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Messages 6401 - 6420 of total 9010 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2014 - 02:25am PT
Well they didn't see the moon today. I think that would be very difficult in a body harness at a hanging belay... Lol

I made sure to wave a certain finger at em!!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 14, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
Two full moons made an appearance on the Camel many years ago that scared the Grouse copter into shutting down completely for four hours.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 14, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
A brand new bit, three holes, new 10+ route, sunny Fraser Valley granite, what's not to like?

I have a broken rib is what's not to like. So after scrubbing and working the moves on this line pre-break, I ended up handing it over, gift wrapped, yesterday to a good friend of mine for the send. Despite having seven kids and consequently getting to climb about twice per year, he sent. Good times.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 14, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
SEVEN KIDS ??????


Dude !!! CONDOMS !!!!!!!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 14, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Somebody's gotta work to pay for the baby boomers' retirements right?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 14, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
Well dude, A lot of us subsidized your education Drew and still toil to make our tax deadlines and dream of a retirement. It regards time passing and the rewards of capitalizing VS, being an employee ...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 14, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
Sorry for the OT dude!

And dudette!!






Hey Mike dude I went to check u out around the magic hour(615) last night to take a photo but the wall was clear.

How was the wall???!!?!!!!!!!??!??!111111!!!!!!!!??!?!!!1111

Sanskara

climber
Apr 14, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
Mike might be the only climber on ST that actually climbs.

Good on you bro with all you have been through..
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 14, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
Mike might be the only climber on ST that actually climbs.


You have been paying attention Sanskara!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 14, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
Mike might be the only climber on ST that actually climbs.

I don't know about that. He said he'd done some climbing yesterday, but all we saw him do was eat food and drink beer.
scaredycat

Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
Apr 15, 2014 - 12:00am PT

So, if you were coming up from, oh say, Seattle to climb in Squamish, would you:
1) plead to say with a pretty distant friend in Vancouver (no worries, y'all are safe)
2) stay at Klahanie Campground
3) drive logging roads until you found a nice site moderately close to to the climbing
x) plan 9

?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 15, 2014 - 12:11am PT
Klahanie campground is a cool spot I think.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 15, 2014 - 12:15am PT
I thought drinking beer and eating was climbing....
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 15, 2014 - 12:15am PT
You could support the Bulletheads campsite and contribute to the well being of a Provincial Park that supports climbers.

It was a very short time ago that the high school grads would celebrate by burning rubber tires in a bonfire where the nice picnic tables are today and climbers were open game if they dared find themselves there during all the fun.

It truly is like night and day how a very special piece of stone has become respected and loved in comparison to how it was treated in the past.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 15, 2014 - 12:47am PT
The provincial campground is a cool spot I think.


It's good when there is toilet paper there.







So anyhow, just to change the tune for a minute here I just got off the phone with a friend who will remain unnamed but had a harrowing tale that i'll share here:


On top of the roman chimneys there is some ledges with a cave with a few steep sport routes called the shelter. On the sides & base of the cave there is some real steep, powerful bouldering possibilities. Anyways he was up there by himself bouldering when he ripped off a 5' long by 2' wide by a foot thick slab of granite causing him to assrocket & have the slab land on his lap, pinning him down. With help from endorphins he was able to flip the rock off and some how stand up. He soon realized he shouldn't/couldn't stand up and had to lie back down. He tried to crawl/drag himself to the backside trail but after only a few meters he had to make the call. Apparently he got plucked by John H on a long line becoming possibly the first bouldering heli-vac in Squamish history?

Anyways, turned out he was real lucky & only ended up with a fractured pelvis. An inch or two in any direction & the doc said it woulda squished something he would have needed or wanted in the future.


Watch out for choss there everyone.....

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 15, 2014 - 01:30am PT
Holy Cow.

Edit

Big chunks of granite exfoliating near or onto climbers has got to be my biggest fear. It fricken terrifies me. And the more I pay attention to the idea of lurking death blocks the more I realize they're every where just waitng to be motivated.


Here hopin for a full recovery to our fallen compadre hopefully he's got some friends or family to help him through the recovery.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 01:45am PT
Lol. Classic tale about Dave Lane Bruce. Thanks.

Very cool pictures of the chimney Andy! I gotta get up there!

Everyone wants wall pics and i'm gonna get there but i have a few other tales to tell first.

Ryan that is such a gnarly story!!!
I was so glad to have an intact pelvis.


Last week was pretty darn decent for climbing. Sunday was sunny and warm but it had rained the day before so there were definitely some wet spots. Sandra had the day off miraculously, so we finally got her out cragging for her first day of the season.



She wanted to lead Davey Jones's Locker but it was soaked, so she settled for Pixie Corner after a little encouragement. (I told her i'd lead it if she didn't!)

She did well and almost got the redpoint despite the moistness of the cracks.


Then we went to burgers and I lead wisecrack, and we left early because the wind was rather brisk.

Edit oh ya! She asked me to take pics of her bad gear for her:


Funny thing is this was the crux piece and i've never seen her place a crappier piece in her climbing career! Lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 02:02am PT
Sanskara: I'm not the only guy that climbs around here. Just the one of the only who enjoys sharing about my climbing adventures.

I'll admit that i have an ulterior motive however, and that is to spark memories of the past, in the hopes that they will be shared and Squamish climbing history/mythology will be further enhanced by doing so. I love hearing fa tales from the pioneers. The things they did with the gear they had constantly amaze me.

The boldness of the average climber back then seemed to be at a much higher par.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2014 - 03:05am PT
It rained the first couple days of the week, but the sun popped out again late on Tuesday making Wednesday somewhat dry again.

I got out with Toby who had a couple gigs for me to look at.

We parked at his place in the bluffs and headed up to Penny Lane.



We warmed up on Quarryman and I led it for the first time in over a year. It was a bit wet at the crux, which was scary, but I got through it and it felt good.

Then Toby hit up Clandestine Affair 5.9


I managed to follow cleanly despite some sloppy footwork on the traverse.

After we headed over to Penny Lane and I turned down the lead. I'm just not ready for a crux like that right off the ground quite yet.

Here is Toby well above the crux.


I fell at the start after i got established on the crack, and after i took down the gear anchor then soloed over to the power windows anchor, Marc Andre appeared on penny and i offered him a ride on our rope.



Notice the excellent duffer style. Marc is headed to the valley. Hopefully we'll see him down there!!

Later that night i called Toby and we schemed up some big plans for the next day.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 15, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Great pictures Mikey ma boy, well except the one of micromarc duffersittin' in a tank top... Ouch

I would take the Satan Slit descent over that any day.

I had an awesome day on Sunday, after an acupuncture visit with Melissa Wheaton, Aislinn and I cruised to The Chief where I promtly sent the Stewamus LAyback, of the couch, first try with no pre-placed gear or any bouldering pads....

It was "heads up" to say the least.

Watched two teams on the take on The Grandwall: the first team had one leader leading every pitch AND carrying the pack. He styled through the sword crux and was looking solid up the final stretch, but couldn't hang on to the chains and took the ride, not once but twice.

The second party; a guy and gal with the guy leading everything except the Pillar. What I miss the most is that nice belay break between leading the Pillar and following the Sword, especially when there weather is as good as it was Sunday...


I have a couple pictures but the keep flipping sideways when I try to Upload them. Shoot.


...........................................................................


Mike the suspense is killing me, What happened the next day?

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