and my board and sail are attached.
I am waiting patiently for the diver to complete his tasks and move out of the way.
The Kuau launch a very small area and we often have a lot of activity; I mean a lot of activity, especially in the winter at the Kuau launch when there is wind and waves.
There is an understanding among the locals that frequent this beach. That is, never block the launch area and move all gear as far away as possible as soon as possible before stashing or de-rigging.
Did mention that I felt rushed to get (my downwind coast run) underway while I felt the wind was still favorable?
At this point a fellow carried his SUP board right around me, the two kids, their boards, and the diver with all his equipment. He gets in the water and starts the process of getting his show together.
All the while I am still waiting patiently for the diver to wrap his stuff up and the SUP’er is taking his time right in the spot where I need to launch.
At this point the little surfer girl decides to go for a leisurely swim in the cove.
By this time I had just had it! I decided it was time for me to just go! I had been more than patient with these people and I felt that my window of successfully making it to Kanaha Beach Park was shrinking exponentially.
I started walking around the diver that was now making a statement as to how slow he could go.
It was apparent to him when my sail touched him as I went around that I wanted through.
Now I had to deal with the standup guy who instead of moving out of the way after he was in the water, was hogging the whole mouth of the cove. This wouldn’t have been any issue if the wind was off shore but it was on shore so a beach start was possible and I intended to get one. Besides that I had never seen this guy at the beach in the 13 years that I have been sailing there. I am sure he is a very nice guy though.
I got my beach start and I was quickly on a plane and heading for the outside of the channel and I could see the little girl that was swimming in the channel.
It’s common to have a swimmer in the channel when launching and I have never had an issue with it. But this time I had a lot of power in my sail and I was getting very close to the little girl so I just dropped my rig and fell in. She was in no danger but I felt that I was too close for safety. She was unaware that I was there and when I splashed in the water it startled her. She said,” I am soo sorry!” I told her that it wasn’t her fault and that everything was OK.
As this was happening her parents were paddling up and they saw the whole thing.
As soon as I was positive that I was clear of the girl I water started and sailed away as fast as I could.
As I passed the parents who are friends of mine and great people, I saw that Josh and Amy had smiles on their faces and Josh said something that I couldn’t understand.
This whole scene that I just mentioned took some of the fun out of my coastal voyage.
I contemplated on how I could have changed the dynamics of that situation.
I should have just relaxed and waited on the beach a bit longer.
That’s all it would have taken.
All in all, the situation was one that each person involved could have been more respectful of the needs of the other.
I intend for this experience to be a lesson to me.
In order to have a positive personal experience one must develop a harmonious setting for that dynamic energy to manifest.
The next day I did the same thing. I dropped my truck off and biked home. I noticed that the wind was light at Kanaha but didn’t worry about it much because when I was launching at Kuau the wind was strong.
I made very good time up until I was about half way and that when I noticed that the wind was getting lighter. I didn’t think much of it and moved further out to sea so as to get into better conditions. This only put me further out from shore and the wind was still dying exponentially by the minute.
At this point I am outside “Spartan Reef” and there is only one place along the rocky coast line to come in and that’s “Sugar Cove”.
I know that if I blow a jibe and fall in that my chances of water starting are slim and none. If I fall in it is going to be a very long swim with my gear back to land and who knows with the currents where I might come in.
At this point my whole being goes into survival mode!
I’m over a quarter mile off shore. I’m sailing out of the straps and out of the harness as I set my course for Sugar Cove. I intend to make it and I do!
With that survival thing out of the way now I am presented with a new challenge. I am still two miles from my truck and I am barefoot and have only my board shorts on. There isn’t really any one to call and I don’t have a phone anyway.
I examine my options and make a decision to bundle my gear and go cross country carrying my rig. My friend Adam lives about half way so I set my course for Adams where I know I can borrow a bike. The first part of the trek was seriously cross country cutting through privet property. Several people saw me as I cut through their yards but no one said anything. I guess I looked strange enough barefoot, shirtless and carrying my board and rolled up sail. I walked the streets on blistering asphalt trying to use as much grass as my route allowed.
I finally made it to the bike path and then it wasn’t far to Adams property where I knew the back way in. I borrowed a pair of his rubber slippers and his mountain bike. I stashed my sailboard gear in his yard and I hit the bike path. I was at my truck at Kanaha Beach Park in about fifteen minutes.
I loaded Adam’s bike in my truck and returned it and picked up my stuff.
When I got home I had a few beers with my Hawaiian neighbor Casey and told him my story.
He said,” Olaf, you one crazy Bugga!”
When you look at waves and rocks they are what they are. When you put a person on a wave or you set a person on a rock you get a point of reference! Gods Glory is made known when we are enjoying it too! SO I say Yes they are both very complimentary pursuits. Complimentary Pursuits of how phenomenal Gods creations are!
We had a delightful little bump earlier this week and my buddy Trever and I caught some of it.
The sesh wasn't much to write about but we were the only two guys out and had fun with the shoulder high sets.
When we were paddling out this fairly large manta ray jumped about three feet in the air right between us and then several sea turtles came around right in the line up. It was very cool!
When you look at waves and rocks they are what they are. When you put a person on a wave or you set a person on a rock you get a point of reference! Gods Glory is made known when we are enjoying it too! SO I say Yes they are both very complimentary pursuits. Complimentary Pursuits of how phenomenal Gods creations are!
agreed! but imo it is easier to put a person on a rock than it is to put a person on a wave! especially a big wave
When we were paddling out this fairly large manta ray jumped about three feet in the air right between us and then several sea turtles came around right in the line up. It was very cool!
Kazuma surfboards Hawaii
I use prone downwind paddling to train for winter surf and this is the only exercise that I have found to directly improve my surfing skills. Surfing Sprecks, Pier 1, Waimea, or Jaws takes a special set of skills that can't be learned any other way than either riding big waves and/or training with prone downwind paddling. Spots like Jaws have wave speeds that far exceed any surfboard made and are uncatchable unless you know how to build momentum by using small chops to build speed. Jaws has this beautiful side chop that is like getting a turbo boost and if you know how to use it, you can catch waves that are normally not possible to catch. Prone paddleboarding is all about linking these small chops together and boosting your speed to get into the rolling swells, 100 yard rides are possible in the open ocean. For me, prone downwind paddleboarding trains my muscles to have much more powerful "bursts" of energy needed to get into huge waves. Prone paddleboarding also builds my endurance and trains my muscles to work at max output for hours at a time but the most important benefit is that it gives me training on a huge board that is equally as difficult to balance on as my big wave guns. Balance, timing and control is essential to be a big wave surfer.
O-man, hey, I don't understand the downwind prone paddling training as you explained it. Prone is lying on the front, right? But paddleboarding is done standing up, isn't it? Am I getting the terms confused? I'm trying to figure out the training you're talking about.
Thanks for making this a worthy thread.
O-man, hey, I don't understand the downwind prone paddling training as you explained it.
sempervirens,downwind prone paddling training is not to be confused with SUP and is a discipline used by traditional big wave lay down paddle in surfers to build the strength and glide techniques necessary to catch big fast moving waves by using bumps and steep open ocean wind swells.
It is also a sport unique to it's self and has boards designed to be extremely fast and have super gliding abilities.
6' shark buzzed some surfers two days ago across the street. Still going to go for a paddle (prone).
Wish it was all "downwind", O-man. Have to paddle upwind to get to the downwind part, unless you get shuttled.
Earn your turns.
When I retire, I plan on opening a nice, small, core, surf shop... Probably on the Outer Banks. I'll build some boards, sell some wax, tell 'fish stories' of how big it was back in the day...
I would never even consider opening a climbing shop. Too much serious spray and I'd be way afraid that the hooligans on RC.com would find me and kick my old, fragile ass.
But maybe climbing and surfing are complimentary in a yin-yang sort of way.
Pay attention. A good surfer pays attention. Small children, newcomers, and people wearing denim sprint unknowingly into the surf. A good surfer pays attention. Don’t operate by guesswork. Check the surf. Know where the waves will be breaking, where they will not be breaking, where you’ll catch waves before you ever become wet, then paddle out.
Surf cameras, surf apps on your phone (cell phones in general), websites, blogs: If you must. But check the surf. Everyday. In person. Surfing is a practice, and it is to be treated as such.
Take care of your equipment. Fix your dings. Change your wax. Learn what works for you, and learn how to ride it. Learn when to ride it. Know how you want to ride a wave before you do it, and choose your board accordingly.
Think. About your waves, about your boards, about your place in the lineup. A good surfer thinks.
If you’re not a kid, let the kids be. Kids are shitheads many times, but they are kids, so don’t get mad at them for being kids.
To that end, a good surfer is a good steward. Of the break. Of the spot.
Shut up. Realize that there’s not a whole lot to say. Yes, the weather’s fine, and yes, the waves are good, and yes, we all hope the wind stays off of it, and yes, it’s really crowded. We all get it. So let it be. A good surfer shuts up.
Let a few go. As much for yourself as for the rest of the people who eventually catch them. Duke said it first: “Wave come, wave go.” The sooner you learn that, the better off you’ll be.
Oh, and this: There’ll always be a better wave. Than the one you missed, the one you just rode, whatever. There’ll be a better wave. The sooner you learn this, the better off you’ll be.
Know how to deliver a good stinkeye, but don’t do it unless necessary. Let your surfing do the talking, operate with the understanding that you are going to get waves because you can.
On this point: Surf at a spot that suits your skill level. A good surfer does not get in the way, does not insert himself into a lineup where he does not belong. Instead, he surfs at a spot where he can get waves, because he can.
Pro tour, competition, surf celebrities, star-studded movie premieres: Okay. But don’t get too excited by any of it. Know that the great aim of all of these entities is to promote “industry” and that the great aim of industry is to get you to buy things. This is truth.
If you have allowed the purchasing of products to become a major part of your surf experience, put this magazine down, sit in a quiet place, reflect.
That said, don’t be overzealous. People try to make money. Understand this, come to terms with it, participate in it where appropriate, but mostly ignore it. Realize it has nothing to do with your experience of surfing, and move on.
Buy surfboards. Know what’s involved in making a board, even if you don’t make the board yourself. Know that it’s a product of craftsmanship, a skill that requires precision to a sixteenth of an inch, a skill that is honed over time. Appreciate this. Also appreciate that you likely don’t have these skills, and find the best person who does that you can have a relationship with.
Pay full price for you board. Because it’s worth it, and because shapers are surfers who don’t get paid enough for what they do. Bring a six-pack when you pick up the board, discuss its making.
Claiming waves is for kids and pro surfers who have been taught to believe that the rest of us are impressed when they grab their genitals after pulling into a tube. We are not.
On that note, insert tube, exit tube. Arms below the shoulders. You are not a wide receiver, you did not score a touchdown, and this is not the Super Bowl.
But: experience some joy. If you feel like you can’t contain that self-congratulatory hoot, don’t. Hoot. Holler. Laugh. Smile. That’s why you’re out here.
Whatever you do, you do not flip off the wave. You do not stick your tongue out. You do not look back to the lineup like an excited puppy dog waiting to see who saw you get pitted. You’re happy. You’ve done well. Good for you. That’s enough, now. Paddle back out, try again.
Speaking of which, stay humble. If surfing hasn’t taught you this by now, keep paddling back out. It will.
Helmets, unless surfing a treacherous slab reef: no.
Clean lines. Know what you can do, but more importantly, know what you cannot do. Surf top-to-bottom, cleanly. That is the aim.
Airs, unless you can do them in a manner seamless with the riding of a wave, are ill-advised.
Airs, that is, are ill-advised for 99 percent of us.
That doesn’t mean, by the way, that we shouldn’t try. It’s okay—good, even—to do things that are ill-advised sometimes.
Always pull in, even if you cannot make it, even if you do not know how to ride the barrel. A good surfer pulls in.
There are women in the lineup. Let them be surfers. They do not want to be hit on when they’re going surfing, and they do not find this attractive. They want to go surfing, same as you. Respect this.
That said, if you want to sneak a peek, go for it.
There is a pecking order, and it is to be respected. Know where you fit in the lineup, and respect this. Wait your turn, because it will come. When it comes, when somebody tells you to go, go. If you don’t make this wave, know that you will be waiting a lot longer for your next one.
A good surfer knows he doesn’t need to fight, but he also knows he doesn’t need to move aside for anybody. Respect, sure, but not fear.
Paddle out to crowded alpha-surf spots with the understanding that it will be crowded, that you will not get waves. Expect this, deal with this, participate in this. Do not complain.
On travel: Put in work. Find a spot. Score it. Be quiet. No Tweets, no Facebook, no pictures, no blogs, no braggadocio. Surfing can teach you how to experience joy and excitement, and how to keep that joy and excitement to yourself. Allow it to do so.
Sometimes you mess up. Sometimes you fall. Sometimes you fail. Don’t punch the water. Don’t scream. Get back on your board, paddle back out.
Always paddle back out.
Surfing is not golf. It is not tennis. It is not to be pursued on the weekends, or in the summer. It is a lifetime commitment. A good surfer knows this.
What??!! That's the secret ingredient that I've been missing. Hell, I have boards that have decades of warm water wax layered over cold water wax layered over warm water wax layered over cold water wax layered over.... all layers imprinted with wetsuit rubber, rash guard fabric, and torso skin cells.
"How to be a good surfer", ... yeah.
Much of that applies to skiing too, or even to life!
"... don't punch the water...". I sometimes whack a ski pole on the snow. Now I'll think twice first. Truthfully, I don't even surf, but I keep returning to this thread.
Yeah.
Both climbing and surfing are passions of mine. I think the two sports cross over well. I am not relly sure why I have not contributed to this thread but after looking at all the cool stuff posted and want to play. I have shared some of these pics before but this thread justifies a second share.
Jefe: You ever need to get out of that desert to get salty my door is open here in Oside. Follow surf line when the ocean comes alive jump in the car and drive west brother.
I am stoked on the direction this thread is moving in.
Great images T2!
I just checked the surf forecast for Maui and it said we have some south swell getting in here then I checked the live video cam for the west side and sure enough long pealing lines over there. I'm not expecting much size but it looks like we're surfing today and I sure need it!
East coast is about to get lit up with a long period swell (12s-15s is odd for us on the right coast).... just in time for me to be in Amsterdam on business. woo hoo. I'll probably be able to see the swell while I fly out pf Philly on SEP 6. Gotta get a window seat, or not.
IMHO: Climbing is the act of ascending rock,ice,plastic and any mix of terrain or techniques be it sport or trad on cracks (finger-off width),slab,big wall,free,aid,bouldering,indoor,steep waterfall ice,dry tooling,steep snow,and all the various grades and technical difficulties of each.
IMHO: Surfing is riding waves of any size or condition on any craft or vehicle including long board,short board,body board,body, sail board,kite board,tow-in,outrigger canoe,SUP,or kayak,even jet ski for that matter?
I surfed two sessions of delightful glassy shoulder high south swell yesterday over on the west side. It doesn't sound like much but the waves were frequent and consistent and the lineup was very friendly. Every one got a bunch of waves. I am a little sore and sunburned today but I think I'll drive back over today and check it out again.
Punta San Carlos has lost a good friend and a little bit of history in Rodney Howard but his spirit and good memories will live on for a lifetime with all of his friends and family! Today we had a paddle out at the Bombora in Rodney's honor followed by an epic surf session for well over 30 people! Rodney you are missed by much more people then you'll ever know! Kevin Trejo
For Sale, $200. Want to ride big waves? This is the board. I've ridden 15 footers on this thing. Paddles amazing, hauls ass once your'e up. Need Gas and Food, otherwise I'd be keeping this.
I miss Rodney already. I was shocked to hear that he passed on. I was in Fiji at the time, surfing Cloudbreak. The guys at Punta San Carlos said that it looked hopeless for kiting the day of his memorial paddle out, but late that the day, the wind really came up to 7M weather and the waves were good!
RIP Rodney.
After about 30 years of surfing I never saw one however in my first year on a SUP I've seen dozens so far. The ones last Saturday stand out for me and definitely rose my heart rate.
I was out alone on a bluebird day about a mile off Pensacola Beach when out of the corner of my eye I see a huge splash. Cool I thought, probably some dolphins playing so I start heading over to where I saw the splash when I see another one jump and splash about 100 feet off starboard. The thing that caught my eye was this was no ordinary jump like a dolphin which tends to jump in arcs but a straight shot out of the water jumping at least ten feet where the fish did a 360 before splashing back down in the water.
I've never saw anything jump like that before so I'm thinking this is probably just an amberjack or some other game fish. So after about 5 mins of cruising around where I saw the last jump I figured they moved on, however I turn and look behind me and see three tiger sharks slowly following me and then when I look forward I see another one about the size of my 12' board swim right underneath me as smooth as silk.
Fak that was big I thought and slowly started paddling to shore.
Pyro, great pic of the wooden pier! I grew up in a small town called Cayucos with a pier like that. In the winter of 82/83 it lost 18+ wooden pilings and two sections of the pier. I remember watching waves break OVER the end of the sagging pier! And the whole middle section by the fish cleaners was missing.
It was dangerous to even walk on the beach that winter. My mom had a bakery across the street from the beach, and I remember piling up sandbags to keep the ocean out of our shop.
The whole beach was sucked away, causing the beach wall and part of the frontage road to cave in. Driftwood from the high tide went a block inland to main street. The swing set on the beach was sucked away, and the merry-go-round had a 6 feet tall concrete foundation exposed, so as a kid I couldn't reach the bottom side of the merry-go-round.
My bro and I spent a lot of time on the beach on our breaks from working at the shop, and over time I saw some of the craziest formations from tidal changes. Sort of like a miniature badlands with 6 feet tall sand cliffs that changed daily based on tide and storm conditions.
Some days I wake up here in Tucson and go outside to have my coffee. Something about the lighting, the calmness in the air, and I just know.
But I can't grab my damp wetsuit from the patio railing and suit up at home. I can't run down to the garage and apply a nice fresh layer of purple lable or some tri flow to the rusted chain.
Mesquites don't show wind like palms and there is no smell of salty air.
I won't be riding up to the bluff this morning.
But my spidey senses still tingle, and I know the boyz are there, on it.
I used to be on it.
It's okay.
I will console myself by removing the last flakey scab from the back of my hand, remembering that jam and the beauty of the place.
I'll console myself with my growing hit list. I see my foot twisting into a crack on Jah Man. I feel the exposed glory climbing atop the Rockefellows. I am watching my dog bounce up the approach to Magnolia.
I am topping out on the last first ascent of the season.
I will remind myself that I will surf and climb til the day I die.
And that is a fortunate life.
The past week has been the best surfing that I can remember.
For day and days it has been glassy and double overhead in the sets.
I have been surfing Noriega's which is right in my back yard every day except yesterday when it got too big to hold up.
I drove down to Kanaha and surfed 4 delightful hours at glassy head and a half with one of my all time favorite surf partners Debbie Brown. She just killed it!
It seem to be closed out all the way down the North Shore so I think I will go out to Peahi and sit on the cliff above Jaws and watch the show.
Here's a video of Shane Dorian at Jaws yesterday.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Hey, I've been to that lake (that is, the one mentioned in the comment superior to this one). Long before I could stand up on a surfboad. My mom was born in Ironwood, Michigan. Verrry cold there.
I feel that surfing is restorative, while climbing is a bit more aggressive, relative to ones skill level and concentration within each. I often notice that they both go well hand in hand. My climbing enhances my surfing, while my surfing benefits my climbing. As my surfing has evolved, my climbing has co-evolved. As Charles earlier said, its time allocations can be difficult to accommodate. I spend so much time doing one or the other that they infringe on eachother. Its difficult to fully pursue both simultaneously.
"This is Michi Schwiger finally making it back to the beach at Kuau without his board or paddle after getting hit by a monster close-out set at Mama's, then getting washed way outside the reef and having to bodysurf back through another monster set at Sunrise (which tossed him over the falls like an Austrian rag doll), and after an hour swim being greeted by the Maui Fire Department and a lot of tourist fans on the rocks. This guy is my hero." Andy Church
This is the s..t legends are made of!
Now THAT was a helluva swell!
We surfed glassy double overhead waves right in my back yard for days and days then when it got real big I went to Kanaha which had a bit of island blocking so it was still manageable but it too had some double over head sets rolling through although most of the really good ones were in the overhead to head and a half. The right handers were holding up through three sections and that's over a 1/4 mile (and that aint no bull).
After one of those big rights the paddle back to the peak took forever. Later in the day I started only surfing lefts. They were just as much fun and the paddle back was way easier in that the left side of the peak at Kanaha has a natural channel.
I paddled/drifted the 1/4 mile back in after a solid four hours and I was completely exhausted.
It was still getting bigger the next day and the wind started picking up but not enough to wave sail yet.That day the entire north shore was closed out and the only waves that were working were Jaws and some obscure peaks way out on the outer reefs jet ski or boat access only. I took that day off and helped a friend work on his property.
The next day the trade winds were back full on and the swell had dropped some but we were still getting 18'-20' faces in select sets. Every thing was set up for classic wave sailing 16-18 knot side on wind and the sets were spaced far enough apart to allow access with out much penalty getting out. There were plenty of waves to ride so I was very selective and I made a point to avoid those larger set waves although I did ride one seriously big one that was the best single wave of the season so far.
After that session every one hung out at the beach till way after dark the cold beer seemed to appear out of no where and didn't run out for quite some time.
What fun!
Yesterday the waves were still around but the wind had picked up a solid notch and although I got some great wave rides it really wasn't as much fun.
Scuttlebutt has it that we have another swell on it's way maybe starting today. GAME ON!!!!
Here's a few random shots that I took after one of my surf sessions last week.
This is before it got real big.
All photos by Olaf Mitchell
[photoid=268106
[photoid=268125
So I surfed quite a bit when I was a younger but moved on to other things. The father in law calls yesterday and says he taking all of us to Nicaragua for 10 days in December at a place called Rancho Santana. I google it and BOOM. He has rented a Villa On the beach overlooking 3 of the best breaks in the country!!! I guess I gotta back into surf shape. I married into a nice family no?
pyro - "surfing pipeline with a costco 99dollars soft top."
now that looked fun. i need a left total knee replacement (tkr) that workers comp is gonna spring for, but i have been putting off. and it is really sketchy going from prone to standing. and have shifted to long boards (ten-o donald takayama) so maybe it's time to buy me a stand-up. that is the first vid that has gotten my interest meter registering. thnx for posting.
o-man, thanks for keeping this thread alive. It connects me to the activity that fed my soul during my childhood, but which has not been a part of my life for the last 25 years.
I noticed sufers calling the kids (or anyone younger than you) "grommet" some time in the late 80s. Sometimes surfers with less status or seniority would try to assert this appellation on boogie boarders, even if the boogie boarders were older and more capable in the water, before the more universal slur of "sponger" came into vogue.
I assume it would be a reference to a ring fastener for ropes on the edge of a piece of fabric or sail, indicating a tiny "inconsequential" part of a bigger thing, intended to form a derogatory diminutive.
To maintain some pics and psych, here's a video of the place that was my home break when I was growing up (but I just stole this video). So many memories from a lifetime ago in this place:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I've been out there in every condition from crazy solid whitewater chop going in every direction, to 6am hot offshore winds spraying back the lip, to pure obsidian glassy clean. Powerful back-twisting waves in two feet of water, to 5 foot hollow close-outs that were weak enough to go over the falls on purpose doing 360s on our knees on boogie boards. Days when it would take 45 minutes of furious paddling to get outside, or jump off the pier, and other days where it was so flat we could only skim board with our boogie boards, or just paddle around to be doing something. Lazy crowded summer days with hoards of brown pelicans diving for anchovies and humpback whales breaching, to lonely winter days at sunset after the last of the other dudes went in, and maybe pulling into that thick-lipped black tube close-out wasn't such a good idea but I did it anyways. Ok back to work.
According to Samuel Eliot Morison, who knew more about maritime history than any of us, gromet is a 15th or 16th century term for a ship's boy. Adapting the word for an apprentice surfer seems fairly consistent.
Columbus had several gromets on Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria on his voyages. All going well, with experience and training they'd become seamen, then able seamen.
Brandon that is very sad news to here that tribal member passed!
We have had two encounters in the past week here on the north shore of Maui at Kanaha Beach Park as well.
The odd thing is, I remember calling others grommets, and being called a grommet, in the 1970s. A sort of friendly insult, used at school or maybe scouts. I wonder where we got that? You'd say to someone "You grommet!" when they did something klutzy. The word's etymology is interesting.
After surfing windless and often large waves every day this past week the wind came back two days ago and delivered one of the most delightful wave sailing seshs of the season.
It was one of those seshes that put a big smile on every face on our beach.
I’m not talking epic in any way other than steady perfection 4.7m wind and plenty of head to logo high waves. There were a few nearly mast high waves later in the day. Most of the waves that day had good size and shape but very little power in them. Other than the late day makers that came through that is.
Yesterday’s sesh proved to be a different ball game. Most of the sets were producing waves in the mast high and better range. I must admit that I took my time launching in that I enjoy the later seshes after most of the sailors have tried out. Many of our core group sail at that time as well.
I chose a 4.7m sail with a 78ltr wave board instead of a 5.0m sail. The 4.7m sail worked well but was on the low end of the power range.
The wind had backed off the shore and I had to swim with my rig all the way out the channel and I had difficult time water starting in the turbulent area we fondly call the toilet bowl due to the mixed up hydraulics caused by conflicting currents and a very shallow reef.
The 4.7m sail worked well but it was on the low end of the power range. It actually delivered plenty of power for me to place myself in a perfect position to catch an uncountable number of juicy mast high waves with very little penalty.
I did get worked pretty good a couple of times but that is to be expected when wave sailing in those conditions.
The weather was far less stable than the day before. The passing rain squalls often nearly shut the wind down completely. These pesky squalls also produced some of the most brilliant rainbows. I wish my and ME limited powers of description would allow me to describe this dynamic setting to the level it deserves.
At one point I was a fair ways off shore on my way back in. I had very little wind in my sail and I was just barely planning when two 7’-8’ dolphins decided to cruise along with me for a while.
The dolphins, rainbows, warm and clear water, just enough wind, magnificent waves, a dynamic Maui landscape, and some good friends to share it with! What a blessing!
The sub planning conditions made up wind progress difficult. Every time I gained a little ground another nice wave would present its self and I would have to take it. This kept me down wind of the narrow channel that I had to navigate in order to make it back to the rocky launch site.
I made one attempt at coming in and made it through the impact zone but when I did the wind shut off and I fell in the same area that I described earlier. I had No wind in very confusing currents. All the while I was drifting away from any chance making my destination.
At this point I was still in a position to possibly swim in, but, it would be very close. I didn’t like the odds so I decided to try to water start and sail back through the impact zone. I hoped to gain a better angle on the approach to the narrow channel. Luckily I made it out through the waves during a pause in the sets.
This time I worked my way up wind to a point that I felt that I could make another run at it.
I was hoping for another lull in the wave action long enough to slip inside the impact zone without taking one of the giant waves from behind and losing my balance falling in and not being able to water start.
Well, Lady Luck was not with me! When I entered the impact zone a large wave came up on me from behind. It plowed over me from behind. I was violently swept up and I plunged free falling over the falls with my gear!
This must have been very entertaining to the peanut gallery that was assembled on the beach.
Before I recovered from the beating that the last wave dealt me, I had to take the next two equally sized waves of the set on the head!
After catching my breath I swam over and retrieved gear. I was once again out of position for the channel.
This is not the first time that I have been in this situation and course of action was clear.
I had to drift with current around the rock point and then swim with my stuff to the extreme back of the bay,
Once the point had been cleared it gets peaceful and there was time to reflect on the day, the rainbows, the dolphins, and BEER. I knew that I was going to a friendly place and I made good progress up until I about 150 meters from my chosen destination. With an outgoing tide the undertow was at this point inhibiting my progress to land. This can be very frustrating and extremely exhausting.
My friend Dean had been watching my progress from over on the point with binoculars and saw that I was in the grips of the strong rip current. Dean waked 300meters of jagged rocky shore barefoot to where I was trying to get in. The next thing I knew he was putting on his fins and started swimming out to me. He made it to me in no time at all. With his help the two of us were able to break the lock that the current had on me.
The rocky landing was sketchy but all went well with no injury to body or gear.
I wasn’t the only sailor that had a bit of an epic getting back to the beach last night.
All in all that’s the game we play at Kuau.
We have no winners only survivors!
About a decade ago I was hired by a Brazilian movie production company to help with the filming of the “Tow-In World Cup” a surfing competition being held at Peahi "Jaws".
My initial assignment was establishing two separate camera stations on the sheer cliff above “Jaws”. In addition to the camera platforms, a trail system with safety rails also needed to be constructed in order to safely transport the equipment and protect the crew that were positioned on these steep and awkward perches.
The film was to be shot with 35mm movie cameras.
This required a person constantly running freshly loaded film canisters from a production vehicle on top down the cliff down to the camera station below and transporting canisters of exposed film back to the production center for processing and reloading.
While I was working on my camera station and trail project, there was a lot going on out on the ocean.
In addition to the usual surfing activity at Jaws, another production crew was at work.
Laird Hamilton, Derrick Doener, and Dave Kalama, were towing in to waves in the 30’ range. They were wearing camouflage print wetsuits, firing weapons at each other with all three of them surfing the same wave. This was an action stunt for an upcoming James Bond movie.
After the trail construction was completed the swell on the north shore dropped drastically causing the contest to be postponed.
Two weeks went by before I received the call telling me that the contest was on and we were going back to work.
The majority of the contestants and film crew had left the island and gone back to their homes.
They were now on the first flights back to Maui!
Also on its way to Maui was a giant swell!
With all the logistics of a live film shoot, something had to go wrong, and things did!
One of the rented 35mm movie cameras went down at another very important camera spot.
Mercer Richards our assistant camera man was moved to that station to continue the shooting using his personal movie camera equipment.
Cameraman Greg Huglin received a radio call from the producer (Mike Slattery) asking which of the backup camera men he wanted to fill in as his assistant. His response was, "I already have a man, Olaf is taking care of things quite well and all we need is a film runner to take his place"
This resulted in my a*#isting Greg Huglin while he filmed “Jaws” at over50’ with the best big wave "tow–in” surfers in the world competing for a $70,000 first place prize!
The footage that was shot that day was later turned into the feature film “ Billabong Odyssey”
[Click to View YouTube Video]
(Greg Huglin wrote this about that shot.)
"Hey Olaf,
Yup this amazing shot keeps on popping up and I think it's the most widely watched shot online.
It was shot by Pete Fuzard in Super18 from the helo.
I was shooting from the spot you built me and ran thru twenty 400' film mags (80 minutes) that day, the most I ever shot in one day, ever.
I begged Pete to let me do the helo shooting since I had already done almost 200 hours in the past but he was the director and it was his call.
It was Pete's very first time of using the Tyler Mount in a helo and he friggin nailed it!
The shot of Parsons is jaw dropping and will live as one of the best ever.
That was an amazing day we all had courtesy of the Brazilians.
I just ran into Ricardo Fonseca, the Brazilian producer of that event here in Santa Barbara.
He was visiting a rich Brazilian surfer who is a mutual acquaintance and Ricardo came over to my house and visited.
He still has a surfing TV show in Brazil.
How’s the Maui life for you?
