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Messages 41 - 60 of total 7715 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 11:44am PT
Biotch- Really? You did that? How did you get back down? I would not like to downclimb that flake.



Last pitch of Upper Echelon
Climber Py
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 27, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
Climbing Wonderland
Climbing Wonderland
Credit: thekidcormier
Photo: Matt Cormier
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 27, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
Sprock - sorry , already maried :-D


Biotch?
Pad out the big flake????


Seriously? Duuuuuuude.


How'z going down the chimney in back ? I don't have a clear memory of that thing but recall well playin' around inside it . Or maybe havin' a pee in there. :-D
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
Tami I thought about that but I haven't tried it yet. I'll be sure to give it a go next time. I "Tron"ed that thing so i should really sack up and lead it next time too.. I was in photo mode that day..

Speaking of Center Street



by Mike Cowper, on Flickr

Edit: Luke tell Matt nice photo! I wanna climb sparky's crack now! The 10b second pitch looks sick!
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 27, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Hey Tami, I have a question for you regarding one(of the many)the FFAs, the route in particular "Overlyhanging out" @ the malamute sent by you and Peter C. in 1980. The current route according to my trusty ol' K.M. 'A Climbers Guide To Squamish' 2001 Edition the main overlap sections are accessed via 'Meares Island', but It notes that You and Peter are believed to have started on 'Cling Peaches' and accessed the overhanging dihedral from the lowest possible point. Which IMO is more appealing line as it maintains the same natural line through out.

If you have any recollection of the particular route it would be super rad to hear what you remember. I was in the area today takin some photos of new lines I would like to climb and what not, and this line really appealed to me, albeit the access to the corner needing some vegetation removal.

I would have some photos to perhaps refresh your memory and provide eye candy for those who have not yet seen all the amazing cracks in the area. However I decided I'd rap in to check out the route and apon pussiking out of there I managed to trundle my (girlfriends) digi cam in to the abiss, along with all the rock porn I was going to drool over until it dry outside... oops.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
oops. guess your gonna have to get that g12. My phone died today guess i'm gonna have to get that iphone going.

Maybe if you find the camera the memory card will still be intact?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 28, 2011 - 01:38am PT
kidcormier - I'm pretty sure Peter & I started up what used to be called "3 Night Route on the Malemute" noted in Smaill's guide as having been first done in '71.
I have no memory of the right facing lower part of OHO. That doesn't mean we didn't do it; I simply don't recall following it. But nor did I follow the final pitch..........which I'll explain.

I don't know who named "Meare's Island" ; I suspect it was Kevin. Lots of climbers at Squish, however, did work as loggers and so it could well have been someone else.

THe upper pitch of OHO we did in the winter. It was cold and the day was short. We got to the base of the final pitch & Peter went up to free it. Pro was sketchy - this was before any cam-type stuff or RP's. He worked his way up the thing and put in some final piece of pro and set off for the tree at the top. And disappeared out of my sight.

Later he told me what had happened ( and also later on I saw the upper part of the route )The route was not clean & there was a lot of lichen. He ventured out from the last piece he put in and encountered some hard climbing. He was gripped and it took what seemed like forever to gather the courage to make those sketchy dirty final moves well above his pro towards the tree.

For my part, I was on a hip belay , down below and slowly congealing as the sun drifted towards then behind the mountains to the west and the rope didn't move but I didn't hear anything. I assumed Peter was still on lead. The temp dropped and I was underdressed for the effort. The rope would move a little and then go slack. After what seemed like hours, the rope shifted out from me and I heard a little 'off-belay' and then Peter lowered back into view.

We rapped from there as darkness fell.

I don't recall how hard he said it was. It was certainly hard. And epic! I simply froze my ass off.

Afterword - kidcormier - are you Acadian? Cormier is an Acadian name :-)

thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 28, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
Thanks for the reply Tami, I enjoy reading your recollections of the golden era! I'm about to head back to the area and try to find said camera, and clean the access to lowest, most northern entrance into the feature. Hopefully the memory card or perhaps(extremely unlikely) even the camera is still intact...

Yes Tami you are right the name is Acadian, I grew up in Prince Edward Island, how ever my father father was never close to my family, having kicked my dad out of the house when he was 14, so I never really got to find out where the name came from or any of my ancestry.

-Luke
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 28, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Hopefully the memory card or perhaps(extremely unlikely) even the camera is still intact...

You never know. I dropped a camera (Nikon, in the film era) from the start of the fourth pitch of Rock On many years ago. Watched it plummet straight onto the rocks in the gully. I didn't think there'd be any point in looking for it, but decided that maybe the insurance company would believe me about needing a replacement if I could actually show them a shattered piece.

So when we got down I trudged around to the south side and back up the gully to look for whatever was left. What I found was a completely intact and usable camera. A filter I'd had on the lens was shattered and there was a dent in the lens barrel. That was it. I took some pictures to test it, and they were fine. (I did replace the lens barrel, but could have chosen not to.)

