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Messages 6441 - 6460 of total 7991 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 15, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
cry me a river

I'm sorry, you will need a permit for that discharge!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 15, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
Lol


What else did you guys climb, I mean drink this weekend in Squamish? Ghost? Bruce?
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 16, 2014 - 12:00am PT
Bruce did nothing but rant about the freak show in Nevada all weekend...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 16, 2014 - 12:45am PT
What else did you guys climb, I mean drink this weekend in Squamish? Ghost? Bruce?

Bruce, so we're told, didn't climb, but rather ranted about something in Nevada. I don't know anything about that, but I can confirm that while we actually did climb, it was what we didn't climb that was much more interesting.

You have to understand that we're not sport climbers. I've probably climbed three sport routes in my life (unless you count gym routes, in which case it's three thousand). Mari started out sport climbing, but once she discovered cracks, she promised god that if he never told anyone she was a sport climber, she'd never clip bolts again.

But last year, on a down day, she decided we should check out Area 44. It's pretty, but like I said, I don't get sport climbing, and she did one pitch and said "This place sucks dead rats." Okay, fine. There's plenty of other climbs in the Squamish area, so not going back to Area 44 is no big deal.

I think the anthrax bacteria she was working with in the lab last week must have infected her brain, because on Sunday morning she said "Let's go to Area 44. Maybe a few easy clip-ups will be a good way to get back into it." Which is weird because just a couple of weeks early she'd been running it out on real climbs down at Cochise.

So we amble over the hill and down to the base of the climbs, and, Oh! Yeah! The view is awesome! The topos that are posted every five meters lead us to a 5.8 that is occupied by two guides and three clients, and much yelling of "Just put your left foot up on that hold by your knee! No, the other foot! No, that other hold! Yeah! You can do it! Now, right hand up!"

So we backtrack a few meters, check another one of the topos, and Mari decides that the 5.9 in front of our noses will do just fine. The topo says the first bolt is high. It doesn't look really high, but we figure that at Area 44, 2.5 meters probably counts as high, and off she goes.

And stalls out between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Go this way. Back down. Go that way. Back down. Try straight up again. Back down. At which point one of the guides from the show beside us walks over and says "Dunno if it matters, but that thing your on is 11c." Mari looks down and says "Oh." Then, "Are you sure? I thought this was a 5.9." "No, the 5.9 is that one."

"That one" is two bolt lines to our right. Probably about three meters.

So, she lowers from a bail biner and we move the required three meters and, yes, that first bolt is a ways up. But no worries, there's an easy chimney just to the left that looks like an easy alternative to get to where she can clip that bolt. Or it would be if only she was a lot taller. She wants to do some ridiculous intermediate move, but I am looking at the non-existent belay anchors, and the steep slope down which we'll both cartwheel, and tell her that a badly bolted sport rig on shitty rock isn't worth dying for.

So we pack up and leave, and on our way to some real climbing we wonder what the guides told the noobs about the two old people who couldn't seem to climb anything.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 16, 2014 - 01:12am PT
Good stuff Ghost, classic sandbagging.

I don't know wtf u boys are on about though. Area 44 has probably the best, fastest drying routes in Squamish. The best view & greatest rock quality. Everyone should go there every time they go climbing, well either there or on top of the new gondola.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 16, 2014 - 01:24am PT
It's true, the view really doesn't suck.

If only the climbing matched the view.
If only the climbing matched the view.
Credit: Ghost

Sadly, the climbing does suck. But I agree,
Everyone should go there every time they go climbing,
.

That way, you and your partner would be the only climbers at whatever crag you decided to climb at. Just like Mari and I were the only climbers on the Papoose on Monday.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 16, 2014 - 01:37am PT
A-Ha!


I knew you were holding out.


I don't think it matters how many ppl you tell. The papoose will never be as popular as it deserves. A lot of good work done there over the past year too.

tooth

Trad climber
B.C.
Apr 16, 2014 - 02:49am PT
Big Mike I think we saw you guys at Pink Cliff on Saturday. My wife and I climbed a few routes there - we were the couple with the 3 month old baby.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 16, 2014 - 02:59am PT
And the beat goes on in BC...

