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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2014 - 03:10am PT
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Hamie! Thank you so much sir! Those shots are epic and historical all wrapped in one. Very nice.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 18, 2014 - 07:18am PT
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OMG!!!
Later is waaaaaay better than never, Hamish.
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Sep 18, 2014 - 08:07am PT
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Wow Wayne, way to go! We chatted with you briefly a couple weeks back as you were approaching Angels Crest - how did that ascent go? You're a total inspiration!
JS
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 18, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Love the photos, Hamie! Thanks for posting those!
I haven't done The Sheriff's Badge, yet, Fishboy. Brad did it the day before our Freeway ascent. Hopefully I'll get to it this Fall, or in the Spring.
Thanks for your kind words Jstod. If Freeway is one of the best climbs for an adaptive Squamish ascent, Angels Crest is one of the more difficult. On one pitch I had to jug at a 45* angle for about 40 meters to avoid being lowered into the forest. Jugging back up through the trees is a fantastic strategy if one likes getting their line tangled in branches. We had a stellar time up there, none the less.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Was that angel's crack Wayne? It would have been your second pitch!
Edit: ya sweet photos BJ! Thanks
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 18, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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Angel's crack wasn't bad at all, Mike. The pitch that I was writing about is up quite a bit higher. None of it was too difficult. I really loved being able to free climb two pitches in a row.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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Here are some pictures from the last couple months in and around Squamish. Due to injuries, I didn't get out this year near as much as I would have liked, but I still found time to get on some classics and keep it a little more mellow.
RyanD on Eurasian Eyes with Remy.
I've been wanting to climb this thing for years, and finally got around to it a couple weeks ago. Complete with backflip off the top.
Some of you met my brother Caleb at Psych Ledge the other day. He just moved out here and is getting into climbing. For his first day on a rope, I took him up Rock On and Butt Face. He sent everything.
We were moving pretty fast the whole day, and there were three parties that let us pass them. I couldn't get a shot of Caleb on the crux of this pitch, so I took one of myself, with him and another party below.
I then taught him the art of the finger lock on Exasperator.
We bailed off the Pillar due to slow parties ahead of us.
I don't usually take selfies, but when I do, it's cause I'm in a rad position on my onsight solo of Hairpin.
RyanD on Squealing Pork for his birthday.
And here are a couple shots my wife got yesterday of me on Rug Munchers at Chek. I hadn't been on it since sometime last year, so I could not remember the beta at all. I figured it out on my first attempt, gave it a good go on TR, and for my redpoint burn, I made it to the second last clip before pumping out. Maybe I can get it next time?
I then spent about 15 minutes trying to get my knot untied. I need to start using that double bowline.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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Glad you liked them Tami :) Hopefully we get a couple more decent days before this weather becomes the norm. I finally feel like I'm getting strong again.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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Nice shots Nathan!
Double David Bowieline is the perfect knot for the bolt clipping poofter inside all of us, especially when it's humid and ur doggin' up at chipamus glueland on should have been forgotten wall .
Let me know when u want to go back and tie a few :-)
Weather looks sweet after Thursday.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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I didn't notice a sign on the actual rock, although there is one on the seawall saying it's illegal. I'm not sure where Dick Culbert and the OGs originally climbed up, or where other people usually go up, but I climbed directly below and slightly left of where I am in the picture. It wasn't hard, a couple moves of 5.8, maybe 9 getting above that slight overhang. It was actually sketchier higher up, cause there was more grass than rock.
There were a couple people watching and taking pictures, one woman asked me to climb out of view so that she could get a shot of the thing without me in it.
Ryan - I reeeeeaallly want to get back on that thing. I was so stoked on how far I actually got yesterday, way further than I expected. I've been going over the moves in my head so that I don't have to try and relearn them next time I'm there. Twelve moves from that jug in the middle gets me over the top. I think I got it. I'm down to go this weekend, or as soon as the weather allows!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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There were 3 or 4 routes on Siwash, more or less one on each side. The one in the photo was the easiest, low to mid fifth. Lotsa fun times, even a few good tales. Tricouni, remember Halloween? How could anyone forget!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2014 - 12:09am PT
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Great stuff guys! Thanks Nate! So awesome to see some action on this thread while i'm away.
Sorry the weather sucks!!
Hope it clears up soon!!
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MH2
climber
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Sep 24, 2014 - 07:20am PT
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Yes. Good action, Nate. You cover a lot of ground of many kinds. The photos have good personality.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Hamie, I certainly do remember the Halloween escapade. Trying to find a photo of the aftermath.
Part of the problem with Siwash Rock was getting to it. At low tide, you could walk across. At mid-tide you could wade across.
At higher tide, you could swim, or do a Tyrolean traverse. Rather ass-backwards, in this case!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Awesome!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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Yes, Tami, the harbor is empty.
And to keep this relevant, if you go round the point just to the right of the ship and keep going, you come to SQUAMISH!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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BITD, way BITD, things were not quite as they are today.........
1. The OGs were YGs, and they ruled the world.
2. There was no seawall and walking path to Siwash.
3. Ladders were made of wood, not metal.
On Nov 1st, 19-- a large photo similar to the one below appeared in the Vancouver Sun. Someone's mother had phoned them and said "I hear that Siwash Rock is for sale." The paper investigated.
Their caption read:
"Enterprising pranksters went to a lot of trouble to put this sign on Siwash Rock. The "For Sale" sign specifies a level view lot, which is stretching the truth a little. Another sign at the base of the tree reads "Open House"."
Climbing Siwash in the dark is a bit tricky, especially if it is your first time up--or so I have heard....
Removing the sign proved to be somewhat of a challenge for the park employees. They had to float some ladders around to the rock, and then carefully [very] remove the sign.
After they had hauled their ladders back up to the parking lot, it was pretty much Miller Time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sep 24, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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Hamie, I'm glad you've got photos of that; I can't find mine. Nice memories of that night...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 24, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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BWAHAHAHAHAHAAHHA!!
The young gangsters getting it done and having fun.
I like how you happened to be there right on time to get a shot of the Park Narcs floundering Hamie. Classic!!
BTW, u boys still rule the world :-)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 25, 2014 - 02:14am PT
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hey there say, Ryan D... and all, just saw your post, here, (well, last, until the spam-post that got in here) and:
wow, i NEED to read up on the squamish stories and photos...
this is REALLY NEAT!!!
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