yosemite ice?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 270 of total 270 in this topic
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
silver strand is shaping up
silver strand is shaping up
Credit: mctwisted
silver strand and artist bowl
silver strand and artist bowl
Credit: mctwisted
tis the season, and some things are starting to look climbable, thought you hardcore guys like vitaliy would want to see this.
the strand is getting fatter every day, still has a hole in it where theres running water, and the first pitch is a little thin, but crux ice pitch looks thick enough. it probably is climbable but not protectable. ive seen it be alot better for leading, might be good in about a week???. artist bowl is looking thin. widows tears is not even close to having enough there
i have a bit of carpentry work to do up in foresta off and on this next month, so ill try to take pics every week when i drive by
also when reading the tahoe ice thread a guy was asking about easy to get to ice to play on in yosemite. we used to go up near nevada falls, not the mist trail but i think its the john muir trail, and right before the top of nevada falls, theres alot of ice on the trail itself, with t.r.ing below the wall (100+ feet?) and leading/bouldering on a blast cut above the trail, this is like 12' vert and then slab ice for 50'? all fairly mellow and a great spot to play for a few hours, with incredible views
CF

climber
Dec 10, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Silver Strand at .07
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 11, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
mctwisted - Thanks for posting these pics and condition report!


If you snapped any current/recent pics of the Widows Tears and Sentinel, it would be nice to see them, too.




gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Dec 11, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
That was me looking for noob ice beta... Thanks for the tip!

... wife and I met Sue last year while staying in one of the cabins. Didn't connect the names to the faces! Might have been stoopit enough to say we'd been climbing (you know, like some gnarly 7's?...).
<sheepish grin>
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
widows tears taken 12/10/2011
widows tears taken 12/10/2011
Credit: mctwisted
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 11, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
mctwisted - thanks for the WTears pic, too!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 11, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
That would be really cool to ice climb in YNP.
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:50am PT
Great pics! Sentinel Falls looked really awesome yesterday, thinking about going to check it out....
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:29am PT
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Yes, I was there too. Looking at it. And climbing warm rock : )
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
sentinel falls
sentinel falls
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
holly's right. upper sentinel falls looks pretty good, thats the section above the unconnected fang, (the fang i believe only had one ascent when walt and fosberg went up and did the whole enchilada from the ground (pretty sick stuff)
that upper sent. is i think 4 pitches of fun wi3, and stays good for awhile(stable)
where the strand and widows tears will fall off with a warm spell,sent. stays good
two ways to approach, now with the lack of snow, the four mile trail is the way to go, or if it snows a bit climbers can ski/snowshoe from badger, actually now if the road was open to badger you could ride your bike out there with the lack of snow (on the glacier point road)? but i bet its closed to the bottom till the ski area gets up to speed
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
silverstrand starting to look close to climbable
silverstrand starting to look close to climbable
Credit: mctwisted
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 17, 2011 - 03:32am PT
Thanks for the pics and conditions comments, mctwisted.

Scoped out ice conditions with binoculars on Wednesday (12/14/11).

Despite our wishful thinking, the Widow's Tears, Silver Strand, and Artist Bowl ice (also called Octopussy?) still appeared too thin. Developing, but not there, yet. We went with our fall-back plan (as expected) to climb warm rock in the sun on Wednesday and Upper Sentinel Falls ice on Thursday.

Temp info is available on sites like this: http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF?YYV

Widow's Tears, Silver Strand, and Artist Bowl ice on 12/14/11.
Widow's Tears, Silver Strand, and Artist Bowl ice on 12/14/11.
Credit: BMcC

Sentinel Falls - with 4 well formed upper pitches, Yabo's Tooth touchi...
Sentinel Falls - with 4 well formed upper pitches, Yabo's Tooth touching down, and water pouring down the bottom 4 pitches of the falls (the Dream Stream) on 12/14/11.
Credit: BMcC

Upper Sentinel Falls on 12/15/11. The 3rd and 4th pitches from the top...
Upper Sentinel Falls on 12/15/11. The 3rd and 4th pitches from the top were pretty wet in the early afternoon (the temp had been 25 in camp at 4 a.m. in the Valley, but rose to the mid-40s).
Credit: BMcC

Fun ice.
Fun ice.
Credit: BMcC






Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 17, 2011 - 09:59am PT
Nice

Hope it stays
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2011 - 11:53am PT
good job BMcC
yeh every ice climb ive ever done here has been wet, just part of the west side ice program, i remember on the crux pitch of upper sentinal putting in my tool and punching a hole that immediately started covering me with water like a hose on full blast
19 degrees here in e.p. so ice is still building
i bet it was nice not having to trudge around in 3' of snow up top to get to the base of the route
thanks for the pics, that is very inspiring,
if anyone is thinking of doing any ice in yosemite please let me know so i can take some pics from down below, thanks
dan
p.s. glacier point road open, which saves many hours of hiking to get in position to do upper sentinal falls
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Dec 17, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
Wow. Those Valley ice climbs could be the ultimates if they would only freeze up. Tempted to make the poor choice and buy a plane ticket as I have two weeks of vacation right now.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Dec 17, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
Who needs Ice. Plenty of Black Oaks to dry-tool in the valley.
Who needs Ice. Plenty of Black Oaks to dry-tool in the valley.
Credit: Walleye
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Dec 17, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
Either way you win dude, I'd buy the ticket. Worst case you spend the afternoon drooling over them from Little Wing.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 17, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
If we could only get a nice string of days with colder daytime temps...

A teensy bit farther to the top of the falls than this.
A teensy bit farther to the top of the falls than this.
Credit: BMcC

Nice views from up there:

Yosemite Falls and the Lost Arrow.
Yosemite Falls and the Lost Arrow.
Credit: BMcC

Credit: BMcC

Credit: BMcC

Credit: BMcC








mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
thanks for the great photos !!!
whiteFang
whiteFang
Credit: mctwisted
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
silver strand 12/19
silver strand 12/19
Credit: mctwisted
artist bowl
artist bowl
Credit: mctwisted
yabo tooth, dream stream is not in
yabo tooth, dream stream is not in
Credit: mctwisted
upper section of widows tears is in, but not lower section
upper section of widows tears is in, but not lower section
Credit: mctwisted
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 19, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
Oh c'mon Dan,

Let's see the lower section.


It depends on the definition of what "in" is

That's looking pretty meaty to me

It would be pretty cool to do The Tears with no snow on the ledges
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
ok kevin, let me see what i can dig up
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 19, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
I'd like to see it from my armchair, DM ...


Unless of course, you don't want to advertise ;-)
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
yeh kevin, the bonus for me would be walking down without having snow up to the armpits and wallowing for miles like the last couple times!!!:)
bottom of widows tears 12/19/11
bottom of widows tears 12/19/11
Credit: mctwisted
yabo tooth and below
yabo tooth and below
Credit: mctwisted
dream stream
dream stream
Credit: mctwisted
were getting the fairly low temps at night, but its shorts weather at the cookie during the day, so i know its pretty wet up there. im crossing my fingers for colder temps. seems like everything ive climbed here is wet though, till it gets dark and then of coarse we still have climbing to do and the ropes all freeze up to 15mm, and you cant use the belay devise. good thing we were taught the body belay! sometimes i wonder if these things should be best climbed at night when its cold and dry???
kev got any fa shots of widows you can share?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 19, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
Mark has the WT photos, Dan, what few there are.

That descent is a hellish gully wallow if you went the way we did. I remember Minx being covered with snow from head to toe, as he was wearing all pile, and we were basically ploughing our way down the gully sometimes in control, sometimes not so much. Fun times.

mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
here's a couple old shots of when peter and i climbed s.s. long ago, to keep the psych going
pretty fat, and i dig the funky sap color

first pitch silver strand
first pitch silver strand
Credit: mayfield
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 12:29am PT
Dreaming....
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 12:38am PT
Holy $hit that is FAT!!!
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 12:39am PT
brian, that not the first time ive been called a dreamer. its gonna happen man ???
peter on pitch three of silver strand
peter on pitch three of silver strand
Credit: mctwisted
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:44am PT
Hi Dan-

Dreaming... above, refers to my thoughts of climbing some of these climbs...

Great shots you have captured posted here!

Hoping to get on some of that soon. Are you looking for partners?

