yosemite ice?

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 270 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Nice graph. If it were only ten degrees colder...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
jesus man those temps are very marginal but I guess thats just how it goes there huh?

Thin ice over granite slabs can start delaminating pretty darn fast and valley temps are often colder than those aloft.

I mean I understand you guys are desperate and all but..........


ever thought of a plane ticket to calgary?
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
Man, that ice in Tuolumne looks AWESOME - way to get after it guys!!

I think the ice in Yosemite is always wet.

Leversee, EC Joe and I did Upper Sentinel Falls back in the '80's and got absolutely drenched.

Then, after an ice climbing trip to Canada where it was wicked cold and everything was dinner plated, Tom Davies and I went up and did Silver Strand and it was like plastic - compared to what we had been climbing on up in Canada.

Actually, we climbed at Reeds the day before in t-shirts, and Werner, you may not remember this, but you were like, yer' going to die, when you heard we were going to go up to the Strand the next day. Of course we got to the base and there was a big hole with water clearly gushing. I remember saying, I'll just climb up a ways and check it out - ha, ha - anyway, we had water coming out of pick holes, but got to the top only to find a huge horizontal crack about 10' below the top. The route fell down three days later...

I had always wanted to do that route after spending several months in Patagonia with Walt - and hearing him rave about his epic on it. Never got to do Widows Tear though....

Paul
WBraun

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
Bruce

Yes those temps are marginal.

These two guys Jason and Greg are locals who live and work here.

Greg is a contractor who works all the time but he's done lots of El Cap routes, Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and free climbs hard trad all while working full time.

These guys were off the couch to speak on this and just went for it.

Blah blah blah

Gagner

Yeah I remember that. The strand has more of a history of water coming out of the pick holes.

It's a scary fuker because of that along with the cauliflower ice up there.

Mayfield free soloed and he had that problem with water gushing out.

Scary ass sh!t!

I was with Shipley once and the whole ice pillar broke with me on it and Walt and Stretch were belaying me with no anchor sliding towards the edge from the weight. (not on Widows Tears)

LOL good stuff ... :-)

And Bruce

Some of us are too poor to fly all over the place to play .....


Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
yeah I get it. besides.... who wouldn't risk their life to do a multipitch waterfall in yosemite valley?
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
This is one drainage to the left of Widow's tears yesterday. Seems like some of these smears are about to connect. Any ascents over in this area?

Thanks Kevin, I was wondering where the best vantage was.

Credit: David Wilson

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
[quote]It was cold enough to make ice .... :-) look at the link below for the real deal.

http://cdec.water.ca.gov/jspplot/jspPlotServlet.jsp?sensor_no=8288&end=01%2F04%2F2013+16%3A05&geom=medium&interval=10&cookies=cdec01[/quote]

They climbed it on the 1st? After it was 20F as the night time low? WOW that sounds crazy with all the honesty. Even if it was cooler higher up, it is still pretty warm for ice after just one day of real cold. Well it is awesome they did!
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
Werner - if i remember correctly from a phone conversation almost decades ago with Peter, his solo of the Silver Strand was even more exciting than just water gushing out. I think he said he broke a pick when he was way, way up there and had to hang off one tool while replacing the broken pick on his other tool.
WBraun

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
BMcC, most likely although I can't remember all the details.

But you remember, so that sounds like a nightmare, yikes !!!!

Maybe Peter will post and tell us again .....

mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
here's a shot of the tears 6 days ago. looks like the curtain fell off the day before this shot was taken. good job to the guys climbing this in less than ideal conditions
yeh i remember doing the strand with peter and his crampon loosened up leading the second pitch, he somehow finished the pitch though
Credit: mctwisted
ill go up and take some more pics tomorrow!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Is there an anchor at the top to top rope widow's tears??
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
just ask werner to borrow the 4000 footer from sar. big tree on top for tr :)
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
I flew out to Salt Lake once for some "sweet" ice climbing. Of course you buy the cheap ticket a couple of weeks in advance and don't know what conditions you are going to get. Well, a warm front came in and when we arrived is was kind of warm misty all over. Not rain, but you'd get wet after an hour in the stuff. Anyway, we had flown in to climb so we went climbing. On our way in two locals were coming down saying "its too warm". But we went up anyway. Actually, I was like "maybe not today", but my (shall remain nameless) partner insisted. A pitch up Stairway to Heaven I feel the whole curtain settle a couple of inches (should have been a clue). I'm freaked. "leave a f*#king screw and lets get out of here." But no, younger voices pushed me on and up. About 15 minutes later the whole f*#king curtain to our right came down. Maybe 100' wide by 100' high sheet of ice just peeled away from the bare rock. All this less then 100' from us. Finally we got real and bailed. And I made a vow, never to climb on warm ice again. Sh#t does happen.....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Chappy and I hiked in and toproped the Tears (top pitch) one time after our ascent. There are big firs just back from the rim 50 ft or so as I remember.

Some great potential photo positions on the east side rim, as it drops steadily and hooks out to a point where you're looking straight across at the upper third.

It's not too far from the Dewey Point XC ski trail.

David, your photo of the mixed lines to the east of the Tears fires up memories of considering attempting to climb those. There are about three prominent lines which may someday get done with the right combination of conditions. The upper ice climbing looks like it could be spectacular.

With global warming, I don't know if it'll ever happen - the existing temps are so marginal - but maybe some day....
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
taken on 1-4-13

Credit: Tork




here is the same spot Dan

Credit: Tork
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
I was joking about top roping Widow's Tears by the way :) That would be sort of hilarious though..

PS: looks not bad today! Where's that SAR rope located?!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
The Strand looks good to go.

And the middle section of The Tears is climbed to the right of the recent missing section where the curtain remained. If that section hung in there while the side of it dropped, it must be stuck on there pretty good.

Right?

And if you're past the traverse underneath that section early in the day, you're good...

Right?

: )

"What's the worst that could happen?" - Ron Kauk


That route is basically never going to be 100% bomber - it looks pretty solid in that photo - if the temps hold, or lower.

The Valley's funny, temp wise, the inversion layer can mean higher temps on the rim than the floor at times, but that changes. It seems the clear day or two right after a cold snowstorm is about the best bet.

Maybe...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
What's the rating on it anyways? Must not be any harder than wi4-5 with some runout sections maybe? It's the objective danger and conditions that is the crux, or there is some hard climbing there too?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:13am PT
I don't believe there was a rating system for ice when we climbed it.

By this system:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing

I'd say WI3 or WI4

But that system doesn't seem to consider conditions, and the poor protection and fall potential bad conditions can create.


Like I said earlier, it's either climbable or unclimbable.


Get up there and rate it for us!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:15am PT
It was F*#KING ICY THERE YESTERDAY!
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