Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Good to hear Relic, you won't regret it.
Yeah! I'm liking the 29 inch wheels on the new ones. Just gotta take a demo for a spin, see if I want a large or XL frame.
~~~~PAD PEOPLE ALERT~~~~
Look who I caught today, toting some old school maxi pad for his bum to fall on.
Bike Mike killing his own thread with pictures of pebbles
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markr
Trad climber
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Hey Mike, I wanted to thank you for all your updates, photos and stories. The stoke you convey in your stories has helped me get back out of my comfort zone. A few years ago I decked after some gear ripped, and since then I've had this quiet fear in the back of my mind about going for it when I'm above a piece. I'd still climb, but always seem to find some excuse not to try things above my onsight level or put myself up a route that might be damp, etc.
Anyhow, I had you guys in mind when I decided to go get on Exasperator today, the second pitch of which is right at my limit. Knowing it had been raining, I definitely remembered the way you described Luke when you guys headed up Hanging Gardens and said f*#k it. We both had an amazing experience on that awesome route, (not without some flailing on pitch 2) and I might have just opted to go climb Slot Machine if you never posted.
How did you guys end up toproping Exasperator the other weekend? Did someone have a 40m rope or did you just do the first pitch?
Also thanks for starting this thread, some amazing and stories (Hamish's stories, Jesus...so good) definitely help keep the stoke going during rainy weekends or worky weeks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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markr- Right on man! That is so awesome to hear. Your story really touched me, and I'm glad to have been of some inspiration. Exasperator is a perfect place for a couple whippers. Especially P2 cause it trends right it makes for a super clean fall.
How did we toprope Exasperator? I'll tell you the secret. First of all we had two 70m ropes. You could probably get away with two 60's though any comment Bruce? The best way is to send it in one go from the ground, (without clipping the mid point anchor to make it a fair means ascent is the current style) then bring up your second and have them clean most of the gear except maybe a couple directionals on p2 if you need them. Then rap (with both ropes tied together and clip directionals and p1 anchor with one side on the way down.
After that make sure the knot is at the anchor and it's a simple matter of tying a figure 8 on a bight on the side with the directionals. Then the second clips in alpine style (locker on your tie in loops, locker side out). By the time they reach the anchor the knot will reach the belay and that way you don't have to pass it.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha. I called Big Mike, Bike Mike in my last photo. Must have Stumpjumper on my mind...
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gf
climber
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hey relic -got a link for that 29 er -starting to think about an upgrade.....
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Big Mike - I seem to recall that you can do it with two 55's or 50's possibly? We used to climb with pretty short ropes so shorter than 60 for sure.
Its all a matter of passing the knot without ever taking the person off belay. The way you guys did it was the most fool proof - no knot passing at all. Why didn't we ever think of that?
no worries about the shoes. we'll figure it out later.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I can't believe my eyes...... bike chatter. Great. The other 29er people are liking is the Norco (yes, Norco) Shinobi. Looks very nice indeed.
Watch out.......pretty soon Special Kay will be spotted at the bike store.
Those stumpys are really nice. My wife and I both have Kona Satoris; pretty similar but perhaps a touch more "all-mtn". Tantalus Bike Store for those.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ha. I was downhill riding when you guys were still pooping in diapers. That was back in the day when men were men, and sheep didn't have to be scared because riding without suspension left us unable to... Well, never mind. But seriously, we didn't even have front suspension.
Its all a matter of passing the knot without ever taking the person off belay. The way you guys did it was the most fool proof - no knot passing at all. Why didn't we ever think of that?
One of the very few deaths at Squamish was the result of trying to get a top rope set up on Exasperator. If I remember, it wasn't that they mismanaged the passing of the knot, but rather of forgetting to tie the second rope on in the first place. Very sad day. Be careful up there.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes - a major miscommunication.
How many climbing deaths have there been at Squamish? Not to pour cold water on everyone, but it would be useful to know. I can remember six or seven, but there may have been more.
You can rappel from the end of the second pitch of Exasperator, to the ground, with two 50 m ropes.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And Greg said he'd never worn Lycra tights.
Hah!
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gf
climber
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cotton stretch manpris' baby!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Wow! Finally a proper representation of Peder's work. Thank you mh2! Cool pic of Tim Mcc, and Greg and Hamish on Genus Loci! Amazing! I had to look that one up being that i've never seen it up close before. Very cool.
damn gf's shoes look like Mythos...
I must admit, bouldering was fun yesterday. Not something I see myself pursuing full time or anything but pretty fun.
Just wanted to dispell any notion that there is any purposefull bias towards Trad climbing in this thread. The only bias is that I'm a crack addict so that's what I like to climb and photograph. I don't climb sport very much anymore so I don't get the opportunity to shoot it. There is a place for all things climbing in this thread and I encourage any contributions.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Wow. A picture of Foodeater with hair !!!! :-D hahaahha
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I wasn't kidding when I said we tried to skip the scrubbing.
M.H. would have been proud of us.
Guess that's one more vote for the hip belay.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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That picture makes me want to go and give GL a shot! Maybe by the end of next year I'll be strong enough....
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gf
climber
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If IRC I could have used a gondola to the base of the chief the day Peder took these killer shots. I came straight from work with only my cockaroach squashing spanish leather shoes, with leather outsole. Not so good on the approach march.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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We just wear flip flops now :)
Jugging Exasperator
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