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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
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Rob. I've done Road Warrior 4 or 5 times now, and hope to do it every year or two for the foreseeable future. Yeah, I'd do it with you. By the way, a couple months back I posted 4 new routes (to MountainProject.com: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/mt_evans/the_black_wall/); near Road Warrior that I'd done with Clean Dan Grandusky and George Lowe in the early '90s. Some pics of Road Warrior in the Cary Granite description.
Riley. I'm not the best guy to explain it. See Russ Walling's pics above. The hand stack with two palms facing out is a good one (shown by Russ) for just bigger than fist. For a little wider crack replace one of those palms with a fist. The lower body part is where the real work is done. I generally try to fit a knee in so that I can re-place the hands. I suppose the leg above your head thing is probably a way of dealing with cracks where you can't fit your knee in.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Feb 19, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
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I think the tube sox usage is tantamount to aid climbing. So I guess the rating of this boulder problem/wide crack climb is about 5.6 A0?
I need more tube sox.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 19, 2006 - 02:11pm PT
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Greg-
Of course, now that I look at your nice pictures, and remember the hypoxic near-blackouts I experienced on the Road(-rash) Warrior, it occurs to me that I haven't climbed Good Evans, or Cary Granite, or any of those other fine-looking lines.
How's Coffee Achievers? It's on my hand-copied topo from that magazine article.
Rob
Hoarding Hemoglobin in the 'Ville
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Friend
climber
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Mar 30, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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Bump for upside down OWs and arm bar burliness.
Even a few JB posts, RIP, always a bittersweet treat to come across his comments.
Here is Nick doing his core work at Woodson the other day.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 30, 2017 - 12:03pm PT
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This could be baseless slander...but didn't a longtime Valley local with a penchant for malt liquor and a loose knowledge of the German langauge get his leg jammed in Cream in such a way to necessitate the tying off of ropes to tree roots and a top-down extraction, perhaps including--but not limited to--the liberal application of a product most commonly associated with "adult situations"?
Discuss.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 30, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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I'm older and wiser now after 11 years (I used to be Grug) -- mostly from climbing with Jaybro and Pamela, who specialize in offwidths. I've recently learned some things to do with your feet in stacking situations that has me intrigued with fixing some bad sizes for me going forward.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2017 - 04:17am PT
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Did you get new shoes yet?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 31, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
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I'm thinking if I only have enough flex-spending money to saw off one of my bunions this year, it should be the left. If it was any bigger I could do a bunion jam. I can see that bunion jams just might actually get better after shoe material "break-through".
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
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If the shoe fits....
You might be onto something!
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