New Tahoe Sport Crags - Larry Land, Bowman, Emeralds.

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M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
On your way to Tahoe? Checkout the Bowman Valley off I-80/Hwy 20 past the Emeralds. Some of the best moderate sport cragging in the Tahoe area. So far about 70 routes - mostly 5.8 - 5.12. Free camping, excellent swimming. Larry Land lies below the cement dam/Bowman Lake, Candy Land and the Cove across the flume base of the descent road (Windy Point). Plus Scott Land, Ire Land, B-Word. All offer excellent climbing of all grades. Cheers.
Josh enjoying a cruise on Larry Land .11c   Bowman Valley near Tahoe.
Josh enjoying a cruise on Larry Land .11c Bowman Valley near Tahoe.
Credit: M Carville
Josh on Sub Text .12a,  Larry Land. Bowman Lake
Josh on Sub Text .12a, Larry Land. Bowman Lake
Credit: M Carville
Mike heading our the roof on Porn Star .12b, Larry Land, Bowman Lake.
Mike heading our the roof on Porn Star .12b, Larry Land, Bowman Lake.
Credit: Jim Thornburg
Sanam warming up on RocknRolla 5.9.  Candy Land, Bowman Valley.
Sanam warming up on RocknRolla 5.9. Candy Land, Bowman Valley.
Credit: Jim Thornburg
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jul 2, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Thanks, Mike. Do you know how much of this, if any, is included in the new Tahoe area guidebook? I'm still using your 1999 book!
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 2, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
nice!!!!
426

climber
Jul 2, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
"It's like deja vu, all over again.(?)"- Y. Berra

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1478073&msg=1533177#msg1533177
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
No, Bowman Valley and the new Emeralds stuff is not in the new Tahoe guide. I dont know much about the new Tahoe guide except that I think it is a .pdf/order on-line kind of thing but I am not sure. Page 24 of the old guide briefly describes B-Word, which is an excellent crag. In the gulley behind B-Word is the Frye Wall. Short powerful bolted climbs by Scott Frye. Josh Horniak is putting together a phenomenal/comprehensive guide to Tahoe similar to the current Vegas guide (Bowman/Emeralds over 200 new sport routes will be in his new guide).

Larry Land lies below the Bowman Lake cement dam (13.5 miles on Bowman Rd. from Hwy 20). Park at the bridge and walk up the road (blocked by a cable) along right side of the dry riverbed for 5 minutes. Cliff boarders the left edge of the dam (excellent swimming at the lake). All routes are well bolted and most are 5.11. Everything that goes out the big roofs is 5.12. The 2 routes on the right are 10s.

The Cove (across flume) and Candy Land (a couple hundred yards left of The Cove) are up and right of the road at the S curves after you descend from Windy Point (well before the Larry Land pullout). Hope that helps, and give a shout if you see us up there - we'll show you around.

Cheers, M
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 2, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
Mike,

Thanks for the post! Please tell Josh I said hi!

Tom Patterson
(formerly of Nevada City)
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
In the same area I bolted (along with someone else) some easy routes on a 90 ft slab.... ~7 routes 5.6 to 5.10b. Park in same area described and head to the nearest wall through the trees...about a 2 minute approach.

Great little area to take beginners.

BTW, The areas Mike describes have some of the most solid granite I've ever climbed on.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
Steve is that you? Your routes are great. How'd that bordering cave turn out?
Heyzeus

climber
Hollywood,Ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
Is it too hot to climb in July?

I remember about 20 years ago some guy named Mongo talking about putting up routes there. My memory's hazy, maybe it wasn't Bowman. The lake that feeds Fordyce creek, that have rock nearby?

Edit: Just looked at a map- maybe Spaulding.
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
Hi Mike, yeah it's me. The bouldering wall is mostly done. All but the far right side is dug out and the landing is nice and flat. The topouts and upper portion of the wall need some cleaning still. I've only had time to put up one route.... ~V3. There are probably another 10 problems that can go...up to V7?...probably a long traverse along the entire wall too. Cruxes will be the topouts. I was there last weekend and winter has solidified the landing and the fine dirt I dug out has settled.

Trips out there this year will be spotty since I just became a first time dad Tuesday....wish me luck.

Hope to finish up the wall....or anybody else for that matter.

For those interested park in same area just before the bridge and walk down the blocked off road (blocked off with a cable) to the right, walk down about 40 yards to a huge dead tree on the road and head right up the hill about 15 yards. about a 5 minute approach. 45 degree overhanging bouldering wall with a 15 foot lip, 30 feet long.

Steve Montesanto

all in jim

climber
Jul 2, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
I think it's probably super hot there at the moment? But, like Mike said, there is excellent swimming in the lake and sometimes in the creek, as well.
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Most areas are shady in the morning. On sunny days it's quite hot in the afternoon at most of these climbing areas maybe withe the exception of B wall. Larry land proper gets the most sun. Cloudy/overcast days are best since you can climb well into the afternoon.

If the snow comes late the road will remain open longer. These late season days (Nov/Dec) are great because the air is cool even though you're climbing in the sun. 2 seasons ago I climbed at Larry land a week before Christmas in comfort.

Hey Mike, is that about right?

Cheers!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
You bet Steve. Josh and I climbed out there last night from 3pm-8:30pm and will be out there again tomorrow. The rock is still cool due to late summer but it was hot in the direct sun. Larry Land in shade until about 1pm, The Cove until 3pm. B-Word gets shade in the afternoon. It will probably be too hot in a few weeks. Like Jimmy said, you can always take a break mid day and swim.

Congrats on your new addition. I have two - 5 & 7 years old. They're great - I wouldn't trade them for the world but expect your climbing to drop at least a number grade! Hope to see you out there this summer when you get a chance to sneak away. Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2011 - 10:20am PT
Hi Tom,

I'll let Josh know. Next time your down this way, we'll have to get out there. Cheers, M
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jul 3, 2011 - 11:06am PT
The correst placement for the Metolius rap hanger is in the bottom of your trash can.
stella

climber
cali
Jul 10, 2011 - 02:08am PT
any topos floating around for the area?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 10, 2011 - 10:27am PT
the new North Tahoe guide can be purchased on line or in stores, just like ay other. And its ten tims more accurate than that FALCON abortion....
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 10, 2011 - 10:35am PT
Hey Ron, is Bowman in the guide?

