Who is the Gal in the 1946 AP Photo? Old Timers?!?

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perswig

climber
Jul 31, 2011 - 09:24am PT
Re: the gear in the bottom left (Marty's comment)- isn't that the other set of 'pons upside-down? They do look huge, and the "points" aren't really points, either.
She's got beautiful features, a serene expression, and that hair ... wow!

Anyway, no idea who, but nice puzzle.
Dale
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
If you zoom in, you can make out a flat-stamped, wide-body carabiner, three verticals and a horizontal. Additionally, a swivel 8 connector not designed for climbing is shown.

I think the racking item is a second identical biner.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Jul 31, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
I've sent this thread link to Valerie and Vivian Mendenhall, daughters of Ruth and John Mendenhall to see if they might want to weigh in.

Tom Higgins
LongAGo
Tobia

Social climber
GA
Aug 1, 2011 - 07:54am PT
This is what I was referring to....

(only mentioning because I saw this picture)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 10:36am PT
The metal stock size seems too fat for a piton keeper but they were common back when a good carabiner was hard to find! I don't see the wire guides on the spine and no shoulder cord visible anywhere either.
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Aug 2, 2011 - 03:52am PT
Michael Cohen emailed this response to me today:

"We don't think it is Ruth: Also, Ruth always wore high-tops."
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 2, 2011 - 04:25am PT
Here's an enlargement like Steve describes.
I don't see a special racking biner.
I see pretty much what Steve and Marty describe:
A. stamped oval biner, maybe aluminum. My guess: "P. ALLAIN":
(photo: Stephane Pennequin collection)
B. darker biner, maybe steel
C. snap shackle or swivel or double lap link - looks pretty heavy for alpine
D. horizontal piton
E,F,G. vertical pitons


As for the lower left corner of the original, what Marty describes as an "ice pick" looks like the pick of a non-drooped ice axe which were common at the time.

Between that and the pitons looks like a crampon; points down on the table, rings where the straps attach.
But the frame does not have quite the right shape.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Aug 2, 2011 - 04:45am PT
Interesting swivel shackle - the closest I could get to it on google images was:

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Aug 2, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Clint,

To me it looks like item "A" and item "B" are part of the same unit. The bottom of what is considered item "B" is possibly J-shaped with some funky top holder. Maybe the hammer slips into that hole on top of item "A". I don't believe item "A" is a carabiner, but a hammer holder with piton holder all in one unit.

The laplink clasp opens sideways pivoting on the center rivet. The way it stays secure is when the load pulls on it which prevents it from opening. I have seen this item used as a hardware piece which temporarily connects two chains together. This could also be a stainless steel item used on a boat.

I see the ice axe head/pick where you can also see the ice axe wood shaft sitting under the rope. The item I am referring to stands upwards in front of the pick, and looks like flat head screw driver ends welded to something. Is this a stove stand or hmmmm?

Rule of thumb is that there were no aluminum carabiners made until after World War II ended.

Fun mystery! Who is that hot chick?

Rock on! Marty
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Aug 2, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
Clint has the pitons and carabiners sorted out, but the labeling leads to
Marty's confusion.
The lefthand letter B is within the carabiner A.
Carabiner B runs from B to B. We see the spine. It is carrying the pitons.
The spikes in front of the ice axe pick might be points of a crampon.
The crampon pictured has points which are long and spike-like in cross
section.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 2, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
The real question is is that a Leica?
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 2, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
I figured it out!!!

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Aug 2, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
You guys actually think letter "A" is a carabiner? I have never seen any carabiner shaped like that. The gate on the object opens on the short right end also which is closest to the letter "A". The other side has a obvious flat side to it (stamped "K") once again on the short side of the carabiner. Carabiners are flat mostly on the long sides, and are round on the shorts. If you are suggesting that "A" is a carabiner and letter "B" is a carabiner, look how long "A" is in comparison to "B". Also if letter "A" is racked into "B" carabiner, why does it not sit up from the table (from the biner being under it), where obviously "A" sits completely parallel to the table. For "A" to sit the way it does it can't be racked into "B" and is somehow leaning in balance against "B". I do not believe "A" or "B" are carabiners. The only carabiner I see in the photo may be attached to the crampon. Pierre Allain did not produce products until the 1950s. There were no Aluminum carabiners made until after the war was over and actually not until the early 1950s.

Wikopedia - In the 1950s Allain opened a mountaineering store in Paris, where, among other items, he offered the first modern alloy carabiners. Prior to that time, these indispensable snaplinks were made of heavy steel. However, when Allain's name comes up these days, it is frequently in connection with his pioneering bouldering efforts at Fontainebleau. The famous Allain Angle (V2 - V3), done in 1934. So he was a boulderer as well.


But I am blonde...........Marty
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Aug 2, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
Reilly,

Probably. My dad had a leica and the case looks identincal. I'm pretty sure I ended up with that camera, need to take a pic of it.
Vivian Mendenhall

climber
Anchorage, Alaska
Aug 2, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
The photo is not of my mother, Ruth Dyar Mendenhall. The description of her hair, clothing, 1940s gear, etc. would fit either lady. However, her features were different, even in her 30s. A crucial clue is that Ruth wore glasses (she was very near-sighted), and this lady doesn't.

The equipment brings back nostalgic memories! Even the camera looks familiar. However, the Mendenhalls' ropes NEVER had knots tied in the ends (how would you ever retrieve a rappel?); they were bound off with friction tape or something similar.

For several photos of a younger Ruth, check out "Woman on the Rocks: The Mountaineering Letters of Ruth Dyar Mendenhall" (Bishop: Spotted Dog Press, 2007), edited by my sister Valerie Mendenhall Cohen.

Good luck at identifying the lady! BTW, she may well be a climber, but the photo looks posed-- the sorting table just looks too tidy and well-arranged to be a real mess of gear.

--Vivian Mendenhall
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Aug 2, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
Vivian thanks!

BTW I enjoyed reading your mother's book and found names of mutual friends of our family in the readings. I remember from my high school days your father at Lunch Rock pounding out his soft pitons to head off and lead the Right Ski Track! Such great times in our youth not realizing our own witness to such great history.

Kind regards,

Charlie D.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
Vivian- Thanks for the response!

Fun to try and sort this out even though it may be nobody of note as you mention.

For further mystery, we are still trying to identify a gal in a photo along with Leonard and Eichorn on the Indian Rock Legacy thread.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1215152&msg=1402261#msg1402261
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Aug 3, 2011 - 03:31am PT
This is an ebay lot for tower protection gear.
I know its not the exact laplink clasp (referring to "C"), but somewhat the same idea.

Tobia

Social climber
GA
Aug 19, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
So, did anyone know?

Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 19, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
This is a real shamus job and now I'm interested in knowing who that woman is - can't tell you why, exactly. Maybe it's the mystery of it all.

JL
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