... http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/jumbo-glacier-resort-exempted-from-environmental-process-1.2611471
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 16, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
one of these days I'm gonna dig out my pic of Don hiking up McGuire clad only in a pair of stained y-fronts.
MH2

climber
Apr 16, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
Very fine photos and stories. Great to see what Mike and Toby did. The recent blue skies and warmth were much appreciated.


Nominating Bruce Kay for storyteller of distinction. Nice support from Jim Brennan.


Ghost says that he and Mari were at area 44 so I guess they were. Not easy to find an 11c there. Maybe the trick is to look for a 5.9? Sounds similar to what happened to Tom and me at The Pillary.


This is the revised topo. Things were much more confusing at the time. For example, the leftmost line was shown as complete, with several bolts, but had only 1 bolt. Other lines were misdrawn.

(Frolich)





The plan to get everyone climbing there looked well on the way to success.





Nice for a picnic, though.

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 16, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^Nice. Alpha I assume. ^^^^^

one of these days I'm gonna dig out my pic of Don hiking up McGuire clad only in a pair of stained y-fronts.

Do you really hate us that much? That what has been seen cannot be unseen.

I like my stomach contents IN my stomach. Not splashed onto my keyboard.

Thhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhanks.
thesiger

climber
Apr 16, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Mike, are you sure that buttface ascent wasn't some kind of dream or paranormal event? That two-headed Toby dude is sort of transparent in the summit pic and those purple Mythos are from last century.

Anyway, leaving that aside, when are your crew heading down for my windows?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 16, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
This thread reminded me it's nearly Interior Limestone season!



More choss than you can shake a stick at!

I heard a great story from Robert about the first ascent of "None but the brave"... RyanD you should go jump on that one! Still waiting for a second ascent!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 16, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
Lookit all them summits there, just ready to fall right over if u fart too loudly!

Sounds interesting Oplopanax, maybe if u told a little of the story u were told it would sound more enticing??

Since its pissing out here ill type a few words on my experience or lack thereof with interior limestone.


I used to drive thru marble canyon all the time on the way to moms when I lived in Whistler. This was also around the time I started rockclimbing so naturally I thought the place was some sort of Mecca that was only absent of climbers due to geographic location. After a few summers & a trip to potrero this fledgling thought it was time to take a closer look at Marble canyon. I figured I'd scope it out & come back with a friend to develop Potrero north. Even in my state of extreme n00bdom(still a n00b) it only took one foray up to the base of the wall to realize I was nowheres near ready for the types of adventure that the rock there looked guaranteed to provide. After that it took awhile to understand why everyone thought limestone was so cool & that Potrero was choss.

That said I'm always blown away by the creativity of the landscape there, the contrast of the walls with the beautiful blues of the lake would probably be quite stunning from a higher vantage point.


Great photo too!


Andy, good stuff on the pillary. I liked the zoomed photo of the roman chimneys a lil ways back too.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 16, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
I presume the large pinnacle is Chimney Rock, but what are the smaller ones to the right called?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 16, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
Glenn, this is "The Castle" area over at the far right, i.e. north of the Icy BC waterfall and a three hour slog up mobile scree approach. Iain Stewart-Patterson did some 5-pitch route in this area, I think on the cliff behind the pinnacle. I don't think the pinnacles in this area even have names, let alone routes... the big one's about two pitches high and the rest are less than a ropelength. Lyle or Garry might be able to tell us more.

RyanD, some stories can't be shared without permission - the Natives said that certain families or clans owned a story and they were the only ones who could tell it. And I'm not about to appropriate from Clan Nugent.

But in a highly edited form, ;), he was climbing with a gal he'd never met before, she subtly challenged his manliness, they got up on this giant chimney sickle feature that had been previously bailed on a few times, it turned into the worst choss imaginable, and they had to keep battling upwards because none of the gear, including belays, would hold body weight, so there was no way to rappel....
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 16, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
Thanks, Oplo, so Chimney Rock is out of sight in this photo?
Sanskara

climber
Apr 16, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
Wow,

You guys are very fortunate to live where you do.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 16, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
Here's the Chimney, aka Coyote's Penis, in all its glory Glenn. It's about 2 km northwest of the other photo.



The redder or oranger the limestone is the more rotten it is.... only route on the Penis is up the back side.
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