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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Feb 17, 2006 - 07:33pm PT
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Bacar didn't you TR SOHigh
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NinjaChimp
climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 17, 2006 - 09:12pm PT
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Bouldering is the gateway drug of climbing. Sooner or later the crags won't be so empty and we'll all wish for the days of yore.
I love bouldering as much as anyone, but I also love throwing a rope on and experiencing the different challenges to be had in that arena.
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fletch
Social climber
South Lake Tahoe, Ca.
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Feb 17, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
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J.B.,
The reason why bouldering has increased in popularity so much is simple. V-grades turned 5.11 climbers into 5.12 climbers and so on and so forth. V5 = B1. V-grades are more concise than yds. I don't believe in pushing ethics but I respect royal robbins belief that bouldering and sport climbing are only training for the real thing. Boulder problems and top ropes used to be sandbagged on purpose. Now it is more common to see boulder problems overrated because it helps sell guidebooks. Moving through the grades and climbing harder was one of the factors that made me addicted to climbing. Thanks Vermin..
Fletch F. Fletch
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2006 - 11:05pm PT
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clustiere- yeah I did the first top rope ascent, then bouldered it later. I think Tobin Sorenson did the first on-sight (ie ground-up). Not an on-sight flash. I believe he fell once at the lip move (no pads back then) and got it next try! Ballsy-est climber I've ever met to this day!!! r.i.p. tobin....
fletch - yeah I agree with you - the V-grade decimal "equivalents" are blown way out of proportion. "Midnight Lightning" is YDS 5.12c, for example. Always was, always will be. Fountainbleau guys have done it and called it 7b+ (=5.12c). they don't have no friggin' separate system for bouldering and they've been bouldering for a quite a while as well.
Uh-oh, I opened my big mouth up again! cheers, jb
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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He said he went to owen's river gorge, which i thought was a sport climbing crag, but bachar i thought hates sport climbing? Anyone care to comment ^^(troll or not) I seen him a couple times in there. One was a photo session, and he was hanging/ chalking at the top of something while the photog snapped (I remember it being in a mag). The actual topout was a sketch slab (off route?) section that looked even worse. The other time, he was soloing something trailing a rope to set-up a TR(?) for whoever he was with. Of course, he had his own ground up routes there too. like Pickpocket etc.
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