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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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Bill- Small point taken and I certainly know better...
What do you consider to be Grandpa Kat's best route? The Kat Walk would have to be up there for a scramble.
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BBA
climber
OF
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Jul 11, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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Thread drift alert.
Steve: I nominate the Gunsight. When I was working on a biography of my grandfather, I tried to contact people in the old Starr King register and got this in return:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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Thanks for posting that letter Bill!
Cool that some of your grandad's contemporaries are still around to provide historical background and accounts. Amazing...
The Gunsight is classic for an outing in that era.
What thread drift...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 03:12am PT
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so Hugh de Witt came into my office on Monday... he had been in contact with Sherman Lehman, apparently they spent a few hours recalling the past and concluded that they weren't on Sentinel Rock on that date... and though they knew Bob Kincheloe (who has since died) they have no idea who Will Rorden is... they concluded that Royal must have miss transcribed the register...
now there's an interesting puzzle...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 14, 2011 - 09:19am PT
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Shhhhhhh.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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I would really like to see the original register and that would be necessary to solve the puzzle. Interesting thing to transpose...
Clearly some chronology issues on this pair of pages!
Unfortunately, to ask Royal would be to torture him with yet another fugitive detail. LOL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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I don't think Royal would remember that sort of detail, he might remember transcribing the register... if anything, and assume, as we all would, that we did it correctly...
and as Hugh and Sherman are probably as distantly removed in time from that register as Royal is, they too may not have precise details of their climbing exploits... but the fourth name is a pretty strong indication that something is amiss.
Mysteries are wonderful things, for sure, and "primary source" information is not always as definitive as we'd like it to be...
I know that I've put incorrect information in registers I've written in, incorrect name spellings for partners, incorrect dates (usually get the month right, but the day and year can be problematic), and incorrect route descriptions...
...I do manage to sign my name correctly, at least I don't recall not doing it correctly, and I do get the number or people in the party correct even with mis-spelled names.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
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Couldn't find the register when we topped out in July 75'
It was the end of our 2nd day on the Steck/Salathe, we were out of water and it was dark. Ended up spending a cold night on top in down jackets with cold legs. So happy to find water on the way down, felt like we both slurped down a gallon.
James Barnett F10
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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That's quite alright fella, a "girl" also freed the Nose. Kara is off to a stellar start thanks to her father Jim!
Bonnie Kamps wrote me this morning with a link to a website for summit registers in the Tetons. The link is:
http://www.tetonclimbinghistory.com/
She was informed about the site by Dick Williams who saw his name in the Sentinel register. Bonnie was trying to recall a few Teton dates and found it more than helpful.
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 09:54am PT
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Tom Gerughty (Chouinard-Herbert & Steck Salathe)
Henry Barber (free solo of SS)
Larry Marshak (forgot who his partner was, but they bivy'd on the C-H unroped because of the nice lip at the outside edge)
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F C
Trad climber
south lake tahoe,ca
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Jul 30, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Thank you for sharing..amazing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Classic thread bump!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 10, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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I love summit registers! They are indeed a time capsule.
I had no idea that there was a summit register at the top of Sentinel, but apparently Stannard signed us in two of the three times we were up there (Salathe-Steck twice, one of my all-time favorite climbs ever) and the West Face of Sentinel once. I couldn't find our second ascent of the SS.
For those of you who wandered East from California, there is an analogous gold mine in the Teton Summit register archive at http://www.tetonclimbinghistory.com/ Well, it has been a goldmine for me, partially because I did so many climbs in the Tetons, but primarily because that is where it all started for me. The following page from the Grand summit register from 1957,
contains, in my 14 year-old hand, my signature at the summit of my first climbing experience, a moment that started me down a 54 year path that hasn't quite come to an end yet and has shaped almost every aspect of my life. I can't find the words to describe the feelings brought up by looking back to the very beginning of this nearly lifelong journey.
Who knew, when we deigned to take a moment to scratch our names in these registers, the richness of the experiences to come, viewing these traces of our first steps from so long ago?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Bump for the best of 2011...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Sentinel bump...
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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priceless...
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John Marts
Mountain climber
Edmonds, WA
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Oct 25, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Jim Langdon and Marts are in the Register for the SS ascent free in Sept '70. It was "one of those" classic approaches when one of us discovered that a hammer had been left in Camp 4 after the first chimney was led. Is that why you left us out of the list? <g>
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 06:08am PT
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Great thread.
Here's my version of the Steck-Salathe' ascents, up until the free variation ascent by Erickson and Wunsch in 1970.
Using Steve Roper's statement about 14 ascents by Sep 1961, the unlisted Robbins-Fitschen 10 hour ascent in 6/1960, and the speed climbs of Sep 1961, I tried to fill in those ascents as best I could.
