Silent partner tips please

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alannamal

climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2011 - 10:46am PT
So I just picked up a silent partner (100 bucks, never used, score!) and am looking for some tips from folks who are familiar with them. It seems like the manual is all over the top with there back up systems. Do you really need to use 2 lockers on it? And hows about just having a clove hitch as back-up instead of the big cluster of loops that they recommend for leading? I know that I'm ultimately responsible for my own safety systems, just wondering what other users of said device have found to be most effective. Thanks!
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:29am PT
Is using two lockers a problem?
locker

Social climber
CO
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:33am PT

If yer a good looking female...

You can USE me all day!!!...

But there's only ONE of me...

Not TWO!!!...


;-)






EDITED:

I also just got a good deal on a "Silent Partner" and PLAN on following the instructions...

;-)


eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:35am PT
I also just got a good deal on a "Silent Partner" and PLAN on following the instructions...

Wow. . . what a concept!

:-)
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:37am PT
If you read and re-read the manual you will see they recommend a clove on a locker as the back-up. Using multiple fig of 8 on lockers is another option. I use a clove on a locker(keylock so the clove won't snag when taking it out) and got good at doing a clove with one hand and my teeth.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:40am PT
I like silent partners too, someone who isn't jabbering away when I'm leading a spicy pitch.
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:43am PT
donini, when Bridwell was at our place one time (seeking advice on patenting one of his belay devices) he was fully checking out the SP prototype. . . then he looked up at Blanchard and said it needed a little speaker so it could play "encouraging remarks" at the rough spots.

HA!

locker

Social climber
CO
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:46am PT



"I like silent partners too, someone who isn't jabbering away when I'm leading a spicy pitch."...


Then yer in lot of T.R.O.U.B.L.E. if we Ice Climb together this season ...

LOL!!!...
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:47am PT
That belay device he came up with is awesome. I wish he could do something with it to help himself.
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:49am PT
That belay device he came up with is awesome. I wish he could do something with it to help himself.

The thing is a work of art!

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Greg Lowe could tell you that there is a big difference between having a good, even great, prototype and bringing it to market.
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:55am PT
Yes, that thing would be tough to manufacture because it is such a work of art. I know I would buy two.
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Sep 16, 2011 - 11:55am PT
Yeah. . . writing the patent application, alone, is daunting enough to shut down even the most highly motivated! Then couple that with things like licensing, instruction manual writing, and keeping up with the Patent and Trademark Office. . . whew. . . you should see the stacks of documentation.

WHOA!

Don't misunderstand, it was a thrilling and rewarding process, but not one for the disorganized or the impatient.
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
Yes, that thing would be tough to manufacture because it is such a work of art.

Nah. . . with the right CNC machine, anything is possible - might end up being a spendy process, but possible nonetheless.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
Nasty captain of a sailing vessel, to his mate: "What I want from you mister mate is silence, and not too much of that."
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Spendy was what I was getting at. I would still buy two having used it before. Superlight, autolocking on DOUBLE ropes! Good example of simple elegant genius.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
If you're comfortable w/ 1 biner and 1 clove hitch no one will stop you. I like the double biner aspect b/c it's your whole system and you can't fully control orientation on your biner if you fall (though the new solo/belay-specific rotation-limiting biners can help).

There's an old rc.com thread somewhere describing a solo fall that broke a climber's biner on a grigri sending him to his backup.

There was also another tale of a climber who took a huge fall on Braille Book and another similar story on After Six because the low angle falls didn't generate enough force to lock up the device. Also, if you forget about self-feeding the back up can limit how much slides through.

I'm far from a SP expert, but FWIW, I've never run more than one knot (I like and eight on a bight). I think the rationale behind having many knots ready to go is that you don't have to futz with it much to drop one and move into the next. If the terrain permits to not drag the whole rope up on your person, pulling up from the anchor would be my preference.
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
I think having a technique to deal specifcly with each situation is the key.
Melissa, are you talking aid or free? Just wondering about tying and retying the figo8 with one hand while free climbing. Do it at stances? This is why I go with the clove.
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
I have gotten pretty quick at dropping the old one and slapping on a new one.
JeffR

Trad climber
Cayucos, CA
Sep 16, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
I've found that using two carabiners to connect the SP makes the SP more "stable" on my harness, although one would certainly work.

The idea of the big-cluster-o-loops is yeah, a backup, but the advantage is also that it keeps the weight of the unused rope off of the SP mechanism which allows the SP to feed smoothly. I usually use two loops, because I found that sometimes I needed more rope to do a move than is available between the SP and the first loop, and it is quick and easy to unclip/untie the first loop to do the move, then tie/clip a second loop when I reach a good stance.
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