Cheers,
Greg
I was going through Kickstart to support Ed Padula's El Cap film restoration project, and I noticed that there is a film about Rick Griffin in the works.
His imagery influenced me tremendously as I grew up in the Bay Area in the 60s and 70s.
The Film: “Griffin” is a feature-length documentary that explores the art, life and eccentric spark of one of the world’s least known and most influential 20th Century surrealists. Over the time-warped span of the 1960's, one-time teen cartoonist Rick Griffin created defining icons for three pillars of west coast counterculture: surfing, psychedelic rock and underground comix.
fnally got back in the water last week at Jalama. Fun sholder to head high with clean conditions. Felt so good to get some waves after long lay-off due to injury and work. RIP to Fran Solorio who was taken by Whitey at surf beach. (one of the spookiest spots I've surfed, not a good idea during Oct. it seems}
Following message is from Tracey Harrap regarding the recent Tsunami Warning in Maui -
Tracey Harrap
hi paul.... yeah some drama once again!
i got texted while leaving mana food with dinner supplies BUGGER there goes dinner plans...
These warning effect me as to where i live... as with many others. its very stressfull to deal with if this concerns you. First thing is text messages and phone calls of warning... they often drop out and not received due to overload on ph systems.. its still not officall on whats happening. I dont have a T.V so its hard to keep updated.. though local radio is very good.
Next thing is it REALLY going to hit you? Then the sirens start going off... thats a scary sound.... and its the first warning that is serious, and that evacuations are happening and reccomened... this follows by more sirens and airplanes flying over the effected coast areas... with flashing lights and also sounding a siren ... then the cops start driving up your street using a recorded message telling you to leave.
Neighbours group together questions of "Are you going? Are you staying? Are we on high enough ground? "How many times have we all packed and nothing happened? (this i belive is my 4th time) You think... "BUT is this diferent than other times?" Which direction is it coming from... straight on this time... yet the hight warnings are less then the Japan warnings, which left only a small amount of damage.
But like i said this is coming straight to you.. The Ocean is a mystery on what she could, or could not brew up, regardless of last time!!! Thoughts of the memorys of Japan cant help run through your mind again.
So you pack... what do you take? What dont you take. Yourself and family are at the top of the list, along with your furry friends
Its intresting in what do people hold of most value..... As the chance of watching your home disapear or damanaged is in warning.... and then wishing you had grabed something.. seeming you had time. Or do you just bail with a basic few back up clothes, passport laptop and credit cards.
For me its these basics i take and my bike... perhaps roads are damaged, and a bike could serve quite handy. Of course theres my dog. Its a strange feeling knowing everything else may or may not be there in less than an hour from now. Its an errie feeling hearing the sirens start up again.. after every so many minutes (I think was about every 15mins or so) The sirens rings increase as the countdown is getting closer. I bail its not worth it... its my choice... some neighbours stay.. thats their choice. Getting in a car driving to high ground is better than taking that 50/50 chance.
You go to a mates place and demand a cocktail and you crash on their floor or sofa... PJ party oh yeah!!!! hopefully they have T.V to stay updated. tomorrow is going to be new day... but it sure can have a new story!
So that basically what happens, yes im tired today, yes, I was allowed to go home this morning, and yes you can see the surge levels on the beachs.. not sure of any damage yet, planes and helicoptors are flying low around the coast levels...
Yes its a new day... and yes it could have been a different story.
You are welcome to share this on the N.Z.W.A page if you like.... just wanted to share my views as living here on Maui for 16 years. and you wanted news.
I also still think of all those people in the south island with all what they have gone through the last few years. EVERYONE stay safe and enjoy each day.. one never knows!
Mahalo Tracey Harrap N.Z.L -17
We are in the middle of another an epic period here on the north shore of Maui.
We have had three separate shark events two of which I posted about up thread and another that we an actual bite. http://mauinews.com/page/content.detail/id/566411/Beaches-closed-after-shark-attack.html?nav=10
The ocean has been in a unique mood.
Friday morning I addressed work things for a while and then I did my morning surf check and found glassy well over head waves in my back yard. When I paddled out at about 8:00 am there were a few standup guys already out but it wasn’t crowded. There was one dude that stood in the same line as me and just paddled for every wave. He was tall and very fit looking but he just kept missing waves that I could have gotten. I finally had to tell him that if he was going to paddle for waves he should make a point of getting them. He was so close to my line that if I got a wave that he had already initiated and we both got it, I felt that we would be too close for safety.
I was still getting some great waves and it was getting bigger and bigger. After about an hour I was joined by my buddy Mark.
After two hours of the session the waves were in the solid double overhead range and all the stand up guys had gone in except my buddy Mickey Eskimo.
With just the three of us out we cloud be selective and avoid the real bombs. We had our pick of the sweet head and a half nuggets.
After three hours we had scored a bunch of waves and the sets were starting to get erratic and the frequency and size were impossible to calculate.
On one set, Mark took off on the first wave and I took the second. His held up all the way to the right channel while mine closed out after I made the drop and got one turn resulting in me being in a very bad place. This set was one of the biggest so far and mark got to see me take the next eight waves square on the head. All I could do is just take a breath and dive for the bottom and hope that my board made it.
We both agreed that we should paddle in soon but things settled down some and we kept getting waves and the wind was only just starting to pick up. Most of the waves were silky smooth after the first wave of the set came through.
We paddled in after four solid hours and we were STOKED!
I walked back home and took an hour break and had lunch. I was contemplating a second session but when I got to the beach the waves had gotten a lot bigger and the sets were even more erratic. I’m talking ten foot Hawaiian that’s twenty foot plus faces and that just too big for me to paddle out into.
The next day I checked the surf at my local break and it was just too big. No one was out and except one team that was towing in at Noriega’s, my local break.
I loaded my board in the back of my truck and drove to Kanaha Beach Park where the scene was much mellower. So I thought.
Kanaha breaks about a quarter mile off shore so it can be hard to judge the size from the beach even with binoculars.
I did notice that the left channel was occasionally closing out and that told me to use caution.
When I arrived at the line up every one had a sober look about them. I went about the business of surfing. I wasn’t having much luck.
Then I saw this set out on the horizon and I started paddling out as fast and far as I could but it just wasn’t far enough. I made it over the first wave but the second was bigger I was paddling up a gigantic dead vertical wall water and as I got to the lip it broke! I went over the falls and the force drove me straight to the reef. When I made it back to the surface by board was snapped but was still held together by the glass in top.
I took two more waves on the head and the pounding subsided. With razor sharp fiber glass still holding the two pieces together I made the long paddle back in.
I drove back home and got another board and drove back to Kanaha and paddled back out. By the time I got back to the line up there were only three other surfers out and they were being very cautious.
I caught some really sweet left hander’s the were in the double over head size and realistically that was the limit of my comfort zone. The only problem was that in order to get those I had to sit a bit deeper than I wanted. After three of those a major set rolled through and pounded the living s..t out of me.
I didn’t feel like snapping another board that day so I paddled in and called it a day.
I spent the rest of the day watching the pros compete in the AWT wave sailing competition that was being held at Hookipa Beach Park right down the beach from my house.
There was soo much carnage and broken gear it was amazing. The best wave sailors in the world were getting creamed and washed on the rocks. What a show!
Quite a few of our gang gathered at my friend Tom’s beach house for a while that evening until the tsunami warning sirens went off and the police came around telling us that we had to evacuate the north shore and get to high ground.
We all went our separate ways I went home and grilled some dinner and then drove up country to the old abandoned Maui High School where most of my neighbors were hanging out. It was just like a big block party. Everyone had brought a cooler full of refreshments and the festivities went on into the a.m.
I was very tired the next morning so I had a leisurely morning and then went wave sailing with good wind and mast high waves till nearly dark.
Today the waves are still here although they seem to be a bit smaller and the wind is blowing so it’s, GAME ON!
Charles, thanks for the Kind words Dude!
I saw that video and I think that Mat was being very modest in his description of that massive can of woop ass he was dealt at Jaws! Mat Meola is my neighbor and I hang out with his dad Gary nearly every day.
Here's a couple more of my neighbors the Walsh twins DK and Shaun at Jaws.
Speaking of Eddie Aikau I watched "Busting Down The Door" again yesterday while I was in the Dentist office.
I was living on the north shore of Oahu up on Puppakia Road above Waimea Bay while the violent part of this drama was taking place. So it has a special feeling for me.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
During the winter of 1975 in Hawaii, surfing was shaken to its core. A group of young surfers from Australia and South Africa sacrificed everything and put it all on the line to create a sport, a culture, and an industry that is today worth billions of dollars and has captured the imagination of the world. With a radical new approach and a brash colonial attitude, these surfers crashed headlong into a culture that was not ready for revolution.
WOW! Yesterday was even better than the day before.
My first session was only an hour and a half due to a business meeting.
By the time I got back to the office it was already too big in the back yard so I ate lunch then then drove to Kanaha where it was just awesome but that session was cut short due to an accident. I took three solid double over head set waves on the head and when that was over I noticed a nasty gash in the rail of my board. I never saw the other guy or the board that did this.
No fault no blame GAME ON!!
I wish I had learned to surf, but living in Oklahoma pretty much nixed that.
I remember when me and another Okie friend took his short board out for a try. All I remember is my face getting pounded in the sand along the bottom. I think we were surfing beach break with no clue.
Surfing is cool. No doubt about that.
Leavitt. He is one of those guys that is so gifted that he can do anything.
I expect him to be the first 100 year old guy to do the Nose in a day.
Travis could ride anything with style(as shown in my video)but he gained notoriety through his noseriding- winning contests and being featured in magazines.
He was one of just a few riders who got free boards from the legendary surfer/shaper Donald Takayama, who just passed recently.
We had some great trips together.
On one trip to Rincon we loaded up our daily riders unaware that the Eddie Swell was on its way. On the fly. No internet.
When first light came we realized it was absolutely pumping. Many SB points were holding and all were crowded so we just figured we may as well join the shitshow at Rincon.
Our daily riders were 5'8" vintage(80's)twinnies. No cords.
Rincon was double overhead with a million seabugs and a mean current.
I made it out and just couldn't relax and have fun with the crowd and the bombs coming through, so I finally just burned some guy and got a sick one through the Cove bar, and got out.
I hung out next to the Pit where the crusty locals would sit and heckle all the kooks, and even the rippers, in the water and walking back up the point.
Trav finally caught a gem.
This was one of the finest waves, and one of the finest waves ridden, that I've ever seen.
Riding backside, where most of us would have been stalling in the barrel or running for the shoulder, Travcranked the sickest bottom turn into the smoothest most powerful S turn gouge under the lip, basically inside the tube. That move scrubbed just enough speed to let him stand in the tube for what must have been five seconds- all the way through the Cove.
The grumpiest locals stopped heckling and hooted for Trav.
We also scored El Cap (with TC out) and Pitas on that mission.
As a funny aside, I funded the trip, from my dole. We stayed in the Motel 6 at Ventura Harbor and all night there were tweekers playing with a dead seagull in the parking lot. WTF?
Walden Surfboards wrote:
"We are frustrated and saddened to hear that there has been another attack at "C" Street this morning, and the attack was on one of our dear friends. She is a beautiful person and passionate surfer. The bully is about 6'2, 200+ lbs., we know who he is because this isn't the first attack. What made this attack especially pathetic is this bully went after a women, and one who is about half his size.
An equally awful part of the bullying is the crew of grown men that watch and applaud the bully. It's bad enough that high school kids act like this but grown men? Where are the hero's? Where are the independent thinkers? Where is the honorable man that will come to the rescue of a victim?
For those of you who condone, support or even joke about violence in the water or worse do nothing..your followers. Not a leader among you! It's hard to be a leader, it takes guts.
To the followers... we are tired of hearing how much you hate SUP'ers, longboarder's, shortboarders, kooks, whatever your grip is....as if that justifies bullying. Save your hate for things that matter. Hate child abuse, hate poverty, etc. but don't waste your hate on a surfboard or a wave. To the haters..get out of your small world and your big ego and grow up."
We had some of that brand of drama here last weekend at Kanaha also.
I have that book (paperback)! I bought it when it first came out and have read it twice already. Very interesting (superb). I started surfing in the early 60's (as a kid) and it has been a big part of my life ever since. A friend of mine in HS was on the da'Cat team (Greg Noll Surfboards). We had heard a lot of stories about Miki, the dood was already legend (original dirtbag surfbum)! But the book is definitly enlightening, to say the least. He surely had his demons! ...
Thanks too, Jefe. Awesome, finless surfing. I remember back around 1969, one of the O'neill kids or one of their people was experimenting with a strange finless surfboard that was kind of s-shaped from the side. Regular pintail in plan, but s-shaped from the side. Maybe too much going on at once to really give finless mode a try. Anyway, the board disappeared right away. This was at The Lane.
Derek has incredible speed. He has to bury rails far more and grab them too, but I'll buy it. What he gets on the wave is just insane. It is just stupendously creative and free. Thanks.
Only surfed Rincon once. Easter vacation 1968. My best friend and i packed up my '56 chevie and headed north the first day of vacation and caught Malibu on the very first day/swell (south) of its season. There was NO one out. But by the time we suited up, Dewy Weber, Angie Reno and one other guy were hustling down the beach along side the two of us (me and my bud). It was 4-6 ft and glassy/perfect. So awesome.
We took off that evening and caught some more excellent surf the next morning at a place called 'Stanley's' (Stanley's Diner). Then drove up towards SB and slept by Rincon. It was only about 2'-3' but fun. I wish it would have been bigger, but i think it takes a NW swell. We were headed towards The Ranch (our whole reason for taking the trip). But got sidetracked when we met these two gals/sisters in a campground in a place just south of SB called Carpentria (no surf) and did an abrupt change in plans and followed them and their parents back south (i kinda fell in luv/i think it was the first time a girl stuck her tongue down my throat) lol!
Never made it to the ranch, and their dad did an excellent job of ditching us! I did get to surf some of the best and most powerful surf I had ever seen up until that time at a place called California Street. WOW, non stop 8-10 ft barrels lined up for miles with no one out but us. It was between a jetty & a pier (i think it was a pier) perfect rights!!
As we passed it on the way back south to diego, Malibu was still pumping but it was a total zoo, we didn't even go out. Killer vacation. We were both 18 and anticipating a free two way ticket to Nam with a very possible belly-up in a body-bag return trip, when we graduated from HS 2 months later. So we made the best of that Spring Break!!
edit: wish i had pics!! :(
btw, i did run into that very same babe about 10-12 years later while i was working in LA. we made up for what we were denied after her dad managed to ditch us! ;)
edit: SG cleaned up and won his 1st heat. & will move on to tomorrows heat.
Pyro - Man, that HURTS, it wudda been a dream come true!!
Thr Ranch was billed as 'Surfer's Nirvana' back then. A mystical place! ...sigh!
One of my favorite pics back then was the one of Skip Frye (local SD surfer and super cool dood) paddling out at The Ranch on a super glassy & overhead day with no one else in the lineup!
The main attribute of The Ranch was how few other surfers there were, usually. Its breaks can be terrific but so can a hundred others further south. Being right at Point Conception, sticking boldly out into the Pacific as it does, the area also is kind of a wave machine, for sure. But you weren't always guaranteed solitude and tons of waves there; a couple good sized boats up from Gaviota or further south, and your picture-perfect break could become just as disappointing as any other ones back in town.
I remember sneaking into Perkos and Governments in the middle of the night from Jalama and through the unlocked gate. It was autumn, 1969, I think. Surfing for a day there in great 3-4 ft glassy conditions at Perkos, we three had the place to ourselves, reveling until Mike Hynson finally woke up and paddled in from his boat he had moored outside the kelp. And the usual takeoff battle began all over again with his trying to be preeminent, snotty, and assuming he could hog at will all the waves from the nobodies from Santa Cruz. And to whom he wouldn't even chat. This all by himself and no henchmen. You see he was still enjoying notoriety from co-starring in Endless Summer. So we just shut him down and watched him blow a fuse; easy to do since he was solo. A couple of moves into the encounter, he tried to snake another wave from my buddy who was already riding it, so I just grabbed the nose of his board and watched his narcissistic act collapse. I think he was even having a fantasy, all by himself, of being watched, adored, even filmed. It was not a good plan though, as the three of us were hell bent for leather to get a good day in, having risked trespassing and the giant hike in, and all pretty gnarly folks from Steamer Lane.
Eventually though, Ranch foreman Floyd and his big gang of revolver-toting cowboys found our little camp in one of the ravines above the beach and soon we were hiking back out to Jalama.
Yep, Hynson & Frye were as different as night & day. They both road for & worked/shaped for G&S when I was in HS ('65-'68) and the G&S shop was directly east of OB (san diego) as was our HS and whenever a strong swell hit, the two of them and all of us would beeline it to OB! Mike was a total snob, and Skipper was extremely friendly. He would pass down like new boards to the needy youth & sit on the beach and talk story while filing/fine tuning his fins.
Evidently Hynson has had a change of heart in the last few years. He lived on the streets of PB for over a dozen years as a total down & out meth head. Made his way back and has emersed himself into shaping and reflecting on how his life went wrong. Seems like an okay guy now. He has some great shapes/boards and sponsors a lot of up and coming young surfers. His Hynson Model Redfin was daKine stick to have during the sixties and to this day for that matter, a great big wave board. One of the first flat bottomed down-railers. But Skips similar model is right on target also.
I will never forget surfing at PB pier on the last day before they closed the pier for surfing during the summer of '68 (swimming only). It was about 3'-4' with an occasional 6 footer, but the usual left off the pier wasn't breaking at all. Everyone was surfing about 50-100 yards north of the pier. I was sitting on the cliff/bluff watching Skip surfing for about 45-60 minutes, and all of a sudden he starts paddling down to the pier. There wasn't a thing in site on the horizon and had been zero waves at the pier all day. It took him a while to paddle the 100 or so yards, but just as he got there, this perfect six footer comes rolling in next to the pier and he rides it into the beach and then splits. I was there all day, from early morning tell evening and did not see another wave break at the pier all day.
Blew me away! (the dood is legend)!!
edit: "Endless Summer" - during the Spring of my sophomore year in HS ('66) Bruce Brown came to our school (H. Hoover HS) auditorium, which is were all the surf movies that came to san diego county played, and MC'd his latest flick "ES"! Just as he was getting started he mentions that MH is in the audience, and Mike pops up and starts bowing a couple times each in all four directions! lol
This is Joe's writing, but I paragraphed it differently to make it easy to read.
It was around this time [1956-57] that Yvon took up surfing in addition to climbing. The flat top of his Ford sedan accommodated a surfboard very nicely, and he would throw his forge and anvil in the back and head for the beach. If the surf was up he'd ride the waves; if not, he'd set up his equipment on the beach and pound out pitons and put the gates in carabiners. It was all work and play. In 1957, as if in a parallel universe, another youth from Southern California was raising the stakes in another game. Greg Noll and six of his friends decided that they might be able to surf the bug waves at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu.
This was two years before Sandra Dee popped out of the big screen as Gidget and the surfing craze really got going. There are a lot of parallels between the early climbers and surfers. They not only scaled big walls, and rode big waves, but they made do with little money, overhauled their respective technologies, expected and wanted recognition only from their friends, and enjoyed a camaraderie that all but disappeared as the sports became more popular and populated.
The physical sensations the two sports offer are quite different, but I suspect that the psychological states are very similar--long periods of hanging around in a beautiful, natural environment, and then a moment on the edge where you trust that your experience, ability, and confidence will lead to a happy ending. Chounard was the only one truly able to compare the two sports, as he was the only one of that era who participated in both.
When I was a kid, however, I learned how to body surf at Coraona del Mar by watching older surfers. Most of them body surfed, but a few owned long, hollow, plywood boards that had a cork at the rear for letting the water out. When the surf was crashing along the top of the breakwater, a wave would brab me by my scrotum and pile drive me into the sand if I didn't get to it in time, or it would wring me out like a dishrag until I didn't know which way was up.
But when everything came together, when the crest of the glass-green, arcing wave shot me toward the beach, and I felt not in control of the wave but in control of my own body as it merged with wave's power, focused only on this moment immersed in the roiling froth sll around me, then the ride eclipsed all other experiences. Heady stuff for a scrawny kid. Then we moved to Glendale, too far from the beach for regular trips, and my surfing days were over.
--Joe Fitschen, Going Up
Who could doubt that Pratt would've hung ten had he desired. Such balance.
Seen Glen's other photo of him standing on the guardrail while juggling over Yosemite Point?
Peter, never been to this thread. Never knew you had salt in your veins. Nice outlawry. Bandits on the Ranch, Boss!
All my surf days were placid but one, and I've told it elsewhere. It involved Ike, my b-in-law, who had the misfortune to be almost drowned by an Outsider at the Jetties in Oxnard, during a sub-tropical event. That was the Last Time. I never went out again in storm surf. Way too hairy and unpredictable for a Merced wannabe.
It surprises me no body posted this, but then I just found it myself!
This was one of the best and most original things here, IMO. Surf shots are way cool, mostly, but the climbing posts are excellent in juxtaposition.
Add to this my earlier post about the Boss and his experiences in both, then the OP answer is Yes, the two compliment one another, much like cookies and milk, Abbott and Costello, (here name any of your your favorite poisons).
The best shot to combine the two is the one of Mz. Justice, hanging twenty in the air over the water hanging on rock while her shadow imitates her.
Splitter, especially--
My days at Rincon were so easy-going. A nine-footer is what I had, so that's what I rode, learning no tricks, just being a dog on a board, content with the ride I was getting, FOR DAYS. The wave's so long there, you forget it's a long walk back to the point!
Three words for my experiences at Rincon: Paradise for pussies.
Never been there during any kind of outrageous conditions. The ride's probably a lot less easy-going, I imagine.
I really liked the Rincon vid, drljefe, it took me back to those thrilling days of yesteryear when the Rincon was typically populated by a tenth of the crowd. It was truly a deserted place, oftener than you might imagine. That was in 1971, forty-one years ago.
I had jobs in the hills above the Rincon and serviced pipelines and tanks and treatment facilities for a contractor out of Saticoy. That island is one of the leases I worked on, but I can't remember which company or companies leased that place. I think it's a collection point for the wells out in the channel, as I recall, where the crude is "heat treated" so it will flow more better through the lines leading to the tanks, wherever they are.
My brother-in-law and I got into the yard at about the same time in the afternoons, he at his pump service and I at the contractor's. We'd race home, clean the day's dirt off, then meet at my place, throw the boards into the DORF, and head for the Jetties. Two hours until dark to get the stink of crude out of my head. The weekends were for Sespe, Tahquitz, and JT, sometimes, even, YV.
Fishing, mountain biking, and even dirt-biking (done in a conservative way), trolling on ST, all are compatible activities with climbing.
Really good tales just above, thanks Splitter, Russter and Brian. Nostalgic too. Especially Splitter on the catchup on Hynson. I had no idea, especially since I am not in the surfing culture to much extent any more. I sure do lurk in it though. I go to Surfline.com all the time and watch my favorite spots in HD.
I found this listening to Can....Reminds me of the fun of growing up surfing on the everyday level.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc7Ua3W9GkM&ob=av2e
I spend most of my time surfing on Kauai now. My good friend owns a house there. I don't know if this has been posted but this is a truly beautiful video of him shot where I grew up surfing......I think it explains the very best of what being in the water means.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c6uM950uFY Happy Thanksgiving!
This thread just gets better and better!
We have some real quality energy going in my opinion.
The swell we had earlier this week was real big. It was just too big, and it was messed up with strong and fluky off shore winds.
For me it looked like looking into Dirty Harry's hand canon. "DO Ya Feel Lucky Punk?"
Well I didn't!
A few guys tried and there were no positive stories about their sessions.
The next day the swell had dropped to a seemingly manageable size but the wind was still strong and off shore creating a massive wind shadow with a strong rip current that made it extremely difficult to get back through the narrow rocky channel at thew Kuau launch.
I opted to not go out again thinking that my luck wasn't much better than the day before.
I took my gear to the launch and watched for a few moments and then took it back home changed out of my wet suit( it was cool enough to wear a shorty) I then went back to the beach to watch the show.
I wasn't there very long when I noticed someone waving and signaling for help.
I walked over to get a closer look and noticed that it was my neighbor Geovanti.
The waves hitting the rocks were so violent that there was no way to help him so I directed him to swim with his gear the extreme back of the bay.
I walked the jagged shore line and kept him company as he made his way.
The currents were favorable and he made good progress.
I had been in this situation a lot over the years and knew that there was only one place to come in and directed him to the spot.
When he got close enough to communicate he said that he had really screwed his knee up.
I swam out to him and had him stay in the water while I got his gear in through the rocks and sizable shore pound. Then I helped him in as best I could. I just told him to crawl and stay off the injured leg.
Once we were safely on the shore I had to figure out how to get him across the extremely rugged terrain.
Luck was with us in that I noticed a neighbor in her yard and told her that my friend was injured. She actually had some crutches and allowed us to cross her property.
I then sat Geo down in front of the neighbors house and walked the rugged beach back to my house and got my truck and went and picked him and his gear up and dropped him off at his place.
The next day I wave sailed some in large and very unique conditions with out penalty. It was fun in a strange sort of way.
BTW: The doctor said Geo won't have to have surgery but he will need to rest and rehab the knee before wave sailing again.
After that day the swell diapered completely and I put all my attention to the work project that I have going.
Thanksgiving morning delivered a sweet head to head and a half swell.
I had a wonderful glassy surf session in my back yard!
I got one really sweet wave!
I got creamed on another one!
I missed a bunch because I was sitting a bit too far out.
There were only three of us in the line up.
It was me and a guy from Denmark and the other was from Brazil.
We saw a shark but he wasn't interested in us at all.
Aloha to everybody on Super Topo!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Olaf
I think I always wanted to surf and still do I think (am/was a windsurfer). I'm not sure if the one and only surfing experience I did have kept me from pursuing surfing or if it's other things that got in the way - like my diving friend at the time that claimed a shark bit the end of his fin off! I had no experience with surfing at all (except bodysurfing of course and windsurfing had not been invented yet in 1971) when my friend Doud Stewart told me it was easy and took me to the LANE in Santa Cruz. I think the waves were pretty big that day - it may have even been winter but I did not have a wetsuit on. I kept struggling, trying to catch a wave and finally the board was washed all the way in to the rocks. I recall there being a bit of a break in the waves, but just as I got to the board a wave hit me and tossed me halfway up the rocks to the parking lot and the board landed in the parking lot! I had a nice gash on my right hip and probably still have THAT scar. It was pretty funny in a way since when I landed I was facing the ocean and all spread out like a starfish. That was the last time I went surfing.
Apropos O-Man's Thanksgiving day posts; do any of you remember the photo from Surfer Magazine mid-'70s of Rory Russell in a remarkably gentle looking Pipeline Tube with the caption something to the effect "Rory Russel passed up Thanksgiving Turkey for this gem". It was a long time ago so I could have gotten pretty much everything wrong, but the memory of the photo and caption, fabricated or not, stuck with me.
If you haven't seen any of Kepa Acero's videos, check them out.
He has traveled the world alone and documented surfs and people.
Always good music and waves.
Here's the first one I ever watched. It is now my go-to watch for inspiration and stoke.
When I feel alone, life seems hard, and the world an inhospitable place, I watch this video.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Stoke is contagious!
Good call, Kath. The people he meets, and the warm welcome he receives speaks volumes about the man he is. A man who enjoys life, in every possible way.
"I will personally give up my spot if Marcio Freire is first alternate and doesn't get in otherwise. He and a few of his friends like yuri and danillo are the reason we are all out there paddling these days. He's been doing it for 5 years now no vest no cameras just straight up stoke and charging. I've had a few great waves out there but nothing compared to his commitment."
Albee Layer
"Marcio Freire is the reason anybody is paddling into Jaws today. He was one of the first mad dogs charging along with Yuri Soledade and Danilo Couto just for the love of it. I remember 4 years ago on Christmas day, there must have been at least 20 tow teams out. Marcio was the only paddler. No floatation, no Rescue Ski. Just determination and Balls bigger than anybody els. I really hope he gets in. Thanks Marcio for encouraging and changing the sport forever!" Matt Meola
There are two survers in O-man's photo above, one about to drop in. So whose wave is it? And why? Obviously, I don't surf and know nothing about surfing. But I've always wondered what is the accepted "rule".
Thanks.
As you face the photo my guess is the guy on your left. Maybe the guy on the right guessed that lefty wasn't gonna make it and was planning a reverse skeg take off?
As you look at the photo the guy on the right side is paddling out. The guy on the left is about to DROP IN!
The rule is that the surfer closest to the peak has priority and every one else has to give him right of way. At least that's the way it's supposed be.
The dreamy glassy head to head and a half surf is over for us hear on the N/S Maui for the projected future. It has been replaced by ridiculously strong trade winds and wind swell. It isn't really good for wind surfing IMO even if I do have the gear.
It was great while it lasted!
It's time to pay attention to work and other things.
surfed hilton beach in tel aviv israel today. it was surprisingly good. up to about head high, off shore winds, and lots of fun. the rental board was a crappy pop out with a foam deck that was way too slippery. still easily got my share of waves. good time. two weeks in israel for biz, never expected to be surfing.
edit: planning on watching the pipe masters ott tonight in my hotel room, if this crappy internet connection can support it.
Does Ke11y Slater retire from the tour and go on a free surfing binge? I'm eagerly awaiting for the series of Ke11y Slater & company surf videos that is just a retirement away. I think September Sessions is just a taste of things to come.
Jefe thanks for posting the North Shore clip.
The film was sorta hokey in some ways but very real in many others.
Gregory Harrison is a fb friend of mine and he was my neighbor when I lived on the Oregon Coast. He was always friendly in the line up at Cape Sebastian. He surfed with us often when he was in town between acting projects.
Jerry Lopez and a very young Laird went a long way towards giving the film creditability.
I've been out of the water for over a week now and I don't feel bad about it at all.
The wind has been super strong and very gusty.
The erratic wind has made the waves really messy.
Some of my gang have been out every day but at this juncture of my life I try to choose my battles wisely. After all I live here and can surf or wave sail any day I want.
My goal is to stay injury free this season if possible.
solid wave train headed for humboldt, lets get this party started, 15@16, SE wind and a 9'6''
head down, paddle with intension surf with aloha for all the children. we are all o'hana
Super cool. I'd like to visit Maui. Is this (near) Windmills?
I just dug up a few old shots.
This is my first custom. 6'3x21x2 1/2 by Midget Smith (RIP).
It was a great board, modeled(dimensions and color) after a sick 70's single fin I'd been riding. It was a Hawaiian Spirit by Gabe Garduque. Anyway, I rode the Midget forever and finally decided to sell it. I paid 230 new and got 250 years later!The glass job ruled. Really cool thing- my bro in Morro Bay sent me a cell photo many years later of a girl with that board. Said she bought it in San Diego and loved it.
Midget was a great guy and a great surfer and shaper. An icon in San Clemente. Miss you buddy.
A couple small punchy (and blurry, sorry) summer days at Park on the RNF.
Super cool. I'd like to visit Maui. Is this (near) Windmills?
jefe, that's a spot over by Lahaina that we call Woody's named after the surf legend Woody Brown. It's my favorite summer west side spot.
You should visit Maui Dude although Oahu is probably a more sure bet for conditions but we do OK.
