Squamish Photos and Stories

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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 6, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
That's cool Ghost, I met Nico at the top of angels crest a few years(5-6?) back. That same summer as your photo I would guess as I think he did the cobra that summer.

Him and his homie Sean had just finished an on sight simul climb of it in about an hour, we had just pitched it out in 6 or 7 hrs lol. We all smoked a huge spliff & went bouldering. They were both super humble Belgian crushers that had a lotta psyche on Squamish & climbing in general. Really infectious energy & kind dudes.
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Apr 6, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
That would probably have been this trip from the Belgian crushers:

http://bigwallfiesta.blogspot.ca/2008/09/look-good-in-squamish.html

Some of my favorite climbing characters.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 6, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
Wasn't that a trend from 1977????

:-)
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 6, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
It is always a little sad when a geat climbing icon passes away, especially when they are so closely associated with the early development of Squamish. At 86 or 87 Mel was almost a contemporary of Uncle Fred, and they did a lot of routes together. We used to refer to him as Aunt Melanie, but not to his face of course. Quite the 'odd couple'. Rock on, Aunty Mel!!

Last day at WH2O today. That's a little sad too.
MH2

climber
Apr 6, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
That is quite a story of the Black Dyke. Sounds like the author could be the garlic snafflehound creator also. I do not have a clue but I like both stories.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=194810&msg=954352#msg954352



edit:

amazing SAR story, too. heard it on CBC this morning.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 7, 2014 - 01:04am PT
The "Fish" I knew at Squamish (Dave Fulton), the one who climbed Wadd with Scott and rescued the stockbrokers, is not an 85-year-old. My guess is that he's probably in his mid-50s now, and whatever has happened to him since his Squamish days, I don't see it including becoming a mormon preacher.

If you want a look at him, there's a fairly well-known photo of him on the big traverse pitch on the Daily Planet. I think taken by Kevin McLane -- I've pasted it in below (and will remove it if KM asks me to).

The older guy that you published the death notice for is unknown to me. Hamie obviously knew him, and it sounds like he was a serious climber, but he is not the "Fish" who climbed a lot at Squamish in the 80s

Here's the photo...
Fish on the Daily Planet
Fish on the Daily Planet
Credit: Photo by Kevin McLane
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 7, 2014 - 01:37am PT
Ghost

How about $10- for Bruce, and $10- for me? Just cos.....

I vaguely recall that Tricouni may have climbed with Aunty Mel once or twice, and may have some thoughts to add?
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 7, 2014 - 01:54am PT
Bruce got too much sun today...
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 7, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
That black dyke story was fantstic and the bute blurb aswell.

Who wrote them?

Awesome pic of boogie til you puke David. A Lane/Flavelle classic!

IIRC Dave told me that John Howe had prepped the route for a free ascent but hadn't had the chance to climb it yet. Dave and Scott were up there climbing and couldn't resist picking the ripe plum.

Years later Dave scrubbed a line at pet wall and gave John the FA. Even Steven.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 7, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
That black dyke story was fantstic and the bute blurb aswell.

John makes the climb he and Blake did on Needle Peak (the "Busted in Bute" story) sound like something casual but not very pleasant. Well, Luke, this picture's for you:

North Butress of Needle Peak. "The Stinging Needle" John Howe and Blak...
North Butress of Needle Peak. "The Stinging Needle" John Howe and Blake Robinson, 1988
Credit: Ghost

We flew over the drainage John and Blake had bashed up, and we couldn't imagine what it must have been like. And for a climb that didn't live up to their hopes... Well, just look at it.

Both Greg Foweraker and Tami Knight were on the trip during which we saw what John and Blake had done, and I suspect they'll probably both agree that it was totally badass.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 7, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
^^^Yup.^^^


My memory of lookin' at that thing is "Better they than I........."

And that included us being tent-bound for 2 days in a big rain storm.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
Casual Choss.. Lol

His progeny and sweetheart must be spirited away from danger... but its going to take a little money. Fortunately we only need to provide our banking information ( and PIN) in order to make a small donation to this cause.... or just send me the cash in the mail, which ever is easier.

So thats it. Its another ST fund raiser. Buck up people- its for one of the tribe!!!

Lol. Nice theory Bruce. Thanks for the tales. I quite enjoyed both, but Mel was an awesome writer. Sorry to hear of his passing.

I also enjoyed the snafflehouds tale. Thank you for that Andy.

Cool pics Dave! Thanks!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 7, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
Isn't this all biblical ? something about crossing a river and living on the other side ?

Good God man, "Styx" was more than a band who provided the opportunity to boff at yer high school dance...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 7, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
There's a boulder problem in the north walls called Styx. It's kind of scary actually but really good moves ;-)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 7, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
There's a boulder problem in the north walls called Styx.

Speaking of boulders under the North Walls, there's a real monster right up against the base of the wall about half way between the Angels Crest and Borderline. Thing's gotta be well over 20 meters high.

I spent a lot of time right near it putting up a couple of 1-pitch things about... I don't know, maybe seventeen, eighteen years ago? Bouldering was never my thing, but this chunk of stone was pretty impressive. One of you pad people ought to go up there and check it out.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 7, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
Nah that rope belongs to a poster here, it's been there for a while.

He's waiting for higher quality psychedelics before going any higher. Hehe "higher".




MH2

climber
Apr 7, 2014 - 11:14pm PT

I usually put a date on my photos. When they show for 6 seconds on the screensaver, then I can locate them by the date if I want.


Some photos I put a note on. Names or the place; a kind of a cheat on dementia, or just backup for memory.

Of course, the note I put on photos usually gives me some clue about WHY I PUT IT THERE. That is the reason for it being there.


The other day I was, as usual, idly watching the screensaver, when I noticed:







I have no idea what that note is doing there.




Here is a better look at the Roman Chimneys. No note needed.








The better look at the Roman Chimneys comes from 7 Oct 2010. That was the time I learned that my Petzl Tikka, while helpful for climbing in the dark or coming down the trail at night, was useless for spotting a rappel station 10 metres to the side. Fortunately, my partner had a better headlamp.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1281932&msg=1281932#msg1281932
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 12, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
We're here. Saturday night in Squamish. Too late to climb, but the weather looks good for the next couple of days.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 13, 2014 - 12:35am PT
Post up where you're going climbing at some point Ghost, or maybe we will just see you at the church on 99 in the morning.


Hey Bruce! I meant to say hi to you in the grocery store last night but got sidetracked trying to convince the stock boy that I saw you put a pack of razor blades in your pocket.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 13, 2014 - 12:41am PT
Social media updates have led me to believe that the monkeys are indeed "sending"...

Hope every one enjoys the nice weather.
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