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Messages 4001 - 4020 of total 8031 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:55am PT
"Flight is lite. Go Greyhound!"
Kids these days.

After you warm up on Bishop's Terrace, a classic which Aislin will enjoy, head over to Church Bowl Terrace [not so classic], if it's still in the book. Full TR with pix required.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:59am PT
Flight is lite. Go Greyhound

HAMISH!!! Get INTO this Century !!!


Flight is RIGHT
Don't LOSE YER HEAD on the Hound!!!!!!








<end tasteless un-joke>
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 7, 2012 - 02:22am PT
Hey Paul, rad work! I've been looking at Negro Lesbian as the wall I really want to do for a year now. Luke and I bailed thanks to snow and perhaps too much sh#t. I'd jump back on it in a flash.

Monday night we should go to my mates spot down near the river. There are three other Irish lads too....we'll be in touch, wanna hear about those roof pitches....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:27am PT
Hamie- Would you rather sit on a bus/honda fit? or climb?? I know which one I want to do... Hell maybe i'll get some cool dingus style pics!

Full TR with pix required.
Duh.. was thinking I might get a few out of this trip!! Maybe even get an Iphone so I can do updates from the ditch!


Don't LOSE YER HEAD on the Hound!!!!!!


HAHAHHAHAHAHA... ROFLOL (rolling on floor laughing out loud!)
gf

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:04am PT
mike
its only a 21 hr drive to the valley and then you have a CAR to get around in -WAY better bet -i've flown down a few times and its inefficient
g
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:08am PT
Yes wayno, I still NEED the...!!!!

I'll email you some details
MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Good wishes on the trip south! A car and/or a bike are good to have in The Park but can be done without.



Hey, Anders, interview me. I'm a 60s-era climber. Recently, too. 1964 to be specific.






We saw a light up on the wall on the trek back to the car that was probably Paul B.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:30am PT
Mike - what greg says. Sub 24c hours if you engineer your interior for a bunk so you can spell off driving every few hours while your bud snoozes or reads or in this era, blogs. Anyway having wheels when you're down there is the only way especially if the weather goes sideways or the camp 4 scene gets moldy. Tuolomne is perfect right now. zero crowds and perfect temps but you need wheels to camp out of tioga lake.

anyuway have an awesome trip. go do the rostrum. the 11c fingers is the same as exasperator and the rest of it is straight ahead 5.9 to 5.10 jamming with good gear and it is 4 stars easy. Nice and shady too.

also go do third pillar of ?Dana for absolute sure. Steal a car if you have to
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
I got us a cheap deal on a rental car so all is well. I used to love driving down there but now I'm old and cranky.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
go do the rostrum. the 11c fingers is the same as exasperator and the rest of it is straight ahead 5.9 to 5.10 jamming with good gear and it is 4 stars easy. Nice and shady too.


........and 5.10ow as it's last pitch if yer not gonna do the roof.......
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Hey Tami
"Go Greyhound, for that 'head' start".

It should take less than a week each way. After resting up for a while, you will have at least one full day to enjoy the sights in the valley, and take some pix, before heading home. A big advantage of bus travel is that you won't need to drag all that climbing junk down there with you.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
You can lieback the last pitch that avoids the roof on the Rostrum at 5.9
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Ooooohhhh... The Rostrum..... I'm skeeerd! ;) Well, Perry did say I've already climbed a mini version of it.... Sounds like fun! Freeclimbing will definitely be the focus but I'll be bringing the pocket etrier just in case....

Arrowhead looks cool! I dunno if I can convince Relic to walk that far, maybe me and Ais will ditch him at the camp 4 boulders that day ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
The looming cliffs of the Valley can seem like a prison if you don't make it to the rim. Get that out of the way first and your whole perspective will be more complete. The long routes to the rim are some of the best things that the Valley has to offer. the less time on the floor, the better. Live Upfull.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 7, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
Hate to be a downer but if you can, get 'er done before Friday - and that may go for the valley as well Mike and Relic. Keep your road options open!

http://wxmaps.org/pix/avnmr.144hr.html


anyhoo..... defy the hoards and go to tuolumne for at least a few days

go up that little valley for an hour and bingo - third pillar of Dana
go up that little valley for an hour and bingo - third pillar of Dana
Credit: Bruce Kay

crag and swim
crag and swim
Credit: Bruce Kay

a good combo is OZ in the shade then The Lamb Traverse, a 2 pitch stra...
a good combo is OZ in the shade then The Lamb Traverse, a 2 pitch straight sideways perfect rail, then another swim of course
Credit: Bruce Kay
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Well we don't leave till Friday so not much chance of that... Hackuweather forecast looks promising, but who knows. We do have a car with unlimited miles on it. Maybe we'll go visit cosmic in josh if things turn for the worse... Thanks for the pics, looks awesome!! I have to get you your shoes back sir. I'll send you a pm and try to get it done before we leave.

Andy- What is that climb!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 7, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
not til friday? talk about perfect timing. Like a rat leaving a sinking ship. It actually looks like that little bit of weather will be clear of the valley by then too. Drop the shoes off on your way through and i'll give you some good beta in exchange
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Ya I saw that it looks like it's taking a turn for the worse around here.... I love it when a good plan comes together!

Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 7, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Anyone here enjoy checking out the waterfalls around Squamish? A mate and I found the Upper Mamquam falls yesterday and they were stunning! I've been looking on the world waterfall database and there are several falls around here there are worth exploring. Some nice ones on the Skookum, Ring Creek etc...
MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
The route in the picture is intended to be the North North Arete. It is hard to be sure that you are on that route until the very last pitch. I'd done it before but that didn't help. However, the description in McLane 2005 mentions a yew tree, which I believe is the tree the rope runs past.

That was the first and last time we felt pretty sure we were on the climb.

We had gone up Parallel Passages to Astro Ledge and met Paul Cordy. When he heard we were planning to do North North Arete, he recommended an alternate finish.

Just above the yew tree we left North North Arete, if that is what we were on, and found the variation Paul had suggested.




(photo courtesy of Andy Traslin)







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