Cheers, Brian
fosburg

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:49am PT
Bump for ice!
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 20, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Dito Bump...
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
Snail-eye inducing hose monster 2004
Snail-eye inducing hose monster 2004
Credit: Walleye
fosburg

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
Nice Walleye, thickly veiled indeed...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 20, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
That view still gives me chills
fosburg

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
Warbler, much respect to you for your ascent of that badboy back in the day, it ranks very high in the history of Yosemite climbing in my opinion.
WBraun

climber
Dec 20, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
What fosburg said.

Warroll is bad to the bone.

You'd never catch me up there, I'll instantly turn into a popsicle .....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 20, 2011 - 07:51pm PT
It had to be done...

I mean, look at that line! You just can't ignore something like that if you're a climber.


We had a lot of time on our hands and didn't know we weren't ready for it til we topped out.


Git up there, Werner, you'd have a blast. Get Dan to drag you up it if you turn into a popsicle.

I feel this is the year for you
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
climber on drug dome this morning
climber on drug dome this morning
Credit: mctwisted
guys playing on the ice coming out of ellery lake &#40;lee vining canyon&#41;
guys playing on the ice coming out of ellery lake (lee vining canyon)
Credit: mctwisted
another party on drug dome in the afternoon
another party on drug dome in the afternoon
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
hey thanks for the great shots!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
Thickly veiled as in snail-eye inducing as opposed to snails-eye inducing.
JMC

climber
the swamp
Dec 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
Really cool - some rarely seen/climbed formations there.
Was it 1995 that was the monster year on the eastside? (Bridgeport flooded out). 2-3 pitches formed on the N. side of Lee Vining, Leversee and Andy Selters (though maybe not together) got on that thing. There was all kinds of ice madness down in Whitney Portal too, good times.
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
yeh, i remember leversee's voice whenever he talked about that thing, sounded real serious like, and in total awe, wason might have been there with him too. i look up there every summer when im cragging in that amphitheater, and try to imagine what it would look like, but its so overhanging and with the roofs its hard to picture (might be something like that wicked yabo tooth). wouldnt it be cool if someone had a shot of that thing (with those guys on it)???

10b4me

Boulder climber
Happy Boulders
Dec 21, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Dan, I think that's the same guys on that Drug Dome route. been there all day
McKenzie Long

climber
Dec 21, 2011 - 01:38am PT
Hey that is me belaying in the red jacket on Drug Dome! Crazy! And we were the second party, not on there all day.
tom Carter

Social climber
Dec 21, 2011 - 01:41am PT
Tell us! How did it go?

Dan, did Walt have a go at Illilouette?
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Dec 21, 2011 - 01:54am PT
Wanted to crosspost PeteC's Clouds Rest info from the Drug Dome thread if that's ok. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1697908&msg=1698491#msg1698491
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 21, 2011 - 02:16am PT
mctwisted is everywhere....watching.
fosburg

climber
Dec 21, 2011 - 09:47am PT
Walt and I climbed Illilouette Falls around 90/91. Sorry, no pictures.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Dec 21, 2011 - 10:55am PT
dan, on that ice you're talking about on the north side of lee vining canyon, i remember andy telling me that was a crazy formation with lots of overhanging chandelier ice. either he or his partner took a pretty big fall as i recall. i'll email andy and see if we can get a report.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:26am PT
Is that what people refer to as candlestick? or something..
gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:38am PT
Dunno why this is full of html tags, but looks like a good link.
http://www.iceclimb.com/CA_area.data

Searching for Candlestick does indeed mention it on N side.
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
heres a few shots from today, pretty sure drug dome had 5 parties climb it today! (and greg you did have the correct beta with the raps being on crystal meth) widows tears is liking this weather and getting thicker, artist bowl looks in, and the strand is hanging in and getting thicker
drug dome midday
drug dome midday
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
tears
tears
Credit: mctwisted
lower part of the tears
lower part of the tears
Credit: mctwisted
after googling widows tears to try to find a shot of mark chapman and kevin worrall on the fa, i stumbled across shots of nidivers crew up there doing some wild looking mixed climbing to get up to the fat ice, pretty sick looking stuff the mixed climbers are doing nowadays! makes me rethink if something might be climbable or not
tom Carter

Social climber
Dec 21, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
Fosburg

So.... tell us a Water Ice and Walt story about it!

Hasn't seen many attempts?

Have you had a look up there Dan?

Cool coverage of the phenomenon - Thanks!
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 08:50am PT
15 degrees here in e.p. at 2000' this morning!
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Dec 22, 2011 - 09:45am PT
35 in Yosemite Valley at 6:30 a.m. this morning, the warmest morning in weeks. I'm under Yosemite Falls, and there are some strange Pohono winds blowing, too, which can make it warmer.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:44am PT
skating on stilts
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:46am PT
42 at 8:30 in Yosemite Valley, very breezy & strangely warm.
fosburg

climber
Dec 22, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
Illilouette Falls is one of the most beautiful ice climbs I've ever seen, a stunning shade of blue. I really wish we'd taken a camera up there. I doubt it gets climbed much because aside from the usual problems with Valley ice, it's very hard to scope from any convenient locations.
Walt and I had been on somewhat of a roll ice climbing in Yosemite. We bagged the probable first ascent of Sentinel Falls and the super-unlikely Nevada Falls over the course of a few winters around 1990. We'd heard rumors Jay Smith was chomping at the bit to do Illilouette Falls and it was a route we'd talked about doing. Walt kind of loved it I think when he could imagine someone else gunning for the exact thing he wanted to do.
We walked up there during a particularly cold spell to have a look but also with all our gear just in case it was in. You almost have to get all the way to the base of that thing before you can even see it. We passed several promising lines on the right on the way up Tenaya Canyon. When we got to the base we were blown away because it was fully formed.
It was warm though, probably right around freezing and it kind of gave me the creeps because it's so big and such a high-flow route. The first pitch was totally running with water. I remember Walt saying something to the effect of, "This things gonna come down any minute, we gotta get on it!". He was right about the first but maybe not the second.
I remember a little discussion about what probably was going to be the second pitch and crux. Walt had lead the Yabo Tooth (although hanging to put in screws) on Sentinel Falls, and the crux of Nevada Falls so I felt strongly that I wanted the crux on this one just to keep it fair. He agreed willingly.
The route wound up being 3 pitches and not too hard technically, probably 4+/5 but very memorable for the beauty and remoteness of the location and as with all Valley ice climbs, the utter unlikeliness of it all.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 22, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
fos, that's really cool. I hope to have the good fortune to swing tools in Yosemite Valley one day
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
thanks Kevin for the story, every time i look up here i think of you guys
yabo tooth
yabo tooth
Credit: mctwisted
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 22, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
is it safe?
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
victor, tell matt i send him some pics soon, this is him right?
Credit: mctwisted
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
Credit: mctwisted
these shots look much better zoomed in just a tad, good resolution
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
top of silverstrand
top of silverstrand
Credit: mctwisted
bottom of s.s. 12/22/11
bottom of s.s. 12/22/11
Credit: mctwisted
todays shot of yabo tooth
todays shot of yabo tooth
Credit: mctwisted
white fang looks in
white fang looks in
Credit: mctwisted
artist bowl looks in, white fang is in, and upper sentinal falls is in, the yabo tooth looks good??? lets just hope the weather guys are wrong and its not going to warm up like they are saying
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
Had a great time climbing this formation near Stately Pleasure Dome today. This has been a great season for ice so far!

Ice formation near Stately Pleasure Dome, December 22, 2011
Ice formation near Stately Pleasure Dome, December 22, 2011
Credit: Wedberg
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
Wedberg - Excellent! Looks steep. How many pitches?
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 23, 2011 - 12:00am PT
Wedberg - Excellent! Looks steep. How many pitches?
Thanks, it was fun. It'll go with two 30m+ pitches with the transition happening at the big obvious ledge. My partner was nice enough to let me have the whole thing and I did the climb to just above the steepest section on the face in one pitch with a 70m rope. The photo I shared above was taken from the road. Here's the photo again for reference:
Ice formation near Stately Pleasure Dome, December 22, 2011
Ice formation near Stately Pleasure Dome, December 22, 2011
Credit: Wedberg

The lower area of the climb is difficult to see but actually has some difficult and delicate climbing on a couple of thin pillars. The large boulders are obscuring the view.

The main face visible in the photo is steep and thin. It took delicate placements and carefully placed 10cm screws (with screamers attached!).

