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Timmc

climber
BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
Bruce, I reckon the Natives and the good folks of BC won that battle. The war still rages.
Ya, the environmentalists (hippies?) looked good in the news, as did the Raging Grannies, but most of them were from the universities in the city. Same with Carmannah, Tsitika, etc.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 30, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Climbing in the summer used to be just one big brown fog out with the delicious smell.

Yup. And now it's just one endless parade of noisy automobiles on the highway below you. Is pollution from yuppie whistler-goers better than pollution from redneck mill workers?
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Sep 30, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
@thekidcormier

Two Alaskans I met (Todd & Dustin) were racking up for the Grand Wall. Figured I'd help them finish their coffee, and wander out to take a shot or two by headlamp for poops and giggles since my partner wouldn't be out of his tent for another 3 hours. They ended up on Bellygood by noon. Here's a couple more,





thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 30, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
Bruce, where ya climbing today? need a belay?
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 30, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
Whuts got helium in it right now & is at the top of the front page of this forum makes me wanna throw up all over someone.

... I dont get it.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 30, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
... I dont get it.

Stick around for a while, you'll get it eventually.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 30, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
Ha ha Tami. You're right that this is a great thread. But that ghastly poo-filled thing that keeps floating to the top is one of the funniest threads in a long time. (And yes, I'm guilty guilty guilty of bumping it.)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 30, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
Here's some more Squamish porn.

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Mmm, one of the best 5.10's in Squamish. Nice photo.

Speaking of the Badge, wasn't that buldging bicep photo of the undercling on the Planet framed up on the wall of the olde Mountain Burger? I seem to recall being inspired to do it every can visit of every breakfast special I scoffed down there. Rappelling off the Planet after that undercling pitch was fun stuff, a memorable dangle indeed.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
Hah, no not Flavelle.

Glad you like kitty porn Tami. Yes, a thought provoking avatar. Leaves many unanswered questions...

Incidentally, Relic's jet boat's name was "Hi Baller". Cool, huh? He lived in Whistler? Wow.





Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 30, 2011 - 10:46pm PT

Prepping for a 1993 November attempt on U Wall. Guy on the left is eating a mcdonald's big breakfast with a LA piton. Guy on the right is reading Deuce's how to book. Note pink lawn flamingo rigged with duct tape in the gear pile.


M. shows the damage from a 20 meter slab fall while attempting & failing to clip the bolt after the big runout on White Lightning

Spelunking in the depths of Sunshine Chimney

I remember the first time I did this (92) there was a campfire complete with 70s-era stubby beer bottles on top of the chockstone.

Bullethead East Direct p2 this summer

P1 of the Planet

Climber on Calculus, from Powaqqatsi

Bar Knuckles

The increasingly innapropriately named Clean Boulders

Quartz Pillar


Winter sunset light on Mosquito
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Sep 30, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Nice shot of U-Wall, Relic!

A few weeks ago I was down at Seasoned in the Sun and ended up 1/2 leading, and 1/2 watching some Brit on the .12d portion of The Shadow... It's that dihedral in the back of the shot for anyone that doesn't know. Anyways, for about half the climbing he sounded like he was trying to squeeze out the most persistent, combative turd he'd ever had, though finally did manage to pinch it off clean. When he let out a whoop at the top of the pitch his buddies, our party of three, and a few others lord knows where started cheering at full volume. There were probably 7 or 8 monkeys screeching away for a while in some sort of group high.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 1, 2011 - 12:19am PT
How did you know it was some token brit on The Shadow from way down there? Did he yell out a few "bloody hell" screams in between the turd squeezing?

That is a pretty proud pitch. After Croft onsighted it in on the FFA in 1988, it didn't get repeated until over a decade later. My friend in the U-Wall picture, he made the second free ascent of The Shadow. He downgraded it to 12d from Croft's original 13b grade. Subsequently, The Shadow started seeing more and more ascents.
nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Oct 1, 2011 - 12:19am PT
TFPU
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Oct 1, 2011 - 12:20am PT
anybody do dream catcher lately?

i drink urine.

NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Oct 1, 2011 - 12:30am PT
He started talking at the ledge up top... before that it was just REALLY loud pushing in the thin stemming stuff. I was happy to watch because that is one seriously PROUD pitch. Looked super sustained, and the sounds of struggle were enough to get me more focused on his climb than mine. I was curious about the gear, too... What's the pro like in the business?

As to Dreamcatcher/Rurp Riot, Sean McColl was the last guy I heard of sending it. Video!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Oct 1, 2011 - 01:50am PT
sean who?

does he work at the lady's foot licker?

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 06:53am PT
Wow! This thread took wings today!

Bruce- Thanks for the inspiration.. Something to do while Luke is scrubbing OHO. Loggers sounds like its right up my alley.

Unfortunately logging seemed to go the way of the dodo bird all round BC. My home town of Campbell River was similarly affected growing up. One day everyone was flush and had new clothes and cars and houses and the next all the “good jobs” at the plants were gone and everyone was looking for work, selling everything and moving away.

I remember taking the Stoker chair up as a kid to get back to the bottom of Solar chair after coming from the Blackcomb Glacier. Stoker run is still there and is a favourite of mine on a day where solar still isn’t open yet.

NigelSSI- Sick photos. I love the Pitch In Time one, I was at the bulletheads 5 or 6 times this summer.. Bullethead East was a blast! There has been a lot of good work there lately.. Still quite a few routes there could use some love too.
Ahh yes the other reason they call it the Sword. Can't wait to get on that pitch. Got a look at it this summer up close, but had to bail cause it was dark :)

Tami- like Luke said you are right it is the table from Brohm. Take the drill.. Gotcha :) If i ever make it over there :)

Ya the Malamute closure sucks bigtime. I went in there with a partner 8 or 9 years ago now and he led Caboose and we top roped Clean Crack. I was barely up to the challenge of Caboose and was completely lost on Clean Crack. I would love a chance to do those routes again and would do so in a heartbeat, were it not Illegal. You think they could put up a fence or something... CN .....

“But we all have lost that war what with the Wall St banksters and their Ponzi scheme economics.”
You are so on the money with this..

Ghost-
Is pollution from yuppie whistler-goers better than pollution from redneck mill workers?
Looks like we traded one evil for another... I think logging paid better than tourism.

Nice photo of Blazing Saddles. I did that one for my first time this year , had to take a break just under the roof then when I got up over the roof I was so gripped on the shitty slab foot and couldn’t get a good jam lost the foot and couldn’t hold it, whipped over the roof.. pretty fun actually.

All right all this talk.. Where’s the photos? Here’s one.. Not mine though Jamie Chong’s. Came up when I looked up Sean McColl. Nice work on the SA btw Sean! You made it look easy! So casual and collected.. Sharma had to fight for that FA! This pic is from an early 2009 practice Run..
Jim you must have missed the link to the Dreamcatcher FA that Dr. Sprock put up?
Sean McColl - DreamCatcher - Squamish, BC by jamiechong, on Flickr

Tami- “Certainly cleaning has been taken to some wildass extremes now. I'm not fond of what was done to the Cling Peaches wall ( someone used a power sprayer pumping water from the slough below - or so I was told ). But then again hard for me to judge what with some of the unearthing I did BITD.”
This is what I heard too, and it was very clean when I was down there this summer. If we left it alone and didn’t climb there it would all grow back within 5-10 years anyways..

I wasn’t out with Bruce today I was at work in the rain. That was Luke who offered him a belay, but I would not be averse to giving him one either...

Thank you for contributing to this thread all!! The taco has had a significant lack of Squamish content since Ander’s thread died off and Patrick Oliver inspired me to share my pictures more on his Old Photos Just for Fun Thread.

And just for Nature another photo. This is one of the few times I ever went bouldering outside.



Relic- Super sick pic of U-wall!


Oplopanax- Sick road rash! Good work, very nice photos!

ROLF! “Turd squeezing”

Dr. Sprock- ok ill bite why do you drink urine?

NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Oct 1, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
Big Mike, that boulder problem is 'The Cutting Edge'. Pretty fun!
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