Thanks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 10, 2011 - 10:42am PT
http://camp4press.com/images/CAMP_4_PRESS-Tahoe_guidebook.pdf


heres a site you can go to to check out sample pages. Bowman isnt in it..
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 10, 2011 - 10:50am PT
Maybe Bowman not being in the guide is a blessing in disguise....

Steve, you sound like a proper guide for the area. I'll give you a shout when I'm up that way. Swimming, climbing, fishing? I'm all in!!!

Woot!
dustonian

climber
RRG
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:03am PT
Nice! Good to see those photos of Horniak, been a while... looks fun!
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:05am PT
Blue,

I forgot to mention the topper......deep water soloing!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Jul 10, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
Bowman and the Emeralds were removed from the new North Tahoe / Reno / Carson City region guidebook because the book was already to large (1,300 routes)and I did not have time to finish that part, especially with all the new stuff going in there. Those areas are being included in the new guide to Northeastern California coming out next year. (see the camp4press.com website under the "upcoming projects" page for more info.) The Emeralds/Bowman is the last part of this guidebook that we will be working on. This book will be a completely comprehensive guidebook just like the new North Tahoe guidebook. I plan on being there most of this fall finishing it up. Any new route info can be sent to us from the camp4press website on the "feedback" page. Thanks.

John Jackson

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 10, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
Blue,

I forgot to mention the topper......deep water soloing!


UNHOLY!!!!!!11!!!!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Jul 10, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Grew up in Nevada City, age 1-20,swimming in the clear waters of the Yuba River and jumping off the cliffs into the Emeralds are some of my best life memories. Spent hundreds of days having fun in the different forks of the Yuba River. Climb in the morning and evening, spend the hot part of the day jumping into the Emeralds, ahhhhh......blissful. Now I get to share this wonderful place with my kids, (who are 12 and 20)a cool place indeed!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jul 10, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
way cool, I love this area and all the more reason to visit again. Mike, I too still use your guide as THE guide to the area. I'll buy any and all updates produced though. I love the drooling late nights pouring over what to or what I did climb.

Marc
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
bump
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
Mike and Josh,
We saw you guys out there today. Thanks for giving me the verbal tour of the area. Bowman Lake rocks!! I hope to check out the new moderates at the Emeralds soon. Got a couple sends in at Candyland, and the swimming was great!
Wildmotor

climber
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
fyi Tahoe locals: the new North Lake guide (John Jackson's book) is available at Alpenglow in Tahoe City as of today.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 11:58am PT
Steve,

Nice job on that overhanging bouldering wall/traverse. You guys really buffed out the base. Looks like you brought in a grader!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 12:31am PT
Killer K - you bet. Also check out the Fun House wall which is just up from where you parked. Cheers, M
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 12, 2011 - 12:38am PT
I/m still trying to rally somebody to drive up there with me this weekend. I like rolling with a co-pilot out of the bay on long drives (and back home when I'm exhausted).

Is the camping pretty easy to obtain? For Bowman. Are there car-camping spots around if the tent stuff is full? Is it BLM land? Can I target-shoot legally off the main trails (not important, just curious)? Anybody have topos? What is the best moderate crag, in the 5.6 to 5.10 range? How would I find it?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
Take Hwy. 20 exit off I-80 and drive toward Nevada City several miles. Just before the bottom of the hill, turn right on Bowman Lake Rd (last 3 miles pavement ends - 2WD fine) about 12.5 miles to Bowman Valley.

Should be nice this weekend - cool. Best camping is in the valley along side the road instead of the lake. It is unregulated so you can car camp just about anywhere. Try the Candy Land/Cove area: park in the right side pullout at the "S" turn after the descent from Windy Point (about 12.5/13 miles down Bowman Rd off Hwy 20). Where the water flume exits the slabs there are a couple fun bolted routes both 5.8ish. The left route is long and you'll need a second rope to lower/rap off.

A couple hundred yards left of those routes is Candy Land. The 2 bolted routes on the big boulder are 5.10+ and the crack is 5.8. Just to the right of the big boulder is a black and white streaked wall = Candy Land ( 6 bolted routes/fun climbing): .5, .7, .8, .9, .10, .9. At mile 13.5 just before the bridge is the Larry Land pullout. A couple hundred feet up hill through the trees is the Fun House with 7 bolted routes (easy access to top via left side): .7-.10 (left to right). If you walk up the dry river bed from the bridge toward the dam (5 mins) you'll find Larry Land (good swimming up at the lake). Most of the routes start at 5.11 but are well bolted. The 3 routes on right side of wall are 5.10 but were wet last weekend. There's a bunch of stuff around the valley but those areas are the easiest to describe and should keep you busy for a couple days. We may be out there so give us a holler and we'll tour ya around. Cheers, M
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 12, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
Thanks for the beta, Carville!!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 12, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
Hey Steve, I assume you you're probably out this weekend. I have intentions of getting up there Friday evening and climbing Saturday.

Congratulations on your kid! You will likely have you hands full, along with with your wife. I'll be back and we can climb again. Probably better to hang with her as the little ones tend to wake up every couple of hours for chow and you wife will need your assistance. I understand completely. Trust me.

But Seth may be in the area, so I may hook up with him. And Carville gave us good beta to get us started in the area. If any other locals wanna hang let me know.

This is all tentative pending a call from a buddy who wants to redo Fresno Dome.

Congratulations Steve! Boy or girl?
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 12, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
Wish I could join you guys.....really. You are right that I'll have my hands full with the baby.

I expect a full trip report.

If you get up to the lake for a swim check out the cliff about 50 yards out. There are overhangs there over very deep water....up to ~30 feet tall. Further out about 200 yards to the island is a cliff band on the right side ~50 feet tall. We paddled out on inner tubes a handful of times last Summer....had a blast! Beware the water is cold....inspiration to make it to the top.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 01:22am PT
Candy Land - Bowman Valley.
Candy Land 5.8
Candy Land 5.8
Credit: M Carville
Candy Land area.
Candy Land area.
Credit: M Carville
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 14, 2011 - 01:32am PT
Looks good, Mike. I have a meeting that I have to attend at work on Friday and may not make it. I was hoping to bail work early and come up Friday night, but it may not happen.

I do appreciate you beta though and will be up there this summer!

Seth is camped out at Indian Springs apparently. FWIW.

