New Tahoe Sport Crags - Larry Land, Bowman, Emeralds.

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M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 11:19am PT
Anyone make it out there this weekend? Heard the water was pouring over the top of Bowman Dam. True?
MrAlex

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
Hi Mike,

Spent the weekend there and only saw 3 other parties but never climbing at the same area as we were. We climbed at Candy Land, Fun House and The Cove. Hiked up to Larry Land on Sunday and there was a waterfall over the two 5.10 routes on the right side.

Thanks for all the beta! The weather was great - a bit on the warm side for me but the girlfriend loved it ;-)

Do you know what those routes at the Cove are rated?

cheers,
Alex
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
ROde motos out there and checked out the area, climbed candyland routes. Fun stuff. Someone freshly drilled on the far right. Why are people using no hangers, just chains at the anchors?





euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
I put mussy hooks in at the fun house.

....love them mussy hooks!.....no fuss.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
Is the Funhouse down and to the left of Candyland?
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
Yes, I'd say about 100 yards to the left. It's directly up from where you park just before the bridge. 5 minute walk.

~80 degree slab about 80 feet tall....6 routes.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
Thanks, those routes look great.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
Hi Alex,

The Cove routes on far left (slabs) behind the big boulder are 5.8+/5.8. Stuff on the boulder was put up years ago by someone else (.9-.11). In the main Cove area, the route on the left that goes over the high roof is Predator .11d (see image up thread), the other two are 11a and 11b (both climb through the lower roof close to ground). The right side route through the steep teirs is 12b. Several more lines are in progress. Should be a fun area (12-15 routes) when finished. Hope that helps. Cheers, M
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
7.15.11 - Bowman Lake over flows the dam.
MrAlex

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jul 18, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
Thanks, that definitely helps. Got on the 2nd route to the right of Predator - very cool line! :-)

Edit:
Wow!!! Just saw your image of the overflowing dam! When we were there in the late morning there was just a small waterfall on the right side of the wall (orange circle). We approached the area by crossing the stream twice (path shown in red) but at the time it was dry. There was one party climbing there when we left. Hope they made it out ok.

M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 11:07pm PT
Bump Report. Shameless I know but the climbing is fun. Still a bit hot - temps hit mid 80s in Sac and Bowman's good. Larry Land good until about 1pm, Cove good all day. B-Word good in the afternoon. Cheers!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Sep 8, 2011 - 10:18am PT
you guys dont have to drive down there.Squaw has it.
goes in the shade at 1.00 pm.
of course its a one hour walk as compared to a one hour drive!
edit; if you have your squaw pass you can ride the tram, lunch at high camp and hike down to the rawdoe, twenty minute approach.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Sep 8, 2011 - 10:35am PT
Hi Everyone-

Mike- Looks like some awesome climbs... Nice shots.

Jim- Wow, more great photos...

Stewie- Great shot of the Rado. Some fun routes. I took the tram up a few weeks back. Very Euro...

Cheers, Brian
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 8, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Hello people,
I was up at Bowman couple weeks ago, it's AWESOME!
Free climbing, free camping, free fish! No tool! Feels like the good
Ole days! Does anyone know about a couple of steep walls
Around lake Faucherie? They look SICK! only way to get there is
By boat. I got a 14 ft 10 horse let's go!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Wow - Rado looks good. Howdy Brian - did you ever finish up that crag you were working on with Paul? You should come out to Larry Land. Had Todd up at here about a week ago. Yes, several good cliffs near Faucherie. Cheers, M
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 8, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
speaking of sport potential. Just drove thru the Truckee river canyon and saw lots of choss. Any pointers on sport choss in that area?
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
Canyon choss - gotta draw the line somewhere.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 8, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
Your rap hangers suck please fix them.
dourbalistar

climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
My wife and I were up at Bowman back in July and really enjoyed our time there. Off the beaten path, free camping, and enjoyable climbing. We met MrAlex (upthread) and his girlfriend while we were there.

On a side note, we swimming in a few of the pools below Larry Land. We didn't know the dam had overflowed a few days earlier until I came home and saw the photos - yikes!

Thanks, Mike for the beta! Here are some photos:
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
Nice shots glad you enjoyed it. Scott, the Metolius or threaded chain?
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