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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Big congratulations.
Someone upthread asked what this ascent was called: redpoint, or what?
I think it's called leading.
No ifs, buts, anything-points, caveats.
Stevie approves:
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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To better the style of your own FA (especially on an OW) when under the microscope of criticism is the ulitimate in class...
My hope is that some US climbers would adopt this proud tactic over here, as well
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I think it's called leading.
Yeah, I got that part. But in the modern hip lingo it's not called "flash" or "onsight", so there's some other mod term to describe it.
Of course you knew that I knew that you knew what I meant......
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Johnny K.
climber
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Amazing leads and quite proper.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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so there's some other mod term to describe it.
Hmmmm. You got me there. I don't think there is.....
On their previous "lead" they were still at their peak of fitness, gleaned from their two years of training. More recently, they have been losing the sharp edge of fitness and strength. The rigors of pulling my, um, burly carcass through the squeeze of Block Top, a week ago, surely helped return them to their strength-endurance peak.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Jaybro I was referring to all the drama around Excalibur after Todd and Paul got done with it, still a proud climb and goal.
Didn't Shipoopi OS all the wide pitches?
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Holy sweet motherfµck!!! That is a PROUD fµcking route!!
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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So sick!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You guys went wide (in a big way) so you don't have to go home. Please stay and help "elevate" us.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Add this one to The Road to Twilight Zone!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Goat, Todd & Paul never climbed Excalibur. That I know of, anyway (they woulda td me, of all people). Just the Salathe epic. & Shipoopi kicked ass!
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Not Todd & Paul, who was it then?
I remember the fallout just not all the players, not that it really matters...
Maybe Shipoopi could start a Excalibur thread.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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I think there already is one, Goatboy.
Anyway, as I recall, Bill Price led the 1st of the 5.12 OW pitches on that,
then Shipoopi led the next two. He did a long section of lieback on the 3rd
but managed to dyno into a kneelock and OW jamming scenario to to finish
the pitch. The three pitches go 5.12b,c,and d.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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That's a lotta big cams to start that puppy with...proud. Will be interesting to see if it gets an onsight now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I think you have some details scrambled, Scuff. There are published photos of Steve laybacking the first wide pitch on lead, (in Ninjas). He showed them in his slide show.
He told me he thought the second one was harder than the first, whereas Dave Altman, myself and I think Werner, all thought the second was easier. The third one, higher up, is the one he said was .12d, and he talked about how it took 40 minutes to lead. don't recall him saying he laybacked, but he might have. He said he called it,12d, because no one would believe him if he said .13.
Paging Shipoopi.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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just quickly reviewed his original article.
Seems that Steve got all three pitches (8th, 9th & 13th) on his 1st try,
that Bill had attempted the 9th but used some aid prior to Steve's
successful lead, and that on the 13th pitch he did lieback as the crack
widened past fist size but swung into OW mode after 10 feet or so, and that
the 13th is the hardest.
I may have misread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1042559&msg=1043322#msg1043322
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