This is what they say we're getting we get for Christmas:
Hookipa: 5-6+ Hawaiian
North shores – A new large north swell will peaking Saturday…lowering through Sunday into Monday. A northwest swell will arrive Christmas morning, then lower into the middle of the week.
some of the boys surfed cortez bank yesterday and today. can't wait for the photos. looks like the
wave train is rollin. more long period stuff on the way. its where alpine style meets surfing. aloha from the humboldt nation
STATEMENT FROM GREG LONG REGARDING HIS SERIOUS WIPEOUT WHILE SURFING AT THE CORTES BANK ON 12-21-12
Thank you to the entire community of friends, family and well-wishers for your concern, your outpouring of love, support and prayers, following the serious wipeout I experienced while surfing at the Cortes Bank on Friday, December 21st.
I am home, following a 24 hour stay in the UCSD Hospital in San Diego for precautionary observation as a result of the near drowning experience and blunt trauma injuries I suffered from the impact of a sequence of four large waves, and a three wave hold down. I had taken off on the second wave of a four-wave set and was forced to straighten out. After enduring an extremely violent and long hold down, I barely broke the surface and was attempting to grab a breath of air, when I received the full impact of the lip from the third and largest wave of the set. All of my breath was knocked out of me. I nearly lost consciousness at this point and was again driven deep and was subjected to a furious beating. I attempted to swim to the surface as the energy of the wave began to release me, but only made a few strokes before the next wave passed overhead, pushing me back down. As this beating started to subside, I began climbing my leash, hoping to break the surface before passing out. I made it to the tail of my board while it was still submerged in the turbulent and aerated water, at which point I blacked out from CO2 saturation and lack of oxygen.
Three rescue skis operated by D.K. Walsh, Jon Walla and Frank Quiarte were tracking me following the initial wipeout. After a fourth and smaller white water had passed, I was quickly located, floating face down along side my surfboard by D.K. Walsh. D.K. abandoned his ski, jumping in the water in order to raise my head above the surface. Jon Walla arrived on his ski, and together they pulled me onto the rescue sled. I began regaining consciousness during the ride back to the support boat we were operating from. Several other rescuers assisted getting me onboard at which point I began vomiting the small amount of water I had aspirated and a large amount of blood, which I later learned was from a combination of the blunt force trauma of impact and the rupturing of capillaries due to extreme breath holding. I was stabilized onboard the boat by the lifeguards and paramedics who were part of our safety team, and a Coast Guard helicopter was summoned to transport me back to San Diego.
Having trained for extreme breath holding, at no point did I allow myself to panic or lose confidence that I was going to survive this incident. I do, however, fully acknowledge that I did exceed my limits of endurance, and that there will always be elements of risk and danger that are beyond my control while surfing waves of any size. Because of those elements of risk, I have always insisted on working with individuals that share my focus on training and preparation. Humbly, I express my deepest gratitude to the team of rescuers and fellow surfers who’s training and precise response contributed to saving my life.
North shores – A new large northwest swell will arrive early Christmas morning, then lower into the middle of the week…with another arriving Thursday and again during the weekend. The largest surf along the best aligned beaches will reach 9-12 feet Hawaiian 18/24 faces. A High surf warning has been issued!
Here's a note and a great Christmas present from my friend Greg Huglin.
Merry Christmas!
I have a great wife, she tolerated me spending the 24th uploading my images online. Here is the link to my photos from Cortes Bank a few days ago, http://greghuglin.smugmug.com/
They are mostly untuned-up (uncropped, Photoshopped, etc.) and in complete sequences. Perhaps there’s too many, but I expect the surfers would prefer to see the whole wave rather than my selects.
There are galleries of each athlete in alphabetical order by first names:
Aaron Gold, Ben Wilkinson, Chapman Murphey, Danilo Couto, Dave Wassel, Garrett McNamara, Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker, Greg Long, Jamie Mitchell, Jason Murray, Keali’i Mamala, Kohl Christensen, Landon McNamara, Mark Healey, Peter Mel, Shane Dorian, Shawn Alladio, and Shawn Dollar.
Sorry if I didn’t catch your great wave.
I left in the wipeouts and did not include some of the ‘lifestyle shots’.
Some of the images are a little less than perfect but that’s the way it goes.
Please feel free to share this link.
Thanks to everyone involved who made this Cortes adventure happen.
It was great to see old friends and make some new ones.
Many thanks to the surfers who risked everything and put on a great performance.
It was an absolute joy and privilege to be there, thank you everyone.
Cool Surfline feature on some of the biggest waves paddled into (as opposed to being towed into). After clicking on the link, you can skip the add by clicking in upper right corner
That's a Great shot jefe!
Thanks for posting the Surfline article Chris!
I think that Andrew Louis and Rob Brown covered the event eloquently providing not only dynamic action stills and video but also a very human perspective!
We've been covering this monumental surf expedition on Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits upthread 942,950,952. Thanks to my friend Greg Huglin who was out there those days as well.
Many of that crew will be over here on Maui for the Peahi paddle contest which could be as early as next week so the talk on the beach has it.
We have yet another "Warning" level swell predicted for today and yet another even larger for a few days later.
It's game on for some!
I've decided personally that "High Surf Warning" level is just too big for my comfort window. After three back to back incapacitating injuries last season and similar results over the last decade of surfing and wave sailing the north shore in winter. Advisory is one thing but Warning is a whole different beast!
DEC 27, 2012
About this Video
Mark Sponsler, Surf Forecaster for Red Bull Jaws, explains in depth what is needed in order for this event to happen. From studying weather patterns to watching storms form, wave forecasting is a unique science
Light winds and big swells today....paddling is another fun option. RE: the vid shows 6 man can be fun at times but I prefer the oc-1. This morning's paddle was beautiful, great visibility and bath tub like conditions and its a similar peace found in climbing an easy route. A couple weeks ago paddling around Makapuu the swells and wind make it feel more like a challenging route where your senses are tuned in and the outcome is not guaranteed.
Whether on a 55ft sled with the spinacker thrashing, with 5 others paddles in air wootin, on my 1 man with the forward 8 ft submerged, sliding down the face or on my 8'6" leaning into the bottom turn, it's all surfen. As much as I tried to move to Colorado to be in he mountains, there was a point where I realized the incredible outdoor fun that is available in abundance here in the Islands.
Enjoy the vid, not me, team primo getting ready for the Molokai Hoe
Second, Third, and Fourth Point.
I have friends that have hector connectored from the top of Third Point all the way through First, which is out of view on the bottom and a long point on its own.
Something like five minutes of surfing one wave.
Just Second Point alone can provide rides over a minute.
Punta Pequena is amazing.
Second, Third, and Fourth Point.
I have friends that have hector connectored from the top of Third Point all the way through First, which is out of view on the bottom and a long point on its own.
Something like five minutes of surfing one wave.
Just Second Point alone can provide rides over a minute.
Punta Pequena is amazing.
That's the stuff DREAMS are made of!
I had a great session yesterday evening with an all star line up of really cool folks having a great time together! STOKED!
Cool thread and pics! Have not been on Supertopo in some time! Man, I was climbing a ton prior to the end of 2009. After moving back to Cali, just been surfing... 3 to 4 times per week - more when there is swell. Love it. Need to get back on that rock!
Nice!!!
I was just talking to my brother, who lived in Central America forever, that I've wanted to go to El Salvador. All those points look so good.
Care to share more about your travels?
Drljefe we sort of split it between Zuma & County Line
I've been to Jalama once, it was great, I got the crap pounded out of me.
I've only been surfing just under two years.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Well Secos(above) isn't the best if you're not that experienced. It has a very tight and potentially dangerous take off spot. More than a few guys makes it crowded. But there are waves at almost any swell direction and even if it looks flat when you check it, a wave WILL come through and it will be a gem. Probably my favorite wave in malibu.
You might check that Thousand Steps place south of there. Sometimes fun waves. Beginner/outsider friendly and less closeouts than Zuma.
Most of N.LA county is so fickle but when certain spots turn on it can be magic. I've scored some heavy barrels at Thornhill Broom.
Back in the sixties he was practically a god and an ideal personified in surfing, especially after the runaway success film by Freeman/MacGillivray “Free and Easy”. His surfing was particularly graceful and finished. It was remarkable and in its perfection seemed to promise a miracle. He still surfs today of course, but I haven’t seen him. Less known is the story how Laird Hamilton and Billy are connected.
When Laird was just a few years old, he met Billy on a North Shore beach. There is a scene of this, I gather a re-enactment, in the movie, I seem to recall. Laird no longer had a Dad you see. I think it was 1967. Laird’s mom Joann was at home and eventually I gather tiny Laird dragged nineteen year old Billy home to meet Joann, his Mom. The two adults were attracted to each other immediately and soon married; Billy adopted Laird, probably to Laird's everlasting ecstasy. Today Billy is married to a second wife and has a surfing school and a balsawood plantation on Kauai near Hanalei. Hanaleiwatersports.com (perhaps not operating) and Hamiltonsurfboards.com.
Even more interesting is how Laird was born. Joann birthed at University of California San Francisco Medical Center where they used a warm saltwater sphere to suspend her during labor, hoping to ease the pain of childbirth for both the mother and newborn.
o-man, Departure Delayed is more than worthy. Thanks for the clip. So cool to see these once groms forcing the evolution of the sport. Where will it go from here?
I've posted from a day to day view on this but if I think of the content of the OP and try to answer "complimentary"?
The home break where I grew up has changed greatly but the rock I still love to climb has not. There are definite parallels to both pursuits and the one constant is more physical but mentally, now, entirely different.
What once was a sparsely populated stretch of coast when I first started surfing at age 8 with the same characters and pecking orders is now overrun with the aged (trying not to be too judge-mental) trying to fit their corporate lifestyles (because that's what it takes to be able to afford the lifestyle in California now) into what I grew up with. My home brake is now scathing with forty year old beginners changing the rules of the road and my mental status with it. I haven't been able to adapt.
And this is the fundamental difference for me. The mental aspect of it. And though both rock climbing and surfing both share many characteristics (Surf spots have names and so do climbing routes) the rock is still perfect and uncrowded. Where as my home break, which is only occasionally good, is now always crowded, even when windblown and sloppy, I can always drive to the base of Stateley, swim the lake, put my shoes and chalk bag on and climb a perfect piece of rock, on any given day when the suns out,uncrowded on one of my favorite routes, just like when I first started out.
The rock, to me, is almost always perfect and the permanence is what is so different.
The only inherent thing wrong with surfing is "the bizness" lasts only 10 to 180 seconds, usually more like 25 seconds while climbing usually lasts a great deal longer. In this shortness, surfing shares aspects with figure skating, I am afraid.
Thanks O, for the John John video. I'd have to say he is my favorite to watch these days. He seems Honnoldesque even. A new young genius seeker. As Kelly said last year, "John John's going to know the waves on North Shore like no one we've ever seen before".
If asked, I would say the future of the sport is clearly taking those "airs above the ground" and getting them to happen on much larger surf and also continuing the crusade to find even more interesting spots worldwide. So much has been accomplished since the sixties' short board revolution and surfers sure are a bit more community and fellowship-oriented than in the past.
Peter I have to politely & with all do respect disagree. In surfing the ride is the crux. The minute I hit the water I'm climbing, usually for my life. I've been beaten badly and not even made it passed the break. I had several days last winter & this spring that I managed to get out, but was so beat I barely new where I was.
Yes.
Any wave you get, and especially a good one or a barrel, is the essence of impermanence. A rolling band of energy traveling perhaps thousands of miles, and you were there at the right moment to experience it.
It may be the best wave, or the finest experience of your life or just the day, and when you kick out or reach the beach...it is gone. It remains only in your memory, your heartbeat, or the smile on your face.
This is one reason why surfing is so difficult to learn or get good at.
I always think about how it would be to have to drive up to the boulders just to see if they were there at all.
always there
re:johnjohn (classic stinkeye/cracked smile pic)
I think what we're seeing in guys like him is the same progression we're seeing in climbing with the new genereation.
He grew up with not only modern heavy wave chargers as his mentors and idols but with airs and progressive surfing as the norm. He was learning how to get pitted and bust airs at a very early age. Location, of course had much to do with that, as well as freakish natural talent.
Young climbers these days learn, or at least start climbing on stuff that was pro level not to long ago, with modern hard climbers as their idols.
The whole continuum thing, as well as the history of progression in both pursuits, is something I love thinking about.
Surfing and climbing....the best life.
Greg Noll is the sh#t. Read his Biography a while back, really enjoyed reading it. Have you had a chance to check it out.
Another great book is by Mike Doyle called " Morning Glass"
I have surfed spots out on the peninsula. Sharky.
We may have talked about it here before, but after surfing a few days (really fun days) on 17 mile drive I researched the spots I had scored.
On the scale of sharkyness it rated a 10: bring your own iron cage.
A local had been taken years ago and bite marks in his board and body indicated an 18-20 foot White Shark.
Mature Whites were said to regularly cruise the bay, the bay I happened to have a mindblowing evening session at. Perfectly clear water, backlit green perfection.
The occasional big bulb of bull kelp would surface and hit the underside of my board. That was a bit unnerving, but I tried not to think about sharks, which was easy because the waves were so good.
But waiting out there on the reef, with that crystal clear, dark water, I imagined it, just for a second, the sight of one of those fearsome creatures breaching the surface with all those teeth...
Then another wave would come.
Thankfully, my friend didn't tell me about the attack until after the session.
It's a whole different experience up there, the ocean is alive and wild and beautiful. And scary.
How's this swell coming later this week? Potential Eddie. 12@25sec let's hope the ocean
Cooperates and brings clean big surf from hanalei to big flat. Mahalo o'hana
Surf along north facing shores will be 10 to 15 feet through Wednesday.
Outlook through Monday Jan 21: Northwest swell will maintain advisory level surf along north facing shores through Wednesday. A powerful long-period northwest swell will build Thursday, peak Friday, and gradually diminish late in the weekend. Peak surf heights with this swell will reach warning levels along north and west facing shores.
surf was ureal sunday, double overhead/glassy, perfect weather, only down side was the very long period, which meant long lulls which didn't help with the crowd..... yes I do have photos :)
it's been off the hook up here past few days. i went for a run up and down ob yesterday around sunset and there were many professional camera and film people out. all eyes on the water. saw someones board in half on the ground.
i went out this afternoon and the bigger pulses around kelly's were still close to 10 foot. i took one in the face and had a ringing in my ears that lasted for a while after. good times!
We just had arguably one of the best stretches of big swell at SF Ocean Beach ever ( and NorCal in general). This surfline thread sums it up pretty perfectly.
(after 8 seconds click in the upper right corner to end ad)
I was fairly surprised i didnt break a leash or board... but i did get the worst neck crunching whip-lash of my life. And this pro actually broke his neck and barely survived... i immediately purchased a wakeboarding vest.
The Day this photo was shot was one of best swells of the year it just keep pump-in all day. And I missed it! Center Island point super cool bowl shaped reef break. The surf here has been off the flippen hook as of late. Today’s surf report looks pretty good so I’m on that shit!
Sloat was off scale high all day Sunday and most of Monday. I didn't have the balls to get my feet wet. Kudos to anyone that paddled out and dropped in. Your rides were spectacular from the beach. As Dirty Harry said, "a man has to know his limitations".
I think bouldering is a lot more like surfing than other kinds of climbing.
You wait your turn, you hoot, you push it, and it's over quickly. Like a beachbreak.
I keep reposting the same shots I have of State Park because I have such a precious few,
considering how much I surfed there.
Fleeting, just like the spot itself.
When it was on, it was on, and I feel fortunate to have lived so close that I was able to catch those tiny windows.
Long term santa cruze surfer banny root.
Give him a root hoot!
He has been getting out but not as much.
Also say's concrete jungle is causing him to melt down.
that must have been what i saw them filming a couple weeks back during the maverick's contest weekend. f'king sick. not only do you get pounded but the paddle out is impossible and the current is insane. you burn out just trying to stay in position.
Nice jefe , love the honolua footage, always wanted to surf there, probably pretty hard to get one, lots of burning if your not local I suspect. what a beautiful wave. OB ,insane , you better be fit! cheers
ESU, you're killing me bro.
Can't wait. Let's do it.
My bro had a little "episode" out there recently.
Strong easterly winds were blowing water up and over the side rail of the boat, causing them to take on water faster than the bulge could pump it. They lost power around 9:30 and were unable to get the boat started again.
Mayday call to LACG, they deployed SBCG.
The SS Hanta Virus almost got blown out into the SB Channel!
sounnds heavy Jefe. I've towed a couple of boats that were dead in the water myself. East winds and down canyon winds out of Gaviota can be bad. I had a "episode" myself when anchored off Gaviota (out of the wind I thought) heavy down canyon winds combined with not enough scope on my anchor line caused my boat to slip it's mooring and get blown out into the channel. I called the coast guard but since no one was on board, they said there was nothing they would do. the boat drifted 20 miles toward Santa Rosa, when it was spotted by a crew boat servicing the oil rigs two days later. They gave me the coordinates and I contacted vessel assist and they ran out and found it. A grand later I had my rig back without a scratch. Consisdering the value of all the boards, suits, ect. on board I was lucky. Also was lucky some urcin divers didn't find it first since it would be considered salvage and "finders keepers". Important lesson, make sure you have enough chain on your anchor line.
Look at the corduroy, talk about beatings!!!
Huge and holding!!!
My spot. One of the best kept secrets of the surfing world, right in the middle of a big city. Or maybe it's not such a secret. I really enjoy the juxtaposition of the urban with wild, uncontrolled nature.
just to clarify, Trav was not my actual brother, but a close friend and partner on many surf trips.
I took him under my wing when he was struggling with opiate addiction.
He went from riding for Takayama and winning contests to sleeping in the bathroom at Salt Creek and eventually overdosing.
He was my favorite surfer.
jefe, Thanks for sharing your bro Travis with us and I am sorry to here about such a great energy going down like that.
Pyro, I've never really considered strapping one of those go pros on.
It might be a cool thing to do. Some of my friends have put together some great clips with them.
I have missed some sessions lately due to work but that should be changing down the road.
Cheers
frumy how's the dope smoking over there in alabama?
went out on wednesday and cought a few nice rides.
conditions might be good depending if the santa anna's/monday rain.
O-man u gotta embrace the go-pro magic ur pictures are so nice. i was just hoping u would take us with you!
p.s briham89 did u check out the video i posted on the prow thread. my only complaint is the top-out pitch hauling from a tree kinda crap!
The great Kelly Slater wins another: Quicksilver Pro Gold Coast a few minutes ago. He is 41 now and been World Champion eleven times so far, a huge record. A great genius in his art by all accounts. Cool as hell too.
edit: regarding the Cortez Bank/opening wave, that place has some San Diego history behind it going back to the late 60's, early 70's before the harvesting of abalone (deep sea/400+ feet) was halted ('72). The CB was ripe with ab, but two of the local divers were eaten by Great Whites. Evidently there is a large seal population that mate there (or use to) which attracted GW's! I was offered a job as a diver in the Spring of '69. Good bucks for a short season (3-4 months), but hard and dangerous work. $45-$50K for 3-4 months work. That was when your entry level salary for 12 months as a fireman/firefighter, police dept, etc was around $7-9K a year. Everyone new about the huge surf at CB, but also new about the huge GW's, though.
Growing up by the coast (Costa Mesa), I always feel like I missed out on the whole surfing thing. My friends all started in 2nd or 3rd grade and for some reason I never did. By 8th grade, they were the hot sh#t surfers. They also became really bad students, smoked pot, cut class, etc., which was pretty much of the opposite of me and the kind of circles my folks would have let me run with. Oh well...Plus, by that time I had found climbing, so it was all over.
At this stage of my life, still living near the coast, it would be WAY easier to surf than climb on any given day.
Taking my 7yo. daughter Olive up to Pismo ( for her first paddle ) this weekend from Josh.
To sea her Grandma on Mothers day. Anyone up there with a couple of Sticks
To borrow?
Cheers!
o-man what's ur favorite spot over there on the south side of the island?
pyro, my personal favorite spot for south swell is "Lone Tree" aka "Woody's"
Over the years it has delivered quite well for me.
It has a left with a channel back out, and a right that has two great sections.
It can be quite shallow at the end if you take that last sweet hit. You definitely don't want to put your feet down if you can help it.
Woody's has a sketchy launch in that there is only one safe channel with out sea urchins and its rocky.
Woody's is only good up to a little over head or eight foot faces then it starts to close out although the reform is quite rideable and often you just have to sit outside and wait for the smaller waves of the sets.
I have been surfing there quite allot this summer and I have had some of the best sessions that I can remember.
Often I have long sessions with only one to four people out and I usually know them.
Several weeks back we had the best and longest south episode that I have had in the 13 years I have been here and many of the veterans swear it was the 30 year swell.Talk about surfed out!
That was followed by a late season N/W that delivered some great surfing and epic wave sailing right here in my back yard.
Last week it was back over to the wast side for yet another advisory level south swell.
olaf i'm glad u post surf pic's.
the first picture is me riding on the wall at my favorite spot county aka "clowny line".
second picture is my favorite spot finally hitting very we'll..
greg i'm hurting too! nice weekend from north l.a..
I'm from Goleta, next to Santa Barbara, so grew up surfing waves between County Line and Jalama. Up here in the Bay Area, I'm an Ocean Beach guy, and I make forays toward Santa Cruz when OB gets too huge for me to handle.
For nearly five decades filmmakers have tried to capture the essence of surfing.
Only a few of hundreds of films - "The Endless Summer" in 1966, "Five Summer Stories" in 1972, "Riding Giants" in 2004 and "Surfwise" in 2007 - have hit the mark.
Add "Uncharted Waters" - a 90-minute documentary of Wayne Lynch, Australia's golden child of surfing - to the list.
Good lad, great attitude and oh what a shame Papa Dennis is on longer with us to share the joy of seeing his "kid" gracefully move upward in the world.
Our current Nat Young was of course named in honor of the the great Aussie Nat Young of the sixties. And his side kick creative luminary, Wayne Lynch, great to see some footage on him and how it developed later. These two guys were absolutely huge in the late sixties. HUGE. And then time went on. It was part of the Short Board Revolution too.
up in index watching the bali pro, soo good. while climbing is a magic pursuit, I would take those waves 19 out of 20 days over climbing. p.s. nat is in the groove.
Living at the ocean and near a good reefbreak, surfing is what I do for fun when not on climbing trips. And with this weekend's heatwave, surfing overhead waves at my local break with only a few guys out (and air temp in low 80s) is sweet.
Now, if only it wasn't 4+hrs of driving to get to the Sierras!
Cool to see all the SC guys on this thread. I get my boards shaped by Bob Pearson. :-)
o.b. (san diego) was our local stomping grounds as youth. but, we came very close to losing this wave in '69/'70. a wave that we had surfed on a daily/weekly basis (along with the cliffs).
in '69 OB town council got the go ahead for their long awaited plans to build another jetty 250-300 yards south of north jetty and then dredge the whole beach in between the two jetty's to create a much publicized boat marina. the result was what is now known as middle jetty, which is blocks long before it stops at the waters edge. we fought like hell, tooth and nail, to stop it. resorted to monkey wrenching the huge dosers, etc (long before EA wrote the book). it was war. demonstrating, blocking progress, getting arrested, etc for well over a year before it all finally ground to a halt at the waters edge. we were very determined to do whatever it took. the exact same thing (boat marina was built at the cost of a classic surf spot) had just happened at dana point/'killer dana', a super good point break that i last surfed in the spring of '68...then poof and it was no more.
the result, which was eventually blocked off to vehicle access and is known as dog beach, is what we have now. one of the two best lineups on the west coast/mainland, in my and many surfers opinion. (and the other one is just down the road).
anyway, this wave/beach still means a lot to me, so i thought that i would share that tidbit with ya'll!
a little further along where the outside peak connects with the inside sandbar/beach break, walls up and becomes a fast, full-on pumping down the line barrel for another 75+ yards...
Killer Dana (RIP) on a small day, bitd...
KD would hold a 20+ NW swell with perfect shape...sigh!
Kinneloa rulez, brah ("this ain't no weenie roast")!
edit: use to boulder with him at the Santee boulder's in the 80's. He named a boulder problem the "Purple Iguana". An .12 face route that I got the SA of that was a great problem, but probably long forgotten. I had the same t-shirt, but its long gone. Still have one of his chalk-bags. Wonder what happened to him? Last I heard, he moved to ColoRadzo in the late 80's.
btw, Surf & Stone, to the bone, brah!
edit: Brandon - you should move here to San Diego/OB. you cud surf 300+ days a year while yer dogs run around on the beach. you would be a pro in no time at all.
Was at OB (Judah) this morning with a friend and had a nice great white swam by, probably 20' away. We had only been out an hour, I wanted to be out longer :(
I was out a couple of days ago in the evening sitting up on the board waiting for a wave when just in front of me this huge gaping mouth full of sharp pointy teeth comes out of the water in the general direction of my face. I just about crapped myself in the half second it took to realize it was a sea lion with a head the size of a cow's coming up for air.
I've seen my share of dolphins in the bay/ ocean growing up here...definitely didn't look like any dolphin I've ever seen. Had a delta shape with no curve on the trailing edge.
I was out a couple of days ago in the evening sitting up on the board waiting for a wave when just in front of me this huge gaping mouth full of sharp pointy teeth comes out of the water in the general direction of my face. I just about crapped myself in the half second it took to realize it was a sea lion with a head the size of a cow's coming up for air.
Oh man - I laughed out loud...
Out there in the deep space of the ocean of the red triangle... there are lot of spooky thoughts (and creatures) that can creep up on you.
those gulf pics look fun. you ever go out and surf the wakes of the tanker ships? i'd do it if i lived there.
i was out around judah last week sitting there waiting for a bomb and two dolphins (or porpoises?) jumped fully out of the water literally right beside me. like two feet to my right. scared the sh#t out of me at first until i turned and realized they were mammals. then it was all cool. the conditions at ob haven't been too great lately but i have been out a bunch and there have been an abnormally higher amount of dolphins and porpoises around. they seem to like me. they always come real close.
Great primer on 3D technology and all the inventing they had to do to make this movie ... Storm Surfers 3D as seen on ABC Catalyst http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjOXDJ4mYvg
For all the OB surfers: best NorCal Beach Break Barrel Video ever? Hoping this year will be as good as last. (But happy if almost as good). http://vimeo.com/58345611
Enjoyed seeing the shots of Deadman's. Surfed it a lot in the late 70's early 80's. Not surprised to see a crowd in the picture. Chuck Clance was a GGNRA lifeguard at the time. The name came not from the break but from the bodies that washed in there from bridge jumpers. Clance did the fishing out. Pee Wee {Bill Bergerson} was King in those days. Tim Pierce was KB power.
Thankfully, our waves here in Santa Cruz are pretty clean. These photos of me were taken by young photographer Jaiden Hopkins a few weeks ago at 26th ave.
Klimmer this is a rebirth of the Aquajet project from the late sixties-early seventies. Some of those epoxy-honeycomb boards actually had propulsion, considered repugnant forty-three years ago. Exact means of propulsion is way updated here of course.
I had a series of hollow unpowered Aquajets; founder/owner Neal Townsend was giving me boards for awhile. Before leashes, the boards still broke up on the rocks here in Santa Cruz though guaranteed not to.... But great really lively springy boards. FAST. I won't ever forget how powerful and alive they were. Old Neal and similar cohorts had the earliest powered model but still didn't get much done.
Croteau. Fowler, Roger Adams, a couple others; a SF and Santa Cruz thing
But it seems as though they've really worked out the idea here in a nice very stream line way. You can take the motor pod out and clip in a hollow pod while your motor pod is charging on the beach, and surf regular without a motor. Then go back in clip in the motor pod and get going again.
By the way, the same motor pod fits into all the different surfboards, so you can have a quiver of boards and perhaps one or 2 motors and do a great deal of surfing. They have a charging unit for it also that you can take to the beach.
Anyway, very cool. A friend who has hurt shoulders who surfs is looking into getting one of these boards. He was the one who told me about it. :-)
Yeah, K. I expect THIS time, the conjecture will be more successful though and many will see fun uses and those of us with various challenges (viz handicaps) will like the idea.
Just like if you and I were to introduce cams in 1952, with their 20-some-odd moving parts---- we would have been viewed as kooks and history just wasn't ready for all that such a device could offer. But today, we have many manufacturers vying for cam dollars worldwide. Hilarious how history rolls along.
Question about paddling. My fun board is 21 and some inches in width but being a lanky dude my shoulders are only about 18" across. Paddling it is pretty easy but leaves my shoulder feeling worked. Feels better (but a bit slower) to paddle my little potato chip short board (6'x18.5"x1 5/8" got it for free).
The shoulder beat down going to subside eventually or is it just going to be a pain for me to paddle with that width? To give a sense of upper body strength I can toprope 5.11's some 5.12's.
Nomad, I've noticed that it's getting the big boards going from a stand still that wears me out. If I focus on rocking the board back and then jetting forward on it to get going I save my arms in the long run.
NorCal, sounds like your fun board is not really a fun board. If it works your shoulders and I can see why a wide board can do this to narrow-built people, then stay away from such wide designs unless you hardly ever surf. That repetition from paddling could come back to bite you.. Find a compromise.
Yeah would like to get a more forgiving short board/ fish, but it's just not in the cards financially for a while... Sure would be easier than taking the 7' fun on muni.
Gearing up for a month of surfing Cali in November. I can't wait!!!!!! Camper is ready, reservations made in a few places. Now, I just have to hope the waves cooperate.
Have fun out there this fall and winter folks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man I'm excited.......
We are all looking forward to a great November as well.
There have been waves every day here in my back yard at Kuau and it has been fun but I have been blessed with some great work on a horse ranch in lower Kula so I'm been selective about the day I take off. I'm socking away the cash for when the real stuff happens!
Cheers, Olaf
At 9 minutes 55 seconds on the Uluwatu video you can see a cliffband. Can anyone who's been there comment on the climbing potential? The upper tier looks interesting.
drljefe...that's my home break (and other stuff in that big bay) and I had that as my wallpaper for awhile. Doesn't look like that too often but when it does...
I just got out of the water after brilliant windless session here in my back yard at Kuau.
Since my last post things around here have turned around!
We were blessed with the first significant swell of the season.
The first day it was just too big for me in my back yard so I went to Kanaha where it was much smaller but it had a fresh onshore breeze that turned those delightful waves into a sloppy mess so I didn't paddle out.
The next day it was still too big at Kuau, so, I went back to Kanaha and scored a glassy over head session with out too many people in the line up. I was only snaked once and that was by a friend.
After that day the size dropped at my place and we have had a wonderful windless period with over head waves.
The wind came back for two days but the mornings were still over head in the sets and glassy.
Here's a few images I took after yesterdays morning session.
Check this footage of Jamie Mitchell at Peahi last January.
This was captured by my friend Greg Huglin who scored a spot on a boat sitting in the channel.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Aloha O-man and all who paddle,
I came across this thread on oc paddler as a tribute to the late Maui man Rick Nuu. There is a foto of him paddling at peahi in an oc1. That's pretty wild, know anything about that ?
Aloha Nohea, That is a fine tribute to a great man!
Although I didn't know Rick personally, I am sure that our paths have crossed many times on the waves of Maui. My best wishes to his family and extended ohana!
"At 9 minutes 55 seconds on the Uluwatu video you can see a cliffband. Can anyone who's been there comment on the climbing potential? The upper tier looks interesting."
