Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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What's the rating on it anyways? Must not be any harder than wi4-5 with some runout sections maybe? It's the objective danger and conditions that is the crux, or there is some hard climbing there too?
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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I don't believe there was a rating system for ice when we climbed it.
By this system:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_climbing
I'd say WI3 or WI4
But that system doesn't seem to consider conditions, and the poor protection and fall potential bad conditions can create.
Like I said earlier, it's either climbable or unclimbable.
Get up there and rate it for us!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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It was F*#KING ICY THERE YESTERDAY!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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I gotta admit, even after all these years, I still get excited whenever it gets climbed. Its such a rare and beautiful climb. Kevin and I were so lucky to get the FA...and survive the experience! Kevin pegged it: rarely will you ever find it in ideal conditions. Probably the closest was in 78 when Dale and Ron did the second ascent and Ed Barry and I did the third. It was so good. Unbelievable really. A complete change from what Kevin and I experienced. I just had to do it again. It was a cold snowy winter that year. Several feet of snow in the Valley floor. The approach was horrendous. I remember once flailing in snow up to my armpits crossing snow covered talus. The drainage from the heavy snow helped it fill in really nicely. Kevin and I did it in mid Feb. of 1975 and the ascents in 1978 were also done in mid Feb. Seems rather late in the year for ice climbing. Goog job Greg and Jason!
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Hi Mark!
I second your feelings about it, and also a hearty congrats to the brave team who just topped out.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Happy New Year Kevin! Hope you are well. Our ascent was perhaps my (our?)most memorable climbing experience.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Warbler, I was just asking about the ratings to see if it is even worth it for me to bug anyone to walk over to the base and look at it with me. I am fairly new to ice, but like it and obtained more confidence after my last trip. Not Yosemite, but a beautiful spot. I think I took some ok photos there too, check it out if you like TRs: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/01/hyalite-my-post-christmas-break.html
Will post here after I load more pics to the site, it is annoyingly slow....
Anyway, it is such a good feeling to feel like something that seemed WAY THE HELL ABOVE me, as MAYBE possible. Right time, right partner, good luck, and maybe one day....would love to do that climb on the Watchtower too. Did many of you do that one too? Seems cool.
Congrats on FA Chappy!
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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that climb is out of there...you gotta be on it at the right moment
prolly gonna happen again this season
hummmmm....
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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real deal bump. thanks for the real (deal) history too.
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WTF
climber
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A chossicle has formed.
Big balls on those two men.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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"I remember once flailing in snow up to my armpits crossing snow covered talus"
Had to really want it to go through that eh chillywip? That's history right there!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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looks to be building nicely, heres a few pics from today (1/5/13), thought i might even see someone on it
but not today
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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That looks pretty doable right now Dan. Great pics ! Unfortunately, I was always scared shitless on ice, so I'm a non contender.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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looks soooo gooood
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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sure does look good
heres another little morsel, just left of pulpit rock, looks like fair kicks
cant remember hearing of anyone ever doing it, never really noticed it before???
perhaps this will be a good ice year!
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WBraun
climber
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That thing is death right now.
The cloud cover is on tonight .
It's getting warm from the next front rolling in right now..
Everything is melting.
You're gonna die .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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we're all gonna die, Werner...
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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That thing by pulpit cuts and you'd have a fast ride into the Merced.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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If it survives the storm, it'll be even better right afterward.
I think it's your turn, Werner
Sharpen those points and kiss yer ass goodbye
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