Thanks, Mike.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 01:54am PT
You bet. Simeon on Predator .11d. The Cove, Bowman Valley.
Simeon on Predator .11d. Bowman Valley.
Simeon on Predator .11d. Bowman Valley.
Credit: Josh Horniak
dourbalistar

Boulder climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 15, 2011 - 06:04am PT
Hey Mike - Thanks for all the beta and photos. My wife and I plan to head up to the area this weekend and will probably check out some of the moderates at Candy Land and maybe Fun House. Besides the long 5.8 route you mentioned upthread, should a rack of a dozen or so draws and a 60m rope get you up and down most routes? Hope we can cross paths this weekend.

Cheers,
-ben.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 11:24am PT
Hey Ben,

12 draws will be fine. The only route that is longer than a 1/2 a 60 meter rope is the left most route at the Cove which is a couple hundreds yards right of Candy Land. That route is the first one above where the water flume exists the slabs (left edge of Cove). Everything else is an easy off with a 60 meter rope. There are very few crack climbs out there so almost everything is bolted with chain anchors.

I should be out there Saturday - look for a tan GMC Yukon with a box on the roof.

Cheers, M
Larry Land, Bowman Lake Valley.
Larry Land, Bowman Lake Valley.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
New Crag at the Emeralds. The Bear's Lair - short & steep. Cheers, M
Ethan and Lisa - third ascent of "Bear Trap" .11b. Bear's Lair, Emeral...
Ethan and Lisa - third ascent of "Bear Trap" .11b. Bear's Lair, Emeralds.
Credit: M Carville
Ethan - third ascent of "Buzz Kill" .11d. Bear's Lair, Emeralds.
Ethan - third ascent of "Buzz Kill" .11d. Bear's Lair, Emeralds.
Credit: M Carville
Josh - first ascent of "Peer Pressure" .12a. Bear's Lair, Emeralds.
Josh - first ascent of "Peer Pressure" .12a. Bear's Lair, Emeralds.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 11:19am PT
Anyone make it out there this weekend? Heard the water was pouring over the top of Bowman Dam. True?
MrAlex

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
Hi Mike,

Spent the weekend there and only saw 3 other parties but never climbing at the same area as we were. We climbed at Candy Land, Fun House and The Cove. Hiked up to Larry Land on Sunday and there was a waterfall over the two 5.10 routes on the right side.

Thanks for all the beta! The weather was great - a bit on the warm side for me but the girlfriend loved it ;-)

Do you know what those routes at the Cove are rated?

cheers,
Alex
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
ROde motos out there and checked out the area, climbed candyland routes. Fun stuff. Someone freshly drilled on the far right. Why are people using no hangers, just chains at the anchors?





euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
I put mussy hooks in at the fun house.

....love them mussy hooks!.....no fuss.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
Is the Funhouse down and to the left of Candyland?
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
Yes, I'd say about 100 yards to the left. It's directly up from where you park just before the bridge. 5 minute walk.

~80 degree slab about 80 feet tall....6 routes.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
Thanks, those routes look great.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
Hi Alex,

The Cove routes on far left (slabs) behind the big boulder are 5.8+/5.8. Stuff on the boulder was put up years ago by someone else (.9-.11). In the main Cove area, the route on the left that goes over the high roof is Predator .11d (see image up thread), the other two are 11a and 11b (both climb through the lower roof close to ground). The right side route through the steep teirs is 12b. Several more lines are in progress. Should be a fun area (12-15 routes) when finished. Hope that helps. Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
7.15.11 - Bowman Lake over flows the dam.
bowman lake over lfow 7.15.11.
bowman lake over lfow 7.15.11.
Credit: Josh Horniak
MrAlex

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jul 18, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
Thanks, that definitely helps. Got on the 2nd route to the right of Predator - very cool line! :-)

Edit:
Wow!!! Just saw your image of the overflowing dam! When we were there in the late morning there was just a small waterfall on the right side of the wall (orange circle). We approached the area by crossing the stream twice (path shown in red) but at the time it was dry. There was one party climbing there when we left. Hope they made it out ok.

Credit: MrAlex
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 11:07pm PT
Bump Report. Shameless I know but the climbing is fun. Still a bit hot - temps hit mid 80s in Sac and Bowman's good. Larry Land good until about 1pm, Cove good all day. B-Word good in the afternoon. Cheers!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Sep 8, 2011 - 10:18am PT
rawdough
rawdough
Credit: Stewart Johnson
you guys dont have to drive down there.Squaw has it.
goes in the shade at 1.00 pm.
of course its a one hour walk as compared to a one hour drive!
edit; if you have your squaw pass you can ride the tram, lunch at high camp and hike down to the rawdoe, twenty minute approach.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Sep 8, 2011 - 10:35am PT
Hi Everyone-

Mike- Looks like some awesome climbs... Nice shots.

Jim- Wow, more great photos...

Stewie- Great shot of the Rado. Some fun routes. I took the tram up a few weeks back. Very Euro...

Cheers, Brian
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 8, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Hello people,
I was up at Bowman couple weeks ago, it's AWESOME!
Free climbing, free camping, free fish! No tool! Feels like the good
Ole days! Does anyone know about a couple of steep walls
Around lake Faucherie? They look SICK! only way to get there is
By boat. I got a 14 ft 10 horse let's go!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Wow - Rado looks good. Howdy Brian - did you ever finish up that crag you were working on with Paul? You should come out to Larry Land. Had Todd up at here about a week ago. Yes, several good cliffs near Faucherie. Cheers, M
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 8, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
speaking of sport potential. Just drove thru the Truckee river canyon and saw lots of choss. Any pointers on sport choss in that area?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
Canyon choss - gotta draw the line somewhere.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 8, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
Your rap hangers suck please fix them.
dourbalistar

climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
My wife and I were up at Bowman back in July and really enjoyed our time there. Off the beaten path, free camping, and enjoyable climbing. We met MrAlex (upthread) and his girlfriend while we were there.

On a side note, we swimming in a few of the pools below Larry Land. We didn't know the dam had overflowed a few days earlier until I came home and saw the photos - yikes!

