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Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 8, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
Greg,

Obviously, it was work not recreation, right?

PB
gf

climber
Dec 8, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
All i know is that i got an extra lashing of vitamin D, which at this time of year is a bit of a rarity in our part of the world.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Nice one gf!


Hi Chief. Maybe if you guys are up late ill stop by after work. Was fun last year, cheers.

Had fun climbing in Squamish today with Kieran, Cormier, Relic & lurker Kyle!



Credit: RyanD



Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Dec 9, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Bloody cold, no doubt, RyanD!
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Dec 10, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
you have entered..







Credit: brownie







the twilight zone.......
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Glenn, look forward to seeing you!

Ice eh? hmm.. looks interesting...

Awhile ago, Ryan made reference to an afternoon spent at Neat and Cool, with Mr Tifo and Dcp. It was a glorious overcast day, late fall. Crisp but not too cold, we were still climbing in t-ahirts.

Ryan getting hydrated before his ascent of flying circus at my request.



Neat and Cool and the Chief


Electra and Lily loving it.


Ryan cruising the Circus while Tifo belays





There was another party on Fear of Flying and we managed to share the real estate quite cordially. It felt hard for me, but I still remembered every move and managed to crank through it.

After that Dave joined us and we ended up somewhere near Where Ancients Fear To Tread. I was looking for Gross Incompetence but i didn't have a guide, and apparently Ryan never climbs with a guide these days..(lol)


Ryan starts up Ancients








Unknown climber projecting Kangaroo Crack


Upward pano


Ryan spent awhile at the crux, but solved it clean. He also finished up the 11a Crux of Toasted Tits.


Dave belaying Tifo


Dave on WAFTT


Dave didn't finish the climb and Ryan and Tifo both had to peace out, so that left me to take it down. The crux for me was getting out of the horizontal with my hands and onto my feet. Ryan took the draw off the bolt, so I took a couple big penji's trying the move.

After the third one, I decided I needed a different approach, and climbed Geritol to get above the horizontal, and then foot traversed it all the way across. Back no worse for wear.

It was fun. I'm hoping things don't warm up too quick in the morning!

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 11, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Mmm climbing juice. Hope the recovery is going well mike. Sounds like you are climbing so not too bad ehh.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Thanks! No, not too bad.. All in all. Happy to be upright and active! ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 11, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Yep, regarding being paralyzed you could say Big Mike is a has been :-)



Cool shots Mike! That was probably the hardest 5.9 I've done lol! Super fun day, it was rad to see u crush the flying circus. My how time flies eh?



Re: the ice climbers



There goes the neighborhood!!!



Here they were just yesterday, back when they were boulderers.



Credit: RyanD



Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 11, 2013 - 01:53am PT
and Ryan and Tifo both had to peace out

HAHAHAHAAHAH .


Glad I have kids so I can translate "peace out" to "leave".



GUFFAW.


GREAT PIX ABOVE.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 11, 2013 - 01:24pm PT


jeez drop those heels, man!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
I got up at 6:30am this morning. I really didn't want to, but it was supposed to get warm this morning, and we needed work on dropping our heels.. ;)

After meeting Luke and Kieran at Luke's, we wandered over to the bluffs to look for smears.

Luke getting pysched for climbing?



Ahh.. Ice climbing!


Kieran lacing em up.


Getting his kick on.


Ice topropers


More in a bit...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Is that Sunice puffy some thrift score find? It looks like something Barry Blanchard woulda worn in 1982
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
I dunno. Either that, or a hand me down from someone. It's definitely out of the 80's!!

Yesterday was pretty fun. I'm pretty bagged today. Especially my shoulders and back..

Kieran gets his reach on.



Does this thing have a name Dru?



Me with the kit on.

Luke Cormier photo

A ferncicle in the corner


Kyle came out and showed us all up. He charged up the smear.


Then he wanted to go try a new rock climb at Krack Rock while Luke climbed, so we headed over there.


Eventually the boys finished up and wandered over to us. They checked out the ice left of Krack Rock but there was quite a bit of water under it which deterred them.

I pointed out the nice formation on the left side of Cabin Boys, so Kieran soloed up there.


After hangdogging my way up the thuggy new 10c corner that Kyle put up, (Endurance just isn`t there yet, and my fingers were freezing.)

We went to go see what the boys were up to. Luke was stoked, after his lap. The start was really thin, so some mandatory dry tooling was involved to get established. "I fell off like four times trying to get on." Luke said.

Kieran got his go next.






My turn was next, and it felt really good this time. Getting established was tricky, but i managed to get on after a couple bails. By the top i felt awesome on my front points and was stepping up easily after one kick..

Luke had to run after my lap and Kyle was more interested in rock so he hit up a couple more pitches on the left side of cabin boys.

Kyle on the Lumpy Why 10b



Gotta love climbing rock and ice on the same day!
MH2

climber
Dec 12, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
And love Squamish Photos and Stories.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 12, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Nice to see you well armed and grinning Mike! I think that is called Alice - a great little strip of ice.

Squamish ice season is just ending now, raining lightly from 1200 M down. If you're still psyched you're pretty close to Entropy up at Soo Bluffs. Its in and is excellent quality, 2 to 3 pitches of sustained Grade 3.

A word of caution with the soloing.... ice climbing is pretty easy technically and can seem - and to an extent is - pretty secure.... but you better be sure and precise. Also, low angle stuff can be worst than the steeps for security.

I know a guy who was a couple hundred feet up the slabs left of shannon falls ... soloing of course. He decided to show a buddy how to place a screw. He bent down, and focusing on the screw failed to notice his knees touch the ice.... subtly levering out his front points. Instantly he turned into the human hockey puck on the inclined skating rink. lucky for him he went air bourne at high speed off the little ski jump at the bottom and was ( as Don Serl likes to say) fielded by the cedars.

Only a busted leg - thats all!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Yup - Alice on Ice, cause "Alice" is the summer rock route.
I see the latest hot rigs around Squamish were this Emmett and Finlayson M10 behind Brandywine Falls and Cordy soloed something thin and steep at the Longhouse, maybe just for pics though rather than to a top out?

M10 for your first time with ice tools, that's gotta be interesting.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
This also reminds me that a good way to evaluate someone's thin-ice technique is to check the size of the pile of ice chunks at the base of the climb when they are done ;)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Only a busted leg - thats all!

Bruce it was way more epic then that. Blake fukked himself totally in that fall. IIRC it was a small tree that broke his fall but he broke more than his leg. He escaped without severe head or spinal cord injury but to say he "only busted a leg" is disingenuous. I don't recall him getting back out much at all after that.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
Sorry Tami, It was long ago, I wasn't actually there and the details are as fuzzy there as most things from that era.

Still you must admit, the fact that he survived at all was something to celebrate!

All I'm saying is ice climbing can be seductively easy, but in the end the only thing seperating you from disaster are a few millimeters of steel, especially when you are soloing. Its just not so bright when you are just learning the nuances.

Like us - remember? We were doing exactly the same thing about thirty years ago up on the sherrif badge slabs. It worked! We lived!
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