I'm uploading to my photo gallery site photos that my partner and I took. They should all be up by tomorrow morning and I can post a link to them. In the meantime here are a couple more photos of the climb:

Climbing a small pillar on the lower section.
Climbing a small pillar on the lower section.
Credit: Wedberg
Above the lower pillar.  I stemmed my foot out on the rock to the righ...
Above the lower pillar. I stemmed my foot out on the rock to the right. Rock pro around 3/4" would have been handy here. The ice was poorly protected.
Credit: Wedberg
On the main face that's easily visible from the road.
On the main face that's easily visible from the road.
Credit: Wedberg

BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:41am PT
Wedberg - Nice pics.

When I looked at that ice on Tuesday-Dec20 in the afternoon, the wind was blowing and the air temp was pushing 40. The ice looked like it had seen a lot of sun and seemed pretty thin on the steep headwall.

Well done and congratulations!
Bill
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 23, 2011 - 10:23am PT
Thanks Bill,

The route gets morning sun at around 8-ish. The 22nd was definitely more windy than the 19th when Trevor and I climbed Drug Dome. The wind stayed with us for the entire time we were on the route. The air temperature remained cold and the ice never showed signs of water dripping. The sun leaves the route by early afternoon.

The photo galleries are almost done uploading now as I type this. You can view the rest of the photos here:

Tuolumne Ice December 22, 2011, Kurt Wedberg's Photos

Tuolumne Ice December 22, 2011, Trevor Anthes's Photos

Thanks again Bill. Perhaps I'll see you out there one of these days!!

Kurt
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 11:23am PT
good job wedburg, nice
18 degrees here in e.p.
i've been helf expecting someone to be on silver strand the last couple days, maybe today???
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 23, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
good job wedberg, nice
Thanks man... it was a fun climb. Thanks for all your pics of these various formations that are in right now.

Trevor is having trouble finding the history of this route we just climbed. Do you or anybody else out there know anything? Who did the FA? What year? Any cool stories about it?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Dec 23, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
Posting from LatteDa in Lee Vining. Just came over from the Valley. South rim of the Valley, all waterfalls are formed up as u can see from pics above. Ice skating on Tenaya lake on 6" of ice. Good ice in Lee Vining Cyn. Several parties climbing. Yours truly testing out the new Black Prophet tools I got from TYeary on the left side falls below the dam. Easy access right now. Pictures to follow when I get home n unload the camera.
JamesG

Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Dec 23, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
Man, I need to get out on some of this ice, anyone up for 1-2-12? I've done mostly snow slogs so steep ice will be new for me.
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
yabo tooth is starting to turn bluish
yabo tooth is starting to turn bluish
Credit: mctwisted
cooler the last couple days, so everything is building fatter!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 23, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
E and I did the upper Sentinal falls this morning. It was 3 fun pitches probably 600' worth of blue ice. First pitch WI4 second WI3 and the third a 2. A little wet but not to bad. We were hoping for a bigger prize like the Strand but we didn't feel like it was quite ready. We bagged the Drug Dome route and upper Sentinal going home with 5 pitches of ice neither of us had done before. I am driving home content.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 23, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
Spider, hopped on that stuff below the dam yesterday. Fun stuff and you can't beat the approach
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 23, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Say good bye to the Ice

just a prediction
gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Dec 24, 2011 - 06:41am PT
Anyone: where did yabo's tooth get it's name?
rdh

climber
Dec 24, 2011 - 11:16am PT
Anyone: where did yabo's tooth get it's name?

Yabo had this f*#ked-up tooth that he could pull out of its socket (and then put back into) with his tongue.
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
matt and victor digg'in it on drug dome
matt and victor digg'in it on drug dome
Credit: mctwisted
at least this one will be good for a couple months
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
matt and victor on drug dome ice
matt and victor on drug dome ice
Credit: mctwisted
dave

climber
Earth
Dec 24, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
Nice photos McTwisted one!

Kurt that looks cool, nice score.

Hopefully twill stay cold after this brief warm up in order to do some more mystery ice pitches
tom Carter

Social climber
Dec 24, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
Thanks for the story Fos.

Kurt I looked at that Thursday I think... isn't it right where "Fuel Rod" is located?

Nice score!

Thanks for all the post from everyone.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Dec 24, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
As promised, photos from Friday:
Ice on Tenaya lake. Groaning, popping, and boinging.
Ice on Tenaya lake. Groaning, popping, and boinging.
Credit: Spider Savage
A daring free solo on WI-zero, minus.
A daring free solo on WI-zero, minus.
Credit: Spider Savage
Easy ice on the left side just below Ellery Lake.
Easy ice on the left side just below Ellery Lake.
Credit: Spider Savage
Just below the Ellery Lake dam in Lee Vining Canyon.
Just below the Ellery Lake dam in Lee Vining Canyon.
Credit: Spider Savage
Ice in Lee Vining Canyon, Dec 23, 2011. Tioga Pass still open.
Ice in Lee Vining Canyon, Dec 23, 2011. Tioga Pass still open.
Credit: Spider Savage
Down in Lee Vining Canyon.
Down in Lee Vining Canyon.
Credit: Spider Savage
superbum

Ice climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 24, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
Yea, McTwist...Matt and I both have recieved yer photos! thanks again!

And nice job, Trevor and Kurt!! Matt and I looked at that, but didn't have time for a "close look..." maybe next week??? :)


So psyched for my next days off!!!!!

vic
perswig

climber
Dec 24, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
SS, bent-shaft Shrikes in the 2nd pic?
My first 'real' WI tools. Poor technique still led to sore knuckles.

Dale
big piner

Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
Dec 24, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
McTwisted -- thanks for the great photos!!! Climbing the white line on Drug Dome with Vic was fun, and to have you capture a few images was the coolest gift ever. You are the Santa I never had.
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
since there's a few more ice climbers now than back when i used to climb ice, i just wanted to let you guys know that the ice climbs in the valley area that survive the warm snaps are usually upper sentinal and white fang (they are both much more stable than the ice down lower in the valley. both are up high and in the shade, and a pretty quick approach now with the glacier point road open. theres some pretty good info from tommy's post on the upper sentinal back a few posts, i'm not sure if my beta to him was correct for these conditions but you can almost walk down to the base of the 3-4 pitches if you take the ramp down (to the east of the climb), we had snow years ago when i did it so did perhaps one rappel to get to the bottom of the ramp.
also if your looking for some mellow wi3- (2 pitch) to play on, consider white fang, sue and i lead the main route and t.r. ed another nearby, but there was one route way left (shown in photo) and one way right, that is hidden by buttress. probably in the same range of difficulty, that may have never been climbed. i dont know anyone thats ever been out there, except chapman and rudy tried to find it years ago and got turned around in the woods. to get there park at the taft point trailhead, walk to taft, then west following the rim, to ice (1.1mi. to taft then west less than mile??? to ice) big trees to rap in to bottom, around 200'???.
you can lead or do everything on t.r. with big tree anchors. the ice can be seen by walking more west around to the top of the buttress that can be seen in the pic, to the west of ice
white fang can be seen from the pullout near the entrance to manure pile, and upper sentinal best from pullout before rixons
this would be a great weekend destination to do both climbs, and if a guy really wanted to get the heart pumping you could go down to the yabo tooth too !(hee hee)
some fun easier ice climbs &#40;white fang&#41;
some fun easier ice climbs (white fang)
Credit: mctwisted
whiteFang
whiteFang
Credit: mctwisted
great views of el cap from white fang
great views of el cap from white fang
Credit: mctwisted
the white fang
the white fang
Credit: mctwisted
also for you eastside guys looking for another 2 pitch route, sue and i (when we lived at tpr in the winter) did this cool wi3 back at cascade lake (at the base of north peak). go to north side of saddlebag, hike to cascade lake and you will see beautiful east facing blue ice, when we did it there was a great big ice cave half way up the route to belay in
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
your very welcome for the drug dome pics guys. i had (almost) as much fun as you did out there!
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 25, 2011 - 10:52am PT
Kurt that looks cool, nice score.
Hopefully twill stay cold after this brief warm up in order to do some more mystery ice pitches
Thanks Dave! The climb is a lot of fun. Here's another angle on it that shows the lower section of the climb a little better than the previous picture I posted earlier.

On the lower section we climbed the right drip just to the right of center of the photo. On the upper part we climbed the left side of that curtain. It looked like the right side would go as well. The issue would be getting to it.

