Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Nice work Paul! Thanks for the report, and the bump. I'll take # 4000!!!!! Only one thousand more people! ;)
Edit Lou beat me to it! Nice work! :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I knew it was you up there Paul! Did you see me creeping? Nice try dude, you made it higher then me and fishboy have so far. Pretty late start on Thursday night eh?
You're developing a reputation for blowing out copper heads..
Good on ya for trying tho. Does any one know it it's been successfully solo'd before?
P.S. epic blog post kieran.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Thought I saw a couple of people playing the "flash the torch" game alright! Yeah, late start on the 4th because I screwed up a bit at the top of the 3rd.got to within one bathole of the anchors then the very last one was blown out and I'd forgotten the drill at the bag. Had to back aid the roof, rap down, get the drill, jug up, re aid the roof and fix the hole. Lost a lot of time.Underestimated the 4th as it was so short. One tip for the top of the 3rd, look for hidden rivets....Managed to miss it and traverse about 30 feet left to some old fixed gear at the edge of the roof and pop an old angle.All in all a failure, but an exciting failure and a lot learned.
As for heads....I hate the little buggers! They lure you in, hold for long enough for you to start thinking about the next piece, then BOOM and you're airborne! Bastards.... You guys heading to the valley soon? I'm driving down there from squam next week.Would be nice to put some faces to names after lurking this thread so much!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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Ya Paul,
We will be there this weekend!!!
WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOO!!!
SEE YA IN THE DITCH!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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So Luke, are you going to the Valley or hunting for bigfoot? Do you still need the ...?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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"Flight is lite. Go Greyhound!"
Kids these days.
After you warm up on Bishop's Terrace, a classic which Aislin will enjoy, head over to Church Bowl Terrace [not so classic], if it's still in the book. Full TR with pix required.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Flight is lite. Go Greyhound
HAMISH!!! Get INTO this Century !!!
Flight is RIGHT
Don't LOSE YER HEAD on the Hound!!!!!!
<end tasteless un-joke>
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Hey Paul, rad work! I've been looking at Negro Lesbian as the wall I really want to do for a year now. Luke and I bailed thanks to snow and perhaps too much sh#t. I'd jump back on it in a flash.
Monday night we should go to my mates spot down near the river. There are three other Irish lads too....we'll be in touch, wanna hear about those roof pitches....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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Hamie- Would you rather sit on a bus/honda fit? or climb?? I know which one I want to do... Hell maybe i'll get some cool dingus style pics!
Full TR with pix required. Duh.. was thinking I might get a few out of this trip!! Maybe even get an Iphone so I can do updates from the ditch!
Don't LOSE YER HEAD on the Hound!!!!!!
HAHAHHAHAHAHA... ROFLOL (rolling on floor laughing out loud!)
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gf
climber
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mike
its only a 21 hr drive to the valley and then you have a CAR to get around in -WAY better bet -i've flown down a few times and its inefficient
g
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Yes wayno, I still NEED the...!!!!
I'll email you some details
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MH2
climber
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Good wishes on the trip south! A car and/or a bike are good to have in The Park but can be done without.
Hey, Anders, interview me. I'm a 60s-era climber. Recently, too. 1964 to be specific.
We saw a light up on the wall on the trek back to the car that was probably Paul B.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Mike - what greg says. Sub 24c hours if you engineer your interior for a bunk so you can spell off driving every few hours while your bud snoozes or reads or in this era, blogs. Anyway having wheels when you're down there is the only way especially if the weather goes sideways or the camp 4 scene gets moldy. Tuolomne is perfect right now. zero crowds and perfect temps but you need wheels to camp out of tioga lake.
anyuway have an awesome trip. go do the rostrum. the 11c fingers is the same as exasperator and the rest of it is straight ahead 5.9 to 5.10 jamming with good gear and it is 4 stars easy. Nice and shady too.
also go do third pillar of ?Dana for absolute sure. Steal a car if you have to
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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I got us a cheap deal on a rental car so all is well. I used to love driving down there but now I'm old and cranky.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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go do the rostrum. the 11c fingers is the same as exasperator and the rest of it is straight ahead 5.9 to 5.10 jamming with good gear and it is 4 stars easy. Nice and shady too.
........and 5.10ow as it's last pitch if yer not gonna do the roof.......
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Tami
"Go Greyhound, for that 'head' start".
It should take less than a week each way. After resting up for a while, you will have at least one full day to enjoy the sights in the valley, and take some pix, before heading home. A big advantage of bus travel is that you won't need to drag all that climbing junk down there with you.
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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You can lieback the last pitch that avoids the roof on the Rostrum at 5.9
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Ooooohhhh... The Rostrum..... I'm skeeerd! ;) Well, Perry did say I've already climbed a mini version of it.... Sounds like fun! Freeclimbing will definitely be the focus but I'll be bringing the pocket etrier just in case....
Arrowhead looks cool! I dunno if I can convince Relic to walk that far, maybe me and Ais will ditch him at the camp 4 boulders that day ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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The looming cliffs of the Valley can seem like a prison if you don't make it to the rim. Get that out of the way first and your whole perspective will be more complete. The long routes to the rim are some of the best things that the Valley has to offer. the less time on the floor, the better. Live Upfull.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Hate to be a downer but if you can, get 'er done before Friday - and that may go for the valley as well Mike and Relic. Keep your road options open!
http://wxmaps.org/pix/avnmr.144hr.html
anyhoo..... defy the hoards and go to tuolumne for at least a few days
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