Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

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TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 24, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
yankeepeerla

WTF?

la vostra ironia scivola sul piano inclinato della mia indifferenza, yankeepeerla

translates to

The irony of your slides on the inclined plane of my indifference, yankeepeerla

A piece of paper is an ink-lined plane.
An inclined plane is a slope up.
A slow pup is a lazy dog.

Ipso facto, a piece of paper is a lazy dog.

just sayin
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 24, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Dingus: Read "has to" descriptively and not normatively. Used normatively: Persons in this thread has mentioned chopping and The Nose. And both you and I know that the Italians are free to do whatever they want if they have the moral courage and are willing to take the blame, the threats and the possible legal consequences. As I see it this discussion is about the future and not about the past.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Dickinson is telling the story I thought every climber in the Englishspeaking world knew very well. Thanks!

Even a quick look at this thread makes it clear that hardly anyone knows the story Leo told.

The general assumption seems to be that Maestri went to Patagonia, put up a route on CT which, while it seems sort of overbolted, is part of history, so why would anyone chop it?

In fact, Maestri went back to Patagonia because he was enraged that people would doubt his claimed (but now disproven) earlier ascent, and drilled that line as a way of telling the entire climbing world to f*#k off. It was a deliberate insult, made by a man now generally agreed to have lied about his earlier climb.

Why anyone would see it as something worth preserving is baffling.
Gene

climber
Jan 24, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
In fact, Maestri went back to Patagonia because he was enraged that people would doubt his claimed (but now disproven) earlier ascent, and drilled that line as a way of telling the entire climbing world to f*#k off.

+1
Said line never completed by Maestri, who never summited Cerro Torre, which makes the status of the CR as a historical shrine of some sort even stranger.
nature

climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Why anyone would see it as something worth preserving is baffling.

+1

Again, it's more about people having their panties in a bunch and less about what Mr. Dickinson has to say.
enzolino

climber
Galgenen, Switzerland
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
I don't want to start a process again on the '59 Egger Maestri route but there are several things that don't make so much sense to me ...
A. Maestri is described as a "huge-ego" climber ... so why he credited the lead of the climb of the first ascent of Cerro Torre to Toni Egger?
B. 60 bolts are mentioned ... but in this interview he didn't say they used so many bolts ...
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/0604/whats_new/cesare-maestri.html
C. He was found half dead on the Cerro Torre' glacier ... how can people pretend he can remember precise details of his experience after such a traumatic event where he also lost a partner and a friend?
I have another comment ... I read positive comments of respect towards Maestri's achievement from climbers of the caliber of Hans Kammerlander, Reihnard Karl, Simone Moro, etc on the Compressor route ... and we read here other more positive accounts beside that of Leo Dickinson ...
My conclusion is that the opinion on the Compressor route is disputable, and two boys don't have the right to do what they did just because they summited the mountain ...
It's also interesting that the two most important italian forum strongly condemn the action of K&K ... and I wonder why these differences between american and italians ... and I don't believe that the reason is Maestri's nationality (Ferrari or Salvaterra are italian as well) ... besides the stories of Garibotti and Dickinson, have you ever read Maestri's books?

PS. Melissa ... where are you? Would you like to spend a romantic night with me on one of the Nose's ledges? You can choose which one but ... the Sickle is a little too crowded (I like intimacy) and the Dolt Tower a little bit too smelly ... I would suggest El Cap Towe ... very flat and comfortable ... ;-)
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
Nope, the opinion on the compressor route is not disputable. Too far of a stretch to call it climbing.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
Rolo, thanks for keeping us informed about this...

Credit: philo


It's hard to argue with such a remarkable and accomplished climber.
A Man who not only has a top flight web site.
Credit: philo
But....
A candy loved around the world.
Credit: philo
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
two boys don't have the right to do what they did just because they summited the mountain ...

They didn't do what they did because the summited, they chopped the bolts because they knew they didn't belong on that beautiful mountain.
nature

climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
you're a dick if you call them boys.

edit: ionlyski I realize you did knot.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Jan 24, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
Not I. upthread
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
Well don't call em lads either!

Damnit all to hell! Or something!

DMT
Kimbo

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
In fact, Maestri went back to Patagonia because he was enraged that people would doubt his claimed (but now disproven) earlier ascent, and drilled that line as a way of telling the entire climbing world to f*#k off. It was a deliberate insult, made by a man now generally agreed to have lied about his earlier climb.

hmmm not sure you or anybody is in a position to know exactly what maestri's motivations were.
ALPINEMAN

Trad climber
bogota
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Maestri was a genius not to go on top in 1970, but this cannot understand nerds
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
hmmm not sure you or anybody is in a position to know exactly what maestri's motivations were.

To some extent that is true. But he left a lot clues lying about that would make one believe the his prime motive was "I'll show those as#@&%es!"

Given his history of bold, cutting-edge climbing, and his obvious anger at the doubters, it's difficult to believe he thought that hauling a gas-powered compressor up CT to bolt his way to the top (or almost to the top) was the next logical step in alpinism.

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
this cannot understand nerds

Exactly! We agree. :)

Who can understand these.
Credit: philo


When we respond with these.
Credit: philo



And yet secretly know these are the most correct.
Credit: philo
Snorky

Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
f˛radaiball,

do better.

P.S. The rain is token mouse, so back up house nighttime in the your hair.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
PS. Melissa ... where are you? Would you like to spend a romantic night with me on one of the Nose's ledges? You can choose which one but ... the Sickle is a little too crowded (I like intimacy) and the Dolt Tower a little bit too smelly ... I would suggest El Cap Towe ... very flat and comfortable ... ;-)


Ohhh, buddy, everything you wrote previous to this now sits with your bow-wow of a postscript. Good job on negating everything you wrote before with this remarkably piggish comment.


Oink oink oink. Translate that.
Kimbo

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
To some extent that is true. But he left a lot clues lying about that would make one believe the his prime motive was "I'll show those as#@&%es!"

yes, one might surmise that, but i really believe that whatever one's predilection is, that's the way one will interpret the limited data. or so it seems to be....

remember that you are trying to justify the (impulsive) removal of these bolts, based on your personal interpretation of maestri's motives- a rather tenuous approach i think.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
So by the way is your interpretation of Kruk & Kennedy's motivations.
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