Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2009 - 10:44pm PT
|
Another great article that defined climbing in the 90's.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
|
Yeah Baby!
Man those cracks lay'd in wait for eons.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
|
daaaaang-
least you coulda done is photo-shop out the hand-jammies, that's no way for the hard guys to be remembered...
=)
|
|
Jack Burns
climber
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
|
That last photo. That is why I climb.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 12:07am PT
|
Check it out, Ninjas! Always cracked me up, Least I wore hightop s (and didn't make it free)
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 12:39am PT
|
Excalibur is a superb route - Tom and I really enjoyed it.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 12:42am PT
|
Amen!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:25am PT
|
That's a wild route and a bad ass send.
We climbers have such a focus on the assumed goals of this game that we fail to appreciate efforts like this, which tackle extremes that many top climbers would shirk. 5.13 offwidth!
As geology would have it, some aid remains, but that was proud
Peace
Karl
|
|
BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:31am PT
|
It seems like SS can be good at about anything. I remember that. Pretty amazing.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 10:37am PT
|
Amazing ! and then Amazing !
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
|
Rad is as rad does.
|
|
troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
|
Well written, exciting, entertaining, good pics. What more could a climber want on a snowy day.
Thanks for posting this.
Tim S
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
|
I belayed Bridwell when he originally started this line.
17 rurps in a row on that thin pitch to the base of that off width crack.
Bailed from the wall because all the drill holders he had where incorrectly heat treated and were too soft. The drill bit sank into the holder which prevented the drift to be inserted to remove the drill bit.
Two dill holders both suffered this on the short bolt ladder at the end of that A4 pitch to the off width. Bridwells last placement on that pitch was 2 stacked tipped rurps only millimeters into the crack. I cleaned them by hand.
Me and Altman originally tried to free that 12b pitch.
Altman did it on top rope after my failed lead attempt, I believe.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
|
pretty cool. Amazing looking route.
|
|
snakefoot
climber
cali
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
|
jeff perrin, myself and eppi had a blast on Cosmos while those guys were pullin down...I was leading when those blocks came hissin by and can still remember the sound. Ex Calibur will always have a mystique about it...
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
|
I heard a rumor that Pamela Pack is firing up to go after the Excalibur offwidths. If anybody can repeat those wide sends, it's her.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
|
So nice to see a picture of Jeff, too.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2009 - 01:39am PT
|
Melissa's absolutely right.
God, bless Jeff.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2009 - 01:51am PT
|
I wish I could see a topo of this at the moment. I talked with Altman about it once. He did that second wide pitch (the .12b?) on Tr and later I onsighted it on lead. The first one (the one before) was the one that is problematic to lead while placing pro...
Tom, she could send 'em in her sleep, why bother?........
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2009 - 02:06am PT
|
Tom, she could send 'em in her sleep, why bother?........
One answer: The Wall
Even a puny crack-jugger, like me, can appreciate being on The Wall. If Pam can free some hard OW (that may not have ever seen second free ascents) while up on The Wall, at least she can imbibe in the "the big trees look like brocolli", etc.) aspect of the Big Wall.
I don't know if The Wall is her thing. But for me, The Big Wall is so juicy, I can't even imagine doing any other type of climbing.
And besides, maybe she needs her rest. She can sleep her way up Excalibur.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!