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Messages 6461 - 6480 of total 8137 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 16, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
Ahh, thanks. Yes, the red stuff is ungood for climbing.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 17, 2014 - 01:54am PT
Here's a couple of pix of Chimney Rock [aka Chimney Rock :)] I posted one of them before.

The rock was pretty good.
Credit: hamie

Climber circled. You'll have to trust me on that!
Credit: Dick Culbert

Hi Glenn.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 17, 2014 - 02:18am PT
Great photos, Hamie!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 03:18am PT
Yes please!! ^^^^^

Mh2, nice shots. 44 certainly has grown in popularity with the sport crowd lately. Rarely a day is there i don't see a couple cars parked on the highway when i'm going to Squamish.

Dave, i'm glad you guys had fun at the papoose.

Dru- Nice shots of the choss. I've driven through there on the way north a few times. I find it beautiful, but less than inviting.. Lol
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 17, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
You know on second thought and closer inspection it seems kinda like one could start up the gray-and-red corner at lower left in my photo and then follow gray rock all the way to the top near the left skyline, provided a buzzy hole-maker and a bucket o' bolts came along with you. Somebody should get right on that.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
Someone should send Jeremy or Munge a plane ticket. I bet a whole bunch of routes would get put up in the canyon!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
Oh i know there are. I just meant a bunch more! Lol
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 17, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
Is a bolt useless if you don't fall onto it?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 17, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
I like to dream that there is at least one crag in that entire canyon that has a rope length high by 100m or so wide wall of overhanging bulletproof rock with nice pockets and edges.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
I think Hilti is happy to sell extra hardware.

Tooth- cool! What routes did you guys do at Pink Cliff?

Maybe there is, somewhere under the choss Ryan. Lol
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 17, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
Bloody oath is right!!

Do we have Bruce questioning the use of bolts now?!

What has happened?

Next thing u know he's going to chop everything @ area 44 & lead it on peckers & hand placed pitons & call it a trad climbing area!!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 17, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
Cool little flick of PAul Mcsorley, Tony Richardson and Chris Brazeau climbing in Patagonia.
https://vimeo.com/78964658

Hey look its RyanD:

Absolutely styling "Dreams of Passion". Look at that technique, dudes ...
Absolutely styling "Dreams of Passion". Look at that technique, dudes got footwork.
Credit: Kyle Koroll

Oplo- That picture of Chimney Rock is awesome.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 17, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
There's about 10 feet of one wall that has pockets - the Mouse/Rather Be on Robson - and that's pretty much it, and I've climbed at most every crag in the canyon.

The Oregon Jack sport crag does have pockets - most with guano weeping out of them as I recall. But that just complements the three foot thick carpet of rat turds at the base.

On the other hand there are a few nice pockets on the same limestone but further north, up by Clinton. Even some nice non-blocky, water worn overhangs - see bottom left in photo for instance.



perswig

climber
Apr 17, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
.... only route on the Penis is up the back side.

I'm gonna pretend I didn't read this.
Dale
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 17, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
There's lotsa cracks on Chimney Rock. The existing route is all gear, no bolts.

Bruce, coffee table books are so "old style". I am working on a book coffee table, but it's hard to attach the legs, and the final result is both unstable and a bit too small.

Meanwhile I am eagerly awaiting Glenn's book on Dick [tentative name "See Dick Climb"], and Anders' multi-volume undertaking, "A History of All Things Squamish".
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
Bruce, coffee table books are so "old style". I am working on a book coffee table, but it's hard to attach the legs, and the final result is both unstable and a bit too small.

Classic Hamish. Thank you. ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
Sweet link Luke! Thanks for that!

Sunday's plan was to head up the Bullethead Gully and check out Wrist Twister. I met up with Nick in a very busy Chief parking lot.

Our version of el cap meadow... lol


After we racked up, we started up the Tantalus wall trail and made our way up to the gully. It was easy going until we reached the fixed ropes. One of them looked fairly new, so that inspired some confidence. The rotten fixed etrier however was not to be trusted especially since the top step was ripped wide open.

I took my time and made sure my left foot was solid whenever possible while wrapping my hand with the rope. The last thing I needed was a huge fall on to Nick at this point in my recovery.

I got up the rope into the central gully and started climbing up the divots left by the passage of many soles. I had almost reached the fixed rope to Eurasian eyes when Nick called up to me. I think it's down here! I looked back and spotted the fixed rope up to our starting ledge.

Nick went first up the next rope, and I was somewhat assured by his safe passage. I took my time and the rope was fairly new, so it wasn't that bad, but i just felt really exposed in that kind of terrain without protection.

When I arrived Nick was looking up at the first pitch. I studied it for a bit when he asked; "do you want to lead the first pitch?" The start of the pitch was an undercling leading up to a blank wall. I could see a good bolt about 10m up, but all I could see before that were rivets, and I couldn't even see the first one.

I still felt sketch from the gully and felt like I'd maxed out my risk meter for the day. Nick said it was cool, because following was harder anyways and I should probably practice it more.

He set off and after a scary start on a dowel which wanted to come out in his hand, he was cruising.

Nick climbing rivets on the first pitch


He led the pitch quite solidly, but because it was so long (50m) it probably took him just over an hour. I followed it pretty quick up till the first lower out, where it took me awhile to realize my ushba backup wasn't working out so great.

As soon as i ditched it and put on my grigri things got a lot easier, but the pitch still took me about an hour to follow. I probably spent 20 of that at the lowerout figuring out my dumb mistake.

It took me awhile to get settled at the belay as Nick racked up for p2. I couldn't figure out how to get comfortable in the belay seat? :) duh.

Nick taking off on p2


Just like that he was off, and i was left alone, sitting in the sky...


yes, that's my finger...


I ate my sandwich and listened to nick curse at sh!tty copperheads. Then i took another picture, and realized I had some texts so I replied to Luke. I had customized my case the night previous to include a clip in loop, for just such shenanigans while on belay.

It was such a beautiful day.


Nick was making good progress.


Until he got to the first dyke however where he couldn't find the hook move for the life of him. He spent quite a while looking for anything that would stick, but the hook just kept skating off everything he tried.



Finally he gave up, and I lowered him back to the belay. Nick asked if i'd like to go up there and check it out, but I declined the offer.

We rapped back to the start, not knowing where the rappel anchor was and not liking the look of the trees below it we would have to rap through, we elected to go back to the starting ledge.

On the way down, the rope snaked through the flake and while it looked really cool, i soon realized when it didn't want to pull out how lame it was. I worked the rope and pulled both strands alternately and eventually I managed to free the snag.

I made it down to the ledge and the rope pulled without incident. I was not fond of going back down the fixed rope, but there was another old petzl rope, just sitting there in a coil weathering away. So i fixed it in the gully and that way i had two strands to rap on the way down instead of just one.

Nick coming down the gully


I'm hoping we get a chance to go back sometime soon!
Sanskara

climber
Apr 17, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 17, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
Nice Mike! Did u notice if there was draws fixed on Eurasian eyes??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:12am PT
You could kind of see it through the trees and there were climbers on it so i couldn't tell.
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