Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th


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Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jan 25, 2012 - 11:45am PT
I don't think anyone has ever questioned whether or not Cesare Maestri was a badass mofo.

It's his ethics and motivations - as well as his honesty - that have been called to question for over 50 years.


Trad climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 11:49am PT
PS. thanks God foradaiball account has been deactivated....

sorry guys for this Italian bug.....keeping writing in italian when nobody could understand him

gretz form Europe
New Age II

Jan 25, 2012 - 11:51am PT
There is the translator

Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 25, 2012 - 11:56am PT
I see loads of criticism to Maestri. But most misses the points that we are talking about 2 kids

They are not kids. though you are a prick for calling them that.

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
The Google translation of Mariana Fava's letter

In response to the interview with the 4 climbers [Rolando Garibotti, Colin Haley, Jason Kruk, Hayden Kennedy] in The Austral Parakeet:
An act of this ilk do not have any defense, I also believe that absolutely absurd arguments were used and no basis for justification.
NOT IN ARGENTINA where requested visas, green card, passport of the community, letter of invitation from a relative, cash or credit card, work contract or permission to enter, it happens in countries like Australia, Canada, United States Spain, "where you'll probably get well," yes, once you get inside.
I also think that two people like you, who since coming to this town were well received, where many young people take them as referring climbing, aggression did not need the entire community free of El Chalten saying it has no right to say they "do not step on the mountain," that people usually spend a lot of respect grows in the mountains, even from the people, or that the reaction in defense of the act committed "surprises" or "borders on discrimination" (discrimination: Separating distinguish, differentiate. Give inferior treatment to an individual or community on racial, political, religious, etc.)..
In addition to amaze me that having fallen into squalor to defend an act of vandalism (vandalism inclination to destroy and devastate without consideration and respect for others) as performed on the path of the compressor using the victimization, it leaves me a certainty: are arrogant and poorly educated. It is no use to walk around town with satisfied smiles, as if they saved a life. They should feel ashamed.
I also wonder:
What if someone spray painted the picture of the Mona Lisa because she does not like your smile?
What if a tourist were to Chaltén see something that does not like and just delete it?
What if an Argentine positions take out nails for over 40 years of a wall in USA ????????
I think it would be better to preach examples of respect for the new scale, instead of giving examples of arrogance and inconsistency.
Living means to act consistently as we speak, think and talk like common sense and think with your heart if we want to get romantic, believe me it's worth.
I mean it's useless to pull out nails with one hand and pull with the other gas cylinders from the top.
Utopias should leave aside, because even though they believe that "the mountains are all" I regret to inform you that these are well ARGENTINAS.
Make no mistake to be well received is the same as being considered local.
And finally, before speaking of humility would make it.

No best regards,
Mariana Fava.

Social climber
The internet
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
The first ascent would have been done in 2012.
The route would have gone on aid, for sure, in the 70's or 80's, at the latest. Plenty nearby of similar character did.

However, most of these big free climbs require an aid line to follow and this route was no exception.

I agree in general with the argument of "Theft of the Future", but the bolt ladder really just robbed some aid climber of a bunch of piton placements.

Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
Age has nothing to do with this was Maestri any more wise at his age for putting the bolts up in the first place? I think not

Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
he can't: he says he's ben banned from SuperTopo...

whack-o-mole. classic.

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
At the heart of the David Lama piece (in Spanish) was the notion that . . .
"the question is more about destroying or not destroying."

What makes this tricky is that Kennedy and Kruk are being accused by some of destroying an abomination that according to Leo Dickenson and many others, then and now, consider to be a sacrilege and violent act of destruction on one of the most elegant and spectacular rocks formations on earth.

Of course, no authentic climber would call the compressor debacle a "route," whereby dozens of bolts bristle from the rock within inches of good cracks. This, simply put, is "scaffolding," as Leo said.

The thinking seems to be that the route was always there. Now it has been climbed, and the original desecration can be done away with. Good or bad - I cannot say and I do not know. But I do know that arguments that Kennedy or Kruk did not have the "right" to do so are totally irrelevant to the simply fact that they DID do it. The vanguard do not ask permission.

Once again, it's great theater either way.

New Age II

Jan 25, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
The vanguard do not ask permission. ???????
Also be stupid not have to ask...........
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
I think Werner nicely put to words something I've been struggling to articulate:

Maestri's epics on the Torre represents a mad passion, an insanity, an intense romantic affair, it's a huge part of "LIFE"
played out on the grand scale, that's bigger than him, that's not stale, bland, and boiled down to just mere hardware.

Right or wrong in the eyes of us mere mortals we miss this so many times .....

I've understood this in my heart all along, even though I couldn't formulate the words to express it.

Climbing itself represents mad passion, an insanity and an intense romantic affair. Climbing is lots of other things too but these three qualities seem to resonate throughout the various sub disciplines of our way. And even those of us who may have quelled or even lost our mad passion, we see it in others and like a nice drink from a clear mountain spring, are invigorated by being in its presence. We climbers DIG madness, passion and romantic notions; we do.

The bolts on Maestri's way are chopped. What's done is done.

I am simply repeating something I've said about this very route, prior to the chop...

Celebrate the madness. Revel in the insanity of it all. Understand your own love of the sport is not a singularity, there are others always with you.

Slap that mad bastard on the back and get to your next pitch.

May the compressor remain hanging from is lofty perch of insanity for many years more. There's 50 years of madness hanging up there, please don't chop it out of some Taliban sense of propriety. The compressor is not yours to chop. It belongs to us all, as does the tale of Maestri and Kennedy and Kruk and Dickinson and lots of others too.

Celebrate the madness. CELEBRATE IT. We climbers are strengthened by the likes of Maestri and Crowley and a host of other mad fools who thought they could live forever.


Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
Que pasaría si alguien pintara con aerosol el cuadro de la Gioconda porque no le gusta su sonrisa?

More like what if someone slashed the Mona Lisa with a knife - pretty much what Maestri did - if you are going to use a painting to illustrate the point. Cerro Torre is the art and the compressor the desecration - how do you get that so ass backwards?

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
if you are going to use a painting to illustrate the point.

The compressor was the desecration, not the art.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
Since when does one get credit for a route that they didn't finish?

Sure CM did the heavy lifting, but he bailed before the top.

Therefore a historical failure of epic proportions, not a route.


Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
The Larry: apparently in Italy and Argentina.

Trad climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
The vanguard do not ask permission.

The "vanguard"? what silly pomp!

Sorry, but i cannot fathom anyone calling this a "vanguard" action (for reasons i stated previously).

Trad climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:42pm PT

Cerro Torre is the art and the compressor the desecration - how do you get that so ass backwards?

cerro torre is a piece of rock, sculpted/formed by the impersonal(?) forces of nature; in no way does it fit the definition of "art".

it doesn't give a hoot if someone stuck 10 pounds of metal into it once upon a time; it takes a human with ideas in her/his head for that!

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
That's great that you got to state your points Kimbo.
But that facts are in spite of general disagreement Maestri was not swayed from his actions when he was the vanguard nor were K&K.

They changed nothing but the future which has already happened.

Trad climber
Jan 25, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
i do find the lack of responses to the argentinian's letter posted on a previous page both interesting and telling, a continuation of the seeming arrogance that the "pro bolt-remover" crowd seems to display....

Jan 25, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
OT: "silly pomp" is, more or less, "blowjob" in Italian.
Great post.

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