Sentinel Rock Summit Register- Classic Who's Who 1934-1976

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Messages 261 - 279 of total 279 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
Bill,

In the 3 hr 14 min trip it was Robbins fourth time up, and for Frost his second. IMHO that says a lot less than the time of Roper and Sacherer doing it on sight in a day, considering the state of hardware and lack of route knowledge. First time and on sight makes a big difference.

I agree that it's hard to set a speed record onsight.

However, there are 2 ascents missing from the transcribed register.
Steve Roper might have been on one of them, prior to his speed record.
Although he also had good speed, so he may have been onsight.
Since he knew about the 14 prior ascents, he would be a logical person to ask about the 2 missing ascents.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Feb 28, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Yes, as I said way upthread, Roper has the old original
register. He and I often got on the phone, and he
would read various entries to me... I'm still unclear as to how
this version came into being, without that original version?
Or did Royal copy from that original one? Maybe Steve could clarify. I
admit I'm a little slow probably...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Pat,

Yes, as Steve Grossman described,
Steve Roper got the register pictured here in 1993 from Yvon Chouinard,
after Ray Olsen found it in Yvon's attic.
This version of the register had the data through 1963 transcribed by Royal Robbins from an earlier register.

When I referred to the "missing original page", I meant this earlier register. The one Royal transcribed from.
It appears to have been missing a page with ascents from 8/1960 to 10/1961,
since those were not in Royal's transcription that we see here.

The handwriting in Royal's later register entries matches the handwriting in the transcribed entries.
For example, he dots capital I, and the R is partially cursive.
The 29 SEP 1963 entry appears to be signed by Al Steck and Dick Long, so I wonder if Royal finished the transcription shortly after that ascent, and had them sign it before he placed it on the summit?

It looks like Royal added more transcriptions/entries (in pencil, from Sep 63 and Sep/Oct 64) in Oct 1964 when they did several trips up to fix lines for filming the West Face. Perhaps he discovered a second temporary register, and merged it with the one he had earlier transcribed.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Steve Roper, Frank Sacherer, 15A, 8.5 hours, 9/1961
Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 16A, 3 hours 14 minutes (simulclimbing), 9/1961


These must be the correct dates as I know that Frank did not do any climbing in 1965 later than June when I met him. I hiked up to the base of Half Dome with another girl who worked at Curry as Frank and Chuck were going to try for a speed ascent of HD. They woke up late and then Chuck half heartedly fiddled around on the first pitch, and then they called it quits and he and the other girl took of down the trail while Frank and I did the cable route up Half Dome. That was Frank's last attempt at serious rock climbing in the Valley. We spent every weekend after that up in the meadows.

Later in the fall he and I tried climbing together a few times and in early November we were married. From then on, he was totally immersed in physics except for weekend trips to hang out with friends or hike in the Valley. He didn't rock climb again until the spring of 1970 on the Saleve outside Geneva.
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:05am PT
I believe Reilly, that Ms. Brugger climbed Sentinel with Larry Marquardt, a climber from Boulder that she climbed with quite a bit back then. Did he sign his name Nancy or do you need some new glasses?










Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:10am PT

"Larry" does look a lot like "nancy" here - handwriting can be tricky!
Doesn't look that much like "Nancy", though.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:15am PT
I remember when Steve Wunsch and McHardy did the SS. Steve told me that Richard said he would bring the gear. Steve questioned him about why he thought that 6 or 7 nuts was sufficient for the task. Richard's response....well you see mate, too much kit lowers me standard.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Dave, as we all know we often see what we want to see. But I'm not good at
deciphering cursive. In Russian cursive his 'Larry' looks like 'Ratsu'. :-)

I'm sure Julie had no problems on the SS.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 1, 2013 - 09:11am PT
Great thread. Another history bump

PS Definitely looks like "Larry" to me.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 10:53am PT
I like that Fred's wife free soloed the thing behind Bruce and Dave! With a potted plant in her rucksack no less...
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Mar 1, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
With joy, I discovered the name of my uncle, Dick Brown, included in the list of names for the 19 October 1963 accent of Circular Staircase by the Loma Prieta Rock Climbing Section from Palo Alto.

Here he is about 1962 along a Cathedral Range traverse with my dad.
Echo Peaks - Cathedral Range, early 60's
Echo Peaks - Cathedral Range, early 60's
Credit: J. F. Runner
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
We came
We climbed
We scribbled
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
And we bumped...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
Proudly...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 23, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
just a little melancholy update to the thread pertinent to my post
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1533071&msg=1552926#msg1552926
that Hugh DeWitt died on March 28th of this year.

It was amazing that bringing up this thread to him and see his eyes light up, and when he reported back on his discussion with Sherman Lehman it was clear they had a very good time discussing this small bit of Yosemite climbing history that they had so long ago, and inadvertently, participated in.

The truth is that even the tiny, in-the-moment act of signing the Sentinel Rock climbing register in 1959 sets a mark in time and space that persists. They signed that register on Saturday, May 16th. I've been up that route and I'm sure they had a great day. I'm guessing that when Gary and I did it (in this decade) it was more remote than when Hugh and Sherman did it, as it was one of less than 100 routes available to do back then... of course there were a lot fewer climbers too.

Anyway, not a notable passing in the climbing community, but I'd thought to report it here.

eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 23, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
Wow. . . how did I miss this?



"Kevin Worall and Mellow Brutus Schoen"

VERY NICE. . .

And that one line about Bacher [sic] and Lylod [sic] Price is pretty weird. . . interesting to see people trolling back then! (5/21/76)

HA!

TFPU!

HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 23, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
Historical trivia confusion: Spiral or Circular Staircase?

When Brower and Morgan Harris first climbed the west face in 1940 they didn't give the route a name.
The first time I see it named is 1957 by Mathias and Weightman: "Spiral Staircase".

Then in '63 TMJesse's uncle's ascent it's now "Circular Staircase"
Roper (1971) calls it Circular Staircase
I haven't read through the entire register but when/how did it get renamed?

On July 4 '48 the Stanford Alpine Club took nine "kids" to the top of Sentinel.
"No ropes, no pitons"
Richard Williams - 14
Bill Finney - 15
Bill Kershaw - leader?
Donald Rogers - 14
James Burgard? - 13
Walter McClary - 14 1/2
Jerry Insco, Don Yocke - 15
Doug Williams - 13
Wesley Kinsel - leader?
Walter Isle - 14
Peter Hese? -14
BBA

climber
OF
Apr 23, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
Everyone is worthy of note in the climbing community when they go to the big valley in the sky. The names Lehman and DeWitt tickled my memory...

Mowat was on the first ascent of the Southwest Arete, West Side, of the Middle Brother in Yosemite Valley with Nick Clinch, Dave Harrah and Sherman Lehman. A Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley, Steve Roper, 1964, p. 158

Also, from the Starr King Register:

May 19, 1951 Absolutely perfect day.
John Mowat S.A.C.
B Vogel SAC
Hugh DeWitt, SAC
BBA

climber
OF
Apr 25, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
The date given on the Sentinel register at the start was August 1960 for Jeff and me. I found my old Climber's Guide to the high Sierra (the only Valley guide at the time) with the dates. For what it's worth...

Credit: BBA
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