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gilly
climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
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Sep 10, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Good stuff Mike,like the names
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Sep 10, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
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Hi Mike,
I like the routes but I hate Metolius rap hangers.
I know that it costs a lot of time and money to put up routes.
Keep them coming.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Sep 27, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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Wow. I missed this thread before somehow. I guess BS threads do push good climbing content off the first page on the Taco.
I can't wait to get up there and check out the new stuff. I love Bowman but haven't been up there in over 10 years. Too many trips to Yosemite I guess :-)
Thanks for the posts and route development!
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kennyt
climber
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
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Where is the bears lair?
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 02:03am PT
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Short steep wall a couple hundred yards right of the fortress above steel monkey wall. Obscured by trees - hard to see until you're there. Just keep following cliff base right of fortress until you bump into it. Seven bolted lines + killer/steep bouldering.
see video: http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000726012971
Cheers, M
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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Also check out the Emeralds Upper Gorge. Better than it ever was. Approach from Spaulding Lake (west side) descend upper gorge via spill way - 1/4 mile past big dam. Rap in or hike down west side of rim trail to center gorge then walk up to upper gorge. Several of the routes are longer than 30 meters. If you rap into the upper gorge with a single 60m then use the Metolius rap anchor station off the narrow ledge. Red tag/pink tag first bolt routes are projects. Cheers, M
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kennyt
climber
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Mike,Can you drive to steel monkey or is the gate always closed? did alot of climbing at the Emeralds in the early 90s but it's been awhile.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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Unfortunately the gate's still locked. The walk is about 15 mins although some people ride bikes (5mins). The lower gorge is still blown out but the upper gorge has 21 new bolted lines - stellar climbing. To get there come in via post above (spaulding lake). Brad Johnson and John Robinson have bolted some fun new lines above steel monkey on the fortress and kudos cliffs - maybe 12 to 15 new lines. The Bear's Lair has 7 bolted lines and great bouldering (see posts above). Cheers, M
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
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"Big Brad" johnson and Will "Danger" Robinson warming-up on Sub Zero .11b Emeralds, Upper Gorge.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Nov 13, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
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Hey Mike
I just drove to windy Point on Thursday. It looked a bit scary getting to the route - the road was way icy.
So now my question is what is the typical time-line in the late spring, early summer? (Of course it depends on a number of elements). I'm guessing that that is never plowed and that they (NID, PG&E etc) access the dams via tracked vehicles?
Looks wonderful, I've always wanted to check that spot out - glad I did the recy. I will be back!
Thanks in advance for the routes!
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MrAlex
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Hi everyone. Just wondering if anyone has been to Larryland recently and can share some info on road and weather conditions. Much appreciated :)
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
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Yes. It's really good right now. We climbed yesterday 12/3 during the wind storms and it was quite nice. Sun from 10am-5pm and sheltered. Some icy spots on the road in, so you'll need AWD/4WD but no clearance issues. Cheers, M
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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MrAlex
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Thanks for the reply (and pics), Mike! Will try to make it there sometime soon.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I was out there a month or two back. Fun stuff.
Mike how do you approach the top of the upper gorge? Above you said from the west side of Spaulding but how do you get there? Is there a road starting near Fuller lake? I tried from the Spaulding boat ramp but it says no trespassing that way.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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bump
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mike, is that Tori Orlowski?
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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Mooser - I think Tori's last name is Orlowski - from GV.
The Fet - don't go in from Fuller (too far). Approach upper gorge from Spaulding Lake Rd. Turn off Hwy 20 and park just before first gate about 1/4 mile (not down by boat ramp). Hike (20 mins) or ride a bike (10 mins) along west side of lake past big dam to spill way. Walk down gorge about 150 yards to drop off - rappel off Metolius rap anchors 100'. Gorge is good during summer = May - Oct even if it's 105 in Sac. Too cold now. Early season in a big snow/rain year they open spill way so watch out for high water flow in spring.
Or you can come in from the Emeralds (longer hike) on the trail system above Steel Monkey wall.
Cheers, M
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Thanks Mike, I've approached the lower gorge from below the Steel Monkey wall, but it's a pain going over that boulder outwash. From your last post I take it there's another trail system above the Steel Monkey wall?
Is this photo the approximate approach from Spaulding? This is what I thought it would be but there's no trespassing signs on the gate and I didn't want to piss off PG&E and jeopardize access. Do you walk over the big dam?
I wouldn't want to be in that gorge if they open the spillway! Certain death!!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
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Your map is spot on although you should probably park at first gate (about 1/4 mile off Hwy 20) and not down further by second gate/road leading to dam. PG&E seems fine with "along the dam access" from Memorial Day through Halloween. Probably not a great idea to park/approach across dam other times which is fine because that's really the best season. It would be a bad deal to be caught in the gorge during a water release. If you traverse along the slabs above Steel Monkey wall toward the gorge it takes about 20 mins. The trail dumps you just above the middle gorge. From there you can follow trails down or up to access gorge. There is a fair bit to climb now in the upper gorge. Lower gorge is still pretty blown out. Bowman should remain good until first big snow. Give us a shout if you're out that way.
Cheers, M
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