StoneMaster Stories (Part III) continued onward

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WBraun

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2006 - 08:53pm PT
This is a splinter of the Part II massive and bloated thread.

Post new addendums to the original thread here on Part III.

Here is the link to the Part II thread for background:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0

Wonder

climber
WA
Feb 20, 2006 - 09:07pm PT
so where was i, oh yeah, Peter Minks pissing on the flag. After that we had the great rendition of O'Rileiy's Daughter.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 20, 2006 - 09:08pm PT
Thanks for flakin' out some more rope for us Werner.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Feb 20, 2006 - 09:15pm PT
John,
Didn't you say this might be for an upcoming book? Just
wondering if everyone who contributes and gets a story printed gets some royalties???? Yer brilliant bro, yer gettin enough material to do AT LEAST one book, and everyone else is doing the work!!!
"Choa Babe!" (john long)
Peace
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 20, 2006 - 09:22pm PT
KNUCKLEHEADS? INDEED! "Hohoho, Man!"

Roy, man, I haven't seen you in ages dude. Last time I think it was in the Meadows. Yes, you got the second part of the handle right. Fortunately, in my opinion, the "Penny" usually gets dropped. There is of course a story to the name. But KP can probably recount that much better than I.

How about the Smooth Sole? Maybe the routes were Blown Out, Drown Out, Pink Royd, Ultimatium, Last Dance, and Down and Out?

I am about 100% positive that I remember the exact afternoon.

When I said in my initial post that the Stonemaster legacy would live on through the climbing of the people they influenced I wasn't kidding. Others like John, Ricky, and Mike had helped to get me kick-started. They did it for me, I was supposed to do it for others. Quite simple. So we see their influence twice removed. And you've probably done it for someone else. Three times removed. And so it goes on...

See what I mean? Is this stuff killer, or what?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 20, 2006 - 09:34pm PT
D Hensel,
I hope you are well.

I think Blown Out was the topper- 'had a sort of short headwall crux with a high step-dropover maneuver, moving a bit right to an edge you had to catch with the right foot.

They'll probably pull that shred out of my brain with other baby bootie stuff when I get my re-juve

29 years ago-

So lets hear the Minksy debacle someone...
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 20, 2006 - 10:30pm PT
Alright Gramicci, let's see if you remember this. Bobby and I used to go weekly to the local climbing store, at that time I believe it was directly across from the old Chart House, just to look at the book where people were hand writing their first ascents. We saw the write up of Seasons End, and within one week we were back up to do it. But the one I really remember being psyched about was when we saw New Gen in the book. I don't remember how long it took us to get ready for that route, but it wasn't too long. We also came up on a week day. I led the first pitch and remember that it seemed hard. It seemed a little more spooky than Valhalla. Bobby led the second pitch, he only took a few falls on it before sending it. Man we were so totally psyched! We thought we had absolutely arrived. We just sat at the second belay for a long time, basking in the moment. We weren't really that concerned about the third pitch at that point so we didn't feel that we needed to hurry. Finally we top out and start hiking down late in the day. Only to meet you coming up the trail at the dime tree (remember the tree with the coins stuck in it? one had to offer a token dime sacrifice to that tree sooner or later or the "dime" Gods wouldn't smile on your Suicide efforts). You and Tobin had been in Humber Park and seen us on route, and were wondering who it could be. Since we were taking so long to top out you had hiked up just to find out. When you saw us, you didn't ask any questions, you simply said "So it was you guys." I think you then told us that we had just done the third overall ascent, the second continuous ascent of all three pitches, and the first EB ascent. That just absolutely capped our day. It made us feel that we too had become part of the new generation.

And for what it's worth, I always liked the name.

This talk of New Gen makes me remember the time KP and I were at the base of it and Tobin... Guess I'll have to tell that story one of these days.

Anybody remember this Powell-ism? "Hohoho man, there I was! Couldn't go up. Couldn't go down. Didn't know what I was gonna do!"

Ricky: Dude, let's get together and crank some rads (5.9 for me). Maybe we'll even get Powell to come along for entertainment! What a scream that'll be!

henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 20, 2006 - 10:56pm PT
But Largo... If you would've been thinner/smaller like us, then you wouldn't have been the "Big Man". Nor would you have been able to be bigger than life. Now don't go blowin' my minds eye image of you. It just doesn't seem right when you only weigh in at 150 lbs.

No, things were just right.

Wonder

climber
WA
Feb 20, 2006 - 10:56pm PT
so do you remember the name of the guy who owned the climbing shop? we were talking about Jay Smith. him and i used to teach climbing out of Clifford's shop. Clifford attempted a one day solo assent up the north face of Mt San Jacinto. had to bivy right below the top.





healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 21, 2006 - 12:16am PT
"...just to look at the book where people were hand writing their first ascents."

Anyone know if that book survived...? Sounds like a real treasure and part of history if it did...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 21, 2006 - 07:10am PT
The shop was Mountain People?- or did that come later.

Was Bullwinkle snappin' frames when the core group was out and up on things?

An action photo of each of the prime actors would be cool, to ground the whole thing and round out the thread before it closes out.

