Discussion Topic |
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2006 - 11:41am PT
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I remember when I first learned about Leavitation. I had done most of the hard offwidths that I have still ever done before learning and using this amazing technique (why didn't I think of it!). I'm wondering if others were as amazed as me to learn that certain sized cracks were up to a full number grade easier with Leavitation.
A particular climb I remember is Mother Superior at Mt Woodson. To this day, arm-barring this thing was probably the hardest wide crack I've ever done (by the way, the name was intended to reflect that it was harder than Bad Ass Momma). I learned about Leavitation a year or so later. When I subsequently did Mother Superior with Tom Gibson, it felt like 5.10d (at least the offwidth part). Similar stories out there?
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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 18, 2006 - 12:01pm PT
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Not with M.S. Lots of backslapping on the "slab" for me the last time I was at "the wood". Weak core and sloppy technique get "ratted out™" every time on stuff like that.
Thanks for the story on the name, I always thought it somehow had to do with "jumping the gun"..
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 18, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
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I had heard that about the name, but it always seemed weird to me because by the time I finally did Mom supe I stacked it and it seemed more straight forward than the other one. The first time I tried Bad Ass Moma I tried to armbar it and got nowhere.
I actually resisted leavitation until I watched Cilley stack BAM and it dawned on me there might be something to it. That was the first crack I ever tried it on. Now I can't imagine doing it any other way.
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Hootervillian
climber
Zak's Cabin
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Feb 18, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
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never knew the name story either, thanks.
man, i miss woodson.
how many climbers can you get into big grunt at the same time? is there an official tally?
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2006 - 01:36pm PT
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Jaybro. So you can/did stack Bad Ass Mama? It's been so long, that I can't even remember the size, for sure. This was another one that I thought pretty darn hard as an arm-bar route.
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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 18, 2006 - 01:56pm PT
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how many climbers can you get into big grunt at the same time?
"Ratt(l)ed out™" of that one, too. Sounds like an ol' 'Stonemaster wacky cultural expedition™'.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
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You know, the Poway Mountain Boys were really bad about naming climbs or remembering the names of them, particularly in the early years (pre-1974). Is the Big Grunt that huge chimney right on the road and across from what I remember as Poison Ivy Crack?
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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 18, 2006 - 02:02pm PT
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Probably, it's pretty close to M.S.-it's a "horizontal" chimney through a gigantic split egg.
I couldn't (more like "wouldn't) do the "inverted toe cam cartwheel™" to get into it...even had good beta!
Pretty ugly double decker fall onto the blacktop, but you PMB's know, for the "Wood" that's actually a pretty safe LZ-"flat and no stabbies™."
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 18, 2006 - 02:10pm PT
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Grug-handstack, invert, repeat, then I can my knee then the rest of me in it. I'd still be working on it, today if I hadn't gone to the darkside of stacking.
I'll dig up some pictures.
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Hootervillian
climber
Zak's Cabin
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Feb 18, 2006 - 02:15pm PT
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pictures of the opening sequence of MS? yes please.
oh yeah. exactly, big chimney, right across from PI crack.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 18, 2006 - 07:50pm PT
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I was just levitating in my living room ( it's snowing so there's nothing else to do).
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 18, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
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Looking good, John!?
How are them accopas for high volume, mostly narrow and mutantly high-arched, old guy, feet?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 18, 2006 - 08:04pm PT
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Jaybro! Narrow eh? You'll be stoked on these babies - all leather, medium stiff, super comfy...cheers jb
The Aurora Lace-Up....
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Feb 18, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
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I just tried Mother Superior last weekend. My knee doesn't seem to like to jam so well on the lower section, so I'm having a lot of trouble. I should be able to get it soon, though. Damn nice climb! I can't even imagine that thing without stacking. Mad props to anyone who has pulled that off.
My buddies and I got 3 into Big Grunt last sunday.
Josh
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 18, 2006 - 08:08pm PT
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JB, Thanks, I'm looking.
Josh,I Tr-onsighted (whatever you call that) Mother superior, stacking, and I can't imagine it, the other way.
Though, it WOULD get you in shape! ha-ha
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 18, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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Mother Superior- cool crack. I arm barred it. I think real levitation would be best however. See above photo.
