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Messages 3601 - 3620 of total 7955 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 21, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
I'll cater some salmon and a BBQ as long as no one wants to kill me with a death tray...

TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Aug 21, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
Hi Scraptee! I'm the guy who soloed past you on Skywalker, then met you again up on Bellygood just as you were topping out (I had just gotten off the Grand) and then ran into you once more in the liquor store.
Nice meeting you, and glad you enjoyed your time here!
MH2

climber
Aug 21, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Death by tray it shall be.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 21, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
How did I earn such betrayal ?
MH2

climber
Aug 21, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
Ask Jeff Vader.
MH2

climber
Aug 22, 2012 - 12:34am PT
Great thread. Thanks to all who post.

I saw RyanD at the Bluffs today.

Some of what I've been out to lately:


A few minutes before dropping a shoe most of the way down Unfinished Symphony





Quercus-ing (first photo below mislabeled as 31 Aug, should be 31 July)









A few hours before almost dropping Michael from the top of Black Dyke





The last time I did this route was with Sig Isaac and John Rosholt





A sport area left behind by an advanced civilization





Old friends from Seattle met doing Hard On







Hanger-less bolt at the top of p1 Genius Loci





At play in the boulders







Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 22, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Andy,

I'm guessing pic 6 is from Cerberus.

Everybody should climb Cerberus ! The thin flakes are truly thin but at the lowest angle part of the climb and a little care is all you need. Cerberus is REALLY GOOD climbing.
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Aug 22, 2012 - 01:53am PT
Jim,
Pic 6 is me on Agonal ;)

If you would like to see Cerberus pics, I have dozens (and dozens).
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Aug 22, 2012 - 02:02am PT
Here, Cerberus...

Photo taken from Malamute by Andy C (MH2)


Also taken by Andy (from the belay this time)
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Aug 22, 2012 - 02:57am PT
Scraptree: Good to read your positive impression of Europa/Crap Crags. It has always been a "tragically misunderstood route." Misunderstood and slagged mostly by those who have never done it!

MH2:
Pic #1. Are both climbers clipped to a single Fixe rap hanger?
Pic #2. Setting the cam, or a little French Free? :-)
Nice selection of pix.
MH2

climber
Aug 22, 2012 - 10:33am PT
Hamie,


2 bolts in use in #1, one out of view


No weighting of the cam in #2


I guess you recognize Crap Crags/Europa in #5?
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Aug 22, 2012 - 11:12am PT
MH2: That's one scarey chockstone [?] in #5!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 22, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Crap Crags ought to have been one of the most popular long routes at Squamish.
I know I've said this before, but I never understood why there weren't
line-ups for it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 22, 2012 - 11:37am PT
Wow! So many awesome photos, and stories! Thanks to all for contributing. MH2 it was nice to meet you for a brief moment yesterday. If you had shown up 5 min earlier you could have seen me screaming & whipping off the top of crime! After you left i realized i wanted to tell you how much i enjoy your photos, only to see a bunch more here now! So much climbing happening in Squamish these days & so many awesome posts with awesome photos from recent to this thread from many. Amazing!

I'll add a few from Sunday when me & my friend Josh & i had planned to go check out this 3 star route called planet caravan. Well we got about 1 pitch up which was one of the more stressful warmups i've done, weird smearing with no handholds up a groove past 4 bolts at which time a crack sort of appears under the few inches of needles & grime. After digging my way up this pitch with my nut tool we had a peek at the next which looked like a bolt ladder to some runout slab climbing on black lichen coated granite. We decided that maybe heading back to the forest & getting on something a little more brazilian would be a good way to worship at the temple on this fine day of the lord. The upper part of this route looked amazing & i think it is likely of high quality but it seemed as though it hadn't been climbed this year or maybe even last year. We cleaned up most of the holds & placements on the first pitch which was really cool climbing but just a tad too filthy. There is also some major treed ledges above which could contribute to the excess needles on this route. Anyone (scrubber?) know anything about how clean the upper pitches are on this?

pitch 1 planet caravan
pitch 1 planet caravan
Credit: RyanD

So we headed over to liquid gold. Here's some belayer taken butt shots with an iphone for all you photogs who will obviously be curious as to what kind of glass i've got :-) This is a mega route that deserves classic status, go do it. We did some newly scrubbed fingercrackish variation to the left of the p3 chimney, anyone have info?


Liquid Gold pitch 1
Liquid Gold pitch 1
Credit: RyanD

Liquid Gold pitch 2
Liquid Gold pitch 2
Credit: RyanD

Liquid Gold pitch 3 left variation
Liquid Gold pitch 3 left variation
Credit: RyanD

Liquid gold pitch 4 ***
Liquid gold pitch 4 ***
Credit: RyanD

Topping out Liquid Gold
Topping out Liquid Gold
Credit: RyanD



Cerberus looks wild, here's a view of it from crescent tower. Marc Andre & a lady who he was swinging leads with can be seen heading up the dykes.

Cerberus with Eurasian Eyes in the background.
Cerberus with Eurasian Eyes in the background.
Credit: RyanD


Speaking of Star cheak anyone here know anything about an accident/rescue down there? I saw emergency vehicles parked at the top the other day & it looked like they were organizing/executing a rescue near the spot where the climb tops out.






Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Wow is right! A party, another couple lurkers, another beautiful post from mh2, ryand throwing his hat into the ring too! Haven't got a chance to peep the pics yet since im on my phone but looking forward to it.

Europa is on the list, maybe soon? Hmm....

Got a quick run up Banana Peel in with Sandra last night. Simul went well, it was good training for ultimate this weekend.

Stoked to see everyone on the 8th and meet some of you who i have not had a chance to meet!

Edit: beware the death tray!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 23, 2012 - 01:25am PT
What time do the Chief gatekeepers call it a night?

Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Aug 23, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Led all pitches on The Great Game today...maybe my favourite route I ever done at Squamish?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 23, 2012 - 02:21am PT
Hey Jim i think 10pm?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2012 - 02:40am PT
Ryand- Cool pics! Thanks! I've heard liquid gold is pretty good..

Nick- How was it, i've heard it's pretty sweet. You get a good look at Right Wing??
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Aug 24, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
Nah Mike, ya cant see right wing from there. By the way, I linked pitch 2 into 3 with a 60. Drag was minimal with long slings, and it means you are belaying at bolted anchors the whole time too. I had 2 meters of rope spare.
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