Been there.
Lots of potential though the quality I think is fairly suspect. Volcanic in nature with super sharp edges that is often breakable and that particular spot may be off limits as there is a temple in the vicinity.
And yes the trash on that side of the island especially in the water is seriously messed up as in their garbage problem in general for the whole island.
Wave season is off to a ripping start here on the north shore of Maui.
We have been literally invaded with wave sailing enthusiasts from every point of the globe. Many are here to compete in the "Aloha Classic" and the rest just be a part of the biggest wave sailing event in history.
The event has taken over Hookipa Beach Park(the birth place of wave sailing)for over two weeks.
With Hookipa dominated by the contest anyone that wants to sail waves has to find another place to sail. The first choice for an alternative spot to sail is my back yard here in Kuau. My home break has been packed with foreign sailors.
I knew this was going to happen so I have been surfing at Noriega's early in the day before the wind comes up and then going down to Hookipa and shooting photos of the action for an article in Maui Ocean Sports Magazine.
My article will be coming out after the event is over.
Check out this link for a detailed account of yesterdays wave sailing action. http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=d1a4e4eef8cd7953c762687fc&id=dedd19bda4
RIP Buttons. The guy was 2 years younger than me but inspired the hell out of me...him, Larry Bertlemann and Mark Liddel for sure. But Buttons fluid, relaxed style... I mean the guy would switchfoot in the middle of anything and make it look easy...and stylish....while doing complicated maneuvers is what caught my attention. Then again after he got his life back together again, the guy was friggen ripped; ANOTHER inspiration from him...this time to get my ass in gear and back in some kind of shape. A real talent even in his 50's. Him and Bertlemann were just way ahead of their time.
Drljefe, somehow I missed his passing this past Saturday. Thanks for posting it up
SocialC, that was not originally Adventure Journal but Trans World Surf, issue June 2013. A non-pro surfer in Tasmania at a secret spot, one of those awful slabs like Shipstern's that break over rocks.
Ahhh, I dream of a dry-hair paddle out to glassy shoulder high peelers. Rights and lefts, no leash making decisions sound, confident. The static smell off the wave, the spring of the board under my bare feet... 6' fish or 10' log, I loved every minute.
Sigh...
Yesterday the whole north shore was closed out so I drove out to Peahi aka Jaws and shot a few photos from the bluff. Most of the local big wave paddle in crew was out. Shane Dorian and Kai Lenny were the only two that I recognized since I spaced out my binoculars. This was arguably the heaviest day paddled in at Jaws so far! Click on for more of the action I captured of that epic session.
Yes Willougby, It was an epic day and Sofie captured it brilliantly!
It was awesome to sit on the bluff and photograph those same waves!
For more photos of (11-12-13 Jaws) go to my blog
Recently the best pro and amateur wave sailors in the world gathered at Hookipa Beach Park to compete in the Aloha Classic wave sailing competition. The competition was extremely heavy day after day.
I was invited to compete in the Grand Masters division but that’s just not my game these days.
Instead I set up my camera and tripod on the bluff above all the action.
I wound up with so many awesome images that I am overwhelmed by the sheer volume of the file.
I belong to a group called “The Kuau Yacht Club”. The K.Y.C. is an informal group of sailors that surf and wave sail together almost every day that the conditions are favorable.
We had several of our members competing in the Aloha Classic so I decided to show case my friends from the K.Y.C.
Here are a few select images that I captured of my mates shredding it up in the competition.
For more of my photos of the KYC at the 2013 Aloha Classic chick here
Here's a Book that I just got done working on with Tom Adler of T Adler Books in Santa Barbra, should be in stores the end of the year . DFhttp://www.artbook.com/9781938922268.html
Psyched to check out that surfing and climbing book.
Had a fine go-out at Ocean Beach yesterday. Sunny, glassy, overhead, and consistent. One of those days that makes me wonder why I ever bothered to tie a knot.
Psyched to check out that surfing and climbing book.
I'm stoked to see it as well Gregory.
A new swell arrived yesterday and every one I talked to had great sessions.
I was going to paddle out in my back yard but instead I chose to join some friends down the beach at Kanaha.
Lower Kanaha was well over head in the sets and it was really good.
I struggled with the fact that almost every wave that I paddled for there was already a large man on a SUP powering down the line.
Don't get me wrong I did get some great waves and it was fun surfing with friends but, It just aint like the old days at Kanaha before SUP's!
Maybe I should have stayed home and surfed here at Kuau. It wasn't crowded at all and there were plenty of head to nearly double over head sets rolling through.
I did a photo shoot here in Kuau before going down to Kanaha. Here's a random shot from that photo session.
EDIT: go to this link for more of my surfing images at Lanes 11-29-13
O-man, when you refer to Kuau, is it the break right out in front of Mama's? Or more west down the coast? Mama's can get kind of gnarly, I've sailed in on big days when it was almost sucking dry on a low tide at the shallowest spot.
O-man, when you refer to Kuau, is it the break right out in front of Mama's?
Studly that's a good question.
When I refer to Kuau it is more of a general area that stretches from Lanes through Sunrises,Kuau Pipe,Mommas,the area in front of the launch, down to Noriega. The shots I took on 11-29 were at Lanes.
As you mentioned, the break at Kuau Pipe/ Mommas can be extremely shallow at certain tides.Some times it feels like you can almost touch the reef just siting on your board or sailing over it.I have hit the bottom there in a wipe out. In fact just the other day my friend Chris Eubank had some gnarly abrasions on his back from that place.
I have known Dave Kalama for well over a decade and he has done a lot, a real lot. He has been a professional surfer for most of his life. Short board,long board,tow in,and S.U.P.
When Dave talks, I listen.
If you know Dave Kalama, then you must know Haas and Digger, brothers. Haas used to hit the dawn patrol with Kalama regularly, they'd be out there tearing up Hookipa dawn patrol every morning if there was a whisper of wind.
I had a great session three days back at Mommas with my neighbor Debbie Brown.
It was an extremely low tide with shoulder to head high waves in the sets. The take offs were pretty steep and I was on a longboard so I didn't make several of the drops.
Like we discussed upthread it's very shallow at Mommas on a low tide so I hit bottom a few times with out much damage other than a scratch on my toe.
There wasn't a breath of wind until right at the end.
It wasn't epic by any means just fun surfing with a friend.
Some how I strained my right arm in that session and it got real stiff and painful.
We had a sweet new swell arrive here on the north shore yesterday but I had to take it off and rest my arm but today it feels better and the swell is still here.I think I'll give it a go as soon as I post this.
I took a few photos when I went by Hookipa yesterday. All I had was the little Olympus and it doesn't reach out very far so quality isn't very good but I thought I would share a few of them anyway.
After my last post we've had a delightful and rather large wave event here on the north shore of Maui.
I've been plagued with a very sore right arm so I have had to rest a day and surf a day. I am hoping this gets better soon but I'm not counting on it.
I have had to sit out some excellent sessions but scored some as well.
Yesterday was all time wave sailing here at Kuau but my arm was sore from my session at Kanaha the day before.
I didn't want to risk further injury especially in light air and mast high conditions.
It was really good at Kanaha the day before yesterday but I had to sit that one out also.
An interesting thing happened at Kanaha that day that I didn't paddle out.
An S.U.P. surfer fell off his board in the busy line up and literally
landed on a 13' tiger shark.
I was told by someone that was there that the spooked shark made quite a commotion before swimming away.
No one was bitten but the line up cleared out real fast.
I did paddle out at Kanaha the next day and most of the usual suspects were back out in the line up.
So, although it's on everyone's mind, (and no one in their right mind is taking it lightly) but we're not going to let this keep us from getting a session.
(I don't know how much mainland media attention this is getting, but, here on Maui we have had shark encounters every week for quite some time now and just last week a dude from Stevenson,WA. was kayak fishing. He was dangling his feet in the water and a shark bit his leg bit and he bled to death.)
Well it's sunny the water is clear and warm, the trades are up and there is still some good swell.
So it's game on again today and my arm feels rested.
I'm hoping to go wave sailing in my back yard later.
I shot this photo at "Lanes" the other day.
To view more photos of Lanes that I shot that day click here.
The shark thing in Hawaii is scarey. My girlfriend is close to a family on The Big Island and one of their sons was munched recently at his home break. He's a big kid and beat the shark off and was aided by another surfer who swam back out to help.
Olaf, do you know or know of Ulu Boy Napeahi? Glad he made it!
O-man; thanks for posting your own photos. Likewise all of you that post your own photos (pyro, drljefe). Esparza, was that beautiful photo from the Mentawais your own? Awesome.
The great and legendary surfer from the Sixties and early Seventies, Wayne Lynch, has an online video about rescuing a friend in Australia while a very large GW shark was spy-hopping and circling around the two men as they slowly returned to shore on one board. Really worth digging up online. Probably the worse tale I have heard/read/seen regarding a GW shark incident where no one actually was attacked!
Rumor on the beach is we have a GIANT swell heading our way and should hit our beaches on Saturday.
If this forecast is correct 'The Eddie' big wave contest at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu will probably go off this year.
I am proud of my neighbor Kai Lenny for being chosen as an alternate in this prestigious event
I wrote this in a journal while back and thought I would share it.
The ocean has been in a unique mood.
Friday morning I addressed work things for a while and then I did my morning surf check and found glassy well over head waves in my back yard. When I paddled out at about 8:00 am there were a few standup guys already out but it wasn’t crowded. There was one dude that stood in the same line as me and just paddled for every wave. He was tall and very fit looking but he just kept missing waves that I could have caught.
I finally had to tell him that if he was going to paddle for waves he should make a point of getting them.
He was so close to my line that if I got a wave that he had already initiated and we both got it, I felt that we would be too close for safety.
I was still getting some great waves and the swell getting bigger and bigger.
After about an hour I was joined by my buddy Mark.
After two hours the waves were in the solid double overhead range and all the stand up guys had gone in except my buddy Mickey Eskimo.
With just the three of us out we cloud be selective and avoid the real bombs.
We had our pick of the sweet head and a half nuggets.
After three hours we had scored a bunch of waves and the sets were starting to get erratic and the frequency and size were impossible to calculate.
On one set, Mark took off on the first wave and I took the second. His held up all the way to the right channel while mine closed out after I made the drop and got one turn resulting in me being in a very bad place.
This set was one of the biggest of the session.
Mark got to see me take the next eight waves square on the head. All I could do is just take a breath and dive for the bottom and hope that my board made it.
We both agreed that we should paddle in soon but things settled down some and we kept getting waves and the wind was only just starting to pick up.
Most of the waves were silky smooth after the first wave of the set came through.
We paddled in after four solid hours and we were STOKED!
I walked back home and took an hour break and had lunch.
I was contemplating a second session but when I walked back over to the beach the waves had gotten a lot bigger and the sets were even more erratic. I’m talking ten foot Hawaiian that’s twenty foot plus faces and that just too big for me to paddle into.
The next day I checked the surf at my local break and it was just too big.
No one was out and except one team that was towing in at Noriega’s, my local break.
I loaded my board in the back of my truck and drove to Kanaha Beach Park where the scene was much mellower.
So I thought.
Kanaha breaks about a quarter mile off shore so it can be hard to judge the size from the beach even with binoculars.
I did notice that the left channel was occasionally closing out and that told me to use caution.
When I arrived at the line up every one had a sober look about them. I went about the business of surfing.
I wasn’t having much luck.
Then I saw this set out on the horizon and I started paddling out as fast and far as I could but it just wasn’t far enough. I made it over the first wave but the second was bigger I was paddling up a gigantic dead vertical wall water and as I got to the lip it broke!
I went over the falls and the force drove me straight to the reef. When I made it back to the surface by board was snapped but was still held together by the glass in top.
I took two more waves on the head and the pounding subsided. With razor sharp fiber glass still holding the two pieces together I made the long paddle back in.
I drove back home and got another board and drove back to Kanaha and paddled back out.
By the time I got back to the line up there were only three other surfers out and they were being very cautious.
I caught some really sweet left hander’s that were in the double over head size and realistically that was the limit of my comfort zone. The only problem was that in order to get those I had to sit a bit deeper than I wanted.
Three of those a major sets rolled through and pounded the living s..t out of me.
I didn’t feel like snapping another board that day so I paddled in and called it a day.
Pipe has come up from around 3 ft to something more than ten in just the last hour and a half. Well worth watching right now as darkness slowly grows out there.
It's 6:45 pm PT. Friday evening.
The Billabong Pipe Masters will resume tomorrow there and it will be quite a bit different than it was for Rd 5 a few days ago….
A quote from my friend Giampollo Cammarota
"Kelly Slater alluding to the clearly overscored wave of Mick Fanning: "that pissed me off just enough to keep me going next year"...
Well, thank god for that! 'Cause god knows how much more fun is to watch you surfing than anybody else in the world!!!!
If Fanning didn't get that nice Christmas present from the very shaky judges, I would be probably commentating about Kelly's retirement...
Uff, I feel like we all scored big time yesterday at Pipe!"
I must admit that I didn't watch this contest live.
I checked the the ocean out yesterday morning and it was big, but not real big.
It was big enough that (to me) it was clear that I wasn't going surfing so I chilled at home and had breakfast and did chores.
I drove out to Jaws later in the morning.
The paddle in action started early.
I missed most of it because the wind was already on it and those guys had mostly all gone in.
I did catch some tow and kite guys.
After Jaws I stopped off at Hookipa.
There were only four guys out at Middles and they were killing it!
After Hookipa, I moved down to Lanes and caught some of that action also.
you were busy Oman, as well you should be. You can always watch the contest online later after you've had your waves.
I was scandalized too by Mick's crucial wave score. It just wasn't there. Fanning is a great surfer though and a very good man from what I can tell so far removed. Friend to thousands, for sure. But he is not the astounding genius of all time that KS and JJF are, not by a long shot. Those contests and the judging of them better keep their noses clean or I should say cleaner, as we go forward. I have seen 'gimme points' for quite some time now. We see them in Dressage too, ice skating etc. It gets ridiculous and so transparent. Thank God Kelly is willing to point his finger (The Emperor Has No Clothes, would be the tale to cite here, except KS is not a child but a aging master like no other). It does nothing but help the sport and art to confront this kind of discouraging corruption, especially as surfing enters its new phase next year of approaching the general public.
Kelly gets overscored all the time.
I think because of all the hype and buildup for the title race ending at Pipe, there was extra scrutiny.
Mick's waves were sick. Was he overscored, maybe.
I was rooting for Kelly for sure but the way Mick's waves came in the dying moments of his heats, the fact that they were macking and absolutely perfect, and he rode them perfectly- he deserved those heat wins.
If the title weren't at stake and slates in the running, no one would be questioning those calls but CJ and Yadin and their mates.
The final was weird- no waves for 20 minutes. Kelly's airdrop was f*#king mental and was a contest winner, but then JJF's Backdoor tube in the final minute...talk about underscored!
Oh well. What was cool was that everyone won. Mick gets the title, JJF gets the Triple Crown, and Slates gets his 7th Pipe Masters! He got all misty and even cried a little afterward saying it was one of the best days of his life and a dream come true to surf with John John in the finals at Pipe.
Awesome.
Do yourself a favor and put this one on full screen and turn the volume UP!
The scene with the helicopter is Kai Lenny getting air lifted out with a bad gash in his foot.
My buddy Jake Miller shot the stuff from the cliff.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Thanks Wade Icey!
This thread is a group effort and I am just proud to get to contribute on the surfing side of it. I don't get to do much rock climbing these days.
I have only done three routes in the last year.
I do live in a place that I can walk to great waves so surfing is all I have to contribute these days.
After I posted that Jaws video this morning, I went and checked out the waves my back yard.
The waves had dropped down to head to head/head and a half with occasional sets approaching close to double over head.
There was absolutely no wind so it perfectly glassy.
The water was the clearest that I can remember. Not only could you vividly see the reef but whole schools of fish as well. It was almost spooky it was so clear.
I shared these conditions with three guys on SUP's. They were veteran surfers and the vibe was as good as it gets.
I got some great right's and left's with only getting worked by one set.
I had to go in after two and a half hours of paddling due to my right arm issue.
I'm icing it now and I am sure that I will feel it tomorrow but it was soo worth it!
BTW:I heard from Kai and it sounds like that cut he got at Jaws might not be as bad as we feared.
Game On!
Some people do both, most don't....the skill set is different, the setting more so. The psychological motivations are maybe closer. Complimentary is probably not the right term but they are not mutually exclusive.
After paddling all winter I feel like climbing opens up my muscles and stretches out my
Back and hips. In that way when I do both they compliment each other. And with shreded
Tips and mental fatigue paddling out and staring at the horizon for a lump of pure joy sure
Is peaceful.
“If there weren’t rocks to climb, we would all be surfers.” I think Evon Chounard said that but perhaps someone else said it first.
I feel that statement about sums it up but I will try to go just a bit further
Both climbing and surfing have social elements such as lingo and dress apparel.
They each capture a wide audience stimulating glamorous feelings of intense adventure taking on nature on its own terms.
They each have many facets and levels. There’s the pure (relatively safe) recreational side of each sport which can be practiced without hazard by an average person seeking a unique activity in nature. All the way to the to extreme, beyond extreme level.
To move beyond the recreational level, commitment to the sport is mandatory.
To excel requires physical and mental preparedness along with natural talent and a passion that usually directs one’s life.
Relationships suffer and often careers are compromised in order to advance to the next level.
In both climbing and surfing, achievement requires travel and more often than not actually pulling up roots and moving to a place where conditions are favorable and where there are other enthusiasts to share mutual passions and goals.
In both sports there is a contingent of talented athletes with huge and fragile egos that need to be constantly nurtured by their peers and through media recognition of their latest achievements.
On the other hand both climbing and surfing each have a quiet contingent that’s equally talented. They go their way with humility and avoiding conflict and crowds. ‘Soul Surfer’ comes to mind.
In reality climbing and surfing are completely unique unto themselves and total opposites.
Perhaps it's through their diversity, that they indeed, complement each other.
http://vimeo.com/82140436
Sorry about the repeat image but it is a good one and it was taken by my friend.
We are supposed to have another giant swell event here on Maui. The wave models indicate the this one has enough west in it to wrap all the way to Kehei side. It might be a good day for a road trip. But if it's good here why leave waves to look for waves. Game On!
I'll be haunting my old lineups in just a few days as the ghost of Christmas past.
Hoping for some swell- surfing bigger waves is so much easier, and it's been a while for me.
If it's small, blown, crowded, whatever, I don't care...
Liquid therapy.
Stand-up Paddleboarding Jaws, Hawaii
Photograph by Richard Hallman
Getting the Shot
“Things at Jaws happen so fast, I wasn't sure it was even Kai taking off on the wave until my Skidoo driver Nano pointed and said, ‘Kai Lenny,’ ” recalls surf photographer Richard Hallman. “I focused my attention on the wave because I knew he was riding stand-up and even though the wave was small for Jaws, it was big for stand-up. He had a spectacular air drop.”
Lenny dropped into the wave, and Hallman continued to photograph the 20-foot ride until Lenny fell. “I knew right away with the few last frames in my camera that it was a particularly bad fall. My biggest concern at this point was his safety.”
Rescue Jet Skis rushed to help when Lenny resurfaced, and Hallman noticed Lenny’s foot was bleeding. “I immediately took a photo with my 70-200mm zoom camera—the zoom allowed me to see the severity of the cut. My experience as a former trauma nurse told me that this was a particularly bad cut,” he says.
“Nothing about big waves is routine. I think that is the why big-waving surfing is such a draw for me," Hallman continues. "It is daunting and challenging as a surfer and as a photographer. It truly is otherworldly to be pressed against the edge of so much energy and to watch these modern-day gladiators drop down these mountains of water.”
Special Thanx to Nano and DK Walsh (Skullbase) for helping with water support and special Thanx to Kai Lenny (Heal up fast Bro
We wave sailed in my back yard till almost dark yesterday.
I must admit that I was a bit timid in that the larger sets were in the 25' range and they had up to five waves in the sets. I was always looking over my shoulder and kicking out early most of the time. Due to the nearly 20 second interval there was plenty of time between sets but ya just didn't want to screw up by taking one of the early bombs and get clobbered by the following monsters. There was some blood and broken gear but everyone made it back in. We then gathered at some friends house and had burgers and wine and talked story for a while. It was a great Christmas Eve 2013. It's supposed to be bigger today. Game On!
Nice post O-man, and happy shredding to all. Kai Lenny is the son of old friend Martin Lenny. One of the nicest guys you will ever meet, and one heck of a surfer in his own right. If you ever need real estate in Maui, Martin is a man I would trust. I'm sure he knows all the best places.
Here's his link: http://www.mauirealestate.com/blog/2010/03/22/the-maui-real-estate-team-welcomes-martin-lenny/
We have had no shortage of waves here on the north shore but we have also had a pesky onshore wind turning the ocean into a mixed up mess. I guess we are spoiled with all the great conditions that we have had so far this winter season.
Yeah Studly, Martin Lenny is a great guy. I see Martin, Kai,and Ridge quite often. They're a great family!
>North shores – A lower medium northwest swell arriving Thursday, sticking around through Friday morning. The surf will peak out Thursday in the 2-3+(Hawaiian) range. A larger northwest swell will arrive during the day Friday into Saturday. A new north swell will arrive Sunday…followed by another new NW swell by Monday into Tuesday. Back to back swells, as is classic during this height of the winter surf season…or at least the beginning.
Drljefe, that is awesome, but my heart is breaking.
I want to do that exact trip so bad, but circumstance seems to forbid it.
Every trip I plan gets derailed BIG TIME.
And let me tell you, there is nothing like a backlit green wall bending and growing before you.
Uncontested glassy point surf, aquarium like clarity, and friends to stare at the horizon with.
On this trip I did a route off the couch that I was pretty proud of but it didn't even compare to that first bottom turn and racing down the line on a measly waist high perfect wave.
Since moving to Arizona, the closest I've got to surfing (ha!) is a trip down to Rocky Point.
I keep planning to take a week off, and head to San Diego, buy a $100 beater longboard project, surf a few days, and then hit up Joshua Tree on the way back home, and give my rekindled climbing dreams a jump start.
Then when I get home, restore the board and be up and running agin.
I've even scheduled time off twice, only to have the trip evaporate before it started... This is particularly poignant, as this has happened a third time... I have all next week off, but the $$ have blown to the winds.
In Oregon, it was so damp and cold that building boards and doing major repairs was a real pain. I once re-glassed a 7'10" semi gun, but we got hit with a cold snap and torrential rain. I couldn't get the garage warm enough, and the resin never kicked. In the spring I had to basically scrub the whole board with acetone, lay it in the sun, and re-do it.
I saw an old bashed up Bing on San Diego cl for $200. Sigh....
Someday soon.
Plus, lets talk about wave size for a moment...
The biggies get all the pics and the ooh's and awww's.
But the days I remember most were waist to head and glassy, combed, just endless waves rolling in.
I like seeing the big wave pics, but it's like another sport, another world. Thats why I always like watching Joel Tudor videos... he surfs all sorts of waves on all sorts of boards. For the average mainland schmoe, the likely-hood of a knee to thigh high day is pretty high.
we had this sort of thrown-together group in Oregon, The North Pacific Log Club. A couple times we picked a nice swell, the interval was double the swell height, and had a campout. Everybody brought their board down and threw it on the beach. You could just swap and try boards to your hearts content. Most were old and funky... longboards of every description and fin configuration, old fish shapes, and 7' singlefins with rails you could cut your hand on.. It was a blast. No leashes either! I had a few Pina Coladas and stayed out until well after the moon was up. It was probably my funnest day surfing, and there wasn't a wave taller than me probably.
I should be surfing right now, but I'm stuck in Colorado. Luckily my friends own a SUP company (Badfish) and my bro has his shop downtown!!!!!
Well, if I can't be surfing right now, I might as well be making a surfboard to try when I do. Here is what I have come with so far. I'm putting the fin box setup in late this morning, then start glassing in the evening, or tomorrow.
Its my new fun board. That is, unless it surfs like sh#t and goes on my wall as a "nice try" kind of thing. Sure is a good time though, and I think I'm learning more about surfboards in 3 weeks than I have in 15 years.
Love all the photos to keep the stoke folks. Thanks!!!!
Thruster. I don't have the measurements, but its more of a modern fun board. Its wide as hell and holds a lot of volume. Instead of stretched out its stubby (at 6'3!!!) and is thick. I will post accurate measurements once I f*#k up putting the fin boxes in. Ha!!!!!!! I designed the board to be a bit less bulky than my Hynson White Knight 6'6 which has just a bit too much volume for my light ass.
North shores Maui – Moderate northeast swell through this weekend, although gradually dropping…into the first part of the new week. A large northwest swell will arrive next Wednesday, followed by what the NWS is calling a “dangerously large” NW swell by next Thursday night into Friday – requiring a high surf warning on both north and west shores!
yeah o-man should be solid, tomorrow will be in the 17@17 range here in humboldt,
i'm hoping for a window at the harbor. but it would be great to see the Eddie go on friday. Sending aloha from the oh'ana on the other north shore
I'm "Stoked!" to see so much activity on this thread lately!
I am still nursing a very sore arm and I am finding that rest is the only thing that seems to help. I am getting some sessions in but I am being very selective with the conditions and length of my sessions.
I had to blow off two big wave light air wave sailing sessions last week because because I knew that I would be hurting after all that slogging. After all I am an elder and have proved my self in battle many times. I like to feel with age comes wisdom and when it doesn't feel right don't do it. I was ready to paddle out at Kanaha yesterday but the conditions didn't look all that great and there was also a tiger shark sighting reported so I blew it off.
A very cool thing happened this week here in my back yard.
John John Florence and some of his North Shore Oahu crew came over to play with Albie Layer,Matt Meola and the rest of the Maui Air Force and I was lucky to catch two of their evening sessions at Lanes. The waves were rather small but they made the most of it.
I shot a bunch of stuff but here's one of John John's waves.
Fun to see this post here.
My three greatest passions in life are climbing, surfing and fly-fishing (specifically tenkara). I lived on the coast until very recently. For a couple of years, many years ago, I lived in Santa Barbara, CA. That was the most conducive place to do both climbing and surfing. I either surfed or climbing every other day depending on weather and swells. It was tons of fun to do both. And, I found them complementary since I wasn't over-doing either, but using different muscles and joints.
I just moved to Colorado a year ago, so no surfing for me. I miss it a bunch sometimes. Though I also go through periods when one activity seems to take priority in my life, and climbing is the main thing for me at the moment.
However, I already learned I can surf on the Colorado river (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SU3RGkomCoc. There is climbing near there. And, there obviously is some fishing opportunity there too. So, this Spring I'll try doing a triathlon of climbing, surfing and tenkara!
[url="
Click on the link below for some images that I captured of John-John and the Maui gang at Lanes the day before the ones that I posted up thread.
I only had my small camera with me so quality is low but the subject is pretty cool.
//http://mauisurfing.blogspot.com/"]//http://mauisurfing.blogspot.com/[/url]
From Business Insider to Throwpie's FaceBook page to supetopo.com from MFM.
The long way round for such a short ride, eh?
TECH More: GoPro
A GoPro Camera And A Drone Captured Stunning Footage Of Surfers Tackling Monster Waves In Hawaii
ALYSON SHONTELL
JAN. 15, 2014, 7:30 AM 1,175
Eric Sterman is an aerial photographer who strapped a GoPro camera to a DJI quadcopter drone in Oahu, Hawaii.
He captured footage of surfers in one of the world's most popular (and dangerous) surfing locations, Banzai Pipeline. The Next Web's Nick Summers found the footage.
It's game on around this neck of the woods!
We were blessed with a small but consistent NW swell earlier in the week and I got two good sessions at Noriega's here in my back yard.
The next day the forerunners of this swell event that is happening now came through and it got too big for my comfort level. I went down the beach to Kanaha and took a peek. At first glance I wasn't impressed by the wave but the air was so still and the ocean just looked so dreamy that I had to paddle out. The after work crowd had not assembled so the line up was very manageable. I noticed that many of my friends were out there and the vibe was really cool. I got what was probably my best left of the season right away and that was followed by an incredible head and a half right that held up for ever.
After those two waves the vibe changed with more and more surfers in the water.
Still the paddle in vibe was OK but there became a contingent of shoulder hopping SUP'ers that were paddling for every thing and in the way every wave.
When cleanup sets came through it was literally a yard sale and there was not safe route down the line so I went in feeling that I had had a great session.
After three days of paddling I decided to give my sore arm a rest and went out to Jaws and shot over 500 images of some of the best big wave paddle in surfers in the world. Jammie Mitchell,Greg Long,Shane Dorian,Peter Mell,Ian Walsh,and the list goes on and on. It was still firing when I left but after five hours of shooting I was over it.
When I get around to editing the file I will post some more.
I scored a great session at Kanaha yesterday. The morning crew was just getting off the water so the crowd was very small the waves were head to head and a half, very clean,and plentiful. I surfed most of the session with my neighbor Debbie Brown. It's amazing to see so many friends in one place. That was because Kanaha was just about the only spot on the north shore that was manageable. They were towing in at my place at Kuau. Hookipa and Lanes had a hand full of paddle in guys. I thought about taking photos but my Jaws session the day before had me a bit fried. It's bigger today so I don't think I will even try to surf so may be I go out to Jaws again. Here's another random shot from Jaws on Friday.
Despite the drought, I'm loving this stretch of October in January we've been having on the Central Coast. Surfed 13 days so far in 2014, mostly under sunny skies with offshore winds. Not hawaiian perfection, but I can't complain!
adam d 13 out of 18 days is awesome and believe me it aint always that perfect around here. I didn't get in the water yesterday. The reports were that Kanaha was closed out and the other mortal spots were packed.
So I watched football and then drove out to Jaws and shot a few photos.
Here a couple.
drljefe, It has been awesome to shoot this stuff! The problem is the volume of material is overwhelming.
If it paid cash I would be on it full time but there is so much competition and so little compensation.
I do get the respectful head nod occasionally.
I walked by one dude that was shooting from the bluff and asked if he knew who was out.He said "yes" and then ignored me. a-hole.
I will post more soon.
BTW Shaun Walsh is my neighbor and a good kid.
This is going to be interesting!
Could the next swell actually be on par with the epic El Nino beasts of ’69 & ’98? This from the National Weather Service Honolulu Office today: “Models are showing a surface low pressure deepening to hurricane force west of the dateline 1/19, tracking east across the dateline near 40°N 1/20, continuing east to near 165°W near 40°N Tuesday, then turning north into Wednesday. This should make for giant surf by the wee hours 1/22 from within 290-330 degrees. The track, track speed, size, and depth of central pressure are similar to low pressure systems that generated giant surf locally of January 28, 1998, February 23, 1986, and December 1 and 4, 1969. It is too early for specifics, other than noting that this could potentially be the type of surf episode on order of decadal turn-around…”
Good post drljefe!
It's gonna be MAKKIN' today!
I woke to a steady rain and heavy cloud cover. The road into Jaws will be a disaster so I am going to work. My job is right around the corner from my house so I'll be at the beach all day and will keep an eye on my own back yard. I hope every one that has intentions to give the ocean a try is well prepared for what they are getting into!
Here's another shot from last Sunday.
As it turned out I did go out to Peahi yesterday and it was a total zoo!
The largest waves were in the late afternoon but it was really big all day.