Thanks, Mike for the beta! Here are some photos:
Candy Land area.  Two routes on the big boulder on the left in front o...
Candy Land area. Two routes on the big boulder on the left in front of the main face.
Credit: dourbalistar
Candy Land area, nearer to the base.
Candy Land area, nearer to the base.
Credit: dourbalistar
Larry Land, taken from the side of the dam.
Larry Land, taken from the side of the dam.
Credit: dourbalistar
Right side of Larry Land.  No water flowing over top, but it had overf...
Right side of Larry Land. No water flowing over top, but it had overflowed a few days before!
Credit: dourbalistar
Fun House area.  If you're facing the cable blocking the road toward L...
Fun House area. If you're facing the cable blocking the road toward Larry Land, head to the right and uphill through the trees. Shady routes in the morning.
Credit: dourbalistar
Fun House area nearer to the base of the routes.
Fun House area nearer to the base of the routes.
Credit: dourbalistar
Swimming hole below Larry Land.  Not recommended!  Dam in the backgrou...
Swimming hole below Larry Land. Not recommended! Dam in the background was overflowing a few days before.
Credit: dourbalistar
View looking north toward Bowman Lake from Windy Cliffs.
View looking north toward Bowman Lake from Windy Cliffs.
Credit: dourbalistar
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
Nice shots glad you enjoyed it. Scott, the Metolius or threaded chain?
gilly

climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
Sep 10, 2011 - 12:58pm PT

Good stuff Mike,like the names
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 10, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Hi Mike,

I like the routes but I hate Metolius rap hangers.


I know that it costs a lot of time and money to put up routes.


Keep them coming.

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Sep 27, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
Wow. I missed this thread before somehow. I guess BS threads do push good climbing content off the first page on the Taco.

I can't wait to get up there and check out the new stuff. I love Bowman but haven't been up there in over 10 years. Too many trips to Yosemite I guess :-)

Thanks for the posts and route development!
kennyt

climber
Sep 27, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
Where is the bears lair?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 02:03am PT
Short steep wall a couple hundred yards right of the fortress above steel monkey wall. Obscured by trees - hard to see until you're there. Just keep following cliff base right of fortress until you bump into it. Seven bolted lines + killer/steep bouldering.

see video: http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000726012971

Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
Also check out the Emeralds Upper Gorge. Better than it ever was. Approach from Spaulding Lake (west side) descend upper gorge via spill way - 1/4 mile past big dam. Rap in or hike down west side of rim trail to center gorge then walk up to upper gorge. Several of the routes are longer than 30 meters. If you rap into the upper gorge with a single 60m then use the Metolius rap anchor station off the narrow ledge. Red tag/pink tag first bolt routes are projects. Cheers, M

Hansi Standtheiner on Five Minute Hero .12-, Emeralds Gorge (upper)
Hansi Standtheiner on Five Minute Hero .12-, Emeralds Gorge (upper)
Credit: M Carville

Better than it ever was. Emeralds - Upper Gorge 2011.
Better than it ever was. Emeralds - Upper Gorge 2011.
Credit: M Carville
kennyt

climber
Oct 8, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
Mike,Can you drive to steel monkey or is the gate always closed? did alot of climbing at the Emeralds in the early 90s but it's been awhile.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
Unfortunately the gate's still locked. The walk is about 15 mins although some people ride bikes (5mins). The lower gorge is still blown out but the upper gorge has 21 new bolted lines - stellar climbing. To get there come in via post above (spaulding lake). Brad Johnson and John Robinson have bolted some fun new lines above steel monkey on the fortress and kudos cliffs - maybe 12 to 15 new lines. The Bear's Lair has 7 bolted lines and great bouldering (see posts above). Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
"Big Brad" johnson and Will "Danger" Robinson warming-up on Sub Zero .11b Emeralds, Upper Gorge.
Brad on Sub Zero .11b Emeralds, Upper Gorge.
Brad on Sub Zero .11b Emeralds, Upper Gorge.
Credit: M Carville
tom Carter

Social climber
Nov 13, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
Hey Mike

I just drove to windy Point on Thursday. It looked a bit scary getting to the route - the road was way icy.

So now my question is what is the typical time-line in the late spring, early summer? (Of course it depends on a number of elements). I'm guessing that that is never plowed and that they (NID, PG&E etc) access the dams via tracked vehicles?

Looks wonderful, I've always wanted to check that spot out - glad I did the recy. I will be back!

Thanks in advance for the routes!
MrAlex

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 1, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Hi everyone. Just wondering if anyone has been to Larryland recently and can share some info on road and weather conditions. Much appreciated :)
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
Yes. It's really good right now. We climbed yesterday 12/3 during the wind storms and it was quite nice. Sun from 10am-5pm and sheltered. Some icy spots on the road in, so you'll need AWD/4WD but no clearance issues. Cheers, M
Mike on Sub Text 12a. Larry Land, Bowman Valley.
Mike on Sub Text 12a. Larry Land, Bowman Valley.
Credit: M Carville
Troy and Josh warming up on Hello Larry .11a
Troy and Josh warming up on Hello Larry .11a
Credit: M Carville
Josh finishing one last lap on Hot Rod .11b
Josh finishing one last lap on Hot Rod .11b
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
Tori warming up on Yuba Blue .10c - Larry Land.
Tori warming up on Yuba Blue .10c - Larry Land.
Credit: M Carville
MrAlex

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 6, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Thanks for the reply (and pics), Mike! Will try to make it there sometime soon.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Dec 6, 2011 - 11:13pm PT
I was out there a month or two back. Fun stuff.

Mike how do you approach the top of the upper gorge? Above you said from the west side of Spaulding but how do you get there? Is there a road starting near Fuller lake? I tried from the Spaulding boat ramp but it says no trespassing that way.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Dec 7, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
bump
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Dec 7, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
Mike, is that Tori Orlowski?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
Mooser - I think Tori's last name is Orlowski - from GV.

The Fet - don't go in from Fuller (too far). Approach upper gorge from Spaulding Lake Rd. Turn off Hwy 20 and park just before first gate about 1/4 mile (not down by boat ramp). Hike (20 mins) or ride a bike (10 mins) along west side of lake past big dam to spill way. Walk down gorge about 150 yards to drop off - rappel off Metolius rap anchors 100'. Gorge is good during summer = May - Oct even if it's 105 in Sac. Too cold now. Early season in a big snow/rain year they open spill way so watch out for high water flow in spring.

Or you can come in from the Emeralds (longer hike) on the trail system above Steel Monkey wall.

Cheers, M
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Dec 8, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
Thanks Mike, I've approached the lower gorge from below the Steel Monkey wall, but it's a pain going over that boulder outwash. From your last post I take it there's another trail system above the Steel Monkey wall?

Is this photo the approximate approach from Spaulding? This is what I thought it would be but there's no trespassing signs on the gate and I didn't want to piss off PG&E and jeopardize access. Do you walk over the big dam?

