Discussion Topic |
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CF
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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Anybody know if this has ever been climbed? I had heard that Mead Harrgis climbed it years ago.
There is also a spectacular ice ribbon all the way down Clouds Rest visible from Omlsted Point.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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The road is still open. This could be an interesting year for ice access.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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I climbed it in '79 or '80 with Kane Brightman and Chas and Anne McQuarie. Chas and Anne were the winter rangers at the time. Skiing in from Lee Vining with all the gear, climbing the thing, and skiing back out was a five or six day expedition. I broke a pair of Hexcels at the base of the route and had to ski all the way out with one ski that basically didn't slide.
We had heard that Charlie Porter had previously climbed it. Maybe with Mead, I don't know. We figured ours was probably the second ascent.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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theres also a rap route if you have a 70m rope on the very left side of the black streak (crystal ball 5.10a/b). 4 raps
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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And there is a rap route to the right (Crystal Meth 5.8), 3 raps with a 70m, but still webbing/rings at the top 2 stations (I think). Close with a 70, watch rope ends. Approx anchor locations:
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 18, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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a spectacular ice ribbon all the way down Clouds Rest Logistics seem reasonable(?) - From 120, down Airplane Gully to the base of CR, summit, descend HD trail to valley.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 18, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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The road is still open. This could be ...
I'd read that the Tioga road is open. Does this mean all the way through the Meadows, or just up to the park entrance? Just interested...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Dec 18, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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Open means all the way.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 18, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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Does that happen very often?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 18, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
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We figured ours was probably the second ascent.
What was it like Bob? Pics?
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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Porter climbed it with Billy Nichol.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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nice iceman! (cragman), thats some good looking stuff. 3-4 pitches of wi3???
walk off or rap?
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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You guys are loving it!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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That looks like a great line.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
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fos, heres a shot from today in the valley, like you i think of walt every time i look up there, you dont have any pics from the old days do you???
unfortunately the dream stream below is not in
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
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Wow! I bet a bunch of unusual ice is forming in these conditions. Strike while the iron is hot!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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Woah, nice.
(eyes bugging out)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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It's super duper rare to get that freeze formation on Sentinel Falls.
It's only got one ascent ever. Right Kevin, Dan ...?
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
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werner, yeh i'm pretty sure walt and fosburg are the only ones to climb the whole thing from bottom to top
dreamstream + yabo tooth + upper sentinel = over 2000' ice
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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Crazy that the Tioga road is open. Thinking of maybe saddling up...
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
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come on down fos, ill set you up
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PeteC
climber
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Dec 19, 2011 - 12:19am PT
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The previously mentioned Clouds Rest ice was, in fact, very very fun. Climbed it today.
730 ft. 4 pitches.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 19, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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I saw this guy on the way through the meadows today.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 19, 2011 - 12:34am PT
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good job guys, way to get after it!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 19, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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Oh $hit, time to quit my job.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Dec 19, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Wow, we may not have snow but the ice sure looks sweet. Envious too but glad you guys are out enjoying it! Keep posting up pics.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 19, 2011 - 02:57am PT
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Here's a pic of the entire Sentinel Falls with Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg approximately at the first and second belays on the first day (1/8/89) of their several day ascent - the first and only ascent of the entire falls. Kevin Cox and I had climbed the Dream Stream the day before and, not prepared to bivy, had rapped off... It had snowed lightly during the day, hitting us with spindrift avalanches periodically that spanned the entire width of the ice. As I recall, the air temp was below 10 F when we got down to my truck somewhat after midnight.
Cropped/enlarged version of same pic:
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 19, 2011 - 03:05am PT
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Here's another pic of the entire Sentinel Falls (from 04):
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 19, 2011 - 03:47am PT
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Any more pics/ details PeteC?
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 19, 2011 - 11:05am PT
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Pete did you get a shot from Olmstead Pt? Good job!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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Awesome shots and thread...
Thanks all!
Brian
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 22, 2011 - 02:08am PT
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Questions for those who climbed this drugdome route:
How would you rate it (honestly)? Did it protect well, or had long questionable sections?
Did you walk off, or rapped the route to the side?
I really want to do it, but don't want to get over my head (started ice climbing a bit only last winter).
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 22, 2011 - 07:04am PT
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vitaliy, the climb is two pitches, or around 300'. 3 raps with 70 m rope to the west of route on crystal meth, actually if you lead the last pitch of ice and instead of climbing to trees, cut right to the last anchor of meth it saves a fair bit of time on the raps (i saw a couple parties do this)
i have not done the route, but have climbed the rock underneath it, so know the angle, and watched 7 parties climb it, it looked like pro wherever you wanted it and looks to be in the class 3 range,(im sure someone thats done it will chime in here)
in the photo you can see the steep little section just above the climber (with a bit of chandelier icicles), which is more powerful climbing, but there is an abundance of small ledges to go for (and throughout the route)
looks like pure fun, almost as much fun as spending all day taking pics of guys climbing it :)
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 22, 2011 - 07:40am PT
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heres a couple more
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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Thank you mctwisted! Wish all of us could have a photographer like you aroud!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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nICE
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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So Cool.........Green with Envy. Nice Job!!!