Email me if you need sumthin' jaybro! cheers, jb
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
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Feb 18, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
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Hey Greg.. here is one from your backyard... Boulder 13 at Woodson. I like to use the term "handstacking" instead of Leavittation™™™. Word on the street is handstacking was around long before the namesake.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 19, 2006 - 12:12am PT
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Nice stacking! Indeed, I learned about stacking from "old guys" in the Valley way before this other stuff was "invented". jb
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2006 - 09:29am PT
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ok I'm back on line. You know, I was wondering whether or not handstacking was used before Randy Leavitt. I sure didn't use it (I wonder if Pratt did?), and like I said to start off this thread, it makes a huge difference for me in that size crack a little bigger than fist. I think of all of the skin on my shoulders and elbows I might have saved if I'd learned it earlier.
Nice pics Russ. Do they still call that Boulder 13? There's another technique that I still haven't use - the foot above your head thing. I first did Boulder 13 in the first bouldering contest at Woodson and pretty much fist-jammed it sticking out my bent thumb to make my fist bigger (thrashed my thumb).
I pretty much didn't climb throughout the '80s, and after moving to the Denver area and starting up again, I actually forgot about the whole handstacking thing. I'd done this climb, Road Warrior, twice before doing it a third time and remembering to hand-stack. Once again, the difference was like night and day!
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 19, 2006 - 11:51am PT
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Grug, I read this title and thought immediately of the Road Warrior. I'm pretty much an OW gumby but I dug that thing. If you get a free day and want to go up that one again,holler real loud, I'll meetcha.
Rob in Leadville
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
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Rob. I've done Road Warrior 4 or 5 times now, and hope to do it every year or two for the foreseeable future. Yeah, I'd do it with you. By the way, a couple months back I posted 4 new routes (to MountainProject.com: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/mt_evans/the_black_wall/); near Road Warrior that I'd done with Clean Dan Grandusky and George Lowe in the early '90s. Some pics of Road Warrior in the Cary Granite description.
Riley. I'm not the best guy to explain it. See Russ Walling's pics above. The hand stack with two palms facing out is a good one (shown by Russ) for just bigger than fist. For a little wider crack replace one of those palms with a fist. The lower body part is where the real work is done. I generally try to fit a knee in so that I can re-place the hands. I suppose the leg above your head thing is probably a way of dealing with cracks where you can't fit your knee in.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Feb 19, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
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I think the tube sox usage is tantamount to aid climbing. So I guess the rating of this boulder problem/wide crack climb is about 5.6 A0?
I need more tube sox.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 19, 2006 - 02:11pm PT
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Greg-
Of course, now that I look at your nice pictures, and remember the hypoxic near-blackouts I experienced on the Road(-rash) Warrior, it occurs to me that I haven't climbed Good Evans, or Cary Granite, or any of those other fine-looking lines.
How's Coffee Achievers? It's on my hand-copied topo from that magazine article.
Rob
Hoarding Hemoglobin in the 'Ville
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Friend
climber
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Mar 30, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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Bump for upside down OWs and arm bar burliness.
Even a few JB posts, RIP, always a bittersweet treat to come across his comments.
Here is Nick doing his core work at Woodson the other day.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 30, 2017 - 12:03pm PT
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This could be baseless slander...but didn't a longtime Valley local with a penchant for malt liquor and a loose knowledge of the German langauge get his leg jammed in Cream in such a way to necessitate the tying off of ropes to tree roots and a top-down extraction, perhaps including--but not limited to--the liberal application of a product most commonly associated with "adult situations"?
Discuss.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 30, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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I'm older and wiser now after 11 years (I used to be Grug) -- mostly from climbing with Jaybro and Pamela, who specialize in offwidths. I've recently learned some things to do with your feet in stacking situations that has me intrigued with fixing some bad sizes for me going forward.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2017 - 04:17am PT
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Did you get new shoes yet?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 31, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
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I'm thinking if I only have enough flex-spending money to saw off one of my bunions this year, it should be the left. If it was any bigger I could do a bunion jam. I can see that bunion jams just might actually get better after shoe material "break-through".
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
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If the shoe fits....
You might be onto something!
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