So go look. You'll probably find wreckage, but you never know.
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 29, 2011 - 12:35am PT
50m+ of air time, unnoticed. I didn't realise it was gone until I went to take a picture... When I went back today and rappeled in, this time all the way to "Meares Island" and spent a while sawing back the alder bushs that have overrun the area. Then I decided, what the hell, I'd scope the Island as I thrashed my way down the sloppy, berry bush covered terrace, I notice glint of pink, and there it way perched mid berry bush as If it had a soft landing, was Aislinns Hot Pink digi cam... and yep still works, although the screen is slightly more dinged it still tkaes a might fine picture.
The Rocky mountain Express.
The Rocky mountain Express.
Credit: thekidcormier

Also tami here's pictures of the crack I inquired about:
The Start
The Start
Credit: thekidcormier
-The start would need a clean up, but it IS illegal to BE on the ground there. Possible solution; put a bolted anchor at the start of the crack. Thoughts?

Then in thru this:
Middle overlaps
Middle overlaps
Credit: thekidcormier

And then the Icing on the metaphorical cake:
Overly Hanging Out
Overly Hanging Out
Credit: thekidcormier
-2 Nice undercling section and 2 technical looking slab sections inthe the ultra goods!

If indeed you and peter did FFA this section of the route then It would ultimately be your guys call whether or not I can add an anchor for rappel access into this delightful looking traverse, as it is trespassing on B.C. rail property to access via that grungy looking corner .

Thanks,

http://thekidcormier.blogspot.com/
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2011 - 12:55am PT
Tami- Awesome story. It musta been cold hanging there holding the rope for so long. Did you guys ever clean stuff before the fa? Or was that strictly frowned upon?

I'm always amazed at the stuff you guys did on hip belays back then.
I toprope hip belayed my parner on the crux pitch of sparrow this year.
I think she would rather not ever repeat the experience and will never let me forget my atc at the belay again! :)

Your beautiful story deserves another picture. Seeing as That Kid Cormier inspired said
story, it seems fitting that it should be of him.

On the Roo


Luke, If you look at your book again you will notice that the FA is the one that started on Cling Peaches on aid.

This gets me to thinking about Grub Street. Me and a buddy did it this summer and it was super fun.

I led Cider crack and found it very sustained! Not your typical Squamish 9! We did the Knuckleduster variation to finish and it was excelent.

I was wondering what line you guys did on the FA. From the 01' book it looks like you stayed right for the first two pitches and then deeked
left for the last one. Did you do the left pitch or stay right on the Knuckleduster variation? It also says you can finish up right on Stooges.

Allright all this talk.. how bout another picture..

Anyone ever climb this one?


Ghost- Funny story. Ever tell Nikon that one? Looks like your camera isn't the only one to suffer a large fall and survive :)

Luke- You should post that question on squamishclimbing.com too.


Squamish Sunset
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 29, 2011 - 11:48am PT
Mike: I took your advice and posted my question on squamish climbing, maybe i can spark some conversation on there. I'm going to head back to the malamute to attempt an onsite on clean crack you should come and send caboose! I'll be heading down around 4:30, gimme a call.

And since you have read the squamish 70s thread you should know that tami noted the would aid and clean line on the rain days and then free them when the weather was fit.

-luke
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 29, 2011 - 11:59am PT
how deliciously appropriate that meares island is now thick with alder!

Meares island was a reference to the battle for Clayquot sound between Loggers, Mac blo and the Government on one side and Greenpeace, hippies and grandmothers on the other. The malamute Meares Island held mature timber at one time. Chief could shed more light on this as wel as straw line and Loggers are people too.

While you guys are there, see what you can do with a wire brush and saw - those routes are worth bringing back to life!

edit: loggers are people too was long forgotten Tim Auger Aid route (hot Licks) that was revealed through some selective foliage thinning. Its now a really fun 10c but probably needs a little scrub
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Sep 29, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Adam on A Pitch in Time.
Adam on A Pitch in Time.
Credit: NigelSSI

Alex on Sentry Box
Alex on Sentry Box
Credit: NigelSSI

Will on The Zip
Will on The Zip
Credit: NigelSSI

5:50AM Base of the Grand
5:50AM Base of the Grand
Credit: NigelSSI

Dustin popping out at the top of the split pillar.
Dustin popping out at the top of the split pillar.
Credit: NigelSSI

Todd on The Sword
Todd on The Sword
Credit: NigelSSI

Todd on Hypertension
Todd on Hypertension
Credit: NigelSSI

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 29, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
That big flat lump looks like The Table but I can't figger out from which angle. SO I suspect it ISNT the Table. :-)
If it is, not many ascents c'os the descent is totally dodgy. Total fckin choss ; one report said they rapped from a rock bollard on top. Yikes.

As for the Cling PEaches wall - that was Robin Barley who started the excavation of it. Peter and I came along as he was getting into it and scored a couple of the routes. "Agonal" came much later on & we had no part in it.

