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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Ha. I was downhill riding when you guys were still pooping in diapers. That was back in the day when men were men, and sheep didn't have to be scared because riding without suspension left us unable to... Well, never mind. But seriously, we didn't even have front suspension.
Its all a matter of passing the knot without ever taking the person off belay. The way you guys did it was the most fool proof - no knot passing at all. Why didn't we ever think of that?
One of the very few deaths at Squamish was the result of trying to get a top rope set up on Exasperator. If I remember, it wasn't that they mismanaged the passing of the knot, but rather of forgetting to tie the second rope on in the first place. Very sad day. Be careful up there.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes - a major miscommunication.
How many climbing deaths have there been at Squamish? Not to pour cold water on everyone, but it would be useful to know. I can remember six or seven, but there may have been more.
You can rappel from the end of the second pitch of Exasperator, to the ground, with two 50 m ropes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Well there's, Grace Wong (rope cut on edge of pan while jugging), The most recent one was the gentleman who took a practice fall on Flying Circus and hit his head on the flake behind the climb in the fall no?
Tony Cousins had a heart attack on World's Toughest Milkman?
The person who decked on Neat and Cool?
others?
I got a couple more pics of Kyle's onsight attempt of Exasperator.
Kyle checks out the dyke features.
He made it to the p1 anchor without incident and sunk a nice cam in while he took a rest.
The first couple pieces off the belay went pretty well, but he was feeling it big time by the time he got to the first good rest.
It's not easy after the rest either.
Getting there!
Topping out!
I just couldn't get the exposure I wanted within the time frame. Sometimes it's hard to do.
no worries about the shoes. we'll figure it out later.
Cool Bruce. We tried to find you last night with little success. If i had an iphone you would have your shoes right now :)
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MH2
climber
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Kyle looked good on Exasperator.
Here is Tim McC on it for Peder.
And another couple guys a little further up.
The photos are by Peder Ourom in an article by Geoff Powter in Explore, Canada's Outdoor Adventure Magazine, August/September 1994.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And Greg said he'd never worn Lycra tights.
Hah!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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Wow! Finally a proper representation of Peder's work. Thank you mh2! Cool pic of Tim Mcc, and Greg and Hamish on Genus Loci! Amazing! I had to look that one up being that i've never seen it up close before. Very cool.
damn gf's shoes look like Mythos...
I must admit, bouldering was fun yesterday. Not something I see myself pursuing full time or anything but pretty fun.
Just wanted to dispell any notion that there is any purposefull bias towards Trad climbing in this thread. The only bias is that I'm a crack addict so that's what I like to climb and photograph. I don't climb sport very much anymore so I don't get the opportunity to shoot it. There is a place for all things climbing in this thread and I encourage any contributions.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I wasn't kidding when I said we tried to skip the scrubbing.
M.H. would have been proud of us.
Guess that's one more vote for the hip belay.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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That picture makes me want to go and give GL a shot! Maybe by the end of next year I'll be strong enough....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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We just wear flip flops now :)
Jugging Exasperator
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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brrr its a bit chilly tonight.
Thanks for the peder photo shares MH2.
Way to go mark!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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you on the wall luke?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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i am indeed, my portalegde has wireless internet too!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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What are you on today Luke? Did you hear all my rockfall this morning?
Kris
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MH2
climber
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Rain day dreams
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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(Peregrines in photo, but not visible.)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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Hudon paved the way. I've posted from a ledge :)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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wet morning today...
What would daryl do is right, im out of beer, and it doesnt look like this rain is gonna give up any time soon..
Does any one here know the story of how daryls folly pitch got its name...
Kris you were rainin rock over me all day...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Wow Luke, A for effort, that's for sure.
Daryl wouldn't have been soloing. At worst he would've dragged some skid-non-climber up with him under some sort of promise of free booze if he survived.
He actually pulled that off (at least) once, towed some poor hungover speciman up the Badge. Probably would've been easier to solo.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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Better post these before everyone sees them, now that I've outed my flickr account.
We also climbed Apron Strings on Saturday. Kyle went for the onsight on this one too, so I climbed a tree with some slings and aiders and got these shots.
Kyle starts out on Apron Strings 10b
Stemming it out for a little break.
I should have done this. I tried to run up the darn thing and my left hand was killing me at the top!
Closeup
I had a pretty sweet perch up there...
Kyle finishes it up.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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If you just had someone on sunday whites in that last photo, you would've made my day.
Great pics.
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