All the old tow in crew and many of the new guard were towing. Laird,Dave Kalama,Buzzy Kerbox to name a few. Laird went over the falls and really got worked!
They were also filming some stuff for the movie "Point Break II".
Two of my friends and I were at the beach here at Kuau yesterday evening and we had to climb a tree to keep from being washed away by a very large set! I'm not kidding!
It's still big so I think I'll go back out to Peahi again today.
Here's some random shot from yesterday at Jaws
Jaws has really been delivering the goods and yesterday was no exception!
The swell had dropped and the wind backed off making for really clean conditions.
Also most of the heavy hitters had caught flights to events in California and Mexico.
There were some of the most awesome waves that I have ever seen going un-ridden.
I thought this sequence was fairly cool.
All the old tow in guard and most of the new crew were tow in.
Looks like in that wave of the year vid that he paddled in. Didn't show how he caght the wave, but it doesn't look like he's locked into footstraps (maybe they don't use them for tow in anymore.) How big a waves are they paddling into there? Great shots and vid!
edit: JohnM - semi's are about to kick off at Maverick's 4:15.
Looks like in that wave of the year vid that he paddled in
splitter, the 19th was entirely a paddle-in day at Peahi and a lot of bombs were ridden. It was the best paddle in day that I have seen at Jaws so far.
It seemed like all the heavy big wave chargers were there and most of them were paddling out from the bluff. I should have taken the time to shoot photos of the guys in the parking area as they came in or before they paddled out but I was too busy at my camera stand on the bluff. I was exhausted from 5 straight hours in the sun pushing the shutter button.
I have already posted several images from the 19th and need to put them all together and post them on one of my blogs.I'll post a link when that is done.
As far as how big goes I don't know but most of the guys are in the six foot range.Cheers, Olaf
Check out my friend Jake Miller's new video the he and his crew shot at Jaws on the 17th and 19th of this month.
Also click on the link I posted below to see some of my shots from the 17th
Be sure to click on the image to see the images in a larger format. I edited this file down from over five hundred and had trouble getting it down to half that size I hope you enjoy the ride!
This has become my favorite thread and I am pleased to meet all you guys that are passionate about surfing as well as climbing. I'm very stoked get all the great feedback on the surfing stuff that I have been posting all this time.
It seems that this thread is dominated by surfing and there is very little climbing input lately other that the great stuff that"drljefe" posts from time to time. So I thought I would go out on a limb and tell a climbing story to bump this thread along. It's a bit long winded but here goes.
Maurice Reed and I were on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle back in the spring of 84 when he pointed out a steep face on a rock formation over toward Sunshine Wall. The face had three crack systems on it and one of them went right up the middle.
Maurice said to me, (in his thick southern drawl) “Ma’an, we gotta climb that thang!”
Several people that we contacted said they had been looking at it and thought it looked really cool, but, nobody that we could find, had actually tried it.
We went on a reconnaissance hike and scouted a route through the massive boulders at the base of the formation. We also scoped the face with binoculars. Along with a healthy bush that was growing out of the crack I noticed an old tattered rap sling about 1/3 way up the second pitch. Maurice said,”Ma’an, I sure hope that sling was left by some ole aid climber when he bailed off the thing?”
A few days later we returned with leather gloves, tree loppers, a saw, and a crow bar. With this equipment we chopped, cut, stomped and trundled our way to the base of the climb. We had to negotiate dense anti-personal bushes, downed trees, and several large and very loose boulders. With all the obstacles we encountered, it was obvious that no one had been in this gully in many years or, maybe ever.
Maurice and I drove back down to Foxton a week later. We parked in our usual spot. I stashed some beer in the river while Maurice sorted the climbing gear. We then shouldered our packs and walked down the road a ways before we crossed over the old barbed wire fence. We marched past the symmetrically cut Rose Granite slabs, steel cables and other equipment that was abandoned when the rock quarry operation shut down decades earlier. We then headed up the, steep, gravel hillside through stands of aspen, needle sharp yucca plants, blooming cactus and patches of kininnikinnick. When we took the occasional rest break we could hear the Platte River as it blended harmoniously with the wind rushing through the Ponderosa Pines and spreading their thick scent of butterscotch. In those days there were only game trails in the Cathedral Spires and we usually took a different route each time.
Once we were at the base of the climb, Maurice led the first pitch up to a large belay ledge. He made it look easy although it involved some of the hardest moves on the entire climb.
The belay ledge was littered with loose rocks. We trundled most of them before attempting the next pitch. (Ah, the sight, sounds, and smells of granite boulders gaining momentum on their way to the valley below!) My dog “Beau” was at the base and he just wouldn’t “STAY or SIT!” like I told him to. Beau was running excitedly all over the place. He thought we were playing some sort of game. Maurice said” Ma'an, he’ll get out of the way, believe me, he’ll get out of the way!” It’s luckily for Beau that he didn’t get clobbered by one of those non- guided projectiles!
Pitch two was my lead. It started off as a continuously difficult but well protected finger crack that lead up to a steep, poorly protected, lay back section. I had trouble committing to those moves with the marginal gear that I had in. I could see the sequence that I needed to make but my strength was draining fast.
I was really getting pumped and there was no natural rest to be found. After several tries I was completely exhausted so I down climbed to my last good gear placement. Maurice then lowered me back to the belay ledge.
Maurice was now chomping at the bit to give this pitch a go. We quickly switched the belay over and I handed him the rack. He charged up to my high point and got really pumped trying to commit to those poorly protected moves.
I could tell Maurice was frustrated as he down climbed to the last piece of gear. Reluctantly, he clipped in and tied off and yelled,”Ma’an , send me the pins and a hammer”. Although he was tied off he refused to hang on the protection any more than he had to while we negotiated the gear transfer. Maurice climbed back up to our high point and put in two solid pitons without hanging. Getting those pins in proved to be very tiring. It would have compromised his ethics to hang on the gear while he regenerated, so, he had me lower him all the way down to the belay ledge
With the rest I got while belaying, and the security of the pitons Maurice placed, I gained the strength and confidence I needed to pull through those steep, committing layback moves. This put me at the start of the elegant and slightly overhanging hand sized crack in the head wall.
With the layback section out of the way all seemed straight forward. That is, until I encountered a completely detached spike that can only be described as the tip of a miniature pinnacle. There was no way around this gnarly feature. The spike actually moved when I touched it. I didn’t dare put any outward force on it!
I had some decent gear right below my feet but nothing any higher. I had a solid foot jam for a stance. I yelled down to Maurice,” Dude, move the belay as far over to the right as possible and, Watch Out! OK?”
His response was “ Ma’an, I am as far over as I can get! And YOU better watch out your own self!”
With no other holds to use I mantled, and stood up ever so carefully on the tip of that detached spike! I was trembling after I completed those delicate moves! Fortunately, there was a great nut placement just as I stood up and put all my weight on the point of the spike. I moved up quickly and got some good hand and foot jams. I then leaned out from the rock and looked down at Maurice and said “Dude that was Dicey!” I can’t imagine what it would have been like if that teetering block had come off while I was attempting that sketchy mantle move!
Next was what turned out to be some of my all time favorite moves in the Platte. The elegant and overhanging headwall proved to be well protected, strenuous, thin hand jamming all the way up to a semi-hanging belay stance!
While seconding the pitch Maurice jettisoned that dangerous block. This created a great rest stance before the steep and continuous crack climbing at the end of the pitch.
As we set up the rappel anchors, I said to Maurice,” Dude, what do you want to name it?” He thought for a second and said “Well, Ma’an, we’re both from Mississippi so let’s call it Mississippi Half Step!”
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From the top of the Half Step we noticed a steep rippling face on the formation across the gully toward Cynical Pinnacle. Maurice said,” Ma’an we gotta climb that!”
Maurice and I had been putting up some steep friction climbs over on Snake buttress in traditional, ground up, style.
This face was long, blank, and real steep. It had a number of sloping features that looked as though they might be stances that we could drill bolts from.
Once again the approach was blocked by large loose boulders and the ever present thorn bushes(A.P.B.s) so again we had our work cut out for us, just getting to the base of the climb.
For this climb we were armed with only a hammer, a hand drill, and 1.5”x1/4” expansion bolts.
It was our usual style on these type climbs to swap the lead after each bolt placement.
The climb was going just as we thought it would .We would delicately climb away from the safety of our last bolt placement making steep friction moves that were close to the point of repose. Each section ended with a thin and technical, mantle move. Once we made the mantle and gained our vertical balance, (using only the friction of the rubber of our (EB) climbing shoes against the granite), on one of those less steep bumps. We would then pull out the hand drill and hammer and start the long tedious process of drilling a hole in the granite face. We would then pound in the expansion bolt from the sloping stance.
After the third bolt, I climbed up a steep section of micro- flakes that ended in a mantle move at a difficulty of about 5.11. I drilled and hammered in bolt from the steep stance and then had Maurice lower me back to the base.
On Maurice’s try, a critical flake disintegrated while he was pulling through on it. We were so bummed because without that flake, our climb became a whole lot harder! We pulled the rope through our top bolt and tried to lead the section again and again. We each took several substantial pendulum falls and our finger tips were starting to bleed so we gave up it up and called it a day.
We swiftly skied the loose gravel mountain side down to the valley where we had some of our favorite beverage stashed in the icy river. We sat on the tail gate and enjoyed some much needed refreshment, and reflected on the day’s efforts. We absorbed the view of the Cathedral Spires as last rays of sun hit Cynical Pinnacle along with the sounds of the raging Platte River and the comradely of two best friends! We were well into our beverages and completely blissed out when were approached by a climber that appeared out of nowhere. He seemed friendly enough and looked thirsty. Maurice said Ma’an, you want a beer?” He accepted the offer so we shared the tail gate and our cold beer with him as we name dropped and swapped climbing stories. The conversation eventually turned to bolting. The guy said that he had been up at The Dome and he had been chopping the bolts on a route that had been placed on rappel. He stated that he intended to chop all the bolts in the Platte that had been placed on rappel! When Maurice heard this fellows bold statement he looked the guy in the eye and said, “Ma’an, I don’t Rapp bolt, BUT, if I did, and you were to chop ANY of MY bolts, and I found out about it, I’d find out where you lived and slash your tires!” And, I personally believe, he meant it!
Maurice moved away soon after that first attempt and our climb was unfinished business. I vowed to wait until Maurice returned but I became impatient.
I enlisted the help of Noel Childs to work on the route with me. I was able to climb that section on my next try.
With the crux section climbed Noel was stoked to finish the pitch. He was bummed when I stated that I wanted to wait a couple of months until Maurice returned to Colorado to finish the pitch that we started. Noel was not pleased but he agreed reluctantly.
When Maurice did return we finished the first pitch in one push. We named the climb Mr. Mantle since there were so many wild mantle moves on that pitch.
The second pitch was steep but relatively moderate hand and fist crack that the late Catherine Freer and I did on a beautiful spring day not long before her tragic accident.
I had a great ride up that route, once upon a time. Lost a contact on that big ledge, dusted it off, lubed it with spit, popped it back in, then had a go at P2. What a GREAT climb.
Charles,
You surf? That is disgusting. I just noticed the author of this thread that has polluted ST's forum. My respect for you is shredded. You suck. Really?
JC :)
All the drone footy showing up(Pipe, Jaws)is truly incredible.
I'm home sick on Super Bowl Sunday and it's a beautiful day.
So I decided to re read this entire thread.
It's epic.
The stories and photos from the many contributors are great.
O Man,
funny, your Halfstep story was very familiar to me. Turns out you'd posted it before- it's buried back in the 500s.
Your stories, updates, and photos are much appreciated.
Lurkers like Esparza and the Alpine who obviously rip, T2, ESU, adamd, rp3, thanks for your stuff.
Pyro's gopro stills, and I'm sure his surfing too, have progressed. Cool to see.
Everyone, thanks for sharing.
And I saw some posts from GhoulweJ, who just passed away recently. Ride on, J.
And I got to re read some of my posts that I'd totally forgotten about.
In most threads I'm just a drive by poster or photo sharer but I realize that I've actually contributed some writing to this thread. Personal stuff, emotional stuff, and stories I'm actually proud of.
It's been a joy and a stoker to revisit this thread from the beginning.
And while other surfing threads have come and gone, I'm glad this one has endured.
Thanks to Charles for starting it.
Now I'm waiting for my old pal bobJ to post up the field test results of his hand shaped freak board.
FA Shock Collar 5.11
Minus tides
Lowers
Mirage V4
these feet, my carriage
supported my weight on minuscule edges
thousands of feet above the ground, jammed
into cracks screaming, cut on reefs in the middle
of the pacific, apply just the right pressure to hold a line
pitted fifty feet from the sand, carried me miles to the base
of the rock, squeaked in the finest sand, clung to cobbles, stuck
to wax, tattooed in the islands, cut in Central America, colored red
in Hueco, frozen solid in big sur. these feet. Aloha motherf*#kers.
@ Gregory Crouch:
Nope, Oregon! That board must've migrated north and showed up dinged, yellowed, and under $100 at a shop. Gave it some new glass and a new look. Got some good rides on that board, hope it's in better hands now.
O Man,
funny, your Halfstep story was very familiar to me. Turns out you'd posted it before- it's buried back in the 500s.
Your stories, updates, and photos are much appreciated.
drljefe, I was afraid of that but I posted it any way needing to share some climbing. Somethings that happened this week have me very introspective lately mainly the passing of Mark Hesse.
Dude I am sorry that you're feeling ill. I hope you're better soon.
Thanks again for yet another great post!
If I told ya, I'd have to kill ya! It is deep south of El Rosario.
When we drove past Salsipuedes, the road was just starting to fail. There was a 1-2' scarp you had to drive over and then up again. The Mexican transit folks were trying to pave over the whole mess. The entire thing collapsed a few days later:
The awesome link below was sent to me on facebook by trundlebum.
Yet another dynamic force taken by cancer.
I thought it worthy of sharing with you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hU1ogqBhNdI#t=25
QuSaying Mahaha to a local there might get you punched in the face. ote Here
brotherbbock, That was a typo and I corrected it as soon as I noticed it. before I read your post.
I assure you that I have a very deep respect for Hawaiian culture.
Your point is taken and I apologize to any and all that might have been offended in this matter.
nice post jefe. i also enjoy your additions to this thread. this winter has turned out pretty good since the crap fall we had. Have done a few "missions" and conditions have been stellar. went to santa cruz last swell and the lane and pleasure point were on. have to download a few pics. also thanks o-man for all your great stuff. never know you might see me in your backyard.... heh heh heh edit : eastside tube time got to get it while you can....pray for snow
Dar-Dar, it's probably Mexico, but yeah it does look like the Ranch. From my memories of it in the late Sixties. The railroad track runs right through the Ranch just like that too and are visible from Governments, Perkos, not sure what happens much south of there.
Jefe always loves dropping these things like this, leaving quandaries and kerfuffle. It is fun. Makes him the big master.
Yeah; it really looks like The Ranch. What a superb piece of coast that is. I will never forget it.
I've always been way into the histories of both climbing and surfing, and their many parallels.
My favorite era for both was the 70s.
The casts of characters, the advancements in gear and performance, the style factor, and the lifestyles and subculture.
The parallels are many!
These guys were pushing limits at spots like Pipeline with effortless style, tripping on acid.
Trips were funded and companies started with profits from hash and herb brought back from far off places like Indonesia(or Tuolumne).
The bolt logo on Lightning Bolt surfboards was taken directly from the stamps that could be found on afghani hash. I've been told that some of the major surf wear companies still around today got their start the same way.
I think a lot of the same stuff was going down in Yosemite during this time too. The best in the world were Americans and they were loaded.
Pretty amazing time in general and especially in the worlds of climbing and surfing.
Jim, I think I smell what you're cookin'.
Drug use has been prevalent in these subcultures, especially back in the 70s (I guess, I was playing with Evel Kinevel toys at the time).
Psychedelics and ganja are one thing, performance enhancing maybe- Think "Free your mind and your ass will follow".
Unfortunately there's a dark side to our subcultures too, with those who cross the line of recreational use into addictions with the hard stuff.
In surfing the cautionary tales are many, spanning every era.
And yes, I did lose a friend, a loved one, to heroin.
There are posts about Travis back in this thread.
He was my favorite surfer, so talented, and he ended up sleeping in the bathroom at Salt Creek and stealing sh#t to feed his addiction before he OD'd.
I'm definitely not advocating or glorifying drug use but there is something romantic about those guys surfing Pipe in the moonlight with some sunshine, Orange Sunshine.
I"m so stoked to have surfed two perfictly glassy mornings in my back yard with very few people in the line up and they were my friends. It just doesn't suck at all!
I thought this was cute so I'm passing it on.
Richard Hallman wrote:
"I never get tired of You - even when you come crashing down on my head... I love Your straightforward no-nonsense approach to life... It's more than just some High School crush... This is a deep love that keeps me coming back again and again... You make my knees wobble when you are near - I'm afraid to speak - but know I am drowning in Your passion and always think about and respect the thousands of miles You traveled to see me... and even though it may seem weird to some people - I do really like watching other people ride YOU..."
Yeah. Mullaghmore should be getting more attention, it is so terrifically awesome. Not only a awfully badass location up there by Sligo on the North Sea but effing giant thick tubes in 45 degree water and big currents on a rocky shoreline. And it holds beyond 60 ft…..with magnificent shape in a wall, not just some giant A-frame peak.
I use to drive out and surf Makaha quite a bit, the wave is fantastic, I mean at every size, it was so much fun, catch it, bottom turn, head down the wall, make it around the back wash and you could step right off the board onto the sand.
When Rell was there the place had no egos we all surfed what we could, we were family out there. After her passing, my bud and I had more and more negative experiences so we just quit driving out.
Jefe emailed me recently, quietly wanting to know what a "shorebreak" was, never having seen a real one and mostly spending his time in the Great Southwest, grunting up rude desert features and feeding Rosebud.
So I stepped right in. Or should I say Inn?
This is the 17c pub, The Cove House Inn on Chiswell Beach in Dorset, Midlands, England.
Yeah no kidding. The most disturbing image ever of a wave, in my experience. Worse than the morphing sicko slabs on big days of Shipstern's Bluff even and her many sister slabs about the world.
Part of the crucial component to this picture is not instantly obvious: it's the titanic backwash from the very steep beach. It doubles the wave height for a brief moment, but still the force coming shoreward is incomprehensible, isn't it? This is what Hegel meant by The Sublime. A natural spectacle that horrifies even with its power. Like waterfalls, he said.
It's great to see activity on this tread again.
Peter that is some frightening shore pound. The view of the wave with the Cove House Inn in the foreground provides a dynamic perspective. What a place to have a pint and watch the raw power of the ocean!
I love the images Leggs the portrait by drljefe is most striking, love it!
drljefe,that's a great climbing image man the colors are unreal. I could use a bit of that action myself.These days my climbing head is out. It would take some serious time on the dull end of the rope to be able to lead with any resemblance of authority.
We are in the middle of what Ilima Kalama has described as the best Maui surfing winter that he can remember. And Ilima has been around the Hawaii surf scene for quite a while.
Judging from all the info that I have had it has been epic for you guys on the west coast as well.
The monster swells have backed off for a while now and have been replaced with substantial yet very doable and mostly windless conditions.
The diehard wind surfers and kiters are extremely grumpy especially the vacationers that spend soo much money to come here to enjoy the best wave sailing conditions in the world. Up until last Wednesday afternoon I hadn't even rigged a sail since Christmas Day and that is a long stretch for Maui.
I have been surfing here in my back yard nearly every day for the past several weeks and it is all a blur past last week.
I have been worked pretty good quite a bit and have hit the reef more than I like to think about. Two days in a row I got caught inside by cleanup sets that drilled me so hard that I was really needing air while they drug me on the reef deep in to the bay. Each time it took me a while to get shake it off and the hydraulics were so strong and confused that I couldn't punch back out so I had to paddle to the extreme back of the bay and walk the rocks back home.
A few days back I went for a rather large wave and my take off was a bit late which sent me over the falls I didn't have time to even get my arms up to protect my head and the force of that wave drove me deep and hard into the rocks. It felt like I had maybe really injured my right arm. I immediately got my arms up to my head before I encountered the reef again. That one took the starch out of me! I spent the rest of the session over on the right shoulder and picked up some scraps. Lucky my right arm was only bruised and no real damage was done.
My friend Tracy Harrp wasn't so lucky she was to deep on a close out and got pulled over the falls and landed on her board and got stabbed in the butt by one of the fins. I was paddling out as she was paddling in and she said " I took a fall Mate, and cut me bum!" (She's a hard charging Kiwi) I said let me see and it was bad and deep. her boyfriend Dean took her to the clinic Where the doc had to stitch her wound inside and out.
Olaf Mitchell It looked bad when I saw the wound as we passed in the channel when you were paddling in. I figured that you might need stitches but I had no ides the it was that deep.
10 hours ago · Like · 1
Tracey Harrap Yeah I didn't know it was that deep either Olaf until the doc said i can get my finger in to here as he pointed to his 2nd knuckle oh jeepers thanks doc, they needed to flush it out really good and sew in some internal stitchers as well as I had cut the muscle... least its not on my face as some people have had... so I am lucky. funny I took this photo while i was waiting to get some clothes and once I saw it I felt not so good lol .
Today the waves have gone away an we have junky on shore wind. It's time to catch up on a few things.
Jesus Briham, what a terrific video. Love Blackmill's music to the video, too. Thanks
I was delightfully mesmerized all the way through the video!
Exquisite barrel riding! I feel he captured the essence of the experience.
Thanks for sharing briham!
Thanks JimC. When surfing gets down to legends and their stories told... it is at its best.
Someone should do a book on legends of surfing, not just about leading characters but freak occurrences that did sweep up past surfers in their lore.
A couple of examples would be giant 100-year swells, freak perfection in crazy places, out-of-the ordinary freak waves or swells. Kind of a grassroots, difficult-to-research. How come we never read about rogue waves, too, hitting a line-up? Not just big for the day but total anomalies? I think Charlie Porter or a similar character related a story about having landed in a cove on the southwest coast of Chile somewhere and watching a one-of-a-kind monster wave close out the entire bay he had chosen to beach himself in for the night. Nothing like it had been occurring that day. It turns out there are oodles of freak waves out there; we can read them by satellite now (wave height data). Thousands of ships get wiped out by them and insurance companies are used to it. We need more writing about what our oceans are able to do, especially when people are trying to play in them.
There used to be some photos posted at the Boardwalk down on the Main Beach in Santa Cruz back in the Sixties of a day a giant swell hit the area. it was in the twentieth century, but I don't recall much after that but the photos of gargantuan corduroy approaching our civic beach. The swell was perfectly positioned, and raised giant surf that attacked the main beach (?!?!) at what looked like 15ft. In the biggest NW swells, that spot is usually no more than 8 ft, even still a monster. I can't find the data online today but how cool?
Its these legends, the world-making tales, often oral...worth grabbing into literature.
I'm sure this has been mentioned as a comparison: Surfing has become so crowded that it's much harder to enjoy then climbing. You have to travel to the extreme to get uncrowded surf or luck out and catch the one day out of a hundred where conditions are right without the mob. You can still get a great climbing adventure minutes from the road in traditional climbing areas on a beautiful weekend. Not so at the great surf spots. For your comparison: A vid about one of the most amazing waves in the world in comparison to Everest. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxsr0vbPdsY
Then, this..
I went to an awesome wedding today. We all paddled out and made a circle around the bride and groom while the said their vows and did the ring thing. Then we all surfed small but fun waves for the rest of the morning.
A nice long left break near Phan Thiet in Vietnam off a jetty. It had good surf every day.
A perfect wave to learn on, and when it had some size it was rad.
It's great to see some activity on this thread lately.
We have been going through a period of messy,squally on shore conditions lately and it hasn't really been all that inviting.
I'm spoiled I guess?
I did have a delightful,glassy well over head session out in front of my place here in Kuau about a week ago.BTW: It's no longer my back yard. It's now my front yard. The place in front of me opened up so I moved.
I broke my finger in a wind surfing session a while back. I was trying to water start in light/fluky wind close in to the rocks. I got caught in the strong current and wound up washing in on the rocks. My finger got f**ked up while trying to hold on to my gear while bouncing through the rock garden. A lot of people went on the rocks that day. In reality I rarely get through a season at Kuau without some sort of injury.
I can surf with no problem but the injury has kept me from wave sailing for fear of re injuring it,especially, in these less than epic conditions.
I thought I would toss in a random image that I took at "Jaws" earlier this season.
Olaf- the last wave in your video is out of control.
No way I thought he'd make it.
Those guys are nutz down there.
Thanks for posting that.
Videos of Shipsterns and other cold water slabs remind me of Gritstone videos.
Totally competent guys making it by the skin on their teeth or providing us viewers with some Grade A carnage.
Sorry to get all mellow on y'all, my pulse is still pounding from the last couple videos, but here's a Brant pushing through the shore break in Edmonds Washington.
It often occurs to me this year or two, surfing has surpassed climbing. It has finally addressed its real questions, the peel is off. Terrific video, that GoPro piece Oman just put up. All-time!! Great piece of music too, amillionbilliondyingsuns: "Plush".
got to watch slater rip double overhead low tide g-land riding switch (goofy) it was amazing meamwhile i was taking servere beatings on my backhand, it 's one thing to ride switch on a snowboard . try it on a surfboard not so easy.
I've surfed Blacks a few times.
The most memorable being a beautiful weather weekday with no significant swell in the water. It was flat where I lived so we drove south.
From the trail, well you know, from the trail it looked meager but inviting.
By the time I was on the sand a set rolled in. Eeeeeeeeoooooowwwww!
made it out fine and got a few. I was actually pretty close to my limit and felt kind of timid.
The main peak was packed with dudes wanting those lefts, ooooh, those lefts.
So I sat at north peak, where I could watch guys getting slotted and be in position for some rights.
Got a couple good ones, took some major lumps, dialed in a new board(r.i.p Midget)and shot the sh#t with my bro Charlie(of Socorro/17mi dr fame).
Well, Charlie caught one in so I figured next one I'm in too.
An absolute gem came right to me. I'm right at the knuckle. I make the drop, it bends, throws, and I'm standing up in the barrel. One of my best ever, in fact, spit and all. I see Charles the nutty professor on the beach so I claim it. Bigtime claim. Kook claim.
I walk up the beach towards Charles and our stuff and....it's not Charles. I'm embarrassed until he says, "sick one bro, what are you riding?"
edit
There is nothing like watching those lumps roll in and then seeing them make a 90 degree turn right towards you.
Only at Blacks.
I just received this message from my neighbor Ian Walsh and thought I would put it out to the California ST surfing contingent. It would be cool if y'all kept an eye out.
"ATTN: Santa Barbara / Ventura areas I had these two boards pictured above and one other stolen yesterday.
My 2 favorite identical looking Mayhem/Lost boards that are 5'9 & 6'0 as well as a 5'2 Tomo. Contact me via Instagram and if you help me get these boards back under my feet I will be more than happy to REWARD you with a nice surprise!! Please share & let's make some social media magic happen!
Regardless of the missing boards I had an awesome time in SB, thank you!"
#findwalshysboards
There is nothing like watching those lumps roll in and then seeing them make a 90 degree turn right towards you.
Only at Blacks.
Why is this the case? I have only surfed there once or twice and don't recall observing a huge bend in the wave face... that being said conditions were pretty small and mediocre....
Really, it's what makes Blacks special- the submarine canyon.
The deep water canyon channels the NW swell towards the beach, kind of like an off ramp, allowing it to hit with maximum power.
By the time swell reaches most average beachbreaks the power has been diminished by a gradual, sloping underwater topography.
Moss Landing, in Monterey Bay, has a similar submarine canyon.
An absolute gem came right to me. I'm right at the knuckle. I make the drop, it bends, throws, and I'm standing up in the barrel. One of my best ever, in fact, spit and all.
Nice image. It's been about 20 years since my last real waves, but they still stick with me as your description indicates. Powerful stuff.
I never surfed at Blacks. That day sounds like a mix of swells. Do you have any guess about what was coming from where, and what gave you that ride? I couldn't answer that question for most of my days out in Humboldt or S.F., but I had to ask.
One time I spent an afternoon (maybe a full day? don't remember) with my boogie board, flippers, mask, & snorkel, and launched out of Black's Beach and cut straight across the bay, following a line up the center of Jefe's picture all the way to the point in down town La Jolla, and back. It was rad. Lots of interesting birds along the cliffs north of downtown. Got scared a few times when curious seals hung out close by, thinking how utterly helpless I would be if they felt like biting me and taking off. Had a glorious moment coming over the crest of a wave at sunset back at Black's Beach, and a pair of dolphins used the wave like a ramp to launch out of the water on either side of me, almost touching distance, scared the bujeezus out of me before that gave wave to wonder and then looking down the line of the wave to see another dolphin doing the same.
Didn't have any shark encounters.
In the springtime, there is bioluminescence and if you go out at night, you can watch the waves light up when they break, or see glowing tracers behind your hand as you wave it through the water. Maybe that was an exceptional thing when I was there 20 years ago for college, but it was really neat.
That pretty core, Beardbro, even on a sponge ;-)
There are some big fish out there. When the giant squid make an annual visit to La Jolla Cove, so do the Whites.
Sorry to hear about your bud's boards being ripped off, O-man. Downright sucks.
Shot of a friend surfing New Jersey in winter.
And something a little warmer...
Nice description and diagram of how Blacks works Jefe. Looks legit to me. Seems like the waves bend more as the swell size goes up. The north peak is notorious for each wave of the set shifting further north. Double to triple overhead, when you go left you kick out to face a nice wall of whitewater unless you take the last wave of the set.
For twelve years I was lucky enough to be able to suit up at home and be in the water at Trestles in less than ten minutes.
This was my first custom board shaped my my bud Midget, rest in peace.
I brought in a 70's single fin I'd been riding and asked him to base a thruster off of it. This is what I got. It was a gem. I sold it, along with most of my boards, when I hurt my back and needed money. I actually Made money off that damn board! Many, many years later my bro in Morro Bay sent me a cell phone pic of the board. A gal had bought it used in San Diego and loved it.
I wonder where it is now...
The TRUE Church of the Green Cathedral is in that vid. Literally the Green Room (until it goes brown sucking sand at the end). Hallelujah! ;) gave me leg cramps just watching it....
I'm not good enough at climbing to make a valid comparison...climbing's what's keeping me going these days though. There is usually less blood with surfing unless you are over coral reef.
Next to impossible to improve on that video, but I think you all might get a kick out of this sequence. Dan Dowden at Resturants. Think I got the order right...
It's been hit or miss this summer wave season.
I have been going over to the west side several times a week and haven't really scored that well over there so far.
I am stoked to have hooked up with an old friend that's getting back into the sport and he is really stoked. Splitting the fuel takes the sting out of getting skunked. Plus he likes to take his van and just picks me up and drops me off.
There is sweet inspiration for me all up and down this thread. From O'man's shots of "waterman" and Tim's project, to Pyro's morning session shot, to the sweet memories of Drljefe's shot. Even Peter Han's pieces of art (you win the surreal as sh1T award). I'll have to throw my personal project up one day. Another inspiration is my friend Toby. I never have or ever will surf the kind of waves Toby likes to get on. This is just a shot (not my shot) with a nice angle. Toby in the Tropics, from a few years back.
