Silent partner tips please


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Trad climber
Sep 17, 2011 - 12:11am PT
Thats' awesome! Thanks for posting. I actually run two lockers I was just wondering/wargaming what ifs in my head.

Yeah, we're both WAY OLD SKOOL. . . and once you've been there, it's hard to be anything else, really.


Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2011 - 12:03am PT
Great, what a treat to get back from a bunch of days in the hills and find all these cool replies. I will read them over a few more times, then go do a ton of climbing with it, then maybe get the hang of it! Only soloed with a clove hitch before, and I do believe this will be a better way.....

Trad climber
Northern Italy
Jul 28, 2014 - 01:38am PT
I have a crag quite close to home. Its pitches are very short. Very, indeed: like, ten meters (33ft) or just a little bit more.

Despite a lot of people trusts the SP blindly, I do follow the manual advice "not to trust my life to a single device".
I love to climb and I want to do it for a long time to come and I don't want to get injured or worse. So I tie and untie backup knots.

Now, this is very time consuming especially for such short pitches. The setup almost takes the same time as the climb itself and I want to do moar climbing and less fiddling.

So yesterday I was thinking: what about using two strands of rope, each with a different device? The SP on one, and, for instance, the gri-gri on the other.

What I am afraid of, is that the two could interfere each other and be detrimental to my safety rather than helpful.

Example: the gri-gri fails to lock but slows my fall enough so that the SP don't lock as well.

Is this TOO paranoid or does it make sense?
Any comments, or other tips to lead solo with a fast backup would be really appreciated. Many thanks!

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 28, 2014 - 07:50am PT
That is not too paranoid. Weird stuff happens with managing just a single rope on regular climbs. Stuff any auto belay device cannot "think" through. Using two ropes with two systems a cluster. With the usually attending, possible accident waiting to happen.

If you want to try something like that out..then set up a third line tied off short to the ground and take some falls on slightly overhanging terrain. Heh right after I suggest two lines is a cluster.. I then suggest a third line.. go figure.

See what happens, Should be interesting and educational at least.

Jul 28, 2014 - 07:53am PT
Search around this site a little more, there are plenty of threads beside this one on the silent partner and toprope soloing in general.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 28, 2014 - 10:30am PT
To help silence your partner try using this line from Marko Prezelj...."stop killing me with your tasty talk!"
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