We used to cross the pond on some logs which had been slung there I think by Robin. There was a ladder attached to the wall - I think from when they were building the railway. That gave the best access to the wall. I named Cider Crack 'cos I like cider ( still do ).

It was 32 years ago we did those routes so my memories of them are foggy. I do remember Peter leading Old Style with sox over his EB's c'os the route was wet & he'd heard that Joe Brown - the British climber - donned sox to climb wet routes. haha.

As for adding bolts to stations ? It's always controversial to add bolts to anything for any reason. But this seems - SEEMS - to me to be a good reason. The access to the crag from the tracks is verboten........and I suggest climbers honour that or risk losing all access to the crag. DOn't f u k k it up for others. Rapping in to a stance seems like a good idea but only if there IS NO NATURAL PRO.

Too often bolts go next to cracks for convenience. Better to put in gear.

Just my 2c.

You guys can PM me through my ST acc't if you wish.

And Luke ? The history of the Acadians is very well documented and you, as a Cormier, prolly can find a ton by checking out some of the genealogy sites. I know the PEI Acadians got there after the deportations in 1755 but they were further deported around 1780( Doing this from memory here so not sure of the date ). 700 were lost at sea when 2 ships sank enroute to France. Look up Acadiens & Ile St-Jean and you'll find a ton of really interesting - and often sad - stories about your ancestors. You are, by the way, prolly a distant cousin of my own kids . My ex was Quebecker of Acadian descent. Different name then yers.....
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 30, 2011 - 10:56am PT
Tami, good call I'll toss in a couple SLCDs, easy peezy. I've never rappelled into a gear anchor before so the thought didn't cross my mind.
And BTW that is The Table as seen from Brohm ridge


Bruce- Thanks for the story about Meares Island naming, who won the battle?

Nigel- Sweet pics thanks for sharing, what were you guys sending that required such an early start?
Here's some phots of the notorious climbing message board lurker Kyle Korrol;
Joe on Kyles Crack
Joe on Kyles Crack
Credit: thekidcormier
Kyle Climbing BOP, OnSight
Kyle Climbing BOP, OnSight
Credit: thekidcormier

P.s. Tami you are well educated on acadian history...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 11:50am PT
The hippies won the War in Clayquot and if you are a recent transplant you may not be aware that exactly the same war and result occurred here in squamish, in the upper Elaho. This was a mere 15 years or so ago and the beginning of the end for squamish as a full tilt boogie red neck blue collar town. Now all the big logging shows, saw mills, pulp mills, bc rail ops, etc have left town with the resulting cataclysmic demographic change you see today.

I say cataclysmic as an entire long lasting and proud bunch of people got the shitty end of the stick, as so often happens under such rapid change. I generaly think change has been largely for the best but you may notice that some locals disagree, judging by some letter to the editor in the local rag! To a degree you can hardly blame them as thier sweet big bucks jobs have gone the way of the dodo, replaced with Walmart and Home depot. Anyway, logging pretty much built this place and this history can be seen in the nomenclature of some routes here, like Astro logger or Strawline.... funny how they're all Beckham routes!

Interestingly enough, Blackcomb mountain at one time had most of its ski runs named with various logging terms, then the bloody marketing freaks decided to disneyfy the place and started renaming everything with more palatable language that city folk can groove on. Apparently "Hooker" was just a little too racy for them. Thats what you get when a bunch of money crunchers with no history run the show.
Timmc

climber
BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
Bruce, I reckon the Natives and the good folks of BC won that battle. The war still rages.
Ya, the environmentalists (hippies?) looked good in the news, as did the Raging Grannies, but most of them were from the universities in the city. Same with Carmannah, Tsitika, etc.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 30, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
Tim, i totaly agree. those were mere battles really and it remains to be seen who wins the war.
I'm not being derogatory in my use of hippies, quite the contrary. In fact I suggest that if the blue collar community had actually joined forces with the greenies things may have turned out more favorably for them. Its all about power and maybe winning those battles was nothing but a divide and conquer loss.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 30, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
Bruce beat me to it ; I was gonna post that the hippies won the battle but lost the war. But we all have lost that war what with the Wall St banksters and their Ponzi scheme economics.

It's funny to read Bruce's note and consider that some folks don't know about Meares Island. Recently I was talking at work - I teach kids - about 911 and one of the kids said "what's that?" and I gave a brief explanation of airplanes and buildings and the child had never heard of the event. The kid was about 10 or 11 years old. Not old enough to remember but.......you know.....figger someone would have told the creature....

As for rapping into a gear anchor - if there is gear then do it ! It's easy. Put in the station and clip on in. Good quality commitment in a rap-in ! :-D

IT's really too bad the train authorities had to shut down all climbing on the lower Malemute. I mean, it's understandable really - lots of folks wandering around on the tracks would make me nervous if I was drivin' one of them big engines. Gnarly. Remember the great pic Kevin McLane took of the Fish on Clean Crack with the Royal Hudson going by? Both those things are gone now, eh?


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