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Messages 3981 - 4000 of total 8031 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:09am PT
Hey Anders, if you are talking to the 10-years-after guys, don't forget to grill them about RC.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:36am PT
Sounds good. Mrs. Wayno has approved. Boris will dig it.

Luke, are you going with BmacD to sniff out our distant cousins? Use the Force. Watch the Star Wars movie with Yoda and forget whatever you already know and think with your heart and you shall find what you seek. Just remember, that if it stinks, you are getting close.;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:51am PT
Don't worry about getting tooled on the way down, I find the Canadian border guards are usually bigger dicks when coming home for some reason, at least that was my thought when they were ripping my car apart one time after a trip to red rocks for no reason.

On the way down last month the US guy was petting my dog :-)
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:50am PT

Mighty-did you get that ancient wooden wedge I left for you with Tom??
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 6, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
We may be LIGHT but I have never flown anywhere on a climbing trip, so I'm excited. It's turning out to be surprisingly cheap and easy thanks to Wayno and Ghost offering to help. Staying down there will be sweet the night before, thanks Wayno.

I've never been tooled hard at the Peace Arch, not too worried. The only tooling I think we will feel is by check-in baggage clerks, a vicious bunch they are. Oh and of course, the Park Rangers... they been toolin' me there every chance they get.





RyanD, haha yup. When you are wondering where Relic has disappeared to, odds are I'll be in the C4 boulders or Buttermilks!
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 6, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
So who was that on Negro Lesbian the other day? Finish or bail?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Sorry Nick, we sidetracked a perfectly good Squamish thread with all this valley talk.... Oh well, we still need another 1008 messages to reach Rolf's prophecy anyways!

Thanks for the hospitality Wayno and the offer Dave! That's huge! Good thing I managed to get you out cragging eh Wayne? ;)

So who was on Negro Lesbian? Post up!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
I snuck out work yesterday to check the progress on NL. Our unidentified friend was back at the belay he was seen trying to fix from the night prior and appeared as tho he was preparing to RETREAT!

Who ever you are: post up.

Speaking of which I might as well link my report of my solo on strange brew(a.k.a. Light weight lane) http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/

Wayno: I'm not going with Bruce. Hahah he only wants to take pictures of their foot prints I wanna shoot one and make a nice one piece suite :D
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
All good Mike, stoke is stoke is stoke. I love the Valley, can't wait to hear your stories. Do Central Pillar of Frenzy, you'll have a blast.

I'd like to see how they retreated from where they were. I only went and looked at night, but it seemed they were past they point of an easy descent.

Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 6, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
I wanna shoot one and make a nice one piece suite

You'd look better in a two piece, Lukey.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
http://browniephoto.com/blog/2012/10/summer-of-rock/
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
My pick for Yos routes for Mike'n'Luke to do is ARROWHEAD ARETE and , for the descent, hike to the valley rim and descend the Falls trail.

Might not quite have the crowds that Snake Dike has.......

Safe trip boys !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
It didnít sound like my voice but I figured it must have been me as I watched singular crystals of granite join and smear into streaks, and calmly observed my acceleration. It was quite interesting really; quiet yet violent, and as elegant as a ballet dancer gravity slipped itís tendrils around me and pulled. I became aware that I was in fact falling and that I had been for a while, when suddenly the static reality I have come to know over the years returned. I looked down to find Nathan a few meters below me....

Sick writeup Kieran!! Thanks!

Tami- Unfortunately I don't forsee myself climbing much with Luke, as he is an aids climber these days. He will be up on the captain with bigwall Doug while Relic I and entertain Aislin.... She certainly seems happy to have someone to climb with rather than sit in the valley by herself all week.

While three is often a crowd, it's a great number to free up the cameraman!!
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
That was me on Negro Lesbian.Not much to say other than it beat me down! Couldn't get past a section of heads through the roof of the 4th pitch. Blew out a small circlehead and took a big lob in the dark. Thank god for screamers is all I can say...Tried it again the next day but I was rattled and my heading skills weren't good enough to get anything to stick Didn't have anything to remove the fixed mank with either.It's a great route though, pretty cool to be swinging around in those roofs. Be sure to bringa hand drill and butterknife if you want to go for it, I had to re drill some blown out batholes at the top of the 3rd . I'll be back for it after a bit more experience....

P.s Fish Boy, I owe you beer... Give me a shout with when and where I can settle the debt! Will be around Squamish until mid next week.

P.p.s rapping from the top of the 3rd is okay. You hit the slab about 4m right of the anchors at the top of the 2nd. Then there's a bolted rap station about 50m straight down from the anchor at the top of the 2nd. Rapping through those trees with a haulbag was so miserable it was kind of fun...
The Call Of K2 Lou

climber
Squamish
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
Four thousand (mostly on topic) posts. Too cool. Keep 'em coming!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
Nice work Paul! Thanks for the report, and the bump. I'll take # 4000!!!!! Only one thousand more people! ;)

Edit Lou beat me to it! Nice work! :)
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
I knew it was you up there Paul! Did you see me creeping? Nice try dude, you made it higher then me and fishboy have so far. Pretty late start on Thursday night eh?

You're developing a reputation for blowing out copper heads..

Good on ya for trying tho. Does any one know it it's been successfully solo'd before?

P.S. epic blog post kieran.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Thought I saw a couple of people playing the "flash the torch" game alright! Yeah, late start on the 4th because I screwed up a bit at the top of the 3rd.got to within one bathole of the anchors then the very last one was blown out and I'd forgotten the drill at the bag. Had to back aid the roof, rap down, get the drill, jug up, re aid the roof and fix the hole. Lost a lot of time.Underestimated the 4th as it was so short. One tip for the top of the 3rd, look for hidden rivets....Managed to miss it and traverse about 30 feet left to some old fixed gear at the edge of the roof and pop an old angle.All in all a failure, but an exciting failure and a lot learned.

As for heads....I hate the little buggers! They lure you in, hold for long enough for you to start thinking about the next piece, then BOOM and you're airborne! Bastards.... You guys heading to the valley soon? I'm driving down there from squam next week.Would be nice to put some faces to names after lurking this thread so much!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 12:39am PT
Ya Paul,

We will be there this weekend!!!


WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOO!!!

SEE YA IN THE DITCH!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:30am PT
So Luke, are you going to the Valley or hunting for bigfoot? Do you still need the ...?
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