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Messages 6381 - 6400 of total 8241 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Yes Mike, summarily shot. Some would argue that any dry tooling anywhere kinda misses the point but there's probably another thread around here to talk about that kind of stuff :-)


Skaha looks nice.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Forgotten Wall where you can go chip to chip

Hahahaha... Totally! I'm just kidding of course! Skaha was beautiful. A little cold in the shade, but puffy's were made for a reason. Friction was excellent.
Rolfr

Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Oct 17, 2013 - 02:04am PT
I've heard rumours that Dry tooling at Squish = Cacodemon Boulder the drilled route.

Or else wait for the smears at the Bluffs and the Chief to form. I prefer the warmer climates but are there any good tales about climbing the numerous thin ice smears around the Chief?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 02:21am PT
Good question. Anyone ever touch those gnarly smears on opal wall? I know Diedre has at least one successful ascent.

BK has mentioned that Angels Crest is a prime candidate for a mixed ascent mid winter, as my experiences proved last fall. That tale has been retold in the new Alpinist 44, Full Value section, and you'll find it on reputable magazine shelves now.

Here's a sneak peak..
Credit: marty(r)
Thanks to Martyr for the photo.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 17, 2013 - 02:33am PT
Nice Big Mike!! Can't wait to check that out!!

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 17, 2013 - 09:35am PT
Wow, grats Mike!

Sign my tits!

;-)
MH2

climber
Oct 17, 2013 - 10:36am PT
Good going, Mike. Really like the Andreas illustration that could be any climbing era and is pitch-perfect The Acrophobes and reminds of watching Sergeant Preston of the Yukon as a kid.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 17, 2013 - 10:40am PT
Hey my granite loving brothers from the north...

Good job on the Alpinist story there Mike.
I read it on my patio this morning wearing flip flops. ;-)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 17, 2013 - 11:31am PT
I read it on my patio this morning wearing flip flops. ;-)

A low blow!

But big congratulations to Mike
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 17, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
Nicely done Mike! My two years of free subscriptions ran out with 43 so I'm gonna have to bike to the store and buy it like a working class stiff.

Rolf: my introduction to ice climbing was on those thin smears you mention. went to climb Shannon Falls in 96 but there were already around 6 parties on it when we got there. We bouldered around on some thin stuff at what is now AMO Wall and then went and laid siege to a 25 m high slab of verglas at Furry Creek

Stubais were too short to make good clubs though
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Hahahahhahaha! Nice pic Dru! You guys are wacky! ;)

Thanks everyone! I'm pretty stoked! Thanks to Tami for the opportunity and to Matt Samet and Katie Ives for their amazing editing skills, to help this trip report evolve into a true story!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 17, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Dammmit where is my #44????


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
I haven't got one yet either, although i don't have a subscription, and i'm not even sure they have my address.. Lol. I should probably call the office and find out.. Lol
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Oct 17, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
The metric version is still being printed...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 17, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
^^^
It has 1.4 times more pages.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 19, 2013 - 12:18am PT
After a beauty lunch at Kozo Cafe, and a brief heckle of T-Mac laying some brick down, I met up with Kyle to go do some rock scampering. We picked up Brownie to come join us but we think he was still a little too disheveled from yesterday's epic solo journey. So Kyle out of nowhere suggested we do Frail Scales. I hell yah'd that one.

It was a little chilly, noisy, and dirty at the bottom of it. The fun climbing up bomber layback flakes made you forget that you were right beside the highway.
Kyle on Frail Scales
Kyle on Frail Scales
Credit: Brownie
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 19, 2013 - 12:32am PT
Iszat the first time that thing has been climbed since the eighties.

???

:-)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 19, 2013 - 12:48am PT
I know eh??? Bet ya those motoruses were wonderin who those retarted kooks were up there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2013 - 01:03am PT
Nice! Looks fun! Kyle's been eager to get on that one for ahwile!

Did he send it clean?

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 19, 2013 - 01:07am PT
Ya he did. It was kinda a featherbag 10d. The flakes are cruiser. Theres a sorta tricky mantle near the top though. I hung there cuz I was being a weenie crying about frozen fingers.
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