We planned a long weekend in Squamish not knowing that we’d be celebrating BC Day. We need to have BC Day in Tacoma... We did a bunch of relatively new (for me) routes in stellar August weather, especially for Squamish. On Friday at 2 p.m. we held number 3 in the queue for Skywlaker. Despite the line, it was fun, with a casual approach that should take some of the pressure off of Diedre. Saturday had temps in the 90s (32°C) so we headed for Europa, a 7-pitch, alpine-flavored, tragically misunderstood route. Yeah it was a bit loose in places but the setting was great and there were no crowds. If it was an alpine route in the Cascades it would probably see more ascents, espeically on a 3-day weekend. Sunday, with more high temps, we played on the Apron with Rambles and Over the Rainbow. We ended the trip with a drive up the Cheakamus R. Canyon and had a blast on Star Check Aręte, 5.9 (one well protected move). Great trip to a great place
We both grinned like this the whole route
Credit: Scraptee
Anyone know this Vancouverite who was in the party ahead of us. I was going to send him some photos.
Hi Scraptee! I'm the guy who soloed past you on Skywalker, then met you again up on Bellygood just as you were topping out (I had just gotten off the Grand) and then ran into you once more in the liquor store.
Nice meeting you, and glad you enjoyed your time here!
Everybody should climb Cerberus ! The thin flakes are truly thin but at the lowest angle part of the climb and a little care is all you need. Cerberus is REALLY GOOD climbing.
Scraptree: Good to read your positive impression of Europa/Crap Crags. It has always been a "tragically misunderstood route." Misunderstood and slagged mostly by those who have never done it!
MH2:
Pic #1. Are both climbers clipped to a single Fixe rap hanger?
Pic #2. Setting the cam, or a little French Free? :-)
Nice selection of pix.
Crap Crags ought to have been one of the most popular long routes at Squamish.
I know I've said this before, but I never understood why there weren't
line-ups for it.
Wow! So many awesome photos, and stories! Thanks to all for contributing. MH2 it was nice to meet you for a brief moment yesterday. If you had shown up 5 min earlier you could have seen me screaming & whipping off the top of crime! After you left i realized i wanted to tell you how much i enjoy your photos, only to see a bunch more here now! So much climbing happening in Squamish these days & so many awesome posts with awesome photos from recent to this thread from many. Amazing!
I'll add a few from Sunday when me & my friend Josh & i had planned to go check out this 3 star route called planet caravan. Well we got about 1 pitch up which was one of the more stressful warmups i've done, weird smearing with no handholds up a groove past 4 bolts at which time a crack sort of appears under the few inches of needles & grime. After digging my way up this pitch with my nut tool we had a peek at the next which looked like a bolt ladder to some runout slab climbing on black lichen coated granite. We decided that maybe heading back to the forest & getting on something a little more brazilian would be a good way to worship at the temple on this fine day of the lord. The upper part of this route looked amazing & i think it is likely of high quality but it seemed as though it hadn't been climbed this year or maybe even last year. We cleaned up most of the holds & placements on the first pitch which was really cool climbing but just a tad too filthy. There is also some major treed ledges above which could contribute to the excess needles on this route. Anyone (scrubber?) know anything about how clean the upper pitches are on this?
pitch 1 planet caravan
Credit: RyanD
So we headed over to liquid gold. Here's some belayer taken butt shots with an iphone for all you photogs who will obviously be curious as to what kind of glass i've got :-) This is a mega route that deserves classic status, go do it. We did some newly scrubbed fingercrackish variation to the left of the p3 chimney, anyone have info?
Liquid Gold pitch 1
Credit: RyanD
Liquid Gold pitch 2
Credit: RyanD
Liquid Gold pitch 3 left variation
Credit: RyanD
Liquid gold pitch 4 ***
Credit: RyanD
Topping out Liquid Gold
Credit: RyanD
Cerberus looks wild, here's a view of it from crescent tower. Marc Andre & a lady who he was swinging leads with can be seen heading up the dykes.
Cerberus with Eurasian Eyes in the background.
Credit: RyanD
Speaking of Star cheak anyone here know anything about an accident/rescue down there? I saw emergency vehicles parked at the top the other day & it looked like they were organizing/executing a rescue near the spot where the climb tops out.
Wow is right! A party, another couple lurkers, another beautiful post from mh2, ryand throwing his hat into the ring too! Haven't got a chance to peep the pics yet since im on my phone but looking forward to it.
Europa is on the list, maybe soon? Hmm....
Got a quick run up Banana Peel in with Sandra last night. Simul went well, it was good training for ultimate this weekend.
Stoked to see everyone on the 8th and meet some of you who i have not had a chance to meet!
Let us know!