Credit: the Fet

I wouldn't want to be in that gorge if they open the spillway! Certain death!!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
Your map is spot on although you should probably park at first gate (about 1/4 mile off Hwy 20) and not down further by second gate/road leading to dam. PG&E seems fine with "along the dam access" from Memorial Day through Halloween. Probably not a great idea to park/approach across dam other times which is fine because that's really the best season. It would be a bad deal to be caught in the gorge during a water release. If you traverse along the slabs above Steel Monkey wall toward the gorge it takes about 20 mins. The trail dumps you just above the middle gorge. From there you can follow trails down or up to access gorge. There is a fair bit to climb now in the upper gorge. Lower gorge is still pretty blown out. Bowman should remain good until first big snow. Give us a shout if you're out that way.

Cheers, M
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Dec 10, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
Hey Mike,

If it is, her dad--John Orlowski--used to co-own the Ascent Gym in GV, which my wife semi-managed for a while. Tori's a terrific young woman.

Cheers,

Tom Patterson
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
Yep, that's the same Tori. She's now on the road climbing. Cheers, M
stella

climber
cali
Dec 16, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
any update on conditions? would assume the road is still drivable....thinking about heading to Larryland
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2011 - 02:02am PT
conditions at LL are good. road in is fine. enjoy.
stella

climber
cali
Dec 17, 2011 - 11:18am PT
Thanks Mike, headed in there this morning
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
We were up at Donner. How was it?
stella

climber
cali
Dec 20, 2011 - 11:19am PT
Shirts off.....

John Scott was nice enough to give us the route beta. Excellent rock quality and routes.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 11, 2012 - 02:29am PT
What's the skinny on the road etc?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 10:57am PT
Road into Bowman has some snow drifts - should be clear in a couple weeks. Emeralds is snow free, good temps, many new routes. Cheers, M

kaholatingtong

Trad climber
the green triangle, cali
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
who needs a guidebook when you got all this
edit : suppose topos are kinda nice tho ...
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 21, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
Thanks for the road update for Bowman!!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 12:37am PT
You bet Tom.

BTW - As of today, water is being released from Spaulding Lake making the Upper Gorge unclimbable. Everywhere else in the Emeralds is fine including the new crag below called The Bear's Lair - which is up (next cliff band uphill) and right (400 yards) of Steel Monkey Wall.

Peter Mayfield sending at the Fight Club  .11c/d, Bear's Lair,  Emeral...
Peter Mayfield sending at the Fight Club .11c/d, Bear's Lair, Emeralds, CA.
Credit: M Carville



M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2012 - 12:29am PT
Big Brad Johnson sending in the e gorge - game on.
Brad Johnson on Sub Zero .11b, Emerald's Gorge.
Brad Johnson on Sub Zero .11b, Emerald's Gorge.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
5.6.12

No access yet - still some snow on the road into Bowman. It should be clear in about 2 weeks.
Troy and Josh on Hello Larry .11a   Bowman Lake, CA.
Troy and Josh on Hello Larry .11a Bowman Lake, CA.
Credit: M Carville
The Dude

climber
Truckee, CA
May 17, 2012 - 12:35am PT
Anybody know if the road is clear yet?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
Yes - Bowman Rd. opened today.
dfinnecy

Social climber
'stralia
May 17, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
Hi M Carville, I met you a few times in the late 90's, I worked at the wall at SportsNation in Tigard. Once we went out to some new crag in Eastern Oregon with Don Cossel, I think they were calling it Area 51. Anyways, someday hope I can get back out to Bowman and check these new routes out.

I used to teach climbing to camp kids on the slabs above the road opposite the what i think is the beetlejuice wall.

Has anyone ever been out to Weaver Lake? Its a nice diversion, there is a small dam at the back with a big choss-tastic cliff/cave underneath. No climbing I remember, we are talking house of cards massive overhang made of shattered basalt stuck together with dirt and moss. At the bottom of the cliff you can walk back into the cave, 100 mtrs or so through an old tunnel which ends at a seeping couple railroad ties somewhere under the lake. Kinda scary, fun outing.

http://g.co/maps/e6rab
tom Carter

Social climber
May 19, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Mike

Thanks for the beta today. Great routes.

Thanks for all your efforts and good vibes.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
the green triangle, cali
May 21, 2012 - 01:05am PT
bump for bowman area. climbed a few routes out at candy land and checked out a bunch of the other spots out there. good stuff.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
You bet Tom. Fun to see ya out there. Give me shout if you want the grand tour. Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2012 - 10:57am PT
Kuan and Donny cruising Flying Snakes .11b and Ripple Effect .11b at the Cove - Bowman Lake.
Kuan and Donny - Ripple Effect .11b at the Cove. Bowman Lakes/Emeralds...
Kuan and Donny - Ripple Effect .11b at the Cove. Bowman Lakes/Emeralds, CA.
Credit: M Carville
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Jun 8, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
I think i'm heading out to Larry Land on Sunday. Wtb beta on some cool stuff
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
We'll be out there Sunday and can give you beta. Cheers, M
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Jun 13, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
We had a lot of fun out at Bowman today rockin Candyland. That was my first time climbing there but certaintly not my last. It got a bit warm in mid afternoon and a beautiful pool awaited us across the road.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 13, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
I was there last sat/sun. My wife did some of her first leads ever. It's the best place I've ever been for beginning leaders. Lots of bolted 5.6 to 5.8s, where else do you find that?

Rocknrolla was kinda wet. Had the place to ourselves. Beautiful and fun.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Hansi Standtheiner on the third ascent of Thrillbilly .11d Bowman Lake, CA.
Hansi Standtheiner on the 3rd ascent of Thrillbilly .11d - Larryland, ...
Hansi Standtheiner on the 3rd ascent of Thrillbilly .11d - Larryland, Bowman Lake, CA.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
Mike pulling out the slot on "WTF" .11c at the Bear's Lair which is several hundred years up and right of Steel Monkey Wall. This short (40-50 feet) but steep wall contains 8 new bolted routes/excellent bouldering and is shaded until about 4pm. See back thread for more details. Emeralds, CA.
"WTF"  .11c. Bear's Lair. Emeralds, CA.
"WTF" .11c. Bear's Lair. Emeralds, CA.
Credit: M Carville
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Sep 28, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
New Routes in the Emeralds Page 1