I know that puts a lot of goods right out on the table, as Ron Gomez mentioned. I think its all public domain unless copyrighted. But that was Largo's request to begin with; for all to step forward and start to get something rolling for a published project. This thread is a harvesting mission, a teaser, the initial PR.

Maybe each of you, already listed in the informal roll call, could throw something up, without spilling the best candy in the lobby?

Tobin did an interview, I think in Mountain, describing his transition. It was at once revealing and a bit heartbreaking- he spoke of consolidating his rock skills, with a fast ascent of Astroman, maybe Tales, I think all on nuts. He spoke of an emptiness, the bible smuggling as a path to more conviction. That also would help to flesh out the guy who seems to be the esteemed poster child and one of the more colorful core activists.

Thanks Rob Muir for your earlier pics.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Feb 21, 2006 - 07:36am PT
Little Roy, how ya doing. Good to see you join the ST ranks.

Here's one of those oldish Bullwinkle shots you wanted to see.

So, who is this flying monkey?


and a bonus beer for those who can name what he's jumping off of. Of course you have to see me to collect it.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Feb 21, 2006 - 07:42am PT
Pat- is that formation called the "Up 40"? ..or Up 30?

it's over near Turtle Rocks. I recall there is a sweet-but-too short 5.10d fingercrack hidden in the shadows on the formation on the left (ferget the name of the route...

if it IS the up 30, it's a jb highball, so maybe that is an airborne Johhny Rock?

or- i coud be all wrong
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Feb 21, 2006 - 07:47am PT
Tarbuster,
NOT serious about the royalty thing, just yankin John. This is a great place to be reading all these great stories, I hope something does come of it, it would be great to have and if nothing else, it brings back many great memories of a bunch of great people all into the same thing at the same time! Keep the contributions coming!
Peace
Pat, them shorts look like something Bachar or Mike Paul would be wearing? What he is jumping off of? A ROCK (send the beer)
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Feb 21, 2006 - 08:13am PT
Darrell, I totally remember that day! I was very stoked with people doing that route. You two were like still water running deep. We definitely watched you and Bobby all the time probability in hopes of learning something. And that Tree wow, I completely forgot about it.

The mountain people shop, the first one (at the junction, top of town) was pretty cool. The guy had set up all these commercial sewing machines and let me make my first belay seat there, the one with the big yellow Lighting bolt. Those guys were so ahead of there time on pack making. I watched the owner hand sketch a tear drop pack pattern in less than fifteen minutes, a great influence to me. Ricky, I still have one of those light alpine models I did later too.

Jay’s shop was different it was down the road wasn’t it called desert sun or something?

“Was Bullwinkle snappin' frames when the core group was out and up on things?”

Not yet but I snapped this one of him on the fallen ponderosa










Roy, I have an interview of Tobin from a mag in Australia, don’t know if it’s the one your thinking of? if there is another I would like to track it down. Anyone?

I'll post a link soon to the interview...

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Feb 21, 2006 - 08:16am PT
Jeff and Ron, you're both right, in that it's jb in the photo. You're both right as to what he's jumping off of (I knew it was too easy). Ron, yes it's a rock all right, but it has a name too. And I think you have it sort of right Jeff. I have always known it as the Molar, but I think in the guide it says it is also called Up 40 (Randy?).
Here's how he got up there, but it's 11b and not 10d Jeff.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Feb 21, 2006 - 08:20am PT
and since I seem to be on a Bullwinkle-Bachar theme, here's one from the same time.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 21, 2006 - 09:00am PT
Now worries Ron-
I recall we met through Mike Paul, so howdy.
Largo does have a way of getting others to pony up!

He's also no stranger to the standard artistic tactic of harvesting existing raw material to further his own synthesis; meaning we all have our influences.

I'll take a hackneyed crack at the Largo Wellspring:
Genghis Kahn/Jim Bridwell/John Milius/Buster Keaton/Phyllis Diller!?(my neck's out on that last one)

Gramicci- Mountain People made some burly stuff; a multi layered tie up swami with perlon gear loops was my buddy Doug's first tie in.

Also:I was lucky enough to be standing in your office in '82 when Lechlinski picked up his intial pair of Fire: I casually glanced at a pair on the floor next to your desk and said, "Jee, whose are those?" - a half size too big, I stuffed 2 wedges of 3/8" closed cell foam behind my heels and my range tripled, a bit ahead of the public's access. A great advance in footwear, we still called it survival edging when it came to appraising that aspect of their performance.

Hi Pat!

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 21, 2006 - 09:23am PT
Gramicci-
There was also a good interview with you, (not sure if this has already been referenced), where you talked about the Aquarian drenching, Australia, experimenting with adrenalin shots for bouldering...
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Feb 21, 2006 - 10:55am PT
Today in 2006 I have a disclaimer that goes along with that interview. One shot was all I needed to know that wasn’t a good idea!

I'm collecting interviews, so then them my way.

That Aquarian drenching is a story in its self I might put on digital paper sometime.

You were with mike that day…I’m getting a clear picture now.

MG



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