Sweet!! It's all good, especially if your stuck in California. One of my favorite sessions ever was day before Christmas on a shoulder high day with only a good buddy of mine and myself in the lineup. Longboarding/trimming with the lip cracking at our hips and a light breeze blowing through the hair; just me and Steve. It's what the free ride was all about.
Well, with the passing of legendary surf shooter, Sonny Miller, and the start of the contest at J Bay, here's epic footage from one of the best surf vids of all time, Searching for Tom Curren.
Featured is a short interview with Sonny and footie of Curren's very first wave at J Bay.
The master of the righthand point at the world's best righthand point.
I wore this VHS tape out...but still have it cuz it's so good!
The first round of the J Bay contest ran last night in pumping conditions.
If you're a night owl and like watching surf contests, don't miss it.
Here's the link
Sonny was a local legend here in Encinitas.
BBQ with him at his place "Rancho Relaxo" in Elfin Forrest just before all the fires here in north county last month.
Rancho Relaxo survived but not much else around it.
Sonny was a kind caring man with plenty of character in his personality. His garage is a museum of filming and water housing equipment from the past 30 years. He traveled the globe filming the elite surfers of the world while still caring for his sick mother. He was a great man in my eyes just from the short time I had the pleasure to spend with him.
Nice, T2.
Those kind of losses can really rock the community, and not just our small beach towns, globally.
It's obvious that he was a classic character and a quality human.
Fortunately for us, as an artist he leaves behind an amazing body of work and vivid documents of standout people, places, and eras in surfing.
Any time your close to getting shacked you are surfing. In my way of looking at things, that is.
You should see Josh rip on a snort board.
He is also a three time "world champion" wave sailor and an all around great guy!
Glad you liked the sequence, O-man. It's one of the sickest I've been given. As you might of guessed by now, I shape and many of these shots are from guys on their travels. What can I say, I beg for photo's. It's one of the few ways I can add to the site. Here's one of a 10 year old Tristin on a 4'7" at a local San Diego Reef. It's waist to shoulder for me, and overhead for him. How lucky can a guy get...always at least head high lol!
Central Coast heavily localized reef pumping off its face.
Pissed off carpenters, Whites, and shallow unpredictable sections make this place
Heavy.
I saw some ugly sh¡t go down in and out of the water, by both man and Mother Nature.
I knew Jay from many, many years ago. I took this shot right after he joined the surf team (CME Surfboards in Van Nuys). He was just a young boy with tons of energy and fire, clearly evident even back then. His love of skating was also evident, even though our main focus was surfing. My only lasting memory is a "team trip" we took to Disneyland. I was in charge of keeping an eye on him. It was exhausting but loads of fun. Once the shop closed most of us went our separate ways. I never heard of or spoke to him since. Recently I joined facebook and many of the guys from the team were on it and through being their friend I kept seeing his name pop up as a "you may know...." person. I never connected with him and I now wish I had.
Regards,
Douglas
Douglas. I think a lot of people wished to contact him and say thanks for the good times and inspiration. I guess it's just another lesson to reach out while you can. Thanks for the story.
thanks for posting about Jay. Jay was just a little before my time when I started skating, but I have a really old Skateboard Mag with an interview with him that I'll always cherish.
love the outlaw skaters/surfers/punks like Jay and Duane Peters
I live 4 blks from the beach in Santa Monica (south side, other side of the tracks). The waves breaking were so loud that it woke me up in the middle of the night.
I went down to take a look this morning before going into work and I saw a bunch of surfers running out to the water and then when they saw the waves they just sat on the beach and watched. The few guys that were out there seemed to be waiting for the smaller waves to catch, the big ones were just breaking too quickly.
the Wedge was pretty big today, the beach packed with people, everybody raising their phones overhead to take pics/ vids.[Click to View YouTube Video] ... more than the board hijinks, I appreciated the commitment to go down with the ship at the end.
I emailed my boss at 9:30 on Wednesday night (AUG 27), I had an unexpected personal emergency pop up and I would need to miss work on Thursday.
My personal emergency was that Matunuck RI was pumping. 4'-10' faces, offshore winds, perfect swell direction to produce endless left point breaks and two-way peaks. Surfed my 5'6" clone of a CI Average Joe and then a 6'7" egg that catches waves you don't even want. Surfed it with my daughter, who is going to UCSD in a few weeks. Good training for when La Jolla Shores gets decent or small Black's.
We stayed Wednesday night in New Haven CT, right on Yale's campus. Drove into town @ 1:00 am just in time to see a couple of co-eds puking their brains out on Broadway. Apparently all the parties let out right then.
Thank you Cristobal (though a terrible name for a hurricane). Going to the Gunks this weekend because the surf will not be too good.
Surfing v. Climbing... Mutually exclusive pursuits in my case.
Darwin, I think Malibu and his favorite Zuma and Dume were really flat then. Summer maybe. That must have been 1970? I stayed at Lon's house down there but we went climbing instead. I think the place is called Malibu Creek these days and has become an actual climbing area, though it is at least as loathsome as Pinnacles and is a much tinier area.
I think the last time I went surfing with Lon Porter was Rivermouth when it still would break back then. Winter of 1972?? He soon got very very sick from the water flooding from the San Lorenzo River---plastic septic tanks bumping along the beach even during the worst of the it--- and was hospitalized then soon taken home to Malibu by family. The provost of our college John Dizikes even came to my house to drag him to Dominican Hospital. Lon recovered of course and still surfs today, I see from stuff online. And he seems to still be married to that girl DeeDee. He was a really good surfer and could ride anything. He had been surfing since he was like three years old. His Dad even surfed way into his doddering years. An old Malibu family, they knew everyone there.
But look; Lon continued on of course and was the subject of two bubblegum trading cards down there. I think he would be 65 now.
Conditions in SoCal look primo, but isn't this like an average winter day at ocean beach?
Size wise, maybe, yeah.
Every winter up north has "that" day.
The hype is the swell angle
combined with size and conditions.
When spots that never break or that are usually sh!tty closeouts are perfect and holding at triple overhead, it's definitely special.
And from first hand accounts and all the footage I've seen, all the hyperbole looks and sounds justified.
Conditions in SoCal look primo, but isn't this like an average winter day at ocean beach? What's all the hype?
It is the swell direction and location (Southern California). Between the islands off the So Cal Coast blocking swell from various locations, and Point Conception, this is a pretty rare event for So Cal. Spots have lit up that many people don't even know about. Crazier stuff has happened during other big south swells this time of year. 1975 I think, a September swell hit and for a day or so lit up the remaining section of reef at Killer Capo to triple overhead. It's a big mushey wave so no big deal right? It just happens to be located right at the mouth of the Dana Point Harbor. Boats of various sizes were stacked up in a circular pattern trying to time the run in through the harbor mouth with about 20 guys in the water. It was pretty wild and crazy out there. My first 18 foot face waves ever. The third reef at Cottons was breaking, so it was a pretty amazing swell for lefts, although the peak at the harbor mouth was a Right.
Drljefe. The 1975 swell was a combo hurricane and a large New Zealand ground swell. We had good waves in SC for 2 weeks. Everything changed day to day of course. Somewhere in that first week, the outside reef at Beach Road started going off. About 21 houses down from the North end, there showed up a big hollow left that would spit like a machine. We would check the road from Pines Park every day during the swell to try and learn something about what and where, and also thinking that this would be a more regular event than it turned out to be, Broke for 2 days then shut off and went back to the normal phufffffffff. Place scared the crap out of me, air drops in and solid double over head. Luckly, I never touched the reef the 2 days it broke.
My memory sucks, that's for sure. I used to keep a log, but that disappeared long ago apparently. That 1975 swell was September 20 - 29 or so. Everything is online now....the funny thing is no one mentions the Doheney/Dana Harbor boat jam. That I distinctly remember, because I missed one of Trestles and Cottons better days. I lived within view of Doho and that view of the peak breaking across the mouth of the harbor was what I woke up to. A couple boats have real close calls barely missing the jetty on the shorward side. Next day, my bud Tony and I were off to Trestles for much better waves and the scene at the harbor calmed down as the swell direction changed again.
Pyro. Nice video find. My son told me there is video of Laird shooting the pier on his SUP. I'll have to see if I can find that later.
I have a couple buddy's from stoney point who claimed they surfed on that big Wednesday! now I can tell em how old that news is!!!
Pretty f'ing funny!! I think this last swell came about as close to duplicating that '75 swell as you could get. That reef break became an obsession with me, and 39 years later it finally broke again. And it sounds like it went OFF.
Friggen Norbert is going to ruin my Sunday Tahquitz plans. Thing is going to fall apart and roll over So Cal. Oh well, we DO need the rain. I'd better get together a plan B fast; Since it's going to be tropical around here, Margarita's!
Name the spot. A good left breaks between the jetties on big winter swells(?, I think winter...It's been 30 years) . You can see them peaking but not breaking in this photo. Currents were an issue, but they also contributed to the break, I think.
My surfing buddy Mark S. got one of the best wave I've ever seen on a right at the North Jetty. I got one of the 'waves of my life' and another wipeout of my life between the jetties
photo courtesy of Google. I have not idea if cutting a pasting it is legal. Sorry if it's not.
It was fickle, a LONG drive for most, and I figure it could hardly be a secret spot; so yes you both got it. I think it would be called Humboldt Bay Harbor Mouth. It's funny, South Jetty back in the 70's had an intense local vibe with rumors of windows being shot out of cars. I never surfed that side.
Took day off and went surfing yesterday with my daughter (always a good thing). Scored 4'-8' Point Judith RI. We surfed that left hand reef break most of the day. Too bad the swell peaked in the middle of the night from hurricane Eduardo. That's Block Island way off in the distance.
Pyro, this was medium Wednesday! Big Wednesday, in 1973 I think, had waves scraping the bottom of Malibu pier and displacing the deck of the pier. 20+ foot backs, not this little 7 foot stuff you are showing in that video. So this swell was kinda no news at all in comparison. Have you ever watched the movie Big Wednesday?
Water 67 F
Air 65 - 75 F
Off-shore winds
Low tide going high
Was probably 4'-6' with the occasional plus set.
Very pleasant.
Pyro, this was medium Wednesday! Big Wednesday, in 1973 I think, had waves scraping the bottom of Malibu pier and displacing the deck of the pier. 20+ foot backs, not this little 7 foot stuff you are showing in that video. So this swell was kinda no news at all in comparison. Have you ever watched the movie Big Wednesday?
The movie 'Big Wednesday' was filmed at Ollie's Point in Nic and Costa. The big wave scenes were filmed in Hawaii with George Greenough doing most of the water work.
G_Gnome is talking about that September 1975 swell. THe famed New Zealand Swell that combined with a hurricane that swung out from Baja into So CAL window, giving us some of the best surf ever and lasting for over a week. Even Dohoney was punchy and totally shortboardable ...and this was single fin Parrish style shortboards. As to the 20 foot backs at Malibu, that sounds a little overstated to me. Hey, but I wasn't there. THe largest stuff I saw in SC or LB was a little over 20 ft faces; solid triple overhead for me.
The movie 'Big Wednesday' was filmed at Ollie's Point in Nic and Costa. The big wave scenes were filmed in Hawaii with George Greenough doing most of the water work.
great trip , lots of waves, cool people ( except punta roca ) unfortunatley ended a few days early when i ruptured my bicep tendon while duck- diving a large set wave. sucks to get old. backside hack by local ripper samuel , i'm the old f*#k dropping in. out of the water and off the crag for a couple of months uuuuugggg!!!!
unfortunatley ended a few days early when i ruptured my bicep tendon while duck- diving a large set wave. sucks to get old.
Uggg. So sorry to hear this, Eastside... I hope you heal up soon.
Funny story about our trip to Sano last week:
I watched Jefe surf for hours, he waving to me from the line up, me waving back from the edge of the sea,excitedly. Super helpful in figuring out which one of those wetsuits is the guy you want to watch.
Watched Jefe catch and surf some great waves, he and I "keeping in touch" from afar. I was able to figure out WHICH one he was, mainly based on how he paddled, duck-dived, and sat on his board, for long stretches at a time. I was excited for him, out there in the vast openness, respecting the power of the waves and making the most of that power. I had a great f*#king time.
Still standing on the shoreline, staring intensely at the line up, I waved my arms up in the air, waiting for Jefe to wave back, positive I had the right surfer. And as I'm waving, standing in the ocean, I hear off to my right, "Babes?", Jefe carrying his board, walking towards me, smiling.
solid snap above, so stoked on surfing right now as the papa buoy is blowing up.
wish everyone a safe, bountiful harvest of waves this winter. paddle with intension, deep into the bowl, and smile at the crew to share the stoke.
My son asked what my favorite toy is and I said "son, a surfboard is the best toy ever"
Biggest swells I can remember growing up surfing in the South Bay were the winters of 82-3 and 86. I think it was 82-3 that damaged the Hermosa and Manhattan piers, and blew out windows at the Charthouse in front of the RB Breakwall.
And sadly, saw a guy drown at the PV Cove in 86 while watching from up on the cliff.
Kathode, it is actually max at 8 ft, and now dwindling through the day. But it is quite a bit better than it has been for months.
It seems like the place is not the same classy break it was forty years ago much of the time. The sand coming around the corner sometimes really helps though and the slot and point can clean up. The ASP Championship isn't even going there anymore. Now it's a Specialty event, The Coldwater Classic.
Yeah kind of a bummer this morning....word obviously got out and every where is PACKED. The double overhead sets are only coming every once in awhile. Oh well there are still waves!!! I'm going out later when the tide drops and people start to burnout for the day. Yeeeeeeeeewwwww!!
opened the mailbox last night received my copy of surf magazine.
nice read up on "Big Wednesday 2014"
sweet looking pictures and some historical stuff.
Darwin. It's a bit south of Humbolt. Pillar Point at the North end of Half moon bay.
Gopro's wierdly distort the waves so often you can't tell how big the wave was. Tube shots from behind or hand/mouth held seem to be the best. THat and the squirrel suit shots. My son messing around with his gopro.
A friend of mine riding a 6'4" I made him at a spot just below the UCSD campus. Photo by Dylan Hadley. That whole curtain fell in front of him and he had to punch thru the thing. You can just see it starting to form. Brant making the most of the end of the day at Blacks. Dylan just nailed the color.
My kid came back from surfing today and said he lost track on how many barrels he came out of. Just a big smile on his face! Looks like today is a clean, fun day out in SD. It's cool when something the kid likes stokes him out so much. These are definitely some of his better days.
Jefe. Today it was Torrey Pines. Very tidally dependent and likes 2 to 3 foot high tide in or out. Still fickle as hell though and blows out super fast. But he surfs blacks and various reefs in La Jolla, depending upon the day. He's been dealing with depression and anxiety, so some days he is not up for dealing with the crowds.
Yea the board. Tails kinda trippy, no? It's a double gun tail essentially. One of my designs. Check out the tail of this 10"6" Todos gun and you'll see what I mean.
edit; I guess it's hard to tell 'cause of the scale of the board, but I tend to put an ellipse at the end of big wave boards rather than a point, unless they ask for a point. It's not the point that holds, its the width of the tail and the rail profile that make the board hold.
Combining in such a way as to enhance or emphasize the qualities of each other or another:
they had different but complementary skills
the second TV network was complementary to the BBC
They don't necessarily have to be similar but add up to a whole (well actually a straight line).
Moss Landing enjoys its location at the mouth of the Monterey Canyon on days like this. The vast submarine trench feature reaches depths of 6,000 feet quite quickly off the beach. Google it, people. Amazing. The break can get 15+ feet and have that shape on rare occasions. It can be quite hairy out there when large, currents, shifts in the peak, the break itself, the aquatics... you could encounter anything out there not far from the beach.
Yeah, Jefe. There is a new swell, floppy currently of course. The Lane will be 12 ft this afternoon, already about 7 ft at high tide of 5.25'; the required low tide (.27' today) at 2:29pm). Probably will get wasted by a strong 14k south wind for a few hours midday maybe improving later. The surf-cam for the Lane is actually kind of fun already. I suspect if it actually glasses off partly this evening, it might get epic.
The Monterey Canyon, worth a good look. It is hundreds of feet deep ½ mile off the beach and leads right up to Moss Landing/Elkhorn Slough. and more than a mile deep in a couple more miles. Pretty dramatic
EDIT So much for an evening glass-off. The Lane is in total useless chaos this evening. AT least something is happening though. It had been basically flat for quite a while.
Thanks Charles. I was kind of just venting, but then drljefe responded. I try to add something positive to this site, but I tend to suck at climbing and know more about surfing so....it is what it is. Just remember when you hit it Thursday, to not just rush out there all pumped up. Make sure you scope out at east one full set cycle to see how things are moving. You got full situational awareness then and you are good to go.
A little more about Torry Pines, and I'm sure Charles will back me up on this. Torry can get good; and I mean solid overhead, meaty dredging barrels where you will be punished for mistakes kind of good. And then it can suck. Usually it kind of sucks, so because of ease of access it is just one of those spots to be aware of.
Surfing and Climbing; Both can demand full commitment to pull something off, both require situational awareness, both are fun as hell but in totally different ways.
A nice overview of Monterey Bay, Peter. It helps explain many of the breaks out there. I used to go up there a lot, even in summer. Since I'd be surfing by myself usually, in Summer I'd hit Ano Nuevo. There is a dune complex on the cliffs above a south facing beach where it blows off shore most of the time. I would spend about 30 min with my binoculars checking the shore and water for signs of the men in the grey suites, and if it looked good I would usually be alone in the water. There was one time I was out catching the rights and I don't know why, but in my mind I had to get out of the water. Totally spooked and I never saw anything. But the rest of the times I paddled out felt fine. Elephant seals on the beach would be an automatic no go for me.
Garth Englehorn at Todos on a Brewer this time :(
And on one of mine :)
Enough of the bullsh#t, check out this wall of whitewater
skcreidic, would you be up for shaping an Ocean Beach minigun/gun? 8' or 8'6", thick enough for a 195 pound guy to paddle fast so he can go get 'em... 14 years surfing OB, and I have yet to find the right board for me.
And since i notice you're a SD guy, I should point out that I'm talking about the real Ocean Beach, not the one you've got down there. ;-)
Charles and Gregory, I'm stoked you'd be interested in my sticks. Would love to make you each boards when you are ready. Getting them to you may be an involved process depending upon timing, or if you are willing to pay for shipping.
I figured it was that OB. I'm somewhat familar with the place. Heavy water, lots of paddling, usually with texture on the surface.
I generally build customs. As such we will need to talk so I can get a sense of your surfing. This influences the bottom contours. So Gregory, what's the deal with these other guns you been getting? Upside vs downside on 'em. That's the kind of info I need to dial you in better, but in general my current guns are double enders(nose same width as tail dim) with emphasis on paddling and ease of ride. If you are serious, email me at cdiercks@yahoo.com and put OB gun in the subject and we will go from there. I'm pretty underground, but here is my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/CDiercksSurf?ref=hl
Gregory, FYI this is an 8'2" by 3 by 19 I just finished up
those look like great boards, I live up in humboldt and surf the jetty and an 8'0 is a good work horse
winter board. Volume is my friend cus the currents and paddling. would love to host you and your son if you want to go on a nor cal surf trip. all the low pressure systems bring south wind and off shore conditions. The harbor has an amazing sand bar this year.
Keeping with my recent theme of posting up guns, here's 10'0" I shaped for Eric. A lot more guys out in the water on the big stuff now days. Anyone else here? Post up some shots of your favorite spear. Anyone on any modern Brewer's or (Gary)Linden's? It's called inspiration; never know where you are going to get it from.
^^^cool
surfline claims Ocean Beach SF is 18'-20'. Yeeehaaaa. Should be an easy paddle out, eh?
I just watched "Chasing Mavericks" from Netflix. I wasn't sure what to expect, but it was OK. It's NOT a documentary and seems to have contrived sentimentality, but it has some OK surfing. I've watched way worse movies. I wouldn't mind hearing what the Santa Cruz locals have to say about it.
... edit
Man it's been too long since I've surfed and I'm not sure when/if it'll happen again. Catching those web cams when a set appears on the horizon, my heart still goes pitter patter, and then POUND POUND POUND. But it still works on me.
Sunset Cliffs local Barry Ault dies of Staff infection after surfing throughout the last storm. Be carefull when and where you paddle out. This guy was 70 and went out all the time. A real inspiration for everyone else. RIP Barry
Yeah, very true, skcreidc. Staph btw. as in Staphylococcus
A friend of mine, a renown Malibu surfer nearly died from surfing dirty water coming out of the San Lorenzo River here in Santa Cruz, forty years ago, back when it was not so widely known how polluted most of rivers et al are after big rains.
We all surfed these spots back then and only partly understanding how high the risks were. It was just unlucky that Lon got sick or perhaps that the rest of us were lucky to have not sickened! I remember a couple cheapo plastic septic tanks bobbing around in the surf after one of the bigger rains, even.
^^^^^^ that puts those boys at Victoria Beach to shame!
Peter, thanks for that last post. That stuff is something to think about. In my 30's, I picked up a case of viral meningitis surfing during and after storm events. Nasty stuff.
After watching the skimboarding vids, I thought you all might get a kick out of this. Pretty damn cool and inventive stuff. Hope you enjoy. Love the way the guy uses a SUP to lanch off into the wave from.
Compared to the shot above, this video makes this place look kind of out of control. The submarine canyon that feeds this place doesn't seem to filter much out. The nature of the swell seems to have a larger impact on how clean it is I guess. Even without this wave, Portugal seems like a real surf mecca. Video is a from a gopro. If you are interested in this spot, it's worth a look.
Defending Gold Medalist from Argentina, Leandro Usuna, cracks a turn off the top of the lip en route to a heat win and the Men’s Main Event Semifinal on Sunday. Photo: ISA/Ben Reed
I think surfing is better at energy expenditure, what with the paddling, and sitting in cold water and being in a slightly more draining environment. Climbing on the other hand can either be very expending or not at all. I mean my own little boulder patch is just a 10 minute walk up a slight hill from the parking lot.
Also you can't smoke and drink on your board, so you might as well leave that stuff in the car. In bouldering we are always drinking and smoking so we resort to mountainous places to get some sort of workout to make up for all the beer we drink.
The best thing at the end of a surf day is getting a fat burrito at the nearest taco stand, not impossible with climbing, just not as much in your face. When you're driving away from the beach you pretty much have to weave your way through taco shops just to get home.
Has anyone seen someone light up while out on a board?
^^^^^used to fire up plenty, especially on smaller days. People are more inventive than you think when it comes to that. I even knew a guy who used to tie a six pack of cans up to the buoy at one spot I went to frequently...
"Doesn't it slow you down?" "Nah, just throw two whites into the mix"
And of course everybody knows about John Peck and the unnamed Wedge surfer and their enhanced experience proclivities.
John Hanks and Richard Joly opened a surfboard manufacturing shop at 245 Palm Avenue (IB) in 1962. This is an example of a “well-used” board. John was 17 years old and Richard was 16 years old. Manufactured in 1963.
EDIT: Not my board, but I was friends with John & Richard & (sort of) Geoff. Sadly Joly & Hanks are no longer with us. Don't know about Logan. The board is in the IB surf museum. Wish I had saved the old red Gordon & Smith.
I have been knowing this man since he was eight years old.Kai has come a long way and is just hitting his stride. He would be a super star in any arena.
Got up this morning with the kiddo, made coffee, read the news and watched the Fanning video. Yeeee-ikes.
Oh well, it's head high and offshore at the local point. Went for a surf.
A couple weeks ago I took the family exploring by some undeveloped cliffs. Good looking lines out there, but yeeee-ikes. Climbing feels like an unjustified risk these days.
Albee is so inspirational and committed to the proudest line under the ledge.
looking forward to el nino and that new 7'10''
I was meditating on the idea that water shaped the stones that we climb and stones shape the
waves we ride. peace from a beautiful morning in Index, WA
O-Man, is that today with the hurricane passing by?
As you can see it's pretty quiet here on the north shore Of Maui at the moment. Forecast is that things are about to change. I am expecting some rain, maybe strong wind, and extreme humidity. Waves should be picking up today but the ocean will probably be a big sloppy mess with the energy too close to generate a clean fetch.
John Braxton of HI was attacked by a tiger shark yesterday. Gnarley video; but the dude maintained composure after being hit hard on the left leg. Apparently, the Kapaau man was attacked while spearfishing off the north shore of the Big Island of Hawaii.
It has always struck me as interesting that there are so many climber taken photos from the era and earlier.
Contrast with surfing, where the photos appear to mostly have been generated by photographers.
My take is that if a surfer got a hold of a camera, it would be sold for a new board or perhaps other paraphernalia. :)
Surfin' USA .. er .. K38.5 Baja - 1964 (as they say on Youtube, rare)
Roger. I think that part (most) of the difference does in fact turn on money.
Money started chasing surfers around in the early sixties (Bruce Brown, John Severson, Bud Browne ... films), Surfer Magazine photos paid for etc.
Doubtful that climbing ever got the same type of big dollar involvement, right?
Just to be clear, surfers didn't bother much with recording since they knew someone else was (and being "pros" probably doing a better job of it). Climbers made their own history.
Also, my own subjective impression based upon what could be a faulty sample, the population of ne'er-do-wells was (is?) significantly higher among surfers than climbers. Complementary pursuits?
Fronm Tony - K38.5 circa 1966?
Cool Tony!
CV/IB folks are generally credited with colonizing K38.5. My friend Lyle's parents had a trailer just up the road apiece and DC practically lived there.
No Ooli Rock in your photo. The person I always associated with dynamiting it has stated that it wasn't him. Nobody seems to recall. Someone even asked "are you sure it's gone'?
How about K72? No pics but in high school we would hit La Calafia(sp?), K38,K72 and finish at the SanMiguelZone for spring breaks/summer holidays. Baja is a golden zone. Just gotta be coo, lay low and dig!
edit:
On topic:
Similar, in that personal style dictates lines, fluidity and success.
Complementary in that one takes place on a solid medium that is seen/felt as flow through our bodies and the other that is within a fluid environment and again our bodies act with fluidity; this all equals shredding Bra!
I have been hanging out Playa Guiones Costa Rica for the past week with my lovely girlfriend. I have scored everything from wonderful yoga at the Nosara Yoga Institute with my gal to 5' -12' warm water surf.
Got a buddy from Cardiff meeting me today. We are thinking of getting a boat charter out of Tamarindo to go surf Witches Rock
I have enjoyed pretty much all aspects of climbing in the past 30 years. Free climbing to a modest level, Big walls, Alpine/Mountaineering routes and of coarse steep Ice. Spent a bunch of money on travel, time and the wide range of gear needed to experience these disciplines of climbing. I must say that at this point in my life the pure enjoyment and level of fun that surfing (and skydiving for that matter) gives me, is considerably different than what i am getting out of climbing. Don't get me wrong I will climb till the day i die on some level and will all ways enjoy it. But man the surf in Costa Rica really paid back dollar for dollar in comparison to a international trip equivalent with climbing.
^^^^ That is great ekat. I grew up in and graduated from Incline High. For me the surf was never a consideration to be ridden. The Hatchett Bros I believe surfed the lake a couple times back then just to say. Great photo!
Some more Central America love in honor of the adventurous Aussie mate's that had problems in Sinaloa Mex. Surf on Brothers!!!!!
Is there any coatal Granite above Santa Cruz? I surf IB to Oceanside and love the close proximity of granite to the surf. Once you get towards San Clemente and North it seems like all you get is dirt clods.
I surfed Eureka before I was climbing and don't have a recollection of the rock.
I think Warbler dropped a hint on rock near surf in baja. My guess would be Catavina area, perhaps Conoas?
I know people climb near Lover's Beach in Cabo but I remember that rock being pretty gtitty (pre climbing days) plus too far.
Ocean Beach SF has been going off!!! Noriega is as close to a home break as I had. It's not an easy place to learn even when it's small. I spent countless hours doing what the photographer did: scan up and down the beach looking for the perfect sections. They were there, but boy did the peaks shift.
Contractor. Especially on the big gun (regular Blacks gun is more personal taste), shift the foil to thicker under your chest. So for instance, the 2 feet forward of Center should be thicker (not by a whole lot about 1/8 inch max at least) than the 2 feet behind center with the thickest part of the board forward of center. The rest can be a double ender, or have the tail slightly thicker. Works especially well with a relaxed entry rocker (just make sure there is a little roll vee in the nose after glassing): fast and paddles like crazy. Like the width! Especially for the Sloughs.
I'm on board with your comments (no pun intended). I can tell you know what's up!
I weigh 155 and have surfed a 6-6 at Blacks well beyond double overhead so the 6-8 with extra liters will get me to the 7-6 I have.
I did roll some V on the nose of the 9-2. All the Sloughs guys say the same thing- good call. I also eliminated concave past the front foot but there a slight single concave starting mid board transitioning to some crazy double concave and a V out the tail. It's a little wide for Todos but it's made for Sloughs and Little Makaha.
I used to Cary the thickness up under my chest but I've started to pack the volume in the center of the board and blade out the nose and tail for better rebound. It definitely helps on my short boards but may not work on a 9-2 (my fist gun shape).
Skcreidc's bullshit "theory" of modern rhino-chaser foils (foil being thickness flow generally along the stringer)
Goal: volume/rocker to get you in that wave before you get launched, and in a manner in which you do not pearl on the way down.
When paddling a 9, 10, or 11' board, you are not paddling over the spot near which you will stand to ride thing. You are pretty far forward of it, and when you hop to your feet you actually jump back a fair amount. If you doubt this, take a 9' longboard out and belly paddle the thing into a few waves. Basically, the meat of the board is forward for better paddling. This has two extra added benefits; first, when you hop up the volume is slightly forward of your stance making it harder to pearl no matter what the wave is throwing at you (all shorts of wind chop and varying degrees of double and triple ups ect.) Second, because the volume is slightly forward, you can lower the entry rocker even more (taking into account the bottom of the board) to allow for even easier paddle-ins and shorter boards. Why shorter boards on big waves? Well, because no matter what size wave you are on, man-handling a 10 or 11 foot board that is 3.5+ inches thick is no easy task. The main use of a board that size is just to get you in the wave. After that, you'd wish the thing would shrink a bit for riding the wave. Ask the tow-in guys.
There are actually more benefits to this kind of foil in a gun, but these are the "big" ones....maybe another day if anybody actually gives a damn.
I've done both machine and hand. You have to be on the cutters for machine cuts. Things can go out of specs fast and I always ordered my cuts an inch longer so I could fix stuff in the templates, rocker, and foil. Right now just handshapes.
I never needed a gun.
My step up was a 6'6 Midget Smith(rip), still with a squash.
I hardly ever rode it- occasionally at Park, and one memorable Blacks day, probably recounted somewhere in this thread.
I also had a 7'4 Rick Rock/Watermans Guild pin. Now that board worked but again, rarely rode it- I can remember one post storm night at absolutely macking Uppers, just me and Herbie in the water. Probably the only time I ever got a little scared at the point.
Being primarily a Trestles surfer I rode short squat boards no matter how big it got.
I never really dug standard shortboards.
Now that I live in the desert and only surf a few times a year if that, I dream of a lifetime trip to Indo and think about what board(s) I would need or take. For barreling waves and something I could ride in a variety of conditions, I'd probably order a stock Black Beauty.