page 1
page 1
Credit: johnr9q
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Sep 28, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
page 2
page 2
Credit: johnr9q
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Sep 28, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
page 3
page 3
Credit: johnr9q
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
More new stuff at the Emerald's Gorge, CA. 26 newly bolted routes from .10a-13b.
Hansi on the crux of Drama Queen .12b. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Hansi on the crux of Drama Queen .12b. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
Mike on Super Alpine Direct .11a. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Mike on Super Alpine Direct .11a. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
Josh on the opening moves of Whirl Pool .12a. Emerald's Gorge, CA. Nee...
Josh on the opening moves of Whirl Pool .12a. Emerald's Gorge, CA. Need a 70 meter rope/17 draws for this climb.
Credit: M Carville
Dylan red pointing Separation Anxiety .11d. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Dylan red pointing Separation Anxiety .11d. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
Mike heading into the lower crux on Repo Man .12d. Emerald's Gorge, CA...
Mike heading into the lower crux on Repo Man .12d. Emerald's Gorge, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 16, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
So fun to see these pics! So much has been developed since I was last there. Great to see pictures of Josh, too. When did he lose the ponytail??
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
Josh enlisted!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 18, 2012 - 08:49am PT
W-w-what??
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
G-belay. Don't be this guy!
g-belay
g-belay
Credit: Josh Horniak
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
Bay area hard men sending!
John Brooks and Tom Addison warming-up on Slip Knot .11a, Emerlads, CA...
John Brooks and Tom Addison warming-up on Slip Knot .11a, Emerlads, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Big Tom Addison caught in the swirl on Whirlpool .12a, Emeralds, CA.
Big Tom Addison caught in the swirl on Whirlpool .12a, Emeralds, CA.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
Bay area or Sac climber? More lines - Emerald's Gorge.
Mike Carville and Josh Horniak giving some on the newer e-gorge stuff ...
Mike Carville and Josh Horniak giving some on the newer e-gorge stuff a whirl. Game of Thrones .12c. Emeralds, CA.
Credit: Tom Addison
Game of Thrones .12c Emeralds, CA.
Game of Thrones .12c Emeralds, CA.
Credit: Tom Addison
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Mike, Are these routes in the same area as Atlantis, Arid oasis and Hundreth Monkey?
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Oct 30, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
thanks for the info, looks fun, going to have to check that out for sure, thanks again.
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Mike: Josh enlisted????
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Nov 3, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Mike, that belay photo was terrifying!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2012 - 11:50am PT
No Tom - he's too old!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 01:16am PT
Yep, but higher up in the Gorge. Lots of new stuff between Emeralds and Bowman. Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
The Emeralds is bone dry and in season. Tons of new routes - game on!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/emeralds-the---upper-gorge-upper-wall/105734207
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
Road to Bowman is open as of 3/30/13. [photo
Hansi Standtheiner sending Thrillbilly .11d. Larry Land, Bowman Lake.
Hansi Standtheiner sending Thrillbilly .11d. Larry Land, Bowman Lake.
Credit: M Carville
id=296425]
Appox 13.5 miles off Hwy 20 down Bowman Lakes road. Park at Canyon Cre...
Appox 13.5 miles off Hwy 20 down Bowman Lakes road. Park at Canyon Creek and hike dirt road right side of outwash for 10 mins toward Bowman Lake/dam to Larry Land.
Credit: M Carville
The Cove. Mostly 5.11 some 12s bolted sport routes and easier stuff &#...
The Cove. Mostly 5.11 some 12s bolted sport routes and easier stuff (left side past big blocks). At bottom of big descent down fire road into Bowman Valley follow cement flume carrying water (on right) about 1/4 mile to The Cove. Cross flume on small brid
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
B Word Wall and Scottland (gully behind) offers the highest co...
B Word Wall and Scottland (gully behind) offers the highest concentration of hard climbing in Bowman Valley. B Word in about 80' high and 100 feet wide - all overhanging (.11+-13a).
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
The Cove, Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
The Cove. Bowman Valley, CA.
The Cove. Bowman Valley, CA.
Credit: M Carville
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:22am PT
bump for good content. heard you mention the conditions perfect right now on the quarry thread mike, and i was just thinking about this area.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
yep - it's an early season out there. road's open, routes dry, temps perfect! ton of new stuff at both bowman and emeralds. cheers, m
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Went out today to the Emeralds. We climbed the new routes on the Kudos Cliff. Super solid rock and good movement. A stick clip was useful. Got the tour while we were there, and plan to go back Sunday to the Fast Food Wall. Step in to the Light .10c was classic and super fun!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
More new stuff. Chris on Self Deception .11d at the Negativity Cave (between The Fortress and Kudos/Fast Food Wall). Emeralds, CA.
Self Deception .11d. at The Negativity Cave. Emeralds, CA.
Self Deception .11d. at The Negativity Cave. Emeralds, CA.
Credit: M Carville
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
May 6, 2013 - 01:50am PT
^^^^^^^
Were you working that line on Sunday Mar. 28th? Kinda lots like the same route we saw someone, from afar, working that day. (On our way back from a day of exploring some rock in the "backcountry" around there.) Does that line go just to the right of a big roof? If so, it looked like a nice line through the overhanging section :) and if it is where I'm thinking, the roof just to the left of that line looked interesting, even if it turned out to be an aid route through the roof. Lots of good rock that looks like that out there.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
Hey john- up there Saturday. A bunch of folks out there Sunday. Line goes through right center of roof. There are now 3 bolted lines there with another 5 on the way. You should come check it out.

Cheers, M
atomicAdam

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
May 23, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
A climb on Candyland
A climb on Candyland
Credit: atomicAdam

Thanks to the folks who set this area up. We had a fun time out there on The Funhouse wall and Candyland walls.

Can't wait to get back out there an explore more of the other locations.

Any good suggestions on 10a-10.c climbs?

Thanks,
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Check out the emeralds - fast food wall and kudos cliff. Cheers, M
atomicAdam

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
May 25, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Thanks M Carville -

Going back up there this Sunday to check out some of the 10a/b/c climbs near Candy Land. Will look to see if I can find their other walls you mention.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
New Bowman crag - Boy Scout Wall. 5.9-5.11 bolted moderates. 5 minute approach from upper pullout for B Word Wall/Scott Land.
boy scout wall - bowman valley, ca.
boy scout wall - bowman valley, ca.
Credit: M Carville
joel richnak topping out on pork chop .9. bowman valley ca.
joel richnak topping out on pork chop .9. bowman valley ca.
Credit: M Carville
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Nov 13, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Gear found at Boy Scout wall today. Locking biner with belay device. Call or email to identify.