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j_ham
climber
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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Climbed yesterday, WI3, 2 pitches, 3 raps on the climber's right of flow, we used a single 70m rope.
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PeteC
climber
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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Wow! The ice is much thicker now than when we climbed it!
Note that an early start is good because that last pitch is in the sun later and those screws will heat up right at the steepest part...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Now themz am sum purty pics.
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superbum
Ice climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
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Wahoo! That's me in the blue jacket, following the crux section! I would say the crux alone is a contender for WI4- if the route was fresh (not picked out at all) and if it was cold (not in sun). Sure, it is short, but it is steep and chandeliery, and w/o banged out boot pockets and pick holes, I would have gotten a bit more pumped...just my opinion.
the rest is WI3 at the very hardest, w/ most feeling easier. Beautiful route.
McTwisted! My e-mail is vicsahobo@hotmail.com if you feel like forwarding some shots to me! :)
Victor
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 22, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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Those are some beautiful photos. I love the different colors.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
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so cool mctwisted and Superbum! Good job on getting after it.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 22, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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Was playing on that roadside ice the other day...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 22, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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Wow...that looks fantastic!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Dec 22, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
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That frozen lake pic reminds me that it would be so cool to ice skate under the diamond on Chasm lake in RMNP.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 22, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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victor, pics sent
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Dec 22, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
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Those routes look like alot of fun. I can't believe how little snow there is there. No es la nina, es la nada!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 22, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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Holy crap! this Ice climbing is madness! I can't believe it's actually legal.
I also can't believe the guys hiking in to climb the ice on cloud's rest in the winter when Growing up on Half Dome hasn't had a second ascent that I know about. (hard but probably undone due to the hike)
Which goes to show that rockclimbers are pussies
Signed
Mr. Pussy
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
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More fun on the ice pics...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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Ice all over the place, plus you can drive to it.
Climbed the roadside stuff on the way up the pass, pretty breezy this am. 8 deg. @ 8
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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This has to be one the most unique threads here ever. Really great to get to see this. Many thanks to all.
[edit] and especially the spontaneous feeling of what was likely the level of enthusiasm Walt had that day. What a great photo.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 23, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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bump
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 23, 2011 - 02:39am PT
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Unclimbed?
The FA-ist(?) just posted to the yosemite ice thread.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 23, 2011 - 03:14am PT
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mctwisted will be snapping tons of photos on Sunday too right ; )
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 25, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Happy Holidays!
Three of us climbed this one yesterday. Magical times in the Meadows...
Thanks for all the beta and pictures above.
Cheers, Brian
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Dec 25, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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Bump!
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dit
Mountain climber
eastside
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Hi
A friend just forwarded this thread.
In late November I was hiking down Tenaya Canyon when I saw this thing coming in
Andy Selters went back two weeks later, pretty fun
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Amazing, John. BTW, Does Pywiack see (ice) traffic?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Is the booth at tioga pass manned currently?
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jaybro, it wasn't the other day
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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The Tioga Pass kiosk looked boarded up and empty when I went through last week.
We did the route on Drug Dome on Thursday, 12/29 along with at least three other parties (hi Doug :) The route was getting some luv, that's for sure.
Some thin parts on the first pitch made for fun climbing, and really enjoyed the second pitch. I vaguely remember seeing a name attached to the route at some point while reading about it some years ago, but for the life of me cannot recall what it was. I'm also curious about the FA history. I posted a route page on mountainproject here -
http://mountainproject.com/v/unnamed-ice-route/107421551
Corrections welcome.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Sounds like this climb is hanging in there.
Does anyone have an update on conditions over the last few days?
Thanks & Cheers, Brian
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Drove by today, looked like a fair amount of ice from the road.
Pretty warm today, it was t shirt weather
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Thanks F10.
Happy New Year!
Brian
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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dit, saw your ice skating videos. You should skate 1000 Island Lake - would be surreal.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Cragman and CF... any chance of using those pics at UKClimbing.com for a news report?
All the best,
Mick
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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I don't ice climb but my buddy Ted spent Christmas in Yosemite and he sent me these pictures that had me wondering.....has Vernal Falls ever formed enough to be climbed?
Apparently there was a Sasquatch sighting this year....could've been the medicinals.......
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EnFuego
Mountain climber
Seal Beach, Ca
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Jan 11, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Ice in and around the valley has been spectacular this year. snow conditions suck, but hey, there's ice right now......
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marta cz
climber
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Jan 11, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Just did it yesterday with Gerbie and Dgriff. 6in screws mostly, warm and sunny by noon, Pretty Awesome!!!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jan 11, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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Nice Marta!! Next stop Canmore right?
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Jan 21, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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holy ice picks ,bat hooks,,get tool sharpners out,,I"ll always love wowafornia,,,,
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| Messages 1 - 78 of total 78 in this topic |
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