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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Cowboys and Indians A3+
FA Perry Beckham solo
FOD Perry Beckham, Scott Cosgrove
An engaging, exciting and adventurous route on an outrageously steep chunk of rock. The route for he most part follows exfoliating flakes interspersed with wild hooking sections and rivet ladders.
I would estimate 40 hook placement on the 3 pitches led, most of which bolt protected though there were some section protected by equalized fixed head(which I hooked around but equalized with a screamer) some on the hooking on p2 was protected by hand placed pitons and beaks. The last pitch involved hooking around a c1 hand crack I didn't have cams for.
On the "A1" traverse section of pitch 3 I was cam jugging between fixed cams and about 15 feet left of my last protection piece standing on one cam and sussing out another, when I added a bit of weight to my next piece a 3'x2'x6" section of the flake snapped right off hittin me in the left wrist and continuing downward.
I instantly began yelling rock at the top of my lungs. As the rock hit the slab below it exploded in to 3 big pieces 2 of which landed within a meter in either side of a fellow climber who unbeknownst to us was down below. The third chunk of this section of flake grazed this woman's beanie, which was on her helmetless head. Within millimetres of total skull obliteration.
The rest of pitch was stout with some free climbing past some hand place tomahawks, some thinness and underestimation of the difficulty.
Kieran got us through the roof and to the start of the last pitch at a steady pace given the steepness, fatigue and lack of water.
For ultimate efficiency I would have preferred to do each a block of 3 pitches but Kieran wanted the first pitch but not the second so he led p1, p4 and p5. Leaving me with p2, p3 and p6. Making for 3 leader swaps and associated friggery.
Overall a great outing with an excellent partner. Great to get back into saddle being that it was our first wall in over a year.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Sh#t yeah Luke! Nice pics and climbing all day it sounds like. Holy sh#t on the beanie graze.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Nice stuff Luke but you didn't provide the info that everyone is dying to know.
Who lead the spooning?
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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I always thought climbers took cragging below other climbers in Squish a little too casually. Nice work for February!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:58am PT
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Haha Ryan, I Laughed Quietly to Myself (LQTM) almost LOL'd.
Ha, the horns again and on post 7666!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Is that FFA? First Feburary Ascent. ;)
It's too bad i'm a dumbass and i didn't. Bring my good camera... I found a better spot to shoot from with no wires, so hopefully you guys do the badge route too one of these days, and i can get some sweet close-ups.
Nice work, both of youz. Very proud ascent. Got my wall stoke burning again.
Lol Justin!! I'm always doing the horns lately.. ;)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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Ditto. Same granite, different world.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 23, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
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Awesome! Good job on the climb and the TR, Luke. That pretty much answers my questions. Thanks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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Yes, great job, and different world.
A question: my knowledge of the names of some of the features there is sadly out of date. Is Sasquatch Ledge the big treed area under the Acrophobes?
Glenn
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Glenn- not quite. Right at the top of the badge. It's clearly visible at the top of my mid closeup.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
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Does that let you walk/scramble off into the South Gully?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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Yes. The boys rapped into the gully.
BmacD sighting at Penny Lane!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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anyone know this chickenhead?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
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nope.
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
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Magic Carpet Ride…?
If so, is the bottom dry? it tends to stay slimy longer than most slabs.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
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yes and yes.
the last pitch is a tad slimy at the top..
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Nice how you can see the bolt clipped in your photo.
I know that chickenhead, or its cousin.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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What I mainly use my photos for is watching them on the screensaver at 6 seconds per, while listening to music. With 573 tracks and over 120,000 images and random shuffle there is not much obvious repeating, but just now I saw an image twice in a short interval. I will do the math eventually to find the expected waiting time for a repeat, but for now:
Why are aid climbers found between hydro lines?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
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those chickenheads are fricking amazing..
nothing else like it in all of squambodia.
couldn't help myself, i had to stop to take a photo.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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What route MH2?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!