The boards I have left:
5'11x21 Xanadu pop out keel- stashed in San Clemente. Main rider. Turns Sano into Trestles.
9'2 Hobie round pin pro hand-me-down. Not high performance and not traditional,good glass , just right for glassy micro peelers.
5'11 Mayhem RNF twin with trailer. The closest I have to a traditional shortboard in dims and glassing. Can switch between this and the Xanadu easily. More for the beachbreak.
6'0 Tyler Deuce prototype, "The Exterminator". Right before fishes became too popular, this was my rider. People thought it was a knee board. Lighter glass, not clunky rails, epic glass on keels. Just plain and excellent. By the time it was done, fishes were all the rage but they were all to heavy, super expensive, blinged out pinstripes, and just a little lame- all fad, not rad, made me sad. And every dork had one. They became the new longboard, and the focus of hate at the marquee spots I surfed. That's when I got the pop out keel, f*#k it. It was light and stiff and white and almost indestructible. But I must apologize to you, Chris, someone who actually shapes, and even you, contractor, and your cnc's....still more soul than a surftech.
6'3x21 70's Gabe Garduque Hawaiian Spirit single fin, small swallow, with "jets"- early channels. F*#king loved riding that board at Lowers...oh god, to bottom turn on that thing again...just before retro got super popular.
7'2 70's pin, triple stringer. Wallhanger.
And contractor- your question about rock/surf....
Rainbow/OSide was the best combo.
There's Rincon/Gibraltar
Malibu Creek/Secos
Some climbing in SLO and Big Sur too.
But Rainbow and afternoon RJ....awww man....f*#king miss those days.
Well I'd be lying if I said it didn't have something to do with Curren worship lol!
Just the outline, the tail, a little extra meat...I know it would work for me- mostly for hollow waves, personally, but a good travel board for variety of waves and size.
hey contractor , to answer your question I don't know of any nor-cal coastal granite. the only nor-cal granite i know of is the trinity alps ,not too close to the coast and ive only been there once hiking so sorry not much help. Really like your board design I need to get something in the 6'4" range . I tend to ride bigger boards, being old and weak. My favorite ride is a 7"10" Wellman fron Kauai, when the above spot starts to work ,its a big water wave , and the extra foam really can come into play for me. cheers edit: Holy sh#t ! just looked at the forcast for next week looks like it's going to be pumping! time to dust off Mr. Wellman ..... ho mon!!!
My old man, now in his 90's, used to shape his own boards as a teenager and surf down around La Jolla. Best times were just before or after a storm, says he. Used spar varnish for waterproofing, and says Duke was a strong influence on them way back when (though they never actually met, of course). Sure wish he'd taught me.
Pretty amazing stuff.
Dorian's wave in the morning before the contest started was incredible.
Massive barrels, crazy wipeouts- all live. Pretty nerve wracking at times.
Definitely different than watching a video where you know the outcome.
Props to the safety crew and the local boys who owned it.
was skiing most of the day flipped the contest on right when kai lenny and the jet ski driver had a vicious wipeout.....heavy....loved Albe layers double flip off claim in the barrel...classic
Both are exceptional in solitude and terrible with crowds. In solitude, many things change.
Some of the best times I remember surfing are in solitude (from humans) and the surf conditions were decent. I felt more connected to the Ocean, as if I could feel it's emotions. It was difficult for me to find an isolated beach in S. California whenever the surf conditions were decent but if you don't mind paddling out under the cover of darkness (with sharks feeding) it is possible. Surfing was an easier sport to do with a very limited budget.
Some of the best times I remember climbing are the same; solo climbing with nothing but nature in earshot or eyesight. I lived in the high desert for years and desert solitude became my spiritual source. The logistics of making climbing your life may be more difficult to achieve.
Does each compliment the other? Yes, if you get something spiritual from each. If you are simply trying to be the best skilled at one or the other, say for competition, then focusing on a single sport [social group, lifestyle, dedicated resources, etc..] is likely a better choice.
when this thread started back in 2012, it was a big factor in making me want to try surfing. now three years in, it is one of the very few threads I still check in on. we had a great late august in new england this year, but doesn't compare to the beautiful stuff posted here. so travel (just like climbing!). just back from our second trip to rincon pr and trying to negotiate a trip to bali for sept. I don't know if surfing and climbing for me have been as much complimentary as they are equally addictive and all consuming. keep the inspiration coming
Just picked up my new 9'-3 Sloughs gun from the glasser.
I designed this board on a CADD program and emailed the file to a C&C shop- all while drinking coffee at home.
I hope it's big enough tomorrow!!! Mavricks was solid and the contest went off.
Next year the Coastal Commission may require a women's bracket. I'm pretty sure there's enough women, that are serious big wave surfers, to make that happen.
Board came out nice Contractor! Just curious...do you know if Jeff Meyers is still airbrushing at that factory? You made it sound so easy to pop out with that software, but I have seen very experienced software users completely screw up large guns. So kudos to the work you put in on the models you make for yourself. And don't forget that someone still had to finish sand that beast before glassing :)
The cut shop I use, ordered the blank with a recommendation from Stu Kenson, who makes big wave guns for some notable surfers. In other words-I have no idea.
Thanks for the answer contractor. Jeff's always been a good guy as far as I can tell. Good to know he's still at it. When I had sprayed maybe 10 boards at most, the shop I was spraying for gave me a purple to yellow rail fade to spray. As yellow and purple make brown, I was not too sure how to make this look good. The shop owner told me that Jeff would show me how and that he was down at the spray booth right now so I could catch him. First time I met him, he showed me the technique and it came out sweet. The guy has a way with color fades for sure.
Contractor could have picked up a blank at Mitch's LJ or SB. You can get US Blanks at Mitch's. Most of the crew from the old Clark factory in Laguna Niguel formed the new US Blanks in a new location. Good blanks and the best gun blank selection, but upstart Arctic Blanks may have the best poly foam formulation in the USA now. Super lively for a poly. Originally a US branch of Surfblanks Aus (Midget Farrelly), the old formula had problems with gas pocket formulation and investors got impatient, called in some other chemists, and reformulated under the Arctic brand. I know if you went to them, they would sell you a blank too.
edit; AA. The shoulder is slowly getting better, but I have a feeling that it may take surgery. Set up another Dr. appointment. Still, I can only wait so long so I'm starting to get out again. Maybe some more Woodson in a week or so.
So, there has been some signs of surf ;-) ...In two separate events
So, tides are minimal near the equator, and higher near the poles.
I understand that swell and architecture of the break play the largest role in good breaks, but does the range from high to low tide also factor in?
Like, big swell is hitting two places on earth at the same time. One place is in Ireland and the other is in Costa. Same architecture (maybe a stretch). Full moon. Tide is coming in. Same winds.
Does Ireland get bigger and or better waves than CR due to a larger tidal differential?
No not really. You need a swell source. Either wind or ground swell, the difference between the 2 being the fetch and distance traveled. Wind swells tend to be generated closer to the break and have shorter periods and tend to be less organized. Groundswell tends to be better organized and travel a longer distance. Throw in a hurricane or typhoon swell, and those two generalizations can fall apart sometimes in a good way.
Edit, some pretty epic spots close to the equator.
Brandon, just to clarify a few things. Basically, all rideable surf (except for tidal bores) is created by wind. Groundswell is generated by large storm systems a long ways away. Also fetch as I use it is the distance over which the wind blows over the water surface in the area of wave generation. But Fetch can also be used for the distance the waves travel to arrive for your surfing pleasure. Check out some oceanography for some real info!
la conchita best ive surfed it .eight guys out you can have Rincon Edit: little rincon,mussel shoals....
Ive been calling it la conchita since the seventies
Isn't La conchita the beach break north of the pier? Isn't the pier mussel shoals? Not entirely sure as I haven't surfed in years. Oil piers was one of my favorite spots. I mostly body surfed.
Is it true that they took out the pier at Oil Piers beach? Did that affect the break?
Wedgy beachbreaks can go from all time to nonexistent in the blink of an eye.
That's why I ended up drawn to that spot, aside from it being across the street.
The hunt- being in tune with conditions to catch it good, and the challenge of actually riding.
Especially after getting burnt out on the crowds and hype at the points for years.
I miss it sometimes.
And when I do visit I no longer have the skills, and need higher success rate...so I hit the points. There I can feel like Taj Burrow...even though I probably look like the Tin Man.
This is all I gots
This tiny summit block, "The Surfboard" actually rocks like a bongo board.
It deserved a pigdog for yucks.
Re: Little Rincon
SICK!
Parking was always an issue so I usually just joined the herd up the street.
Nice one ESU, score.
The talk of how waves form above is one of the really cool parts of surfing. There's so much to learn and you really have to let the ocean dictate where and when you catch a wave or even go out there.
A great piece of advice I got when first trying surfing was to sit on the beach and watch the waves, and good surfers vs. bad surfers, the timing of sets and waves within sets. For like 20 minutes before ever trying to go out for your first attempt.
I'm still a relative noob surfer, but I watch so many people out there who try to fight the ocean. The ocean wins every time. They just show up and charge right out there, sometimes right when a set is coming in and they fight their way thru it.
It's really rewarding to time the set. Paddle out on the outside in calm(ish) water. Have your session. Then ride a wave at the end of a set all the way in to shore. And walk out in calm(ish) water.
Some other sports have similar aspects. Mountaineering (skiing and climbing) you have to time the weather. And powder skiing requires a lot of good timing, and understanding timing in regards to avalanche conditions. But surfing is impossible without good timing.
All of North County was good. Didn't check down south.
Torrey Pines was super peaky and fun. Usually it tends to be walled there but the storm front kinda chopped all the lines up the day prior and left a bunch of big peaks to be had the next day. Nothing too huge but a good 2-3 ft overhead on the sets.
Going to Costa Rica next week, Playa Langosta. Spring break with the family has been in the works for like five months. CR north is usually pretty consistent this time of year with NW and SW swells. And it's been really good over the past few weeks, apparently. Arriving Saturday night and the swell is projected to drop to piddly 2 footers and stay that way for a week and then it's supposed to pick up again as we're flying out.
I just had these 2 made by Sean McCabe and Aloha glass. Both boards have the same volume of foam at a little over 37 liters. The 6'4 is 21" wide in the middle the 6'0 is 22". I traveled and surfed in Coasta Rica with Sean so I thought I would try his boards. [photoid=449441]
Surfed my whole life. Crowds really get frustrating. Waves aren't good when you can go and epic when you can't. Climbing is for the most part always available and has taken me under wing. I've had some amazing experiences on dry rock but none have quite matched those moments in a hollow barrel.
Surfboards I Have Loved: vol 1
THE HAWAIIAN SPIRIT
When I first moved to San Clemente I'd been surfing less than a year and was riding a 7'2 pointy fun shape thruster and a hand-me-down thruster longboard. They were good boards to learn on but my surfing had progressed and I wanted to surf differently than those boards allowed.
I was helping my cousin clear out a storage unit and scored this 70's single fin, which he had been using as a prop in the back of his '47 Merc Woody. I fixed the dings and waited for the day.
One day some friends stopped by and said Lowers was firing and empty. I had sold the 7'2 when I needed rent, and wasn't going to ride a longboard at Lowers, so it was time. I sanded my hasty ding repair, waxed up, and was ready.
I'd actually never surfed Lowers before, even living about as close to it as one could. It was a Marquee break usually teeming with pros and wanna-be pros, a world famous spot. On an ordinary day I'd have no place out there, and I knew it. But this afternoon it was empty, for whatever reason- pre surf cams and a sneaker swell, probably.
We made a quick drive-by check, got dropped off, made the hike, and there I was, on the cobblestones at the Point, and sure enough it was empty and perfect. I was with my main partner Elvis, his gal, and two pretty well known surfers- Matt and Britt, or "Rice and Beans". They were ground zero on the retro revolution. Full 70's hippies, just in their 20's. Not many people were riding vintage boards and they were stoked on the look of this board, drooling in fact. They couldn't paddle out fast enough. Me, I was a little nervous, but followed their lead.
The board paddled like it had a motor, with its low rocker, down rails, flat bottom, width and thickness, and with only one fin, less drag. It also had, what I later found out, were called "Jets", four channels angling out to the rails and baby swallow tail.
And there I was, finally out at The Point. The way sets would roll in and stand up, focusing on the point, was something I'd never experienced, only dreamed of. I dodged some and watched some, trying to get a feel. Really, the wave is a no-brainer it's so perfect, but I did not want to blow it. I really did not want to blow it. My friends got waves and left me out the back.
The feeling of being alone out the back and seeing a set coming is a feeling only a surfer knows. With crowds as they are, and at a premium and usually densely packed spot like Lowers, the feeling is pinch worthy. Like, is this really happening? For a split second, it does not compute.
But then, for me, there was this 15 seconds of nervous anticipation, of building stage fright. I'd never ridden a board this small, much less a single fin, and at a famous spot with the spotlight on me, and me alone.
The overhead peak came in and bent toward me. I'd never received a wave like this. I was in the perfect spot and swung toward the beach and started paddling. The wave let me in and I stood up.
Where in small, crappy waves, standing up quickly and generating speed to get down the line is necessary, here I was faced with the most gorgeously curved, smooth, fast moving, wide open face I'd ever been on. I dropped straight down for what seemed like forever as the peak built behind me. Then, and I will never ever forget the feeling, I made my first bottom turn on a single fin shortboard. The rail set, the fin flexed, the water pushed back, water sprayed from the "Jets". And got my first view down the line.
The specifics of what happened next are lost to memory, but I made my wave and I do remember that it was the smoothest, fastest, bendiest, longest feathering wave I'd ever ridden. The top turns felt great but the bottom turns, the bottom turns felt amazing. The board was doing exactly what I wanted it to do, like and extension of me, like a dream, like I was mind surfing.
And to pass my friends as they paddled back out, smiling and hooting at me, instead of cringing or heckling. I didn't feel like a kook anymore.
Back on the beach, my friends told me with that single wave my performance level had jumped by leaps and bounds, and that I had found, I'd invented, my style.
With that one wave, with that one board, I developed my style.
The Hawaiian Spirit changed my life.
I often wonder what life that board lived before I adopted it. Born in Hawaii in the 70's- who rode it? Where? Moved to the mainland- when? Found at a garage sale- why?And left to ding, dry out, and gather dust in the back of a Woody for years until it caught my eye.
Well it's back in a garage now, has been for years, probably hotter and further from the coast than it's ever been. But it is a much earned retirement. I have so many memories locked away in that board, and it was the best teacher I ever had.
Hawaiian Spirit Surfboards
Shaped by Gabe Garduque
6'3 x 21" x 2 3/4"
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I visit with my old boards in the rafters once in a while and remember some good times.
That board is in surprisingly good shape considering it's 40+ yrs old and was a rider, not a wall hanger.
I liked the paint job so much it became my thing- a number of custom boards with that same scheme.,
Years later I was riding that same board at lowers and Laird was out.
He asked what I was riding and if he could check it out.
He gave me some back story on the shaper Gabe Garduque.
Hawaiian Spirit was his backyard label before he started ghost shaping for Ben Aipa.
Then a long stint of shaping for HIC.
He shaped Brock Little's gun for his infamous barrel in the Eddie.
Basically he's a longtime, low key, respected legendary shaper.
k38- Fish tacos and Bohemia during the last swell.
It's crazy to look towards the cliff while surfing with my wife and see a condo tower on top of the camp spot we shared on one of our first dates almost 30 years ago.
After surfing every day for a few years I had kind of figured out where I wanted my surfing to go and what I wanted out of a surfboard as I continued to progress.
I'd been riding a 70's single fin shortboard as my daily driver for a while. It was super buoyant- it paddled well and went fast. But as I got better and wanted to explore different lines on a wave, the Hawaiian Spirit had its limitations. It was time for my first custom board.
San Clemente was a center for surf industry. The major surf magazines, surf brands, and countless board shapers were located in the "Surf Ghetto", so there were many choices for my first custom.
I knew one shaper personally, from the beach and the lineup, Midget Smith. He was a classic older guy, an ex pro and contest judge that frothed like a grommet and shredded on a shortboard. We set up an appointment.
The smell and scene of the shaper's bay and glass shop was exciting, if not a bit unhealthy. Pungent fumes from polyester resin dominated, and foam dust everywhere. A craftsman zone. Men with respirators, surfers, and surfboards. Surfboards everywhere, in every size, shape, color, and in every stage of creation- from raw foam blank to shiny and colorful. Looking at order slips on any given board might reveal the name of a famous pro surfer. This was ground zero.
I brought the single fin with me. The general dimensions and volume seemed to work well for me, and Midget agreed- we could take the basic genes of the board and tweak them, modernize them.
Midget was stoked on the Hawaiian Spirit and was the one who let me know the deep channels on the rails weren't channels, they were "Jets", man. I told him I'd grown attached to the color scheme as well, so that was added to the tab. There was also a variety of logos, and I chose the most retro one, a seagull inside a sun. 6+8oz glass and a sanded gloss finish would complete the old/new vibe and functionality of the board.
I waited a few weeks before getting the call to come to the glass shop and pick it up, and boy was I stoked. The board felt right under my arm and the color design had been faithfully recreated. And the price? $230, cheaper than any board on the rack at one of the local shops.
I don't remember my first wave on the Midget, but it was most likely an average day at Middles, my regular spot, and the more mushy, but far less crowded wave next to Lowers. An average day at Middles was still way better than most places. I do remember that the board worked right out of the box. It paddled great, was fast and responsive, and with three fins, allowed my lines and turns to be a bit more aggressive. This board was a great teacher and stepping stone into a new style of surfing and it was my main board for a few years.
I'd see Midget in the water at Church and once he told me he'd since made that same board a number of times and the shape was popular. "It's the "El Jefe" model, Jefe!"
Years later, after moving on to another board, I sold the Midget to survive a period of severe pain and no work. I got $275 for it, 50 bucks more than I'd paid new. The good glass job and pretty colors had paid off.
A few years after that, I got a cellphone photo from my friend Todd Lewis in Morro Bay. It was a photo of the Midget. A girl had bought it in San Diego and loved, loved, loved it. The Midget had gotten around.
A few years after THAT, Midget lost his battle to some rare cancer.
Rest in Peace Midget, you made a great board that made a lot of people happy.
Midget Smith Surfboards
San Clemente
6'3 x 21" x 2 1/2"
Chris-
It's too bad the Fish got so trendy, but also, understandable.
The Beaver Tail, no. No function other than lame retro "fashion".
Contractor-
I surfed Malibu once at night with glow sticks and it was still crowded!
Another good story Jefe! Just to clarify things, I have no problems with the fisheys or longboards. Matter of fact, I learned to surf on a longboard. Imaging surfing State Park on a single fin 9'6" with a square tail and no edge anywhere. I did a lot of pole vaulting. People stayed away from me with good reason.
I surfed Malibu once at night with glow sticks and it was still crowded!
Friggen LOL! Late 90's to early 2000's? Shoot, I may have been out there with you. More fun than surfing it in the daytime by a long shot and some times were rather uncrowded.
Just for the heck of it, here's a fish for you ... 21" wide 5'10"
I, sheesh.....that was pretty damn stupid. Slow motion train wreck for sure. "i've got an idea. Let's drive the jet ski into the toilet bowel right next to the jetty and see what happens." Those dudes better make a large donation to those lifeguards.
Heroic work by the guards. Hard to tell how close they were to the rocks from the camera angle but it looks like they put themselves in significant jeopardy to save those two.
"No one rides a twin fin in Hawaii!"
It's just one of the many memorable lines from the horrible/awesome 80's movie North Shore, in which our hero Rick Kane wins a wave pool contest in Arizona and uses the prize money to go to Hawaii to "ride the big waves in the North Shore!"
From the moment I started surfing on the Central Coast, to Costa Rica, to my new home in San Clemente, I could never live down my connection to Rick Kane. "Scrub it Kook", "Go back to Arizona haole", every classic quotable line, I heard them all.
So when I was packing my boardbag with twinnies for my first trip to Hawaii, of course I found myself repeating those lines and hoping I didn't run into the same heavy locals and ridicule Rick did.
But I was going to the South Shore, Town, Waikiki- on a cheap package deal in the off season and figured my small/mushy wave boards would work just fine in the longboard waves around Diamond Head.
I grew up listening to stories of old Hawaii from my grandmother. She lived there in the 30's and was enchanted by the old elegant hotels on the beach at Waikiki.
So when my first toe got wet in the warm South Pacific water, and I paddled out far enough to catch my first view of the iconic pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel, I was flooded with memories and emotion. But there was business to take care of- the waves were good!
While I was making the long paddle out to the peak at Queens, a local kid with long hair, maybe 10 or 11 years old, was riding a wave in. As the wave neared, I sat up on my board and watched him, just soaking it all in.
He glared at me with his best stink eye, and thinking I was going to turn around and burn him on the wave, yells "Ohhhh HELL no haole!"
Great. Here we go.
Once on the peak everything was groovy and I had a great surf. Turquoise water with Diamond Head in the background, with a fun and rippable wave? Oh yeah. A lot of people would have saved the hassle of traveling with boards just to surf the south shore, and instead rented a board. But what made my first surf in Hawaii a real gas- I was riding my favorite board, a magic board, my daily driver, the Exterminator, a twin fin. In Hawaii.
My evolution as a surfer had taken me through a number of boards, all good teachers. The thing they had in common was volume- width and thickness, and outline. Basically, they were not standard shortboards. The waves I surfed regularly back home in San Clemente were generally slower, mushier point breaks and wider, flatter boards worked well in these waves, and allowed me to surf a range of conditions without resorting to a longboard or struggling on a standard shortboard.
My first short board was a 70's single fin, then a thruster modeled after it, the Midget. It taught me how to generate my own speed, to push hard in turns, and to go more vertical up the wave face. I could ride it in big or small surf and it became my one and only.
Half my friends were diehard shortboarders and the other were longboarders. They didn't hang too much. My best frienemy, Elvis, was a longboarder, more specifically, a logger. Real, old fashioned heavy single fin 10 footers were his thing. He had developed a relationship with a South Bay shaper named Tyler, who was making the nicest craftsman logs around.
One day Elvis came back with a little white board along with his new log. He said it was a loaner, a prototype, that Tyler wanted him to test drive. It was short and squat with a very wide swallowtail. It was really flat and had two keel fins. On the deck was a large hand painted cartoon of the Western Exterminator mascot. Well Elvis was 6'5 and a 10'6 longboarder used to one fin. He was an excellent surfer but this board was 5'11 and had two fins, and didn't go very well for him, so I was the obvious successor.
Just looking at it I knew it would work for me and as soon as I stood up on it, I knew it was magic. Twin fins don't work for everyone, but they worked for me, as I soon found.
Where the Midget picked up where the Hawaiian Spirit left off, this board absolutely blasted off where the Midget left off. I could catch waves earlier, go faster, turn sharper, or longer. Backside it was a dream, gripping high on the wall and carrying all my speed through cutbacks. Bigger waves, smaller, steeper, slower, it didn't matter, this board worked for me. It did everything I wanted it to do without even thinking about it, like I didn't even have a board at all. Every surfer finds a "magic board" at some point, the Exterminator was mine. This board replaced the Midget and made it obsolete. It became my everyday board.
Not many people were riding Fishes at that time, and the board and I, well we got some weird looks in and out of the water. This was an era when groups of Asian surfers would travel to Trestles for some "cultural immersion". This was also an era when my hair was sun bleached white and I rode a beach cruiser so rusted that the spokes had grown together. As I rode by, with my fish bungeed in the outrigger style board rack, these groups of Asians would stop in their tracks, analyzing everything about me. It was kind of weird, but kind of cool, I guess. I must have represented something cool and different to them, or maybe archetypal, classic.The board was part of the package. Caucasians tripped on me too, assuming it was a kneeboard, a near extinct form of surfing practiced only by a small, esoteric group.
I had grown very attached to this fish but there were times when Elvis would just repossess it, and I'd be forced to ride something else. like I sad we were frienemies. When he almost died in a motorcycle accident and was bedridden for an extended period, the board became mine, for good, with a handshake and everything.
During the years that I rode the Exterminator, fishes became very popular. A trend, a fad that had been dissed and dismissed just a few years earlier by the same shapers that were now making them by the hundreds and the surfers that realized they must work if kooks like Jefe can rip on them.
The fish then became the new longboard. They flooded the lineups and became the new focus of hate by grumpy shortboarders. There was now a huge retro niche, and the average fish looked far different than mine, with all the bells and whistles and the price tag to match. The riders too- wearing period-era wetsuits...it had gotten a little out of hand. But it was good to see that minds had opened concerning surfboard design, choosing equipment that suited the conditions, not just emulating what the pros rode. I know I sure benefitted from this sea change, and maybe, in a small way, contributed to it.
Rick Kane's trials and tribulations ran from being beat up by locals, learning about the ocean and board design from a mentor, scoring a hot local girl, to eventually being accepted and becoming a ripping surfer. The final scene has Rick looking over to the feared and respected leader of the local Hawaiian surf gang, only to be thrown a Shaka and a knowing smirk. The kook that rode the twin fin had come a long way.
I literally rode the Exterminator into the dirt. Badly delaminated and disfigured, it has permanently retired in Arizona.
I will never discard it, there's still some magic left in the board, it's in the memories.
Tyler Surfboards
"Deuce" prototype
5'11" x 21" x 2 1/2"
If you'll notice, the rodent on the board is wielding an artist brush and palette, not a knife and fork like the original logo.
The pin striper for Tyler Surfboards did the art and said it reflected his relationship with his boss!
A note on the origin of the Western Exterminator logo:
The Little Man is Born
You’ve probably whizzed by his 17-foot image dozens of times or been stuck in traffic behind one of the many trucks that he rides on. The Little Man with the Hammer, the trademark of The Western Exterminator Company was born in 1931.
The small guy with big eyes and a tall top hat was an instant success. He was a commanding little person, with one warning finger raised against a rodent, and a large mallet tucked under his arm.
The creation of telephone company artist Vaughn Kaufman, “The Little Man” has been used as the trademark for this family-run company, celebrating its 95th year, ever since. The Los Angeles icon was originally named “Kernel Kleenup” but it never really stuck. Even after a television contest to rename him in 1964, he remained known as the Little Man.
In 1984, Van Halen used his image to promote their world tour, prompting rock fans to call the exterminator company wondering why they were using the bands image to promote pest control!
By Amy Larson
BIO
Santa Cruz Sheriff urges Coastal Commission to keep Privates Beach private
UPDATED 3:28 PM PDT Jun 29, 2016
CAPITOLA, Calif. —We don't want Privates Beach to become the next Sunny Cove Beach
Privates Beach
The California Coastal Commission said the beach's gated entrance is exclusionary and violates the Coastal Act, which mandates public access.
MORE
That's the message Santa Cruz County Sheriff Jim Hart sent to the California Coastal Commission in a letter this month after the commission ordered the county's only private beach to become public.
Opal Cliffs Park, called Privates Beach by locals, is nestled in a beautiful cove below a high-end neighborhood in Capitola. It is a popular spot for longboard surfers, families who live nearby, and nudists.
READ: Sheriff Hart's letter to the Coastal Commission
A 9-foot high, locked metal fence separates surfers and sun worshipers from Privates Beach. Residents who pay an annual $100 fee to the Opal Cliffs Recreation District receive keys to enter the beach.
The commission has ordered the Opal Cliffs Recreation District to remove the gate, fence, and guard by June 30 or face a daily $11,000 fine.
Opal Cliffs residents reacted by posted a large red sign at the gate reading, "Emergency Alert. The California Coastal Commission is seeking to destroy Opal Cliffs Park."
In a letter dated June 17, Sheriff Hart urged the commission to reverse its decision. Opening access would cause the beach's crime rate to spike, and "create an immediate and continuing dangerous nuisance," he said.
Unlike Pleasure Point and other beaches along East Cliff Drive, the secluded Privates Beach is difficult for deputies to patrol, because it lacks "good sight lines for effective observation," Hart said.
"It is more akin to Sunny Cove Beach, which has become a high crime area. In the last 12 months, my office managed 605 calls for service at Sunny Cove Beach for a wide variety of criminal activity. The crime occurring in the Sunny Cove Beach area is causing serious problems for homeowners," Hart said.
In that same time period, Privates Beach only had nine emergency calls.
Hart added, "I have lived in this community my entire life. I cannot recall there ever not having been a fence and gate at (Privates Beach)."
Patrick Veesart, enforcement supervisor with the Coastal Commission, said concerns outlined by the sheriff are the same concerns every beach town up and down California's coast faces.
Opal Cliffs should not be given special treatment, Veesart said.
"The solution is not to wall off the coast from the public," Veesart said. "This is a popular surf spot. This is an important beach. And it's time to get this open to the public."
The California Coastal Act requires maximum beach access for the public.
As of Wednesday, a deadline extension had not yet been granted to the district.
Opal Cliffs Recreation District attorney Mark Massara said nudists and families both love the beach for the same reasons: "It's safe, clean, and well-cared for."
The key fee made the beach's pristine condition possible, and Santa Cruz County does not have enough resources to ensure it will stay that way, the attorney said.
"The sheriff raises some really valid concerns," Massara said.
Really liked all three of those evocative episodes, Jefe! Old boards, like old climbing gear, can trigger a tide of memory.
…allowed me to surf a range of conditions without resorting to a longboard
The idea of a longboard as “ last resort” reminded me of a line in Barbarian Days where Finnegan considers, as he gets older, switching to a longboard. But he rejects the notion, saying it would be akin to admitting you need a walker in order to walk.
As one who came to surfing late in life-via a longboard-that stung when I read it!
Opal Cliffs Recreation District attorney Mark Massara said nudists and families both love the beach for the same reasons: "It's safe, clean, and well-cared for."
Unfortunately most nudists are the last people you want to see nude
Hey Rick!
Thanks for reading!
You know, that day you and I went for a surf, a longboard was absolutely the right board for the day. I was bummed I didn't have one with me. I love longboards and riding them in certain conditions.
In fact....
The very last episode of
"Wall of Text About Foam and Fiberglass" is about my longboard.
I know you're all on the edge of your seats! Lol!
Rick- Let's hook up again. I seem to score every time I make it to the coast, so I'll let you know next time :-)
Recommendations for a Beginner / Intermediate Surf Vacation Location. Live in Colorado and don't surf, but comfortable in the water, having lived in Portland and windsurfed comfortably in the Gorge.
Last year my family and I went to Nosara Costa Rica for a week in March. The week we were there there was a rather large storm cycle and its a beach break so I had my ass handed to me. On a long board the paddle out was a 45 min ordeal and I lost my leash twice. I would rather rap off the Diamond on Longs in a hail storm than do that again.
So ... looking for some where with a more of chance of things being benign. Seems like Puerto has a lot but concerned about the crowds.
Surfor conditions are super season and swell dependent. I'd look for a surf camp type place that caters to fams and different levels of surfers. Obviously Costa Rica and also check out Ecuador.
Last year at this time I had the best surf trip of my life. I suck and was still able to get barreled. One of the best feelings ever and I've sampled a few. I didn't even get in anyone's way which might say I'm learning something. It's not a deep end at the local bowl for me. It's new and I've been at it for over ten years.
Thank you surfing for teaching me patience. It bleeds to all I do.