I'm still missing 2 in the first 14 known to Roper, though.
It might appear that a page with ascents 12-15 (between 8/60 and 10/61) is missing. But this appears to be a transcription error by Royal, or perhaps the original page was missing. He appears to have edited or added some dates (given the different dates for the 3rd ascent listed by Steve in the initial post). The 2 colors of pen he used suggests he was trying to edit things. Looking at the writing which shows through from the opposite side, all the scanned pages in that date range link together.
Originally called the North Wall, but as other North face routes appeared, several names were used.
The 1964 Roper guidebook did not name the climbs by the FA party; he used "North face - left side", "North face - direct", "North face - center", and "North face - west side (Regular route)".
A few register entries (one by Chuck Pratt) called it the Steck-Salathe' in 1967-68.
Then many register entries called it the Salathe'-Steck.
The 1971 Roper guidebook called it the Steck-Salathe', which became common use.
John Salathé, Allen Steck, FA, 5 days, 7/1950
Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Don Wilson, 2A, 2 days, 7/6/1953
Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, 3A, 1.4 days, 8/12/1956
Mark Powell, Chuck Wilts, 4A, 1.5 days, 6/23/1957
Dave Rearick, Bob Kamps, 5A, 2 days, 6/22/1958
Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 6A, 2 days, 6/1959
Chuck Pratt, Charlie Raymond, 7A, 2 days, 8/1959
Royal Robbins, Pete Rogowski, Lin Ephraim, 8A, 2 days, 9/7/1959
Joe Fitschen, Tom Frost, 9A, 2 days, 9/7/1959
Dick Long, Gary Hemming, 10A, 5/1960
Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, 11?A, 10 hours, 6/1960
Bill Amborn, Jeff Foott, 12?A, 2 days, 8/1960
?, 13A
?, 14A, "The wall had been done fourteen times by September 1961, but without a bivouac only once..." Camp Four, p.133
Steve Roper, Frank Sacherer, 15A, 8.5 hours, 9/1961
Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 16A, 3 hours 14 minutes (simulclimbing), 9/1961
Royal Robbins, solo, 17A, belayed on 3 pitches, 9/1961
Chuck Pratt, Chuck Ostin, 18A, 11 hours, 10/3/1961
Layton Kor, Jack Turner, 19A, 12 hours, 4/1962
Layton Kor, Mort Hempel, 20A, 7 or 8 hours, 5/1962
Herb Swedlund, Bill Briggs, Warren Harding, 21A, 9/1962
Layton Kor, Galen Rowell, 22A, 5 or 6 hours, 9/22/1963
Al Steck, Dick Long, 23A, 2 days, 9/29/1963
Chuck Pratt, John Evans, 24A, 6/5/1964
Gordon Webster, Charlie Raymond, 25A, 13 hours, 6/12/1964
Chuck Pratt, Layton Kor, 26A, 9/1964
Chris Fredericks, Pat Ament, 27A, 2 days, 10/1964
Richard C. Williams, John Hudson, 28A, 5/15/1965
Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 29A, 20 hours, 6/14/1965
Chuck Pratt, Frank Sacherer, 30A, 9/13/1965
Chuck Pratt, Steve Roper, 31A, 8 hours, 5/18/1966
Chris Fredericks, Jim Bridwell, 32A, 10 hours, 5/20/1966
Tom Gerughty, Eric Beck, 33?A, 8.5 hours, 8/26/1966
Royal Robbins, solo, 34?A, 3 hours 35 minutes, 9/9/1966
Chuck Pratt, Chris Jones, 35A, 6/13/1967
Tom Higgins, Loyd Price, 36A, 6/18/1967
Roman Laba, Tom Kimbrough, 37A, 9/1967
Mike Yates, John Gosling, 38A, 10/8/1967
Pat Ament, Chuck Pratt, 39A, 5/2/1968
Loyd Price, Martin Epp, 40A, 7/2/1968
Edwin Ward-Drummond, Royal Robbins, 41A, 9/3/1968
Barry Bates, Philip Gleason, 42A, 5/17/1969
Dennis Hennek, Chuck Pratt, 43A, 6/1969
Bob Summers, Bugs McKeith, 44A, 8/ or 9/1969
Jim Bridwell, Dick Erb, 45A, 8/ or 9/1969
Doug Scott, Tony Willmott, Royal Robbins, 46A, 4/8/1970
WC Roberts, Dave Hampton, 47A, 5/5/1970
Mead Hargis, Mark Weigelt, 48A, 8.5 hours, 5/17/1970
Jim Erickson, Steve Wunsch, 49A, all free, 5/1970
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