Steve Montesanto
Montesanto@juno.com
650 996-5902
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
High Lands crag at Bowman now has routes. UP and right of cove.
Brad Johnson. FA - HIgh Lands .10 (12 bolts/35 meters). Bowman...
Brad Johnson. FA - HIgh Lands .10 (12 bolts/35 meters). Bowman Valley, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Fun moderate .10s.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#332105
Josh Horniak, topping out. FA: High Lands .10, Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Josh Horniak, topping out. FA: High Lands .10, Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
Josh Horniak, FA: HIgh Lands .10.  Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Josh Horniak, FA: HIgh Lands .10. Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Get it while you can. Conditions perfect. If you live Tahoe, Sac or Bay Area now is the time!
Josh Horniak pulling through the crux on The Last Boy Scout .11b. Boy ...
Josh Horniak pulling through the crux on The Last Boy Scout .11b. Boy Scout Wall, Bowman Lake, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Ollie finishing up Scout's Honor .11a. Boy Scout Wall, Bowman Lake, CA...
Ollie finishing up Scout's Honor .11a. Boy Scout Wall, Bowman Lake, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Josh Horniak on Scout's Honor .11a Boy Scout Wall, Bowman Lake, CA.
Josh Horniak on Scout's Honor .11a Boy Scout Wall, Bowman Lake, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Mike Carville finishing up Flying the Coop .10b, Boy Scout Wall, Bowma...
Mike Carville finishing up Flying the Coop .10b, Boy Scout Wall, Bowman Lake, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Dec 1, 2013 - 01:22am PT
Nice to see some slab/ face (ground-up or not). I'm T H - and I approve this thread.
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 3, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
Gotta check out the highlands next year! Nice job Brad!

Kelley
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 02:54am PT
gabe metzger pulling for the camera on porn star 12b. larry land, bowman valley, ca
porn star .12b, larry land - bowman valley, ca
porn star .12b, larry land - bowman valley, ca
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 03:35am PT
gabe metzger on the send. larry land .11c
larry land .11c, bowman ca
larry land .11c, bowman ca
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 03:39am PT
troy croliss on the final arete of angels and demons .12a
angels and demons .12a, bowman ca
angels and demons .12a, bowman ca
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 03:40am PT
hot rod .11a, bowman ca.
hot rod .11a, bowman ca.
Credit: M Carville
gary allan strolling up hot rod .11a
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 03:53am PT
gabe on super natural .11c, larry land.
super natural .11c, bowman ca
super natural .11c, bowman ca
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2014 - 12:26am PT
Troy Croliss going long on Long Shot .10c. The Cove, Bowman, CA.
Troy Croliss on Long Shot .10c. The Cove, Bowman, CA.
Troy Croliss on Long Shot .10c. The Cove, Bowman, CA.
Credit: M Carville
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 17, 2014 - 05:01am PT
Are these current conditions, Mike? May have to finally get down there! How are the roads?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 17, 2014 - 10:57am PT
Bump
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2014 - 11:20am PT
Yes, pics from last Saturday. Road's clear - conditions perfect - game on! Cheers, Mike
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 17, 2014 - 11:22am PT
Nice, man! I'm there! Soon.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Mar 17, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
looks fun, have too check it out, thanks for sharing, mike a.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
Headin' up to the roof on Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, Bowman, CA.
Headin' up to the roof on Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, Bowman, CA.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
sarah high up on boy scout wall. bowman, ca.
Credit: M Carville
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Mar 25, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
Bump for climbing content.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Mar 25, 2014 - 06:01pm PT
We had a great day out at The Emeralds on Saturday! Many returns will be made....

Looking forward to Bowman and Larry Land!
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Apr 30, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
Anyone know if snow on the road to Bowman Lake has melted or plowed?
euro-brief-guy

climber
Auburn, ca
May 1, 2014 - 12:52am PT
It was clear a couple of weeks ago....plus i think that last storm that came through didn't accumulate any snow up there. It's also been warm last few days.

I think you're good. Have fun.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
May 5, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
Steve. Thank you for putting up the routes at The Fun House! Road was fine. A few more bolts on the left most 5.6 would be appreciated if you want it to be for beginners, kids, or short people.

Routes on right side of Candy Land are a little wet at the moment. Only the two on the left are dry.

I hope to get to Boy Scout wall next time.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
Bowman viewed from Windy Point. About 80 bolted lines.
bowman valley, ca.
bowman valley, ca.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
beta shot of the fun house, just above parking area for larry land.
the fun house, bowman lake, ca
the fun house, bowman lake, ca
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
bowman lake, ca. overview map.
Credit: M Carville
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 9, 2014 - 01:41am PT
Hoping to head up there this week to camp for a few days. Depends on if a dog sitting gig that the GF previously agreed to happens on wednesday.
Are there bathrooms around anywhere or is it all primitive?
Is there cell service or should I save this thread to the laptop?
This thread says 2wd is ok but mp says it's a 4wd drive road. We'll be in a big sprinter van which doesn't do too well in slippery situations.
I keep hearing about good swimming. Is that the case this year or is the lake super low?
Any beta on the deep water soloing?
Anyone gonna be up there?
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 9, 2014 - 08:23am PT

Are there bathrooms around anywhere or is it all primitive? Emeralds has two drop toilets before you drop down to the Yuba. Bowman might have them near the lake but they are not near the climbing.

Is there cell service or should I save this thread to the laptop? Great Verizon coverage at Emeralds, I have none at Bowman.

This thread says 2wd is ok but mp says it's a 4wd drive road. We'll be in a big sprinter van which doesn't do too well in slippery situations. Road is a bit bumpy but you will be fine in your Sprinter.

I keep hearing about good swimming. Is that the case this year or is the lake super low? Both Spaulding and Bowman are high last I was up there. Stay out of the gorge below Spaulding. Water could be dumped at any moment. I don't know if the dam at Bowman can overflow right now.
Any beta on the deep water soloing? No
Anyone gonna be up there? No ;-(

Have fun!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 9, 2014 - 10:48am PT
Thanks labrat! I should have mentioned Bowman is our destination.
Looks like the dog sitting gig is a no go so we are a go.
So if anyone has any info on bathrooms (near camping rather than climbing) let me know.
Fire rings or bbq pits?
and could someone tell me


































am i gonna die?
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Jun 9, 2014 - 10:51am PT
Mostly primitive that I recall at Bowman, but just before you get there is Lindsey Lakes off to the right. It's a FS or PGnE campground, with pit toilets and, you know, a lake to swim in. Just a couple miles before Bowman, and bring a fishing pole. Forget how much to camp, maybe $15/night? There are fire rings. I think you'll like the climbing there (bowman).
photo not found
Missing photo ID#361549
photo not found
Missing photo ID#361551
photo not found
Missing photo ID#361552
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 9, 2014 - 11:03am PT
Thanks Johnny
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 9, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
So far I can't see any reason to bring anything other than a sport rack. Is that true?

