Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
|
wyde slab
|
|
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2011 - 01:11am PT
|
Jaybro, thanks for the link! It's interesting to see how the climb can be done in different ways. I'll have to go back & try it differently for comparison.
I almost started the lower portion left-side with full-on chickenwings & arm-bars like it appears Gary did, but the subtleties of the crack width, slope, and features on the left wall suggested that right-side in might be easier. I was able to stand on relaxed on foot bridging the entire time, and just grabbed crimpers on the face with my hands to ratchet up.
I entered the roof crack similar to Ed's description, but for whatever reason, once I was deep into it, stacking just seemed easier for my spaghetti arms than maintaining an arm-bar & gaston, as when I got gassed I could just hang on my hands to rest. It was easy enough to let go occasionally arm bar & grab features as they came within reach.
The climb was surprisingly clean and interesting. Just like Bongs Away, Center (a much easier 5.10a OW, IMO), this seems to be a stellar route that gets little attention.
The right side was pretty fun too, though I was caught off-guard with how burly it was, and being sweaty slick from the heat didn't help. I tried some silly strategies where I would climb the cracks until they got too wide to jam, threw in a #4 way up there, and then downclimbed to get into a lieback position and climbed the crack as a lieback. No need then to place pro on those liebacks!
|
|
cintune
climber
Midvale School for the Gifted
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
|
|
|
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
|
Zanderland Wide Session November 2011 was really fun
360s and other fun in the Steck-Salathe simulator:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ral5IJUAMU4
Next time I'm there maybe I can talk someone into a 360s spin contest? Would be a great workout!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
|
Hoh man I been missing the fun!
Narrower flairing goodness at BIW today, followed by pity beers....
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
|
Wyde wednesday style bump
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
That looks great. Do you know where it is?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
I wanna know too
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
if you go to the youtube page, they say Tahoe...tag says sugar pine
|
|
Aydam
Sport climber
Los Angeles, California
|
|
Best way to get better at climbing? Go outside and climb!
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
because you're doing it wrong Jay
Just the "UX9cajco3tE" all that other stuff is not needed
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
I found a REALLLLLLY cool looking OW (if there is such a thing) in Tahoe, up Eagle creek, just past the lake. Looks really 'fun' I will try it out when the summer comes around.
1) Last weekend I tried to TR generator...complete failure
2) Finally was able to do squeeze chimney/OW in PG sunnvale without hangs...got better with foot stacks.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
Yes, Tom, I saw the Tahoe and Sugar Pine. I still want to know where it is.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
Hey, Thanks, maybe I'll have to make it to Tahoe one of these years.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
There is sugar pine point on the west shore, just north, I believe, of D.L. Bliss state park which has a lot of bouldering in terrain that looks similar to that video. Not familiar with that problem, though.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!