Sentinel Rock Summit Register- Classic Who's Who 1934-1976

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
Al_Smith,

So, in Roper's account, he has Robbins 'waiting a whole day' before swinging into action.

The register lists the two climber's ascents as being several months apart...

Pratt & Roper - 5/18/66 - Time of 8 hours
Royal Robbins - 9/9/66 - 3 hrs, 35 minutes

No.
You seem to think the speed ascents mentioned in the Camp Four book were in 1966.
They were in 1961.

They are in my transcription/edit, but not in the register scans (they are apparently on the "missing original page").
This is probably the source of confusion.
Registers are often incomplete, as some people don't sign in, or pages go missing/unreadable.

Roper's (1961) partner was Frank Sacherer, not Chuck Pratt.
Robbins' partner was Tom Frost, not solo:

Steve Roper, Frank Sacherer, 15A, 8.5 hours, 9/1961
Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 16A, 3 hours 14 minutes (simulclimbing), 9/1961
BBA

climber
OF
Feb 28, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
In the 3 hr 14 min trip it was Robbins fourth time up, and for Frost his second. IMHO that says a lot less than the time of Roper and Sacherer doing it on sight in a day, considering the state of hardware and lack of route knowledge. First time and on sight makes a big difference.
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Clint - Thanks for clearing that up for me. I had assumed that I must have somehow been mistaken.

The two times - 8 hrs and 3:35 - being listed by those two climbers within months of each other was close enough to the account in Camp 4 that I had mistakenly assumed those were the ascents in question.

I suppose that if nothing else, its interesting that both men repeated their two times 5 years later (but with different partners or solo) and still decided to record their now (in Roper's case w/ a partner anyway) obsolete times in the summit register.

(Note: I don't mean 'obsolete' in a negative sense, as I obviously couldn't even get up the N Face of Sentinel if there were a million dollars and Penelope Cruz waiting for me on the summit but that's a different tangent altogether...)

Cheers and thanks, Al
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Also, Steve Grossman - Thanks for scanning this and posting it up. What an absolute treasure this is to behold.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 28, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
As i recall the summit register was papyrus and took blood much better than ink.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Started reading through the whole thing; I'm only up to '75. Amazing how
many old homies' names are in there. It seems like Julie Brugger and Nancy
Marcquardt were the first 'girls'? Hard to believe Tex Bossier didn't do it
until '75 but he did it in good company - Tom Frost.

It was also odd that right after John Marts and Jim Langdon did it in '70
the next ascent was by an Egon and Joanna Marts with Robbins.

HaHaHa - Dave Anderson did the W Face with Karl Kayala and said of his good
buddy Bruce Carson "How the f*#k ?!? did Carson nut the 10th pitch?"
(referring, of course, to Bruce's hammerless solo the year before)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
Bill,

In the 3 hr 14 min trip it was Robbins fourth time up, and for Frost his second. IMHO that says a lot less than the time of Roper and Sacherer doing it on sight in a day, considering the state of hardware and lack of route knowledge. First time and on sight makes a big difference.

I agree that it's hard to set a speed record onsight.

However, there are 2 ascents missing from the transcribed register.
Steve Roper might have been on one of them, prior to his speed record.
Although he also had good speed, so he may have been onsight.
Since he knew about the 14 prior ascents, he would be a logical person to ask about the 2 missing ascents.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Feb 28, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Yes, as I said way upthread, Roper has the old original
register. He and I often got on the phone, and he
would read various entries to me... I'm still unclear as to how
this version came into being, without that original version?
Or did Royal copy from that original one? Maybe Steve could clarify. I
admit I'm a little slow probably...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 28, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Pat,

Yes, as Steve Grossman described,
Steve Roper got the register pictured here in 1993 from Yvon Chouinard,
after Ray Olsen found it in Yvon's attic.
This version of the register had the data through 1963 transcribed by Royal Robbins from an earlier register.

When I referred to the "missing original page", I meant this earlier register. The one Royal transcribed from.
It appears to have been missing a page with ascents from 8/1960 to 10/1961,
since those were not in Royal's transcription that we see here.

The handwriting in Royal's later register entries matches the handwriting in the transcribed entries.
For example, he dots capital I, and the R is partially cursive.
The 29 SEP 1963 entry appears to be signed by Al Steck and Dick Long, so I wonder if Royal finished the transcription shortly after that ascent, and had them sign it before he placed it on the summit?

It looks like Royal added more transcriptions/entries (in pencil, from Sep 63 and Sep/Oct 64) in Oct 1964 when they did several trips up to fix lines for filming the West Face. Perhaps he discovered a second temporary register, and merged it with the one he had earlier transcribed.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Steve Roper, Frank Sacherer, 15A, 8.5 hours, 9/1961
Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 16A, 3 hours 14 minutes (simulclimbing), 9/1961


These must be the correct dates as I know that Frank did not do any climbing in 1965 later than June when I met him. I hiked up to the base of Half Dome with another girl who worked at Curry as Frank and Chuck were going to try for a speed ascent of HD. They woke up late and then Chuck half heartedly fiddled around on the first pitch, and then they called it quits and he and the other girl took of down the trail while Frank and I did the cable route up Half Dome. That was Frank's last attempt at serious rock climbing in the Valley. We spent every weekend after that up in the meadows.

Later in the fall he and I tried climbing together a few times and in early November we were married. From then on, he was totally immersed in physics except for weekend trips to hang out with friends or hike in the Valley. He didn't rock climb again until the spring of 1970 on the Saleve outside Geneva.
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:05am PT
I believe Reilly, that Ms. Brugger climbed Sentinel with Larry Marquardt, a climber from Boulder that she climbed with quite a bit back then. Did he sign his name Nancy or do you need some new glasses?










Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:10am PT

"Larry" does look a lot like "nancy" here - handwriting can be tricky!
Doesn't look that much like "Nancy", though.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:15am PT
I remember when Steve Wunsch and McHardy did the SS. Steve told me that Richard said he would bring the gear. Steve questioned him about why he thought that 6 or 7 nuts was sufficient for the task. Richard's response....well you see mate, too much kit lowers me standard.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Dave, as we all know we often see what we want to see. But I'm not good at
deciphering cursive. In Russian cursive his 'Larry' looks like 'Ratsu'. :-)

I'm sure Julie had no problems on the SS.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 1, 2013 - 09:11am PT
Great thread. Another history bump

PS Definitely looks like "Larry" to me.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 10:53am PT
I like that Fred's wife free soloed the thing behind Bruce and Dave! With a potted plant in her rucksack no less...
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Mar 1, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
With joy, I discovered the name of my uncle, Dick Brown, included in the list of names for the 19 October 1963 accent of Circular Staircase by the Loma Prieta Rock Climbing Section from Palo Alto.

Here he is about 1962 along a Cathedral Range traverse with my dad.
Echo Peaks - Cathedral Range, early 60's
Echo Peaks - Cathedral Range, early 60's
Credit: J. F. Runner
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
We came
We climbed
We scribbled
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
And we bumped...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
Proudly...
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