While climbing it was obvious to us that nobody had been on this flow this year. We're still trying to find anybody who knows its climbing history. Maybe a past backcountry ranger or former TPR employee?
Ice formation near Stately Pleasure Dome.
Ice formation near Stately Pleasure Dome.
Credit: Wedberg

Kurt I looked at that Thursday I think... isn't it right where "Fuel Rod" is located?
Nice score!
Thanks Tom! If you looked at this in the morning on Thursday you may have seen us on the route. We were off of it by late morning though.

I think "Fuel Rod" is located much farther to the left from where this formation is. It's about a 1 minute drive east of Tenaya Lake.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 25, 2011 - 11:07am PT
The best thing going
The best thing going
Credit: Scott Thelen
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 25, 2011 - 11:20am PT
Nice shot Scott! That looks like a sweet line. Where is that one located (if you don't mind me asking :) )?
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 25, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
WI4 Upper Sentinel Falls
WI4 Upper Sentinel Falls
Credit: T2

E topping out
E topping out
Credit: T2


Yea Dan your beta was good and helpful.The only thing I would do different is not take the ramp approach. It was a casual 30 minute stroll to the top of the falls from the Sentinel Dome parking. From there we skirted around the rim to the east to the recommended ramp that took us to the base of the upper part of the falls. The ramp was a KNARLY bush whack. Once we committed and dropped in there was not going back. I think the ramp is were Yogi (the Bear that is not Werner) bivies for the winter. There was a ton of bear sh#t and a lot of nice caves to hide in. Anyway I think it would be better to just go to the top of the falls and rap into the climb. The top of the first and second pitches both have fixed rock belays. You would only have to leave an anchor on the top to get into the route. We did it Friday morning and it looked as though it had been climbed a few days prior to us. I sure wish the valley hosted colder temps for longer periods of time then the frozen water would be as world class as the rock.


Yea Scott show us some more!
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Dec 25, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
Scott, 2-1/2 hrs approach?
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 25, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
Yep,

great climb we started at olmstead
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 25, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
4th
4th
Credit: Scott Thelen
Top Out
Top Out
Credit: Scott Thelen
first four
first four
Credit: Scott Thelen
2nd
2nd
Credit: Scott Thelen

Not that hard WI3 with a fun WI2 top out.

A great fun day.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Dec 25, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
If it makes it till Thurs I'm there!

Just noticed you said Olmstead. Better than Tenaya?
Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 25, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
I think "Fuel Rod" is located much farther to the left from where this formation is. It's about a 1 minute drive east of Tenaya Lake.
Actually it's in the picture - red is Fuel Rod, and yellow is High Heels:
Credit: Greg Barnes
PeteC

climber
Dec 25, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
Cool Scott! Did our V-threads melt out yet? Did you take it all the way to the rim? Wasn't it an awesome vibe in Tenaya canyon right now? Way to motivate!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 25, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
It was a great vibe.

We toped it out but your V threads are still in place.

Cheers
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Dec 25, 2011 - 07:52pm PT

One from the way back machine.
mctwisted

Social climber
paradise
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
frosty lines above nevada falls
frosty lines above nevada falls
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
pic taken 12/25/11
pic taken 12/25/11
Credit: mctwisted
cool to see this stuff that you normally wouldnt see because it would blend in with the snow
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 25, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
Awesome!!!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 25, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
Oh my, I had not seen that bunnell ice before.

That looks great.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 26, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
A little dated but a good shot of the waterfall above the Wawona Tunnel viewpoint seen from the viewpoint. This is from 3 weekends ago.

Brian

climber
California
Dec 26, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Ice in the Meadows--both Kurt's line and Drug Dome--is good as of today. Though it did seem warm by the afternoon, the ice seemed fine--no real dripping or softness. Looked like there might be some other things through the trees West of Medlicott Dome, but I didn't have time to trudge over there to see if it was just a winter-style mirage or if it was real...

Brian
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 26, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
Those look so f----- cool, I wish I could come out there right now. Kids are at grandma's and no partners for the next couple of days.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Dec 27, 2011 - 12:42am PT
^^^
Mike, doing any "farming" this winter?
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Dec 27, 2011 - 09:40am PT
Actually it's in the picture - red is Fuel Rod, and yellow is High Heels:
Thanks for clarifying that Greg. I've never climbed "Fuel Rod" (obviously) but tom Carter must have been correct. I used this SuperTopo page to answer tom's question. The picture of "Fuel Rod" in the SuperTopo page makes it look like it's in a different area.

And nice job, Trevor and Kurt!! Matt and I looked at that, but didn't have time for a "close look..." maybe next week??? :)
Thanks Vic! I'd be psyched to see that line get another ascent this year. Trevor and I keep looking around for somebody else who's previously climbed it and so far we haven't found anybody. We're certain it hasn't been climbed this year but I'm curious to know if it forms the same way consistently each year or if it varies. Or, maybe on a "normal year" it's covered in snow? Get in touch if you want some beta and definitely let us know if you guys give it a go! According to Brian (a couple posts above) on the 26th: Ice in the Meadows--both Kurt's line and Drug Dome--is good as of today.

Though it did seem warm by the afternoon, the ice seemed fine--no real dripping or softness.
The good news is this climb gets morning sun but by noon-ish it's back in shade. Hopefully it'll stay there until the snow falls!
JamesG

Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Dec 27, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
What are these conditions doing to the higher altitude ice, like say Dana Coulior or Mt. Gilbert?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 27, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
Friend and I did Third Pillar on 24th of Dec. We saw Dana Couloir. There was no streaks of ice obvious, but on the way out we saw couple of guys who did it and said there was a bit ice in there. I saw some streaks of water ice on North face of Dana itself. Will post pics tonight...
tom Carter

Social climber
Dec 27, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
superbum

Ice climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 27, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
Yahooo! Thanks Kurt...Im gonna call you in a few minutes...

Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 12:38am PT
A friend reported a good climb on Drug Dome ice yesterday.

Cheers!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 28, 2011 - 12:55am PT
Dana 12/24/2011
Dana 12/24/2011
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Cheburashka is impressed
Cheburashka is impressed
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Please post regarding current conditions on Drug dome if someone climbs it. I am most likely going to attempt it on Friday if the thing is safe enough with this temperature rise...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 01:00am PT
a not great picture of Silver Strand from high on Reed's, 12/27/11

big piner

Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 01:17am PT
Hmmm...Silver Strand is looking interesting. Anyone care to share approach beta?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 28, 2011 - 09:47am PT
bushwack.
CF

climber
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:43am PT
Hiked up there last spring. Parked halfway up to tunnel view, gained the old road and then go up before the major stream that crosses the old road. The stream will take you west of the SS. Steep but not bad.
Brian

climber
California
Dec 28, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
Bad news folks. Things are warming up.

I went up this morning for a second lap on Kurt's new(?) line. Two days made a big difference. I was on it early, well before the sun came around, and it was streaming with water. I was without a partner today, so I soloed up to the big halfway ledge and then walked around left to drop a line and mini-traxion the crux curtain. (Note to self, mini-traxion on a single 8.2 cord feels sketchy, even though it's rated down to 8mm ropes.) I was off the route about the time the sun came around and hit it, and was bouldering over by the Knobs by 9:00am.

Anyhow, the crux curtain was running with water (behind it and on the surface). The climbing was straightforward and no harder, but it would be stubbies in wet, soft ice for pro. There are lots of folks stronger, braver, and more experienced than I, but I have been ice climbing a long time and I would definitely call it absolute no-fall territory in its current condition. I'd trust the stubbies in the thicker, upper section; but in the lower part of the curtain they might hold body weight.

Thanks Kurt for posting about this. I'm up on the Eastside a lot, but I'm no local so I feel super lucky to have gotten two laps on this route.

On another note, there is indeed another sheet of ice west of Medlicott Dome (on the south side of the road). It looks relatively low angle, and from across the valley I couldn't see how thick it is. There is also another column coming out of a chimney uphill from Kurt's line, but it looks pretty sun-baked and I didn't walk up to check it out. If we get another serious cold snap it might be worth a recon.

Not sure how these temps are impacting the Drug Dome route. There was a car parked there when I drove in this morning, so maybe that team will post up.

