Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

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Messages 721 - 740 of total 1736 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
New Age II

climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
k.k used the bolts on the variant. Why not have unrivet?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
OK NewAge go for it.
New Age II

climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
@ Philo
You have been in Patagonia?
Not a problem. They pay me for this
Jean Gurtorju

climber
land of echoes
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
Then the only junk bolts are Maestri's and you can peacefully use all the others and still get it "by fair means"???

rampik

Social climber
the alps
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
ciao amici,
sono nuovo del forum, arrampico da 25 anni e sono stato in patagonia un po' di volte... spero di trovare qui degli amici che abbiano la mia stessa passione e con cui magari condividere delle belle esperienze in montagna.
Ho visto tante belle foto, complimenti!

rampik
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
Everyone still posting (including me) is simply proving John Long's point--the deed's been done, the future is here, and we're all just sitting on the sideline yapping about what yesterday was all about.

That route is gone--no more free rides to the summit of Cerro Torre. Toughen up, redirect your dreams elsewhere, or remain a sideliner.

Better yet, create something new somewhere yourself.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
The previous post says the following.


Hello friends,
are new to the forum, climb for 25 years and I was in Patagonia some 'times ... I hope to find friends here who have my same passion with which you may share some good experiences in the mountains.
I have seen many beautiful photos, congratulations!

rampik


Very Cool! Welcome Rampik
rampik

Social climber
the alps
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
thanks filo!

nice to meet you
Snorky

Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
Something to consider, especially in light of the assertion that Cerro Torre is in the domain of Chalten locals (Chalten was built in 1985):

Cerro Torre lies within Argentina's Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This World Heritage site is called Los Glaciares, and it meets the criteria of a natural, not a cultural, UNESCO site. There are official criteria. While the selection committee determined that the area contains "superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance" and "are outstanding examples representing major stages of earth's history, including the record of life, significant on-going geological processes in the development of landforms, or significant geomorphic or physiographic features", they didn't consider the Compressor Route "to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius", although many folks in this thread have made just that comparison.

Some choice snippets from the UNESCO website:

"World Heritage is the designation for places on Earth that are of outstanding universal value to humanity and as such, have been inscribed on the World Heritage List to be protected for future generations to appreciate and enjoy."

"It is based on the premise that certain places on Earth are of outstanding universal value and should therefore form part of the common heritage of mankind... While fully respecting the national sovereignty, and without prejudice to property rights provided by national legislation, the States Parties recognize that the protection of the World Heritage is the duty of the international community as a whole."

"187 countries (called States Parties) have ratified the Convention, making it an almost universally accepted set of principles and framework of action."

"The site is the property of the country on whose territory it is located, but it is considered in the interest of the international community to protect the site for future generations. Its protection and preservation becomes a concern of the international World Heritage community as a whole." (emphasis added)

"A site can be proposed for inscription only by the country in which the property is located." (So this was Argentina's idea)

"The World Heritage Committee relies on citizens to play an active role in protecting World Heritage sites." (Thanks Hayden and Jason for volunteering.)

Mike Libecki

climber
the moment of now
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
@Middendorf, well said.
rampik

Social climber
the alps
Jan 25, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
sorry for my bad american language, i will utilise a traductor

here is my friend some years ago when we "chopped" all the slovenian route in Torre south face (Karo-Jeglic) and we found too many normal piton in the route...

Cerro Torre is better totally clean, not only bolts but also normal piton...

(photo taken at polacos camp)

Credit: rampik
rampik

Social climber
the alps
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
943, stay tuned
The cad

climber
Does it matter, really?!?
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Since when does one get credit for a route that they didn't finish?

Sure CM did the heavy lifting, but he bailed before the top.

Therefore a historical failure of epic proportions, not a route.

Uh, The Larry is right here!
We've all been wrong for decades.
From now on, let's call it the Bridwell Route.

So, K&K have chopped the Bridwell Route.

What difference does it make?
Ridiculous.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Nice post Snorky.


Nice effort and good on you Rampik.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Thanks Mike--Good to see you're still living the dream.

I might have some new gear for you to try out sometime--I'm getting another backyard shop going...

cheers
New Age II

climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
@ Philo
Why K.K. have not taken the compressor?
Do you know where the compressor?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
The Compressor truly belongs in a museum somewhere. It's a climbing relic right up there with the Dolt Cart.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Maybe they could bring the Dolt cart out of retirement to get the compressor down. Now that would be cool.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Who is going to carry it down? If it ever comes down I think it well be a 5000ft tumble down to the glacier.
Jean Gurtorju

climber
land of echoes
Jan 25, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Seeing rampik's picture repost my question:

Then the only junk bolts are Maestri's and you can peacefully use all the others and still get it "by fair means"???

I think it's ridiculous and highly hypocrite...
Messages 721 - 740 of total 1736 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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