Referring to the #1 post in this thread, the last good surf I scored was with Leavitt early this summer at a very difficult to access, very high quality wave on a fine southwest swell, with one other friend and only three other people in the water. We all got a big stack of superfine waves and toward the end of the session, Leavitt, exhausted, comes paddling back from ANOTHER great ride, almost too tired to sit up on his board, and gasps out, "I'm tired of winning."
drljefe - Loved the novella on your twin fin. Funny how things go around. I will be building a stringerless, EPS/epoxy, mini-simmons this spring just because...
finally some good looking swell coming our way, let's hope the pacific keeps giving swell for the winter.
NJ has been good for the winter season. However, this past Sunday is was overhead, cracking, 12 deg F with 20 mph off shore winds at Manasquan. My 14 year old is still calling me a sissy for not going out.
What an entertaining thread this has been to read! It's all play within mother Earth's gravity well, it's all good. And I feel compelled to replace surfing with skiing and paddling for those of us who live here in the Rockies, far from the coast.
Ok, since we're all climbers and surfers
(actually, having a hard time calling myself a surfer these days but whatever)
Check this out.
It's pissed me off for years
Ohana Kemp Surfboards has used this blatant ripoff lam
on their "Five and Dime" model for a while now.
Seeing the sticker on my car, at the beach people used to ask me if Five Ten was a longboarding brand....
Then this came along.
Lame.
I always thought their boards were lame too.
Australia has some interesting critters to look out for when rockclimbing, but looks same-same for surfing. Great white shark and a mans 10 year old son in photo below.
"CANBERRA, Australia -- A 10-year-old surfer has had a close encounter with a photo-bombing shark that shared a wave with him off an Australian beach.
Chris Hasson said Thursday that he was taking photos of his son Eden riding a wave off Samurai Beach at Port Stephens, 180 kilometers (110 miles) north of Sydney, on Tuesday when something unexpected and indistinct caught his eye.
He discovered he had photographed the face of a twisting shark just below the surface with his son on an apparent collision course."
The Mexican President has cancelled his scheduled meeting with Trump in response to Trump's executive order to build the wall.
Trump has announced a 20% tariff on all Mexican imports to fund said wall in violation of NAFTA.
Based on past US/Mexican relationships mired in a downward spiral and the resulting visa and Army checkpoints that pop-up as retaliation- I guess I won't be surfing with my family in Mexico until this settles down.
Based on past US/Mexican relationships mired in a downward spiral and the resulting visa and Army checkpoints that pop-up as retaliation- I guess I won't be surfing with my family in Mexico until this settles down.
That's a bummer and has a fair chance of occurring.
With that said, I'm considering a surf trip to Rio Nexpa. Anyone been there? Do I need a bulletproof vest?
Asilomar Reef, Monterey Peninsula.
In the early 2K's I would head up north to visit friends and surf. I'd often find myself surfing alone while my friends were working or while I was exploring In Big Sur.
The day pictured was in the fall on a non significant swell, which isn't to say it didn't have size and power.
I was riding a fish, which hadn't yet become popular, and the other surfers out at the reef thought it must be a kneeboard. It worked like a charm on the big sloping lefts and I had a great session.
At one point, everyone else had paddled in. In Southern California that's a blessing. In Central and Northern California that can make things a bit spooky so I caught a good one in and waited for my friend to get off work.
That evening we scored very good waves on the other side of the reef in Spanish Bay. Glassy, emerald green semi hollow rights in crystal clear water.
Occasionally, after a set, large bulbs of bull kelp would surface, sometimes hitting the underside of my board. Startling, to say the least, and the first time sharks really entered my mind. The waves had been too good to worry.
We surfed til dark and at the car I asked my friend about sharks. "Well I guess now that we're on the beach I can tell you." Oh sh#t.
Turns out, one of the most notorious shark attack fatalities in US history occurred at the reef I'd surfed earlier, just a stones throw from where were just surfing...at "feeding time".
In 1981 a local kneeboarder named Lewis Boren was taken while riding there alone. His board had a bite radius that of a White Shark 20ft in length, possibly more. One of the largest ever documented. His body was recovered days later, severed nearly in half, with a single bite from shoulder to hip.
A memorial paddle around the reef is still held for Lewis Boren.
In researching the spot later, I found helpful tips like "Large mature Whites regularly cruise this bay" and "Main Hazards: sharks. Bring your own iron cage".
Warnings I'm glad I didn't see beforehand.
I would have missed out on a few surfs I still count as my best.
Jefe, kind of an interesting part of shark stories is that the females are far bigger than the male sharks. Like about 21 feet compared to 16 feet for those monsters that have reached maturity.
And The Farallon Islands (SF bay opening), a world center for Tippers, has its own girls' bay where the gals hold forth exclusively. Sexual dimorphism, namely. Of course the meaningfulness of 16 feet versus 21 feet is nil when any such animals are present, it is all horrifying beyond most other earthly experiencing. The girls come only every other year while the males are present all years. Funny too is how these animals go off into the deep Pacific (between Hawaii and the USA to their "White Shark Cafe".
Contractor, that Tijuana 'plume' is hideous. My daughter teaches surfing for the UCSD rec services department at Scripps pier. Is the plume getting up there?
Black's at that size and quality would have a bit more than 3 people on it. And I usually approach Black's from the UCSD road. On weekends you can park in the Muir College lot for free and walk straight across to the road down. I always seems to nick my boards coming down from the gliderport; probably from having to avert my eyes from things you can't unsee.
I'll be out there May 5-8 and will hit the Sacred Craft/Boardroom Show at the fairgrounds. Plan to surf mornings and go to the show at least on one afternoon.
These cupcakes get to change in and out of their steamer wetsuits inside a nice warm and dry house. me? I'm the guy standing behind the car getting in and out of my winter wetsuit. Fun.
So basically, Shawn Dollar is a dead man without the air tank. I'm surprised he didn't have an inflatable vest under the wetsuit; at least he didn't mention it. That was spine tingling.
I'm surprised he didn't have an inflatable vest under the wetsuit; at least he didn't mention it.
This took place early 2012 and the Patagonia inflatable vest hadn't been invented yet. The Billabong V1 inflatable wetsuit had just come out and he was wearing one but he couldn't find the toggle.
After filming I paddled out winded and tired and caught a couple waves. My third wave was a good sized one that I didn't make it around the corner and got seriously rolled. I was exhausted and when I felt the second wave go over me it was time to use the V2.1 and get the hell out of there. However when I fell it pulled the chord from my shoulder and I couldn't find the rip cord. After struggling and not finding it, because it was loose and somewhere behind my back, I was getting close to blacking out and the rest of that sh#t that goes on down there. I grabbed my Spare Air cleared the chamber and took 4 breaths and was able to keep calm. I came to the surface just as another wave hit me. I wasn't really able to get much of a breath on the surface and then got drilled again. I used my spare air through this again, taking 4 more breaths. I ended up going through the rocks. Vince Broglio grabbed me in the lagoon and I was caughing up water and was very very dizzy. Super Heavy experience. Spare Air's are suppose to have about 15 breaths, but I was taking such deap ones I went though the can in about 8 breaths.
I broke my neck (fractured my C5 in two spot, and subluxated C5 over C6) back on October 1st 2016 when I wiped out a bomb at N. Side HB Pier. Just started surfing and climbing again. It was a total bummer to be in a neck brace for two months.... Climbed for about 15 years straight until I moved back to So Cal in 2009 and started surfing again. What a feeling.... Stoked to be back doing both :-)
[photo[photo[photoid=496186]id=496185]id=496184]
Sharks, including great whites, have been hanging out in that region at least as far back as the early 70's from my own personal experience, and from the old SanO surf club people all the way back to the inception of that spot. Once, on a classic San Onofre summer day, literally a hundred surfers (me included) watched a fairly large great white glide just 20 ft out from the outside lineup. Must have been 7-8 ft from tail to dorsal fin. Everyone on the outside just looked at the shark and each other, and stayed calm as the shark finally went past the San O point and slid under the surface apparently making its way towards Churches. That was it for shark action over the next 3 hours of surf.
I'm very fortunate to surf, climb, and paddle. I love Kai and he's genuinely great for the sport.
I will say these foil boards are now in the hands of kooks and they are sitting on the outside riding waves full of peeps. Riding into the lineup. Okay I know we've been cruising 4 man canoes into the Waikiki line up long before surfers but these foil boards are dangerous.
Enjoy foiling on waves that you cannot surf, down wind etc.
I really feel surfing is going through a bad revolution at the moment with blow up vest that dumb down the danger and allow your average surfer access to 15ft Hawaiian swells.
Jordy is on fire! Watching the J-Bay Open right now. I have all four quarterfinals surfers in my Fantasy Surfer lineup; and my kids are hating life because I keep texting them this factoid.
I broke my neck last October... Fractured C5/C6 lateral mass with 1.5mm of displacement. Got pounded into a sandbar.... Surfing small stuff (nothing over head high.... maybe a tad bigger) on high tide these days.
Chouinard got me out on a long board in Ventura back in the mid-60s. Never caught a wave. Loved to body surf though.
My son was an avid surfer and we always promised each other to learn the other's sport. He never became a climber and I never became a surfer. Always regretted that.
Slater surfing my home break in Sea Girt/Spring Lake NJ on OCT 30 2017. My son and I went out yesterday at the same spot (OCT 31) and it was half the size and awesome.
Congrats on your son's surfing. I hope to be at Black's NOV 10, 11, 12 visiting our daughter at UCSD. But since she is teaching surfing both weekend mornings we'll probably just surf outside of the class on the north side of Scripps pier.
I just ran across this video of Ocean Beach in in SF from a year ago. It pretty much captures it all. Beautiful but shifting peaks. It sure strikes from chords for me of my home break.
So I *attempted* to surf Ocean Beach SF exactly once. I got my ass kicked and never made it outside. It looked different than the video above, which looks great. The day I tried to paddle out, 1st bar was a completely thumping death zone. I got washed down the beach about a 1/2 mile until I came in, walked up (with tail between legs), strapped the board on the car and drove out of there. I was intimidated as hell that day.
Yeah, your mention of the side-shore rip made me smile in wincing remembrance of many an ass thumping. I still can't believe how well some people handle the whole length of Ocean Beach, even on suboptimal days. I wasn't one of those.
HB Cliffs this morning... High tide combo swell... lined up lefts/right for an hour before work... super stoked :-) then two hours of LA traffic... lament
Since that last video infringed in some copyright stuff, this one is fairly representative of the surf we got on the east coast this past season. Unfortunately we're currently riding through one of the longest flat spells I've ever seen in the winter. four weeks and virtually no waves. We had one small window when the 'bomb' storm passed. And it was -7 def F this morning. No fun. Hopefully next week...
D2R2, I'm thinking retirement in SD (Mission Beach or thereabouts) in a decade or perhaps less. However, the OBX is embedded in my soul. Used to sneak waves below the lighthouse crew by sitting wide and stroking underneath for the smaller sets. Got yelled at by 'The Viking' more than once; what a dick. Though, haven't seen that guy in a decade. Something about picking your own peak and others finding their own, too. Kind of our east coast Baja with potable water.
Popoyo... off-shore all day everyday this time of year. And you can get those combo swells that are really peaky on the beach breaks. Enjoy and happy birthday!
Anybody got any Nicaragua info to share? ....post up!
Happy 40th BrotherBBock!
I took my son and 5 of his friends down to Colorado's a couple of years back. It was amazing! I'd say my second favorite after the Mentawaiis, but I love beach break.
D2- I design the boards on a computer then send the file to a C&C mill shop that cuts the foam to 1/100th of an inch. It's cheating compared to the craftsman that hand shape.
I couldn't find your club. Feel free to join "Bonefish Boards". We're giving out some swag to the winners in both the men's and women's contests. We have four people. Popularity is not the game :)
There's a tube photo of Greg Long by Ant Fox. Does anyone know where that was taken? Are you willing to share that info, even if its just revealing the country? I would guess somewhere in Central America.
In regards to the topic of this thread, the thinf Ive always loved about surfing is that when you drop in and shoot down the line, you are nowhere else. Your mind is totally free from the outside world: moving meditation. Yeah, Id say the stoke is sweeter after a good wave, but everything is so short lived.
And working on a boat has ruined my perception about sharks. You hear about more sightings, you see more, it sucks. I know the probability isnt changed, but the mental exposure is blown wide open.
Climbing gives me that same mental liberation, but for hours and hours on end.
I got tired just watching that video. Now I need a siesta.
QUESTION for Cabo surfers: Just booked a trip to Cabo for AUG 22-29. Staying is Costa Azul on the beach, walkable to Zippers, et.al.. How is it that time of year?
At the surf hotel? Old Mans is right in front, Costa Azul is slightly to the left and for zippers you have to navigate some rocks around the point or a trail on the bluff and then a 400-yard beachwalk. This is all tide dependent. Medium tides are best although you can take advantage of some nice hit sections caused by the exposed rocks at Costa Azul at low tide.
The locals down there suck and particularly at Zippers. The locals learned to hate the day a direct flight from Long Beach started 20 some odd years ago with the resulting influx of greedy Orange County surfers.
Check out Shipwrecks on the East Cape, Tule Wash towzrds Cabo and Cerritos on the Pacific side.
Gunkie, it sounds like you surfed blacks in the past. If you like beach breaks, there are occasionally great sand bars around Playitas or the old El Presidente Hotel in San Jose del Cabo.
Thanks for the tips! Staying a 15 minute walk from the Zippers area. Not worried about the locals at Zippers; we're goofyfoots :) Rented a 4WD jeep. Plan on hitting Shipwrecks, 9 Palms, Cerritos, other spots. Like the low tide Costa Azul novelties.
"My wife calls me a hermit with social skills. She doesn’t know the half of it: sometimes my own company flat out pisses me off. People grate on me. In the water, too. Especially. If I were to list the most dreadful spot in the world, it might well be Kirra at full pump. Part of my aquatic misanthropy is garden-variety neurosis, part of it my constitutional passivity and shyness, and a lot of it plain selfishness. I was, at my best, a journeyman out there, lower-middle of most packs."
The Endangered Waves App is the mobile tool that allows users to share and geotag threats facing their coastlines, beaches and surf breaks. When you download and use the app, you are helping Save The Waves monitor and respond to coastal problems on a global scale. Be part of the solution!
In LAX right now waiting for our red-eye back to the east coast. Had a great time surfing Los Cabos/Costa Azul & east cape. Hit a bit of a swell nadir, but got good to great surf every day. Surfed Zippers with 14 people in the line-up on a head high+ day and got all the waves I could handle. My son also got his share or more. Loved the real locals (MX) hated most or all of the ex-pats; dickheads all around. Had to stuff one of the ex-pats into the rocks because they snaked me on a bomb out the back at Zippers. I stared him down waiting to escalate and he said not a word and didn't even paddle for another waves that I even looked at. We got in good with the Mex surfers by giving waves up front and they started blocking and hooting us into set waves. We dropped our extra wax for them on the way out and we're all amigos now.
Will be back. Thanks for the tips!
PS - now looking at a bombing swell for the east coast next weekend.
Same thing. They arrested my wife, I kept surfing. Fortunately her Dad was a Navy pilot and she got off but our Sentri pass was almost denied years later due to the incident.
In that Video is a young Dann Mann who is a notable firewire shaper and Mike Gillard who was king of the Reef at Cardiff at least 6 or 7 times. There was definitely a solid tube riding tradition in Coronado.
I was in bigger (and colder, no wetsuit, think it was December, no hard boards or even sponges that day) at the wedge in the early seventies. Started breaking a bit closer to the jetty too.
I find them to be very complimentary. Not only are they both sports that take over your life and drive passion, but they are both mentally focusing and engaged with nature. Not to mention when your fingers are toast from climbing, surfing is a great workout for larger climbing muscles.
One of the best days I've had is 14 pitches on Tahquitz (whodunnit & the long climb link-up) and a sunset surf sesh in San Diego.
I was originally a surfer though and have recently become addicted to climbing. I even moved into a van to get as much time as I can either surfing or climbing.
If you're interested you can follow on my blog, Dirtbag Beta. I'm hoping it can become more than just a personal blog someday but who knows.
You can find complimentary aspects in nearly any athletic activity. Some people climb, some surf and a very few do both...neither is even slightly dependent on the other.
Oh boy I'm beat! Third Pillar of Dana on Saturday and Hurricane Rosa on Sunday and Monday.Great climb!Hurricane Rosa cranked at our local beach. Zbrown may be able to guess the location.
Gunkie, do you surf the beach breaks there? I have a buddy who grew up surfing the jettys of Long Beach Island and raves about the waves and the daughters of the tourists from Philly.
Gunkie, do you surf the beach breaks there? I have a buddy who grew up surfing the jettys of Long Beach Island and raves about the waves and the daughters of the tourists from Philly.
Yes and LBI kicks ass. So do a lot of other spots depending on swell direction, winds, tides... The best tube rides I ever had were in NJ and they were good, deep and sometimes scary.
Speaking of San Miguel this came a bit after our hay[?]days. It's good history though.
Interesting that it is posted by DrAbalone. I had my first taste of abalone at the little restaurant across from Hussong's and first ever quesadilla at the place at San Miguel.
I recall folks starting the paddle from North Beach to Ralph's, but I never heard of anyone making it.
Continuing the Coronado theme
DC and I grew up a couple of blocks from one another. I considered him a pretty good friend. So good in fact that he took me home and propped me against the door, rang the bell and ran after I got pretty drunk (we didn't try any rapes) and puked all over in his car.
We had some fun Baja trips.
Technically, closer to the Lighthouse than Coronado
Z- this is getting weird- I was friends with DC's son Scott in the mid 70's. We'd all jump in my Dad's Volkswagen van and go downtown to skateboard paradise or the concourse or what have you. My Dad and DC...shit everyone would smoke doobs and fly down that thing. Of course Max was always there.
Later on I remember DC's smoothies from his Mulberry tree.
DC lived on Second Ave at the corner of King St. So too did Lalo (Lyle John Hitchcock) live on Second Ave.
I do not know what street another local Carlos Santana lived on, but here's a little contribution from the two of them. Gerry Lopez? Don't those Hispanicals hang together.
A clip from Lyle's 1972 classic Island Magic
Doncha love to see someome riding waves without a tuxedo
Saturday October 27 event. Free tickets at Ventura County library. Barbarían Days is a beautifully addictive memoir of a surfing life. I may have a spare ticket.
Had great surf this past Sunday in NJ (not me below). I was embedded in a lip of a wave like this, however, and got beat about the head and face my my board. You know it's bad when you're going over the falls and you are kicking your board with your knees.
NJ has been firing over the last few weeks. This was last Friday. I had to work; my son had a snow day and scored. He said he got the biggest, scariest tube of his life. Was in San Diego last weekend and wished I was in NJ.
My son is not a professional surfer, is 16 yo and small for his age. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt regarding the biggest, scariest tube of his life.
^ friend in college mentioned his cousins. A 4 ft. swell, may have been close to double overhead for them. don't back down... um, I may have. fu-king' groms.
edit: gunkie, good to surf close to those close to you, or at least out there in it.?
really, this thread has been positive. here's my rant about the sport anyway.
These days, people seem to be wearing the skulls, flames, and some scary tattoos. Walking around with hats pulled low over their eyes. Outsiders wearing the same uniform? Maybe someone should try an aloha shirt. They don't really seem to be in style.
just because I like it, and it feels good... get the sun on your skin. stay warm, keep warm.
Where the barrels form, are still Long Beach Island's best kept secrets. thread drift to point out that there is some climbing in NJGunkie, Does this look familiar? there is a walk-off exit is just out of the frame.
Sam Hammer was surfing one sandbar north of us today and absolutely taking apart double overhead+ bombs. And he was with another really good surfer who was equally shredding. Probably one of the cats from that winter storm Avery video that BIOTCH posted. I was just happy to have made it outside and not get injured. Yes, NJ was good again today. 6-10+ feet and cracking. And it's getting colder. Time to step up the wetsuit thickness for December. Missing San Diego :)
Howdy, new here to the forum. I live in Southern California and I have been surfing for over 25 years. I'm way too old to start learning a thing like climbing! However my stubbornness keeps me trying. Since I am new to climbing, I am what we refer to as a Kook in the surfing world. It feels good to be a bottom feeder again!
There are definitely some parallels I have noticed in both pursuits. Here's a little list:
Both things immerse you in nature, but also have man-made variations.
Both have a subset of salty old codgers, telling the youths about how much better the "old days" were.
Both have basic, sometimes unwritten rules (governed by peers) as to how to you are supposed to behave while doing the activity. Violators are verbally assaulted accordingly.
Both honor "good style" as an important quality in performing the act.
Both have specific gear associated to perform the act itself, and to do it safely.
Both offer respite from the rigors of the daily grind.
**Both are just plain f*#king fun!!**
General Michael Flynn was in the news yesterday as it looks like he just might avoid prison time for lying to the FBI about his contacts with Russians and his work as a clandestine agent for the Turkish government. He is a former national security advisor to the president,a convicted but not yet sentenced felon, and the guy that led chants of "Lock her up" during the 2016 campaign.
Turns out he is a surfer and not only that: he was a "charger" according to a Rhode Island surf shop owner who knew him as kid.
Surfer's Journal has a 'Spin The Globe' section at the beginning usually with a very impressive picture. the reader is supposed to guess the spot. The most recent SJ has an aerial picture of Point Judith Rhode Island; one of my favorite surf spots when it's firing.
If Flynn can tear up the Pt Judith lefts on a sizable day, I will give him a nod of respect. It's a serious wave, compares favorably to big K-38 for you Baja Norte efficianados.
^^^ California is going off right now. My daughter just flew back for the holidays from San Diego. I think she's happy to not have see very solid swell that she would most likely not go out in.
But NJ is going to be good clean fun this weekend.
5-7’? NWS is saying “life-threatening”! Ventura 8-12’ with 15’ sets!
I was referring to the surf forcast in New Jersey this coming weekend; where I surf mostly. I think everyone who surfs knows California is pumping everywhere with good deep NW groundswell.
landcruiserbob... paddling out? I'd stub my toe and be unable to paddle out, of course, because I'd be on IR.
What happened with Thiago Jacare from the last page? I looked, but didnt see any news. respect to all involved. If that doesn't get the XXL wipe out, I shudder to think what will.
Cellophane and duct tape body wrap to hold my buddies separated ribs together before paddling out at the Tijuana Sloughs this morning. Clean 20 foot faces were abundant.
Last updated Tuesday, January 8 at 12:10pm EST
New Jersey PM Report:
A notch more southerly windswell is in the water this afternoon with most spots checking in the 1-2-3' range. Conditions are now semi-clean with SSE winds less than 5kts. The surf is small and weak with light texture on the face but enough for the bigger boards with the dropping tide if you wanted to get wet, just don't expect much.
Short Term Forecast:
Southerly windswell will continue over the day with small waves. Look for SSW winds to increase a bit by mid to late afternoon to 9-12kts adding texture to the face. Low tide is at 2:50pm.
Forecast Headlines:
· Any Waves With This Upcoming Cold Weather
Not sure but it seems things are tame in the 'hood, so maybe Gunkie will chime in soon.
All good things come to those who . . .
Wade in
or is that Wade out?
I hope to hear what's what
I got a chance to check out the scene, surf & sand, as well as the soggy boxes that did yield (yielded; Is that A Word?)
This picture of The "Pudding Stone Arret"/PSA(#II or III) (foreground) The Done Dirt Cheap Chimney/DDCC
&
The Dirty Deeds Chimney Crack(s)
(Background,& The Start of The Pulveriser, heads out right)
And me in Megas on "In Dirty-In-Deeds-We-Do-Trust" = IDIDWDT
I was 'In' Real Estate at the time.
(IDIDWDT was Pronounced by others Idid,wit,:\ when I wanted it to be: I Did Wut)
All accessed from Vassar Rd way BITD
Why do surf leashes break so easily, and is there any good reason why they aren't rated like climbing gear or at least designed to handle greater forces?
I've seen so many leashes (or tent-stake-grade connector cord) break, and often in piddling conditions. If climbing gear failed as often as leashes half of us would probably be dead!
Leashes come in different thicknesses- skinny ones snap. I've had a board tombstoning off my thicker cord after bailing on a big wave with so much force that it snapped my board. So leashes are designed to stretch and snap at certain forces so the deck plug doesn't break (the connection point on the board) and or your leg is not injured. They're dynamic with a fail point by design.
Some of us surf without a leash when ever possible which is a old-school ethic. This results in more waves for others, promotes more controled surfing and keeps you in shape.
Did you start surfing with a leash? I assume you did. I don't surf anymore, but I started before leashes were used (mid-late '60s). It always was interesting getting caught out without a board and not sure about which way the rips/currents were running. This was San Francisco and Humboldt Co, so at least we had the bouyancy of wetsuits but had the cold water to contend with. Good times that still haunt me, mostly in a good way.
It's been said that when leashes entered the scene, more big wave surfers started dying... and they think its because the board drags you and that keeps you under water.
Not a big wave surfer, but I was told this by a bigger-wave surfer.
I've definitely been caught in that moment when the wave doesnt want to let go of the board, and getting dragged for a looot longer than I would have liked.
I was buying the cheapest leashes on the market. I finally had one break in 3' NJ surf a few months ago and the leash was probably only a year old. It snapped at the swivel joint on the rail saver. It had a plastic ball joint. Now I'm buying the better Dakine leashes that use stainless steel swivels. I'm not sure if I've ever seen a surf leash break mid-cord.
In every instance where my leash snapped I was happy it did. Always on big days caught inside and the only way out was back out through the break. Most of the time I was wrapped around a tombstone coral head in a critical spot. The violence in the critical zone when your leash is wrapped around coral and your board so bouyant and you can’t reach your ankle to pull the Velcro strap. Every 14 seconds you’re getting pounded Its nice to hear the leash snap. If you’re a good swimmer it’s always best to divorce your board for a bit...
The surf in Santa Cruz has been awesomeyou get the same feeling and same smile after a good session as you do after a good climbing session . Enjoy both . Both are better when the crowd is small .
Spent a week on LBI this past summer, nice place. Unfortunately didn't get to surf there. Hopefully I'll get to next trip. Last place I surfed was the Washington coast, f*#king cold!
Was surfing NJ this morning. 35 degree water/35 degree air (F). Today's wetsuit technology is incredible... except when a small, innocuous wave hit me just above the chin. The wave opened my hood like a balloon and I get a 35 degree flush that I felt down to my feet. Good times.
Why do surf leashes break so easily, and is there any good reason why they aren't rated like climbing gear or at least designed to handle greater forces?
I've seen so many leashes (or tent-stake-grade connector cord) break, and often in piddling conditions. If climbing gear failed as often as leashes half of us would probably be dead!
I buy good quality leashes and hang on to my board--the only leash I've had break recently was super old. I also take care to rinse them (not sure that actually makes a difference) and keep them out of the sun (pretty sure that does make a difference!). Obviously you can't always hang on to your board, but you're usually better off as are those around you.
What are you using "tent-stake-grade connector cord" for?! Maybe to attach board to leash? I put a small loop of 5 mm accessory cord on all my boards and attach my leash to that. I rarely leave the leash on my board...
Will be in San Diego Sunday afternoon through Wednesday. Looks to be small so we'll head out to Black's to maximize conditions in the mornings. Or maybe be in and around PB Point for any evening glass off that might occur since we're staying in an Airbnb an easy walk from there.
Morning Glass in a great book and even has a climbing trip with Chouinard and Hennek worked into the plot. I got to know Mike through a mutual friend Dean Betts in Wilson Wyoming years ago. Mike had the first patent for a snowboard-way way ahead of the times............
If I recall correctly he had come up with a snowboard type device that was similar to two skis together. But he stood on it like skis instead of sideways like a skateboard.
Talk Story 2
Posted on 18 February 2019
There were a lot of advantages growing up surfing in Southern California. One of them when the winter storms would mess up the ocean for surfing, we could drive to the local mountains in a couple of hours and ride frozen water waves. There were a lot of European skiers instructing and free-riding with decades of skiing experience that influenced style and skill. A lot of style is predicated by body shape and mind set. Mike being tall athletic and having the mindset, rapidly became an excellent stylish skier. It was a definite learning advantage to come from a surfing background.
The learning curve usually started with "snowplow" turns as name implies, you form a v shape with the tips of the skis together and the tails of the skis spread apart plowing the snow to control your speed ----- speed is only good if you can control it ------ next came the "stem christie" modifying the snow plow into a turn by splaying the tail of the downhill ski further out from the uphill ski and applying pressure on the downhill edge to initiate a turn. When you mastered the stem christie it was time to "bend zee knees and the ankles keep the tips and the tails together and parallel ski"! Be careful though, do not let the tips of the skis cross or you could be in for a bad fall! Of course, that would happen, sometimes too often!
The creative genius Mike is, he came up with the Ah ha idea ----- all I have to do is glue these skis together, I’ll never "cross my tips together again" and I’ll have sort of a surfboard and call it the "monoski"! Turns out he may not have been the first to come up with that idea, but he rode the heck out of them, his style and skill matched the concept perfectly. It was always fun later on to tease him, Mike, if you had put the bindings in a surf stance you'd be "rich and famous" :-)
Ship Stern Bluff looks like it has a lot of climbing potential.
I think there was an incident a few years ago where a large chunk of that cliff fell off during a good swell while cameras were around. I may have seen the videos of that.
As I get older it's getting more difficult to fit increased volume into my beloved "every day short board": A fairly generic 6'-1" outline. I'm trying to get this board to 34 liters. I've added thickness out towards the rails and widened the nose. At some point, if this thing starts looking like a mini egg, I'll quit surfing.
When I was 40 my volume was 28 liters or: .18 liters per pound (my weight).
.18 L x 155 lbs = 27.9 liters
New old man volume at 53 is .22
.22 L x 155 lbs = 34.1 liters
The reasoning behind the ratio and not going straight to the volume is that I can upsize a board for a guy that weighs 180 for example, who may not be using volume as a component of board design.
Contractor, you're athletic. Don't kid yourself. I squeezed 40 liters into a 5.11 just to float my bloated, out-of-shape, corpulent bod. 34 liters... I could sink that :)
I use BoardCad and then build templates out of 1/8 masonite or luan. I'm 55, soon to be 56, and still ride sub-6 foot boards. But they need to carry volume. I run the rails full, wider planshapes and low entry rocker.
No, we got skunked while in SD; but NJ was firing. Go figure. Will be back out for the June gloom (I think) and then again in early September. Hoping for southern hemis and santa ana winds.
I'll miss this thread. Here are a few cool swells/waves I got to see this winter...and then enjoy a more attenuated version of the energy at other breaks. :-)
Honolua was firing double overhead plus one day that happened to coincide with a local contest, so I went out for a look. I have video of this kid getting barreled and just ripping, but not on Youtube...so no share. Find me on instagram if you're curious. :-)
Anyway, watching that wave made every cell in my body ache to be a better surfer.
When I showed up, I thought I was watching the men get tubed. It was the 12-13 year old boys.
Next to me a ~7 year old asked his 8 or 9 year old pal, “When you were out there, was it that big?”
And the elder grom replied matter-of-factly, “Doesn’t matter. If a good one comes, and you’re in the spot, you just go.”
I've replayed that line in my head a hundred times since then...maybe the best thing I learned this winter. Out of the mouths of babes...
So I got a bit chubby this winter due to a lame bicept- hence the old fat man turn on a 6-8 retro board I made for just such occasions.Gut is gone now and I'm back on a 6-2.