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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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I don't have much to say on the Crap Crags/Europa topic, because I haven't been up there yet.
I did quite enjoy Dave's mini tr and Andy's photos on the subject, and Tami's tall tale about Jeff. One of these days i'll get up there.
Would love to hear a tale from the fa?
I offer you this closeup of a local fixed pin. And a couple questions.
What kind of piton is it?
Where is it currently fixed?
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jun 14, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
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Kobus was a beast in the mountains, I met him on an ACC trip he led to Chamois peak in the Anderson river.
An attractive young lass had joined the weekend outing, i suspect her interests were more aligned to bagging a fit young red head, local Squamish climber than to any actual peak bagging.
Unfortunately she lacked any climbing experience. The next day my partner Bob Roche and I raced up the climb and spent an enjoyable 4 hours sitting in the meadows watching Kobus haul her up 8 pitches like a sack of potatoes.
He was one tough mountain man . No he didn't have red hair!
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jun 14, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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A Lost Arrow pin, maybe a stubby. At one time they were Robin Barley's favourite alternative to bolts beside shallow cracks. On Diamond Dogs above Snake ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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Edit
Rolf- thanks for the pin info. The location geuss is pretty darn close! Somewhere in that vicinity.
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jun 15, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
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Lost Arrow for sure.
Might even be one of mine - Daryl Hatten used to bum gear from me all the time & then leave it fixed all over Squamish. Check for red white & blue paint.
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Jun 15, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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What kind of piton is it?
Where is it currently fixed?
L.A. at the top of Diedre...?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Stewart- Not yours, probably Jim Sinclairs???
Tami- Thanks! You were right, it is somewhere wet!
Maurop! Yes! And welcome?
You are correct! You win a pano fron the last pitch of Diedre.
A lot of people miss this pin at the end of the runout groove at the top of Diedre..
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maurop
Gym climber
B-dot
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Jun 16, 2015 - 07:21am PT
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Sweet, I'm loving the pano. The pin doesn't inspire much confidence, but the move itself protects easily.
And very cool online community here, lot's of names I recognize from the guidebooks and magazines, and some very awesome stories about squamish. Looking forward to more!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 16, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Great pics! TFPU!
That river looks like fun...where have all the kayakers gone :)
What's with that pipe sticking out of the water? At least it's pointing downstream.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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Jim- you deleted your piece? Too bad, i quite enjoyed it before i passed out last night. I often wish i was around in the days of yore.
Maurop- i bet you still clip it before getting a peice in!
Rincon- it's probably a stick. That section is class 5+ - 6 So it doesn't get run much...
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Jun 17, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
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Fixed pins made you remember the old adage " the leader shall not fall"
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 17, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
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BM asked for "a tale of the FA" of Europa/Crap Crags. Sorry, no tale, but if a pic is worth 1,000 words, here is a 5,000 word TR.
The first few pitches of E/CC. What you see is what you get.
Day 1, Pitch 8. The infamous "Twisting Tunnel Pitch".
Day 2, Pitch 18. The notorious "Thorny Question Pitch".
Day 3, Pitch 28. The terrifying "Pitch of the Nesting Songbirds" Or was that Pitch 29?
Day 4. Success is ours!!! Descending the backside trail. I look as if I have aged 40 or more years, but that is a temporary result of the extreme difficulty and stress experienced on the climb.
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LOL!!
:) :) :)
HM.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 18, 2015 - 06:08am PT
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Thanks for the photos Hamish. That's almost exactly how I remember Crap Crags! My only quibble is that I think the photo you've labeled Pitch 18 may actually be Pitch 19. (And the Songbird Pitch is 29.) Of course, it would have been great if you'd posted pictures of some the pitches above p29, but since they aren't as pleasant as what one has climbed up to that point, I suppose it's no big loss.
I would love to post some pictures of Europa, so that you can see how the route has changed, but my camera (and much of food and water for the last two days) was lost in one of the many loose-rock incidents.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:05am PT
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Now THAT is a Squamish story. And photos.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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You guys getting smoked out?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 18, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
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another old pin
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Thanks Hamie!
Nice photos! They seem a little tropical tho....
And weren't you this James Dean lookin' type at the time?? ;)
Nice pic Andy! Looks like you got out today? Is that another LA?
I see the Apron and what i'm assuming is knee wrecker chimney? Is that Uwall you're on??
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Excellent locating, Mike. Not Kneewrecker though and not on U Wall.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 08:10am PT
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Hmm... Ok. Well i'm pretty sure that's not the pillar in the background... Is the apron futher away than i think? Hmm.. Stumped without my guide handy...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 19, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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Knee-wrecker is behind the feature which looks like it, which is a small corner system on a route I once went partway up with Rolf.
Here is another look at where the pin is, and to show that there is still dirt and vegetation on Squamish routes. Neither this route or the one I did with Rolf are in the Select guide.
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