Brian


Ice west of Medlicott &#40;sorry for the image quality, taken with a c...
Ice west of Medlicott (sorry for the image quality, taken with a cell phone).
Credit: Brian

Ice uphill from Kurt's line &#40;sorry for image quality, taken with a...
Ice uphill from Kurt's line (sorry for image quality, taken with a cell phone).
Credit: Brian
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 28, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
Yesterday (more pics to come later):

Vernal Falls. The Mist Trail was quite dry.
Vernal Falls. The Mist Trail was quite dry.
Credit: BMcC

Off to the side on Nevada Falls.
Off to the side on Nevada Falls.
Credit: BMcC

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 28, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
Thanks Bill!
big piner

Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Brian -- good on ya' for firing up the Stately Pleasure route one more time. Superbum Vic and I checked it out this morning around 10 am and it sounded like a navigable waterway. As we discussed what to do, we watched ice exfoliating from the route. Ah, life on a warming planet.

Instead, we headed for a yellowish flow southeast of Lee Vining Canyon. From a distance it looked like a longish vertical route. If you've looked at it and thought about shwacking over to check it out, well, I'd recommend enjoying it from a distance. It's short, pretty low-angle, and getting wet by early afternoon. That said, it would make a great first-timer's lead or a nice venue to teach ice climbing. The shwack through willows and cliff bands means there will be short lines, as opposed to the routes in LVC right around the corner.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:22am PT
big piner, was this you?





The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:33am PT
As to Silver Strand approach, there is a band of talus which runs up the fall line towards the buttress btw Widow's Tears and the Strand, it's visible on Google Earth, pretty much from road to cliff. After you reach the toe of the buttress, you can follow the base of the wall up and right to the Silver Strand. The park spot is a long dirt shoulder on the north side of the grade up to the Wawona Tunnel.

Hardly any bush if you go the right way. This year it should be cake - when there's loads of snow the talus is hellish.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 29, 2011 - 01:39am PT
Wedburg, your line looked a little rough in today's morning sun. Did you see it today?



In other news, Drug Dome looked funky to me, but I'm a woose on ice.

But check it, someone in blue doing the raps on the right side...

must have been awesome!



PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Dec 29, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
Anyone know where to rent ice skates near Yosemite? Tioga looks cool. I've never skated on a lake before.
micronut

Trad climber
Dec 29, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
Me an Macronut are gonna go get frostbite on Snake Dike on New Years Day. Anybody know if we will be able to refill water from the river above Nevada and Vernal? Is it still trickling or is it frozen? I really dont want to carry water for the whole day from the car nor carry a stove. Any beta would be great.
Thanks.
Scott
micronut

Trad climber
Dec 29, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
Paul,
Call curry.....or rent them for the rink in Curry and ask if you can pay a late return fee.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 29, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
Micronut - was in Little Yosemite Valley Tuesday doing some recon on the waterfall ice west of Bunnell Point. It was balmy warm in the sun. It's been warmer since so maybe there is more open water on the Merced than noted below.

BTW - climbed Snake Dike on 10/9/11 in the afternoon sun and found the top of the descent down the cables to be pretty iced-up. Attentiveness recommended.


Open water?? There were patches of open water out away from the river bank...

Open water coming off Vernal Falls &#40;12/27/11&#41;.
Open water coming off Vernal Falls (12/27/11).
Credit: BMcC

-and this-

Nevada Falls from the adjacent overlook &#40;12/27/11&#41;.
Nevada Falls from the adjacent overlook (12/27/11).
Credit: BMcC

Other stretches like this:

An icy bit above Nevada Falls &#40;12/27/11&#41;
An icy bit above Nevada Falls (12/27/11)
Credit: BMcC

It has been warmer, so there's probably lots more open water now...


climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Dec 30, 2011 - 11:21am PT
RE: drug dome route, climbed it yesterday along with...yes 3 other parties. Route is still in pretty good shape but warmth is taking its toll.

Credit: climblight

Credit: climblight
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Dec 31, 2011 - 05:41pm PT
Drove past Drug Dome at 1:00 on the 31st, and my car thermometer said 48. Didn't see anyone on it, which is probably good.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Jan 3, 2012 - 01:28am PT
drove over 120 today...

Below Ellery Lake
Below Ellery Lake
Credit: em kn0t
2 guys had a TR set up on the ice just below Ellery Lake. Approach from 120 to top of this ice is about hmmm...45 seconds?

Drug Dome
Drug Dome
Credit: em kn0t
Drug Dome looked pretty wet and thin from the road (but it looks that way in photos upthread on the day people climbed it)

Ice above 120 near Pywiack
Ice above 120 near Pywiack
Credit: em kn0t
Photo from parking area for Pywiack. This ice also looked pretty wet and thin in spots

Roadside ice just east of Yosemite Creek
Roadside ice just east of Yosemite Creek
Credit: em kn0t
solo'd this pretty little icefall just east of Yosemite Creek, probably WI zero but some nice ice and fun to strap on the crampons and swing the old CFBPs.

T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 3, 2012 - 02:49am PT
Maybe not this year, but BMcC's Vernal photo gives hope for an FA one day. Like, the icicles on either side of the flowing water would only need to extend a little farther down, to provide a continuous path from bottom to top.
bpope

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jan 6, 2012 - 03:01am PT
Any chance that anyone's got more recent beta? Was thinking of exploring LIttle Yosemite this weekend...
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Jan 8, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
Just went ice climbing for my first time today at Lee Vining! I'm so hooked!

I have everything, but axes. If anyone is looking for a partner (experienced alpinist, trad/bigwall climber, but ice newbie) hit me up! I'm roadtripping until the 16th.

Gene

climber
Jan 12, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Curious... Does the Gunsight ever offer ice/mixed at an easy rating?

g
Specialblend

Sport climber
Thousand Oaks
Jan 17, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Can anyone report current conditions in the canyon? Looks like there might finally be weather moving in at the end of the week. How is access to Ellery Falls if Tioga road ends up closed? Thanks all!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 17, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
Access to Ellery Falls is the normal approach to Lee Vining Ice, though with minimal snow on the approach once these systems come in, the approach is a bit treacherous.

It should be noted that Ellery Falls gets real ugly once the snow buries that lower angle ice.
Specialblend

climber
Thousand Oaks
Jan 17, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Thank you for the beta Cragman. Is Roadside in June Lake still out?
Wedberg

Mountain climber
Bishop
Jan 17, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
Climbed Drug Dome last Wednesday and it was still good. It's getting thinner but I think it'll hang in there for another couple weeks. Our line next to "Fuel Rod" is officially done.

Lee Vining Cyn is good but limited climbs have coverage.

Drug Dome Ice on January 11, 2012
Drug Dome Ice on January 11, 2012
Credit: Wedberg
Climbing the first pitch on Drug Dome, January 11, 2012.  The ice is g...
Climbing the first pitch on Drug Dome, January 11, 2012. The ice is getting slightly thinner but there's still plenty there.
Credit: Wedberg
What's left of the ice formation next to "Fuel Rod" January 11, 2012.
What's left of the ice formation next to "Fuel Rod" January 11, 2012.
Credit: Wedberg
Chouinard Falls January 8, 2012
Chouinard Falls January 8, 2012
Credit: Wedberg
Main Wall in Lee Vining Cyn on January 8, 2012.
Main Wall in Lee Vining Cyn on January 8, 2012.
Credit: Wedberg
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 17, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Does the Gunsight ever offer ice/mixed at an easy rating?
Pretty sure the only flowing water in there is when it rains.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 18, 2012 - 06:29am PT
Roadside has some top-ropable ice.
Specialblend

climber
Thousand Oaks
Jan 18, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
Roadside has some top-ropable ice.

Glad to hear it. Is Horseshoe Falls in at all? Trying to figure out the best options for my trip next week. Appreciate the information!
jedster

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 30, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
Since the pass has closed, and the buzz over high country ice has quieted, it seems fitting to give a final shout out to those unique and appreciated conditions. What an ice season we had through December and the first half of January. Don't get me wrong, I'm psyched to have snow to ski on and smooth the approach to LVC (where, incidentally, ice contiinues to grow... the Main Wall should be good to lead any day now...), but we sure made the most of those dry conditions. I told a skiing and climbing buddy, "we're probably not getting any snow because we're having too much fun on the ice. We should be sulking more".

What does the Valley ice look like lately? Anything at all?