Also, anyone have any mountain biking info for the area?
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Jun 9, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
Sport rack will do you fine there. Climbed one single pitch at Scottland (I think), only because the sport routes were waay above my grade. Shitty gear on that. Stick to the bolts. There's a ton of em.

Most roads up that way are fair 4x4 roads that a subaru can easily navigate. If you camp at lindsey, or maybe even right below Bowman (free, no toilets) you can bike all over. Make a side trip up to Grouse Ridge lookout for a hell of a view. Or when you crest the hill coming up from the river and pass rucker lake, take a left and follow that around the mountain to where it looks out over the Yuba. Pick a road, any road, and go explore.

I have a Tahoe Nat Forest map in pdf if you want.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 9, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
Bring an umbrella, a kiddy pool, and zinc oxide, you are going to roast. Or just stay in the shade as much as possible, that place gets toasty ;).
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 11, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
We just climbed til 2 then jumped in the lake til 6 then climbed some more
Ashley Rockin' and Rollin' at candyland
Ashley Rockin' and Rollin' at candyland
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 22, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
Is the deep water soloing on the island by the dam?

Just got back for some fun climbing. No fires allowed except in designated campgrounds since June 1. Mosquitoes were brutal from about 7 pm to dark.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 23, 2014 - 12:29am PT
I haven't been but the options are just over nacho's head or just under the pine tree on the left, which is just past the concrete damn
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Jul 1, 2014 - 08:48am PT
[photo
Lower main gorge at the emeralds
Lower main gorge at the emeralds
Credit: kennyt
id=365522]
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Jul 1, 2014 - 08:50am PT
I think this is Atlantis in the main gorge early 90s
I think this is Atlantis in the main gorge early 90s
Credit: kennyt
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Jul 1, 2014 - 08:57am PT
I just drove out there last week for the first time, mostly to explore and see the area.
I did bring my fly rod though no fish were too interested in what I was offering (bowman lake).

Seems like a cool area. Lots of bolted routes with easy access and really no people which is what appeals to me. Unfortunately I had no one with me to climb with so next time I'll need to fill that gap.

I had a 2 wheel with fairly low clearance. The dirt road is fine though just up the hill past Bowman I did not venture as the road just seemed to get more narly. Maybe it was just that one section. All the climbing seemed to be beforet that point anyway.

kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Jul 1, 2014 - 09:18am PT
I spent a lot of time there in the 90s and can't remember seeing anyone. One of my favorite places Thanks Mike.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/109010167
pudding

Mountain climber
ambleside UK
Jul 8, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
Hello every body. I would just like to say thank you it has been helpful and reassuring to read all the comments.

i have bolted some lines in the UK, well done to the folks developing this place. Its beautiful and feels adventurous to go there.

the reason for this message is because i want to take a few children there. I am looking for potential top ropes because the belay quality of my kids is not so good. is fun house a good place to start.

thanks every one. any help much appreciated.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jul 9, 2014 - 10:22am PT
Yes. Fun House is a great place to take kids and beginners. You can get up to the top of routes by going up on the left side and the base of routes is relatively flat and kid friendly. Do be aware of snakes!
pudding

Mountain climber
ambleside UK
Jul 9, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
Thanks very much. Any more info form any one would be lovely
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
Troy Corliss, Super Size Me .11a, Fast Food Wall, Emeralds. CA.
troy corliss and gary allan on super size me .11a, emeralds, ca.
troy corliss and gary allan on super size me .11a, emeralds, ca.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
Mo Emeralds' beta... Temps a skosh hot at Benches but cool in Gorge.
Ian on The Gail Project .13a, Emeralds Gorge, CA.
Ian on The Gail Project .13a, Emeralds Gorge, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
The Power of Negative Thought .11-. Negativity Cave, Emeralds, CA.
The Power of Negative Thought .11-. Negativity Cave, Emeralds, CA.
Credit: Josh Horniak
Mike Carville heading into the crimpy crux on Macho Man .12d. Gorge, E...
Mike Carville heading into the crimpy crux on Macho Man .12d. Gorge, Emeralds. Ca.
Credit: josh horniak
Troy Corliss and Gary Allan finishing up the day on Self Deception .11...
Troy Corliss and Gary Allan finishing up the day on Self Deception .11d. Negativity Cave, Emeralds, CA.
Credit: M Carville
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 31, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
had much fun at bowman lake earlier in the summer. thanks for all your work
http://www.powdork.com/2014/this-summer-i-bowman-lake/
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Aug 3, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
Had an outstanding weekend at Bowman Lake and the Emeralds. Climbed at Candy Land and Larry Land on day 1 and the Negativity Cave and the Fast Food Wall on day 2. The highlights were Reality Check, Porn Star, Rockin Roller, Fries with that Mantle, In and Out Urge and Half Full or Half Empty.

Many thanks to all of the people who have put in such hard work to make this area the fantastic place that it is. BRAVO!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
nice job!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Aug 7, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
I'm just stunned at the level of development out there! Fantastic!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
Tom, ya gotta swing by and climb next time you're back here. Cheers, M
Trimin

Trad climber
CA, SF
Aug 19, 2014 - 10:41am PT
This area looks fantastic and I'm hoping to make my first visit out there this weekend if possible. Great job to all the developers who have clearly dedicated a lot of time and energy to this area. Out of curiosity, did any of the guidebooks previously mentioned ever materialize (Horniak authored?)? I saw mention of it being included in the Local's Guide to Northeast California as well, but when I checked it out on Camp4Press it didn't seem to be. I know some of the Emeralds stuff is in the old Falcon Guide. Is the more recent stuff still more of a choose your own adventure situation or are there some topos/route lists circulating out there somewhere? I saw the few already posted, but what about Bowman area? Thanks all.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Aug 19, 2014 - 11:32am PT
This thread + the old falcon guide + www.mountainproject.com is pretty much the beta that currently exists, I believe.
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Aug 25, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
Trimin: Josh is still working on the guide but other things (like work) keep getting in the way. For Emeralds, Look at the 4 beta guides in the photos at the bottom of this page: http://mountainproject.com/v/the-emeralds/105733929
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