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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sick photos everybody!
@Relic, doesn't the shadow go at 5.13 if you link the first pitch into it, or something like that??
eatting mcdicks with a piton, hilarious!
-Jeremy Frimers newest route, Flex Capacitor
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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This thread is looking a bit too serious - time to stop for a cold one:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
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Jim I saw Sprock reply to something with more than three lines the other day and I was shocked! :)
Bruce- Nice story about spotting.. I thought someone might say something when i was going through the photos... :)
Spotting is important though. I had a buddy spot me on Charlotte's Web this year at Chek, and I said "Oh no don't worry i've climbed this a million times" but he spotted me anyways and I slipped on a wet patch and peeled before the first bolt and landed on his foot. He kept me from falling down the slope there and I was fine... So was his foot but it hurt for awhile! Thanks Rick!
Hmm... Photo?
This is my buddy Josh working Gom Jabbar 13b at Chek. Lurker Kyle belays.
JoshGomJabbarm by bigmike1974, on Flickr
NigelSSI what does Cutting Edge go at v3-v4?
The Chief in the winter
YetAnotherDave- You are absolutely correct. I just cracked a Blue Buck to join you. Let's celebrate with another photo.
Josh on Gom Jabbar again.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Has anyone repeated Peter's onsight of what for most is the second pitch of University Wall, also sometimes called (rather confusingly) part of "The Shadow"? Did Devin, when he did the first repeat?
Noting that University Wall starts from the ground, below the Flake ledge, and climbs big bushy corners to where people usually start the climb now, perhaps 200 m off the ground. Possibly no one has ever truly repeated all of U Wall.
I wonder how many bolts are now in the route? IIRC, Glenn, Tim, Dan and Hamie (two post here) used only about ten in 1966.
(Peter and Greg freed U Wall, with variations on two pitches. Then Peter returned and freed the original line - two pitches out of fifteen - and wants to call it the Shadow? Am I the only one who finds that confusing?)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Anders, I'm no expert on route history, but what I understand the original line(or original free line)deeks out left from the main corner right before what P.C. named the shadow. If you take a close look at the picture I posted on Seasoned in the Sun(thanks for the sweet line BTW) there is a wooden belay seat out left of the main dihedral, under 'the wide flake', being the way that most free climb it, from what I gather.
@SAC, what is the deal with reposting my pic of the flex capacitor, 'HMMMMMM??' whats your beef?
@Yetanotherdave, epic looking bivy!
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Big Mike, The Cutting Edge is given V4, although I heard a hold recently broke making it a bit harder. I didn't hop on it this year, so I can't verify that.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Great thread! Loving it!!
KC.... oh, nevermind.
A.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Cutting Edge was V4 but, is now V5/6 with the broken hold along the traverse. It looks like Big Mikes pic was taken pre-broken hold.
@thekidcormier Ya looks like that is what Kevin printed in his "guidebook".
Does anyone else think McLane's guidebooks are getting worse and worse? His pictures with line drawings of routes are horrible IMO.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2011 - 04:20am PT
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NigelSSI and Relic. Thanks for the info! Pic was taken circa 2009. I have very little beta about bouldering. I really should do more.
Relic-
Does anyone else think McLane's guidebooks are getting worse and worse? His pictures with line drawings of routes are horrible IMO.
Ya. His new Western Select has good pictures but suffers from a lack of descriptions for the climbs. I understand it is a select and he is trying to pack alot of climbs in, but his earlier books usually had very good descriptions.
I think I might know who you are.. does this climb look familiar?
Marc Leclerc on a 11+ 12 slab route by a renowned local slab developer. :)
Anders! I have been hoping you would see my humble thread.. How is your history project coming along? I have video cameras and the experience to operate them, plus some time coming up this winter. PM me and maybe we can figure something out.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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No Mike, that slab doesn't ring a bell. Ask Henkel, he might know somethin ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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How did you like Astro Ledge? That thing scared the crap outta me the first time going across. I remember this old, weathered fixed rope that was rigged up at one of the more exposed sections of the crumbly ledge. The wall kinda buldged out there, threatening to turf you off hundreds of feet to the base of the North Walls. Looking at this crap rope that dangled over the void, I was wondering, "is this thing supposed to save me?"
I'm glad the North Walls are having new routes put up on it. So many sick lines on it, and lots of potential for more.
I'd love to see some old pictures of Atkinson, Hart, Beckham, etc. up there in the eighties.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Astro LEdge rules! I heard work of someone developing a 5.9 route all the way up the north walls, called air guitar or something like that. has any one got info on it?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks Tami, ya I've seen Perry post quite a lot. He has an amazing thread on the second free ascent of University Wall on taco somewhere.
We were heading to the North Walls today but got blocked at the start of the forest service road. There was a police barricade up, and a cop yelling at us to "get the hell out of here". Found out later someone got murdered and they dumped the body on the forest service road that heads past the North Walls, Squaw, and all that stuff. Spooky.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ya I know Tami. It was the big story on the 6 o'clock news on TV. But I was scampering around the Grand Wall boulders and missed it. Should be on at 11.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Pre-North Walls exploits :: Dean Hart
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Before North Walls :: Randy Atkinson
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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sadly in the 80's things were very disfunctional ... fashion wise, I dont like posting my North Walls pictures from the 80's
Running it out, off of the belay,
working the FA ...
Edit:
Route = Vision Quest, near "Public Image"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha sweet, is that the enduro corner? It's hard to tell but it looks like it. Prettiest corner in Squamish.
Edit. Visionquest thanks. Looks so clean. Any shots of them groveling up Public Image?
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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I didnt take a camera on Public image, and bummed to have not been in on the eventual FA of it as well after helping to prep the route.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!