Check out this video from the Cloud's Rest ice. Pardon the "salesy" intro... it really is just a story. We climbed the day the pass closed. The ranger let us out, and closed the gate behind us. I bet the warm storm renewed some of the water flow, replacing the ice where we "climbed" rock. Someone get adventurous and get in there again.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 31, 2012 - 01:31am PT
Wi3+ C2 M2? : ) very nice video. tool idea is hilarious.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2012 - 09:48am PT
The key to the route for us was climbing it when it was fat.

next time hike from the point

good job
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Feb 2, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Here's from my first time ice climbing, Jan 9, 2012. I don't recall the name of this fall. It is one of the first ones when hiking up LV Canyon. My buddy Ted had rolled his ankle the day before and didn't feel up to leading it. So we scrambled up to the rapp slings, rapped to the 3 bolt anchor, and set a full pitch top rope.

It was crazy that we rock climbed in the Gorge without shirts, skied Mammoth another day, then went ice climbing another day....all within an hour's travel of each other.

Credit: PAUL SOUZA

And a video of me on my second day. I'm hooked! However, too bad I live on the west side of the Sierras. :(

David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 4, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Widow's tears on 1/3/13. Apparently an attempt happening as this iphoto was taken

Credit: David Wilson

Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jan 4, 2013 - 10:58am PT
Jason Torlono and a partner pulled off that ascent.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:12am PT
WOW! Would be super exciting to hear their story!


I looked at this report bellow at least 3 times!
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Looks like WI 4+
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:56am PT
There are 2 ratings for The Widow's Tears - climbable and unclimbable. Looks pretty good for this time of year.

Better scramble if you're aspiring

David, a little further down river, just up from the Pohono bridge, you can get the critical lower section in your photo from the river's edge. In case you didn't know
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Badass.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Jan 4, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Congrats to Jason and his partner.

First climbed by Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral in 1975. Seems rare that it's in condition. Yesterday's might be the 12th ascent.



WBraun

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Greg Loniewsk & Jason Torlono.

Jason told me running water was squirting out while tooling their axes in various places on the upper pitches ......
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jan 4, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
Greg Loniewski and Jason Torlano

Stupid americans can't spell

way to get at it guys!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
how cold was it in the valley that day?
WBraun

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
It was cold enough to make ice .... :-) look at the link below for the real deal.

http://cdec.water.ca.gov/jspplot/jspPlotServlet.jsp?sensor_no=8288&end=01%2F04%2F2013+16%3A05&geom=medium&interval=10&cookies=cdec01
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Nice graph. If it were only ten degrees colder...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
jesus man those temps are very marginal but I guess thats just how it goes there huh?

Thin ice over granite slabs can start delaminating pretty darn fast and valley temps are often colder than those aloft.

I mean I understand you guys are desperate and all but..........


ever thought of a plane ticket to calgary?
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
Man, that ice in Tuolumne looks AWESOME - way to get after it guys!!

I think the ice in Yosemite is always wet.

Leversee, EC Joe and I did Upper Sentinel Falls back in the '80's and got absolutely drenched.

Then, after an ice climbing trip to Canada where it was wicked cold and everything was dinner plated, Tom Davies and I went up and did Silver Strand and it was like plastic - compared to what we had been climbing on up in Canada.

Actually, we climbed at Reeds the day before in t-shirts, and Werner, you may not remember this, but you were like, yer' going to die, when you heard we were going to go up to the Strand the next day. Of course we got to the base and there was a big hole with water clearly gushing. I remember saying, I'll just climb up a ways and check it out - ha, ha - anyway, we had water coming out of pick holes, but got to the top only to find a huge horizontal crack about 10' below the top. The route fell down three days later...

I had always wanted to do that route after spending several months in Patagonia with Walt - and hearing him rave about his epic on it. Never got to do Widows Tear though....

Paul
WBraun

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
Bruce

Yes those temps are marginal.

These two guys Jason and Greg are locals who live and work here.

Greg is a contractor who works all the time but he's done lots of El Cap routes, Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and free climbs hard trad all while working full time.

These guys were off the couch to speak on this and just went for it.

Blah blah blah

Gagner

Yeah I remember that. The strand has more of a history of water coming out of the pick holes.

It's a scary fuker because of that along with the cauliflower ice up there.

Mayfield free soloed and he had that problem with water gushing out.

Scary ass sh!t!

I was with Shipley once and the whole ice pillar broke with me on it and Walt and Stretch were belaying me with no anchor sliding towards the edge from the weight. (not on Widows Tears)

LOL good stuff ... :-)

And Bruce

Some of us are too poor to fly all over the place to play .....


Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
yeah I get it. besides.... who wouldn't risk their life to do a multipitch waterfall in yosemite valley?
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
This is one drainage to the left of Widow's tears yesterday. Seems like some of these smears are about to connect. Any ascents over in this area?

Thanks Kevin, I was wondering where the best vantage was.

Credit: David Wilson

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
[quote]It was cold enough to make ice .... :-) look at the link below for the real deal.

http://cdec.water.ca.gov/jspplot/jspPlotServlet.jsp?sensor_no=8288&end=01%2F04%2F2013+16%3A05&geom=medium&interval=10&cookies=cdec01[/quote]

They climbed it on the 1st? After it was 20F as the night time low? WOW that sounds crazy with all the honesty. Even if it was cooler higher up, it is still pretty warm for ice after just one day of real cold. Well it is awesome they did!
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
Werner - if i remember correctly from a phone conversation almost decades ago with Peter, his solo of the Silver Strand was even more exciting than just water gushing out. I think he said he broke a pick when he was way, way up there and had to hang off one tool while replacing the broken pick on his other tool.
WBraun

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
BMcC, most likely although I can't remember all the details.

But you remember, so that sounds like a nightmare, yikes !!!!

Maybe Peter will post and tell us again .....

mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
here's a shot of the tears 6 days ago. looks like the curtain fell off the day before this shot was taken. good job to the guys climbing this in less than ideal conditions
yeh i remember doing the strand with peter and his crampon loosened up leading the second pitch, he somehow finished the pitch though
Credit: mctwisted
ill go up and take some more pics tomorrow!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Is there an anchor at the top to top rope widow's tears??
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
just ask werner to borrow the 4000 footer from sar. big tree on top for tr :)
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
I flew out to Salt Lake once for some "sweet" ice climbing. Of course you buy the cheap ticket a couple of weeks in advance and don't know what conditions you are going to get. Well, a warm front came in and when we arrived is was kind of warm misty all over. Not rain, but you'd get wet after an hour in the stuff. Anyway, we had flown in to climb so we went climbing. On our way in two locals were coming down saying "its too warm". But we went up anyway. Actually, I was like "maybe not today", but my (shall remain nameless) partner insisted. A pitch up Stairway to Heaven I feel the whole curtain settle a couple of inches (should have been a clue). I'm freaked. "leave a f*#king screw and lets get out of here." But no, younger voices pushed me on and up. About 15 minutes later the whole f*#king curtain to our right came down. Maybe 100' wide by 100' high sheet of ice just peeled away from the bare rock. All this less then 100' from us. Finally we got real and bailed. And I made a vow, never to climb on warm ice again. Sh#t does happen.....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Chappy and I hiked in and toproped the Tears (top pitch) one time after our ascent. There are big firs just back from the rim 50 ft or so as I remember.

Some great potential photo positions on the east side rim, as it drops steadily and hooks out to a point where you're looking straight across at the upper third.

It's not too far from the Dewey Point XC ski trail.

David, your photo of the mixed lines to the east of the Tears fires up memories of considering attempting to climb those. There are about three prominent lines which may someday get done with the right combination of conditions. The upper ice climbing looks like it could be spectacular.

With global warming, I don't know if it'll ever happen - the existing temps are so marginal - but maybe some day....
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
taken on 1-4-13

Credit: Tork




here is the same spot Dan

Credit: Tork
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
I was joking about top roping Widow's Tears by the way :) That would be sort of hilarious though..

PS: looks not bad today! Where's that SAR rope located?!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
The Strand looks good to go.

And the middle section of The Tears is climbed to the right of the recent missing section where the curtain remained. If that section hung in there while the side of it dropped, it must be stuck on there pretty good.

Right?

And if you're past the traverse underneath that section early in the day, you're good...

Right?

: )

"What's the worst that could happen?" - Ron Kauk


That route is basically never going to be 100% bomber - it looks pretty solid in that photo - if the temps hold, or lower.

