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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 14, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
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Yeah, Mr. Bachar, seems to be the general trend here in the dirty South (TAG at least). At least it's what I see from underneath my idiot crown and Urban Climber tee.
pulling off huge moves, and not having to focus or endure very long ...And whattya know? They're a bunch of strong young dudes. Go figger.
Heh, good comment. I had to chuckle yesterday when one of the young 'uns flew past 4 feet of rattly fingers to catch the top rail on a 'classic' problem. Inspiring and way cleaner than my 'fiddly stacks' beta. He was amused that someone "actually jammed it"...
We get a busload of kids from a private school up at LRC a couple times a week. One of the new school 'proud' problems is called "Don't Tell My Dad"...you guys can probably figure out the story...
(I'm just jealous that my public high school didn't have such a program...)
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Feb 14, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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Landgo -
Holy crap man! Why were you still there? "Comp" means it's time to hop in the vehicle for a quick roadtrip to anyplace else.
--->bob
The comp was the annual benefit for Governors Stable, an insanely great little spot in SE PA (very close to 3 mile island, hehehe). It's not even really a comp other than the fact that if you do bother to turn in a score card and you happen to come up near the top of one of the fairly arbitrary divisions, you get more free swag than normal, though it does draw the best of the best for a real throw-down as well. Watching the guy who had just put in the day that won him Best Overall throw down 40 pullups in the pullup raffle (1 ticket for each one you can do) was one of the sickest moments of physical fitness I have ever witnessed. Jackass parents and little punks that want to be chris sharma when they grow up notwithstanding, it's a damn good time.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 14, 2006 - 03:24pm PT
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Ahhh climbing. Always something to bitch about. If it ain't the sport climbers, then it's the boulderers. If it ain't the boulderers, then its them damn gymbies.
You guys should have figured out by now that everybody sucks.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 14, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
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You all suck!
only I do not, because I RULE. Stay off my rocks!!!
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Feb 14, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
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It's all good. There's tons of undiscovered tiny stones out there. It keeps everybody spread out! The happys are probably the scariest sh#t out there. All that stuff in the Bishop area is top notch & really hard. The best thing about bouldering is you get a good leaders head. I have noticed around here the extra trash, beds, & video cameras.rg
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capndick4
Boulder climber
reachingfortherandomorwhateverwillbewilderme
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Feb 14, 2006 - 05:26pm PT
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how did it turn into such a huge retail holiday?
Two words: Hallmark conspiracy
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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I'll probably get shamed for this, but it really is a better workout and technique training to go bouldering than cragging. Think about it, when you go sporting, at least half your time is spent belaying, more if you're a fast climber or your in a party of three...plus the down time of racking, reracking, coiling the strings, etc...as opposed to bouldering where if you want it to be such an event, it can be hours and hours of continual motion and technique training.
Now I know that most BeanieBabies (tm that sh#t if knew how to make that symbol)only care about how far they can throw between holds and the steepest, most miserable holds they can hold onto, but you can really dial in your technique with a steady diet of bouldering, especially on granite (JB, how about a steady diet of TM knob highballs to get the technique and head dialed in for the Bachar-Yerian?).
Probably my ADD kicking in, where's my rohypnal......oh sh#t, wrong pill....must slee....zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
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I'm with you, Cap'n.
My plans for V-Day include avoiding cards and restaurants and flowers at all costs.
I might hang out with some chocolate and some champagne, though - any excuse, even that of Valentine's, is a good one!
RE: bouldering, though: it holds it's merits.
It can be done safely alone.
It is easy access (except at Hueco.)
You can really challenge yourself with individual moves, and create added strength and flexibility and climbing creativity.
But it's still not as cool as getting up in the air.
A
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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:25pm PT
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Isn't bachar a troll on this site anyway?? He said he went to owen's river gorge, which i thought was a sport climbing crag, but bachar i thought hates sport climbing? Anyone care to comment
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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:30pm PT
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I've seen JB climb some in ORG. no cord. He usually downclimbed a nearby 5.11 to "descend"...
Nothing like looking across the trench, seeing Bachar all"like a bird or a lizard, free as can be."
Still on the horn, Mr. Bachar?
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 07:39pm PT
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So he's a boulderer then....
Like Croft boulders Astroman.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2006 - 09:10pm PT
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Don't get me wrong, I love bouldering - from 10 feet to a 1,000 (or more). Just wanted to see if the popularity is going to last. Bouldering was super popular back in the seventies and then "carabiner" climbing came in to play and the boulders were deserted for like ten or fifteen years. You couldn't have paid someone to go bouldering with you. I dig the popularity myself. Hate those pad things though. Takes all the fun out of falling. It's like "sport bouldering" or something. Russ is right. Go do "The Function" or "So High" without a pad - now that's bouldering...or the "Central Scrutinizer"!
Whatever happened to the Scrutinizer anyway?
cheers, jb
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Feb 14, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
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So High WITH a pad is pretty burl, at least for a weakmo like me.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:13am PT
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wonder if I'd enjoy being out on the rocks (cliffs/crags/boulders/mountains) with a lot of the people out there now
Not to worry, Patrick. You only have to walk a ridiculously small distance to leave the crowd behind.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:24am PT
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Somewhat ironically, bouldering was one of the best things I've done to shape up my lead head. Therre comes a point where it's better to keep climbing hard moves than to bail, and training myself to forge on during this time was important.
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Hootervillian
climber
Zak's Cabin
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Feb 17, 2006 - 10:17am PT
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the best part about bouldering is since the moves start out about redpoint level for most of the 'real' climbers, you tend to get a more vibrant crowd: more teeth, more girls, less looping 'back in the day', 'those damn kids', 'those damn bolts' and divorce stories.
i'll take 'send brah' to 'i remember when' anyday; keeps you young.
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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 17, 2006 - 10:21am PT
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hey, still plenty of "those damn kids" for this weak sauz gramps...
it's like crux move, crux move, crux move
My problem now is that I'm pretty good for about 14 feet 3 inches, then I just "can't ever recover"...sound familiar?
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Hootervillian
climber
Zak's Cabin
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Feb 17, 2006 - 11:34am PT
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sound familiar? i reckon so.
jeez, can't a guy fling a little poo in the morning? i've been on my cheater, locked-heel alpine rig all week so i'm already dirty.
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426
Sport climber
Campus Punks Slab, Rocktown
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Feb 17, 2006 - 04:37pm PT
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..is that dirtier than the bubba brush, chalk-pot and 3 pads?
Or is that apples and oranges™
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Feb 17, 2006 - 05:19pm PT
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John,
Good question about the Scrutinizer. I used to hang wih him quite a bit. He had been "dissapeared" from the Josh scene for a long time, and then Chelsea and I ran into him out there maybe 3 years ago. The old recumbent bike and the car covered in silver duct tape were gone. Just John. He seemed fine. Has some rental income in San Diego going on or something like that.
Remember our chat about edging shoes at Crossroads the other week? I'll email you with my questions.
Cheers-Kris
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