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Messages 3621 - 3640 of total 7747 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
gf

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:04am PT
mike
its only a 21 hr drive to the valley and then you have a CAR to get around in -WAY better bet -i've flown down a few times and its inefficient
g
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:08am PT
Yes wayno, I still NEED the...!!!!

I'll email you some details
MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Good wishes on the trip south! A car and/or a bike are good to have in The Park but can be done without.



Hey, Anders, interview me. I'm a 60s-era climber. Recently, too. 1964 to be specific.






We saw a light up on the wall on the trek back to the car that was probably Paul B.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
I got us a cheap deal on a rental car so all is well. I used to love driving down there but now I'm old and cranky.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
go do the rostrum. the 11c fingers is the same as exasperator and the rest of it is straight ahead 5.9 to 5.10 jamming with good gear and it is 4 stars easy. Nice and shady too.


........and 5.10ow as it's last pitch if yer not gonna do the roof.......
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Hey Tami
"Go Greyhound, for that 'head' start".

It should take less than a week each way. After resting up for a while, you will have at least one full day to enjoy the sights in the valley, and take some pix, before heading home. A big advantage of bus travel is that you won't need to drag all that climbing junk down there with you.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
You can lieback the last pitch that avoids the roof on the Rostrum at 5.9
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Ooooohhhh... The Rostrum..... I'm skeeerd! ;) Well, Perry did say I've already climbed a mini version of it.... Sounds like fun! Freeclimbing will definitely be the focus but I'll be bringing the pocket etrier just in case....

Arrowhead looks cool! I dunno if I can convince Relic to walk that far, maybe me and Ais will ditch him at the camp 4 boulders that day ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
The looming cliffs of the Valley can seem like a prison if you don't make it to the rim. Get that out of the way first and your whole perspective will be more complete. The long routes to the rim are some of the best things that the Valley has to offer. the less time on the floor, the better. Live Upfull.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Well we don't leave till Friday so not much chance of that... Hackuweather forecast looks promising, but who knows. We do have a car with unlimited miles on it. Maybe we'll go visit cosmic in josh if things turn for the worse... Thanks for the pics, looks awesome!! I have to get you your shoes back sir. I'll send you a pm and try to get it done before we leave.

Andy- What is that climb!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Ya I saw that it looks like it's taking a turn for the worse around here.... I love it when a good plan comes together!

Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 7, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Anyone here enjoy checking out the waterfalls around Squamish? A mate and I found the Upper Mamquam falls yesterday and they were stunning! I've been looking on the world waterfall database and there are several falls around here there are worth exploring. Some nice ones on the Skookum, Ring Creek etc...
MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
The route in the picture is intended to be the North North Arete. It is hard to be sure that you are on that route until the very last pitch. I'd done it before but that didn't help. However, the description in McLane 2005 mentions a yew tree, which I believe is the tree the rope runs past.

That was the first and last time we felt pretty sure we were on the climb.

We had gone up Parallel Passages to Astro Ledge and met Paul Cordy. When he heard we were planning to do North North Arete, he recommended an alternate finish.

Just above the yew tree we left North North Arete, if that is what we were on, and found the variation Paul had suggested.




(photo courtesy of Andy Traslin)







thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 7, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 7, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
Well it's good to see that MH2 is getting after it still in Squamish, well done sir. Cool photos!


MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.


And p'rhaps even a tank wouldn't save ya from the rebar. New chapters in the Book of Squamish Stories are being written on the North Walls. Or maybe soon there will be condos for sale?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
How was Parrallel passages Andy??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
North North eh? haven't ventured up that one yet... Damn did that log ever bounce! It's allways handy to have a chainsaw up there eh ;)? Looks like things are happening on the north walls for sure..
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
In the part below Astro Ledge Parallel Passages runs through blasted ground. There is grit and an air of large-scale looseness. Whether from the big rockfall a few years ago or a testament to the huge energy of Paul Cordy, I don't know. I happen to like the battle-zone feel.

Above Astro Ledge, Parallel Passages is a great addition to the North Walls for the 5.10 A0 climber. Has great climbing, a wild feel, and delivers you to the 4th summit.






Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 8, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
Don: Yes, I got the present that you left for me with Tom - he put it in my tent. Thanks!

Glenn: Saw Chris Jones and Alex Bertulis, but not the TYA folk this time.

Andy: Wow! I didn't know you were climbing at Squamish in 1964. How did you deal with the p'terodactyls? Anyway, let me know if you want the original route description for North North Arete - you know you're on route if you go through a "gap" in the arte, with two boulders wedged in, which you sort of chimney around. The second ascent party did the Chlorophyll Variation, and there seem to be others. Staying just left of the 'crest' of the arete is the ticket.
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