The Valley's funny, temp wise, the inversion layer can mean higher temps on the rim than the floor at times, but that changes. It seems the clear day or two right after a cold snowstorm is about the best bet.

Maybe...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
What's the rating on it anyways? Must not be any harder than wi4-5 with some runout sections maybe? It's the objective danger and conditions that is the crux, or there is some hard climbing there too?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:13am PT
I don't believe there was a rating system for ice when we climbed it.

By this system:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing

I'd say WI3 or WI4

But that system doesn't seem to consider conditions, and the poor protection and fall potential bad conditions can create.


Like I said earlier, it's either climbable or unclimbable.


Get up there and rate it for us!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:15am PT
It was F*#KING ICY THERE YESTERDAY!
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:26am PT
I gotta admit, even after all these years, I still get excited whenever it gets climbed. Its such a rare and beautiful climb. Kevin and I were so lucky to get the FA...and survive the experience! Kevin pegged it: rarely will you ever find it in ideal conditions. Probably the closest was in 78 when Dale and Ron did the second ascent and Ed Barry and I did the third. It was so good. Unbelievable really. A complete change from what Kevin and I experienced. I just had to do it again. It was a cold snowy winter that year. Several feet of snow in the Valley floor. The approach was horrendous. I remember once flailing in snow up to my armpits crossing snow covered talus. The drainage from the heavy snow helped it fill in really nicely. Kevin and I did it in mid Feb. of 1975 and the ascents in 1978 were also done in mid Feb. Seems rather late in the year for ice climbing. Goog job Greg and Jason!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Hi Mark!

I second your feelings about it, and also a hearty congrats to the brave team who just topped out.
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Jan 5, 2013 - 01:08am PT
Happy New Year Kevin! Hope you are well. Our ascent was perhaps my (our?)most memorable climbing experience.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 5, 2013 - 01:47am PT
Warbler, I was just asking about the ratings to see if it is even worth it for me to bug anyone to walk over to the base and look at it with me. I am fairly new to ice, but like it and obtained more confidence after my last trip. Not Yosemite, but a beautiful spot. I think I took some ok photos there too, check it out if you like TRs: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/01/hyalite-my-post-christmas-break.html
Will post here after I load more pics to the site, it is annoyingly slow....
Anyway, it is such a good feeling to feel like something that seemed WAY THE HELL ABOVE me, as MAYBE possible. Right time, right partner, good luck, and maybe one day....would love to do that climb on the Watchtower too. Did many of you do that one too? Seems cool.

Congrats on FA Chappy!
E

Social climber
Tujunga CA.
Jan 5, 2013 - 01:56am PT
that climb is out of there...you gotta be on it at the right moment

prolly gonna happen again this season

hummmmm....
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Jan 5, 2013 - 02:06am PT
real deal bump. thanks for the real (deal) history too.
WTF

climber
Jan 5, 2013 - 10:17am PT
A chossicle has formed.

Big balls on those two men.

chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
"I remember once flailing in snow up to my armpits crossing snow covered talus"
Had to really want it to go through that eh chillywip? That's history right there!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
looks to be building nicely, heres a few pics from today (1/5/13), thought i might even see someone on it
but not today
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
the curtain that fell out around a week ago is filling in
the curtain that fell out around a week ago is filling in
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
That looks pretty doable right now Dan. Great pics ! Unfortunately, I was always scared shitless on ice, so I'm a non contender.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
looks soooo gooood
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
sure does look good
heres another little morsel, just left of pulpit rock, looks like fair kicks
cant remember hearing of anyone ever doing it, never really noticed it before???
perhaps this will be a good ice year!
Credit: mctwisted
WBraun

climber
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
That thing is death right now.

The cloud cover is on tonight .

It's getting warm from the next front rolling in right now..

Everything is melting.

You're gonna die .....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
we're all gonna die, Werner...
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
That thing by pulpit cuts and you'd have a fast ride into the Merced.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:54am PT
If it survives the storm, it'll be even better right afterward.

I think it's your turn, Werner

Sharpen those points and kiss yer ass goodbye
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Werner doesn't give a fk about no runout!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106626733

bearbnz

Trad climber
East Side, California
Jan 6, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Here is some ice on the eastern edge of the park off the Dana Plateau. Has it been climbed? Does it have a route name? It is just climber's left of Cocaine Chute, which is on the right edge of the photo. I didn't really get close enough to get a realistic idea of the quality or attractiveness... The photo is from 2012.


Not in the Park, but very close...
Not in the Park, but very close...
Credit: bearbnz

Nothing to do with ice, but here is an aerial photo of the 3rd Pillar on Dana.

Credit: bearbnz
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
That's a cool photo of Third Pillar!


Where is the pull out that people use to access widow's tears? Would be nice to go look at it some time up close.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
You can park pretty much right below it in a pullout on the river side, if it's plowed or dry.

Probably want to stay out of the open talus and under the forest canopy on the way up. Be prepared to wallow.

If you really want to see it well, you'll need crampons and an axe to third class up the slabs into the bowl, maybe a rope to rap back down with.

The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world, and nearly never seen by anyone.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world

How can I get there? Is there directions online or something?

PS: sorry if it seems like a dumb question. I have not been climbing for too long and the Valley still has MANY areas I need to visit. Been only to a few..
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
there are some possible lines to the south of the Dana couloir. anybody ever done those?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
The pullout is 1/2 mile below the Inspiration Point end of The Wawona Tunnel. When you look up to your right at the Valley view parking lot at the tunnel exit you'll see The Silver Strand dropping off the rim. East of that about 1000 ft, you'll see a recess in the wall btw 2 buttresses - The Widow's Tears Amphitheater, or as it's known on some maps, The Stanford Point Gully. You can't see the ice climb from there.

You can look up to see the falls inside the Amphitheater from only a few places, as it is a deep narrow corridor. One is on the riverbank just up from The Pohono Bridge by Fern Spring.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
The view from inside the Tears Amphitheater is out of this world, and nearly never seen by anyone.

Shiver me timbers ...


I'd love to hit that spot, even if it did entail some wallowing & sketchy rapping...

It was cold in the Cruz last night. I wonder if we're gonna get another cold snap.
sneville

climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Vitaliy,
A good approach is to use the beta in the Reed guide for the approach to climb WindFall (The climb looks awesome). I believe there is beta on mountain project. The approach in the summer was not that bad (about an 1hr). If you get the approach right you should cross the old 41 road at the bottom. If you make it to windfall you can scramble around to the left(exposed 4th class) into theater. This place is great just to walk in the theater. Have fun.

Sean
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
Thank you Sean and Warbler!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
I would suspect that traverse could be pretty sketchy in snow. I'm sure it's doable, but you'll want a rope at least, probably an ice axe.

Frontpointing up the slabs into the bowl is pretty cool - I think a great photo could be had there with the climb looming above.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 8, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
If someone local can take a few pictures of the falls on Wednesday or Thursday it would be awesome. Seems like a warming trend going on, wonder if it survives.
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
Jan 8, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Vittles, a friend who works at the Ahwahnee might check for us today!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Vitaliy, even though its been warm the ice is still hanging in. these shots are from tues. late afternnon 1/8/13.
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
CF

climber
Jan 8, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Stole these from Jasons FB page.
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
Credit: CF
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 8, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
Judging by the light on the summit trees, and the runouts, looks like they scampered up the thing right quick.

Conditions look pretty good, too.

Nice work guys!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 8, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Thank you Mctwisted! You are the man! What do you do in Yosemite? Great place to live huh?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 9, 2013 - 12:46am PT
"Thank you Mctwisted! You are the man! What do you do in Yosemite?"

The better question would be: What don't you do?
SpeedyTaco

Ice climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
Jan 9, 2013 - 03:33am PT
Better pics than mine. Still looked good this afternoon (Tuesday).

Lotta lines appear to be in all over the place. Supposedly a lotta rockfall above Huff/Curry Village today... coulda been ice, everyone here assumes it's rock. Anywho.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
18 degrees in el portal, vitaliy it looks like you'll be able to see some good ice if you come up.
hey if anyone goes up there (on the tears) let me know so i can go take a couple pics
thanks
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
After Jason did the tears he went over to Quarter Domes with Eric Rasmusan and one other guy past half dome and skied down from Quarter Dome to Tenya Canyon.

Credit: Jason Torlano

Credit: Jason Torlano

New Ice Climb on Quarter Dome? Anyone up for it?

