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Messages 6521 - 6540 of total 7995 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 24, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
Throwback Thursday continues.... MH2 in search of some alpine granite. Sadly most of our planned route was just as bushy as this approach!

Schwacking
Schwacking
Credit: Oplopanax

As I recall it the bush was so wet we seriously considered using a $5 bill as firestarter to get dried off. Fortunately one of us had a bunch of junk receipts, Canadian Tire money, shopping lists etc. in the wallet (yeah, carrying a full wallet to go alpine climbing) that we used instead.
MH2

climber
Apr 24, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
Ah, the good old days. Several trips were needed before even getting to the rock. I was having a hard time locating the photos until I remembered to search for Hard Target.





edit

looks like the same colour ensemble as on the guidebook covers

hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 25, 2014 - 01:09am PT
MH2

Is that look "steely eyes" or "glazed eyes"?

Some nice clean slabs behind. So where is it? Coquihalla somewhere?
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 25, 2014 - 01:13am PT
Glenn

Your "boots" thread is intriguing. Is that a climbing trip? geology? book research? How long, where etc? Questions, questions....... No doubt classified info.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 25, 2014 - 02:06am PT
Naw, nothing classified. Some geological colleagues and I have some $$ for a 2-year project in the Bute Inlet/Waddington area. We've been mainly working on the water for the past 10 years, so it'll be good to get back into the mountains. Maybe we will climb a few things along the way (it's happened before).

(My colleague was one of the climbers on the first all-female ascent of Annapurna, back whenever). We've been working together since 1986.
MH2

climber
Apr 25, 2014 - 10:21am PT
hamie,

I am the person in the photo above that one. The eyes belong to Oplopanax, perhaps looking into a future of bushwacking to less travelled BC summits. That bump in the picture is near Needle Peak. I think it was the second pitch where the decomposing granite turned me back. The gear was not secure and the possibility of raining destruction down on the belayer seemed high.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 25, 2014 - 12:48pm PT
Bruce,

The east side of Needle has some solid rock but also some prime dirt.



There's great rock on Ibex. Don't know why there aren't more routes.



Well, actually I do know why there aren't more routes. We went back to try something pretty close to this route and got shut down by a wet offwidth. Probably dries out later in the season though.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 25, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
Actually this is the other side of Ibex.

Alpaca and Vicuna also have great rock.

Bleached old fixed rope on Vicuna east face
Bleached old fixed rope on Vicuna east face
Credit: Oplopanax

Somebody out there has to know the story on this one. Been searching for info on attempt on this face with a decade now with no responses.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 26, 2014 - 01:16am PT
Arlene Blum is an amazing person. Her autobiography "Breaking Trail", which covers her life up to 1993, is well named, and is definitely worth a read. Great mountaineer, outstanding scientist, she led the way in the 70s and 80s. High Fives!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 26, 2014 - 01:34am PT
Awesome stuff guys!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 26, 2014 - 02:28am PT
Arlene Blum: I've never met her, but hope to, some day. My friend was on that Annapurna expedition. She was climbing strongly to about 7500 metres, but she froze her feet and that put her out of contention for one of the summit teams. I'm glad she wasn't on the second summit team....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
Amazing stuff gentlemen. I quite enjoyed Andy and Dru's throwback pics.

Ibex looks rad! Thanks for those photos Bruce and Dru!
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Apr 26, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
oh MY lordy, those there are some purdyy peeks. ya hear.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 26, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
Wow Bruce. You have been holding out :-)
MH2

climber
Apr 26, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
Yes. That place looks way better than Waddington.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 26, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
Glenn, yes she was lucky indeed. 7,500m is pretty high, and lots higher than anything on my cv.

Getting $$$ to visit the Wadd area is definitely a good gig. You will recall that Arnie Shives, Bruce McKnight and I were once paid to spend a few weeks [and make a few FAs] on the Franklin Glacier. Have fun!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 26, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
Hamish, that was a good gig that you, Arnold, and Bruce had! 1964.
Glenn
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 26, 2014 - 10:06pm PT
Getting $$$ to visit the Wadd area is definitely a good gig. You will recall that Arnie Shives, Bruce McKnight and I were once paid to spend a few weeks [and make a few FAs] on the Franklin Glacier. Have fun!

I don't know if the Squamish thread is the place to mention it, but I once got paid to spend a few weeks on Baffin Island. It was Hell! We were _required_ to ski certain routes. Required! Still, we did have time to sneak in a fairly cool climb...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 26, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
I remember the Anderson River peaks being compared to the Bugs 30 years ago :-)

Guffaw.


Whuts the access like these days ? I got my 1975 Vega a long way up those roads back then....
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 26, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
There's probably orange Vega paint on many roadside boulders, Tami.

Hatten and I tried a line on the amorphous wall of Le Cornes/ Ibex and had some fun involving a 5.8 offwidth on a slab to grassy traversing, interspersed with face climbing reminiscent of Middle Cathedral Rock...

Nothing ever came of a great trip with Peder, Craig and Daryl, other than them, all getting comfortable at the other side of the log across the river, and enjoying the show, while I tried my best not to fall in with a pack on !

I have a picture somewhere of Daryl's sunburned face matching his red down jacket while napping. Pretty funny, because of his sensitivity afterwards about lobsters as a point of conversation...


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