Squamish Photos and Stories

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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
Aka The Mamquam Blind Channel Tami?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 15, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
Mike, is that photo from the top of the Bulletheads/South South Gully?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
Glenn- No sir! That would be Memorial Ledge.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Mar 15, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
Great photos everyone! Love to see the old and new material getting the psyche up for the season. Now to serious matters - Oaks:

There are indeed Garry oaks in Squamish, and they are native, if not common here. The easiest ones to find are likely in the Smoke Bluffs. There are a few around Penny Lane. The most prominent one being the tree 15 feet up that you likely slung before entering the depths of Satan's Slit, just right of Penny Lane itself. Theres one on the ledge right of the top of Kangaroo Corner, and I believe another one below the left end of Neat and Cool. The largest one I've seen around the bluffs is out near the end of the little promontory that sticks out into the blind channel near The Zip.

The easiest time to find them is early winter when all the other deciduous trees have dropped their leaves, but the Garry Oaks cling stubbornly to their full canopies of shrivelled brown leaves, often until springtime.

K

Now back to your regularly scheduled climbing. Heres one from Friday the 13th (!) of a visiting friend from Reno:
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 15, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
Scrubber, thanks muchly for the data on the oaks. Confirms my ancient memories.
Glenn
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 16, 2015 - 09:32am PT
Jim, nice pic of that OW

Looks like it is one of the cracks on this wall, yes?

I don't think it has been climbed to the top yet. The east face route is well to thje left - this is more the NE face, or the east face of the Ibex- Springbok-LesCornes col

Why did you guys bail? Wetness? I can see the overlap seeping in your pic
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 16, 2015 - 09:41am PT
Speaking of Garry Oak,

http://www.mqup.ca/ancient-pathways--ancestral-knowledge-products-9780773543805.php

I recently got given Nancy Turner's two-volume ethnobotanical magnum opus and read it cover to cover (to cover to cover) in about a week. Great book. Very interesting. (I also love that the guy on the cover is rocking a mac jacket as he gathers)

There is incontrovertible evidence that the local First Nations practiced both cultivation and transplantation of usable plant species, such as bringing hazelnuts from their southern range around the Lower Mainland, to the Kitimat - Terrace corridor, where they now have a geographically isolated second range.

The Garry Oaks on Sumas Mountain and across the river from Yale are documented to have been part of this pre-contact transplantation program.

I wouldn't be surprised if the oaks around the Chief are the legacy of a similar transplantation program by the Squamish Nation. Squamish seems like it's a ways beyond the usual Garry Oak range of southern Van Isle and the Gulf Islands.

Some, or much, of the growth of trees in subalpine areas like Hollyburn Meadows is also due to our suppression of forest fires, rather than to changing climates. These areas were burned regularly pre-contact as part of a management program to maximize berry productivity.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Mar 16, 2015 - 09:53am PT
to make it easy:


Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 16, 2015 - 10:19am PT
Yeah. Looks more like a squeeze than an OW though!

Note to self: lug tubes and #6 next time going up there?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 16, 2015 - 10:47am PT
I recently got given Nancy Turner's two-volume ethnobotanical magnum opus and read it cover to cover (to cover to cover) in about a week. Great book. Very interesting. (I also love that the guy on the cover is rocking a mac jacket as he gathers)

Yes, this is her magnum opus. I'm just about finished the first volume. It's very interesting and sums up so much material. I agree that the Garry oaks at Squamish might well be transplanted. It doesn't seem that they are doing as well as the ones on Sumas Mountain.

There are also a few in Pacific Spirit Park (Vancouver) but those might be escapes from old gardens.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
Damn! You guys needed gardening tools up there?? Sure does look clean!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 16, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
Gardening tools? Maybe plant some oak trees in those wide cracks.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
Yes Glenn.. We know your generation had no need for clean cracks.. :)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 16, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
Fixed proaks from little acorns grow?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
Grow your own pro! Lol
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 16, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
Grow your own pro! Lol

Hillarious!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 16, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
Nice photo.

In the bottom photo, looks like the Devil's Tongue just right of centre, with the Devil's Toothpick between the Tongue and the deep notch.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Mar 16, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
Wandering through a bookstore today, I happened upon a mint copy of Gordie Smaill's 1975 Chief Guide, this thing is classic history! Lots of funny stuff in here, plus some classic info on great aid lines of the past.
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Mar 17, 2015 - 12:08am PT
Picked up some other BC mountaineering anthology stuff, snagged a few other goodies there over the years. I really dig the coastal climbing history, especially from the 70s. I've always been interested in the early wall climbing scene around Squamish with the likes of Hatten, Burton, Weinstein, Piro, Sutton, Culbert etc. Hard to find info about some of the aid climbs from that era. I;m sure there are still some places on the wall that few have ever been. Picking up this guide was just part of the puzzle.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 17, 2015 - 05:48am PT
I love this thread. You guys give me hours worth of google earthing to do!
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