Credit: Jason Torlano
WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
Credit: Jason Torlano

Credit: Jason Torlano

Greg leading
Greg leading
Credit: Jason Torlano

Lower left center are you can make out Jason and Greg
Lower left center are you can make out Jason and Greg
Credit: Rasmussen

Credit: Jason Torlano

The whole bottom 300 feet is now gone as of today ......

Quater Dome first ski descent a couple of weeks later
Quater Dome first ski descent a couple of weeks later
Credit: Jason Torlano
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
them lads is goin' after it
these shots 1/11/2013 around noon
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
werner, looks like the first pitch fell off a day or two ago?

WBraun

climber
Jan 11, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Yeah it did, Dan

Jason was here about 2 hours ago and told me it fell off.

We think it was that night before this last cold storm when it got really warm.

3 nights ago maybe?

It's a full on blizzard here right now .....
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Jan 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Greg and Jason,
Awesome! Can't wait to talk to you guys about it.
Chappy
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 11, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
what a f*#king bitch, had to fall off the day before we attempt the thing. It should be doable real soon though, doable 70% now and probably totally doable for someone with much more skills and stupidity. I bet by Sunday it would be good...oh well

Beautiful place that cirque. Upper pitches look fantastic and very solid.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 11, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Quater Dome first ski descent
I don't think your line off the top of Mammoth sees much action either.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
looks like a fast party did the tears and topped out around 1pm
Credit: mctwisted
heres a few shots of the rest of the route
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
here's a few from closer up, but i coudnt get the lower section from here
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
heres a few of the silverstrand, starting to look good
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
parting shot of icicles on Bridalveil
Credit: mctwisted
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 13, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
The Upper Tears doesn't get much better than that, guys. As for the first pitch, there is some rock protection if you bring pins, and it isn't that steep. There are some 2 ft wide ramps that diagonal across it that make it easier than it looks from below. From the bowl atop pitch 1 it looks pretty fricken solid.

Not often you see the Widows Tears in better condition than The Strand, but there it is.

Thanks for the photos, Dan
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 13, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
WEASIE, you are killin me!! Damn I miss that place.. Say hi to Bemidji Midget for me ;)
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
you got it walter. here's another pic from today
climber on last pitch of tears 1/13/2013
climber on last pitch of tears 1/13/2013
Credit: mctwisted
WBraun

climber
Jan 13, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Minus -22 degrees F in Tuolumne Meadows this morning.

I bet the ice up there would be very good?

http://cdec.water.ca.gov/jspplot/jspPlotServlet.jsp?sensor_no=1643&end=01%2F13%2F2013+16%3A51&geom=medium&interval=10&cookies=cdec01
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Jan 13, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Rick Harlan and Kim Dao are who did the Tears yesterday. Said it was great with the cold temps, and it should hang in there as long as the temps stay cold.

Way to go guys - I'm jealous!!

P.
gilly

climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
Jan 14, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Stu and Bri, great work!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 02:41am PT
so bitchin' this is getting done... hoping, fantasizing that I might get a shot... one of these dwindling days!!

10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 14, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Suppose to be warmer the next few days
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 14, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Nice one Kim --- Tick!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
silver strand got climbed today, and its getting fatter
climbers on the strand headwall
climbers on the strand headwall
Credit: mctwisted
heard the start of widows tears is now good enough to take 4"screws. didnt see anyone on it today
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Credit: Chicken Skinner

Maybe some day. Not me though.

Ken
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
here's an old shot of Mayfield i found recently in my old slides. this is from bitd
peter mayfield on silverstrand p.3
peter mayfield on silverstrand p.3
Credit: mctwisted
these routes are really awesome! should be good for at least a couple more days
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
yeh Ken, i remember seeing that climbable before, just barely. fell off the next day though. it will get climbed someday. all kinds of stuff forming right now all over the place
dave

climber
Earth
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Wednesday gonna be too warm? Just talked to Torlano he said 50 in the valley? Dan you up for it?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Credit: Chicken Skinner
Another route of the future?

Ken
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
yeh i was lookin' at that today. its just right of the romulan and vortex, steep!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
pulpit area is trying to form up again
Credit: mctwisted
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
dave, give greg a call, he needs a partner asap
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
one more from bitd on the strand, shows the route pretty good. it was nice and fat, but pretty wet
dan on the first pitch of silverstrand
dan on the first pitch of silverstrand
Credit: mayfield
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:05am PT
I did a quick tour of the Valley today, checking out the effects of these super cold temps. Lots of ice everywhere, and it looked like the 1st pitch of Widow's had reformed some.

A big frazil ice flow plugged up the main channel of the Merced between Happy Isles and Clarks bridge.

Credit: YosemiteSteve

Bridalveil Fall is in it's crazy ice-monster phase.

Credit: YosemiteSteve

There were chunks of ice falling from the top of El Cap, and the Merced River at the west end of the meadow was frozen all the way across.

Credit: YosemiteSteve
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Nice photos Steve and Dan. The river was starting to freeze up at Table Rock today.
Credit: Chicken Skinner

Ken
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:31am PT
chilly wind today.

nice photo Ken. Cold as a snowman's rear out there.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Hi Dan and All-

Thanks for all the updates and information helping us do one of these great climbs!

Cheers, Brian
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
There's a party of three on Windows Tears today. They were a little less than halfway up at around noon. I shot a timelapse of the leader on what I guess was the 3rd or 4th pitch. Here's a photo of my viewfinder:

Credit: YosemiteSteve
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 15, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
I'm freezing down here in La Jolla, but it warms my heart to see the Tears getting some action.

We did it mid February - at this rate we could see more ascents this season than since the FA!

And the point and shoot cameras nowadays mean lots of good quality photos
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Sure seems like a high traffic area these days.
Woot!
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Park rangers are doing it right now ......
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 15, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
My, how times have changed - eh Werner?!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
Credit: mctwisted
way to go after guys
Gene

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Tears in real time. Who woulda thunk?

g
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
I went back down to Pohono Bridge at 4 o'clock, and the party of 3 on Widows (Rangers, apparently) were just starting what I assume is the last pitch:

Credit: YosemiteSteve

Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
maybe the rangers scored that nice 70m cord that was at the base on 1/13/13
Wildincognito

climber
Eastside
Jan 16, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
Definitely not rangers. That was Kevin Daniels, Kurt Wedberg, and I. We left the cord but kept a couple of screws we found- missed the draws somehow. Got back to Bishop at around 3 am this morning- 24 hrs after we woke up in the Valley (long drive for us this time of year). Lots of pics between us and would love to see that time lapse when it's ready Steve. Great route! Be safe, chose well, maybe bring a wetsuit.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jan 21, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
Another ascent of the Tears:

http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2013/01/widows-tears_21.html

 Luke
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 21, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
I've met Doug. Nice guy. Some of his smash and grab trips, i.e. weekend trips from NM to Alaska, are crazy. glad he was able to get it done.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 21, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
exellent work!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:29am PT
So how is the climb doing? Did it fall of partially due to the high temps or is it surviving?
SpeedyTaco

Ice climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
Jan 25, 2013 - 02:32am PT
Loads of stuff fell off today. Rain and higher temps. Noisy everywhere you go.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 25, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Bump for updates. Some photos from today would be great!
The Guy

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Jan 25, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
1/20/13
1/20/13
Credit: The Guy

Not as recent as requested but it looked really good Sunday.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Vitaliy, silverstrand wasnt looking to good on my way back from work, i only looked at the top half of route, the left 1/3 had fallen off, and i was surprised that it was there at all considering how warm it has been last few days
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 26, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Thank you guys. haha I heard it was real warm and raining at 8000ft yesterday! Forecast shows good cooling ahead, but by than there might not be any of it left I guess. At least now I have a partner! Can't believe I couldn't get anyone to go with me last Wednesday. I mean damn, it's Widows Tears! Say hell with work and go..especially when there were others climbing the route and conditions were obviously better than usual. :/
mackenzie74

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
Would be very interesting to see how Widows Tears and Silver strand look after the recent warming trend. Watching it all fall off would be quite a scene.
mackenzie74

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
By the way has anyone soloed the Tears?
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
looking pretty rough this morning
Credit: mctwisted
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 27, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Hi Dan-

Awesome photo! Thanks for the updates. So cool.

Cheers, Brian
Messages 1 - 270 of total 270 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews