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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Vague? I though I was being quite liberal with giving info. It's there, go get it. What more do you need? Besides, nobody gives a sh#t about climbing in a place like that. You have to walk more than 50ft from your car to the climbing, who's going to bother with that? On top of that, there are no topos with detailed bolt counts, well mapped out cruxes and groomed trails. I think having more people out there climbing is about the last thing that place needs.
As for Eagle Rock, same thing accept you have that 4WD trail and all the climbs are 5.11 or harder. That pretty much weeds out everyone who wouldn't go out and find the place on their own.
BTW, nice farmers tan I got going on there, thanks for sharing;)
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penurn
Social climber
Gosport, Maidenhead
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Apr 16, 2012 - 03:50am PT
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Thanks for sharing the new routes. I especially love the names of the routes: Swallows Tale and Monkey Flower. I will definitely look at these in order to check if I can also climb there. To climb new routes is always something special and very exciting so hopefully I can do it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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Swallow Tail is a good route.
Half the fun of climbing there is figuring out it's secrets on your own.
Have some adventurous spirit man. There is tons of obvious stuff that is climbable with only gear that goes at very moderate grades.
I like figuring out things and having an adventure, but it is not that easy to convince other people to go to some random place and not even have a climb in mind...if I lived 30 minutes away, yeah I'd go and check it out on any day I am free. A bit different when I have a 4 hour drive (one way).
PS: long approaches don't bother me. 10K ft of elevation gain and 20+ miles in a day are not that bad..
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Here's a great new route. Bolted third class. You can see the first bolt below my feet and the second in between my feet.
it almost looks steep sideways
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Petch, don't be such a hater!
It's a worthy route for beginners and definitely an "independent line"...
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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Hate knott. You forgot to add three year olds
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Kevmn
Gym climber
Snob Franpsycho
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Apr 16, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Salmanizer, is that a beer in your chalk bag? Classic!
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RattyJ
Trad climber
Pine Grove
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Mar 11, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
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bumping this thread to give a shout out to salaminizer who sent a new route at sugarloaf this past weekend. I belayed him while he squeaked out the ascent in an epic effort on the forth try of the day.
It's located on an obvious round 80 ft boulder above sugarloaf proper and goes at what I suspect is a very sandbagged 5.12d.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 12, 2014 - 06:27am PT
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bitchen, sal.
good effort, as always.
you place bolts from hooks?
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2015 - 11:20am PT
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Hey Chad or ?
(Not sure if I have a current email address for you so posted here)
SUGARLOAF:
1) Pan Dulce: you straightened the pitch after the 10d bolted blunt arete with one bolt? Does the route go in 1 pitch to the top from the top of the 10d pitch or 2 ? Gear needed? I remember looking at the pitch you placed a bolt on and thinking above the roof there was no bolts of gear, but....?
2) Beast of Burden: Ever done the 5.9R additional 45 feet to the top? Was it an add-on or was the original chopped?
3) Tapestry: Think me/you should go up with a bottle of nail polish and paint the 2 bolts to make clear what is that route?.
4) Ghost in The Machine: End of P1 /start of P2 still needs straightening (I received a thumbs up from Drummond few years ago who said he bailed Right to Bolee Gold anchor out of mental exhaustion not on the basis of his vison for the line)
5) "Pyramid Rock" on the way to Sugarloaf: Jay's (who passed away last year) route need completing. I've spoke with Ron Vardenaga and Charlie Down's about it. I plan on dropping the burnt out tree draped over it and finishing it. Bolts on lead as he had started and route name and creds to him. Your thoughts?
SPIRES:
1) Ever do Beast of No Nation (the old Harrison direct TR on back of Upper Spire but with a different finish and it;s own anchor). Good route. I was wondering what you thought the grade. 11d I though but...?
2) Have you done the 2 pitch arete route right of Fear of Flying. Second pitch is one of the best at the Spires I think. Never gets done. Fist pitch I made a direct start and replaced old bolts on it a couple of years ago. Probably 11b if done direct instead of original start out of F of F
See you around
Aidan
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 29, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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I said I wouldn't ever climb there again
That was dumb
Plenty of climbs to choose from
Fantastic climbing down memory lane
Although a pitiful state the surrounding forest is in!
Only saw one other party yesterday!
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